.jpg) A Quiet Bench
There is something very “English” about a wood and iron bench sitting amid wet grasses and spring daisies. “Spring” – that season of new life and fresh growth – is a concept originating in the temperate regions of Europe.
There is nowhere quite like an English country-garden to herald Spring in all its traditionally subtle beauty. The gentle rains – for which the countryside is so well known – coupled with slowly increasing sunlight, give rise to fresh budding leaves and an abundance of flowers. When the sun is shining, it is easier to believe in the ideas of rebirth, rejuvenation, renewal, and regrowth.
In practical terms, the arrival of spring, after a long, cold, grey winter, signals that it is time for people to get outside – either into their own small patches, or into those wonderfully expansive gardens of the old stately manors, preserved under Great Britain’s National Trust.
And so it was, one day last month while I was in Hereford, that we all grabbed our cameras and donned our sensible shoes, and went for a walk along the Wye River in The Weir Garden, a National Trust property just 8.0 kilometres (5 mi) west of the city.
This 10 acre (4 hectare) garden was designed by the prior owner, Roger Parr, and his head gardener William Boulter. In addition to the riverside walk, which follows the river banks over the old retaining wall, there is a traditional walled garden, dating back to the early 19th Century, and a Victorian glass house, added in the 1920s.
It’s a lovely place to visit, but you might want a raincoat or an umbrella!
.jpg) Green
Everything is spring-green, as we enter the Weir Garden property. There is a small entrance fee, unless you are a National Trust member. .jpg) Gumboots
The paths along the riverside are pebbled and dry, but most Brits always have their Wellies in the car, so they can put them on “just in case.”  A Quiet Bench
There are plenty of places along the riverside to sit and watch life – and the Wye River – go by. Daisies
I love daisies! They may be rugged and simple, … Daisy
… but they are so cheerful. Purple Campion (Silene) Valerian (Centranthus Ruber)
Clusters of flowers hang over the river as it winds past us. Daddy and Daughter
Narrow steps lead down to the water’s edge, where a father and daughter check for passing fish. Canoes on the Wye
Thanks to the local canoe rental, you can easily follow the waters down-stream. Child in Nature
Youngsters are at their happiest in nature, climbing trees and getting grubby. On the Tyre Swing
Near an open area with plenty of lawn chairs, there is a natural play ground built from ropes and wooden stumps; the tyre swing was a huge hit. I think it was only the promise of ice-cream at the near-by self-serve shop that got this little one to loosen her grip. Green on Green
The grass and woods surrounding the upper path are impossibly green … Colourful Daisies
… with pink daisies stretching out from the verges. (iPhone6) Admiring the Wye River
The upper path looks over the old retaining wall and the river banks. Sheep in the Meadow
Freshly-shorn sheep graze in the neighbouring meadow, as we move from the Riverside Walk to the Walled Garden. Common Red Poppies (Papaver Rhoeas) at the Wall
The 19th Century Walled Garden protects lots of freshly-planted kitchen vegetables, but is also colourful with the spring flowers. Columbine (Aquilegia) Flowers in the Rain Carnivorous Pitcher Plant (Sarracenia)
In true Victorian style, the heated glass house contains some real exotic specimens! Bees in the Onion Flowers
Back outside, a light, misty rain … Bees in the Onion Flowers
… doesn’t prevent the bees from going about their business. Treecreeper (Certhiidae)
We were heading back to the car when one of my companions got excited about what he could see in the trees. Treecreeper (Certhiidae)
I had to look very, very hard before the small, fast-moving treecreepers became remotely visible to me! Canadian author Margaret Atwood has said: In the spring, at the end of the day, you should smell like dirt.
We did.
 Dirt, flowers, and maybe a little ice-cream.
Until next time,
Happy Rambling!
Pictures: 29May2017
Posted in Great Britain,Nature,Travel,United KingdomTags: blog,England,English,environmental portrait,Herefordshire,National Trust,nature,people,Photo Blog,Spring,Swainshill,The Weir Garden,travel,Travel Blog,uk,Ursula Wall,walk
Dirt Roads West
It’s a long drive west across Mongolia, and for much of the way, the roads are more of a “suggestion” than an actual motorway. It was a long day.
Long, bumpy, and noisy.
I’ve said it before: Cross-country travel in Mongolia is not for the faint-hearted – or for those who are weak of bladder! The Russian UAZ (Ulyanovsky Avtomobilny Zavod) four-wheel-drive vehicles that are tough enough to negotiate the matrix of mud, rocks, dirt and potholes that pass for a road network across the expansive steppes of Western Mongolia are not designed for passenger comfort.
We – a small group of photography enthusiasts organised by Within the Frame and managed by local guides G and Segi – were on our fourth day driving west from Ulaanbaatar (see: Gandantegchinlen Monastery). Our ultimate destination, the annual Golden Eagle Festival in the far-western province of Bayan-Ulgii Province was still a few driving-days away. In theory, we were driving so that we could immerse ourselves in the local landscape and culture. In practice, we saw the land from the windows of our 4x4s and mostly stopped well away from any settlements: our evening camps were dictated by the few accommodations open as the tourist season waned, and our lunch- and “comfort-breaks” took place wherever we happened to be.
I spent a lot of years on the Canadian prairies, so I have an affection for open plains with dustings of snow and mountains in the distance. I reflected on those days of driving across the winter wheat fields as I sat watching the steppes bounce past outside my UAZ window. The difference was that the prairie highways were smooth and straight; Mongolian roads pitch worse than a bad-tempered camel or a small boat in a storm.
We had been warned: it would be a long drive from our ger camp at Tosontsengel to our “hotel” on the shores Khyargas Lake.
And it was…
… with its own unique beauty.
Snow and Mist on the Steppes
We weren’t long out of our ger camp at Tosontsengel before the view out of our UAZs disappeared into snow and fog. (iPhone6) Snowy View from the Truck
It amazes me that our drivers could keep track of the vaguely marked-out dirt roads under the falling snow. (iPhone6) Rocky Piles
Much of the landscape is open and empty; a pile of rocks indicates it is time for a comfort stop! UAZ Vans on the Empty Road
It is low-season; we have the roads pretty much to ourselves. UAZs racing on the Flats
Our drivers amused themselves on the long drive by taking up impromptu challenges with each other. As we came alongside Telmen Lake, they fanned out three across and made their own paths. Bumping, pitching, and curving, they dodged giant holes and herds of cows and sheep. We started singing the theme to the TV show Bonanza as our driver raced the other vans across the flats. Bridge to Nomrog
We were going to have our lunch at the side of the road, so we passed through the small town of Nomrog without stopping. Snow on the Foothills Yaks on the Steppes
With their shaggy coats and bushy tails, the herds of domestic yaks are a sight! Yak on the Steppes
Their short legs disappear into the tall grasses … Yak on the Run
… but they move pretty quickly when they want to! Horse on the Steppe
I was excited to see a fabled Mongolia pony through my UAZ window. (iPhone6) Mongolian Nomad on the Steppe
Nomads on horseback herding their sheep and goats are dotted all over the open landscape. The Road Ahead
As we continue westward, the road deteriorates further. UAZ on the Road Ahead
Sun and rain alternate as we continue to aim for – but never quite reach – the mountains. Mongolian Ponies
The afternoon sun shines on the herds of well-fed ponies that I watch through my truck window. UAZs on the Road
Snowy mountains float in the distance as we drive into a landscape … Landforms in the Distance
… that makes me think of prehistoric times and Jean M. Auel’s Clan of the Cave Bear series. Roadworks
New roads are being built – but not in time for us! The contracts for new highways have been won by Chinese contractors who bring in their own construction crews. View from the Truck
We drive a short stretch of gravel road-base before being tipped back out onto the dirt. (iPhone6) Sunset Quiet
The sun dipped below the horizon before we reached our destination; it was a good excuse to stretch our legs and momentarily escape the noisy vehicles. It was dark before we reached our hotel – which was possibly just as well! The old Russian building (called by one French blogger “an ancient Soviet (Internment?) Camp”) looked like a high school, but lacked internal plumbing or any other creature comforts. The toilets were holes over pits at the petrol station next door, and the washing station was a walk in the other direction, at the cold-water tank. I thanked my lucky stars for my headlamp: otherwise, I would have had no chance of negotiating the rocky, obstacle-laden paths in the dark.
As chance would have it, the one person in our group who saw a mouse is deathly afraid of them. She was persuaded that mice don’t climb stairs, and that she’d be safe on the second floor. Those of us on the ground floor tucked into our beds with hard and lumpy horsehair mattresses and crunchy barley-filled pillows, and took our chances with the mice.
 Still, it was warm.
May all your roads be less bumpy!
Happy travels –
Photos: 25September2016
Posted in Landscapes,Mongolia,TravelTags: animals,blog,landscape,Mongolia,nature,Photo Blog,road trip,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Tulip Tree Flowers
Tulip Trees (Liriodendron tulipifera) are native to eastern North America, and in these Appalachian cove forests, they can grow to almost 180 ft (24 m). The trees don’t produce their unique tulip-like flowers until they are 8-9 years old. You could spend weeks – or even years – exploring the scenic views, the mountain trails, the towns and villages, and the flora, fauna, music, culture and craft along the Blue Ridge Parkway. Meandering along the spine of the Blue Ridge Mountains in America’s Appalachians, the National Parkway starts at Rockfish Gap, Virginia, where it continues south from the Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park (see: In the Virginia Woods), and runs 469 miles (755 km) to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and the Cherokee Indian Reservation in North Carolina.
It was this time last year, late in an American spring, that my husband and I were driving south along this “National Scenic Byway”. The timing of our trip had been determined long before by family functions, not by the parkway’s peak blooming season. Shrubs and plants come into flower according to whim, location, and weather; but we got lucky: various ground-dwelling wildflowers were in bloom, and the flowers on the rhododendron and azalea bushes and the mountain laurel and tulip trees, were out in full glory.
We had only a little over three days – which sounds like a lot for the relatively short distance, but when you consider that the very maximum speed anywhere along the Parkway is 45 mph (72 kph), and when you factor in all the excuses to stop, we could have used more time. Still, we did manage lots of scenic breaks for flowers and views, explorations of historic and cultural sights, a few walks, and time out for wild berry pies and other Appalachian treats.
Join us for the first part of our journey.
Humpback Rocks Farm Visitor Center
We were not very far along the Parkway (Mile 6.1) when when we made our first stop at a Visitor Center. There is a walk to Humpback Rocks from here, … Blue Ridge Instruments
… but we satisfied ourselves with a look at the static displays … Outbuildings and Vegetable Patch
…and a walk around the old Appalachian farm buildings. Wood Anemone (Anemone Nemorosa) in the Vegetable Patch Out Building
I always marvel at how hard early farmers had to work, and the ingenious solutions that they came up with for food preparation and storage, in the days before electricity and refrigeration. Fence Posts and Ivy
Split rail fences were common in these heavily-wooded regions. (iPhone6) Fallen Fences
Built from easy to split, rot-resistant wood, they last a long time – but not forever! Afternoon Sun at Ravens Roost
By the time we made our next stop, at Ravens Roost (Mile 10.7), the afternoon sun was angling lower in the sky. Ravens Roost Marker
From this overlook, sitting at a height of 3200ft (975 m), you can see north to the Shenandoah Mountains and south to the Great Smoky Mountains. Fallen Rhododendron
All along the roadway, rhododendron blooms lay where they have fallen. View from a Parkway Overlook
Everywhere we pull over, the trees and mountains extend off into the distance. Sheep Laurel
Definitely a laurel, I think this is too pink to be the “mountain” variety, and I’m guessing it is Kalmia angustifolia, which is found all over eastern North America. Either way, the buds are lovely. White Tailed Deer
Small, timid white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus) feed on the verges as twilight drops over the road. Bedford Sunset
We were treated to and old-town sunset as we pulled off the parkway to find our bed for the night. (iPhone6) Rhododendron on the Roadside
I never tire of wild rhododendron! We were not long in the park on our second day – after an overnight break in Bedford just north of Roanoke – when we stopped the car to explore the flowers. Rhododendron
This day fits us just that bit further south, and the blooms are plentiful. Short bushes with their huge flowers cling to inhospitable-looking granite boulders. Flame Azalia
I was especially excited to find the endemic Appalachian flame azalea (Rhododendron calendulaceum) in full flower. Mountain Laurel
Another of my favourite plants native to the eastern United States, is the very pretty mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia). Tulip Tree Flowers
I remember seeing a picture of tulip trees (Liriodendron tulipifera) in a book when I was a child in Canada, and not believing that they could be real. I still think they are pretty amazing. Smart View Loop Trail
Determined not to sit in the car all day, we stopped at Smart View (Mile 154.5) to walk the short (2.6m/4.2km) loop trail … Smart View Loop Trail
… though the wet … Virginia Woods
… and impossibly green … Tall Trees
… Virginia woods. Fungus in the Shadows
The sheltered ground is home to fungi … Frog in the Leaf Litter
… and tiny frogs are almost invisible in the leaf litter at our feet. Trail Cabin
We finally reached the cabin that was home to the Trail family in the 1890s. We are meant to have a “right smart view” here, but the dogwood blooms are finished, and the clouds are coming in. Rock Castle Gorge (Mile 170)
The rains are starting to roll our way again when we stop at the overlook near Rocky Knob. The Parkway originated during the administration of President Franklin D. Roosevelt, with work started late in 1935 and mostly finished by the end of 1966. The project required negotiation with the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians, whose lands were affected, and displaced many existing farm-holding residents and landowners.
Thank heavens for Roosevelt’s effort and foresight! Today, the Parkway is a priceless ecological and historical resource. “The parkway has been the most visited unit of the National Park System [almost] every year since 1946…”
These wonderful green spaces are so hard to recover once lost.
Until next time,
Enjoy the green spaces!
Pictures: 25-26May2016
Posted in America,Nature,Travel,USATags: America,Blue Ridge Parkway,drive,flowers,landscape,National Park,National Parkway,National Scenic Byway,nature,Photo Blog,road trip,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,VA,Virginia,walk,woods
“El Faro” in Albir
It’s an easy walk from the Valencian seaside resort town of Albir to the lighthouse at the top of Sierra Helada, or “Ice Mountain”, in the Sierra Helada Natural Park in southern Spain. We’d heard the stories about the Costa Blanca (White Coast) on the Mediterranean in Southern Spain: cheap flights from the northern parts of Europe makes this area a playground for “hens parties”, retirees, and school-leavers.
On our recent stay in Alicante Province, Spain, my husband and I met representatives of all these groups. We were staying in the planned resort of Platja de l’Albir (also called Albir, El Albir or L’Albir) – part of the Valencian town of L’Alfàs del Pi – and we discovered (like countless tourists before us) a region with a magnificent climate, good infrastructure, and innumerable reasonably-priced options for food, accommodation, and recreation.
One of Albir’s top attractions is the short walk from the Playa de Racó (“beach corner”) waterfront to El Faro (the lighthouse) in the Parque Natural de la Serra Gelada.
Join us for a stroll.
Anchor on the Mediterranean
A giant sculpture of an anchor give visitors to Albir a distinct sense of place. Lovers on Playa Albir
The Mediterranean Sea entertained us with endless blues. Playa Albir
It is mid-May; the northern-European tourists have not yet arrived in their full numbers, but the beach is already busy. Costa Blanca – White Coast
As we walk towards the Sierra Helad National Park, we have views over the Mediterranean towards the rocky outcrop at Peñón de Ifach. Pathway Markers
There are a number of walking trails in the park. Tunnel on Ruta Amarilla
Our trail to the lighthouse is on a short, well-marked and smoothly-surfaced section of the Ruta Amarilla (Yellow Route). Fringed Pinks – Dianthus
The first section of the trail is a little steep – especially in the afternoon heat after a late Spanish lunch! Fringed Pinks – Dianthus
The many herbs and wildflowers make good excuses to pause for rest. El Faro in Albir
The lighthouse comes into view 439 meters above sea level on Serra Gelada – Frozen Mountain. The mountain’s name was reputedly given to it by fishermen who though it looked like an iceberg from the sea on moonlit nights. Wild Daisies – Calendula Arvensis El Faro on Serra Gelada
The lighthouse is another bend closer, sitting amid its scrubby vegetation. The smells from the Mediterranean heather, thyme, and lavender bushes are delightful on the warm air. Yellow Thistles
I had no idea thistles came in any colours other than purple! These yellow ones were all along the trail. Ancient Ruins
The base of the mountain is dotted with caves that were used by smugglers and pirates between the 16th and 18th centuries, and lookouts were built along the ridge tops to keep watch. Down to the Ochre Mines
The hillside also has ruins from 19th century ochre mining enterprises that you can visit. The stone pylons in the valley were part of the supports for the wagon rails. Path up to El Faro
Today the lighthouse operates a few hours a day as an information centre, … The Light
… but it was closed long before we arrived. Marine Mists and Fish Farms
The views from the hilltop are stunning and well worth the walk. Sign Posting
The whole walk is dotted with informative signs in Spanish and English. Yellow Thistle and Ruins Spanish Lavender (Lavandula Stoechas)
Spanish Lavender grows wild in this arid Mediterranean climate… Smell the Spanish Lavender!
… and it smells wonderful! Looking towards Albir
The walk down was much quicker than the walk up, and before long we could see the town of Albir and the mountains behind through the rock-slide tunnel. Ardilla Roja
Our final treat was a red squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris) peaking out from behind an Aleppo pine (pinus halepensus) tree. Red Squirrel (Sciurus Vulgaris)
I was especially excited because I had never seen one in the wild. The numbers of red squirrels have decreased markedly in much of Europe. It was a pleasant walk, and we had absolutely perfect weather: sunny and clear but not too hot. I was glad not to be doing it in the heat or crowds of summer!
Until next time –
Happy Rambling!
Pictures: 15May2017
Posted in Animals,Landscapes,Spain,TravelTags: animals,flowers,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,Spain,Ursula Wall,walk
Sun Setting over Ho Chi Minh City
The classic Level 23 Wine Bar at Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers is a great place to round out a day’s exploration of Vietnam’s old southern capitol, and to watch the sun set over the expanding contemporary city. Oh, Saigon!
It was a name familiar to those of us who grew up in the West: first as an exotic part of France’s colonial empire, until – as Saïgon – it achieved a hard-won independence in 1955, and then as a component of the evening news for its pivotal role in the Vietnam War; the city now known as Ho Chi Minh (HCM) has been at a crossroads of history and culture for centuries. It started life as a small Khmer fishing village long before the expansion of colonisation by Vietnamese settlers in the 17th century.
The city today reflects this very mixed heritage: it is the most populous metropolitan area in Vietnam, and the county’s fast-growing economic centre. But, it still looks to the past, with magnificent French architecture rubbing shoulders with Asian street food and traditional temples, and reminders of the terrible legacy of the Vietnam War share space with tributes to “Reunification” under the current regime.
The last time I was in HCM, I was only overnighting en route to the Mekong Delta, and I had virtually no memory of the city itself. So, it was with interest that I mapped out a day’s walking-tour for my husband and myself.
I was pleased to find that there was still a roof-top bar at the Sheraton Saigon, as mentioned in my very ancient Lonely Planet guide; watching the sun go down in style over a mojito was a nice reward after a lot of walking!
Join me for some of the sights of old Sài Gòn.
Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon
Our shuttle drop-off and pick-up point was outside the amazing Nhà Thờ Đức Bà, officially called the Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of The Immaculate Conception. Built between 1863 and 1880 to service a growing Roman Catholic community in Saigon, all the materials used in its construction were imported from France. The two 58 metre (190 ft) bell towers were added in 1895. Wedding Couple
The bright red bricks of the cathedral’s exterior were imported from Toulouse. Today they are ‘graffitied’ with sponsors’ names, and provide a colourful backdrop for happy wedding photos. Font Area inside Notre Dame Cathedral
The stained glass in the cathedral is from Chartres province in France. Merci à Notre Dame
Countless tiles inside the cathedral give thanks to Our Lady (Tạ Ơn Đức Mẹ ; Merci à Notre Dame). Although the original tiles were all from France, many new ones have been locally made to replace those that were damaged during the war. The Nave
Built in neo-Romanesque style, the interior of the cathedral is quite elegant. Reunification Palace
Our next stop was at the Independence Palace (Dinh Độc Lập) or Reunification Palace. Inside the Reunification Palace
Built between 1962 and 1966 on the site of the former Norodom Palace, this Vietnamese-designed building was the home and workplace of the President of South Vietnam and Chairman of the National Leadership Committee, General Nguyễn Văn Thiệu, during the Vietnam War. Guide in the Reunification Palace
Tours through the palace recount the long and troubled history of the war years. Vietnamese Visitors to the Reunification Palace
Fortified rooms under the palace are where the South Vietnamese managed their war effort … Communication Centre in the Reunification Palace
… until a North Vietnamese tank bulldozed through the main gate on 30 April 1975, bringing the Vietnam War to an end. War Remnants Museum
Located in what was the US Information Service building, this is a challenging, but important museum. Tank – War Remnants Museum
Originally called the Exhibition House for Crimes of War and Aggression, presentations inside the building illustrate the brutal effects of war, especially on civilians. Horrifying experimental weapons are on display, as are sobering photos documenting the effects of US bombing and napalming. One section, the Requiem Exhibition, compiled by legendary war photographer Tim Page, is devoted to the works of photographers from both sides, who were killed during the conflict. Ho Chi Minh Streets
We needed some time out after the harrowing War Remnants Museum, so set off on a brisk 2 kilometre walk across the old city … Jade Emperor Pagoda
… to the Chùa Ngọc Hoàng, the little temple built in 1909 by the local Chinese community in honour of the supreme Taoist god: the Jade Emperor or King of Heaven, Ngoc Hoang. Lighting Incense
Inside the Jade Emperor Pagoda, it is hot, dark, and heavy with the smell of incense and oil. Prayers and Incense
The majority of people in Ho Chi Minh City practice Mahayana Buddhism, often mixed with Taoism and Confucianism (via ancestor worship). It is not uncommon to see symbols of Buddhism in a Taoist temple like this one. Pouring Oil
Religious practice is an integral part of daily life. Lucky Turtles
Back outside, in the courtyard of the Jade Emperor Pagoda, countless turtles – some with lucky symbols carved into their shells – clamber over each other. Preparing “Street” Food
We got very lucky! Tired and hungry, we managed to remember the name of the restaurant we had seen opposite the Reunification Palace, and took a taxi back to Quan An Ngon 138. Spring Rolls
It turns out that the Quan An Ngon Restaurant is known for presenting diverse regional Vietnamese cuisines in a village market style. We enjoyed our late lunch before setting off again, … Ho Chi Minh City Supreme People’s Court
… past the courthouse … Ho Chi Minh City Hall
… and the magnificent French Colonial City Hall … Saigon Central Post Office
… to the Saigon Central Post Office, the most celebrated example of Renaissance architecture in Vietnam. Saigon Central Post Office
The building, completed in 1891, was designed by the renowned French architect Gustave Eiffel. Stepping inside is like walking into the past. Saigon Opera House
We paused briefly to admire the stylish French Colonial Municipal Theatre of Ho Chi Minh City, also known as Saigon Opera House … Ho Chi Minh Skyline after Dark
… before ending our self-guided tour with drinks on the roof and city lights. As I said at the outset, it was the perfect way to round out a long but fascinating day.
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 29February2016
Posted in Architecture,History,Museum,Travel,VietnamTags: architecture,blog,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,history,Photo Blog,religion,Religious Practice,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,Vietnam,worship
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Delightful. I also like daisies.
😀
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