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Cheerful House Front
The narrow streets and laneways of Colombo’s Slave Island district are full of colourful buildings that speak to the area’s rich multicultural heritage.
A walking tour with a companion and a camera is a great way to get to know a section of city, and to absorb the local colour and history.
I was lucky enough to have a friend who had been living and working in Colombo, Sri Lanka, for a few years before I visited the city. As two photography enthusiasts who hadn’t seen each other for many years and had plenty to talk about, we had a wonderful time alternating coffee, lunch, and dinner stops with some serious photo-walking around the city. After a morning of chasing Buddhas in two of Colombo’s very eclectic temples (see: Buddhas of Colombo), and a lunch break, we went for a wander through the suburb of Slave Island.
More commonly known to those who live there as Kampong Kertel or Kompanna Veediya, during the period of British colonial rule (from 1796 to around 1865), this Colombo district was called Slave Island in reference to the slaves held there under Portuguese colonial rule (1505- 1638).
The Portuguese, who first arrived in Sri Lanka in 1505, brought around 1,600 ‘Kaffir’ East African slaves from Goa to what was then Ceylon. The popular story is that in the 18th century, under Dutch rule, the Kaffir population had grown to larger numbers, giving them a sense of strength: they mounted an insurrection, resulting destruction of property and deaths. After subduing the riot, the Dutch started housing the Kaffirs on an island in Beira Lake, which at the time was full of crocodiles.
According to one academic article I found (GHCC Annual Lecture 2019), this whole story is apocryphal. But, the name itself stuck – even after the area was connected by bridges and causeways to the rest of the city.
Today, Slave Island is part of Colombo’s Postal District 2, and is predominantly a re-developed commercial area with hotels, shopping centres and street-food stalls. But, there are still narrow laneways packed with colourful homes, and multi-story shop-houses. The area is known for its multicultural heritage, and remains a mix of Malay, Sinhalese, Tamil, as well as minority cultural groups. Islamic, Buddhist, Hindu, and Christian houses of worship sit in close proximity to each other.
Join us for a wander through the streets and laneways of Slave Island:
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Empty Building
Many of the buildings in District 2 stand deserted and peeling.
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Park Street Mews
Other parts of District 2 have been redeveloped. The Mews is a cluster of old warehouses that has been turned into a vibrant collection of restaurants, bars, and event spaces. (iPhone6)
Holy Rosary Church
Roughly 11% of Colombo’s population is Roman Catholic. This charming little church in Slave Island is popularly know as the Infant Jesus Church.
Rio Cinema
I love the textures of this old building. It opened in February 1965 screening South Pacific – and finishing out its days showing pornographic films. The building was looted and burned during the 1983 riots, and now stands as an empty shell and an occasional venue for pop-up exhibitions, art festivals, and music gigs.
Sri Murugan Temple
Down a narrow laneway, and with Colombo’s Lotus Tower in the background, …
Bell Tower
… we find Sri Murugan Temple, one of Slave Island’s Hindu temples.
A Musical Deity
Every surface of the temple is decorated with creatures …
Deities in an Alcove
… and colourfully painted figures depicting Hindu stories.
Al Qadir Hanafi Jummah Masjid
Down another laneway, a beautifully painted mosque calls people to prayer.
Blue House Front
So many of the old homes are beautifully kept …
Colours on a Wall
… and the colours and textures of the old walls are visually interesting.
Tuk Tuks in the Street
Everywhere I look, on the arterial roads …
Child on a Bicycle
… and down winding lanes, life is happening.
Street Art
Stillife Found : Shoes on the Step
Shoes are not worn indoors in Southeast Asia, so there is footwear to be found on every front step.
A Hive of Activity
In a Hurry
The Cousins
I was really pleased to come across these young girls – and their mothers – before it got too dark.
Girl in Blue
Cousins and siblings, they are growing up as friends in this small neighbourhood.
Girl in Florals
They were great fun …
Girl in Green
… and enjoyed posing, …
Girl in Denim
… and showing the results on the back of the camera to their mothers.
Man on a Yellow Balcony
Overhead, the neighbours were curious.
Woman and Girl on a Balcony
Sundown over Beira Lake
The afternoon grew late, and the sun dropped behind the high rises in the redeveloped end of Slave Island. (iphone6)
There are those that say that the buildings in the remaining old sections of Slave Island are not properly maintained and are run down. There is certainly the risk that the push towards urban renewal will destroy the cohesive streets and charming character of the traditional shophouse-style buildings.
The neighbourhood was a joy to wander through, and the people we met were friendly and welcoming – something often lost in those shiny new high rises.
Until next time,
Happy Wandering!
Pictures: 10November2018
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