.jpg) Lion Pack
Three young males were part of the second group of lions we saw on our day full of birds and beasts as we drove around Etosha National Park in Northern Namibia. “We’re goin’ on a lion hunt,
“We’re going to catch a big one –
“I’m not scared.
“What a beautiful day!”
OK – it’s true: the popular children’s chant is about a bear hunt, but I was in a jeep, bumping across dusty gravel tracks in Northern Namibia, and we were in search of lions. The refrain from the children’s song kept running through my head. I felt like a kid, a kid in a candy shop: the animals are just everywhere you turn in Etosha National Park!
I was travelling with photographer Ben McRae, a group of photography enthusiasts, and local guide guide Morne Griffiths. We had been living in tents for three nights at Namutoni Camp, next to the King Nehale Waterhole. Each night, I’d listened to the lions roaring to each other as I lay in the dark. But we hadn’t seen any on our first forays into the park (e.g.: Birds and Beasts on the Veld).
That morning, however, we got lucky. We came across a group of three adolescent males and spent time watching them out of the pop-top in our jeep (see: Camouflage and Zebra Crossings). We returned to camp for lunch, and set off again in the early afternoon, in search of more.
Truthfully, I was supremely happy with all the other animals we came across (and saw at the waterhole itself – eg: A Day at the Waterhole and Elephant Waltz).
Lions would just be a bonus!
.jpg) Elephant at the Waterhole
In my mind, these giants are the true rulers of the veld. .jpg) Zebras at the Waterhole  An Untidiness of Wildebeests
Although the correct collective is an “implausibility of gnu” or a“confusion of wildebeest”, “untidiness” seems to suit them just as well. “I’m a Gnu”
Wildebeest are improbable creatures; I cannot see them without breaking into the song written by the British duo Flanders & Swann: “I’m a g-gnu, spelled g-n-u.” Two Kudus
Kudus – a species of antelope – gather near the waterholes. Giraffe on the Road
The animals in the park own the roads. Giraffe in the Thorn Trees
I love how the curve of the giraffe’s neck is an extension of its spine, as it looks around. White Rhinoceros – Ceratotherium Simum
The largest of the five rhino species – white rhino – are no longer endangered, but are still considered threatened. White Rhinoceros – Ceratotherium Simum
I was thrilled when we came across one on our drive in search of lions. Fort Namutoni
Originally built as a German police post in 1896, Fort Namutoni … Door Handle
… is the gateway to our campsite as we return for a late lunch. (iPhone) Grey Go-Away-Bird – Corythaixoides Concolor
Called the “go-away-bird” for their alarm call: “Kuh-wê!”, grey louries welcomed us to the fort. Kori Bustard – Ardeotis Kori Driver
Our driver is smiling: … Lazy Lions
… he has found a “coalition” of five male lions lazing under a tree. Siesta
It’s late afternoon: the young males clearly have nothing to do but lie in their little patch of shade. Giraffe Walking
It is anthropomorphism, but I love the feeling of ownership that I imagine emanating from the various animals as they walk around their territory. Helmeted Guineafowl – Numida Meleagris Giraffes
I love watching the giraffes as they take turns keeping watch over the waterhole, and bending awkwardly to drink. Lions and Watchers
Where there are lions, there will be safari vehicles, watching and following. Lion Pack
The young princes lounge around the waterhole without a care in the world. Is that a Yawn or a Roar?
It is all quiet today, but their flanks show the marks of fights past. Sunset
In the early evening, the world around us goes quiet as the sun drops over the veld. Night falls quickly over the dusty plains. The sun turned red as I contemplated a day replete with animals: the princely lions that we had been in search of and the others in their domain.
We had one more more morning in the park before heading back to the city …
More on that another time.
Happy Travels!
Photos: 21August2015
Posted in Africa,Animals,Namibia,TravelTags: Africa,animals,landscape,lions,Namibia,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Con Brio – With Energy
Con Brio is a seven-piece soul, psych-rock and R&B band from the San Francisco Bay Area. Charismatic and endlessly-energetic front-man Ziek McCarter grew up in Houston dreaming of being a performer. In 2011, his father – a guitar player and an army vet – was killed by law enforcement. Ziek made the conscious decision to stay positive and to make music that lifts people up. If you want a sense of a country’s diversity, you need only listen to its music.
I was trying to think of ways of organising the myriad of pictures I took at this year’s Bluesfest Byron Bay 2018 – a five-day festival of international blue-, roots-, and any-kind-of-music; one category I thought of using was “World Music”. I probably still will, but, if the performers I plan to group this way are world music, what are the rest? Non-world?
What is American music?
It is so easy for us to think of our own culture – including musical traditions – as the norm. One of the beauties of living continents away from North America is being able to see it – especially the United States – from a distance. It is easier to get some perspective on the overwhelming cultural influence that the US has on other English-speaking countries.
But, as anyone who has visited the United States and seen first-hand the enormous regional differences knows: the country always was a patchwork rather than a melting pot.
This was certainly true of the very different versions of “American” music that I enjoyed at this year’s Bluesfest.
Drum Kit – Lukas Nelson & Promise of the Real
There is something magical about musical equipment on an otherwise empty stage: that anticipatory excitement builds as we wait for the performers to enter. Lukas Nelson & Promise of the Real
What he and his band deliver is a high-quality, high-energy rockin’ good time. Lukas Nelson joins Michael Franti and the Kids
One of the many beauties of festivals is the collaboration that happens: later in the week, we were treated to Lukas Nelson again, when he joined Michael Franti and countless festival-going children on stage for a final number. (02April2018) Warren Haynes and Gov’t Mule
More impeccable musical credentials – this time from a different generation and the other side of the country: Gov’t Mule is the southern rock jam band formed as a side project of The Allman Brothers Band by guitarist Warren Haynes (pictured) and bassist Allen Woody. Alynda Segarra and Hurray for the Riff Raff
Raised on doo-wop and Motown in the Bronx by her aunt, Alynda Segarra formed the folk-blues band Hurray for the Riff Raff in New Orleans in 2007. Alynda Segarra
This is a very different America: Alynda is of Puerto Rican descent, and although her mother was once Deputy Mayor of New York City, Segarra’s political ‘voice’ is through her songs. Alynda Segarra
She draws inspiration from Mexican-American cult favorite Rodriguez, and tells stories rooted in life on the streets of contemporary urban America. Jason Isbell and The 400 Unit
Jason Isbell’s alternative-country Southern-rock music pays tribute to his northern-Alabama roots. Jason Isbell
Winner of four Grammy Awards, Jason Isbell has lived in Nashville since 2011; his most recent eponymous album is The Nashville Sound. Jason Isbell and The 400 Unit
One of the melancholy tracks off that album: “If We Were Vampires”, was a little too real and reduced me to tears. This shot is from their second set on the Saturday (31March2018). Joe Louis Walker
San Francisco-born Joe Louis Walker is a master of blues guitar and blues history. Joe Louis Walker
An inductee to the Blues Hall of Fame and a four-time Blues Music Award winner, JLW is know for his virtuoso electric blues guitar. The California Honeydrops
One of my favourite finds from Bluesfest 2017 (Sound clip at: Classic Blues to Funky Beats) was the big, bold, and brassy California Honeydrops. Band leader and front man Lech Wierzynski was born in Warsaw, Poland, but started playing blues and jazz as a teenager in Washington D.C. before relocating to Oakland California. Mojo Tent : The New Power Generation
Part of the joy of attending Bluesfest is the atmosphere : … Full Moon : Mojo Tent
… although the crowds spill out of the tents, everyone is enveloped in the music and the atmosphere is always friendly. Leon Bridges on the Big Screen : Crossroads
Most days, the rain held off, and there were as many festival-goers on the grassy lawns enjoying the music as there were in the tents. Citizen Cope
Alternative rocker Clarence Greenwood, under the recording name of Citizen Cope, blends hip-hop with folk, soul and blues. Brendan Liu on Horn, Ziek McCarter, and Patrick Monaco Glynn on Keyboard
“Con Brio” or “With Spirit” became the seven-piece band’s philosophy: do it like you mean it or don’t do it at all. Ziek McCarter – Con Brio
When the layers come off, you know Ziek is ready to do a few back-flips across the stage. “With energy” indeed! Lech Wierzynski and Ziek McCarter
Another surprise: Lech Wierzynski from California Honeydrops (together with some of his horn section) joined Con Brio on stage. He and Ziek McCarter absolutely killed it on a few numbers towards the end of the set. (31March2018) Con Brio
Con Brio had three spots over the weekend; from what I saw, they brought the same level of energy to all of them. (02April2018) Nigerian novelist Chimamanda Adichie warns of the dangers of hearing only a single story about another person or country; certainly the breadth of performers from the United States that we enjoyed at this year’s Bluesfest treated us to a number of very different stories about the American experience.
And, they certainly kept us entertained.
Until next time,
Keep Smiling!
Pictures: 29March-2April2018
Posted in Australia,Music,performers,Portraits,USATags: Byron Bay Bluesfest,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,music,musician,performance,performers,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Bathing at Pura Tirta Empul
The temples of Bali are both ancient and living; at the Hindu water temple of Tirta Empul, Balinese bathe in the spring waters that have been funnelled through waterspouts since 962 A.D. Many years ago, my husband and I went to Bali for our honeymoon. On our first day there, we were separated from our money.
To say that we were “robbed” puts it much too harshly: we were attracted by friendly, smiling faces into a little blue van that purported to be going our way. I’d read about the blue taxis in my Lonely Planet, and the garrulous chatter of the men in the van distracted me from the fact that this blue vehicle didn’t have the requisite “Bali Taxi” written on it. When I was startled by the noise of our disposable camera falling to the floor, the men were also startled, and all of a sudden, they weren’t going our way after all. They hurriedly dropped us off at a motorcycle-taxi shelter and disappeared.
It was only when we went to pay the motorcycle drivers at the top of a long hill that we discovered that my husband’s wallet was empty. He was not well pleased – it was one of the few times I ever saw him lose his temper, but it was day-one of our marriage, so I did wonder what I had let myself in for!
Fortunately, we had divvied up the money that morning before setting out for the day. Half our cash was in my wallet back in our room, and he had a few dollars in his pocket with which to mollify the motorcycle drivers. The temple we had arrived at had no prescribed fee, so we set off to wander around.
Another young Balinese man seemed to have attached himself to us: he offered to show us the short-cut to the water-temple that I wanted to visit next. As he had witnessed our reaction to having no money, he couldn’t be looking for a tip, so I persuaded my husband that it was ok.
What felt like an eternity later (probably about fifteen minutes), we were bathed in wet, hot, air and surrounded by dense jungle on a path I could not make out. When our ‘guide’ shouted out to people I couldn’t see through the dense vegetation, I panicked and thought our number was up. We were going to be kidnaped, or murdered, and it was all my fault!! Never have I felt so frightened and so helpless.
Of course, a moment – or a lifetime – later, the jungle opened up, and we were looking down over the most wonderful fresh-spring stone-baths. Our guide probably wondered why we looked so very relieved as he showed us where to put our things. Warm water never felt so good!
The theft and the fright could not prevent us from appreciating what a rich and beautiful cultural experience Bali is. Last year, we returned to celebrate our anniversary.
I wanted to visit the same temples we had seen those years ago, and negotiated a trip with a guide we had met on the side of the road (Balinese are most persuasive!). We spent the day with him, a car, and a driver.
Join us at two uniquely Balinese sites.
Family at the Entry to Pura Tirta Empul
The springs at Tirta Empul Temple are said to have magical powers, and are therefore important to the Balinese. In the Baths
Bathers dress for modesty, and wear clothing or sarongs in the spring waters. Bathing Fun
As is the case in many Southeast Asian temples, ritual blends seamlessly with fun and frolic. Taking Turns
In the inner yard, people line up to bathe under each of the spouts, working from left to right across the pond. Many faithful have containers to take the healing waters home with them. Ritual Baths
Visitors pay a camera fee; many watch and photograph from outside the pools. Offerings
There are offerings of flowers and incense to the Gods – particularly Vishnu – everywhere. Bathing Tirta Empul Baths
These might have been the same baths we visited many years before, but it all looked so different! Guardian at the Entry
There is beautiful stone work everywhere. The whole complex was restored in the 1960s, but with the patina of moss on everything, it is hard to tell what is old and what isn’t. Priest in a Pavillion
Balinese Hindu priests light incense and ring bells as they recite prayers. Cutting Fruit
Fresh fruit is cut for offerings. Fish Pond
Up on the hill overlooking the temple complex is Istana Negara, an unspectacular single-story palace built by Soekarno, the first President of Indonesia. Fish Patterns Markets
Naturally, where people gather, there will be markets! People on the Steps
Just a kilometre down-river from Pura Tirta Empul is the entry to Gunung Kawi. Woman Crocheting
The people lining the pathway are either selling things or making things for sale. Rice Terraces
The walk down to the river is steep, and runs through typical verdant Balinese rice terraces. Gunung Kawi Royal Tombs
Across the river, we come to the amazing Gunung Kawi: … Gunung Kawi
… ten 7-metre-high (23 ft) candi (shrines) carved into the stone cliff along the riverbank. Bale Pelik at Gunung Kawi
Carved in the 11th century, the tombs are believed to be memorials in honour of King Anak Wungsu of the Udayana dynasty and his favourite queens. Water Fountain Terraces
What goes down must come up again… There are more than 100 steps down to the river – and the same number coming back up. Checking out the beautiful terraces gave us a good excuse to take a breather as we climbed back up to the parking lot. I had hoped to find the same temples we had visited on our honeymoon, but everything looked different. Surely monuments that had existed for centuries could not have changed so much!
Maybe I dreamed the whole thing? 
Until next time,
Happy Wandering!
Photos: 30January2017
Posted in Architecture,Bali,Indonesia,LandscapesTags: architecture,Bali,environmental portrait,hindu,hinduism,Indonesia,Photo Blog,temple,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,worship
Girl on the Steps
A young woman was well ahead of us on the walking path between Dhulikhel and Nagarkot in the Kathmandu Valley, Nepal, but I think her curiosity got the better of her, so she stopped walking until we reached her. It was still low season, so trekkers like us were still rare, and worth checking out! The dramatic landscapes of Nepal are stunning.
Even so, it is the people that make Nepalese trekking such a joy! Everywhere I have been in the country, people have have been friendly and welcoming, and most amenable to having their pictures taken.
A friend and I were hiking around the Eastern Rim of the Kathmandu Valley under the watchful eye of local guide, Angfula Sherpa. We were in Nepal ahead of a photo-workshop with photographers Gavin Gough and Jack Kurtz, so this was our chance to acclimatise to the country.
Even though the four day trek is rated as “easy”, thanks to ageing joints and atrophying muscles, I was finding it – especially the up-hills (of which there are many!) – hard work. On our third morning, I was still tired from the hills and steps from the day before (see: A Thousand Steps). Plus, I had a glorious view from my Dhulikhel Lodge Resort balcony and was enjoying watching the sunrise over the surrounding mountains.
So, it was with some real reluctance that I packed my bags and set off again – uphill.
For every path in Nepal seems to be uphill!
Morning over the Mountains at Dhulikhel
The sun rose gently over the mists and mountains that surround Dhulikhel. Thanks to the weather, we didn’t have the clearest view of the soaring surrounding Himalayan peaks, but it was still a lovely spot. Woman and a Goat
As the road – and then dusty walking track – led us up and out of Dhulikhel towards Opi, the people along the route were a welcome distraction, and a good excuse to stop for rest. Hindu Shrine
At the top of one rise, we came across a small Hindu shrine, … Hindu Schoolboys
… with its own small group of student/novice priests. Paths into the Hills
We leave the temple behind us and follow the dirt path … Terraced Hills
… as it leads off and around the foothills. Woman in a Blanket
All along the trails, we can see the effects of the 2015 earthquake. A woman in a blanket sits in the shade of a pile of new bricks, while behind her we can see the reinforcing steel rebar that is now placed much more closely to protect new buildings from further earthquakes. Woman in Pink
I love the gentle wisdom in people’s faces – and their willingness to engage with us and to be photographed. Family Upstairs
A mother and her children come out of their house to greet us and watch our passing. Double-Story House
These double-story brick homes, where the upstairs is mostly grain and food storage, accessible by an internal ladder or staircase, are pretty typical in the Kathmandu Valley and foothills. Terraced Hills
The terraced hills seem to go on forever. Women on the Hill Girl in a Cardboard Hat
I’m pretty she this young girl wasn’t meant to look like a chivalrous Knight of the Round Table; just a coincidence of the colours of her dress, and the shape of her cardboard hat …
She did remind me, however, how creative and imaginative children can be even when they have very few toys and/or resources. Smiling Girl in Pink Two Young Friends Grannie in her Garden Tin Shed on a Hill
Too many people are still managing with make-shift houses, in spite of the weather extremes in Nepal’s mountains and hills. Young Woman
Scarlet lips and lined eyes – makeup is an every-day thing among young Nepali women. Terraced Hills
After three hours walking, the terraced hills still stretch out in all directions. On the Ridge
We seem to have left all the small settlements behind as we finally start making our way downhill … Angfula on the Ridge
… with our guide striding out in front. Path into the Distance
The dirt track seems to go on forever … Through the Trees
… as we wind through pine forests and past more terraced hills. Nepali Set Meal
It was late when we finally sat down to eat – but dinner was well worth waiting for! Our dal bhat (spicy lentil soup and rice), roti, curried vegetables and a seasoned mushroom dish, was topped off with an elaborate bird carved from apple. It was a long day, but an enjoyable one. I felt like I was finally getting into my stride!
As the sun fell, the temperature turned cold. We got the guesthouse to rustle up some hot-water bottles, and I slept soundly, dreaming of terraced hills.
 Until next time,
Namaste!
Pictures: 8March2017
Posted in environmental portrait,Landscapes,Nepal,TravelTags: environmental portrait,environmental portraits,Kathmandu Valley,landscape,Nepal,Photo Blog,Religious Practice,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
Wooden Dolls In Hungarian Folk Costumes
Folk art and trinkets are among the many things on sale at the Central Market in Budapest. I love markets!
Any regular reader of these “pages” knows that when I travel, I visit local markets whenever I can. Markets give visitors a wonderful insight into the daily life of the people in a country, and – depending on their light and layout – present an idiosyncratic a photographic challenge.
On a visit to Budapest in Hungary with my husband, I was thrilled to have the chance to spend time in the Great Market Hall on Fővám Square. We were staying on boat docked on the Danube River, and had some time free to wander between visiting the hilltop fortress in old Buda (see: From the Danube to Buda Castle), and reconnecting with long lost relatives.
The market – the largest and oldest indoor market in Budapest, Hungary – was the dream of the first mayor of Budapest, Károly Kamermayer. Originally designed and built by Hungarian architect and academic, Samu Pecz (1854 – 1922), the market opened in 1897, and soon became an important import-export centre. “In the early days an aisle for wagons ran through the center, with retailers on the east side and wholesalers on the west.”
The market was badly damaged during World War II, and had to be closed for several years. Extensive restoration in the 1990s, however, brought it back to its former glory. The vast three-level hall is light and airy, with a high roof held aloft by elegant steel beams and light pouring in through a huge patchwork of latticed windows. The three floors of stalls, shops and services are popular with tourists and locals alike.
Wandering around there was a treat!
Nagyvásárcsarnok – Great Market Hall
The entrance gate to Budapest’s largest and oldest indoor has an ornate, neo-gothic facade. Inside the Nagyvásárcsarnok (Central Market)
The market was badly damaged during World War II, but was extensively restored in the 1990s. Traditional Hungarian Food and Drink “Can I Help You?”
Locals chat with the counter-staff as they do their daily shopping. Counter Service Service with a Smile
There is a wide range of goods on offer; my husband couldn’t see past the poppy-seed rolls in the counter window. Flower Chocolate
I was fascinated by the exotic chocolates with fruit and edible flowers embedded in them. Fresh Vegetables Green Grocer and his Fruit Fresh Grocery
Garlic and chilis hang neatly around grocer’s stalls. Vegetable Bins Tomatoes Pigs’ Trotters and Tripe Tourists inside the Market Cold Cuts Meat Counter Kolbász
Sausage, in all its variety, is central to Hungarian diet. Goat’s Head at the Butchers’
Clearly the butchers at the Central Market have a bizarre sense of humour. Dried Fruit Dried Nuts Looking over the Hall
From the upstairs, where the bars, coffee-shops and eateries are, you can look down over the stalls in the spacious hall. Shopping for Wooden Trinkets
There are plenty of souvenirs for tourists upstairs, as well, … Traditional Embroidery
… although, rumour has it that most of these “traditional” goods are actually made in China. Cotton, Linen and Lace
If you look hard, you can find some nice pieces. Markets are also a wonderful source of inspiration: we picked up colourful packets of paprika – perfect for Hungarian goulash – to take home with us as little gifts for friends and neighbours.
 They provide a colourful and fragrant reminder of an afternoon well spent!
Until next time,
Happy Shopping!
Pictures: 22August2014
Posted in Europe,Every Day Life,Hungary,TravelTags: architecture,arts and crafts,environmental portraits,everyday life,food,market,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
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