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Lines and Curves
The rooftop of Al Hazm Castle provides a good example of the solid defences and elegant lines seen in many Omani forts.
The Sultanate of Oman is a land of forts and castles.
Sitting at the southeastern end of the Arabian Peninsula, this Middle Eastern country has always been a centre of regional trade. As early as 120 AD, a branch of Nabataean Arabs arrived in the vast desert interior. By the 1600s, the Omani Sultanate was an empire, vying with the Portuguese and British for influence in the Persian Gulf and Indian Ocean.
Over the years, internal tribes have warred for power, and the area as a whole has had to defend against outsiders. Small surprise then that “[o]ver 1000 forts, castles and watchtowers continue to stand Guard over the Omani landscape”. These various forts, castles, and towers were built over the years by various Sultans, or by invading Portuguese and Ottomans, and modified by whomever followed.
I certainly didn’t visit anywhere near the 1000 forts on offer, although I saw several from a distance when I was in Muscat (see: Between the Past and the Future and On the Arabian Sea). On my second full day in the country, we drove from Muscat to to the fishing village of Barka where we visited the fish market (see: Morning in the Barka Fish Market) before spending time in the nearby Bait Al Na’aman Castle.
Bait or bayt (بيت) is house in Arabic. Bait Al Na’aman is believed to have been built in 1691-92 by Iman Bil’arab bin Sultan as a royal retreat and rest house for journeys between Muscat and Rustaq. Fortifications were added by the Al bu Said dynasty a century later. The building was restored in 1991 with traditional fittings and furnishings and now operates as a museum.
Al-Hazm Castle is a true fort, built to withstand – and return – cannon-fire. Constructed around the beginning of the 18th century, it was the home – and later the tomb – of Imam Sultan bin Saif II. It is considered to be one of the best examples of Islamic architecture in Oman and has been submitted to the tentative list of the UNESCO World Heritage sites. What stood out for me was the colossal wooden doors equipped with receptacles for pouring boiling date syrup over would-be attackers.
Sticky!
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Bait Al Na’aman
This fortified castle was originally built around 1691-92. It was was restored in 1991 and is now open as a museum.
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Entry Door
The fortifications on these old buildings have a beauty of their own.
Guides in the Doorway
Guides love getting together for a chat. Both men are wearing the traditional white dishdasha. Our guide, Said, is in one of his many round kuma caps, while the museum guide has on a massar or turban.
Lattice Window
The interiors of these old buildings are dark, with very little light coming through the latticed window-covers.
Jewellery
In the dark interior, display cases contain period items that might have been used by the families living here. The traditional silver jewellery is heavy and ornate.
Rooftop
There is plenty of light on the flat roof, where the sun pounds the parapets and the wind ruffles the Omani flag.
Museum Guide
I had a chat with the local guide, the father of 16 children; eight to each of his two wives. He’s considering marrying a third woman so he can have more offspring.
On the Road
Omani highways are smooth and straight; it’s about a 45 minute drive from Bait Al Na’aman to our next fort in the Al Rustaq hills.
Al Hazm Castle
The fort is an impressive structure, one of several built in the Rustaq region during the reign of the Al-Yarubi tribe over Oman.
Said at the Castle Entry
Our guide precedes us though the elegantly simple courtyard doors.
Castle Cannons
Mounted cannons leave one in no doubt as to the building’s main purpose! The castle also contained a prison, a mosque, and religious classrooms.
Arch and Door
Door Details
Family Outing
One of the more recently renovated castles in Oman, the site is a popular destination.
More Door Detail
Guide in a Doorway
Said waits to lead us through the network of rooms.
Doors and Arches
This is where you could be coated in boiling date syrup if you were not welcome!
Date Storage
Many parts of the interior, including where the dates are stored, are almost pitch black.
On the Rooftop
From the expansive rooftop, we have commanding views all around.
Curves on the Rooftop
Much of what we can see are the palms that provide the dates that are an integral part of every aspect of Omani life.
Dates in the Garden
Guide in a Doorway
Coffee Set
Beautiful Walls and Deadly Cannons
Omani Man in a Massar
This is my favourite time in any fort visit: …
Guide in the Garden
… when we settle into the garden for qahwa (or kahwa), coffee blended with saffron, rose water, and cardamon and other spices, …
Story-Teller
… served up with dates and good humour.
With a head full of facts, photo cards full of images, and more than enough dates and qahwa in our bellies, it was time for the hour-and-a-half drive back to Muscat.
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 22October2019
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