Land’s End Shrouded in rain, fog, and sea mist, England’s western-most point can feel like the end of the world.
Weather can make all the difference when you are travelling.
It sets the tone of the landscape and can influence the mood of the visitor.
Back in 2012, my husband and I spent some time in Ireland (For blog posts see: Ireland) and England (eg: Salisbury and Brighton), and we were looking forward to a few days in Cornwall – all during a summer that has since been called the ‘wettest in 100 years’ by the UK Met Office.
The rain wasn’t necessarily a bad thing. Although it makes using bulky DSLR cameras more difficult, given the reputation of the British Isles to be wet and misty, we had umbrellas and raincoats and were anticipating the worst.
My expectations of Cornwall were coloured by books. I imagined a landscape of castle ruins overlooking steep cliffs, and thick woods, like those that were once the roaming grounds of the fabled King Arthur and his knights. I also envisaged the treacherous and moody moors and smugglers’ caves that backdrop Daphne du Maurier’s strong-willed heroines. Then there are the rocky shores and wild winds of Poldark. Of course, Cornwall is also home to charming and picturesque fishing villages, like the fictional Portwenn – home of Doc Martin.
The county lived up to my expectations: it rained most of the time we were there. We had a real challenge getting our suitcases up and down various eternal stairways from the car and through the rain cloud that enveloped us to find our room in the rambling, loose collection of old buildings that was our hotel. (It really pays to travel light anywhere in Europe: unless you stay in sterile, nondescript chain hotels, chances are pretty good that you’ll be carrying your bags a lot further than you expect!) When we went down to breakfast in the morning, the restaurant was full of grumpy golfers who were missing their tee-times because the course was engulfed in fog. We literally could not see out of the windows.
The fog made our days more difficult, but we had only limited time so we carried through with our self-driving sight-seeing plans in spite of reduced visibility. Land’s End was only 7 miles (11 km) away, but it took us much longer than the suggested 20 minutes to get there!
Golf in the Fog It was ten o’clock on a July morning on the Cape Cornwall Golf Course before the fog had lifted sufficiently for the golfers to find their carts.
Land’s End Highway markers tell you when you reach Britain’s Land’s End. (I actually took this shot as we were leaving; I don’t think we even saw the markers when we were driving in!)
Land’s End Arcade Perhaps it is knowing that the weather can be inclement that causes the British to turn features of interest into arcade-type ‘attractions’.
Pathway to the End of the World … It certainly feels as if we are on the edge of nowhere.
“Dangerous Cliffs” The fog ebbs and flows: when it lifts for a moment, we can just see the waves crashing on the rocks below.
Merry Maidens Our next stop, only twenty minutes away, was at a late neolithic stone circle known as Merry Maidens or Stone Dance.
Merry Maidens Stone circles – like this one of 19 granite megaliths – may be common across the British Isles, but they are still magical.
One of the Merry Maidens According to local mythology, each of the stones represents one of nineteen maidens who was petrified for dancing on a Sunday. Two more megaliths some distance away are said to be the pipers who were playing for the young women.
The Coast off Mousehole As we continue our journey east along Cornwall’s south coast, the skies clear somewhat, and we get wonderful views over the delightful fishing village of Mousehole (pronounced Mawzel).
Mousehole Streets All but a local pub in the village was destroyed in the Spanish raids of 1595. Even so, the streets are narrow: winding around blind corners and up and down steep hills.
Mousehole Port Until the 16th century, Mousehole was one of the principal ports on Mount’s Bay.
Mousehole Wharf Today, the sheltered harbour is a haven to small boats …
On the Beach … and holiday-makers. British beach-goes will brave all kinds of weather to get outdoors.
Mousehole Rooftops
St Pol de Léon’s Church Less than five minutes up the road, we had to stop again: the little Paul Parish Church looked just too charming to ignore.
Headstone Headstones provide such an insight into history: this one from the late 1800s honours a master sailer and his wife, who both lived to age 69, but whose two children died in infancy.
Celtic Cross The Cornish people can trace their roots back to the ancient Celtic Britons. This (and other) churchyard features some beautiful Celtic crosses.
Truro The spires of the Gothic Revival Cathedral of the Blessed Virgin Mary rise above the streets of Truro into surprisingly blue skies as we pass through.
Mud Maid The Lost Gardens of Heligan are 200 acres of Victorian gardens that were only rediscovered twenty-five years ago. The mud sculptures in the garden, however, are contemporary works. This one, The Grey Lady by Susan and Peter Hill, was installed in 2007.
Landscape around Pentewan Breaks in the forest give us views over the Cornwall coast.
Green Foliage After the morning’s fog and rain, the greenery is almost blindingly bright in the late afternoon sun.
Undergrowth In a steep-sided valley, ferns and a profusion of warmth-loving plants grow in their own microclimate.
Traditional Charcoal Burner In Cornwall, metal drums were used to burn wood anaerobically to make charcoal. This one was used to produce the charcoal for an art installation: “Growth & Decay” by James Eddy.
Glass House Like every good Victorian garden, the Heligan Gardens have a large glass house to explore.
The Giant’s Head Probably the best known attraction in the gardens is The Giant’s Head mud sculpture commissioned in 1998 to Cornish artists Sue and Pete Hill.
St. Neot Church I couldn’t resist an evening stop at the beautiful Norman church at St Neot, …
Inside St. Neot Church … and a peek inside at its wonderful medieval stained glass windows.
Jamaica Inn Before we crossed the Tamar River out of Cornwall, we had to stop at the notorious smugglers’ inn on Bodmin Moor for Cornish pasties.
The rains followed us as we left our visit to Cornwall behind.
Earlier this year we spent a day in Falmouth – and we got to explore Cornwall in full sunshine (see: Another English Spring), and the countryside felt completely different.
As I said before, weather makes all the difference.
Barred Eagle Owl (Bubo Sumatranus) With its focused gaze, its deadly beak and claws, and its side-ways pointing ear tufts, the barred eagle owl is a force to be reckoned with!
Birds are captivating creatures. With their diverse and colourful plumage, their wide-ranging shapes and behaviours, and the improbability of their flight, they are magical to watch.
I’ve commented before that I have neither the patience nor the equipment to be a proper birdwatcher. But, watch them I do. Whether it is when I’m just sitting on my balcony under trees full of honeyeaters and lorikeets and overlooking an estuary teeming with cormorants, black swans, spoonbills and pelicans, or when I’m on my travels, I find my heart lifts when birds (or other wildlife) catch my eye.
So, when the opportunity to get a little closer to our feathered friends presents itself (e.g.: Flamingo Gardens and On the Perch), I tend to jump at it. A couple of years ago, my husband and I were in Bali, Indonesia, celebrating an anniversary. We’d had a few weeks of immersing in the food and culture: we’d browsed through markets and shops; we’d walked and bicycled through countless rice terraces; we’d admired the beaches; and we’d visited innumerable temples. We were back in Denpasar after criss-crossing the island, and it was time to relax before the flight home the next day; a visit to a local bird park seemed like the ideal low-stress activity.
And it was! The Bali Bird Park, just a half-hour drive from our accommodation in the city, was the perfect day out. The beautifully maintained park is is divided into different zones that house the 250 species of birds in natural habitats recreated to match their origins. These zones focus on the South-east Asian region (Bali, Borneo, Papua, Java and Sumatra), but also include birds from Australia, South Africa and South America. The park features numerous walk-through aviaries, and various birds roam the grounds freely.
We made sure to catch the “Birds of Prey” and the “Bali Rainforest” free-flight demonstrations and took part in several of the feedings that are conducted daily, and we did, indeed “marvel” as the park’s brochure suggested we would. This was a relief – as we’d visited Turtle Island the day before and found it an exceedingly depressing experience. More about that some other time, but in short: I had asked to go to the Turtle Conservation and Education Centre, Serangan – which is a WWF-auspiced facility, but we got “diverted”. This happens in Asia!
The tag-line for the Bali Bird Parkis: “Where Birds and People Meet”.
So, come along and meet some birds.
Magnificent Macaw As soon as we enter the park, the birds are there to greet us.
Those Reptilian Eyes! It is so easy to see the links between birds and their reptilian cousins!
Can You See Them? Caging full of native habitat can leave the visitor at a disadvantage …
Can You See Them Now? … until their eyes adjust, and the birds come into view.
Bali Myna (Leucopsar Rothschildi) Once we knew where to look, we were able to admire the beautiful Bali starlings. Critically-endangered, these birds are Bali’s only endemic vertebrate species.
Common Hill Myna (Gracula Religiosa) Common hill mynas always strike me as uncommonly beautiful.
Australian Pelicans (Pelecanus Conspicillatus) Even if I am kayaking, I never get this close to the pelicans at home. These are the same birds that live in my estuary, but I had no idea they had blue feet!
Introducing “Basic Instinct” A young park staffer introduces the Birds of Prey Show to an audience that is seated and waiting in the bleachers.
Ready to Launch Up in the tower, a handler is ready to launch a white-breasted sea eagle.
Victorious! The white breasted sea eagle has snatched a moving “fish” from the pond, and stands on it, …
White Breasted Sea Eagle and Handler … until its handler comes to carry it away.
Macaws and Handler The macaws also get in on the act, circling overhead before landing on a keeper’s arm.
Sea Eagle
Moustached Parakeet (Psittacula Alexandri Fasciata) Also known as the Java mustached or red-breasted parakeet, this beautiful little bird is endemic to the area from the Himalayas to southern China and Indonesia.
Glossy Ibis – Plegadis Falcinellus The most widespread of the ibis species, this beautiful bird is a far cry from the Australian ibis, ignominiously known as “the bin chicken”.
Hornbill and Visitor A male wreathed hornbill (Rhyticeros undulatus) shares a laugh with my husband – after trying to extract his pen from his top pocket.
Wreathed Hornbills (Rhyticeros Undulatus) These beautiful birds mate for life. The male has the yellow throat pouch; the female’s is blue.
Knobbed Hornbill (Rhyticeros Cassidix) Native to Indonesia, the Sulawesi red-knobbed hornbill is another of the fascinating hornbill varietals.
Feeding the Fowl We headed back to the green in front of the restaurant in time for more bird feeding.
African Crowned Crane – Balearica Regulorum The grey-crowned cranes are are part of the park’s successful breeding program: how cute is the little chick hiding between their legs!
Rhinoceros Hornbill – Buceros Rhinoceros This large forest hornbill flew through its paces for the park visitors.
“Duck Girl” The park is a very hands-on environment: a young visitor is invited to feed the birds.
Moluccan King Parrot (Alisterus Amboinensis) After coffee and bird-feeding, we returned to the Papuan walk-in aviary to enjoy more exotic birds.
Green Snake Our last stop was in the Toraja House, modelled on those built in South Sulawesi. The dark interior is home to nocturnal owls and other creatures.
We greatly enjoyed meeting the birds – and their keepers – in this beautifully maintained park.
In the Bowl of the Roman Theatre In Cartagena, Spain, ancient ruins of a Roman Theatre (built between 5 and 1 BC) were once lost to memory under a 13th century cathedral. Today, the archaeological excavations and restorations contrast with the skyline of a thriving, modern port city.
I was never very good at history at school: I could never remember the names and dates required.
Walking around European cities, with layers of history in the stones around me or under my feet: that is a completely different story. Bearing witness to the slow march of people over time into new regions of the globe, and watching the marks they leave behind – or trying to find the traces of memories left without indelible imprints – that is the kind of history I’m fascinated by.
Cartagena, a port city and naval base in southeast Spain, is an example of the living, breathing history that captivates me. The site was originally founded by the Carthaginians around 220 B.C., and it was known to them (and their Roman contemporaries) for its natural port and its proximity to rich silver mines. The Romans conquered the city in 209 B.C. and named it Carthago Nova (New Carthage) after the original Carthage, the capital of the Phoenician empire over Northwest Africa. Over time, the city was: pillaged by the Goths, ruled by the Moors, destroyed by Ferdinand III of Castile in 1243, restored by the Moors, and finally taken for what is now Spain, under James I of Aragon in 1269.
As a modern commercial port, Cartagena now competes with nearby Barcelona, Málaga, and Alicante. Its ongoing naval activities are augmented by tourism As one of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe, the city now has two docks for cruise ships.
I was glad to be part of the growing numbers of visitors to the city. We were on a small cruise boat that was stopping in at various ports around the Mediterranean and Atlantic, and were happily lacing up our walking shoes for a bus trip through the old silver mines and across Murcia, and a walking tour around Cartagena itself.
Come along for a trip through layers of time.
The Port of Cartagena One of the joys of being on a boat, is approaching cities from the water. Cartagena has been a leading naval port in the Mediterranean since the 18th century, but today the importance of tourism is growing.
The Docks We get a bird’s-eye-view of the activity on the docks …
Mooring … as we come into berth.
Shore Crew Another beauty of being on a boat is that a lot of the planning work is done before we arrive: I’ve pre-selected the shore excursions we will participate in, and the local guides are organised and ready.
Gateway to Arsenal Our bus trip across the city takes us past the gateway to Arsenal. This has nothing to do with the famous football club – as it turns out – but is one of the oldest naval bases in Spain.
Modernist Spanish Architecture The modernist architecture of Spain may not be to everyone’s taste, but it is never dull!
Waves of Tiles Designed by local architect Rafael Braquehais in 1987, the Assembly of Murcia building in Cartagena is a classic example of Gaudí-influenced waves of colour and form.
El Algar: Small Town Murcia We are not long out of the city before we are driving through the old silver-mining regions of Sierra Minera de Cartagena and La Unión.
Mining Equipment These hillsides full of silver, which once lead to the wealth of the area, are now almost barren: dotted with dry scrub, loose scree, and abandoned buildings and equipment.
Cape Palos Architecture And then the landscape and architecture change again, as the the modern developments of the municipality of Cape Palos line the hillside between us and the Mar Menor.
The Fruit Gardens of Murcia The sea comes into view, and the flatlands beside us are lined with rows upon rows of covered fruit and vegetables.
Cabo de Palos Cape Palos is on the skinny strip of land of La Manga del Mar Meno; high-rise buildings make the most of available space.
High-Rises and Long Lines
Old Tower Ruins – Cape Palos
Faro de Cabo de Palos We were here to visit the lighthouse of Cape Palos; …
Cabo de Palos … more impressive for the views over the Mediterranean …
Cape Palos … and the surrounding municipality …
Cape Palos Lighthouse … than for the simple building and 54 meter-high light-tower, first lit in 1865.
Flowers on the Rocks
Cartagena City Hall Back in the city, we leave our bus …
Cartagena Flags … to walk past city hall …
Roman Pottery … and into the Roman Amphitheater & Archeology Museum.
Visitors to the Museum The Roman Theatre Museum, designed by Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo Vallés, steers groups of visitors through the story of this amazing archaeological find.
Guide and the Columns
Roman Column
In the Bowl of the Roman Theatre Somehow, a 6,000-seat Roman Theatre lay forgotten and undiscovered for more than 2000 years! The ruins were found again in 1990, and the subsequent archaeological excavations and restorations were completed in 2003.
Guide among the Roman Ruins
The Structure of the Ruins Cross-sections give us insight into the ancient stonework.
Santa María la Vieja Cathedral Little remains of the cathedral that was built on the ruins of the theatre in the 13th century. The Cathedral of Santa Maria La Mayor was destroyed in 1939, during the Spanish Civil War.
Shrine Catholicism lives on in the south of Spain: a new cathedral was built on a different site, and shrines are everywhere.
Lines and Angles The angular fencing around the ruins is in stark modern contrast to the soft curves of the stonework inside.
Palacio Consistorial de Cartagena Too soon we have returned to the town hall – designed by another local modernist architect, Tomás Rico Valarino – and are making our way back to our boat.
It was a fascinating teaser into a region with a rich cultural and architectural history. Given the opportunity, I’d go back to explore in more depth.
[…] – watch this space!) and the south of France (see: Ancient History: Nîmes) and Spain (see: Layers: Cartagena and Málaga) brings history to life, and makes me marvel at the magnitude of Roman […]ReplyCancel
A pastoralist group originating in the Nile Valley, the roughly 7,500 Nilo-Saharan Mursi live in an isolated corner of southwestern Ethiopia, close to the border with South Sudan. Even today with improved roadways, their villages are remote: I was on a Piper Mackayphotographic tour with a small group of photo-enthusiasts under the direction of photographer Ben McRae, and we had climbed into our Toyota Land Cruisers before dawn to undertake the bumpy two-hour drive from the nearest market town of Jinka, across Mago National Park, and into Mursi lands.
This remoteness probably helps the Mursi maintain their Animist religion and traditional rites of passage. Mursi women are among the few remaining tribes to continue to wear lip plates: I’ve shared pictures of these before (see: Meet the Mursi). According to accounts, Mursi men engage in ritualised violence in the form of ceremonial stick fighting (thagine).
We did not observe the stick fighting, but we were invited to participate in a young man’s first blood-letting: a dramatic ceremonial piercing of a cow’s neck artery so that the blood can be drunk. The injury is plugged up again after a bowl of blood has been taken, and the cow takes off – relatively unharmed – as soon as it is released.
“Pay-for-click” tourism has been an integral part of visiting the Omo Valley for many years, and in a way it encourages the tribes to maintain some of their traditional trappings. But it also makes the experience of visiting villages purely transactional, rather than friendly and mutually curious. I’ve commented before about how confronting I found the whole concept of bartering for every photograph, and the Mursi people have a reputation for being particularly “aggressive”. Still, this was our last day in the tribal regions, and I had a bundle of money and a “cloak of confidence” that made me proof against extortion: if you are not careful, the price-per-photograph can double in the course of a session!
Fortunately, I managed to avoid the arguments that happen regularly between villagers and visitors, and more importantly, managed to not get shot by one of the automatic weapons that are everywhere and seem to be tossed around rather cavalierly. I was not afraid of being an intentional target, but I am surprised that accidents don’t happen more often!
Come meet the men of the Mursi – all of them proud warriors.
Man with a Gun Tribal law rules these lands: this is frontier territory, on the border with South Sudan, from whence cattle raiders will cross to try and take your prized livestock. Revenge killings are not uncommon, and young men earn their scarification “stripes” by killing their enemies.
Mursi Man The Mursi are a tall, proud people with “an aggressive reputation”; I never felt at risk, but I didn’t manage to raise many smiles. The dry, dusty climate makes for a lot of sore eyes.
Nilla Headdress These headdresses – made of two warthog (Phacochoerus africanus) tusks joined with iron fittings to a leather headpiece – are popular among men and women, and are even made to decorate cattle.
Mursi Man in a Nilla Headdress
Young Man in Headdress All the elements of the headdress look heavy …
Metal and Leather … and I never succeeded in getting an explanation (if there is one, outside of ornamentation) of the different components.
Men with a Staff and a Gun I found the casual way with which weapon were handled rather alarming. Fortunately, it would seem many of them are not loaded; guns are cheap but bullets are expensive!
Mursi Man in Tusks
Close Shave Razors are a valuable commodity as many men (and women) shave intricate designs into their hair.
Young Mursi Man There is an intensity in these young men …
Young Mursi Man … that is palpable even before you see the extensive scarification.
Off to the Blood-Lettting We’d only been in the village just over two hours, and it was still mid-morning. But the sun was high: pulsating light and radiating heat. Following the men to the cattle pens made for a nice diversion, even though I felt anticipatory dread over what was to come.
To Catch a Cow First, a cow who hasn’t been bled recently …
To Restrain a Cow … must be caught and restrained.
Mark a Spot The bowman palpates an artery on the cows neck for piercing.
Spurting Blood
Catching the Blood The spurting fresh blood is caught in a gourd …
Plugging the Hole … before the hole in the neck is plugged …
Drinking the Blood … and the blood is drunk by the participants.
First Time I don’t think the young lad enjoyed it much!
Warrior The elder, however, sits tall with pride.
Post Blood-Letting The men who have shared the cow’s blood rest after their exertion. The cattle must be used to this treatment – once let loose, they are unfazed.
Mursi Man and his Weapon We returned to our vehicles, where – against a black cloth and with a soft box – I make another Mursi warrior portrait.
It is certainly not an easy life!
I was pleased to have had a glimpse into a very foreign world, but I won’t pretend I even begin to understand it.
[…] have posted some of the pictures I “bought” in this Mursi village (see: The Mursi and Mursi Men). One of the biggest problems I had was the transactional nature of the exchanges, and the fact […]ReplyCancel
Wild Brumby at Three Mile Dam Is there anything more beautiful than a wild horse? An estimated 6,000 brumbies – feral horses – roam free across the Australian Alps in Kosciuszko National Park.
My idea of a great New Year’s party is a trip into nature.
The bonus of being “down under” is that the New Year break falls in the height of summer. I escape to Kosciuszko National Park to enjoy fresh air, summer alpine flowers, and some quiet contemplation.
Early into one New Year, we decided to drive a little further afield from our Jindabyne base, and check out the Goldseekers Track in the Selwyn area of Kosciuszko National Park. The weather was clear and hot – very hot – so the easy 3km loop track was just what the doctor ordered after all the excesses of the festive season.
The Big Trout – Adaminaby Australia loves its “big” monuments to local produce and regional highlights. The drive to the Selwin area took us through the small town of Adaminaby, where we stopped to picnic-lunch and admire the “Big Trout”. (iPhone6)
Historic Sawyers Hut There are around two hundred historic huts dotted around the Australian Alps – some dating back to the 1860s. They were built by graziers, gold miners, foresters, government workers, skiers, and bushwalkers to provide temporary shelter. They are still left unlocked for emergency use, and are stocked with matches and a small amount of dry firewood and kindling. Most are in remote locations, but Sawyers Hut caught our eye from the car, and was an easy stop. It was originally constructed in the early 1900s, but was rebuilt after the bushfires of 2003. (iPhone6)
Wild Brumbies in a Field of Flowers I was thrilled to see a herd of brumbies in a nearby meadow as we parked our car.
Brumby in a Field of Wildflowers Although these magnificent animals roam the alpine country freely, I haven’t seen them often, and never this close!
Wild Brumby at Three Mile Dam I followed them at a discrete distance on foot as they went down to the water to drink. Because they are considered a threat to the delicate native ecosystems and are not indigenous animals, their management – particularly control of their numbers – is subject to vigorous debate.
Goldseekers Track Setting off on a new track is always an adventure!
Buttercups The wildflowers were taking advantage of the glorious summer weather, blooming in clumps at our feet, …
Lilies in the Meadow … or in delicate clouds all around us.
Pale Vanilla Lily (Arthropodium Milleflorum)
Sign-Posting Sign posts introduce visitors to the region’s highlights.
Snow Gums (Eucalyptus Pauciflora) and Black Sallee (Eucalyptus Stellulata)
Alpine Shaggy-Pea Bushes (Podolobium or Oxylobium Alpestre) Bees hum in the heat, and the bush smells beautiful all around us.
Lake Eucumbene At a vantage point on the track, we can see Lake Eucumbene, the largest storage lake in the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Scheme, in the distance.
Dandelions and a Fallen Log
Water-Operated Battery Stamper An old stamp mill, used to crush rock-embedded gold by pounding it, …
Water-Operated Battery Stamper … sits derelict and rusting.
Dead Machinery
Yellow Flower
Billy Buttons (Craspedia Globosa)
It was a most enjoyable circuit. I think there is no better way to start a new year off right!
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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We greatly enjoyed meeting the birds – and their keepers – in this beautifully maintained park.
