Bodrum : Türkiye’s Charming Southwestern Port

A yellow sunset over Bodrum harbour and castle, Türkiye.

Golden Hour over Bodrum Castle
I was treated to some glorious Aegean sunsets while I was in southwestern Türkiye – like this one over Bodrum Harbour and the medieval Castle of St. Peter.

Bodrum, a port town – or city, depending who you talk to – on the Aegean in the southwest of Türkiye was not on my travel radar.

But, it is on other people’s!

Conde Nast calls it: the most glamorous hangout in the Mediterranean. According to AI, it is often: dubbed the “St. Tropez of Turkey.” And, it turns out that a friend-of-a-friend lives there.

I flew into Bodrum from Istanbul for a small-ship cruise around the Gulf of Gökova (see: the Gulf of Gökova). Before and after my sail, I spent a few days this delightful port town.

The town’s main attraction is the historic medieval castle, built from 1402 onwards by the Knights of St John. Known as the Castle of St. Peter or Petronium – or simply Bodrum Castle, it sits on a small rocky peninsula set between two sheltered bays and houses the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology. I enjoyed a few hours exploring this Crusader site (see: The Castle of St Peter).

The rest of my stay, I wandered the streets: the postside streets full of wonderful food and tourist shop, and the more suburban streets of old stone housing and artists’ ateliers. 

Join me for a visit.

A gulet and several power boats anchored in Bodrum Harbour, Türkiye.

Bodrum Harbour
I arrived into Bodrum mid-afternoon, and the first thing I did was check out the port. The sailing gulet in the middle of the harbour is very like the one I would be cruising on.

White buildings on the Bodrum waterfront, Türkiye.

Bodrum Waterfront
This port used to survive on fishing and and sponge diving, but tourism has taken over – as you might guess from the beautiful waterfront developments.

Motor cruisers and St Peter

Bodrum Castle in the Harbour
I found myself a restaurant with a view …

A meal, Churchill Kafe, Bodrum, Türkiye.

Follow the Food: Something Turkish
… and enjoyed a Mediterranean meal as the sun lowered over the water.

An orange sky over Bodrum harbour and castle, Türkiye.

Sunset on Bodrum Castle

Gulets moored in Bodrum Harbour, Türkiye.

Masts in the Harbour
The next day, I wasn’t due to arrive on my boat until late afternoon. I went to see where she was moored: I wanted to know how far I’d be dragging my bags!

Stone coat of arms, Borum Castle, Türkiye

Stone Carving
After a late brunch, I paid a visit to St Peter’s Castle (see: St Peter’s Castle). This heraldic design is one of the 249 separate coats of arms found on the castle walls.

Covered shopping street Bodrum, Türkiye.

Shopping Street
The shopping street running parallel with the waterfront was a delightful place to explore.

Blue glass evil eye amulets, Bodrum shopping street, Türkiye.

Nazar Boncuğu – Evil Eye Protection
Traditional glass amulets to protect against negative energy and the “evil eye” (nazar) come in all forms and sizes.

Turkish delight in a shop display case, Bodrum shopping street, Türkiye.

Follow The Food: Turkish Delight
Food is everywhere! I could never quite get a handle on what is – and isn’t! – a Turkish delight.

Turkish delight in a shop display case, Bodrum shopping street, Türkiye.

Follow The Food : More Turkish Delights
They seem to come in every shape and colour!

Three men at rest, shopping street Bodrum, Türkiye.

Life In The Street
The shopping street was a great place to people-watch. These shopkeepers kept each other company as they waited for customers.

A Turkish flag on a hill overlooking Bodrum Harbour.

Setting Sail out of Bodrum Harbour
Mid-afternoon, our gulet pulled out of its mooring and made its way through the harbour.

Gulets in Bodrum Harbour, Türkiye.

Boats in Bodrum Harbour
We are not the only gulet on the move.

Gulet in Bodrum Harbour, Türkiye.

Another Gulet
Gulets are a traditional style of two- or three-masted wooden sailing vessel built in the coastal towns around the gulf. Today, they are popular for tourist charters and use diesel power. On many, the masts are purely for show and are not properly rigged for sailing. We never tested ours!

Night lights on Bodrum Harbour, Türkiye.

Night Lights on Bodrum Harbour
We found an anchorage far enough away from town that the lights were visible but the shore-front discos were just a faint thud.

View up to St Peter

Back into Bodrum Harbour
A week later, under the watchful eye of that crusader castle, we were back in Bodrum Harbour.

The Diver; a 2000 sculpture in bronze, Bodrum Türkiye.

Dalgiç – The Diver
Our gulet is back in a mooring in Bodrum Harbour, so I went in search of solid ground. I found this work in bronze by Turkish sculptor Yavuz Tanyeli close to our vessel.

White buildings on a Bodrum hillside, Türkiye.

Afternoon over Bodrum
I took myself on an afternoon walk, and found the town – like much of the Mediterranean – populated with white buildings.

Clay head: "Dragut" an Ottoman Corsair, Bodrum Türkiye

“Dragut” Turgut Reis (1485 – 1565)
A morning walk led me past an artists’ studio where a variety of sculpted heads were on display. I recognised Shakespeare, but the Turkish hero Turgut Reis – known as Dragut – was foreign to me. The name on his pedestal allowed me to look him up: he was born in 1485 near Bodrum. He became an Ottoman corsair, a naval commander, a governor, and a noble. Under his command, the Ottoman Empire’s maritime power was extended across North Africa.

A gated suburban wall, Bodrum Türkiye

Lines and Curves and a Metal Gate
Once I’m up the hill and away from the port, the narrow cobbled streets are tidy and graceful – and the homes are behind gated fences.

A cobbled suburban street, Bodrum Türkiye

Dappled Light in the Laneways
Light filters through the trees, and people go about their daily activities.

Buses in the New Bodrum Bus Terminal, Türkiye

Yeni Bodrum Otogarı – New Bodrum Bus Terminal
After lunch, my bags and I are at the Bodrum bus terminal, ready for an eight hour bus trip east.

As sad as I was to leave Bodrum behind, the bus was clean and comfortable – and I was on the way to another adventure.

Text: Happy TravelsUntil next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 30September2022, 01October2022, and 07-08October2022.

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