Peyto Lake deserves its reputation as a highlight along the magnificent Icefields Parkway through Canada’sUNESCO-listedRocky Mountains. But the whole road is a joy.
Highway 93 runs 233 kilometers (143 miles) north-south between Jasper in the Jasper National Park and Lake Louise in Banff National Park. In theory, it takes less than three hours driving time, but you have to factor in ‘stopping time’: you are travelling through continuous scenery.
I was driving north from Lake Louise, and in my first two hours, I had covered less than 40 kilometres (25 miles) (see: Bow Lake, the Icefields Parkway)! But, I had the information map I had picked up at the Park’s Office, and I had my priorities set.
Peyto Lake was high on my list.
There is nothing quite like a glacier-fed lake to take your breath away. Of course, the walk up to the vantage point over Peyto Lake had already left me breathless! Although I only spent about 45 minutes there, and according to my AllTrails app, I only gained 104 m (341 ft) in elevation, the viewing platform sits at 2,000 meters (6,561 feet). So, I’ll blame the altitude.
Less than half an hour later, I found myself stopping again: this time just for a brief, admiring look over Waterfowl Lakes.
Naturally, I had to walk up to the Athabasca Glacier, one of the six toes ‘toes’ – and the most accessible – of the Columbia Icefield, located just inside Jasper National Park. The walk up to the glacier is lined with informative sign-boards; the easy, gravelly pathway to the shrinking ice gets longer every year as the ice pack recedes.
Join me for just a few of the sights along the Icefields Parkway.
Driving North on Highway 93N Every section of road brings new mountain vistas into view through the car windows. (iPhone12Pro)
The Path Tall Douglas fir trees (Pseudotsuga menziesii) line the cement path that leads from the Peyto Lake car park up to the platform at the first viewing point over the valley.
Viewing Platform The mountains rise high around the visitors at the first overlook.
Peyto Lake Below This valley was carved out by the Peyto Glacier which once filled it. The remaining glacier is a mere tongue of the larger Wapta Icefield, which sits high in the mountains south of here.
View over Peyto Lake The lake is named for Bill Peyto, a pioneer, mountain guide, and early Banff National Park warden.
Mountains around Peyto Lake Peyto Peak marks the north end of the Wapta Icefield; you can see the ice pack that partially covers Mount Jimmy Simpson behind it.
Pathways Up The tracks beyond the first lookout are mostly dirt: some were quite muddy and slippery after the recent snows and rains.
Terminal Moraine: Peyto Lake Glaciers push, carry, and deposit large quantities of ground rock with them. The stones get deposited at the fronts and sides of the moving ice packs. It is the tiny particles of suspended pulverised rock that give glacial lakes their extraordinary colour.
People on the Lookout The upper viewpoint is much less formal than the lower overlook. (iPhone12Pro)
Golden-Mantled Ground Squirrel – Callospermophilus Lateralis We had company on the rocks!
Peyto Lake from the Upper Viewpoint Even under a rain-filled sky, the colours really are extraordinary. I took one last shot before walking back down the hill to my car.
On the Highway The next leg of the drive is as spectacular as the others; … (iPhone12Pro)
Waterfowl Lakes … but I only drive ten minutes before I feel the need to pull over again – at a viewpoint over Waterfowl Lakes.
Mount Chephren behind Waterfowl Lake
American Black Bear – Ursus Americanus Finally! My first bear.
Saskatchewan River Crossing Not open in the winter months, this truck-stop offers virtually the only services along the parkway. From here, you can drive east out of the mountains to Red Deer, Alberta. (iPhone12Pro)
On the Parkway I am still heading north – and I haven’t yet hit the halfway mark! (iPhone12Pro)
Walk Bridge : Athabasca Glacier The Columbia Icefield, which feeds six major glaciers, is the largest icefield in the Rocky Mountains, and worthy of a trip on its own. I, however, was running out of daylight. I ignored the Glacier Discovery Centre, and went directly to the walk that leads to the receding edge of the most accessible ‘toe’, the Athabasca Glacier.
Walkers on the Path Unless you are on a guided trip, you are not allowed on the actual ice. But it is a pleasant 2 km (1.2 mi) walk out-and-back to the glacier’s edge. There are plenty of information sign boards along the way.
Athabasca Glacier It doesn’t look like it from here, but the ice pack is between 90–300 metres (300–980 ft) thick. The temperature drops, as what is called a katabatic wind blows downhill off the ice. (iPhone12Pro)
Waters off the Glacier Even though I know in my head that the ice fields are melting (and markers along the path show how far this one had receded), I’m still startled by the volume of water that races downhill to feed the Athabasca River.
Snow Shelf The rocks left behind by the advance and retreat of glaciers over time look like slag heaps of pulverised particles.
Downhill from the Athabasca Glacier
Tangle Creek Falls Back on the road, I couldn’t resist another quick photo-stop to admire another pretty waterfall.
Sunwapta River Valley There were plenty more stops on offer, but the light would fail soon, and I was getting hungry! Fortunately, I had visited this section of the road before. (see: Close Encounters of the Wild Kind). (iPhone12Pro)
Jasper Carpark In the last light of the day, a rainbow shone over the railway line running through Jasper. (iPhone12Pro)
The rains that had followed me in the morning returned as I found some dinner – but I was very lucky that the downpours had held off for most of my drive.
The road truly deserves it reputation as one of the world’s top drives – and given all the spots I hadn’t stopped, I was already determined to drive it again!
The Erechtheion and Athens The beautifully elegant Caryatids, the six maidens of Karyai, stand watch over the Acropolis and the sprawling city beneath it. Built between 421 and 406 BCE, the Erechtheion was a temple primarily dedicated to the goddess Athena.
It was hardly off the beaten path, but is one of those ‘once in a lifetime’ experiences that was on my list: the Acropolis, that rocky outcrop rising 150 m (490 ft) above sea level overlooking Athens, and the Parthenon, the ancient religious temple built for the Greek goddess Athena at the top.
Mythical home of the Greek gods – familiar to me since childhood – the Acropolis is believed to have had earthly inhabitants since the Early Neolithic period (6th millennium BC). The Parthenon that stands in ruins on the flat mountain top was originally built between 447 and 432 BCE.
In its day, the Parthenon‘was the largest and most lavish temple the Greek mainland had ever seen.’ Much of what we see today, however, has been reconstructed and/or renovated over time. During their rule of the city, the Ottomans used the site as a munitions dump. In the course of their assault on the city in 1687, the Venetians bombarded the site with cannonballs: the ammunition stores exploded, resulting in hundreds of deaths and extensive structural damage. In the 1820s, the Acropolis was the middle of the combat zone between the Greek and Turks, and the Turkish Army removed the lead-coated iron clamps which held the marble blocks together to make bullets. By the 1800s, the site was in ruins, and over the following years was pilfered by looters and archaeological collectors.
Still, there is enough left to allow us to appreciate the magnificent design and craftsmanship that went into the ancient structures left on the hill.
I arrived in Athens the night before, after a busy week in Crete (see: Weekly Wanders – Crete). I had booked myself onto a small-group tour around the Greek mainland for this portion of the trip, and was thrilled to discover that the rooftop-restaurant in my rather plush hotel afforded me a wonderful view over the sprawling city and the Acropolis at its heart.
Join me for a walk up to the home of the Gods:
Sunrise and Moon over the Parthenon My rooftop breakfast balcony in Athens allowed me a stunning morning view. As if that wasn’t Greek enough, while I was enjoying my orange juice, the man at the table two inches from mine lit up a foul-smelling cigarette, as if to remind me where I was!
Street Musician From the car and bus parking, it is a fair walk up the hill – but we were kept entertained.
Temple of Athena Nike Continuing our slow walk up the hill, we can see the temple dedicated to Athena and Nike, the goddess of victory. Built around 420 BCE, is the earliest fully Ionic temple on the hill.
Odeon of Herodes Atticus Built by the later Romans, the Herodion (or Herodeion) is a stone theatre dating to 161 CE.
Philopappos Monument The remains of an ancient Greek mausoleum and monument, built between 114 and 116 CE, stands on a neighbouring hill.
Steps into the Parthenon The walk continues upward …
Towards the Sun … and the morning sun greets us as we prepare to enter the Parthenon.
Columns Rising
Over Athens Once we are on the hill top, the city – with its Christian Orthodox cathedrals in every quadrant – stretches out below us.
The Parthenon The Parthenon is huge – but in considerable disrepair. Restoration efforts in earlier years have often led to further structural damage. The building style is Doric, which I vaguely remember from art classes as being demonstrated in the columns with their simple round capitals, and the absence of bases.
Parthenon Roof Frieze The remaining sculptural decorations are beautiful examples of early Greek sculpture.
The Parthenon from the Hill
Another Church Below
Athens and Lycabettus Hill To our north-east, Mount Lycabettus (Lycabettos, Lykabettos or Lykavittos), the highest hill in Athens, rises 227 meters (909 feet) above sea level.
Fallen Capital The whole site is a mix of periods. Corinthian capitals, with their decorations of stylized acanthus leaves, lie tumbed on the ground.
The Erechtheion The Ionic-style Erechtheion, made to house the statue of Athena Polias, was my favourite.
Tourist Shot at the Erechtheion Unlike most classical Greek architecture, it is asymmetrical in shape.
Ionic Capital on a Column – the Erechtheion
The Erechtheion It’s an elegant little building.
The Porch of the Maidens Best of all, the Erechtheion is home to the wonderful Caryatids. These are replicas: five originals are in the Acropolis Museum and one remains in the British Museum.
Columns of the Parthenon
The Theatre of Dionysus An ancient Greek theatre is nestled into the south slope of the Acropolis.
The Agora Below us, the Temple of Hephaestus stands on top of a smaller hill that houses the ancient Agora of Athens.
It was still mid-morning, but already the autumn day was heating up, and the hill was getting busy.
It was time to make our way back down from the Acropolis and explore some of the other marvels the city of Athens has to offer.
Worker in the Paper Frames Making paper by hand is labour intensive – but the Gurung people here in the Annapurna mountains of Nepal are still happy to take time out to smile at tired trekkers.
It was a bittersweet feeling: this was our last day of trekking in the magnificent Annapurna mountains of Nepal.
Every step of this “Easy” Poon Hill Trek had reminded me that I’m not as young as I once was. But, the accommodation was vastly improved compared with my first visit to this region many years before, when I had stayed in drafty rooms without the benefits of heat, electricity, or running water.
And, this last day was mostly downhill!
I love those mountains – and their welcoming (and hardy!) people. When photographer Gavin Gough suggested a post-Kathmandu Valley photographic-workshop walk to Poon Hill, I jumped at the chance. Much of that hike was revisiting the paths I had walked on the when doing an Annapurna Sanctuary trek some 16 years prior (see: Heaven and Hard Work).
I always find that I get into my rhythm just as a walk is nearing the end!
We set out that spring morning from Ghandruk, with mists all around blocking out any hopes of of a last sighting of the magnificent Annapurnas. Stopping to check out local cottage crafts, and to chat with locals, we worked our way down the mountainside at a comfortable pace towards our end point in Nayapul.
Ponies on the Cobbles As we leave the mountain town of Ghandruk, we share the stone path with trains of dainty pack animals. Mists drift out all around us.
“Annapurna Lokta Paper and Handicraft Factory” Frames of newly-made paper are stretched out below us on the mountainside.
Paper on a Frame We invite ourselves into the workshop, …
Stretching Paper … and learn how hand made paper is made.
Bark Drying Daphne bholua, the Nepalese paper plant, is a high-altitude flowering shrub with strong, durable fibres in the bark. This bark produces beautiful paper – and can also be twisted into rope.
Straining Paper When the shredded bark is well soaked, it is strained on large frames.
Woman in Red
Women at Work A surprising number of people are busy at work – and they all seem cheerful and happy to be there.
Ponies on a Hill Decorated pack-ponies stand patiently on the hillside, waiting for their next job.
School Pupils As I pass a group of youngsters heading uphill to school, I marvel at how tidy they look in these rustic surrounds.
Terraced Hills As we descend in altitude, the fields look more productive.
“Real Hand Made Paper Shop” A little further down the hill, tables are laden with paper products for sale.
Paper Products I picked up several fabric-covered notebooks for stocking-stuffers.
Lone Tree on the Terraces The mists hang on the surrounding hills – but at least the rain holds off, and we have a beautiful, sunny day for our last walk.
Buffalo (Bubalus Bubalis) on the Terraces Half of Nepal’s milk and over one-third of the country’s meat comes from Asian water buffalos.
Angry Bird T-Shirt Popular culture knows no boundaries!
The Lads Such gorgeous chubby cheeks!
Women in the Hills Even passersby take time out to smile for me and the camera.
Foggy Terraces Mist still clings to the terraces running down to the winding Modi Khola in the river valley below.
Peace! A young girl welcomes us to a balcony restaurant.
Girl in Pink
Woman on the Balcony Mum is nearby – managing the kitchen.
“Nice Wind Place” A rough, drafty shack on the hill reminds me a bit of how trekker huts were in the last time I was here!
Chickens on the Steps As we drop down the hillside, our surrounds become more ‘rural’ …
Girl in a Grocery Store … and there are more conveniences and people around.
Grocer’s Daughter
Gray Haired Woman Traditional jewellery often includes ornate golden nose rings and earrings.
Collecting Greens All around us, people are hard at work in the fields, or collecting animal food from the side of the track.
Smiling Woman with a Bindi Red represents love, honour, and prosperity, and is a therefore popular choice for clothing. It is also the colour of the bindis worn by many married woman.
Man in a Dhaka Topi These popular woven hats are part of the Nepalese national dress.
And the Rivers Keep Running! The Modi Khola, a snow-fed river starting high in the Annapurna Mountains, is racing flat alongside us: a sign that we have reached the valley floor.
Our Guys We make a last stop in Birethanti …
The Last River Crossing … before crossing the Modi Khola towards Nayapul, where cars will meet us.
We arrived back at nearby Pokhara with a feeling of fatigue – and a huge sense of accomplishment.
Here Comes the Sun! The chance of a sunrise in the Himalaya is worth getting up for!
Daybreak offers hope, a sense of renewal.
And, a sunrise in the mountains makes me feel like anything is possible.
I’m not a morning person – but every so often I can be dragged out of bed for a special sunrise (eg: At the Top of the World). I certainly wasn’t going to miss my chance at another one in the Himalaya!
I was staying in Rishikesh, in the foothills of the mountains, practicing yoga in the 35°C (95°F) days and failing to sleep on hot, muggy nights. So, an early morning sojourn into surrounding hills where it might actually be a bit cooler was an attractive offer.
We set out at 4am for the winding drive up to the top of a hill in nearby Terhi Garwal. It was still dark when we parked, and started up the 80 steps to the Kunjapuri Devi Temple, which sits at 1,676 metres (5499 feet) on Kunjapuri Hill. The temple is known for its panoramic views over the nearby snow-capped mountains.
The pantheon of Hindu Gods and their complex histories always leaves me a bit muddled, but it is said that part of the immolated body of Sati, an incarnation of the Goddess Parvati, wife of Lord Shiva, fell to the earth at this spot.
Kunjapuri Devi Temple is dedicated to the Goddess Durga, the Divine Mother. Durga in Sanskrit means fortress, or “the invincible”; Durga is the most ferocious female Hindu deity. The temple is of immense importance to Hindu pilgrims and worshipers – especially during Navaratri, Durga’s ten-day festival (see: Haridwar Rishikesh Tourism).
But, like other foreigners and many of the locals, we were there primarily for the sunrise.
Lights over Rishikesh It was 5am: cool and dark, when we arrived at the top of the hill. We paused to admire Rishikesh, far below. (iPhone12Pro)
Stairs I was going to get my morning exercise! Apparently there are 80 steps up to the temple; I didn’t count them – I was busy trying to breathe. (iPhone12Pro)
The Maggi Point Restaurant Near the top of the staircase, a shop sells temple offerings, snacks including pots of Maggi noodles, and – most importantly – masala chai. (ISO 6400, 28 mm, f/2.8, 1/200 sec)
The Shopkeeper This was my first chance to play with my new mirrorless cameras – I was interested to see what they could do in low light. (ISO 64,000, 185 mm, f/2.8, 1/400 sec)
Our Guide Our escort from the Yoga school wanted to get in on the act! (ISO 64,000, 197 mm, f/2.8, 1/400 sec)
Predawn in the Himalaya It wasn’t yet 5.30am when we got to the top of the hill; the light was just sneaking over the horizon.
The Gods While waiting for the skies to lighten a bit, I explore the temple …
Prayers … where the faithful are already at prayer.
Orange on the Horizon A section of sky takes on orange hues …
Blue Hills … and the hills roll off into the distance. (iPhone12Pro)
“Rome 3,642 – Тokyo 3,350” (iPhone12Pro)
Kunjapuri Temple Story Aversion of the story behind the the temple’s origin is on a plaque near the viewing decks.
Green Hills and Popcorn Clouds (iPhone12Pro)
Almost Abstract: Foliage against Blue Hills
Layered Blue Hills and a Soft Pink Sky The light and colours change from one minute to the next.
Sunrise At just after 6am, the sun breaks over the horizon and the sky changes colour again.
Watching Sunrise There is a small crowd enjoying the morning views.
Enjoying Sunrise
Bells in the Temple Before entering a temple, it is customary to ring a bell: this alerts the gods to your presence, and helps focus your mind.
Priest in the Temple In an inner sanctum, a temple priest is taking offerings and dispensing blessings.
The Mountains from the Temple Morning has broken – I take a last look over the Himalaya …
Stairs Down … before walking back down the stairs to our waiting car.
The Ganges We stopped to admire Rishikesh in the valley below before driving back down the hill.
It was a lovely way to start the day – and I have enjoyed reflecting on it as we are about to start a new year.
A Heritage-Listed View ‘Taronga’is a local Aboriginal word meaning “beautiful view”. The view over the giraffe enclosure at Taronga Zoo and across Sydney Harbour, Australia, is indeed beautiful – and has actually been heritage-listed .
The only thing better than a day at a zoo is a day at the zoo with young children.
Add trips across Sydney Harbour on a summer day, and the whole experience is hard to beat.
Christmas was fast approaching, and my young grandchildren were visiting with their parents. My husband and I decided that rather than buying ‘things’, we would ‘gift’ us all a day at the unbeatable Taronga Zoo (see: A Tale of Two Tarongas).
The historic Taronga Zoo was originally opened in 1916 in the Sydney suburb of Mosman, on the northern shores of Sydney Harbour. While it is a long drive from anywhere, using the city’s public transport ferry network makes getting there half the fun – especially in good weather. From Circular Quay in Sydney’s Central Business District, the iconic Sydney Ferries get you across the harbour in only 12 minutes.
The views are included in the price!
Join us at the zoo.
Sydney Harbour The views over Sydney Harbour are wonderful from the ferries that criss-cross the waters.
A Sydney Ferry on the Harbour The Sydney Ferries operate nine different classes of vessels; this is one of the First Fleet Class – true Sydney icons.
Another Sydney Icon On Bennelong Point in the harbour, the renowned Sydney Opera House sits in front of the city centre.
Over the Elephants At the ferry dock, a gondola lift takes visitors up to the zoo; …
Glee … everyone is excited to see the animals below.
Wompoo Fruit-Dove – Ptilinopus Magnificus Our first stop was at an aviary where we were enclosed with a multitude of birds, including this fat native of eastern Australia and neighbouring New Guinea.
Australian White Ibis – Threskiornis Molucca Unlike the shy doves, the local ibis variant has adapted so well to the the growing cities that it affectionately known as the ‘[rubbish] bin chicken’.
Australian Brush-Turkey – Alectura Lathami Scrub turkeys are commonly seen scrabbling on the ground or building their mounds on Australia’s east coast – well north of where I live.
Ring-Tailed Lemur – Lemur Catta Madagascar is on my bucket list. In the meantime, the lemur enclosure provides close encounters with these endangered primates.
The Old Elephant House Taronga Zoo first opened in 1916, and some of the buildings bear testimony to these earlier times. Some of the original enclosures – like the old elephant house – remind us how zoos used to be.
Looking Out Modeled on the buildings of Northern India, the old elephant house certainly had charm.
Tasmanian Devil – Sarcophilus Harrisii I always find Tasmanian devils a challenge to photograph: they have very quick and erratic movements.
Interacting with the Devil Modern zoos have multiple viewing points; I love how the glass wall allows children close – but safe – contact with different animals.
Meerkat – Suricata Suricatta Cuteness overload! I could watch these little mongooses all day.
Seal Theatre We watched our timing, and made it to poolside …
Performing Seal … in time to watch the seals work for their dinner.
Gorilla Feeding Another zoo favourite are the gorillas; …
Silverback … to keep the animals alert and mentally engaged, their food is placed in puzzle boxes.
Kookaburra – Dacelo Australian natives hang around in the trees.
Asian Elephant – Elephas Maximus In the plain enclosure we saw from the gondola, the Asian elephants gather with their young.
Gondola with a View Overhead, the gondolas continue to run.
Spoonbill on the Koi Pond
“Rustic Bridge” Opened in 1915, this bridge was one of Taronga’s earliest landscape features. Designed as a romantic pathway across a natural gully, it was reminiscent of Italian grottoes.
Eagle and Handler It is always thrilling to watch raptors go through their paces.
Tiger Reflections Critically endangered Sumatran tigers (panthera tigris sondaica) are housed in the relatively new Tiger Trek precinct.
Tiger, Tiger! Even at a distance, they are magnificent.
On the Croc The little one finds a life-size saltwater crocodile, and makes friends.
Iguana Inside Reptile World, a huge range of living reptiles, large and small, are on display.
… and Back Again. The short trip back across Sydney Harbour is a beautiful end to a lovely day out.
Being with young children in a zoo which promotes education and conservation for the future is a great way to spend a summer day – a true gift to us all.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
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