Young Torin Peat on guitar, Jambalaya stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

The Face of the Future
Fourteen-year-old Torin Peat, who was the winner of the 2025 Byron Bay Bluesfest Grommets (under-18) Busking Competition, plays his original song, Horseback Blues.

I’m not the first to say it, but music crosses boundaries: the boundaries of time and place.

One of the things I always loved about the annual Easter long weekend Byron Bay Bluesfest music festival was the cross-section of ages, styles, and origins, of the performers – and of the audience members. The family-friendly event always billed itself as a collection of ‘Blues and Roots’ music, but in reality, its reach was pretty broad.

With three to four stages playing at any one time across the four days, there was a lot of music to choose from this year. My sampling ranged from the youngest performer, High School student Torin Peat playing blues standards and his original tune, to the old rock-boogie masters George Thorogood & The Destroyers playing the soundtrack of my youth.

As much as I enjoy the music, I love getting close enough to the stages to get portraits of the artists.  That was even more difficult than usual this year: the tents felt more tightly packed than ever and the fenced-off areas for the VIP ticket-holders and for the sound equipment seemed to take more space than before.

Still, I got a few pictures that I’m happy enough to share.

Marc Broussard, Mojo stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Passing the Baton
American singer-songwriter Marc Broussard is an example of passing down traditions: this funky bayou-soul artist is the son of acclaimed Louisiana Hall of Fame guitarist Ted Broussard.

Clayton Doley, Mojo stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Hands Across the Water
Helping Marc Broussard out on keyboard and hammond organ, Australian musician Clayton Doley keeps the audience moving.

Men in silhouette in front of a lit stage, Mojo tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Behind the Scenes
Large portions of the tents are gated off for the sound technicians. (iPhone15Pro)

Christone Kingfish Ingram, Mojo stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

In a Crowded Tent
Either I’ve got shorter, or the rest of the audience has grown taller! Once I work my way around the sound booth, I get a somewhat better view of American blues guitarist and singer Christone “Kingfish” Ingram.

George Thorogood and the Destroyers, Mojo stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Old Rockers never go Quietly!
George Thorogood and the Destroyers had the audience in the packed-out Mojo tent bouncing in high gear.

Razor wire outside Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Razor Wire and Flags
The walk from the carpark into the festival grounds felt longer each day – but we had beautiful weather. (iPhone15Pro)

The Clarence Bekker Band on the Crossroads stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

An International Experience
I started my third day with the Clarence Bekker Band in the Crossroads Tent. This joyful group includes musicians from all over.

Portrait: CB Milton on the Crossroads stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

CB Milton
Also known as Clarence Bekker, CB Milton is a Dutch musician from Suriname – currently based in Barcelona. He has had a number of chart singles, alone and with the international Playing for Change band.

Eric Stang on the Crossroads stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Channelling Jerry Lee Lewis
Joining the the Clarence Bekker Band was Eric Stang, keyboardist, bassist, singer, actor, and music producer from Chicago. He recently had a successful run as Jerry Lee Lewis off-Broadway in the Tony Award-winning musical Million Dollar Quartet.

Francisco

Francisco ‘el Rubio’ Guisado
Barcelona-based Spanish guitarist ‘el Rubio’ is a key part of Clarence Bekker’s band.

Dave Fester on the drums, Crossroads stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Borrowed Drums
This one was a surprise! I’m not sure if I can count the number of times I’ve seen Australian Dave Fester on the drums with different line-ups over the years (eg: Weekly Wanders+Dave Fester).

19-Twenty on Mojo stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Buckle In!
The high-octane energy brought to the stage by guitarist Kane Dennelly, drummer Jeremy Berg, and double bassist John Gwilliam from 19-Twenty needs to be seen to be believed!

Kane Dennelly from 19-Twenty on Mojo stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Kane Dennelly
19-Twenty is one of those groups I’ve seen before (eg: Weekly Wanders+19-Twenty), and they never disappoint. As a bonus, they invited my festival-favourites (see: Healing Wounds and Telling Stories), Leea Gentz and Julz Parker, onto the stage to help out with one of their songs.

Twilight over the Crossroads tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Tent Filling
The light is falling under an autumn sky outside, and the tents are filling up further. As the evening draws on, those passageways disappear entirely.

Melbourne Ska Orchestra on Mojo stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

On the Mojo Stage
Nicholas Caruana, also known as Nicky Bomba, fronts the lively multi-pieced Melbourne Ska Orchestra.

Melbourne Ska Orchestra on Mojo stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Sound the Horns
The orchestra covers the stage with people …

The Melbourne Ska Orchestra
… and fill the tent with joyful, bouncy sound.

Xavier Rudd with hands waving in front, Crossroads stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Hands in the Air
The last time I saw the Australian multi-instrumentalist Xavier Rudd, his song Follow the Sun had only just recently been released. Then, he was playing alone as a one-man-band.

Lisa Purmodh on guitar on the big screen, Crossroads, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

On the Big Screen
This year, Xavier’s beautiful set included backup musicians, including Lisa Purmodh on bass.

Vance Joy and two backup singers, Crossroads stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Singing in the Dark
Another popular Australian singer-songwriter, Vance Joy, took to the Crossroads stage next. With backup help, he performed his crowd-pleasing boppy blend of folk and pop.

Neil Finn and Crowded House, Crossroads stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Neil Finn
The last band on stage for the night was the current iteration of Crowded House, fronted by Neil Finn, the youngest of the musically talented Finn brothers from New Zealand.

Torin Peat on the Jambalaya Stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

On the Jambalaya Stage
We arrived early on Sunday, the final day of the festival. My first stop was the Jambalaya tent, where young Torin Peat seemed dwarfed by the stage.

Young Torin Peat on guitar, Jambalaya stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Torin Peat
But, the fourteen-year-old winner of the 2025 Byron Bay Bluesfest grommets (under-18) busking competition more than held his own.

Kim Churchill, Delta stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Under Lights in Delta
I wasn’t going to miss the delightful Kim Churchill – a popular Australian folk, rock, and blues singer, songwriter, and musician.

Kim Churchill, Delta stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Kim Churchill on Guitar
I love Kim’s stories about his early busking days.

Birren on guitar, Delta stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Birren
Birren, the winner of the adult category in the Byron Bay Bluesfest busking competition joined Kim on stage.

Lech Wierzynski and the California Honeydrops, Delta Stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Lech Wierzynski
The California Honeydrops are irresistable with their New Orleans style laid over their roots, blues, R&B, and soul music. I’ve shared their track When it Was Wrong before:

(Click for When it was Wrong by the California Honeydrops)

Sunset over a popcorn sky and the Byron Bay Bluesfest carpark, Australia

Popcorn Sky
As the afternoon turned to evening, the tents filled up even further. We sat outside the Crossroads tent (no hope of getting in!) and caught some of the sounds. Fortunately, there was nothing on later that we desperately wanted to see; we headed back to the car and went home early. (iPhone15Pro)

Last year, they advertised that the four-day 2025 event would be the last. I suspect we weren’t the only ones who bought tickets for that reason.

Text: To the Music

And, I think that was why the whole event was so overcrowded.

I am glad that the festival will be back next year – but I won’t be.

I’ll have to find my music some other way.

Until next time …

Photos: 18-20April2025

A smiling young West Papuan woman in her bird of paradise paint and headdress, Kwatisore, Indonesia

A Bird of Paradise
Youngsters in their traditional costumes are ready to perform for us in the remote and tiny village of Kwatisore on Cenderawasih Bay in Papua, Indonesia.

It was a trip I’d been anticipating for a long time: an ocean voyage on a small ship to visit remote West Papuan villages and to snorkel in the marine-rich waters around Raja Ampat and the Spice Islands. The chance to swim with giant whale sharks was what had sold me on this particular itinerary.

We were aboard an Australian ship, the Coral Geographer, and had been in Indonesian waters for five days. After leaving Sorong, we sailed clockwise around the Vogelkop, or Bird’s Head, of New Guinea. We stopped at Mansinam Island to snorkel amid colourful coral and small fish and to visit the village itself (see: Welcome to West Papua).

Unfortunately, on leaving Mansinam Island it became apparent that our ship was not making good headway: one of the azipods that provides the vessel’s propulsion was not working. As a consequence, we had an extra sea day, and arrived late into Cenderawasih Bay.

Cenderawasih (“Bird of Paradise”) Bay is the large body of water that sits between the Bird’s Head and the rest of New Guinea. It is bordered by the Indonesian provinces of West Papua to the west and Papua to the east. Kwatisore Bay is a small part of the larger bay, near where the two provinces meet. It is known for consistently high sightings of whale sharks. 

Once we finally arrived, we did get our whale shark experience, and a visit to the little village of Kwatisore – albeit a day late.

We were lucky!

Cenderawasih Bay National Park is Indonesia’s largest marine park, and permits are required by groups wishing to snorkel with the huge fish. Our permit window had not yet expired when we arrived, and the fishermen operating the bagan – the floating fishing platform – we were aiming for, were still willing to chum the water. By prior arrangement, fishermen in the bay throw small bits of food into the water (chumming) to make sightings of whale sharks even more reliable.

Growing up to 18.8 m (61.7 ft), whale sharks (Rhincodon typus) are the largest known extant fish species. As a slow-moving, filter-feeding carpet shark, they pose no risk to divers or snorkelers. Swimming amongst these giant creatures was a magical experience.

After our snorkel, we went ashore in the little village of Kwatisore. Following tribal tradition, before entering the village itself we all had to step on a paddle to avoid transporting any bad spirits with us. Once on the village green, we were treated to a musical welcome and a performance of the Birds of Paradise dance, in which a hunter shoots one of those magnificent birds.

Following the performance, I broke away from the larger group to wander around the tiny village. Do join me!

Floating fishing platform, Kwatisore Bay, Papua Indonesia

The Bagan
Fishing and tourism in Cenderawasih Bay National Park is regulated, and official permits have to be negotiated ahead of time. Fortunately, as I was part of a group, this wasn’t my problem! The floating fishing platform we snorkeled around was ready and waiting for us. (iPhone15Pro)

Whale shark underwater, Kwatisore Bay, Papua Indonesia

Whale Shark – Rhincodon Typus
In preparation for this trip, I had bought a waterproof silicone phone cover. It kept my phone dry; unfortunately, it also rendered the phone pretty unresponsive to my commands! That – plus the chum in the water – led to focussing issues. (iPhone15Pro)

Whale shark underwater, Kwatisore Bay, Papua Indonesia

Whale Shark Below
Snorkeling with these giant creatures – about the size of a large bus – was an experience I won’t soon forget! (iPhone15Pro)

Houses on the Kampung Akudiomi waterfront Kwatisore Bay, Papua Indonesia

Kampung Akudiomi Waterfront
After a quick shower, we were shuttled to the nearby village for a visit. There is not much clear land here! Dense jungle rises up steeply behind the houses.

Houses on the Kampung Akudiomi waterfront Kwatisore Bay, Papua Indonesia

Kampung Akudiomi Housing
Many of the simple wooden houses are colourfully painted.

Papuans musicians in traditional costume, Kwatisore, Papua Indonesia

Welcome Music
All across the island of New Guinea, face paint and feathers feature hugely in the traditional dress.

Young man in face paint and in traditional costume blowing a conch shell, Kwatisore, Papua Indonesia

Blowing the Conch

Papuans musicians in traditional costume, Kwatisore, Papua Indonesia

Musicians

Portrait of a Papuan youngster, Kwatisore, Indonesia

Youngster
I love the clear, unaffected gaze this youngster gave me as I lifted the camera.

Portrait of a Papuan girl in traditional costume, Kwatisore, Indonesia

Young Dancer

Portrait of a Bird
A school boy sports his bird of paradise costume with pride.

Portrait of four Papuan youngsters, Kwatisore, Indonesia

Young Boys
The locals are as fascinated by us as we are by them!

Young Papuans dancing their bird of paradise dance, Kwatisore, Indonesia

Dancing Birds
Birds of paradise mate for life; the boys and girls dancing here are paired off.

Young Papuans dancing their bird of paradise dance, Kwatisore, Indonesia

Birds of Paradise

Young Papuans dancing their bird of paradise dance, Kwatisore, Indonesia

A Hunter in Pursuit
Oh no! Here comes a local hunter!
Looking at all the feathers used in traditional Papuan costumes, I’m always amazed that there are any birds of paradise left on the island.

Young Papuans dancing their bird of paradise dance, Kwatisore, Indonesia

The Hunter and his Bird
The female bird lies dead, the male bird is left to pine, and the hunter pays his respects to the beautiful creature he has killed.

A simple woven cross on a wooden door, Kwatisore, Indonesia

A Cross on the Door
Christian missionaries made huge inroads into the communities of Papua and West Papua; some version of Christianity is common in these tiny villages.

Wooden house in Kwatisore, Papua Indonesia

Wooden House
There is some electricity, but houses are simple here.

Breadfruit leaves against the sky, Kwatisore, Papua Indonesia

Breadfruit – Artocarpus Altilis
The local food supply quite literally grows on trees …

A green and gold rooster, Kwatisore, Papua Indonesia

Wandering Fowl
… or scratches around under foot.

A Papuan shopkeeper and his shop window, Kwatisore, Papua Indonesia

Shopkeeper and his Shop
Naturally, there is also a small convenience store.

People walking in a Kwatisore street, Papua Indonesia

Tourists in the Mainstreet

Broken wooden rowboat, Kampung Akudiomi waterfront Kwatisore Bay, Papua Indonesia

Our Ship on the Horizon
Life here is wedged between the forest and the sea.

Man on a roof, Kwatisore, Papua Indonesia

Roofer
Meanwhile, there are new houses being built. And yes, he is in bare feet.

Papuans musicians in traditional costume, Kwatisore, Papua Indonesia

After the Performance
When I made my way back to the village green, the performers were still gathered around.

Portrait: young Papuan in traditional costume, Kwatisore, Indonesia

Smiling Bird Hunter

Papuan musician in traditional costume, Kwatisore, Papua Indonesia

Ukulele

Papuan officials in uniform, Kwatisore, Papua Indonesia

Officials
I made a point of saying hello the the government officials who had travelled from the local administrative offices to oversee our visit. They were happy to be photographed in their uniforms.

Evening skies over open ocean, Cenderawasih Bay, West Papua, Indonesia

Evening Skies
We returned to our ship – and to the unwelcome news that, because of our engine difficulties, we were headed back to Sorong instead of to the atolls of Raja Ampat. But, as day turned to evening, we had food, drink, and wonderful skies over the Taman Nasional Teluk CenderawasihCenderawasih Bay National Park. (iPhone15Pro)

We might have lost a part of our itinerary, but we were safe and well-fed. I went to sleep dreaming of those beautiful gentle marine giants.

Text: Safe SailingUntil next time,

Safe Sailing!

Pictures: 24March2025

Hussy Hicks and friends on the Busking Stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Hussy Hicks and Friends
On the tiny outdoor Busking Stage at the Australia’s Byron Bay Bluesfest, the irrepressible Hussy Hicks – with help from friends (l-r) guitarist Minnie Marks, rapper Triple Nip, singer Chris E Thomas, and harp player Greg Parker – bring us to tears with their powerhouse performance of Wilsons River Blues/Washed Away (sound clip below); just one example of the cathartic power of music.

Music can serve to both describe our pain and lift us out of it.

For me, the highlights of this year’s annual Easter long weekend Byron Bay Bluesfest were the “story artists”: those musicians whose performances feel personal, and for whom the lyrics are as important as the music.

Hussy Hicks, whom I’ve been watching for many years (eg: Wanders + Hussy Hicks), are a dynamic and compelling duo, comprising the charismatic vocalist and instrumentalist Leesa Gentz and the blistering guitarist Julz Parker. They are often (and currently) backed by Ali Foster on drums and Tracy Stephens on bass. Classed as folk, they are so much more than that: straddling blues, country, rock, and roots. Their songs tell stories – political and personal – and their more popular anthems (eg: Pirate Flag) are requested by their passionate followers every time they perform.

During the horrific 2022 floods around their studio in Lismore in northern New South Wales, Australia, the band lost all their recording equipment, including microphones, pre-amps, and studio monitors (see: ABC News Hussy Hicks). They managed to help a neighbour, before all being rescued by boat. Some of the trauma around this period – and the healing power of community that helped them through it – is written into the songs Wilsons River Blues/Washed Away. Their performance of this, with guitarist Minnie Marks, rapper Triple Nip, singer Chris E Thomas, and Julz’ dad, harp player Greg Parker, on the tiny outdoor Busking Stage was for me the pinnacle of this year’s four day festival. 

And, I was lucky to catch it! Fortunately, I was alerted to their performance by the App: the printed program didn’t include the Busking Stage. Naturally, I had already made a point of scheduling their other performances into my plan.

Another example of singing through the pain came from Allison Russell, a Grammy-award winning singer-songwriter (Eve Was Black) and multi-instrumentalist from Canada. She references her traumatic personal childhood experiences in the music she delivers with sweetness and power. She was new to me: I only caught a little of her set in Delta Tent on Day 2 of the festival, and made a point of marking her into my diary for the following day.

Join me for some sound-stories in pictures:

Mojo tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Friday Morning
We were so lucky this year: we had another beautiful, blue-sky, day as we entered the grounds early on the second day.

Melody Angel in Mojo tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Melody Angel
I have seen this powerhouse blues-rock artist twice before at Bluesfest (see: Blues Women Rock! and Spotlight on International Performers), and she was my first priority on day two this year.

Melody Angel in Mojo tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Melody and Bass
The Chicago based blues-guitarist singer-songwriter is a formidable cross between Tina Turner and Jimi Hendrix, with a dash of Prince and Chuck Berry.

Camera man sitting high against the roof of Mojo Tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Camera Man in Mojo Tent

Ash Grunwald on guitar, Crossroads Stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

In The Crossroads
Australian blues musician Ash Grunwald is another story-teller – one whose focus is the protection of the environment and the natural world around us.

Ash Grunwald on guitar, Crossroads Stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

That Smile!
I’ve enjoyed Ash before – but it’s been a long time (see: The Local Lineup). His music, his smile, and his comfortable interaction with the audience and his guest performers – his young daughter, and performer Kim Churchill, who I also first saw back in 2016 – reminded me why I loved his performances.

Fanny Lumsden, Crossroads Stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Austra

Fanny Lumsden
Next up in the Crossroads was Australian country performer Edwina Margaret Lumsden, professionally known as Fanny. In her pure, sweet voice, she told stories about the hardships and joys of life in the farming communities of remote NSW.

Portrait: Fanny Lumsden, Crossroads Stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Austra

Portrait of Fanny
Her energy was amazing!

Allison Russell and band on the Delta stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

In the Delta Tent
On the strength of the write-up in the Bluesfest program, I ducked across to catch a bit of Allison Russell.

Allison Russell on the Delta stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Allison Russell
She and her Rainbow Coalition Band blew me away with deceptively sweet and melodic stories of trauma and survival.

Allison Russell on the Crossroads stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Telling her Own Stories
Allison Russell has recorded a number of albums with previous bands, including songs co-written with her with now-husband Jeremy Lindsay (JT Nero) as part of Birds of Chicago. On the Saturday, I enjoyed her full set in Crossroads.

Close Up of Allison Russell on the Crossroads stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Close-Up of Allison Russell

Allison Russell on banjo, Crossroads stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

On Banjo
Much of Allison Russell’s work is classified as Americana. She plays banjo on Eve Was Black, which she co-wrote with JT Nero and which won a Grammy for Best American Roots Performance.

Hussy Hicks and friends on the Busking Stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

On the Busking Stage
It’s a clear night and getting cool – but Hussy Hicks warm the crowd up quickly. (iPhone15Pro)

Triple Nip and Leesa Gentz, the Busking Stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Triple Nip and Washed Away

Chris E Thomas with Hussy Hicks, the Busking Stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Chris E Thomas with Hussy Hicks
One of the great joys of festivals is the cross-pollination that happens. Performers mix and match and join in with each other.

Leesa Gentz, Delta Tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Leesa Gentz
The next day in the Delta Tent, Leesa lets loose with her soaring vocals.

Minnie Marks and Julz Parker on guitar, Delta Tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Dueling Guitars
Two blistering guitarists, solo artist Minnie Marks and Hussy Hicks’ Julz Parker, bounce off each other.

Portrait: Julz Parker on stage, Delta Tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Julz Parker
Julz is an electrifying award-winning guitarist …

Portrait: Leesa Gentz on stage, Delta Tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Leesa Gentz
… and Leesa delivers soaring vocals.

Portrait: Greg Parker on stage, Delta Tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Greg Parker
Julz’ dad Greg is often invited to play his harp, or add vocals.

Portrait: Chris E Thomas on stage, Delta Tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Chris E Thomas
Australian singer-songwriter Chris E Thomas adds her voice to Hussy Hick’s  Ain’t it a Shame.

Hussy Hicks on the Delta Tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Hussy Hicks in Delta
On the Sunday, I have one last opportunity to enjoy my favourite band.

Portrait: Leesa Gentz on stage, Delta Tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Leesa Gentz and her Rain Shaker

Leesa and Julz on stage, Delta Tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Leesa and Julz
Leesa and Julz play off each other: I suspect that this chemistry is part of why they go from strength to strength.

Hussy Hicks with a young fan in the Byron Bay Bluesfest merchandise tent, Australia

Meeting the Fans
In the old days, there was a merchandise tent, where you could actually check out the offerings, and a signing tent where selected bands meet with fans. When I asked, I was told: “We haven’t done that for years!” But, Hussy Hicks made the effort to come out and meet people – and I got my latest CD signed. (iPhone15Pro)

Text: To the MusicSome musicians just connect.

Here’s to the stories … 

… and the music!

Pictures: 18April2025

 

Juniper dotted on the mountainside of the High Atlas Mountains from the Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Juniper on the Mountainside
A steep and rocky path runs from the Azzaden Valley, up through the twisting junipers, over the Tizi Oudid, around the flank of a mountain, and down into the village of Imlil. The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco stretch out all around, as far as the eye can see.

We were starting out early: my Berber guide Mohammed was worried about the impact of the hot autumn sun on our steep climb from the trekking lodge (Azzaden Trekking Lodge) near Tizi Oussem in the Toubkal National Park in Morocco, to the mountain pass we needed to cross.

I was worried too!

I had found hiking in the High Atlas Mountains more difficult than I had anticipated, and spent much of the time struggling and cursing to myself as I walked over the rough and rocky paths strewn with rubbish, donkey droppings, and loose scree. Of course, in the evenings, after a hot bath or shower and over a fragrant tagine of freshly cooked food, all pain was forgotten.

In theory, I was rested. We had only hiked six-and-a-bit kilometres (3.8 mi) the day before, taking a picturesque circuit around the Azzaden Valley (see: Walking in the Azzaden Valley). But, even when I was young, I was no good on up-hills, and the first two kilometres of this day – a 12-km trek through the mountain pass known as Tizi Oudid (Tizi n’Oudid) to the town of Imlil – was mostly uphill.

We set off at 8am. The mountain valley was still in shade that gave the jagged rocks a purple hue. But as Mohammed had promised, before long the sun was up, beating on our backs through an almost-completely-clear sky.

We reached the pass – which sits at 2,219 metres (7280 feet) – before 10am; from there the path flanking the mountainside is as much down as up. That was good news!

The other good news was that we would pass through the town of Imlil itself, giving me a chance to look at some genuine Berber carpets before returning to my accommodation for the night.

That thought, and the breathtaking views (and some nuts and chocolate), kept my spirits high.

Early morning over Azzaden Valley, Azzaden Trekking Lodge, Morocco

Early Morning over Azzaden Valley
As we set off, I have extensive views over the valley from my lodgings. The sky is light, but the sun has not yet reached over the mountain peaks.

Large slab of rock with a Berber village in the distance, High Atlas Mountains, Morocco

Rocks on a Steep Hillside
Everything has a purple hue in the low light. The rocks in these mountains are a mix of volcanic, sedimentary, and metamorphic types, and are scattered across the arid landscape.

Rough stone hut, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Shelter from the Storms
These rough huts are common in the mountains where herders and their goats might get caught out by inclement weather or need overnight protection from predators.

Cairn on a shadowed hill, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Cairn on the Hill
The path rises steadily, up through the rocks – some of which have been piled into cairns.

Exposed roots of a stand of Spanish juniper, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Nature’s Sculpture : Bent and Twisted
I was endlessly fascinated by the twisting trunks and tangled roots of the native Spanish juniper trees (Juniperus thurifera).

Cairn on a rocky red hill, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

More Rocks on the Hillside
As the sky gradually lightens, the colours in the rock become more dramatic.

Spanish juniper on a rocky red mountainside, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Spanish Juniper – Juniperus Thurifera
These native junipers are hardy trees that cling to the rocky slopes, leaning into the winds.

Detail: spiky needles of prickly juniper, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Prickly Juniper – Juniperus Oxycedrus
This Mediterranean High Atlas Juniper Steppe is a montane grass and shrubland ecoregion, home to several types of juniper and cedar. (iPhone15Pro)

Large rocks on a narrow, rough trail, Tizi Oudid, Morocco

Rocky Path
The track around the flank of the mountain is rough under foot and often vague. Good boots and a local guide are essentials!

Shadow selfie on a mountainside, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Shadow Selfie on the Hill
We’ve been on the track just over an hour and the rising sun sends strong shadows over the rough terrain.

Morning light on twisted juniper trees, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Light in the Junipers
The angled morning light sets the rocky ground and the juniper trunks aglow.

Twisted juniper trunks, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Nature’s Artworks : Twisted Trunks

Rocky cairns at the top Tizi Oudid, HIgh Atlas Mountains, Morocco

Cairns at the Top
More rocky cairns mark the pass. Mountain views stretch in all directions.

Detail: Cairns at the top of the Tizi Oudid, HIgh Atlas Mountains, Morocco

2219 Metres – 7280 Feet

Villages in the mountains, the High Atlas from the Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Rounding the Bend
Berber villages dot the valleys as we follow the goat tracks around the mountain.

Mountains in the High Atlas from the Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Mountain Peaks
The High Atlas stretch out into the distance. The path itself is loose and rocky underfoot.

Villages in the mountains, the High Atlas from the Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Red Mountainside
The mountainsides show off their striations of colour as the sun sits high in the sky.

Black beetle on a rock, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Black Beetle
In the absence of any other wildlife (we could hear goat herders’ dogs higher up), I got excited by a common darkling beetle.

Imlil from the Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Imlil Below
The Imlil Valley is fed by the Rehraya River, and is lush with fields of barley and corn, and orchards of walnuts, apples, and cherries.

Red leaf beetle on a rock, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Leaf Beetle – Chrysomela Populi

Mule laden with goods, Tizi Oudid track, Imlil Morocco

Loaded Mule
The little mules and donkeys who service these rough tracks seem to carry their body-weight in goods.

Mosque and village on the outskirts of Imlil, Morocco

Into Imlil
Finally! We draw into Imlil, where damage from the devastating September 2023 earthquake is still visible.

Red-billed chough on an unfinished brick wall, Imlil, Morocco

Red-Billed Chough – Pyrrhocorax Pyrrhocorax
Everywhere you look, repair and rebuilding is taking place.

An Imlil Street, High Atlas, Morocco

In a Village Street
Imlil is at the end of the paved road from Marrakesh and caters to the tourists who come to hike in nearby Toubkal National Park.

Hamsa pendants and other jewellery, Imlil Morocco

Souvenirs and Talismans
The shops are full of arts, crafts, and souvenirs. I was on the hunt for my own Berber rug.

Rough concrete steps to the Kasbah du Toubkal, Imlil Morocco

Stairs to the Kasbah
The Kasbah du Toubkal, where my walk will end, sits atop a hill on the outskirts of Imlil.

The Kasbah Shop, Imlil Morocco

The Kasbah Shop
Admiring more carpets makes for a good excuse to stop after the short, steep climb. (iPhone15Pro)

Environmental portrait: seated berber man, The Kasbah Shop, Imlil Morocco

Fattah Albaz
The shopkeeper is always ready to offer cups of mint tea and have a chat.

Text: Happy Walking!My four days of hiking in the High Atlas ended here: with a hot shower, a tasty tagine, and one last night at the Kasbah before travelling back to Marrakesh the next day.

As reminders of my trek, I had sore muscles, a sense of accomplishment, and a nice new Berber rug.

Until next time!

Photos: 12October2024

Three guitarists on the Crossroads Stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay, Australia

Maoli on the Crossroads Stage
Maoli means ‘native’ or ‘indigenous’ in Hawaiian, and signifies authenticity and genuineness. Under the name Maoli, Kana Akiu-Corpuz, Glenn Awong, and Nuu Kahalehau play a blend of reggae, roots, and country – all with Hawaiian overtones. You don’t get much more boundary-crossing than that!

Any visitor to these pages knows I love my music festivals.

While small festivals (eg: Thredbo Blues, Thredbo Jazz, and Vancouver Island Music Festival) have their charm, the granddaddy of them all is the annual Easter long-weekend Byron Bay Bluesfest. I first attended back in 1999 when it was a three-day celebration of local and international blues and roots music. It featured an incredible number of my favourite artists and introduced me to some wonderful ‘new’ names.

My penultimate attendance was back in 2019 (Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019). I bought tickets for 2020 before going home. Of course, that one was cancelled on account of Covid19. But, I hung in there, and bought tickets for 2021. That year, the festival was Covid19-cancelled again – but at the last minute this time: less than 24 hours before commencement. By then, after long days of driving, I was already lodged in Byron Bay. As I sat for a week watching the rain falling outside my modest cabin, the heart went out of me and I collected my refund.

Last year, they advertised that the four-day 2025 event would be the last. I had great sympathy for the organisers: staging an event of this size in this new, uncertain world is a fraught and risky business. So, I contacted a friend, and together we decided to take the plunge.

Of course, the event sold out and was absolutely jam-packed. And, as we found out later: they never believed it would be the last.

Festival photos (especially without a Press Pass!) are taken under challenging conditions: stage lighting is unpredictable; the tents are dark and crowded; and great swathes of space in front of the stage is reserved for VIP ticket-holders. But, surmounting those challenges is usually part of my enjoyment. I love getting that “one” picture that I’m happy with.

While this year’s lineup included some of my local favourites, there was very little by way of international offering that was high on my list. Looking back at my photos, I have difficulty sorting out my feelings about an event which was so crowded that tents were – at times – dangerous, and which – although it offered lots of good music – featured fewer high-points than usual.

So, to keep life simple, I’ve started chronologically: with some of the performers I saw on the first day – the Thursday afternoon. 

I hope you enjoy the pictures:

Crossroads tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Bluesfest Tents
We got ourselves to the grounds nice and early; the big tents were ready to be filled with music. (iPhone15Pro)

Man in Aboriginal design t-shirt, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Welcome to Country
An Arakwal elder from the local Bundjalung Nation welcomed us to country.

Arakwal Dubay Dancers on stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Arakwal Dubay Dancers
The welcome dance is about sweeping out bad spirits and bringing in the good.

Arakwal Dubay Dancers on stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Dubay = Women
This troupe is made up of young local Indigenous women who dance both traditional and newly choreographed pieces.

Long view of Electric Cadillac on stage in the Delta Tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Electric Cadillac in Delta Tent
After the Welcome, I wandered over to the Delta Tent for my first taste of blues.

Electric Cadillac on stage in the Delta Tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Rocking the Delta Tent
Electric Cadillac is a four-piece blues-rock band from Jakarta, Indonesia. (iPhone15Pro)

Kongko Bangun Pambudi from Electric Cadillac, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Frontman and Lead Guitar
Under Kongko Bangun Pambudi, Electric Cadillac play a mix of blues, funk, and soul: originals as well as old standards.

Young child chasing bubbles, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Chasing Bubbles
Bluesfest has always been family-friendly. This year, there seemed to be many more children than previously.

Kongko Bangun Pambudi from Electric Cadillac, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Introducing the Players
Electric Cadillac frontman Kongko introduces the rest of the band.

M Ade Irawan from Electric Cadillac on keyboard, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

M Ade Irawan
Described as a jazz and blues pianist, blind virtuoso keyboard player Ade Irawan lifts Electric Cadillac to greater heights.

Pierce Brothers, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Pierce Brothers
Billed as a folk duo, these twin brothers from Melbourne brought plenty of energy to the Delta tent.

Budjerah, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

“They Gonna Know my Name”
Reminding me of Stevie Wonder, young Budjerah had the audience in the palm of his hands. 

Budjerah, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Budjerah
Budjerah’s name means first light: he was born just before morning sunrise. The son of licensed pastors, he grew up singing gospel music in his parent’s churches around Fingal Head in the far northeast of New South Wales.

Portrait: Budjerah, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Budjerah Julum Slabb
The young Coodjinburra man from the Bundjalung nation is a multiple-award winning singer-songwriter; he supported Ed Sheeran on his 2023 Australian tour.

Three guitarists on the Crossroads Stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay, Australia

Maoli
The next performers in the Crossroads tent were these Island/country/reggae artists from Maui, Hawaii.

Glenn Awong on stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Glenn Awong
Maoli was formed in 2007 by the Hawaiian musician Glenn Awong and has since become one of the most influential and celebrated commercial recording artists across Hawaii and the rest of Polynesia.

Drummer with Maoli, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Drummer with Maoli
Drummers often get hidden in the background – I couldn’t even find the name of this one, but I liked the backdrop.

Tones and I performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Tones and I
This was one I was looking forward to: Toni Watson is SO much more than the “Dance Monkey” hit that launched her into world view.

Tones and I performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Toni and I on Stage
Toni started performing in 2009 and spent years writing and busking before launching to fame in 2019 with her first single Johnny Run Away and the record-breaking Dance Monkey.

Tones and I performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

On the Big Stage
Tones and I won a busking competition in Byron Bay in 2019; now they command a whole stage production. I hadn’t realised how many of her great songs I would recognise. The Crossroads tent was packed: I was a long way back, with a 200ml lens, and the photos have had some heavy cropping!

Text: LetIt was late, but people were still arriving into the grounds. We decided to make an early get-away and not stay for the last acts – after all, we had three more days of music coming our way.

We danced our way back to the car …

Let’s all dance! 

Photos: 17April2025