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Masai Giraffe – Giraffa Tippelskirchi
Striding across a protected landscape of savannah bounded by wilderness and mountains, a giraffe seems to own the grasslands of southwestern Kenya.
How many distinctively different animals can you see in just one day in the Masai (Masaai) Mara?
More than will fit into one blog post, apparently!
The Mara is home to about 95 species of mammals, including the “The Big Five”: lions, leopards, African bush elephants, African buffaloes, and black rhinoceros. The bird species number over 450. My count on my first full day in the park didn’t mount quite that high, but the frequency and density of animal sightings was still breathtaking.
The total area in the Greater Maasai Mara ecosystem – or simply “the Mara” – is huge: covering almost 1,510 square kilometres (580 sq mi). It includes the Maasai Mara National Reserve (see: Masai Mara National Reserve), the Mara Triangle, several Maasai group ranches, and Maasai Mara conservancies.
Each section is managed somewhat differently, but infrastructure development is carefully managed and wild animals have right-of-way everywhere. In the conservancies, Maasai communities still continue to live in their traditional way, herding their cattle – while the Reserve and the Triangle, you will see only wild animals.
I was on a long-awaited safari: just me and a Kenyan guide-driver. After a four-hour-plus drive from Lake Nakuru National Park the day before (see: Rainy Roads and Potholes), we had arrived into the park early in the afternoon. In the early evening, we drove up an extraordinarily-bad road into the Oloolaimutia Hills to my accommodation just outside the park gates. Tourist accommodation in the conservancies – that is, outside the actual park boundaries – tends to be less expensive, and includes more infrastructure.
Entry into the park is time-limited: strictly 12 hours per entry fee and restricted to between 6am and 6pm. That said, on this particular day we entered the gates after 7am. By mid-afternoon, my camera batteries and I were exhausted.
Join me for some highlights:
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A Blue Wildebeest – Connochaetes Taurinus
Our first sighting in the morning was a herd of wildebeest grazing. One of the Ugly Five, wildebeest certainly are odd-looking creatures. The blue wildebeest – which isn’t actually blue, as you can see – is the most common. What really caught my eye here was the distinctive hammerhead birds running around at their feet.
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Hamerkop – Scopus Umbretta
Named for the shape of their heads, these medium-sized water birds are common across Africa, Madagascar, and Arabia. They are also known as hammerheads, anvil heads, or umbrette.
Helmeted Guineafowl – Numida Meleagris
As we drive the rough, dirt tracks through the expansive park, native guineafowl scuttle around the road edges.
Topi – Damaliscus Lunatus
An elegant topi – a large African antelope – scans the savanna for predators.
Lions on a Hill
My guide was determined to return to the road tailings that we had visited the previous afternoon (see: Masai Mara National Reserve). I dutifully took many pictures – even though I don’t find lions sleeping on a pile of dirt particularly interesting or photogenic.
Lilac-Breasted Roller – Coracias Caudatus
I was far more excited when I spotted Kenya’s beautiful and colourful little national bird.
African Bush Elephant – Loxodonta Africana
Also known as African savanna elephants, these magnificent – but endangered – creatures are spotted regularly in the open savanna.
On the Mara River
We cover a lot of ground, and the terrain is constantly changing. Later in the morning, we stop at the river …
Ranger Hillary
… where I’m introduced to a young ranger. He took me for a walk along the river in search of hippopotamus.
Nile Crocodile – Crocodylus Niloticus
The hippos are mostly hiding, only showing their ears, foreheads, and snout above the muddy river. On the other hand, crocodiles, which are an apex predator in the Mara, can be seen everywhere: on the rocky shore and in the water.
Lone Tree
Back away from the river, the grasslands stretch out in all directions, dotted with acacia tree.
Little Bee-Eater – Merops Pusillus
I don’t have the the patience – or the lenses – for bird photography, but I couldn’t resist this delightful little bee-eater.
Superb Starling – Lamprotornis Superbus
Some time later, as we stop to watch more lions sleeping, a beautiful superb starling lights on a neighbouring jeep.
Impalas – Aepyceros Melampus
Many antelope use hills and termite mounds to keep an eye out for predators.
Resting Lions
A completely relaxed lion pair snooze after mating.
Lion in a Tree
Lions will sleep anywhere!
Topi – Damaliscus Lunatus
Such a long face! From another mound, a topi keeps watch.
On the River
We crossed the river again. The lush grass almost hides the African buffalo (Syncerus caffer) on the opposite bank; we’d seen plenty of these, so didn’t stop.
Warthogs – Phacochoerus Africanus
One of the ugly five, these fully-grown examples are not as cute as the young piglets.
Thomson’s Gazelle – Eudorcas Thomsonii
It had been a particularly rainy spring and all the animals looked healthy – albeit covered in an abundance of flies.
Eland – Taurotragus
I marvelled at the many different types of antelope we saw.
Banded Mongoose – Mungos Mungo
These were too quick and too far away for a clear shot – but I just loved watching their antics.
Plains Zebra – Equus Quagga
There are several different types of zebras, and they are all beautiful. I know this is a plains zebra, but can’t tell you if it is a Grant’s or Burchell’s.
Black-Backed Jackal – Lupulella Mesomelas
Common Ostrich – Struthio Camelusa
Even though she is less flashy than her male counterpart, watching a female ostrich so close is still wonderful.
There is no way I could have lasted 12 full hours!
It was a wonderful day with so many animals, but after hours of bouncing around in the back of a Land Cruiser, I was ready for a hot shower, a tasty dinner, and a comfy bed.
And, with any luck, we’d be back in the park the next morning.
Until then,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 13May2026
