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Through the Layers of Time
On Cedar Island – also known as Cleopatra Island – in the Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye, a traditional Turkish gulet sailing vessel is framed by the ruins of the small 13CE Kitsak Church, built when the Karia region was under the rule of the Eastern Roman Empire. Elsewhere on this little island, visible ruins of city walls, a small theater, and a temple, date back to Ancient Greece and remind us that the region was once the property of Rhodes.
There is something surreal about about dipping into waters where the Egyptian Queen Cleopatra once swam!
Just off the coast in Muğla Province, in the southwestern corner of Türkiye there is a small island called Sedir Adası, or Cedar Island. In the beautiful Gulf of Gökova, a southeastern arm of the Aegean Sea, this island was once a source of cedar. Today the island and its surroundings are covered with a dense, Mediterranean shrubland, and olive and pine groves.
And ruins – Ancient Greek and Roman ruins.
Alternately called Cleopatra Island, it is said that Antony and Cleopatra had a love-nest here – and that the golden sands on the beach where they swam were brought in by ships from the Red Sea in North Africa on the orders of Mark Antony. It has also been said that this type of sand can only be found in Egypt (see: Visiting the Cleopatra Island).
Unfortunately, the claims are dubious. Contemporary research suggests that the tiny, pearl-like grains of sand – while exceptionally rare – are the result of continual erosion of the sandstone bed on site. And, this is not the only Cleopatra Beach in Türkiye!
But, much of the history is real. The ruins are real. And, the island and beach truly are beautiful – well worthy of Antony and Cleopatra. The sands are protected – with prohibitions against removing any, or even walking on it barefoot. Access to the shallow sea for swimming is via designated points.
The island is small: less than 1 km (0.62 mi) long and divided in the middle by a narrow isthmus. Remnants of the strong ashlar wall that once surrounded the original settlement are still standing just above the water-line on higher ground and within forested areas.
The whole island is managed by the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism like an open-air museum. I was happy to pay the modest entrance fee to explore the layers of history scattered around, and to admire the unique beauty. Join me!
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Watch the Marker!
I was on a small-ship circuit in the wonderful Gökova Gulf in southwestern Türkiye. We had spent the morning sailing and swimming and kayaking (see: Sailing the Turquoise Waters). Mid-afternoon, our next destination: Sedir Adası (Cedar Island) comes into view.
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“Kaptan Yarkin”
There are plenty of other gulets on the gulf, with their passengers taking advantage of the beautiful autumn weather.
Ruins on Sedir Adası
As we get closer to the island, the remains of what was once a significant Dorian settlement come into view.
Tourist Boats in a Cove
Cedar Island is about 20 minutes from Çamlı Pier on the mainland, and plenty of tourist boats offer the trip.
Cleopatra Island
This hot, dry landscape was once a trade and olive-growing hub.
The 13CE Kitsak Church
From 129 BCE, the city here came under the rule of Rome – and remained so until the full domination of the Ottoman Empire in the first quarter of the 15th century.
Wooden Walkway
A network of wooden walkways wind through scrub, past the ruins, and over the precious sands at the beach.
Kleopatra Plaji – Cleopatra Beach
The depth of colour in the turquoise water changes with every shift in the light.
Late Miocene Volcanic Rock
The walkway might be designed to protect the precious sand, but I’m pleased that it also protects me from that rough volcanic rock.
Schooners in the Cove
Cleopatra Beach in on the north side of an isthmus; I have views through the Mediterranean scrub to boats anchored in a cove …
Protected Waters
… and across grasslands to a shallow inlet.
Kedreai Theatre
The theatre, which was built in the 4th century BCE, lies outside the city walls. It is not in particularly good shape, but I think the crumbling seats with the olives growing amongst them have far more charm than a renovated space.
Posing in Kedreai Theatre
Antik Tiyatro – Ancient Theatre
The theatre was large for the size of the settlement, with a capacity of 2500 people.
Hellenistic Ruins and Wall
The ashlar wall that once surrounded the settlement is so well-built and durable that much of it stills stand against the sea.
Archaeological Dig Team
Parts of the ruins are roped off, with teams of archaeologists carefully working through them.
A Dry Landscape
Much of the old settlement has been reclaimed by nature.
Hellenistic Ruins
The whole area is strewn with broken columns, capitals, and stones decorated with pictures and reliefs.
Archaeologist at Work
It is very hot and silent as I wind my way through the ancient site.
Apollon Kutsal Alanı – Sanctuary of Apollo
There was a temple here, dated to 2 BCE and thought have been dedicated to Apollo.
Cleopatra’s Waters
Back at the beach, a gentle tide washes against the barriers protecting the golden sand.
Natures Artworks : Pebbles and Shells on Cleopatra’s Beach
Looking at the rounded edges of the shells on the beach, it is easier to understand how the golden beach sands have been formed into tiny spherical grains of calcium carbonate (ooids) over thousands of years.
Swimmers in Cleopatra’s Waters
Lots of visitors to the island take advantage of swimming in the shallow, silky waters off the beach.
Cleopatra’s Waters
With its golden sands, turquoise waters and fabulous mountain backdrop, it truly is a beautiful place.
Until next time,
Safe Sailing!
Photos: 04October2022
