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Really??? THAT is my Trail ??
I had clearly bitten off more than I could chew: the Göynük Canyon in the foothills of Türkiye’s Taurus Mountains is stunningly beautiful, but not exactly easy to walk through!
I knew it might be tough – just not how tough!
I had booked myself a supported walk on the eastern section of the Lycian Way on the southern coastline of Türkiye. The full walk is 540 kilometers (335 miles), typically completed in 25 to 30 walking days – well beyond my ambitions or stamina. I decided on the eastern section because I had a group tour planned around Türkiye later in my proposed stay, and some of the stops on that itinerary overlapped with the Western Lycian Way.
Then COVID-19 hit. Travel stopped. I deferred my deposit. By the time I prepared to actually undertake the walk, I was two years older.
I arrived into Antalya on the bus from Bodrum (see: Bodrum: Türkiye’s Charming Southwestern Port) the evening before my trek, and was then driven the 45 minutes to my guest house in Göynük. After too much food and too little sleep, I was transported to and deposited at the entry of Göynük Gorge the next morning.
Estimates of the difficulty of this track vary. Some say “medium to hard”; others just say “hard” – and include words like “challenging” and “rugged”. In any event, I was panicked enough by the descriptions of the first day that I opted to send my cameras with the rest of my luggage rather than carry them. It was absolutely the right decision! I would have never finished if I had been carrying the extra weight.
My trip notes said: “You walk uphill all day …” and that felt about right. They also predicted: 17km (10.6mi) / 6hrs / +1200m / -510m. By contrast, my walker tracked: 22.31 km / 8:30 hrs / +1692 m / -1014 m. I emptied two external battery packs; thank heavens I had them, as the track was not always well-marked or obvious, and without the gps on my phone, I would have never found my way. I also drank copious amounts of water, and was grateful to find a kiosk where I bought an extra bottle towards the end of the day – which I also finished.
I’ve done the hard work; you can tag along with ease:
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Pomegranate – Punica Granatum
Nothing says “Mediterranean” to me like a tree full of fresh pomegranates! My guesthouse was set into beautiful gardens.
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Follow The Food : A Turkish Breakfast for One!
Add a pot of coffee – and I’m happy.
Entry to the Göynük Canyon
This is the official start of the Likya Yolu – the Lycian Way. I don’t know whether I am more excited or nervous.
A Wild Turkish Goat
Although bezoar ibex (Capra aegagrus aegagrus) are well distributed in this region, the statues at the park entry are the only ones I saw. Mind you, I spent a lot of time watching my feet on the incredibly rocky ground!
Lake at the Bottom
I was worried about stopping too long here, but I couldn’t help admiring the Taurus Mountains as they reflected in the still waters.
Picnic Pagoda
Contained within the Beydağları Coastal National Park, the Göynük Canyon is a popular recreational area.
Reflections in the Turquoise
Because the water here comes down from the high surrounding mountains, it is incredibly clear – and cold year round.
Cream Pincushions – Scabiosa Ochroleuca
This pretty little member of the honeysuckle family is widely distributed in Türkiye.
Göynük Canyon
Clearly I had been distracted by the views – I missed my turn-off and had to backtrack.
It’s a Rough Trail to Follow!
A narrow and exceptionally rocky trail zig-zags up through the pines.
Greek Strawberry Tree – Arbutus Andrachne – Ağacı
Views of the Mountains
High above Göynük Canyon, I’m surrounded by Mediterranean pine and glimpses of mountaintops.
Sing in Praise of Good Boots!
I’m thankful for the ankle support in my boots: the path continues rocky and steep. A twisted ankle while walking alone would not be ideal!
In the Mountain Peaks
Trees and Rocks on the Ridge
It is ruggedly beautiful. I take a lot of pictures: partially because the constant uphill climb is killing me! I’m three hours in – and well behind schedule already.
Rocky Cairns
Occasionally, small cairns mark the path to follow. I actually look out for them, because other markings are few and far between.
Mediterranean Pine – Pinus Brutia
Also known as, Calabrian pine or Turkish pine, these trees grow tall and straight on the ridge lines – and twisted and gnarled on the windy edges of the forest. The pine needles are deep and soft underfoot.
Colchicum Variegatum
Small members of the lily family decorate the forest floor.
Wild Buckwheat? Asteraceae?
Cyclamen Maritimum around a Boulder
Little flowers hide everywhere – a welcome distraction from my fatigue.
Rocky Creek
Finally I reach the creek I should have found by lunch time.
You are Kidding???
This section is even more overwhelming than I had anticipated. I couldn’t quite believe that a makeshift ladder was my only egress. Believe me: I looked for alternatives!
A Rocky Canyon
The canyon is distinguished by: rugged riverbeds, large smooth boulders, and steep canyon walls requiring occasional scrambling and improvised crossings. It’s a good thing I didn’t read that before I left home!
A Taurus Mountaintop
Somehow, I made it through. I don’t remember how, but some tears and a lot of swearing were involved. Eight hours into my day, I was back in the mountaintops.
More Pine and Rocks
“Panoramic WC”
Eventually, my path widens out into an actual track, and there are signs of civilization – including this charming loo with a view.
I never did quite reach my end point.
After finding a dirt road – about a kilometre from where I was meant to meet my ride – an unmarked car with an undindistingued driver pulled up beside me and offered me a lift. At least I think he did: he spoke almost no English, and I speak no Turkish. I politely declined, as I had no idea who he was. He then named the hotel I was aiming for. But, I was in the middle of nowhere – where else would I be going? Again, I declined, as this wasn’t the correct meeting spot. He then mentioned “Mr Deniz”, who was my local contact, and I relented and got in.
I later learned that every second man in this region is named Deniz! Fortunately, this actually was the driver for my hotel. We finally managed to chat a little in in German – which we both spoke badly. I arrived at my hotel late, drenched in sweat, and exhausted – but alive!
Fortunately, I had organised an extra rest day for myself – so hopefully – after that and a good sleep – I’d be ready for the next leg of this adventure.
Happy Walking!
Pictures: 09October2022
