.jpg) Girl on a Boat
Life marches to a different rhythm in the Middle Sepik region of Papua New Guinea. Perhaps it is the heat in the leaden air, but the torpor is palpable under the rising sun. There are places where you can truly “get away from it all” – away from the trappings of modern life: phone and internet coverage, electricity and running water, roads and basic infrastructure …
Of course, you have to get there; and then, unless you are hardy enough to stay in the wilds forever, you have to get back again!
The Middle Sepik region of Papua New Guinea is a long way from most of what is familiar to me. It is not away from humanity, however: people are scattered around the region in small, familial communities that come together occasionally, by foot or by boat, for trade or for cultural exchange.
And that is why we were there: with a small group of photo-enthusiasts under the guidance of photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours, I had travelled by plane and bus and boat to partake in the Sepik River Festival, a richly rewarding local sing sing of music and dance (see: A Black and White View, In the Little Spirit House, Preparations for the Dance, and Invitation to the Dance).
But, the dancing was over, and I was over-heated – and covered in itchy spots in spite of wearing long sleeves and bug repellent. What you can’t escape in the middle of PNG is the unremitting heat, hanging like a wet blanket and sucking the oxygen out of the air, and the relentless hum of biting pests – including the mosquitos responsible for malaria, Japanese encephalitis, and dengue fever.
Truth be told, as much as we enjoyed our stay in the little village of Kanganaman in the Middle Sepik (see: Welcome to the Spirit House and Crocodile Men), most of us were looking forward to our boutique accommodation in Wewak, with hot showers in the ensuites, cool linen on the beds, and a selection of fresh food and alcoholic drinks in the bar.
It was time to move on!
Of course, when you are days from “anywhere”, moving on poses its own challenges. Join me for a languid – but not entirely smooth – boat trip down the Sepik River.
.jpg) The Girls’ “Dorm”
We are packed and ready! The accommodation for our two-night stay in the village was in a three-room elevated bamboo hut: women on one side, men on the other, with a common-room in the middle. We had a rain-water tank for washing, and a pit toilet a short walk away. The mattresses were clean and comfortable, but, as hot as it was outside, it was even hotter under the mosquito netting … and you had to be careful not to fall through the woven flooring. .jpg) Boy in a Dugout
We have a short walk over grassy “roads” to the riverbank. Our boat has not yet arrived, and the river is quiet; I guess the crocodiles are sleeping. A single boy is on the water in his dugout canoe.  The Dugout Canoe
It seems we have disturbed the calm; … Boy on the River
… the young lad poles his dugout upstream away from us. Young Men on the Shore
A number of villagers have joined us on the riverbank as we wait for our transport. “This T-Shirt is Illegal”
These remote regions of PNG are mostly Animist, but Christian missionaries have been all over the island, so I am not overly surprised to see a T-shirt printed with a gospel message. Then again, it may be a hand-me-down, and the text may not reflect the owner. “Hurry up and Wait!” Boy in a Tree
One of the young lads climbs up to a higher vantage-point. Smiling Boatman
Finally! Our two dugout log boats with their noisy outboard motors arrive, and we pile in with our bits and bags and set off downstream.
Unfortunately, our boatman is not smiling for long: our motor coughs, sputters, and dies. We have no phone reception and the walk-talkies don’t seem to be working. We send the other boat (and its passengers) off with the request for a new motor, and continue to limp downstream … Father and Child
… until we reach a small settlement with a couple of boats tied up at the shore. Where there are boats, there are bound to be motors!
In an irony like something out of the 1999 American war movie Three Kings, Karl has managed to reach a contact in another country using his satellite phone, and has asked that the request for a new motor be relayed downstream. Mother and Child
We are well off the tourist trail here, so we are a bit of a curiosity to the villagers. Mother and Child
The pigmentation mutation that results in blond babies in remote Australia is obviously present here as well. People on the Shore
Word got back to the little village pretty quickly: before long we had a lot of “helpers” supervising the removal of the faulty motor … A Borrowed Motor
… while the borrowed motor is being brought down to the water. Young Man Woman and Children
While the motors are being swapped, a family is washing in the river. Middle Sepik Village
Finally, we are back on the move. The woven houses we pass along the shore are extremely modest – but quick to build. The Bridge
Eventually, the boat got us back to the meeting point with our bumpy bus. Half way along the dirt track to Wewak, we again come across a missing bridge. The gaps in the planks seem even wider than they did when we passed before! I couldn’t believe the bus would make it. Fanning the Food
We make a brief stop at the Maprik Market that I’ve written about before (see: Market Portraits), … Sausages and Plantains
… and once again I admire the wild colours of the sausages! In Flight
After a hot shower, a good meal, a drink (or two), and a comfortable sleep, we were on a plane to Port Moresby. In the Holiday Inn in Port Moresby, we could have been anywhere in the world. But, we all knew, when we met for dinner, that we had truly been “away from it all” at the back of beyond – and it had been special!
Here’s hoping that your travels are memorable, even if they are not always smooth!
Until next time,
Happy Wandering!
Photos: 15August2017
Posted in environmental portrait,Papua New Guinea,TravelTags: boats,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,Midddle Sepik,Papua New Guinea,Photo Blog,Sepik River,transportation,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Little Steven
Some performers continue to bring energy and colour to their stage performances – no matter their age. Little Steven, American musician, songwriter, producer, actor, and original member of Bruce Springsteen’s E Street Band rocked both his Bluesfest sets. There are those who get cynical when older musicians tour: “Are they broke – are they taking advantage?”; “Can they still sing/play? I heard they are just going through the motions!”. I prefer to be more optimistic, and think that my musical heros continue to tour because they love their music and they love performing.
In an entertainment column: Old rockers never die – they just tour forever, and ever, and ever…, New Zealand writer Grant Smithies examines why so many ageing artists are visiting the Antipodes. He lists the negative impact of downloading and streaming on album sales among the contributors, but also looks at “the baby-boomer nostalgia market.”
That’s me. A nostalgic baby-boomer.
As much as I enjoy dipping into the new musical experiences on offer at festivals, I also love how relaxing it is to lean back into something familiar. Music can take us back to a time and place – I know exactly where I was when I first heard “Alice’s Restaurant” and can describe the room I was in and the people I was with in great detail. And seeing those iconic, beloved performers on stage gives an illusion of connection – it’s like we have a shared history. Add to that my huge admiration for creative people: those who shape our culture rather than merely ride it, and you have a recipe for fandom.
These beloved elders of music have a creative dilemma: the fans want to hear the “old hits”; anything new had better not be too different and unfamiliar, but also had better not be too similar and derivative!
This year’s annual Easter long weekend Byron Bay Bluesfest included some real iconic “old timers” (local Australian and imported American) in it’s extensive line-up. I was thrilled when they played the songs I recognise and love – and did it with zest and passion. They might be older, but they are not diminished.
Come meet a few!
Arlo Guthrie
I was excited when Arlo Guthrie was listed in the early announcements for this year’s Byron Bay Bluesfest. For me, his name is symbolic of a whole era – a time of hope and protest and promise. Alice’s Restaurant Massacree
Almost hidden under his hat, his between-song story-telling demonstrated that his humour had not been dulled by time. For the benefit of a younger, non-American audience, Arlo included explanatory asides in his classic, 18-minute story-song, the “Alice’s Restaurant Massacree”. Arlo and Abe Guthrie
Arlo performed twice at Bluesfest, and I couldn’t resist returning for more stories. Like his father Woody Guthrie – one of the most significant figures in American folk music – Arlo’s songs are mostly protests against social injustice. Music clearly runs in the family: Arlo’s son Abe is on the keyboard in the background. Russell Morris
Once considered a “pop star”, with five Australian Top 10 singles during the 1960s and 1970s, Russell Morris is a story-telling blues-rocker who just keeps getting better with age! Little Steven and the Disciples of Soul
One advantage established “old timers” have is performance and production experience: they often have extensive backing-bands. Backup Singers
The 15-piece ensemble travelling with Little Steven included three matching backing singers in bell-bottoms, long fringes, and over-sized wigs. Little Steven
While his vocals may not have subtlety, there is no denying his energy or enthusiasm. Little Steven and the Disciples of Soul
Little Steven is one of those multi-talented people who clearly perform because they want to, not because they have to! Among other things, he runs a multi-disciplinary classroom program, bringing popular music and music history to schools. I remembered his face from his run as strip-club owner Silvio Dante in the Sopranos. The Black Sorrows
Classic Australian blues-rock band The Black Sorrows always makes me think of that movie: The Commitments. The difference, of course, is that founder: singer-songwriter and multi-instrumentalist, Joseph Vincent Camilleri, is a working musician with a number of on-going projects. Joe Camilleri, Claude Carranza, and Mark Gray
These are musicians who clearly love what they do – and their joy is infectious. Crossroads Tent
The “Godfather of Punk” still draw a crowd: my iPhone can’t even find Iggy Pop up there on the stage! Iggy Pop
Long known for his bare-chested stage antics, Iggy has impacted garage rock, punk rock, hard rock, art rock, new wave, jazz, blues, and electronic music. Iggy Pop
Bluesfest is family-friendly, so there were no overly-outlandish theatrics, but Iggy has lost none of his energy: he and his blond locks were all over the stage. Tommy Emmanuel
This was the one I was waiting for! A classical, jazz, and country guitarist known for his complex fingerstyle technique, this gifted and charismatic Australian has been working as a professional musician since the age of six. “Best Acoustic Guitarist” – Guitar Player Magazine (2010)
Tommy Emmanuel is one of only four fingerstyle guitarists to whom Chet Atkins awarded the title of “Certified Guitar Player”. Tommy is also a Member of the Order of Australia (AM). One-Man Band
Emmanuel uses his guitars like a one-man-band kit, wearing them out with his dynamic percussive techniques – including the use of a snare-drum brush. He is impossible to resist: I tapped and nodded and smiled the whole performance through. Keb’ Mo’
Old-fashioned country blues singer-songwriter-instrumentalist Keb’ Mo’ is the very definition of smooth. Heavily influenced by another one of my favourites (who didn’t make Bluesfest this year), Taj Mahal, four-time Grammy-Award winner Keb’ always makes me smile. The Backsliders
One of my favourite local blues bands, The Backsliders have impeccable credentials: guitarist, vocalist and award-winning songwriter Dom Turner has a number of albums and live musical projects dating back to forever… Drummer Rob Hirst was a founding member of Midnight Oil, amongst other things. They are always great fun to listen to and to watch. Paul Kelly
Another stalwart of the Australian music landscape, Paul Kelly always draws a crowd. Although considered a “rock music singer-songwriter, guitarist, and harmonica player”, his countless albums cross musical boundaries, and he has also been influential in helping younger musicians find their feet. These musicians are all at least as old as I am, and their songs – even the new ones – have a comfortable familiarity. As Grant Smithies observes: “We care because this music meant something to us when we were younger; their songs make us forget our own rapid journey towards the grave and plug us back into more carefree times.”
Perhaps the British singer Lemmy Kilmister said it best: “If you think you are too old to rock ‘n roll, then you are.”
And, if you don’t think you are too old, keep rocking!
Till next time,
Let’s dance!
Photos: 18-22April2019
Posted in Australia,Music,PerformanceTags: Australia,Bluesfest Byron Bay,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,low light,music,musicians,performance,performers,Photo Blog,Ursula Wall
Monkey Chorus in Uluwatu
It’s an extraordinary scene: as the light falls over the cliffs of Uluwatu and over the visitors from all around the world, we listen to the sound of the rising wind and the amazing a cappella clicks and rhythmic chanting of the central “monkey-chorus”. The unique Balinese Kecak performance of the Ramayana story has begun! Bali is real a treat for the visitor: the landscape is beautiful and harmonious, the food and coffee are delicious, and the people are friendly and welcoming.
And, in spite of the number of tourists that stream into this tiny Indonesian vacation paradise, somehow the people of Bali have managed to preserve and cultivate their distinctive version of Hindu traditions.
Dance and drama are integral to guarding the traditional cultural stories and developing modern artistic expressions firmly rooted in the past: “In Bali, dance and drama are interchangeable: age-old dance-drama stories are depicted through precise, stylised movements: movements that include defined body-shape and placement; finger, hand and arm gestures; and the quick, bird-like motions of the neck, head and eyes. The makeup and costuming are as much a part of the ancient traditions as the dances themselves.”
We had enjoyed a number of different Balinese dances (see: Legong and other Balinese Dances) during our stays on the island, but somehow had missed out on what is reputedly the “best known” Balinese dance: the Kecak – pronounced “kechak”. Like many Hindu and Buddhist art forms, the story is taken from part of the Ramayana, the holy book about seventh avatar of the god Vishnu, Lord Ram or Rama. The segment of the Ramayana featured in the Kecak Dance is the kidnapping of Rama’s beloved wife Sita by the demon-king Ravana, and the efforts of Rama and his brother Lakshmana to retrieve her. This is where Lord Hanuman, the monkey god, enters the story, and helps in the rescue.
Unlike other Balinese dances, the Kecak does not use a gamelan-orchestral accompaniment. It is named for the “chat-a-chak-a-chak” sing-song made by the chanting men in the chorus. This relatively modern format (developed in the 1930s) is built on the age-old Balinese Sanghyang traditions of sacred trance dances which are only performed as part of religious ceremonies.
Uluwatu Temple, one of Bali’s principal Hindu sea temples (Pura Segara), is possibly the most iconic place to enjoy the Kecak Dance. Named for it’s location, the Pura (temple) Luhur (sublime) sits at the Ulu (edge) of a 70-meter-high (230 ft) Watu (cliff or rock). It is also renowned for its magnificent sunsets.
We weren’t favoured with much of a sunset, but at least we weren’t drenched by the rains we’d experienced at Tanah Lot, the other popular Western sea temple, which we had visited the week before (see: Chasing the Sunset).
Grab a sarong – modest dress is required in all Balinese temples – and join me for a Kecak dance performance.
Old Woman at the Coffee Shop
We’d had a long drive, and a morning on the waters around Nusa Dua (more on that some other time), so I was in need of a rich, Balinese coffee before we went into the temple grounds. The shop-owner’s mother was gracious enough to pose for me. Gnarled Tree in the Courtyard
The temple grounds are tidy, dotted with shrines, and shaded by ancient trees. Visitors to Uluwatu
The grounds of the cliff-side temple overlook the Indian Ocean. To the Temple
The views, the cliffs, … On the Edge (Ulu) of the Cliff (Watu)
… and the walkway stretch out in both directions. Puru (Temple) on the Edge (Ulu)
The tiny tiered temple is dwarfed by the seventy-metre cliff and the endless, rolling seas and skies. Macaque on the Banister
The walkways are the domain of the monkeys, who have learned to steal anything they can get their hands on: phones, eye-glasses, hats, wallets. They might – if you are lucky – be persuaded to return your valuables in exchange for food. Macaque on the Steps
Temple attendants have been unable to stamp out this thievery; new monkeys introduced to the area learn the behaviour very quickly, and so it continues. One snatched a small coin purse that was attached to my camera bag – a weak chain is no match for a naughty monkey! Pura Uluwatu
As we walk down the path (holding onto our hats and glasses), we get a better view of the temple itself. Temple Gardens
The light is falling as we make our way towards the dance arena, … Tourists in the Temple Grounds
… alongside visitors in “borrowed” sarongs. Lighting the Fires
As the audience file in and find seats in the bleachers, a Hindu priest makes offerings and lights the lamp flames. Introducing the Program
A woman introduces the program. From where we are seated, we can’t understand a word she says, but we have a printed handout, so hopefully we’ll have a sense of what is going on. The Monkey Chorus
The monkey-chorus, making continual rhythmic percussive vocal sounds, form a tight circle around the flaming lamp. Their longyi are fashioned from the ubiquitous black-and-white checked poleng cloth which symbolises the balance of the universe. The attached short video clip I took with my phone is not great quality, but it shows Rama and Sita entering, and gives a taste of the remarkable sounds the Monkey Chorus makes. Just click the link!
The Golden Deer
Rama is seen hunting a golden deer that he and Sita came across in the forest. Unfortunately, the golden deer is really the shape-shifting demon-king Ravana, who covets Sita; Rama disappears, and the trouble begins! Garuda
The story gets rather convoluted: Sita has sent Rama’s brother Laksamana in search of Rama; she is left alone in the forest, where Ravana, the mythical multi-headed demon-king who we last saw in the shape of the golden deer, tries to kidnap her; he then disguises himself as an old man and tries again. Her cries for help are heard by the Garuda, who fights for her, but his wings are injured, and Ravana wins. Hanuman
Meanwhile, Rama and his brother Laksamana have reunited, and when they meet Hanuman, the monkey commander of the monkey army, they enlist his aid in rescuing Sita. Trijata
We’ve seated ourselves high up in the bleachers, in the hope of a sunset over the cliffs. Each time we blink, the monkey chorus changes formation and there are new characters on set! Trijata is the niece of the demon-king Ravana. Hanuman Returns
The sky darkens – without any of the colour we had hoped for – and Hanuman returns to help rescue Sita. He poses for the cameras of the work-group who are travelling together on a team-building holiday. Giant of Alengka Pura
Of course, nothing goes smoothly! The servants of Alengka Pura (???) enlist giants to punish Hanuman; … Hanuman Captured
… they try to burn him, but he – naturally – escapes and punishes them. Rama and Sita Reunited
Rama and Sita are reunited, and live happily… until the next chapter… The Ramayana epic poem in its entirety is some 24,000 verses long, with parts of the text dating back to the 7th century BCE. It is an allegory of Hindu teachings, and as such, underpins culture and art throughout India, Nepal, Sri Lanka and much of South-east Asia. I’ve seen segments presented through cartoon, dance, shadow-puppets and marionettes; the stories are everywhere.
This is a unique presentation of a much-told tale.
Even with the ever-present wind and the threat of rain, the backdrop was magnificent, and the slow-moving, elegant Balinese dance style against the trance-inducing “chat-a-chak-a-chak” of the monkey chorus was mesmerising.
We left bewitched.
Pictures: 04February2017
Posted in Bali,Culture,TravelTags: Bali,dance,hindu,hinduism,Indonesia,Kecak,performance,Photo Blog,religion,Religious Practice,temple,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Māmā Mihirangi and the Māreikura
Sounds weaving like a dream… Māmā Mihirangi’s vocals and electronic loops waft through the huge Crossroads tent at the Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019, seamlessly blending ancient Māori culture into modern performance art. There is nothing quite like a Māori haka to get your festival day started!
(Double click for: Māmā Mihirangi & The Māreikura – E-Te-Ariki)
The music clip attached is a prayer: E te Ariki – “Lord”, but the Aotearoa (NZ) Māori artists and activists Māmā Mihirangi & The Māreikura had started the set – first up on the last day of the five-day Easter-long-weekend Byron Bay Bluesfest – together in a haka for the female descendants of the Mother Goddess. It got my blood pumping and cheered me up enormously!
I love that Bluesfest Byron Bay includes First Nations music in its program in two ways: firstly, by defining “blues and roots” music broadly enough to include a smattering of traditional music from around the world; and secondly, by concurrently hosting the three-day Boomerang Festival.
The Boomerang Festival is billed as a “global indigenous arts & culture event aimed at Aboriginal access for audiences wishing to engage with a quality, unique, true Indigenous experience.” First launched in 2013, it includes music, dance, crafts, story-telling, visual arts, and healing.
As a Bluesfest participant, I have access to as many of the Boomerang activities as I can fit into my broader festival experience: I always sample some of the music and dance (eg: Boomerang 2016; Back to the Roots; Australian Guitars and Strings; Blues Women Rock; Songs of Joy and Protest).
This year was no different: I revisited some old favourites and found a few new ones.
Do join me!
Boomerang Flags
Around the sandy dance-circle and high over the tent-tops, Indigenous flags fly in honour of the Boomerang Festival of Indigenous arts and culture. Tibetan Singer behind Barbed Wire
It seems symbolic somehow, to see displaced Tibetan musician, Tenzin Choegyal, looking small as he sits singing and story-telling in the sand-circle. Rako Pasefika
I have enjoyed these wonderful performers before (see: Boomerang 2016). Originally from Rotuma, a volcanic Fijian island, the group was formed to safeguard and share cultural practices. Rako on Percussion
As artisans of the Pacific, they also practice and teach traditional skills including bark cloth (Tapa/ Masi) printing, making coconut sinnet (Magi magi) and weaving. These aptitudes are reflected in their instruments and costuming. Rako Pasefika Dancer
On Saturday afternoon the weather changed, … Dancing in the Rain
… but the onset of rain couldn’t dampen that smile … Conquest
… or diminish the power of the dance. Hips Swinging
Rotuma is at the crossroads of the Micronesian, Melanesian, and Polynesian cultures, and the influence can be heard in the musical rhythms and seen in the dance and costume styles. The Queen of Cool
Billed as the “Queen of Loops”, Māmā Mihirangi produces contemporary Māori music, blending ancient chants and traditional harmonies with modern instruments and stories. A Māreikura
The Māreikura are Māmā Mihirangi’s traditional female dancers … Traditional Weaponry
… who performed the haka I mentioned in my introduction, and demonstrated symbolic uses of traditional weapons. Poi Dance
Poi dancing is a longstanding Maori tradition. Poi and the Māreikura
Wahine (female) dancers perform with the poi to improve their flexibility, strength and coordination, … Ferocious Feminine Power
… but it is not hard to imagine poi being used as weapons! Māmā Mihirangi
The whole performance (which, as you can tell by the changes of costumes, I attended twice) was delightfully engaging. Malu Kiai Mura Buai – Shark Bait
Meanwhile, back at the sand circle, a dance troupe performs a story about shark bait. Malu Kiai Mura Buai – Shark Bait
Originally from Boigu Island in the Torres Strait, this traditional dance group is based in Brisbane. I love watching the little ones shadowing their elders, … “Baby Shark”
… but all I could think of was the annoyingly-repetitive children’s song “Baby Shark – doo doo doo doo doo doo.” Girls of the Malu Kiai Mura Buai
Two days later when I was at the sand circle, the young women were preparing to perform … Welcome Flower
… their welcome song and dance. Welcome Dance Malu Kiai Mura Buai Warrior
After the Welcome Dance, the men return to wave their spears … Warrior Spirit
… and show off their warrior spirit. Dobby
Only 24, rapper, drummer and workshop facilitator, Dobby, is a recent recipient of the prestigious Peter Sculthorpe Fellowship for composition. Identifying as Filipino and Aboriginal, Dobby is an accomplished musician, with a delightfully enjoyable stage presence which carries his clever lyrics and powerful messages. Tenzin Choegyal
Outside in the sand circle, Tenzin Choegyal – a regular Boomerang participant – sings his original songs expressing pain over the loss of his Tibetan homeland and cultural heritage. One of his songs, a prayer based on the 8th Century classic text: The Tibetan Book of the Dead, is attached below. (Click for Safe Passage from the album Heart Strings by Tenzin Choegyal)
Tenzin Choegyal
The audience was silent and self-reflective as they listened with rapt attention. Benny Walker
Another Boomerang-return favourite, Benny Walker, a Yorta Yorta man from regional Victoria, is easy on the ears and eyes. “Dad Jokes” and Beautiful Songs
I returned for another set the next day; I just love listening to his rich voice and slow, bluesy rhythms. “Stay in my Arms” deserves to be a love classic. Mojo Jujo
Award-winning Mojo Juju Ruiz de Luzuriaga’s most recent R’n’B/hip-hop/soul album tells stories of her Filipino–Wiradjuri family heritage. Drummer Steve “T-Bone” Ruiz de Luzuriaga
Drummers don’t feature in many photos because they often hide behind their kit out of the lights at the back, which was why I was so pleased to find Mojo Juju’s brother lit in such an interesting manner … Mojo Juju
… when I caught a second set on the last day of Bluesfest. The Mission Songs Project
Jessie Lloyd, with her Mission Songs Project, was a fitting end to my experience of this year’s Boomerang Festival: in the 1900s, Aboriginal people were taken out of their traditional communities and relocated into church-run “Mission” settlements and state-run native camps. Deline Briscoe, Jessie Lloyd, and Emma Donovan
Jessie has spent over two years traveling, researching, and collecting the songs that the Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people in these settlements, reserves, and native camps, sang about their daily lives. With some of Australia’s finest musicians, she has been singing these songs around the country in what are extremely moving performances.
And that is the beauty of music, isn’t it?
It builds bridges across time and culture, and helps bring “the other” closer to “us”.
And, it makes us feel.
To the music!
Posted in environmental portraits,Indigenous,Music,PerformanceTags: Australia,Boomerang,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,indigenous,l Ursula Wall,music,musicians,people,performance,performers,Photo Blog,portrait,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Prayers
Ethiopia is one of the oldest Christian states in the world. The Entoto Maryam Church is probably the oldest building in use in the vicinity of Addis Ababa; it was full of active worshippers when I visited. “And King Solomon gave the queen of Sheba all that she desired, whatever she asked besides what was given her by the bounty of King Solomon. So she turned and went back to her own land with her servants.”
– 1 Kings 10:13
Ethiopia – and its capital Addis Ababa – is the quintessential paradox.
According to an Ethiopian account from the 14th century, the visit of Makada, Queen of Sheba to King Solomon of the House of David, some time in the 10th century BC, resulted in a son – who grew up to become Menelik I, founder of the dynasty – at first Jewish, then later Christian – that reigned over the Empire of Ethiopia for most of the years from around 950 BC through to the overthrow of Haile Selassie in 1974. More than that, it is claimed that when Menelik visited Jerusalem as a young adult, King Solomon gave him a replica of the Ark of the Covenant; somehow, this was switched with the original – which is reputedly still in Axum, Northern Ethiopia.
Scholars may argue some – or all – of the details of this legacy, and the Ethiopian government and church may refuse all requests to see the alleged ark, but the story has had important and lasting effects on Ethiopian culture and psyche. There was no room for doubt in the mind of the young man who introduced me to the many precious early Christian artefacts in the small museum in the grounds of St George Cathedral in Addis Ababa.
On the other hand, my guide was quite skeptical about the origins of the remains of Lucy, the original Australopithecus afarensis, found in Ethiopia’s Afar Triangle in the Great Rift Valley in 1974. I’m old enough to remember when the results of that momentous find were publicised. I also remember watching the Leakey’s earlier explorations of the neighbouring regions (Dr Leakey and the Dawn of Man, 1966), and reading African Genesis (1961) by Robert Ardrey. So, I was very excited to visit the National Museum of Ethiopia in Addis Ababa, where a replica of Lucy – thought to be our 3.2 million year-old Hominini ancestor – is on display.
Ethiopia is home to over 80 different ethnic groups and about 90 individual languages; almost 2 million people practice traditional faiths – making it even harder to reconcile the differing “stories” of humanity. But, the country was the second to officially adopt Christianity (after Armenia) – as early as 324 CE. Today, while the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church (a branch of Oriental Orthodoxy) is no longer distinguished as a state religion, it remains the major influence.
The number of Ethiopian Orthodox churches that dot the city – and are included in a city tour – are testament to this.
The heritage of – and reverence towards – Emperor Haile Selassie (1892-1975 – reigned: 1930-1974) is another conundrum. Also known as Ras Tafari Makonnen, he established Ethiopia’s constitution, implemented the legal basis for the abolition of slavery in Africa, and led Ethiopia to become a charter member of the United Nations. Revered as the returned messiah by the Rastafari religion originating in Jamaica in the 1930s, he enjoyed prestige and respect among world leaders – while also being condemned for poor human rights – until he was deposed and imprisoned in 1975.
A visit to a former palace, which Haile Selassie gave to University College of Addis Ababa in 1961, and which now houses the Ethnographic Museum, is also included in the city tour that I had organised for myself.
I was in the country for a photo-tour of the Omo Valley that was meeting up in the evening: the only sensible flight I could organise had me arriving at the airport before seven am. That gave me too much “down-time” to waste, but not enough to acclimatise properly, so I booked a day trip around the city, rather than trying to explore on my own.
This provided a small sampler of what the city has to offer.
Entrance to Entoto Maryam Church
The charming octagonal Maryam (St Mary) Church was built around 1882 by Menelik II while he was Negus of Shewa. It sits at 3200 meters above sea level, on the peak of Mt Entoto, just outside Addis Ababa. Robes and Crowns
The yard in front of the church entrance was full of people, some in robes and crowns, … Turbans and Robes
… others in robes and turbans. Turbans and Maqwamiya
The prayer staffs (maqwamiya) that these men carry are symbolic of Christ’s body, as it came down from Heaven, and as it was lifted up in resurrection. They can be tucked under the arm as a support (as He supported people on earth), and are banged on the ground to maintain chant- and song-rhythms. Prayers and Songs
It was a Sunday, so I was not surprised to see so much activity – but I was told this was part of a wedding celebration. I was very generously invited into the centre of the action … Photographer
… even though a local photographer was clearly on the job. Young Boy
Everyone was wearing their Sunday best. I love the colourful embroidery on the young lad’s collar: typical of Ethiopian fabric ornamentation. Senasel – Sistrum
Like the maqwamiya (prayer staffs), the senasel (sistrum) are as symbolic as they are rhythmic. The front and back represent Jacob’s ladder and the angels, the sides are the old and the new testaments, and iron pieces inside symbolise the five pillars of the church. Priest Chanting
The chants and prayers are performed in Geʽez – a South Semitic language dating back to between 4 and 10 CE – rather than in Amharic, which is the main language spoken in the country. Musicians
Of course, a drum is not just a drum: a large kebero or hand drum, is used for the liturgical music. The drum is the body of Jesus, with the narrow end representing His human nature, and the wider end being His divine nature. Smaller kebero drums are used in secular celebrations. Addis Ababa from Mount Entoto
Sitting at an altitude of 2,355 m (7,726 ft), Addis is the fourth-highest capital city in the world. From here on Mount Entoto (3200 m), we can look down over the city. It is mid-October: the rains are finished and the humidity is low; dust and pollution hang in the air, obscuring the skyline. St. Mary’s Church
I spotted this lovely entry-arch on our way up the hill, and persuaded my guide to stop on the way back down. The blue dome is typical of Coptic Orthodox buildings. Congregation outside St. Mary’s Church
Obscured by the darkness under the arches, the priest delivered a Sunday sermon to his gathered flock. Local Textile Market
Further down the hill we stop at a local market … Mannequin
… to admire the finely woven cottons decorating the well-worn mannequins. Haile Selassie Finery
Selassie gave his Guenete Leul Palace to the local university; some of the rooms have been preserved in honour of him – while others are now the Ethiopian Ethnological Museum. Ethiopian Coffee and the Herb Rue
The next stop was at a street-side coffee shop, where we sat on rickety stools enjoying rich, dark coffee with rue (Ruta graveolens). Lugging Loads
After a visit to Lucy in the National Museum of Ethiopia, and a lunch of injera – the local staple: a spongy pancake-like bread made from teff, a native grain, and filled with meat and/or vegetables and spicy sauces, I persuaded my guide to take me to a local vegetable market. Man in the Potatoes
He was quite surprised when many of the local vegetable-sellers were happy to have their pictures made. Loads in the Road Veggie Sellers
It was dark inside the sheds, but the people were friendly – regarding me with curiosity. St George Cathedral
My last stop was at St George Cathedral, one of the oldest cathedrals in Addis Ababa. It was commissioned by Emperor Menelik II following his 1896 victory over the Italians in Adwa, and finished in 1911. St George
Emperor Menelik II dedicated the church to St George, Ethiopia’s patron saint. Coptic Cross
According to local lore, St George was an Ethiopian, born in Palestina: at that time a country ruled by the Moors. St George Cathedral from Outside
I was lucky enough to be able to look through the museum on the St George Cathedral grounds. No photos are allowed in the small building crammed full of precious religious iconography, but my guide was in his element – and determined to explained every artefact in great detail. Before long my head was spinning! I blamed it on jet-lag, and called it a day.
 I still can’t come to grips with the legends, the beliefs, and the complex history of the Ethiopians.
But, they sure make great coffee!
Happy Travels.
Photos: 14October2018
Posted in Africa,Christianity,Ethiopia,History,TravelTags: architecture,Coptic Orthodox,environmental portrait,Orthodox,Photo Blog,religion,Religious Practice,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
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