Road Stops, Home Visits, and Fabulous Food: Chefchaouen to Fes, Morocco

A man with a stand of souvenirs and fresh pomegranate juice, Barrage Sidi Chahed, Morocco.

A Smiling Welcome
We were only an hour outside Morocco’s northeastern city of Fes when we made a welcome stop at the Barrage Sidi Chahed, an artificial reserve surrounded by beautiful low mountains.

I was sorry to say goodbye to Chefchaouen in northwestern Morocco; it had to be one of my favourite places in the country so far (see: Weekly Wanders Chefchaouen).

But, my small group was heading south, driving the roughly 200 km (124 mi) to Fes.

We broke the three and a half hour journey at a roadside viewpoint overlooking the Barrage Sidi Chahed (Sidi Chahed Dam) on the Oued Mikkès. The reservoir, backed by beautiful iron and copper-colored mountains, is primarily a water supply dam, but it also serves as a recreational area.

Fes is called the spiritual and cultural heart of Morocco, and it quickly became my new favourite. My room in a sprawling riad-style “palace” inside the medina (old city) was large and comfortable – although the four-poster bed was almost as wide as the room, making entry a bit tricky! I quickly discovered I had access to the rooftop terrace, which afforded wonderful views over the Old City and historic fortifications.

Our evening meal was at a home-turned-restaurant, where we were treated to a traditional chicken pastilla – a sweet and savoury concoction of layered pastry and meat, cooked with eggs, caramelised onions, lemon and sugared almonds, spiced with cinnamon, ginger, and saffron, and then topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon.

Join me:

Shaded fields, Barrage Sidi Chahed, Morocco.

Local Agriculture
This is clearly farming country! Much of the water supply comes from the artificial lake created by the nearby Sidi Chahed dam on the Oued (River or Wadi) Mikkès.

View of fields and Barrage Sidi Chahed, Morocco.

Lac (Lake) de Sidi Chahed
Place names are ongoing evidence of the long years of French “protection” in Morocco – which finally ended in 1956.

Souvenir Stand
Where there is a view, there WILL be a souvenir stand.

Souvenirs
This one featured woven basketry and Moroccan patterned ceramics …

Traditional Handmade Keychains and Tassels
… as well as colourful tassels on hamsa (Hand of Fatima) charms.

Barrage (Dam) Sidi Chahed
It is a beautiful and tranquil spot; the colours are quite magnificent.

Making Juice
Clearly a fair bit of effort goes into pressing the pomegranates.

Pomegranate Juice
The October afternoon is quite warm, so the salesmen does good trade with our small group.

Mint Tea
When we arrive at Riad Houyam, our home for the next three nights, we are treated to a traditional welcome of mint tea.

Outdoor Water Fountain
Like so many buildings in Morocco, our riad (also called Palais Houyam) features copious ornate tiling and an outdoor water tap.

View over the Pool and Surrounds
The flat-top construction means there are plenty of upstairs terraces to explore, …

View from the Rooftop
… and I can see as far as the ancient city fortifications on the hill: the 16th-century fortress Borj Nord and the 14th century Merenid (Marinid) Tombs.

Our Host
Later in the day, we walk the short distance to Riad El Yacout, where we find more pillars and tiles. Our host tells us the history of the restored 16th century private residence, which now operates as a hotel and ‘restaurant’.

First Course: Moroccan Salads
Chopped and seasoned cooked carrots, beetroot and other vegetables, olives, and rice are among the entrées.

Moroccan Pastilla (Bastilla)
Dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar, our main course is the celebrated chicken pie in filo pastry. My verdict: unusual!