15th century Venetian Bourtzi Castle Fortress in Nafplio Harbour, Greece

Old and New
Every nook and cranny in Greece is layered in history. For example: in the middle of Nafplio Harbour there is a beautiful, historic castle – Bourtzi Castle Fortress – built by the Venetians between 1471 and 1473. On ancient Mount Arachnaion in the background, controversial wind turbines generate energy for the Peloponnese region.

I loved everything about Greece.

I love Greek coffee and food. I loved the landscape and the architecture, and the history layered within it all. I loved how the place names were both exotic and vaguely familiar from long-forgotten school lessons.

And, I loved the variety that was in every day of the small-group tour I took part in on the mainland.

In just one morning on the Peloponnese Peninsula, we drove through the spectacular mountains and charming villages between Dimitsana (see: Mountain Villages and Hidden Monasteries) and Nafplion (Nafplio), where we visited a family run distillery to learn about the making of ouzo, that anise-infused quintessentially Greek liquor. An alcohol taste-testing at ten in the morning is a risky business: I bought more than one bottle!

We were given a few free hours to explore the sites, streets, shops, and eateries of Nafplio, a delightful seaside town that was once the capital of Greece. Then, back in our bus to continue across the Peloponnese to ancient Epidaurus (Epidavros), the most famous healing centre of the Ancient Greek and Roman world. There, we had a locally guided tour of the museum and the magnificent UNESCO-listed third-century theatre.

Our last stop of the day before continuing to Athens was at the Corinth Canal. First conceived of in the 7th century BCE, and finally completed and opened in 1893, this 6.4 km (4.0 mile) cleft through the Isthmus of Corinth is interesting, but too narrow to be of much practical value today.

Do join me:

Morning view of Dimitsana from the En Dimitsani Guest House, Greece

Morning in Dimitsana
I was enchanted by the mountain village of Dimitsana: the view from my balcony was mesmerising. (iPhone12Pro)

Orthodox church at the Argos crossroads through a bus windscreen, Greece

Scenes from a Bus : Argos Crossroads
Our morning trip takes us through dramatic mountains and attractive villages. (iPhone12Pro)

Yiannis Karonis at the Karonis Distilleries, Nafplio, Greece

The Owner of the Karonis Distillery
Just outside of Nafplio, fifth-generation distiller Yiannis Karonis welcomes us to his property. He introduces us to the process of distilling alcohol from grapes in large copper vats, …

Yiannis Karonis with some dried angelica, Karonis Distilleries, Nafplio, Greece

Dried Angelica
… and shows us some of the fruits, herbs, and spices that go into the making of ouzo, tsipouro (raki), and specialty Greek liqueurs.

Yiannis Karonis in the Karonis Distillery Museum, Nafplio Greece

In the Karonis Distillery Museum
The family-owned Karonis Distillery first opened in 1869 – and has collected some historic memorabilia along the way.

Complex antique safe keys, Karonis Distilleries, Nafplio, Greece

Keys to the Safe
I love these old keys – they have such character!

Bell tower of the Orthodox Church of Panagia, Nafplio, Greece

Bell Tower
After the Venetian Bourtzi Castle Fortress in Nafplio Harbour, my first sighting in the city itself was the bell tower of the Orthodox Church of Panagia. In Medieval and Modern Greek, Panagia is one of the affectionate titles for Mary; this church is devoted to the Presentation of Virgin Mary. The church itself dates the the 15th century, and was significantly changed during the second Venetian occupation (around 1700), the bell tower was added in 1907.

Statue of King Otto, Nafplio

Statue of King Otto
King Otto was a young Bavarian Prince who reigned over the newly-independent Kingdom of Greece from 1832 until he was deposed in 1862. This bronze statue in Nafplio’s Trion Navarchon Square was created by Florinian artist Nikolaos Dogoulis (1937 – 2013).

Palamidi Fortress atop a hill in Nafplio, Greece.

Palamidi Fortress
Built by the Venetians between 1711 and 1714, this baroque fort has commanding views over the Argolic Gulf, the city of Nafplio, and the surrounding countryside. In spite of that, it was captured by the Ottomans in 1715.

Weathered wooden doors, Nafplio, Gree

Old Doorway
Some of the buildings around town are showing their age.

Sculpted bust of an Orthodox Archimandrite, Nafplio, Greece

Archimandrite Christoforos Kokinis
You are never far from a reminder of the Orthodox faith. An archimandrite is the superior of a large monastery or group of monasteries.

Three-story house fronts, Náfplion Greece.

Nafplion Housefronts

Narrow Kokkinou Lane, Nafplio Greece

Pensiones
The cobbled streets and laneways are a delight to wander.

Looking up the Steps on Kokkinou, Nafplio Greece

Kokkinou Steps
It is easy to get your exercise!

Stone Ottoman fountain, Nafplio Greece

Ottoman Fountain
There is a surprise around every corner.

Restaurant tables in a walking street, Nafplio Greece.

Colourful Cloths
The streets are lined with cheerful restaurants, …

Painted stylised Greek horse ornament, Nafplio store, Greece

Stylised Ancient Greek Horse
… clothing boutiques, and arts and craft stores.

Greek coffee pot and cup on a table, Nafplio Greece

Coffee Pot
I stopped in a gorgeous jewellery boutique and bought myself a pair of earrings inscribed with a Greek love poem in elegant calligraphy. Then, it was definitely time for a Greek coffee and some lunch. (iPhone12Pro)

A plate of freshly prepared Greek food, Sokaki Cafe Nafplio, Greece

A Deconstructed Falafel with Bulgur Sokaki (“Back Alley”)
Fresh and delicious! (iPhone12Pro)

Waterfront Musings
The waterfront is serene in the midday sun; Bourtzi Castle floats off on the other side of the harbour. (iPhone12Pro)

Portrait: blond Greek woman, Epidaurus.

Local Guide
Just half an hour later, we were on the other side of the peninsula at Epidaurus to meet our local guide.

Medicinal Scripts and Potions in Ancient Greek
UNESCO touts the Sanctuary of Asklepios at Epidaurus as a testament to the healing cults of the Ancient World and the turning-point in terms of emergence of scientific medicine. The stone tablets recovered around the site are effectively medicinal treatment plans. (iPhone12Pro)

Detail: portions of Greek statues showing the beautifully draped fabric, The Archaeological Museum of Epidaurus, Greece

Draping Fabric in Marble
The Archaeological Museum of Epidaurus is one of the oldest museums of ancient Greek architecture. I was allowed my phone inside, but not my cameras. (iPhone12Pro)

Metal medical tools in a glass case, Sanctuary of Asklepiosat at Epidaurus, Greece

Metal Tools
Originally, the site had major religious importance in the cult of Asclepius. Over time, practitioners began using herbs, cleansing rituals, and other techniques that transformed treatments from divine to more scientific. (iPhone12Pro)

Looking up the Corinth Canal, Greece.

The Corinth Canal
Our last stop on the Peloponnese was at the rather impressive canal that joins the Gulf of Corinth in the Ionian Sea with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea.

From ouzo to earrings, from mountain villages to coastal cities, from modern boutiques and trendy cafés to ancient healing spas … Talk about variety!

Text: Happy TravelsUntil next time,

Happy Travels!

Photos: 17September2022

Rooftop of the heritage Yass Valley Courthouse over a colourful hedge, NSW Australia

Stop and Smell the Flowers
Yass is a charming heritage town south-west of Sydney on the Hume Highway. I’d driven past or through many times – but had never actually stopped! (iPhone6)

Do you find you tend to ignore your own backyard?

I often do. I’ll go to great lengths and distances to visit places afar, while making little time for sights closer to home.

But, away from the more-populated coast, country New South Wales (like country Queensland) has some attractive old towns, with interesting histories, and main streets lined with old colonial and federation architecture.

Take Yass, for example. First settled by Europeans in 1830, this charming sheep-farming community boasts a number of well-preserved 19th-century heritage buildings. Sitting where it does, 280 km (174 mi) south-west of Sydney on the Hume Highway, it was on our path if ever we drove from Sydney to Melbourne. We’d remark on the signposts – the name amused my children – as we skirted it enroute to Canberra or the Snowy Mountains.

Then, finally, it landed more squarely on my path. We were travelling south from the Hunter Valley and had appointments in Canberra. An overnight stop in Yass made sense.

And when we took our walk in the morning, we were rewarded.

Later that same day, on our way home to the Far South Coast, we stopped for a photo-walk in the equally-historic town of Bungendore on the other side of Canberra. Laid out in a Georgian-influenced grid by colonial government surveyor James Larmer in 1837, this small town on the Kings Highway near Lake George grew after the railway arrived in early 1885.

I’d been through Bungendore many times when taking the alternate route between Sydney and the Snowy Mountains. I loved stopping there for coffee and a visit to the most-excellent Wood Works shop in the centre of town, but had never explored further.

I couldn’t find much information about some of the buildings in town, but we enjoy our unstructured walk-about.

Both towns were a delight and well worth visiting.

Front view of the Yass Valley Courthouse, NSW Australia

Yass Valley Courthouse
Designed by Scotsman James Barnet, who was the serving Colonial Architect for Colonial New South Wales (1862 – 1890), this building opened in 1880, replacing an earlier 1847 structure. (iPhone6)

National Australia Bank building, Yass, NSW Australia.

National Australia Bank
Surveyor and architect John Frederick Hilly designed a number of churches and public buildings in Sydney. This bank building – originally belonging to the Commercial Banking Company of Sydney Limited – was built in 1872. (iPhone6)

Westpac Bank Building, Yass, NSW Australia.

Westpac Bank Building
This beautiful Victorian building, dating to 1886, originally housed the Australian Joint Stock Bank. Bank of New South Wales (Westpac) took the building over in 1931. Today – like so many other rural services – it is permanently closed. (iPhone6)

Old Railway Bridge over the Yass River, NSW Australia.

Reflections of the Old Railway Bridge
Yass was connected to the New South Wales Government Railways’ Main Southern railway line in 1892. This heritage-listed, single span lightweight bridge across the Yass River carried the Yass Town Tramway. It was the first American-style Pratt-truss railway bridge in NSW. Although it closed to regular service in 1988, it is still sound. (iPhone6)

Pink spring blossoms against a clear blue sky, Bungendore, Australia.

Spring Blossoms
It is October, so the fruit trees of Bungendore are in full bloom.

Old house, 24 Gibraltar Street, Bungendore NSW Australia

Bungendore Real Estate Agent
Many of the businesses in town occupy charming old country buildings.

Royal Hotel, 34 Gibraltar Street, Bungendore NSW Australia

Royal Hotel
Originally opened in 1883, the Royal Hotel features the elegant ironwork typical in Australian buildings from the period. It closed in 2020 (some years after this photo was taken) for a complete internal renovation, reopening for business early this year.

Old house, 31 Gibraltar Street, Bungendore NSW Australia

Gibraltar Street

St Philip

Philip’s Anglican Church
One of many churches around town, the old stone building housing St Philip’s was finished in 1865. As far as I can tell, the church has operated continuously since then.

Roofline of the Post Office, 55 Gibraltar Street, Bungendore, Australia

Corrugated Iron and Brick Chimney Pots

Old Post Office building, 55 Gibraltar Street, Bungendore, Australia

Bungendore Post Office
Built in 1882, the post-office complex includes a three-bedroom residence in a separate building from the business.

School of Arts building from behind trees, 57 Gibraltar Street, Bungendore, Australia

A Leafy School of Arts Building (1890)

Stone Gallipoli Memorial, Gibraltar Street, Bungendore, Australia

Gallipoli Memorial
Most Australian towns have a tribute to the soldiers they lost on the Gallipoli Peninsula in WWI (see: In Remembrance of the ANZACs).

An empty lot and an old house, Bungendore NSW Australia

Empty Lots and Old Buildings

St Joseph

St Joseph’s Convent
This impressive double- and triple-brick two-storey building opened in 1891, and often housed Australia’s only beatified Catholic saint, St Mary of the Cross MacKillop. It is now privately owned.

Wild yellow capeweed in bloom, Bungendore, Australia

A Bee in the Capeweed (Arctotheca Calendula)

Iron fence and gate on an old property, Bungendore, Australia

A Gate on the Wild Garden
I can’t help but admire the old ironwork that was a feature of so many properties.

Front view St Mary

St Mary’s Catholic Church
Opened in 1862, this church is still in use.

Inside St Mary

Inside St Mary’s
It was closed, but I had a peep through the window.

Sulphur crested cockatoo in a tall tree, Bungendore, Australia

Sulphur Crested Cockatoo – Cacatua Galerita
These noisy birds are everywhere; they love the seeds in the tall trees.

Wisteria in bloom, Bungendore, Australia

Wisteria
This is another common sight in spring: wisteria was popular with early settlers, and can be seen in hedges everywhere.

Wood and glass shop fronts, Bungendore, Australia

Bungendore Shops
It is time for afternoon tea, so we make our way back to the tourist centre.

Bungendore Wood Works shop front from across the road, NSW Australia

Bungendore Wood Works
This is my absolute favourite spot in town: full of beautiful artworks crafted from fine woods. I often bring overseas visitors here.

The Hannah Cabinet inside the Bungendore Wood Works, NSW Australia

The Hannah Cabinet
This magnificent piece inside the Wood Works was painstakingly crafted by Geoff Hannah over six and a half years. After this photo was taken, the cabinet was acquired by Lismore Regional Gallery, where it was damaged in the devastating floods of 2022 (see: ABC Flood Damaged Artworks).

The Wood Works has lots of smaller pieces, and I usually end up going home with something new – whether for myself or as a gift.

Text: Happy Rambling

They also have a coffee shop – and that’s where we ended up before finishing our drive home.

Until next time!

Pictures: 25October2016

Portrait: Indian man in a green turban selling flowers, Madurai market.

Flower Seller
The flower market in Madurai, Tamil Nadu, is one of the biggest markets in India, selling all manner of flora to local and export traders.

Like other Indian cities, Madurai in the southern state of Tamil Nadu offers up some magnificent palace and temple architecture.

But, it was the life in the streets that I loved best.

I was travelling around South India with a small group. We had driven to Madurai from Thanjavur the day before, stopping to visit two old and notable Hindu temples in Tiruchirappalli on the way (see: Temples and Street Scenes).

We had another temple on our itinerary for the day ahead: the historic Arulmigu Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple, also known as Arulmigu Meenakshi Amman Thirukkovil, built in the late 12th, early 13th century. But, it was India’s Republic Day – and clearly half the local populace had the same destination in mind. The temple is a major pilgrimage destination within Tamil Shaivism traditions, and the public holiday was an auspicious day for weddings, baptisms, and just paying respects in general. In spite of our guide’s best efforts, we were looking at more than an hour in a queue before being allowed through the temple’s impressive doors.

We had already visited the city’s renowned flower market and the impressive 17th century Thirumalai Nayak Palace – both of which I loved, so I was not too disappointed when the group opted to wander and shop, rather than stand in line. I was happy to engage with locals on the street and to view some of the impressive and colourful gopurams (monumental towers) from the rooftop of a nearby shop.

Join me in the streets of Madurai.

Different flowers in tubs, Mattuthavani Flower Market, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Mattuthavani Flower Market
All manner of flowers – mostly grown in the nearby foothills – are for sale.

Crowd in the Flower Market, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Crowd in the Market
The flower market is open 24 hours most days, with early mornings reputed to be the busiest. We arrived relatively late: around 9:30 am, but the laneways were still crowded.

Piles of flowers on a table, Mattuthavani Market, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Flowers for Sale
According to some reports, there are about 10 tonnes of flowers on display.

Bags of flowers on display, Mattuthavani Market, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Bags of Flowers
Wikipedia put the number of growers selling their flowers in the market at about 2000 daily (see: Madurai).

A man

Value Adding
Everywhere you look, hands are busy at work, fashioning flowers and ribbons together to make elaborate garlands.

Floral garlands hanging, Mattuthavani Market, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Jasmine Garlands
Finished garlands are mostly destined to be temple offerings. The local jasmine – Madurai Malli – smells divine.

In the Flower Market, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

In a Market Laneway

Two seated women with bags of lotus blossoms, Flower Market, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Women with Lotus Flowers
Lotuses are another popular local offering.

Two seated women with bags of lotus blossoms, Flower Market, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Crafting the Lotus
The flower is associated with the Hindu God Vishnu and Goddess Lakshmi.

A woman opening a lotus blossom, Flower Market, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Opening the Lotus Flowers
A powerful symbol in Hinduism and Buddhism, …

A woman

A Lotus Flower
… the lotus represents purity, strength, resilience, and rebirth.

In the Flower Market, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Jasmine in the Flower Stalls

Vandiyur Mariamman Temple and tank from the road, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Vandiyur Mariamman Teppakulam
On our way back to the centre of the city, we stopped to admire the huge, man-made Vandiyur Mariamman water tank, connected to the nearby Vaigai River with underground channels. The tank – and the temple in the middle – was built in 1645 by King Tirumala Nayaka (spellings vary).

Men separating long sari threads so the dye can dry, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Drying Dyed Threads
At the side of the road alongside the tank was the most extraordinary scene: …

Men separating long sari threads so the dye can dry, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Freshly Dyed Threads
… meters of threads intended to be woven into sari cloth were stretched out to dry. Men keep the freshly dyed threads moving, so they don’t stick together.

Kingfisher behind a grilled gate, Vandiyur Mariamman Tank, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Kingfisher
Meanwhile, a little kingfisher watches the tank for food.

Clocktower and roof of Thirumalai Nayak Palace, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Thirumalai Nayak Palace Clocktower
Our next stop was at a palace built by King Tirumala Nayaka in 1636, using bricks excavated while digging the tank we had just visited. The clock is wrong – it is 10:30 in the morning.

Main Hall Thirumalai Nayak Palace, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Main Hall
The Thirumalai Nayak Palace (spellings vary) is elegantly beautiful. The story is that the king enlisted the help of an Italian architect. Art historians doubt this, suggesting that this fine example of Vijayanagara architecture came about because of the influence of the many Portuguese, Dutch, and other European traders, missionaries, and visiting travelers in this region at the time.

Decorated arches, Thirumalai Nayak Palace, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Decorated Arches
The delicate colours and detail everywhere are mind-boggling. The brick structure was finished-off with a stucco called chunnam made from shell lime mixed with egg white. This results in the glossy, smooth texture.

Detail from a decoration, Thirumalai Nayak Palace, Madurai Tamil Nadu Ind

A Griffini-Like Creature

Painted circular design, Thirumalai Nayak Palace ceiling, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Painted Ceiling Detail
The ceilings of the palace are richly decorated.

Indian lad on a stone horse, Thirumalai Nayak Palace, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Visitor to the Palace

Windows set into an arch, Thirumalai Nayak Palace, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Light and Colour
The internal pillars and external walls launch high overhead to give an open, airy feel.

Sculpture in the Dance Hall, Thirumalai Nayak Palace, Madurai Tamil Nadu India

Narasimhar – God of Yoga
What was the Dance Hall now houses a display of archaeological objects – some dating back to 2000 BCE. Unfortunately, the space is dark, dusty, and unkempt. It’s sad to see precious historical objects so poorly cared for.

Parked bicycles, Madurai roadway, Tamil Nadu India

In the Streets: Still Life Found
In the centre of town, we attempt to access the Meenakshi Amman Hindu Temple.

People outside an entry to Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple, Madurai, Tamil Nadu India

Entry Gate: Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple
It doesn’t look that crowded – what we didn’t realise was that police and security forces had people lining up all along the outside walls of the temple. (Phone12Pro)

Portrait of a female selling flowers outside Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple, Madurai, Tamil Nadu India

Flower Seller
I amused myself by chatting with one of the many venders outside the temple. She pinned my purchase of Madurai Malli into my hair for me. (Phone12Pro)

Tamil couple in their wedding finery outside the Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple, Madurai, Tamil Nadu India

Bride and Groom
Republic Day is an auspicious time for blessings on any event, and there were a number of wedding parties outside the temple. Looking at the elaborate garlands worn by the bride and groom, you start to understand where some of the tonnes of flowers at the market end up! (Phone12Pro)

Portrait: Indian woman and her year-old child, Madurai, Tamil Nadu

‘Baptism’
It’s a bit like a baptism – on an auspicious day (like Republic Day) towards the end of a baby’s first year, their head is shaved and the hair given to the household God. The infant is then washed, dried, and their head covered in yellow paste. This little girl was not impressed, but her family were in a celebratory mood. (Phone12Pro)

Our next stop was at the impressive and educative Gandhi Museum, where I was reminded of Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi’s background and enormous influence on India and the broader world. It was in Madurai, in 1921, that Gandhi renounced European-style clothing and decided to wear the white loincloth that he considered symbolic of India’s poor.

Text: Happy TravelsI left Madurai with countless colourful impressions – as well as some new carved elephants, and some embroidered cottons. 😊

Much better than a long wait for another temple!

Photos: 26January2023

Two seated women from Les Aunties, in black and orange, on stage singing, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

All the Way from Chad
With accompaniment only from percussive hand-claps and large painted gourds, Les Aunties take to the Friday Evening Concert Bowl Stage to sing joyful songs of protest against oppression.

From the First People of Comox Valley, Canada, to the landlocked central African nation of Chad; from acoustic guitar folk harmonies to cross-cultural genre-bending musical layers; from unaccompanied voices and percussions to complex and layered instrumental blends – the Vancouver Island Musicfest in July had no apparent boundaries. Even if I’d had an idea what to expect, I still would have been surprised.

I was meant to be attending the festival with a friend who had taken part before; unfortunately, she became ill and couldn’t make it. But, I love live music (see: Music in the Snowy Mountains) and I already had my ticket and my accommodation in nearby Courtenay – so off I went.

I had a lot of difficulty deciding how to organise my pictures. (I also had difficulty taking them – more on that some other time!) In the end, I’ve simply grouped them on a timeline.

So, this short set is from Day 1, Friday evening July 12th, when only one stage was running. Technical difficulties meant that things kicked off late, but started with the Welcome from the local First People’s Kumugwe Dancers. In addition to welcoming us to their traditional lands, they invited three Maori visitors from New Zealand to the stage to present their cultural dance. I spoke to one of the New Zealanders afterwards: he had never before performed in public! The dance they had conducted on stage was usually part of their family cultural gatherings.

The nine energetic singers who form Les Aunties were on next, with their musical entreaties to educate and empower women. They sang to us, in their charmingly accented native French overlaid on rhythmic African harmonies, about the ongoing hardships for women in Chad in Central Africa. In complete contrast, Second Moon, who had just flown in from South Korea, thrilled the audience with traditional Pansori sounds mixed with Irish instruments. The lead singer, Danhae Oh, can hold a note longer than I have heard in a long time! Their set was cut short by organisers trying to get the timing back on track – much to the disappointment of all those seated around me.

Folk-duo the Milk Carton Kids from Los Angeles followed, with their distinctively Simon-and-Garfunkely sound. For those you of not from North America, back before the days of plastic bottles, the faces and descriptions of missing children were often printed on milk cartons – in the hope that someone would recognise them. Those were the original ‘Milk carton kids.’

Then, another complete shift, and we were treated to four gifted virtuoso musicians: multi-Grammy-winning banjo player Béla Fleck, pre-eminent classical tabla artist Zakir Hussain, outstanding double bassist Edgar Meyer, and brilliant classical Indian flautist Rakesh Chaurasia, play together as As We Speak. It shouldn’t work, but it does! I was not the only audience member smiling and breathless.

Join me for some musical portraits:

Chief Wedlidi Speck on the main stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

“Welcome”
Chief Wedlidi Speck, Hereditary Chief of the G’ixsam Clan of the Kwakiutl, with cultural connections to the Kwakwaka’wakw, Nuu-chah-nulth, and Northern Vancouver Island Coast Salish tribes, …

Kumugwe Dancers on the main stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

Blankets, Buttons, and Fringes
… opened the music festival and introduced the Kumugwe Dancers.

Kumugwe Dancers on the main stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

Wolf Headdresses
The Kumugwe Dancers performed a number of dances. In this region, the wolf represents loyalty, strong family ties, good communication, education, understanding, and intelligence.

Seated audience, with the Kumugwe Dancers on the main stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

A Sea of Hats
Temperatures were in the comfortably low 20° C (70° F), but it had been a cold spring and there was little shade. Locals (and I) kept well covered. (iPhone15Pro)

Kumugwe Dancers on the main stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

Traditional Dress
More Kumugwe Dancers in blanket capes and fur headdresses – traditional dress on Vancouver Island shows a lot of cross-over with First Nation groups from further north, like Haida and Tlingit.

Empty chairs and some seated audience, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

A Sunny Afternoon
According to rules posted everywhere, chairs or tarps are not meant to be left unattended. Even so, there are a lot of empty seats where people have staked out their territory.

One of Les Aunties, in black and orange, on stage singing, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

Stories of Tchad
Les Aunties took to the stage with their wonderful voices – and sad stories in charmingly accented French.

Portrait: One of Les Aunties, in black and orange, on stage singing, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

Singing for Les Aunties
The Republic of Chad was a French colony until 1960; the official languages are French and Arabic. Ongoing conflicts and structural challenges have resulted in a serious deterioration in the living conditions of women – which these strong women sing about.

Food trucks in the early evening, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

Food Trucks
One of the great pleasures of festivals is enjoying foods I wouldn’t normally eat.

Yunjeong Jo on violin with Second Moon, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

Yunjeong Jo on Violin
The seven-piece Second Moon from South Korea took to the stage with vigour – in spite of just arriving into the country.

Second Moon on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

“Traditional Pansori Meets Western Music”
I can’t quite get a handle on what Pansori is, but one description says the traditional Korean style involves a ‘clown’ singing of his trials and tribulations to the accompaniment of one or two drums.

Portrait: Danhae Oh from Second Moon on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

Danhae Oh
In Pansori, a clown sings with a fan in their right hand. Danhae Oh had us gasping over his vocal range and breath control.

Portrait: Hyunbo Kim on Irish whistle on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

In a Gat – a Korean Hat
Multi-instrumentalist Hyunbo Kim plays Irish whistle …

Hyunbo Kim on electric bagpipes on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

Hyunbo Kim
… and electric bagpipes, among other instruments.

The Milk Carton Kids on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

The Milk Carton Kids
Kenneth Pattengale and Joey Ryan formed their folk duo in 2011 and have recently released their seventh studio album.

The Milk Carton Kids on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

Vocal Harmonies
The beautifully blended voices of The Milk Carton Kids have a distinctly Simon & Garfunkel feel.

As We Speak on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

Sound Check
Even watching the technicians getting the balances right for As We Speak was riveting!

As We Speak performing on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

As We Speak
A true collaboration among virtuosos Béla Fleck, Zakir Hussain, Edgar Meyer, and Rakesh Chaurasia, this ensemble alternated between working together and showcasing individual talent.

As We Speak on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

Edgar Meyer, Rakesh Chaurasia, and Zakir Hussain
Double bassist and composer Edgar Meyer has Western classical music roots, while Rakesh Chaurasia has mastered techniques of Indian classical music. The superb tabla of Zakir Hussain had me dreaming of India and camel riding.

Portrait: Béla Fleck on banjo, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

Béla Fleck on Banjo
American banjo player Béla Fleck plays music including bluegrass, jazz, classical, rock, and various world music genres.

As We Speakperforming on stage, Vancouver Island Musicfest, Comox BC Canada

As We Speak on the Stage
The combined effect was breathtaking, and well worth the price of the ticket.

That set alone was worth the price of admission! I bought the CD (which, unfortunately I cannot share as my computer doesn’t have a reader), and took myself home for a shower.

Text: To the Music

And, I was not the only audience member to call it quits at that point, feeling quite sated – and quite looking forward to the next day.

Until then,

Enjoy the Music!

Pictures: 12July2024

View across the Lousios Gorge from Philosophos Menalon, Arcadia Greece

Looking out from the Hidden Monasteries
Dating back to the Byzantine, the old fortified monastery of Philosophos Menalon, on the western side of the Lousios Gorge in Arcadia, was reputedly home to a secret Orthodox school during the Ottoman rule of Greece (1453 – 1821).

They had me at “walk”.

Then they told me I’d visit ancient Orthodox monasteries and be treated to Coffee & Greek Delight. What a joy!

I was travelling around Greece with a small group: we had wound our way east from Olympia on the Peloponnese Peninsula (see: In the Footsteps of the Gods), and driven high into the Peloponnese Mountains. There, we stopped in the charming stone-built village of Dimitsana, staying two nights in a guesthouse on the steep slopes of Mt. Mainalo overlooking the Lousios River.

This gave us a full day to explore nearby villages and a small section of the Menalon Trail.

What is now called the Menalon Trail is a 75 kilometre (47 mile) track from Stemnitsa to Lagkadia, following ancient mountain tracks historically used to get people and mules between villages and monasteries. Paths run every-which-way, and we were able to dip into the track to visit the tenth-century Byzantine monastery of Philosophou (Philosophos/Filosofou) and the amazing working monastery of Prodromos.

The mountains around the Lousios Valley are spectacular and layered with history. The Lousios River is said to be where Zeus was bathed as an infant. The ancient Arcadian town of Teuthis, which was part of the Trojan War and the colonization of Megalopolis, was where Dimitsana now sits. Sections of the old walls remain. The word ‘monastery’ comes from the Greek monazein “to live alone”: hermits and monks have stayed in caves that overlook the Lousios Gorge for centuries.

The Monastery of the Philosopher, on the west side of the gorge, was founded by 963 by Ioannis Lampardopoulos from Dimitsana, and is thought to be the oldest monastery in Arcadia. In more recent times, a krifó scholió, a secret school, is said to have operated here to teach children Greek language and religion during the Ottoman occupation, and it is where the Greek Revolution of 1821 against that occupation began.

On the opposite side of the Lousios Gorge, about 200 metres above the bed of the river, the incredible Prodromos Monastery follows a ledge in the cliff face. Dedicated to John the Baptist (Agios Ioannis Prodromos), it was built in the 16th century on foundations dating to 1167. It survived a 1779 attack by Albanian troops under the Ottoman command and became a refuge and hospital for fighters during the Greek Revolution.

Today, the monks in Prodromos offer coffee and Greek Delight to appropriately-dressed visitors during open hours. I loved it!

Come explore:

View over the katholicon of the Filosofou Monastery, Dimitsana Greece

Moni Philosophou
The start of our walk takes us over the domed basilica of the ‘new’ Filosofou Monastery, which has perched on the west side of the Lousios Gorge since 1691.

Stairs on the mountainside below the Filosofou Monastery, Dimitsana Greece

Stairs on the Trail
From the ‘new’ monastery, we follow a paved path down the mountainside …

Stairs Up to the Filosofou Monastery, Dimitsana Greece

Stairs Up
… arriving at older sections of path that seem to lead us into the mountain itself. The red sign with the squiggled ‘M’ on it is an official Menalon Trail marker.

Fortified room in the Filosofou Monastery, Dimitsana Greece

Through the Tunnels
The old monastery is nestled into narrow cavities eroded and carved into the mountainside.

Ruins in the Filosofou Monastery, Dimitsana Greece

Hidden Corridors
There are six to seven meters – sometimes less – between the outer wall and the rock face.

The Old Philosophou Monastery, Dimitsana Greece

The Old Philosophou Monastery
Fading religious frescoes can be seen (no photos allowed!) inside the small chapel.

Ruins in the Filosofou Monastery, Dimitsana Greece

Ancient Corridors
The views across the valley are incredible!

View of a rock face from the Filosofou Monastery, Dimitsana Greece

View from a Hole-in-the-Wall

Walking through corridors, the Filosofou Monastery, Dimitsana Greece

Walking through Corridors
Like the monasteries of Meteora (see: A Walk through Ancient Monasteries), the wild inaccessibility of these places allowed the Orthodox monks and their traditions to survive the long Ottoman rule.

Walkers on a shady trail, the Lousios Valley, Dimitsana Greece

Path in the Woods
The path continues down into the Lousios valley.

Cyclamen and ivy on the ground, The Prayers

Cyclamen and Ivy

Waterfall on a Mountain Stream
This section of trail is sometimes called The Prayers’ Gorge – probably for the pilgrims who walked through here.

Prodromou Monastery viewed from the gorge below, Stemnitsa, Greece

Monastery on the Hill
Once we cross the stream over to the other side of the valley, we can see the incredible Prodromou Monastery, built into the steep cliff high above us.

Heliotropium Europaeum and yellow crocus in the rocks, The Prayers

Heliotropium Europaeum and Crocus Flavus

Dome of the Prodromos Monastery from below, Stemnitsa, Greece

Orthodox Dome
It’s a steep climb up from the valley floor …

In the Prodromou Monastery courtyard, Stemnitsa, Greece

In the Monastery
… to the courtyard of the Prodromou Monastery. Cats are everywhere!

Stairs and entry to Prodromou Monastery, Stemnitsa, Greece

Into the Monastery
Built in the 16th century, today Prodromou is one of the largest and most historic monasteries in the Peloponnese. We are welcomed with coffee and sweets.

Holy Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior from the path above the Prodromou Monastery, Stemnitsa, Greece

Holy Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior
After our visit to the ancient monastery, we continue our trek upward until we reach another orthodox church and a roadway, where our transport waits.

View over the valley, Stemnitsa, Greece

View into the Valley
There is an overlook nearby, and we pause to admire the valley.

Coffee cups and squares of Greek Delight at the Prodromou Monastery, Stemnitsa, Greece

Coffee and Greek Delight
It’s all about the food! The coffee at Prodromou tasted even better after our walk. (iPhone12Pro)

Grilled lamb chops and chips at Sarakiniotis Tavern, Stemnitsa, Greece

… When in Greece …
Lunch in Stemnitsa was lemony grilled lamb chops. How do chips and salads taste so good? (iPhone12Pro)

A couple walking in a Stemnítsa street, Greece

Country Lanes – Mountain Village
After lunch, I take the time to wander the charming streets of Stemnítsa. (iPhone12Pro)

Roadside shrine, Dimitsana Greece

Roadside Shrine
We return to Dimitsana, where the streets are just as delightful.

Casagli Luxury Suites, Dimitsana Greece

Stone Buildings
Modern five-star accommodation hides behind traditional building fronts.

Steep street, Dimitsana Greece

Dimitsana Street
Stonework is everywhere – some of it dates to the ancient town of Teuthis

Red roofs of Dimitsana on the green hillside, Greece

Dimitsana on the Hill

Dimitsana by night from the En Dimitsani Guest House, Greece

View from my Balcony
After dark, Dimitsana is lit up like a fairytale. (iPhone12Pro)

It is such a beautiful area!

I’m not sure which I enjoyed more, the walking or the food.

Pictures: 16September2022