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Shiva on the River
This statue of Shiva meditating in the Ganges, in front of the Parmarth Niketan Ashram, is emblematic of Rishikesh. Some stories mistakenly say that the statue was ‘swept away’ in the the truly devastating floods of June 2023. Although the torrential rains caused enormous damage and loss of life all across this region, Shiva did not budge. He sat unperturbed as the force of the rising waters swirled around him. At one stage at least, he was completely submerged – but unharmed.
It was my last day in Rishikesh: that magical city of yogis and mystics on the Ganges at the foothills of the Himalaya.
I’d been there for a week-long yoga ‘retreat’ – a retreat that turned out to be more of a test of patience than a practice of yoga (more on that some other time), and I was determined to get into the heart of the city I had visited only briefly before.
I had met a couple of young lads – one of whom owned and operated a tuk-tuk – and organised for them to transport me to the Ganges for the evening Aarti. Their English was patchy, but their enthusiasm was unmistakable, and I assumed (probably wrongly!) that they would have a level of local knowledge.
Having witnessed the Ganga Aarti, a ritual venerating the Mother Ganges, in Varanasi and Haridwar (eg: Performing the Ganga Aarti at Har Ki Pauri), I thought the evening ritual at Rishikesh – of the most ancient pilgrim places in India, and an abode of the [Hindu] Gods, would be worth observing.
While it was lovely to participate, I could see almost nothing, and came away with very few photos of the Aarti itself.
Still, it was a delightful afternoon, wandering Rishikesh streets and exploring the Hindu sculptures in the gardens of the Parmarth Niketan, the city’s biggest ashram. Do join me!
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Selling Gold
The streets running parallel with the Ganges are home to a lot of foot-traffic, and the shops are kept busy.
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Ram Jhula
Built in 1986, this iron suspension bridge spans 230 metres (750 feet) across the Ganges, and is a Rishikesh landmark.
People on the Bridge
The Ram Jhula is always busy with pedestrians.
Candy-Coloured Temples
There are great views of the ashrams on both sides of the river here …
Woman on the Bridge
… and many pilgrims are more than happy to be photographed.
Macaque on the Bridge
Monkeys roam freely – but don’t seem to be a pest.
Temple on the other Side
People come from all over India – indeed, from all over the world – to visit Rishikesh. The streets are full of pilgrims and tourists, and lined with ashrams and temples.
The Chotiwala
I was determined to find this restaurant again! Choti is Hindi for a tuft of hair kept at the back of the head and never cut for religious reasons, so a Chotiwala is a ‘Braided Man’. A choti is also a small dosa-like pancake filled with paneer, potato, or onion. In heavy makeup, the Chotiwala sits in front of the restaurant of the same name, greeting people and ringing the bell over his head.
Trinket Sales
Religious icons are available everywhere.
The Juice House
It is hot – very hot. So, my helpers and I stop for a freshly-squeezed juice.
The Juice Wala
Krishna Chariot
A wonderful sculpture over the entry to Parmarth Niketan Ganga Ghat is based on a story from a Hindu holy book, the Bhagavad Gita, and shows the God Krishna and the demigod Aruna in their chariot. The entry to the ghat is barred until just before sundown, so we continued to wander.
Market Girls
Back in the secular streets, everyone has something to sell – and everyone has a phone.
Bathing in the Ganges
Bathing in the Mother River is said to purify you and wash away your sins. Worth a try, right! I only went in up to my knees.
Icons in a Window
Most of the buildings along the river are temples and ashrams, so religious images are everywhere.
The Lord Shiva
Shiva meditating in the rushing waters of the Ganges lends a calm to an otherwise bustling location.
Shiva in the Garden
We wander through the gardens behind the Ashram, and find another Shiva – …
Gyan Mudra
… – this one with slightly different mudras, or hand positions.
Mudra in the Garden
Mudras are symbolic gestures or poses in Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism. They are meant to help focus the mind and direct the flow of prana – life force or energy.
Shiva and Parvati
We found another Shiva nearby – this one with his consort, Parvati.
Vishnu and his Bull
There are a number of statues dotted around the extensive gardens – many of which my young ‘guides’ were no help in identifying!
Betel Seller
Back in the bustling streets, venders are everywhere.
Areca Nut
Chewing paan – betel nut from the areca palm, mixed with slaked lime and betel leaves, and sometimes tobacco or flavours, is ubiquitous across southern Asia and Oceania.
Golden-Hour Check-In
The Other Chotiwala
There are two Chotiwala and two Chotiwala Restaurants; on my last visit to the city they were side by side (see: Iconic Rishikesh)! The original restaurant owner died and left the business to his two sons who could not get along. They split the property down the middle and both operated as if they were the only one. One has since relocated – so at least they are no longer next door to each other.
Statue of Hanuman
We are finally allowed onto the ghat. Hanuman, the monkey god of wisdom, strength, courage, devotion, and self-discipline, shows how he holds Rama and Sita in his heart.
Hindu Priest
As people crowd onto the steps leading to the Ganges, …
Young Child
… I content myself with people watching.
On the Ghats
There is a lot of milling around …
Crowd on the Ghat
… and the steps are packed with people. I am one of very few non-Indians in attendance.
Sunset
Finally! As the sun goes down, the ritual songs and prayers in praise of Ganga Ma, the Mother River, begin.
Chariot Overhead
The skies darken and the songs continue.
Prayers in the Dark
I can see almost nothing – but eventually the flames make their way to me and I am blessed.
Shiva after Dark
With one last look at Shiva, I bid the waterfront good night.
Some reports say that Triveni Ghat, a few kilometers further south, is the most famous ghat in Rishikesh and the place for the evening Aarti.
Ah well!
Maybe next time …
Photos: 08September2023
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