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Little Spirit House
The tiny village of Kanganaman in the Middle Sepik region of Papua New Guinea has not one, but two spirit houses. This one, the “Little Spirit House” is accessible to women – unlike most of the spirit houses in the region. A typical Sepik mask, complete with what looks like a crocodile spine, sits in the woven gables, keeping watch.
According to a myth in the Kaningara area of the Sepik region of Papua New Guinea (PNG), men used to give birth to children while the women controlled the spirit houses. The women had a set of magic flutes with which they communicated with the spirits, and this is how men were created. One night when the women were sleeping, the men snuck in and stole the flutes, reclaiming their ability to ‘make men’. To this day, women are forbidden from hearing the sounds of the magical flutes. (Fridrikkson: Secrets of the Sepik)
Every clan along the Sepik River has an ancestral haus tambaran, or spirit house, where the men gather and the spirits reside in sacred carvings and other tambu (sacred or forbidden) objects. These elegant, lofty buildings are off-limits to women and the uninitiated.
The Sepik River has been called “the soul” of Papua New Guinea; it is certainly the best-known geographic feature of the country, and is home to a huge variety of plant and animal life – much of it endemic – a profusion of distinct and idiosyncratic cultures, and more than 250 discrete languages.
These unique tribal cultures in the Sepik region are a long way from my conventional understanding of the world. But then, the middle Sepik – where I was headed – is itself, a long way from anywhere.
Like anyone else who wants to access the region, I (and a number of other photo-enthusiasts under the tutelage of photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours) spent a long time travelling to the area. Just getting to Papua New Guinea itself can be a challenge! Then, from Port Moresby, we boarded a plane for the one-hour twenty flight to Wewak, where we spent the night. (We were lucky to get a direct flight; many of the available weekly flights go via Mt. Hagen, and take three hours.) The next day, we rode a bumpy bus for five hours (with stops; see: Maprik Market Portraits) to Pagwi before getting into motorised dugout boats for a leisurely two-hour trip down the mighty Sepik. It was mesmerising watching the swaying grasses, the abundant birdlife, the occasional crocodile, and the small settlements of stilted, woven houses, as we chugged along.
Our destination was Kanganaman Village in the Middle Sepik. Known for having the oldest haus tambaran in the region, what the village doesn’t have is electricity or running water! We ate tinned-spam spaghetti for dinner, slept on mats on bamboo flooring, were protected by insect repellent and mosquito nets, washed with water from a large rain barrel, and relieved ourselves in an outhouse that was home to more mosquitos than seems possible. I was very pleased I’d been taking my anti-malarial prophylactics and had received a vaccine against Japanese encephalitis.
But, never mind the bugs; it is a fascinating place. Do come along!
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Organising the Boats
The “boat launch” at Pagwi is an informal affair! Still, we had been warned: most of us had hats, sunscreen, long sleeves, and shoes we didn’t mind getting wet. We were carrying only the minimal belongings: we would be reunited with our main luggage when we returned to our delightful guesthouse in Wewak in a few days.
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People on the Shore
The locals watch with interest as we load ourselves carefully into the dugouts.
Boatman
Our boatman perches on the back of the dugout to operate the outboard motor. His mouth shows the discolouration and damage from years of chewing betal (areca) nut.
Boatman
He keeps a sharp eye out for obstacles as we motor slowly up the river.
Huts on the River
Most of the houses along the river are built of woven grasses, and raised up on stilts.
Egret
I found it soporific in the afternoon sun, listening to the drone of the motor and the splash of the water, and watching the birds take flight.
Boys on the Shore
When we reached Kanganaman Village, children were on on the shore to greet us.
Children in the Village
As we walked through the village, other children come out to have a look at the strangers …
People in the Window
… or check us out from their windows.
Men in a Window
Tourists (this one is from France) sometimes homestay in the village; there is to be a festival the next day, so there are more tourists than usual in the area.
Hanging around the Village
There is no sense of urgency in the village.
Little Spirit House
After dropping our bags in our lodgings, we visited the ‘Little Spirit House’ – the domain of the women and others who are not initiated. The building is is beautifully woven …
Cassowary Totem
… and very dark. The model cassowary inside is almost impossible to make out in the obscurity.
Painted Carvings
The people of the Sepik River are well known for their carved masks and other artworks, which have been much sought after by collectors.
Sepik Carver
One of the carvers posed for me in the dark spirit house.
Sepik Carvers
Uncle and nephew: carving traditions are passed down through tribal families. These men are of the crocodile clan (more about that another time); you can just see the scarification circles on their chests.
The Haus Tambaran – the Men’s House
The main spirit house is larger – but less finely decorated on the outside – than the ‘Little Spirit House’ just a few minutes away. This huge building with its carved posts and woven ceiling has been identified as being of national cultural importance, and so has been renovated with help from the National Museum.
Protector of the Haus Tambaran
Even though they house secret men’s business, spirit houses are considered female symbols and are often decorated with female forms.
Painted Mask
The men’s house is light and airy – making it much easier to admire the carvings inside. Traditionally, carving was an attempt to make the spirits visible: spirits can inhabit the carvings and other art within spirit houses.
Sepic Mask
Today, however, many of the carvings in the spirit houses are available for sale. Although Papuans who are not initiated in the local clan cannot enter the spirit houses, we foreign tourists are welcome – for a small price.
Boy in a Tree
The day was growing late, and we were offered a trip on the water to watch the sunset. As we headed to our dugouts, some of the local children climbed high into the trees to watch us.
Kids in the Water
Other village children followed us upstream, and took the opportunity to go for a swim.
Kids in the Water
They frolicked in the evening waters …
Sunset on the Sepik River
… as the sun went down over a full and rewarding day.
Once the sun sets, it is very dark in the tropics. The battery generator in our bamboo hut operated for a little while, but we all tucked ourselves into our mosquito nets early: we were going to be part of a sing sing – a gathering of a tribes and villages for song and dance – the next day.
Not even the buzzing of insects could keep me awake!
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 13August2017
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Oh Ursula, what a positively delightful trip down memory lane. But here in Utah, we have AC, so it was nice to relive the trip without the heat. . . . Hee Hee
You have such a way with words; they’re so beautiful and poetic. Thank you for taking me back there in such a special way. Do hope all is copacetic with you and Gabe and the whole family. We send our best to you all from us here in the Utah desert.
So nice to hear from you, Jan.
Yes, I forgot to mention the heat… like a suffocating wet blanket, wasn’t it? I hope you are having fun while Lew rides the impossible desert terrain!
Love to you both x
[…] and White View and Crocodile Men). But, Kanganaman has not one, but two spirit houses (see: Welcome to the Spirit House). The smaller one is open to everyone in the village, and it was there that the women were gathered […]
[…] two days of rough plane- bus- and boat-travel away from the PNG capital of Port Moresby (see: Welcome to the Spirit House!). The heat and humidity were unrelenting. My fellow-travellers (photographer Karl Grobl from Jim […]
[…] with no electricity or running water; a village comprising not one, but two spirit houses (see: Welcome to the Spirit House), but lacking a school. The river is the area’s lifeline, and those children who attend […]
Hi Ursula,
Your photos are lovely and brought back memories of my years as a tour guide on the Sepik River in the 1970s. I was interested to see the new style of mask carving in Kanganaman. Just a note, from Pagwi you go downriver to Kanganaman, not upriver.
Where else in PNG did you go? Would like to see more.
All the best,
Mary-Clare
Hi Mary-Clare,
Many thanks for the visit – and the correction! I don’t know my left from my right – or my up from my down, obviously.
I still have a few Mt Hagen photos to go through, but you will find Milne Bay, Paiya Village and Port Moresby in the search box, or follow: https://www.ursulasweeklywanders.com/?s=papua+
Cheers,
Ursula