Long Logs – Tall Trunks Slowly, the mighty evergreen trees rise to the sky. Slowly, the poles from the abandoned longhouses are reclaimed by the earth. Western red cedars (Thuja plicata) are central to the physical and spiritual lives of the Haida people.
(Click to start Cedar Sister by Terri-Lynn Williams-Davidson.)
In the Haida worldview, the cedar tree is known as “every woman’s sister”, providing for and sustaining our existence. This ancient sister lies at the root of Haida culture. She permeates every facet of Haida life, beginning in the cradle and continuing to the grave and finally, ending at the memorial potlatch and raising of memorial totem poles to commemorate and celebrate one’s life and contributions to the community.
– Terri-Lynn Williams-Davidson
Haida Gwaii, an archipelago in the northern Pacific waters of BC, Canada, is a stunningly beautiful place.
The people who have been part of these islands for at least 13,000 years are intimately connected with the land, the magnificent tall trees, the pristine coastal waters, and the animals who live here.
Nowhere is this interconnection more apparent than in the abandoned Haida villages of Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay,Grizzly Bear Village, (also known as Skedans) on Louise Island and T’aanuu Llnaagaay (Tanu), meaning Eel Grass Village, on on Tanu Island. The fallen poles that were once carved memorials or houseposts lay covered in moss, slowly decaying back to the earth, sustaining the next generation of tall, stately trees. There is a sacred stillness in this forest, with stones, worn totems, and moss-covered house-pits standing as a silent memorial to those who once lived here.
The Haida call decaying cedar stumps ‘nursery trees’; they give life to the next generation.
Haida Gwaii is the heartland of the Haida Nation. Linguistically distinct from other First Nations peoples, the Haida developed a complex class and rank system consisting of two main clans: the Raven and the Eagle. The fertility of their landscape and abundance in the waterways allowed them to foster their artistic skills, and their artwork is highly valued today.
Before the arrival of Europeans, there were more than 100 villages scattered around the archipelago. Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay and T’aanuu Llnaagaay each had between 25 to 40 extended families, with each housed in their own longhouse.
Europeans first sighted the archipelago in the late 1700s, and it became important to the maritime fur trade, and later, to gold prospectors. This lead to multiple waves of new illnesses: typhoid, measles, syphilis, and smallpox. It is estimated that ninety percent of Haida died as a result. The 1862 Pacific Northwest smallpox epidemic alone killed over seventy percent of the population.
With such a dramatic reduction in numbers, most villages – like Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay and T’aanuu Llnaagaay – were abandoned in the late 1800s. The few remaining people regrouped, leaving behind mortuary poles, mortuary houses, and the remains of the original longhouses.
These villages are now designated part of a National Historic Site of Canada and are administered by the Council of the Haida Nation and Parks Canada. They can only be visited with permission, and with Haida guides/escorts.
I wanted to take in as much of Haida Gwaii as I could (eg: Welcome to Haida Gwaii and Stories in the Rocks and Trees). But, I was travelling in shoulder season and Covid19 lockdowns had not long-since ended. Tour operations were not running a full calendar and I was only able to schedule one day-trip into the restricted and difficult-to-access regions of the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve during my stay.
That trip was a day to remember. Join me among the cedars and Sitka spruce.
Boats on the Daajing Giids Docks It was a short walk from my accommodation in Queen Charlotte to the docks to meet my Haida Style vessel.
Boatman and Tour Leader Local to Haida Gwaii, our boat operator James was a wealth of knowledge.
Young Haida Woman Xiila is also a Haida native – albeit living on the mainland so she can study nursing at University. She was glad to be home for the summer, where ‘the air smells SO much better!’
A Rocky Outcrop After almost two hours travelling south down the Hecate Strait in our 30-foot closed-cabin vessel, we slowed at a rocky island near Louisa Island.
A Sea Lion Colony You hear and smell them before you see them! These are Steller sea lions (Eumetopias jubatus), a large, near-threatened species of eared seals (Otariidae).
Steller Sea Lions – Eumetopias Jubatus These are the largest of the seals: bulls can weigh between 450–1,120 kg (990–2,470 lb). The paler females sharing his territory are much smaller and average around 263 kg (580 lb).
Black Guillemot – Cepphus Grylle
Eagle on the Wing Bald eagles (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) are everywhere: watching from their perches high on the cliffs, and circling over the waters for prey.
Bear on the Shore We slow down to watch a young American black bear (Ursus americanus) on the beach on Louisa Island – near where we are about to land.
Carving and the Watchhouse We disembark our little vessel on Louisa Island where Grizzly Bear Village – Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay – once thrived, and stop in to pay our respects to the Watchmen. Once upon a time, Watchmen were symbolic: tall-hatted figures at the top of village poles, keeping the inhabitants safe. Since the 1980s, however, Haida Watchmen are actual people, who share cultural stories and protect the old villages from looting and vandalism.
Gidinjaad – Cousin DiDi Eagle Woman and Watchman in K’uuna Village, Cousin DiDi, shares stories of her life and culture.
Rufous Hummingbird – Selasphorus Rufus I love watching these delightful and feisty creatures. They are often represented in Northwest Coast – including Haida – jewellery and art as symbols of love and beauty.
Nature’s Artworks : Driftwood and Stones
Telling Stories Xiila is the daughter of a current chief on Graham Island, and a descendant of the people who once lived in this village. She tells us historical stories, as well as myths her grandmother told to her.
Leaning Potlatch Pole The tall cedar poles are left where they fall. The one at the back has carved rings, thought to depict how many potlatches the chief had hosted. Potlatches were important gift-giving feasts involving the giving away or destroying of precious goods to demonstrate a leader’s wealth and power.
Fallen Potlatch Pole Potlatches took long preparation; they were usually held to celebrate special events. They included days of music, dancing, singing, storytelling, making speeches, and often joking and games. The supernatural was often invoked, and oral histories and regional alliances were reinforced. The practice was banned by the Canadian government between 1885 and 1951, but continued underground.
Totem Textures
Sitka Black-Tailed Deer – Odocoileus Hemionus Sitkensis While it is lovely to spot wildlife, these destructive creatures were introduced between 1878 and 1925, by European settlers. In the absence of predators, their population boomed, leading to overgrazing and destruction of culturally important vegetation. Efforts to control their numbers continue – so far, with little effect.
Boats in Skedans Bay, Louisa Island
Sitka Spruce – Picea Sitchensis Spiky spruce has hard, sharp needles, but the new growth is fresh and soft.
Our Boatman After a wonderful lunch of salmon and salad, we set off again, motoring south, and pulling onto the beach at T’aanuu Llnaagaay. James helps us ashore.
Boat on Laskeek Bay
Village Map At one time, there were between 25 to 40 longhouses in T’aanuu Llnagaay: around 1840, there were 545 recorded inhabitants.
Fallen Poles tell Stories of Ancient Haida Longhouses Today, the remains of three house-pits are visible.
Rocky Foreshore The village was in a beautiful location.
Stories in the Woods Xiila leads the small group through the village, explaining the layout along the way.
Mossy Textures
Corrugations in the Moss It’s hard to reconcile the atmospheric beauty of this place with its sad – but proud – history.
Haida Gwaii Museum, Skidegate It’s a long – but quiet and thoughtful – trip back up the Hecate Strait, past Skidegate, and into dock at Daajing Giids.
These places are a living memorial to a proud and creative people.
And, an illustration of the part the mighty cedar plays in the cycle of life.
A Tender at the Beach One of our two excursion tenders, Xplorer One, approaches the beach, on the uninhabited island of Wayag (Wajag) in Raja Ampat, Southwest Papua province, Indonesia.
We were in the doldrums.
Quite literally. For three days, we chugged along slowly, never much more than a few degrees off the equator. Our last stop in ‘civilization’ had been in the village of Kwatisore on Cenderawasih Bay (see: Kwatisore Bay and Village).
Fortunately, unlike the ancient mariners of poems, tales, and old history books, we were not reliant on wind for our propulsion in these chancy tropical waters.
Unfortunately, our vessel, the Australian-registered Coral Geographer, had experienced a serious malfunction on day three of what was to be a 19-day voyage through the Spice Islands and Raja Ampat in Indonesia’s westernmost Papua provinces. Our progress was slow, and our direction had had to be adjusted in order to return to our starting point of Sorong to collect parts and a specialist technician. To complicate matters further, it was Ramadan in a predominantly Muslim country.
But, unlike the intrepid sailors from Portugal, Holland, and England who braved these waters in wooden sailboats in the 16th and 17th in search of precious spices, we were at no risk of scurvy or starvation, and at very little risk of warfare (for a history of the Spice Wars, see: Nathaniel’s Nutmeg).
And, we were in some of the most beautiful waters in the world: dotted with islands and teeming with jagged reefs – reefs that had made life so treacherous for those early sailors, but which supplied us with snorkel and dive opportunities a-plenty.
I had bought myself a waterproof silicone phone cover especially for this trip. While it kept my phone dry during trips in the small open boats, it also rendered the buttons pretty unresponsive to my commands. On these particular days, I managed no underwater-shots worth keeping. So, to give you a taste of the remarkable diversity, I’ve included a couple of shots taken by other people who had proper underwater equipment.
Do join me in the middle of nowhere, somewhere along the equator.
Island in Cenderawasih Bay Slowly, our ship pulls out of Cenderawasih Bay to cruise back around Papua’s Bird’s Head Peninsula. Tropical Islands of varying sizes are everywhere. (iPhone15Pro)
NMI : Reef around Pulau Manim We had a morning snorkel on the reef around the tiny island of Manim. The corals are wildly colourful and varied. My photos were all blurry, so I’ve borrowed this one from guest lecturer Dr Jeremy Robertson.
White Sands and Turquoise Waters After lunch on our ship, we head out again on the tenders: this time for a beach landing on Pulau Manim. The colours are incredible! (iPhone15Pro)
Jungle Behind the Beach The beach is narrow; a few steps from the water’s edge, I walk into a thriving, lush rainforest environment. (iPhone15Pro)
Buttress Roots Spreading buttress roots act as stabilizers for the tall trees in the unstable sandy ground. (iPhone15Pro)
Ship on the Horizon Our ship is anchored out in deeper waters offshore. (iPhone15Pro)
Trees over the Shoreline Nothing says ‘tropics’ to me like screw pines (Pandanus tectorius) and mangroves leaning out over a white beach and crystal-clear waters. (iPhone15Pro)
Islands through the Window Two days later, we were finally back over the top of the Bird’s Head Peninsula (Doberai Peninsula) and into the fabled Kepulauan Raja Ampat – the Four KingsArchipelago. (iPhone15Pro)
NMI : Finding Nemo We went for a morning snorkel in what is (rightly!) billed as an area of sea containing the richest marine biodiversity on earth. The sights and colours were extraordinarily vibrant and varied – but my photos were pretty dull and I’ve borrowed this one from staff-member Sara.
Schooner After lunch back on board, we set off again for a cruise through the beautiful National Park waters around the island of Wayag (Wajag). We are not the only ones here, but it is remarkably quiet.
In the Wayag Archipelago Geographically, these remarkable karst islands straddle three major tectonic plates: the Sahul (Australasian), Sunda, and Eurasian plates.
Emerald Waters The colours and textures are incredible!
Tiny Orchids on the Karst Cliffs These islands sit in Wallacea, that self-contained biogeographical region with a unique mix of Asian and Australian flora and fauna.
Karst Islands Tectonic and volcanic activity has led to the uplift of the limestone islands, and karstification (erosion by slightly acidic rainwater) has carved them into an enormous variety of shapes .
Impossible Cliffs Every island is different! It is amazing how the tropical growth clings to the steep sides.
Islands in our Wake We are surrounded by countless uninhabited outcrops. The colours change with every shifting cloud and shadow.
Boats and Islands on the Horizon We land on a small, sandy beach; rather than go snorkelling again, I take a kayak out for a paddle. (iPhone15Pro)
Wild Orchids on the Cliff From the kayak, I can get closer to the sharp and rugged cliffs. (iPhone15Pro)
Tandem Kayak Others take their turns in the kayak on the pristine waters.
Beach on an Uninhabited Island Even with most of our ship-load of passengers ashore, the island feels almost deserted.
Last Light The afternoon draws to a close, and we make our way back to our ship.
Sunset over the Wayag Archipelago
Back to the Ship Our vessel is ready and waiting – dinner won’t be long!
Selfie in a Sunset Sky Sundown is fast in the tropics – blink and you’ll miss it! (iPhone15Pro)
Truly, a beautiful region.
And made even better by the almost total lack of infrastructure or development.
Of course, we were carrying plenty of our own food and drink – and so were cruising these magical waters in absolute comfort.
In the Courtyard of the Shah-e-Hamadan Masjid Reputedly sitting on the site of Kashmir’s oldest mosque, this distinctively spired iteration in the Old City of Srinagar was built in the 1730s. Constructed without any nails, it showcases the age-old Kashmiri craft of paper-mache decoration and the intricately-faceted wood-panelling known as khatamband.
Kashmir.
That fabled landscape of snow-capped mountains and lush valleys – once a princely state under the British Raj – has long been on my wish list.
Today, portions of the overall region are administered by China, India, and Pakistan, with the actual boundaries frequently in dispute. This often renders the area unsafe for tourists. As recently as April of this year, 26 people were killed in a popular tourist spot within the Indian-administered region, with Pakistani-nationals being blamed (see: BBC News: Pahalgam attackers).
I got lucky!
Back during a period of relative calm, I managed to find a small-group photography tour that was travelling to the region. We had arrived in Srinagar, the largest city and summer capital of the Indian-administered union territory of Jammu and Kashmir, the day before, and were staying in well-appointed houseboats on Dal Lake (see: Water, Dreams, and Woodwork).
The first stop on our first full day in the Old City of Srinagar was at the Khanqah-e-Moula, also known as – among other things and spellings – Shah-e-Hamadan Masjid and Khanqah. A Sunni mosque, it was originally commissioned by Sultan Sikandar Butshikan in 1395 in memory of the Islamic preacher Mir Sayyid (Syed) Ali Hamadani. Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani (c. 1314–1384) was a Persian Sufi saint, scholar, poet, and missionary who is credited with spreading Islam across Kashmir and Central Asia. He also introduced Persian handicrafts to the region, laying the foundation for Kashmir’s carpet and textile industry.
The original building was destroyed by a fire in 1480, so what we see today mostly dates to 1731 – having been rebuilt again after yet another fire. Called Srinagar’s most beautiful mosque, it was reconstructed in the traditional manner, without any nails. All the surfaces, inside and out, are covered in papier-mâché (paper mache) reliefs and khatamband, elaborately intricate hand-crafted wooden pieces held together purely by their joinery – and all are wonderfully painted in colourful patterns.
As Non-Muslim visitors, we weren’t allowed into the building. We were permitted to peek through the front door and windows at the lavish interior. And, we could walk around the outside, appreciating the impressively complicated decorations.
Beyond the old wooden mosque, everyday life continues in the old city streets of Srinagar.
Come for a walk with me!
Still Life Found : Flowers on a Shikara Early in the morning, one of Dal Lake’s distinctive wooden boats is waiting at our wharf, loaded with locally-grown flowers for sale. (iPhone12Pro)
A Lotus and a Kashmir Lily The flower-seller generously gave me a couple of gorgeous blooms. (iPhone12Pro)
Textured and Peeling Wood Taxi shakiras collect us, and we are transported over the waters, through the warren of wooden houseboats, and to the shores of the city itself.
A Butcher and his Hookah As we walk towards the Khanqah Shah-i-Hamadan Muslim Pilgrim Hall, we pass what can only be called very informal markets!
Outside the Shah-e-Hamadan Masjid The old city streets aren’t particularly busy, but there is a mix of foot traffic and two- three- and four wheeled vehicles.
Woman in White Outside the mosque, old women sell bags of pigeon-food.
Man outside the Mosque
Pigeons in the Courtyard In Islam, pigeons are associated with peace and safety. Feeding birds – and other animals – is considered sadaqah: a voluntary act of charity and kindness that pleases God and benefits others.
Water Break in the Mosque Some work is being being done in the prayer hall; one of the workers lets me make his picture as he takes a break. (iPhone12Pro)
Papier-Mâché Colour and Khatamband Pattern Intricate woodwork designs and vibrant papier-mâché colours are everywhere.
Door Pull
Inside the Shah-e-Hamadan Mosque The mosque interior is ornate and elaborately patterned. Four solid wooden pillars nearly 7m (23 ft) in height support the ceiling. Each is decorated with painted wooden chips arranged in a fishbone pattern, carved lotus motifs at the base, and leaf designs in the capitals. (iPhone12Pro)
Woman with Bird Food Many of the visitors to the mosque take time to feed the pigeons.
Decorated Exterior These patterns reminded me of the ceramic tiles on the buildings in old Portuguese streets – but like the rest of the building, it is all painted wood and papier-mâché!
Ladies’ Entrance At the back of the building, we find the women’s entrance. It is much smaller than the main front door – but no less decorated.
Over the Jhelum River The mosque backs onto the main river through Srinagar; through the trees, we can just see the multi-story buildings on the other bank.
A Patch of Light
A Couple on the Steps Back in the front courtyard, I meet a local couple who have come to feed the birds.
Tailor in his Shop Outside the mosque, in the streets of Old Srinagar …
In the Narrow Streets … the bustle of everyday life continues.
Tuk Tuk Corner
Man on a Stoop I don’t see a lot of women in the street, but most of the men are happy to be photographed.
The Public Tap Not all businesses or homes are connected to to piped water, so public water taps are critically important.
Local Man
Food Shop In India, you are never far from freshly cooked food …
Man in a Food Shop … and a welcoming smile – even when you are not buying anything.
Pigeons Overhead Everywhere you look, there is colour and life!
Our walk through the ancient streets continued, through bustling markets and to the next old mosque.
Lines and Curves The boardwalk along the edge of Lake Curalo is a stone’s-throw from my front door, and is the main reason we bought our “Sea Change” house where we did. (08May2021)
It is easy to take one’s own backyard a bit for granted!
It is winter in Australia at the moment – a time when I’m often in the Northern Hemisphere looking for better weather. Truth be told, though, winter in my corner of the world – in Eden on the temperate Far-South Coast of New South Wales – is neither that long nor that harsh. When I’m not travelling, I spend a lot of time on my balcony, just letting the sound of the birds wash over me, feeling the air, and watching the light on the water.
I do make a point of going for a short walk most days: tumbling out of my front door, onto the estuary, and turning right along the boardwalk (see: A Little Slice of Paradise), or left towards the pathway.
While house-cleaning old photo-files, I’ve found some “backyard” pictures: photos from a late-autumn and early-winter past, when – thanks to ongoing Covid19 lockdowns – overseas travel was not possible.
When I’m at home, my cameras tend to sit in their case, waiting for the next trip. But, I’ve learned to love my iPhones. As they say: the best camera is the one you have with you! So, these are all iPhone shots. For many years, I’ve used Instagram as a form of sketch pad: trying to “see” and post something at least daily: always in the square format that used to be the requirement on that platform.
Re-editing photos into landscape format when I originally envisaged them as squares can be a challenge, but I think these work well enough to share with you.
Join me for some quiet cooler-weather scenes in my immediate neighbourhood.
The Garden Bench If you want to travel, it pays to keep the yard as low-maintenance as possible! Native plants attract birds and bees, and mostly look after themselves. (08May2021)
Lake Curalo Reflections Technically an ICOLL – an Intermittently Closed and Open Lake or Lagoon – Lake Curalo is a brackish body of estuarine water that is tidal, and sometimes completely open to the Pacific Ocean. Surrounded by tea trees (melaleucas) and tall gum trees including woollybutts (Eucalyptus longifolia), it is home to a large population of waterbirds. (08May2021)
Picnic Bench Every so often, the local council makes some improvements to the the walkway along the lake. There are now a few spots to stop and take in the surrounds. (09May2021)
Back on the Boardwalk Every day, the light is different. (10May2021)
Low Tide on the Estuary Spoonbills and ibises are regular visitors to the mudflats at low tide. (18May2021)
Waterbirds on the Estuary Small numbers of egrets and herons make their homes on the lake, as do large numbers of black swans and Australian pelicans. Gulls and terns stop by regularly. (18May2021)
Colourful Grasses (22May2021)
Swans on the Estuary Although a large number of black swans (Cygnus atratus) live here, they often hide in the tributaries. Only once have I seen them with their cygnets. (22May2021)
Full Moon Over Twofold Bay Eden is a very small place: it is only a ten minute drive to the lookout on the hill on the other side of town. (25May2021)
Full Moon Over the Estuary Aside from the powerlines in my way, I have a good view of the moonrise from my balcony. (26May2021)
Eastern Grey Kangaroos – Macropus Giganteus Although there are many resident ‘roos in Eden, these are on the Panboola Wetlands in the next town over – a twenty minute drive away. (27May2021)
Madagascar Fireweed – Senecio Madagascariensis Although the flowers are pretty, this invasive plant is toxic to livestock. I can’t go for a walk without pulling it out if I see it! (30May2021)
A Curve in the Path We get a fair bit of rain in autumn and winter – but few frosts – so things stay nice and green. (30May2021)
The Impossible Brightness of Morning The low-angled sun bounces off the water. (31May2021)
Red Leaves The leaves on my plum trees put on a colourful display in winter …
Plum Leaves … which is lucky really – as the trees never produce any plums! (03June2021)
Fallen Trees Tea-trees (melaleuca) have a short life-span, and regularly get blown over by strong winds. Palestine Creek is one of several tributaries into Lake Curalo. (06June2021)
Even in the Rain! (09June2021)
A Curve at Low Tide The mouth of the estuary is opened during times of very heavy rains to prevent flooding. (09June2021)
A Bench on the Lake (10June2021)
Tugboat Eden is very much a working harbour, with the two resident tug boats kept busy. (14June2021)
Australian White Ibis – Threskiornis Molucca I never know which birds will be around when I go out! (29June2021)
In some ways, I take it for granted.
On the other hand, I give thanks every day as I feel the sun (or rain!) on my face, listen to the birds around me, and watch the ever-changing light on the water.
Mosque of Hassan II – Casablanca The second largest functioning mosque in Africa sits on a 9-hectare (22-acre) complex overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Indoors and out, it can house 105,000 worshippers. Our small group was getting a limited early-morning guided-tour between prayers.
It was still cool and dim when we loaded our suitcases onto a small bus: the pre-dawn light was too low for me to get much of an impression of Casablanca, that fabled North African city that lends its name to gin-joints, stories, and popular imagination.
I had arrived in the city early-evening the day before, coming off a train from Marrakech. Before that, I’d spent a few days walking in Morocco’sHigh Atlas Mountains (see: Over the Tizi Oudid). I barely had time for a quick shower before meeting the small group with whom I was going to be touring the rest of the country (Premium Morocco in Depth). The light was already falling when we set off for a traditional dinner in a charming restaurant nestled into an old fort.
Our one stop in Casablanca the next morning – once our bags were packed and stowed onto the bus for the trip to Meknes by way of Rabat – was at the massive Mosque of Hassan II. Built under the guidance of King Hassan II (r. 1961-1999), this huge complex – completed in 1993 – sits partly on land and partly over the sea.
I’ve visited a number of mosques over the years – particularly in India, Oman, and Türkiye – but in Morocco, non-Muslims are generally excluded. The Hassan II Mosque is the exception, allowing visitors outside of prayer times. We met with our guide on the expansive plaza around 8am, and set off to learn about the history and the architecture of this massive structure.
Religious Islamic art is typically characterized by the absence of figures, and by the extensive use of decorative calligraphy and abstract geometric and floral patterns. It was the strong geometrics: the lines, the curves, and the repeated patterns, that stood out for me in this particular mosque.
Come have a look.
The Courtyard It’s a long walk from the street (Bd Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah) and across the courtyard in the 9-hectare (22-acre) complex to the mosque itself.
Arches Everywhere Repeated arches balance the 210-metre (690-foot) tall minaret, which was the tallest in the world when it was completed in 1993.
Minaret on the Mosque Moroccan minarets are historically square. This one is intricately decorated with a pattern in chrome and green and blue tiles – the colours of which are said to represent the surrounding sea and God above.
Decorated Ceiling Our first indoor stop was in the small museum, where there are many examples of the materials and techniques used by the 10,000 artists and craftsmen who participated in building and beautifying of the mosque. Ridged ceilings like this help baffle noise.
Decorated Cornice This type of woodwork – dating to the 9th century and typically made of cedar – involves carefully chiselled carving and detailed paintwork.
Decorated Walls Repeated patterns are everywhere. Note the decorative holes above head level which aid air circulation.
More Arches
Main Hall The size of the main prayer hall defies comprehension: it has the capacity to accommodate 25,000 devotees. The floor is heated, and the massive roof high overhead is retractable, allowing for daytime sunlight and stars on a clear night. Speakers are hidden in the decorations on some of the columns.
Carved Details
Our Guide We are given a brief introduction to the history of Islam in Morocco. (iPhone15Pro)
Scalloped Arches With the exception of some Italian white granite columns and the 56 glass chandeliers from Murano, Italy, all of the materials used in the construction of the mosque were sourced locally.
Door Detail : Light Radiating from the Sun
Like a Mace Ornate candelabras – probably of oxidized copper or brass – hang all around.
Lines and Curves and Pillars The Wudu area, where the faithful perform their pre-prayer ablutions, is a symphony of curves. The hall is in the basement, and is accessed from outside the mosque. It houses a total of 600 taps scattered around the 45 marble fountains: which represent lotus flowers – but make me think of mushrooms.
Intricate Sconce
Cogs in the Works Featuring traditional Moroccan motifs, many of the electrically-operated doors are made of titanium to withstand oceanic forces.
Portrait of a Guide
Outside the Entrance Doors
The City and the Sea Beyond The sky has lightened, and we can now see the beach and the city beyond.
In the Courtyard – More Patterned Arches
Fountain Beautiful Arabesque mosaics decorate the 41 fountains around the courtyard.
The Minaret against a Blue Sky After an almost two-hour visit, we take one last look at the minaret and leave the Hassan II Mosque behind. (iPhone15Pro)
Fascinating place.
I’ll have to return one day to get a sense of the city itself …
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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Until then,
