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Elder and Younger
In the simple village of Desa Tumbur on the southern Spice Island of Yamdena, Indonesia, a grandfather cares for his grandchild while watching the visitors with friendly curiosity.
Head-hunters once lived here.
In spite of the inroads made by nineteenth century Christian missionaries, the men of the Tanimbar Islands were still known as fierce warriors well into the independence fights of the twentieth century. Today, local languages and many traditional beliefs, ceremonies, and dances survive. On the largest Tanimbar Island of Yamdena, the Yamdena language is widely spoken. Even though Christianity is the main religion, ancestor worship is still practised.
These islands are at the southern edge of the Moluccas, an archipelago of about a 1000 islands in the eastern part of Indonesia. Long known to European sailors for the nutmeg, mace, and cloves that were found exclusively there, they were once part of the Dutch East Indies. While most of these Spice Islands are forested and mountainous, the Tanimbar Islands are predominantly dry and hilly.
I was on a small ship – the Coral Geographer – on a trip through Indonesia’s Spice Islands and Raja Ampat. Our time was drawing to a close, and we were travelling southeast from Banda Neira (see: In the Historic Town of Banda Neira and A Rainy Morning on Banda Api) towards our home port of Darwin, Australia, a mere 550 kilometers (340 miles) – or roughly 285 to 300 nautical miles – almost due south.
We anchored for a few hours in Saumlaki Bay and those who wished to go ashore on Pulau Yamdena made use of the ship’s tenders.
This was to be the last Indonesian stop on our almost-three-week voyage, so I was determined to explore.
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Catholic Church in Olilit Barat
As our tenders head towards Yamdena Island’s administrative centre of Saumlaki, we have views over the harbour and up to the neo-Gothic church nestled in the tropical greenery.
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Kids on the Waterside
We are the main attraction! People have come out to watch our tenders tie up on the waterfront.
The Ursulas
We are met by a number of local guides with very good English. I spot one with the same name as me, and we pose for a photo together.
Colourful Buildings
Many of the buildings on the waterfront are commercial warehouses. It is a Saturday, so most shops are shuttered and quiet.
Banana Flower
We were bused for a hot and stuffy 45 minute drive north along the island coast from Saumlaki to Desa (Village) Tumbur. The local guides on each bus gave a running commentary on local sights and history. This village is just 7° south of the equator; nothing says ‘tropical’ quite like a lush banana plant.
The Tumbur Village Gate
We wait outside the arch leading into the village while we are treated to a ritual welcome, including song and dance.
Sacred Kingfisher – Todiramphus Sanctus
This beautiful little bird had flown into our ship and injured itself; staff kept it safe in a box until we made landfall, where it could be released.
Tumbur Residents
Our visit seems to be quite the event, and countless locals turn out to watch and greet us.
Mother And Child
Young Child
The younger children especially watch us with some caution.
Market in the Schoolyard
Desa Tumbur has a reputation for its detailed black ebony wood carvings and traditional weaving. Unfortunately, I didn’t see anything of particular note for sale at this impromptu market. I was (quietly!) taken aback by the availability of dead seahorses.
Boys on the Balcony
Back in the village streets, young boys watch the goings-on from the upstairs terrace of a two-story building.
Local Shop
Crowded little shops like this one are common all across Southeast Asia.
Tumbur Waterfront
The beach was hardly salubrious; of course, I don’t know if the litter has washed down from the village, or in from the Arafura Sea.
Wash Day
The village itself, by contrast, is tidy and orderly.
Breadfruit Tree – Artocarpus Altilis
Food is all around in the tropics.
Basil in Bloom
Some gardens are growing herbs and vegetables.
Legume Plant
They did tell me what this was, but I have since forgotten!
Guava – Psidium Guajava
Down a Village Street
According to one source, Tumbur was recognised in 2022 as the cleanest village in the Tanimbar Islands.
Boys on the Balcony
The village lads continue to keep an eye on us from their perch as we leave the village.
The Locals Wave us Off
Back in Saumlaki, we get aboard our tenders. The locals, …
Village Guide
… including our guides, wave us off.
Drinks on the Deck
On the ship, dinner drinks are at the ready. We continue south, with the sun setting on the Arafura Sea behind us.
The island of Yamdena already felt a world away.
Until next time,
Safe Sailing!
Photos: 05April2025
