A Pedicab in Mainstreet It is not yet noon, but the tropical sun beats down on the tidy packed-dirt street running through the little settlement of Doom. Becaks – or pedicabs – are one of the primary modes of transportation – for goods and people – on this car-free island in Southwest Papua, Indonesia.
Don’t panic!
Doom Island, also spelled Dum, and pronounced /dɒm/, actually means “island with many fruit trees” in the language of the Malamooi, the local indigenous people. This small island sits a half a degree south of the equator, just about 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) away from mainland Sorong, the largest city and capital of Southwest Papua, Indonesia.
We were not doomed, merely plagued – plagued by mechanical, bureaucratic, and communication problems that I have alluded to before (see: Pulau Manim and Pulau Wayag). We were meant to be in the pristine waters around Raja Ampat, but instead were anchored in the industrial port of Sorong, the logistics hub for Indonesia’s thriving eastern oil and gas frontier.
Still, lemonade from lemons …
The just-over 100 passengers on our small ship, the Australian-registered Coral Geographer, were serviced by a wonderful tour crew. The crew organised island visits for us, making use of the vessel’s tenders while the mother-ship was hobbled.
So, not long before high-noon one equatorial day, we set off like mad dogs and Englishmen to a nearby island.
I’m not the only one who has noted the unwelcoming appearance of the docks on Doom (see: The Contented Traveller: Doom Island), while also admiring the tidy town and the friendly locals. This tiny island – just 5 square kilometers, or 500 hectares – has a rich and varied history. It was once a part of the Sultanate of Tidore – a major regional power known for its spice trade – and first appeared in Dutch records in 1863. It was colonised shortly thereafter and became a Dutch administrative post in the early 1900s. Many of the cultural, religious, and architectural influences of that era linger.
During the Second World War, Japanese forces occupied and fortified the island, and parts of the network of tunnels and bunkers they built survive to this day – in spite of sustained bombardment by American and Australian aircraft during the war.
Today, the densely populated town differs from nearby Sorong in that it is mostly inhabited by people who originate in other regions: they are predominantly of Javanese, Butonese, Buginese, or Torajan descent.
Three local guides met us and set off on tours of the island’s historical high-points. I was more interested in getting away from the gaggle of fellow passengers who were being led around in the unremitting heat, and wandered away from them to explore by myself. The island is tiny – just 5 square kilometres, or 500 hectares – so there was little chance of getting lost.
Still, I turned on my walking tracker – just in case!
Houses on the Shore The shore is lined with ramshackle wooden and corrugated iron houses, and the jungle rises close behind.
Two Local Lads Once we had been greeted to the island, I broke away from the group and set off into the streets. These young lads are a perfect illustration of the different ethnic groups that have made Doom home.
YPK Bethel Doom Junior High School Depending on the source, there are between 9,500 and 16,000 inhabitants on the island. Either way, the local high school is tidy, and a reasonable size.
Rangoon Creeper or Chinese Honeysuckle – Combretum Indicum The vegetation in the tropics is often sprawling and random – and always colourful.
A Colourful Pedicab Strangely enough, becaks are exclusive to Doom – you don’t find them in nearby Sorong.
“Motor Becak” The becak drivers are kept busy – mostly with local business, although some of the ship’s passengers make use of them.
Local Police Station
Young Girl The locals are as curious about me as I am about them – and very willing to be photographed.
Saleslady Some of the houses along the main street have tables of produce for sale outside.
Father and Daughter
Another Veggie Stand Another stand with onions, garlic, and other assorted vegetables, fruit, and spice, is laid out in the shade of a porch.
Woman in Red The saleslady is happy to stop and smile as I pass.
Local Children Everyone wants their picture made – with the hand gestures and funny faces so common across the region.
Young Child I loved this solemn little face!
Young Men Even the local lads are happy to give me a smile – just a tilt of my head and a lift of the camera, and they strike a pose.
Local Residents Everywhere I go, locals gather for my cameras.
Young Women
A Quiet Street The streets are clean and empty under the almost-noon sky.
Jesus on a Wall This is a predominantly Christian community.
Mosque Dome Even so, there are a couple of mosques on the island.
Corrugated Walls Pathways run between some of the buildings, and I get occasional views of the ocean.
Denny in the Becak Rank Back at the wharf, I find a seat and some shade – and have a lovely conversation with the clever and enterprising young man who is managing the drivers.
Boats on the Wharf A jumble of boats are tied up at the wharf where I wait for our tender.
The residents on this delightful little island full of fruit trees certainly made me feel welcome, and i enjoyed my wander around their community.
Unnamed and Unsigned This nature-inspired bas relief sculpture was carved in the 1980s into the wall of what-was-then a mostly-deserted towpath along the Lot River in the south of France. Today, Daniel Monnier’s work – often referred to as Le Lot – is a magnificent drawcard on the now-popular walk between Bouziès and Saint-Cirq Lapopie.
The Lot is the longest tributary river in France. Its source is high in the Cévennes, from where it winds around 485 kilometres (301 mi) in a mostly westerly direction across south-central France, flowing into the Garonne near Aiguillon in the southwest.
From the Middle Ages until into the 20th century, the river was the cheapest and easiest way to transport goods. Gabarres (barges) carried iron ore, coal, grains, tobacco, and wine down river to Bordeaux. The return trips up-river carried salt, stockfish, and manufactured goods.
Trips upriver were undertaken with the aid of teams of men or draught animals who walked on shore alongside the river on towpaths (chemins de halage) with ropes, pulling the barges upstream against the current.
Just outside the tiny hamlet of Bouziès, about a thirty minute drive from Cahors, limestone cliffs rise steeply from the water on both sides of the river – making walking along the banks at water-level impossible. In a feat of engineering between 1843 and 1847, almost a kilometre (0.62 miles) of 2-metre (6.6 foot) high, open-sided tunnels were carved out of the cliff, allowing haulage teams to pass. It is the only river towpath in France known to have been built this way.
Not so many years after the towpath was finished, the train arrived in Bouzies. Commercial shipping on the Lot stopped and the river was removed from the list of navigable waterways in 1926. The path became overgrown, and was more-or-less ignored until an artist from Toulouse – Daniel Monnier – found it while on a walking trip in 1984. He spent two years getting permits from various local authorities before commencing his self-funded bas relief that would be part of the natural scenery around it.
Today, Daniel Monnier’s semi-abstract representation of the river and its fauna, flora, rocks, fossils, and whirlpools is one of the highlights along the walk from the port of Bouziès and the medieval village of Saint-Cirq Lapopie.
I was staying with friends in nearby Cahors (see: Modern Life in a Medieval City). We parked near the start of the Chemin de Halage, with the intention of walking the full 3.5 km (2.2 mi) to Saint-Cirq Lapopie – but the weather was against us.
So, we walked out to the end of the Chemin de Halage and back to the car.
This decision allowed me more time to enjoy the wonderful sculptures along the way, the bas-relief on the towpath itself, and the scenery all around.
Grab an umbrella and come along!
Bouziès Parking Lot It was a beautiful autumn day when we reached the parking lot at the start of our walk. The white and ochre limestone cliffs rise steeply on the other side of the river.
Overgrown Waymarker in the Green
“Dry Dock” Before the arrival of the railways, this was an important port. In 1990, the river was reopened to recreational boats. You can rent pleasure boats and houseboats in nearby Cahors, or can put your own boat to water either side of this area.
Lines and Curves I love the lines and textures of old wooden boats.
Grass Growing This particular boat has been out ot the river for a while!
L’Acanthe – Acanthus Acanthus are a flowering plant native to the Mediterranean Basin.
On the Path The sky closes in as we start out on the flat and even path from the carpark to the Halage.
Les Herculéennes De Bouzies Installed here in 2017, The Herculeans are a large work in locally-sourced wood and stone. According to the long interpretation on a nearby sign-board, the artist, sculptor, and architect, Laurent Reynés, sees the work as “contemporary Neolithic art” providing a direct link between Nature and Man.
The Woods
“Borne 1989” This elegant sculpture by artist Daniel Monnier is carved into a boundary stone from the nearby hamlet of La Trapelle.
Into the Cliffs Soon, the limestone cliffs close in …
Look Up! … and rise up all around.
Cave in the Cliff The limestone is pockmarked with caves and crevices – many which have been used; the Pech Merle Caves near here contain Paleolithic drawings which are over 29,000 years old.
Rain on the River
Ganil Lock To control water flow on the river, 75 weirs and a number of locks were built in the early 1800s. The manual lock in the distance has been restored and is in regular use.
“Le Lot” This beautiful and surreal bas relief depicting the life of the river took Daniel Monnier nine months across 1987 to 1989 to sculpt.
Along the Towpath The carved-out cliff is rough-hewn either side of of the bas relief.
Walkers on the Path The path leads away from the river and back into the green.
Pleasure Boat on the Lot
Cottage in the Mists The weather deteriorates, so we turn around …
Daniel Monnier’s Le Lot … and walk back – appreciating the bas relief from the other side.
Wildflowers
M Le Mammouth “Le fabuleux voyage – À la recherche de la lumière….” “The fabulous journey – In search of the light…” Some of the Prehistoric drawings in the nearby Pech Merle Caves include depictions of mammoths. This one was sculpted by Eric Manes-Malmon and Yvan Mathis in 2013, and installed here in 2016.
Passing the sculptures again means we are almost back at the car.
Flying the Flag over Dar Al Makhzen Rabat is one of Morocco’s four Imperial cities: the current Royal Palace there was built in 1864 by Mohammed IV.
The UNESCO World Heritage-listed city of Rabat is known for its blend of tradition and modernity. The capital of Morocco and one of the four Imperial cities, it sits on the Atlantic coast in the north-west of the country. Rabat features clean streets and well-maintained buildings that speak to its Islamic and French-colonial heritage.
The city’s name comes from the Arabic word الرباط (a-Ribāṭ) meaning the ribat, an Islamic base or fortification; this is a shortened version of the name given to the naval base founded there in 1170 by the Almohads in defence of their North African Berber Muslim Empire. Evidence of this period is visible in the walls of the fortress: the Kasbah of the Udayas.
During the Marinid dynasty period (13th to 15th centuries), the city fell into a long period of decline and became a haven for Barbary pirates. The French used the city as their administrative center when they established a protectorate over Morocco in 1912. The country achieved its independence in 1955, and Rabat became the capital.
Lonely Planet suggests at least two days in the city with a guide; we had a few hours. After a morning tour of the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca (see: Lines and Curves and Decorated Spaces), the small group I was travelling with had driven the hour north along the coast to Rabat. Once there, we visited some of the main sights: the Royal Palace, the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the Kasbah of the Udayas, the Andalusian Gardens, and the medina, before continuing our drive to Meknes, the former capital of Morocco, where we would stay overnight.
In the Palace Grounds Our first stop when we arrived in Rabat was in the extensive grounds that surround the Dar al-Makhzen, the Royal Palace. The complex includes a large parade ground, a small mosque, and a number of imperial and administrative services.
The Mosque el Faeh Commissioned by Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah in the 18th century, the Royal Mosque has been meticulously maintained and restored. There is an ongoing tradition of the Moroccan king leading significant prayers and delivering the Friday sermon (khotbah) here.
Fountain in the Central Gardens A mechouar, or courtyard, sits between the mosque and the Royal Palace.
Storks at the Palace White storks (Ciconia ciconia) make themselves at home on the palace grounds.
Royal Architecture The white walls and green-tiled roof of the Dar Al Makhzen, the Royal Palace, display all the marks of traditional Moroccan Islamic design.
Palace Portal The entry to the palace is ornately decorated – and a hive of activity.
Guards at the Door I was fascinated by the different uniforms – and the apparently casual demeanour – at the entry to the palace.
Mausoleum of Mohammed V A short drive brought us to our next site: the mausoleum containing the tombs of the Moroccan King Mohammed V and his two sons, the late King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah.
Polylobed Moorish Arches and Interlacing Sebka-Decorated Walls Built between 1961 and 1971, the mausoleum complex was designed by Vietnamese architect Cong Vo Toan and incorporates traditional Moroccan motifs crafted from modern materials.
Intricate Chased Gold Decoration The roof of the Mohammed V tomb is topped by a beautiful large hammered metal incense burner .
The Grand Theatre Of Rabat Across the road from the tomb, I have a view of the Grand Théâtre de Rabat. Designed by internationally renowned Iraqi-born British architect Zaha Hadid (1950-2016), planning started in 2010 and the building was inaugurated in 2024. The curving design is inspired by the winding of the nearby river and by the flow of Arabic calligraphy.
The Mohammed VI Tower Africa’s tallest tower stands in complete contrast nearby.
Horse Guards The mausoleum has its own formal mounted guard.
Portrait of a Horse Guard
Horseman’s Boots
Pedicab The Boulevard Mohamed Lyazidi outside the mausoleum is busy with all manner of traffic.
Inside the Mausoleum It was a formal day of mourning, so we were unable to enter the complex.
Arched Window Instead, we walked around the mausoleum compound, admiring the beautifully decorated walls.
Old City Walls Back in our bus, we drove past lengths of the Andalusian wall – in varying states of repair. (iPhone15Pro)
The Garden Our next stop was outside the kasbah where an Andalusian-style garden was landscaped in the early 20th century. It is meant to evoke the feel of a riad, the central open square inside traditional Moroccan homes.
City Wall From the garden, we walked around the UNESCO-listedKasbah of the Udayas and the medina.
Hamsa Hand Door Knocker
In the Market The narrow white-and-winding laneways are filled with arts and crafts to appeal to tourists.
Souvenir Fridge Magnets
Red Harbour Marker Rabat is bounded by the Oued Bou Regreg, the Bouregreg River, and the Atlantic. The commuter town of Salé is on the opposite riverbank.
Kasbah of the Udayas This Berber-era royal fort overlooks the ocean. A restoration of the citadel was started in 1914 under the French Protectorate, and today the site – with its scenic views – is a popular tourist attraction.
Bab Oudayas – the Main Gate This monumental main gate was built in the late 12th century. All of the large horseshoe-arched entrance doors into the Kasbah of the Udayas are richly decorated. The pattern features curved bands of interlacing geometric forms commonly seen in Moroccan architecture.
Lighthouse of Rabat We take one last look over the Atlantic Ocean before finding our bus.
I certainly could have used more time in the city of Rabat.
But, we turned away from the ocean, and drove inland towards Meknes, the former capital of Morocco.
Low Tide on the Boardwalk Even in winter, the colours and patterns around the boardwalk along Lake Curalo in Eden, Australia, can be vibrant and arresting. (03August2021)
Remember that time when we were all confined to our houses?
As much as I chafed at have two new and pristine passports locked away, I recognised how very, very lucky I was. I was trapped – like everyone – but I had plenty of space and fresh air, and ever-changing views from the boardwalk just outside my house.
Having to wear a mask was a small price to pay for my allowable 30-minutes of solo “outdoor exercise” in the ever-changing light around Lake Curalo, the estuary (technically an ICOLL – an Intermittently Closed and Open Lake or Lagoon) just outside my front door in Eden, on the Far-South Coast of New South Wales, Australia.
I grew up in a world where winter meant the sparse and dry brown of dead grass and naked trees, and the blanket of white snow that obliterates everything except vague outlines. So, the rich colours of my Australian winter home continue to surprise me.
As I have said before (see: Wintery Colours in my Backyard (Part 1)), I tend not to pull out the cameras when I’m at home, so these are all iPhone (iPhone12Pro) shots that I’ve re-discovered while trying to tidy old files. I’ve originally taken them with Instagram and a square format in mind – and re-editing them into landscape proportions is sometimes a challenge.
But, the challenge seemed worth it, just to remind myself how beautiful this area is. And, what is everyday for me might be interesting and exotic to you.
So, please join me for some quiet wintery walks in my neighbourhood.
Lines and Curves Lake Curalo is tidal – especially when the sandbar is open to the Pacific Ocean. On a low tide like this one, there is marshy ground – rather than brackish water – around the support posts of the boardwalk. (10July2021)
Grasslands The landscape around the lake is remarkably varied. In the early Sunday morning haze, the tall gums that surround these grasslands fade into the background. (11July2021)
Daffodil in Bloom In this temperate climate, bulbs seem to get confused and don’t wait for spring to break into bloom. (13July2021)
Boats on Twofold Bay Snug Cove in Eden is a working harbour, with two tugboats and a small fleet of resident fishing vessels. (15July2021)
Rosemary Grevillea – Grevillea Rosmarinifolia Blooms on the native shrubs in my garden provide a splash of colour in the winter morning light. (03August2021)
Royal Spoonbills – Platalea Regia Every day, there is a different mix of waterbirds on the estuary. (03August2021)
Black Swan – Cygnus Atratus A large number of black swans are at home on the lake – but they change location regularly and often hide in the tributaries. So the number I see on a daily basis is variable. (03August2021)
Grasses around the Estuary Soft tufts of grass contrast with the red sorrel and saltbush, and the green tea trees (melaleuca) in the background. (03August2021)
Rusty Fence A caravan park and a public high school back onto the boardwalk on Lake Curalo. There is a fence, but the gate here is open, and the school students often take kayaks out via a small boat launch nearby. (03August2021)
On the Estuary (05August2021)
Winter Colours in the Grass Colour is everywhere, including in the tufts of grass at the shallow edges of the estuary. (07August2021)
The Green and Gold Australia’s national colours are inspired by wattle trees. The coastal wattle (acacia longifolia) generally blooms between August and October. (08August2021)
Morning Sparkle The low winter sun angles off the shallow waters … (13August2021)
The Impossible Brightness of Morning … causing a brilliant sparkle that pierces my eyes. (14August2021)
Morning Low Tide Spoonbills and ibises are regular visitors to the mudflats at low tide, and egrets, herons, black swans and Australian pelicans can usually be found. (17August2021)
Ripples and Poles We often experience gale-force winds, straight up from Antarctica; then there are days like this, when even the ripples are soft and quiet. (18August2021)
Reflections on Palestine Creek The waters in the tributaries into Lake Curalo are more sheltered than the lake itself – and reflect the surrounding tea trees (melaleuca) in their clear, glassy surfaces. (22August2021)
Greenery on Palestine Creek (22August2021)
Moonrise over the Estuary Winter often brings magnificent skies. (22August2021)
Swans on the Blue-Green Waters Every day the colours are different. The black swans (Cygnus atratus) look so elegant gliding across the lake, even with pond-grass hanging from their beaks. (24August2021)
Oystercatchers and Ducks I’m always pleased when the Australian pied oystercatchers (Haematopus longirostris) visit. The Australian wood ducks (Chenonetta jubata), on the other hand, are around all year, and can often be seen with large broods of fluffy ducklings. (24August2021 )
Wet Boardwalk Winter brings a lot of rain. It’s all about the right clothing! (24August2021)
Galahs on the Rails The older iPhones didn’t always do terribly well on details, but I like the splash of pink these galahs (Eolophus roseicapilla) bring to another wet day. (25August2021)
Cormorant on Watch We have three kinds of cormorants on the lake: little pied cormorants (Microcarbo melanoleucos), pied cormorants (Phalacrocorax varius), and great cormorants (Phalacrocorax carbo). I think this is the first. (28August2021)
These morning walks made the long, lonely isolation of repeated lockdowns much more bearable – and I count myself extremely lucky!
A Repurposed Windmill in the Sunrise It is worth getting up early to catch the sunrise over the caldera in Santorini, Greece. (iPhone12Pro)
I’m not exactly a morning person. But, when a walk along the top of Santorini’s caldera is on offer, I’ll make the effort!
The Santorini we see today is what remains of the island after a huge volcanic eruption about 3,600 years ago. That explosion destroyed the early settlements – and what remains of the caldera filled with water. The trail between Fira and Oia, the two most populous towns on the island, follows the north-western rim of this caldera through picturesque villages, past beautiful churches, and over some wild and rocky terrain.
Considered a must-do in Santorini, this 10+ km (6.2+ mi) hike is famous for its stunning views. Rated as moderate, it is definitely challenging in places, with multiple uphill and downhill sections (see: AllTrails). While parts of it are paved, other sections vary between gravel and loose volcanic scree. We were warned that there was no shade and no toilet facilities along the way.
We were staying near Fira (see: Iconic Blue and White). Our guide was determined to set out early to avoid the heat of the day. So, before the sun had even thought about rising, I was in the lobby with my walking stick, hat, and bottled water. I downed a quick coffee, had a last toilet stop, and claimed a bagged breakfast. Before first light, we set off from our hotel to find the path.
By the time the sun was lighting the sky, we had climbed high enough to revel in the morning views.
Pre-Dawn Blue Light We set off from our hotel very early. Santorini has only about 15,000 permanent residents, but with the annual influx of tourists, there is plenty of development. We can see the lights stretching out along the top of the caldera to Oia in the distance.
Church in the Morning Those famous blue-domed Orthodox churches are everywhere you look. This one is the Firostefani parish church of Agios Gerasimos(Saint Gerasimos), built in 1807.
Isolated Windmill By the time we reach Imerovigli – the next village – the sky is changing colour.
A Pink Pre-Dawn Sky
Sunrise over the Islands Watching the light change over the other islands in the Santorini group is just breathtaking. (iPhone12Pro)
Sunrise We stop to watch the sun rise over the horizon.
Sunrise through the Doorway How gorgeous are these hotels! And, what a magnificent location. (iPhone12Pro)
Cave House Santorini is dotted with unique cave houses carved into the volcanic rock. Many of them have been renovated and are used as rental accommodation.
Golden Morning The trail north out of Imerovigli continues to climb.
Shrine over the Caldera Roadside memorials, sometimes referred to as iconostasis, can be seen all over Greece. They might be a memorial to a dead person, but are often intended to provide holy protection against harm or accidents. They contain religious symbols (icons, images of a cross, coins, tokens, etc.) and act as places for religious practice – in effect, they are a reminder to pray or give thanks.
Church of Saint Mark Chapels and churches are everywhere. The little chapel dedicated to Agios Markos – Saint Mark – sits on a hill overlooking our path.
Church of Prophet Elias We have been on the trail an hour when we reach this pretty church with its tidy courtyard and some welcome shade – thanks to a few pines; a rarity on Santorini. The church, built in 1750, is dedicated to the Israelite prophet Elijah the Tishbite.
Walkers on the Path My walking companions head off on a cobbled downhill section; …
Down the Stairs and into my own Shadow … I just can’t resist hanging back to get a shadowed selfie in the sun. (iPhone12Pro)
Over the Caldera The views never stop!
Chapel of the Assumption of the Virgin We are close to rounding our our second hour, and are getting nearer to Oia.
Rocks along the Trail
Mud Brick Hut Accommodation on the island takes all forms!
Nature’s Artworks : Standing Stone Sculpture The last section of the walk takes us through some rough and remarkable terrain.
Chapel with a View Another chapel clings to the edge of the caldera – I never could find the name of this one.
Still Life Found : Mastrogiannis
Into Oia Two and a half hours after starting out, we were well into Oia – and ready for well-earned coffees.
It truly is a stunning walk!
I felt rather sorry for my travelling companions who had made their way to Oia by car instead of walking. They got coffee as well, but none of the experience and satisfaction.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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Until next time,
And the rain continues!
Until the next adventure,
