Wandering the Labyrinth: in the Medinas of Fes (#1), Morocco

A metal lantern in front of an ornate wooden building, Fes el Bali, Fes, Morocco.

A Lantern in the Labyrinth
The narrow, winding laneways of the old medinas in Fes, Morocco, are distinguished by ornate multi-storied wooden buildings, richly decorated with carved cedar corbels and geometric lattice screens, and adorned with intricately carved stucco arabesques and calligraphy.

Morocco’s northern inland city of Fes (Fez, Fès) is home to not one, but two medinas – old walled cities. Distinguished by their narrow, winding streets and their rich history, these old quarters – Fes el-Bali and Fes Jdid – are jointly UNESCO-listed as the Medina of Fez and are considered: “one of the most extensive and best conserved historic towns of the Arab-Muslim world.”

This is one of the world’s largest and oldest urban pedestrian zones (car-free areas) and I’d challenge you to find your way through the maze without getting lost. Fortunately, I was travelling with a small group (see: Intrepid Morocco in Depth) and we had a local guide who grew up in Fes el-Bali, playing in the tangle of narrow laneways around his home.

We started our day in the newer Fes Jdid (New Fez), established in 1276. We spent time admiring the magnificent gates of the Royal Palace of Fez (Dar al-Makhzen). The palace was originally built by the Marinid sultan Abu Yusuf Ya’qub in 1276, but much of what we see today dates to somewhere between the 17th and 20th centuries.

We then crossed outside the old city by bus to the locality of Ain Nokbi, where the city’s potters were relocated in 2013. There, we had views over the rambling old Fes el-Bali, and a chance to admire (and purchase) some wonderful traditional pottery (see: Traditional Moroccan Pottery and Ceramics).

After that, we headed into Fes el Bali, the Old Town, which was founded between 789 and 808 AD. There, we explored on foot – albeit with a careful eye out for our guide, so as not to get lost.

So much to see, so little time! Join me for a foray into an ancient city.

Portrait of a man with a map of the Fes medina, Morocco.

Man and a Map of the Medina
Our local guide gives us an overview of the old city of Fes.

Main gates of the Dar al-Makhzen, Fes Morocco.

Main Gates of the Dar al-Makhzen
The original foundation of the Fes Royal Palace dates back to 1276. These magnificent front gates, however, were built between 1969 and 1971. The seven monumental wooden doors are decorated with brass and framed by intricate zellige tilework and carved cedarwood canopy lintels.

I 💙 These Brass Door Handles!

Zellige Tilework
Everything is ornately decorated. Traditional zellige tilework is made from handcrafted terracotta tiles, baked and mineral-glazed, then tessellated into intricate mosaics.

Behind the Fes Palace
Away from the palace, a wide arterial street winds through one of the old quarters.

Storks on the Ramparts
White storks (Ciconia ciconia) are big birds that range across Europe, Africa, and Asia. Here in Fes, they build their large stick nests on the fortifications in the city wall.

Fès el-Bali
From a hill in Ain Nokbi, we have an extensive view over the terracotta rooftops and stone walls in the oldest walled medina in Fes: the Fes el-Bali.

A Window in the Wall
The remains of old fortifications are everywhere.

Metal Fence

Guide in the Medina
Inside the Fès el-Bali, our guide talks about his childhood growing up in these narrow lanes where everyone knew each other.

Breath In!
Some of the walkways are impossibly narrow; many are dead ends.

In the Historic Medina de Fez
Buildings rise up multiple stories either side of us.

Man in a Corridor
This is still home for a lot of people. In fact, UNESCO cites the ever-increasing population in an already dangerously overpopulated area – and the urban over-development which is a consequence of that – as one of the principal risks to the site.

Under a Lattice Roof
After a while, we come out into a wider avenue of shops.

R’cif Mosque
Back in the open, we have a view of the R’cif Mosque. Built between 1792 and 1822 on a cliffside along the shore of the Bou Khrareb River (Oued Bou Khrareb), its minaret stands tall against the sky. The river is mostly underground now, but is followed by a major road which allows access for public transportation and emergency vehicles into the old city.

In the Fresh Foods
Back under more lattice roofing, the crowded market aisle is lined with fresh and colourful produce.

Waiting for Customers
The crowded market has as many locals as tourists, but the butcher has no customers.

Wool, Textiles, and Dye Pots
We move from fresh goods to fabrics. Many of the shopfronts in the medina are also workshops where artisans dye and prepare wool.

Souk Sebbaghine – Dyers’ Market
The colourful laneways are cobbled underfoot, and the lattice roofing allows some light and air.

Dyed Yarns
Vivid yarns hang from the walls and overhead. The skeins include wool, cotton, and sabra (cactus silk).

Dyes – Natural and Otherwise
Similarly, the dyes include traditional pigments like indigo for blue, henna for brown and orange, and turmeric or saffron for yellow, as well as more recent (and often cheaper) chemical dyes for virant reds, greens, and purples.

Medersa es-Seffarin – The Metalworkers’ Madrasa
We round a corner out of the textiles and into the metalworks neighbourhood. The façade of the madrasa, or religious school, here is beautiful: decorated with intricately carved stucco and cedarwood.