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Boy on the Brink
Initiation into manhood in tribal Hamar society involves a treacherous run over the backs of cows and steers. In preparation, the boy’s head is partially shaved, he is scrubbed with sand to wash away any sins, and he is smeared with dung to give him strength.
Every society that has been studied by history, anthropology, or sociology, celebrates the passage of its individuals from one social or religious status to another. The ceremonial events that mark these rites of passage can take very different and colourful forms. Many are private affairs, with elders initiating others into secrets that are not shared with outsiders. They often involve ritual marking (circumcision, scarring or tattooing), temporary social isolation, or physical challenges: anything that means that the transition from one group to another, or from one phase of life to another, will not be forgotten.
Sometimes these events are joyous occasions – think weddings or baby-namings – and outsiders are welcome. One of my happiest travel memories is of being dragged into part of an Indian wedding in Rajasthan. Others, while not particularly private, are still challenging for outsiders to comprehend.
Young men of the Hamar tribe in Southern Ethiopia’s Omo Valley participate in a cattle-jumping ceremony called Ukule Bulla. The men (or boys) must run naked, four times, across the backs of ten to fifteen cows and castrated bulls that are held together in a line. Once they have succeeded, they are considered to be adult or Maza (literally: an accomplished one) and can own their own cattle and marry.
So far, so good.
The young men might be understandably anxious about their ability to accomplish this feat, and they are amped up on a strong local coffee brew and local alcohol, but it is the women’s ceremony that is a real challenge for visitors. Before the cow-jumping, they too drink copious amounts, and take part in a noisy, jumping dancing frenzy. At some point during their dance, they insist that their adult male relatives (who are Maza, having already performed their cow jumping, but have not yet married) strike their bare backs with long, wooden whips. The men do not get away with a token ceremonial flagellation: the violent lashings leave open wounds on the backs of women. These become deep scars which the women wear with pride.
Enduring the pain, amid dancing and cheers, is seen as a sign of love and loyalty toward their male relatives. Indeed, the men are considered forever indebted to the women after the ceremony is over.
Once the cattle-jumper has finished his runs, he is draped in an animal skin, blessed, and sent off with the other Maza to have his head fully shaved. The noisy celebrations continue long into the night.
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Our Guide
Local guide Danny from Grand Holidays Ethiopia Tours was a delight, and a wealth of knowledge.
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Hamar Lands
After a morning spent with the Arbore people (see: Arbore Village Portraits) we were back in the high, open Hamar territory.
Young Hamar Woman
Hamar women are easily distinguishable by their clay-and-butter decorated hairstyles, and the cowrie-shell decorated goatskin smocks they wear.
Tourist Trucks
This village had a few boys who were going to be cow-jumping; clearly the tourists were also out in force! After a few minutes on the phone, Danny found us another event in a more remote location, and we headed off again.
In the Hamar Village
In preparation for the cow jumping, the young man visits all the neighbouring villages to invite everyone to his initiation. As is common in this region, the men here all have their own stools.
Hamar Headband
The men and women all love their colourful beaded jewellery and elaborate hairstyles.
Hamar Hat
Colourfully woven hats, beaded headbands, and copper bracelets, are all part of the festival attire.
Dancing Group
All wearing their traditional goatskins – elaborately decorated with beads and cowries – the female relatives of the initiate dance around in circles singing.
Women Dancing
At regular intervals, they stop their circuits to jump up and blow curved horns. The noise is like being in the middle of an Asian traffic jam!
Smoke and Coffee
In the lead-up to the cattle jumping, villagers have days of feasting and drinking traditional coffee, sorghum beer, and honey wine.
Dance Circle
The jumping, dancing …
Women with Horns
… and horn blowing continues.
Woman on the Sidelines
The bells on the women’s legs contribute to the cacophony of the dance.
Leg Bells
“It Takes a Village”
A cow-jumping is a great opportunity for families to get together. A proud uncle shows off his young niece.
Leaves in her Hair
This young woman is a first wife, which we know from her burkule: the leather and metal necklace with its distinctive knob in the front.
Ritual Coffee
The visitors share special coffee – or it might be sorghum mash.
Thatched Hamar Hut
Some of the huts in the village are quite beautiful.
Hamar Woman in a Wreath
The Initiate
This young lad was only eleven years old, and he seemed very small and scared surrounded by his tall elders. Usually the young men who are participating in their cow jumping are older than this, but he is the only son of an ailing father; he needs to be initiated before his father dies.
Men with a Switch
The dancing women – who are at least partially intoxicated – call previously initiated male relatives, known as Maza, in to whip them with long, wooden switches.
Scarred Backs
Women’s scars are a symbolic mark of their loyalty to their families, demonstrating how they are willing to suffer for their male relatives. The wounds are dressed with lye and dried cow dung, so that the welts will harden into raised and visible scars.
Fabulous Hair
I loved checking out the different hair styles, and couldn’t help but wonder how long it takes to create some of the fabulous styles.
Guns Everywhere
Automatic weapons are everywhere: these pastoralists need to protect their herds from raiding neighbours.
Steering the Cows
Late in afternoon, the villagers gather up a number of cattle …
Holding the Cows by the Tail
… and line them up in preparation for the jumping.
Coming!
Leaping over the lineup of bulls takes courage and skill; he needs to make four complete passages to ‘pass’.
And Going!
The young lad is naked and smeared with dung to give him strength. The strips of tree bark around his chest are a spiritual protection.
Hamar Girl in Sunnies
After the jumping, the celebrations continue: the young women look for young men to dance with.
Man in a Feathered Hat
Everyone is all smiles now that the jump has been successfully completed.
It was a fascinating, but challenging, afternoon visit.
It hard to know in what form these customs will continue into the future. Tourists, and the money they bring, have been making inroads into Hamar lands for 15+ years, and this is bound to change Hamar society.
Hopefully, they will be tho ones to choose the way in which any changes happen. As one Hamar woman put it:
“We must learn to sow and cultivate tourism like a sorghum field.”
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[…] The Hamar practice scarification, much of which can be quite beautiful. What is alarming is the significations of some of these scars: men wear rows of pala or “hero scars” which relate directly to the number of tribal enemies they have personally killed. In addition to decorative scars, women proudly display ragged wounds on their backs, which they have received from a ritual (and distressing to most outsiders – including me) whipping that takes place as part of men’s ‘cattle jumping’ ceremony. This is a unique coming-of-age-initiation practice – which I’ll talk more about when I get to those pictures. (see: Coming of Age in a Hamar Village). […]