The Minarets from Minaret Vista, California USA

The Minarets from Minaret Vista
High in California’s Eastern Sierras, the Minaret Vista (2,824 m – 9,265 ft) allows you to lookout over the Ritter Range and the jaggedly-sharp peaks of the Minarets (right hand side) in the Ansel Adams Wilderness.

The Eastern Sierra region of California is well known for its magnificent scenery, encompassing unique desert valleys, rugged alpine peaks, vestigial salty inland seas, and lakes of crystal glacial origins. 

With millions of acres reserved within national parks, national monuments, state forests, and local reserves, much of it is considered ‘backcountry’, obtainable only by means of long hikes, climbs, skis, snowshoes, horseback, or all-terrain vehicles. 

But, some of it is so accessible it almost feels like cheating!

The name “Eastern Sierra” is given to California’s Mono and Inyo Counties, nested in the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada, a mountain range whose very name (Spanish: sierra “jagged mountain range” and nevado “snowy”) speaks to its wildness. This is sparsely populated country with a youthful population and a plethora of outdoor activities.

I was staying with a friend at her place in Mammoth Lakes, on the eastern side of the lava dome complex that is Mammoth MountainCalifornia’s highest ski resort. We had driven past the entry to the Minaret Vista lookout the day before on our short drive west to the Devils Postpile, where we took the hike to Rainbow Lake (see: The Devils Postpile), before walking around Agnew Meadow (see: Wildflowers). We passed it again, on our way back to the starting-point for the gondola to the top of Mammoth Mountain (see: Wildflowers).

But, on this morning, we drove 15 minutes directly to Minaret Vista – and the views were right there!

Sitting on the back side of Mammoth Mountain, Minaret Vista is billed as the highest drivable lookout in the Mammoth Lakes area. You don’t have to leave your car for extensive views over the Ritter Range, a sub-range of the Sierra Nevada mountains. The most impressive of these are the jagged pinnacles of granite, named ‘The Minarets’ in 1868 by the California Geographical Survey.

Of course, we did get out of the car: dragging our tripods to the outlook, and wandering around the mountainside to appreciate the rocks and flora.

Do come along:

Minaret Vista signpost, Mammoth Mountain, CA USA

Minaret Vista
Just a short drive from the Mammoth Mountain Inn, there is a well-marked turn-off for the viewpoint. (Phone5)

Indian paintbrush and sulphur-flower buckwheat, Minaret Vista, California USA

Summer Wildflowers
Clumps of Indian paintbrush (Castilleja) and sulphur-flower buckwheat (Eriogonum umbellatum) dot the viewing area.

Sun flare through a tangle of wood, Minaret Vista, California USA

Morning Sunburst
It is just after 7.30 in the morning, and the sun angles low through the tangled plant-life.

Pine trees on the ridge, Minaret Vista, California USA

Pine on the Ridge
Lodgepole pines (Pinus contorta) – also known as twisted pines – command the ridge.

Detail: Lodgepole pine pollen cones, Minaret Vista, California USA

Pollen Cones
Lodgepole pines have both pollen cones – which these are – and seed cones.

Brewer

Brewer’s Lupine – Lupinus Breweri
Because of the altitude, many of the plants stay low to the ground, …

Wildflowers on the rocky ground, Minaret Vista, California USA

Rocky Ground
… clinging to the gravelly plateau as the jagged peaks of the Minarets float off into the distance.

Alpine flowers in the gravel, Minaret Vista, California USA

A Colourful Palette

Sulphur-Flower Buckwheat – Eriogonum Umbellatum

Dog on the mountainside, Minaret Vista, California USA

Chip
The views extend over the mountains across the valley.

Alpine shrubs in rough rock, Minaret Vista, California USA

Blue Skies and Red Rocks
Nature does a better job than any landscape gardener …

Alpine shrubs in rough rock, Minaret Vista, California USA

Rock Garden
… when it comes to mixing subtle colours and creating beautiful spaces.

Sagebrush and Indian paint brush, Minaret Vista, California USA

Sagebrush and Indian Paint Brush

Alpine shrubs in rough rock against a blue sky, Minaret Vista, California USA

Lichen on the Rough
The rough rocks make a great canvas for multi-coloured lichens and low-growing alpine plants.

Alpine shrubs in rough rock against a blue sky, Minaret Vista, California USA

Mountains behind the Ridge

Views over mountains and lakes, Minaret Vista, California USA

View from the Minaret Vista
Mountains and lakes roll off in all directions.

Butterfly mariposa lily, Minaret Vista, California USA

Butterfly Mariposa Lily – Calochortus Venustus
These areas are home to a number of unique plants, endemic to the region …

Butterfly mariposa lily blossom, Minaret Vista, California USA

Butterfly Mariposa Lily – Calochortus Venustus
… like the beautiful Leichtlin’s mariposa, native to the Sierra Nevada.

Twilight over Mammoth Lakes, California USA

Twilight over Mammoth Lakes
In the evening, on the other side of Mammoth Mountain, we watch the twilight darken over Mammoth Lakes

Moonrise over a bluff behind Mammoth Lakes, California USA

Mammoth Moonrise
… and the half-moon rise over the bluffs behind us.

Truly a magnificent landscape!

Until  next time,

Happy travels!

Pictures: 16&18July2013

Hindu priest performing the Gange aarti, Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi India

Ritual Flames
Varanasi is an ancient and sacred city imbued with religious symbolism. At the holy Dasaswamedh Ghat, young priests perform the Ganga aarti every evening at sunset.

(Click for: Ganga Aarti : Sacred Hindu Chants)

It is said that Lord Shiva, one of the Trimurti, the Hindu trinity, created the city of Kashi (Varanasi) with his hands. That is why Varanasi, one of India’s seven holy cities, is said to be the country’s spiritual capital.

The holiest parts of this sacred city are along the ghats – the stairs – leading down to Ganges, the river known in India as the goddess Ganga Ma or “Mother Ganges.”

I was captivated: the dry heat was uplifting, the air was electric, and the people were both fascinating and welcoming (see: Life on the Ghats).

For devout Hindus, Varanasi is a centre devoted to the cycle of life and death.

Reincarnation is a key belief within Hinduism. All life goes through birth, life, death, and rebirth, in the cycle of samsara; when a living being dies, its atman (inner self or soul) will be reborn or reincarnated into a different entity, depending on its karma from its previous life. However, if one is lucky enough to die in Varanasi and to be cremated on one of the two designated ghats: Manikarnika Ghat or Maharaja Harishchandra Ghat, one achieves moksha—liberation from reincarnation and direct entry to nirvana.

Even if you don’t die in Varanasi, if you have bathed in the Ganges there – especially on auspicious days – you will be washed of your sins, giving you a better starting point for the next life.

As the sun sets in Varanasi, the Ganga Aarti is performed at Dasaswamedh Ghat. An aarti is a devotional ritual that uses fire as an offering; a form of Ganga Aarti takes place every evening at three holy cities on the Ganges: Haridwar, Rishikesh, and Varanasi. The one in Varanasi takes about 45 minutes, and is a colourful, highly choreographed, and beautiful ritual of worship dedicated to River Ganga, Surya – the setting sun, Agni – the fire and Lord Shiva.

It was the high point of my first day along the Varanasi ghats, and an experience that has stayed with me since.

Wood, scales and a goat on Harishchandra Ghat, Varanasi India

Wood and Scales
The funeral pyres on Harishchandra Ghat are a smoky reminder of life’s limits. A traditional Hindu funeral pyre needs six hours and 500–600 kilograms (1,102–1,323 pounds) of wood to burn a body completely – and clearly the keepers of the sacred fires measure this out carefully.

Wood and a goat on Harishchandra Ghat, Varanasi India

Woodpile and a Nanny
A goat with her full udder is like a symbol of new life as she walks past the funeral wood. I watched a few families as they sent one of their relatives off. We were asked not to photograph the actual pyres – and respected that request – but a Dom community member (the sect of hereditary undertakers) was happy to explain the rituals surrounding the cremations as they happened.

Portrait: Holy Person in a Yellow Turban, Harishchandra Ghat, Varanasi India

Holy Person in a Yellow Turban
On a balcony in the building next door, …

Portrait: Holy Person in a Yellow Turban, Harishchandra Ghat, Varanasi India

Religious Contemplation
… a holy person sits in in quiet contemplation.

Temple Kedar Ghat, Varanasi India

Kedar Ghat
A little further north, Kedareshwar Temple rises in all its colourful glory.

Curving Ganges waterfront, Varanasi India

Ganges Waterfront
The river curves off into the hazy distance …

Boats on the Ghats, Varanasi, India.

Boats on the Ganges
… with beautiful wooden boats lining the edge.

Colourful homes, Narad Ghat, Varanasi India

Colourful Homes – Narad Ghat
Between the palaces and temples, domestic buildings rise in a colourful tumble.

Hindu man in a checked dhoti, Varanasi ghats, India

Man in a Checked Dhoti
People from all walks of life are seated on the steps below.

Water buffaloes and a common crow, Ganges, Varanasi Ghats, India.

Water Buffaloes and a Common Crow

Two portraits: Sadhus in orange on the Varanasi ghats, India

Sadhus in Orange
The sadhus are endlessly fascinating. I quickly discovered that sharing a cup of masala chai (spiced tea) with them was a great icebreaker.

Bicycle in a Varanasi laneway, India

Bicycle in a Laneway

Women in a the doorway of a Varanasi house, India

Women in a Doorway
In the streets behind the ghats, …

Chai wallah seated in a Varanasi street, India

Chai Wallah
… everyday life goes on.

Blue wooden boats on the Ganges, Varanasi ghats, India

Blue Boats
I loved the wooden boats on the foreshore of the Ganges.

Blue and red wooden boat on the Ganges, Varanasi ghats, India

Blue and Red Boat
Their colours and textures were wonderful.

Portrait: Elderly man in a white hat, Varanasi ghats, India

Elderly Man in a White Hat

Portrait: seated barefoot man with white hair, Varanasi ghats, India

White Hair and White Beard

Boats and bathers at Dashashwamedh Ghat, Varanasi India

Dashashwamedh Ghat
As the sun drops lower in the sky, the last of the bathers in the waters finish up …

Two Portraits: Indian woman and Indian girl, Dashashwamedh Ghat, Varanasi

Mother and Daughter
… and spectators of all ages find seats on the ghat where the Ganga aarti will soon be performed.

Preparations on the Dashashwamedh Ghat, Varanasi India

Twilight Preparations
The priests of Gangotri Seva Samiti set the stage for the Ganga aarti on Dashashwamedh Ghat.

Ritual candelabra, Candelabra

Candelabra

Religious trinket stall, Dashashwamedh ghat, Vanasi India

Religious Trinkets

Tourists after dark in a boat off Dashashwamedh Ghat, Varanasi India

Watching from the Water
Many spectators opt for a seat in one of the boats in the river. I was lucky: an Indian woman who had scored an excellent position level with the priests invited me to sit with her and her family.

Portrait: Child with big eyes, Dashashwamedh Ghat, Varanasi India

Big Eyes

Portrait: Female flower seller,Dashashwamedh Ghat, Varanasi India

Flower Seller

Flower Offerings, Dashashwamedh Ghat, Varanasi India

Flower Offerings
The sellers have prepared offerings that can be lit and set afloat for the Mother Ganges.

Composite: priests performing the Ganga Aarti, Dashashwamedh ghat, Varanasi India

Bells and Flames
The Ganga Aarti starts soon after sunset and lasts for about 45 minutes. Once the young pandits have prepared all the necessary paraphernalia, they sit in meditation. Then, they start a chant of mantras while circling small flames and ringing brass bells.

Composite: priests performing the Ganga Aarti, Dashashwamedh ghat, Varanasi India

Bells and Incense
The fragrance of incense permeates the still-warm evening air, and the chime of bells continues.

Composite: priests performing the Ganga Aarti, Dashashwamedh ghat, Varanasi India

Bells and Smoke
The bells are said to create an ‘auspicious sound’ which aligns the chakras, and the incense represents a purified state of mind.

Pandits with multi-tiered brass lamps performing the Ganga Aarti, Dashashwamedh ghat, Varanasi India

Ceremonial Brass Lamps
An aarti is essentially a Vedic fire ritual, using fire as an offering to the Goddess Ganga. Once lit, the multi-tiered brass lamps are impressive.

Priests waving yak-tail fans during the Ganga Aarti, Dashashwamedh ghat, Varanasi India

Like Feathers
Towards the end of arati yak-tail fans (chanvar) are waved to send the element of air back to its source.

Children on the steps of Dashashwamedh ghat after dark, Varanasi India

Kids on the Steps
The children in the audience are as transfixed as I am.

priests performing the Ganga Aarti, Dashashwamedh ghat, Varanasi India

Bowing Down

Portrait: Indian woman, Dashashwamedh ghat, Varanasi

Woman on the Ghats
When the last notes die down, I say a heartfelt thank you to the lovely woman who, after arriving an hour early on the ghat to secure her spot, so generously shared it with me.

With the drone of the music still ringing in my ears, and the soft smell of incense clinging to my skin, I walked back to my room in a happy daze.

Varanasi gets into your soul.

It certainly captivated me, and shifted my perspective on life. And death.

Photos: 09April2010

Aerial view of Uluru under the strut of a small plane, Yulara NT Australia

Uluru under the Strut
Glowing red in the afternoon light, that magic sandstone monolith at the heart of Australia rises up 348 m (1142 ft) out of the surrounding plains – and extends even further underground.

In these days of rolling lockdowns and seriously curtailed travel, flying feels like a thing of the past.

But, last year in October, I managed to get on not one, but two different airplanes in the space of a few days.

Like most travellers with international itineraries, I was flattened in 2020 when Covid-19 pulled the rug out from under all my plans, and left me – and everyone else in Australia – self-distancing at home. Now, eighteen months later, international borders are still effectively closed and interstate travel within the country is severely restricted.

But, there have been small windows of opportunity, and I managed to squeeze a package deal to the Ayers Rock Resort in the red heart of Australia into one of these openings (see: Weekly Wanders Yulara).

It’s a three-hour and twenty-minute flight from Sydney to Ayers Rock/Connellan Airport in Yulara, Northern Territory: it is easy to forget how big Australia actually is! It felt strange walking around the unusually quiet Kingsford Smith Airport, mindfully keeping my mask on and skirting around others at a respectful ‘social’ distance. Of course, once on the airplane, we were packed in like sardines, as per normal on a low-cost airline! Deplaning took forever, as everyone had to ‘prove’, via bank statements, etc, that they hadn’t been in any declared areas of concern.

This part of the Red Centre – the vast, red, sandy plain in central Australia –  is formally recognised by UNESCO World Heritage for both its natural and cultural values. It has been home to the Indigenous Anangu people since Dreamtime, and features in countless ancient stories they have handed down explaining the origins and nature of the “spectacular geological formations” that are found here. For, rising out of a red landscape that is flat and empty out to the horizons in all directions, are two incredible ancient rock formations: Uluru, the 348 m (1,142 ft) high sandstone monolith, and Kata Tjuta, the 36 domes of conglomerated sand, pebbles, and cobbles.

Both these timeless and magnificent formations are contained within the Uluru-Kata Tjuta (formerly the Uluru (Ayers Rock – Mount Olga)) National Park, which is jointly managed by the Anangu people – the traditional owners – and Parks Australia

It was just after lengthy lockdowns and the resort was quiet without the usual international visitors. The Anangu Cultural Centre was off-limits to us ‘outsiders’ to protect the small Indigenous community from possible infection. So, I booked everything else I could get my hands on. I didn’t have to think twice about taking advantage of the scenic flights available over the area! After all, it had taken me a long time to get there – it might be a long time before I was back.

On the day of my arrival, I wandered through the Field of Lights. The next day, I explored the resort, taking in a talk on bush tucker and other activities (Watch this space!), and went for a sunset camel ride. I watched the sunrise and walked into the Walpa Gorge in Kata Tjuta, and I planned to walked around the base of Uluru the day after my sunset flight. (Watch this space!)

It is amazing how different these magnificent rock formations are in every light and from every angle! Join me in the air:

Young pilot standing outside a brightly decorated Ayers Rock Scenic Flight airplane, NT Australia

Pilot Chris
Chris welcomes us to the brightly decorated, Australian-manufactured, Gippsland Aeronautics G8.

Young pilot at the door of an Ayers Rock Scenic Flight airplane, NT Australia

Safety Briefing
Before we board, Chris shows us how to operate the doors in an emergency.

Ayers Rock Scenic Flights Cessna, Ayers Rock (Uluru) Airport tarmac.

Ayers Rock Scenic Flights
I was originally booked on the little Cessna sitting on the Ayers Rock (Uluru) Airport tarmac.

Helicopters at tAyers Rock (Uluru) Airport, NT Australia

Helicopters at the Airport
It’s that time of day: all the scenic flights are out. After we clear the runway, two helicopters take off below us.

Aerial view of Uluru in the evening, Yulara NT Australia

Uluru
The 500+ million year-old sandstone monolith, known variously as Uluru and Ayers Rock, rises dramatically out of the vast red desert plain.

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa, Yulara NT Australia

Kata Tjuta
Chris wants to make the most of the last available light, so we make our way to Kata Tjuta – 25 km (16 mi) east of Uluru – first. (iPhone6)

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa, Yulara NT Australia

Kata Tjuṯa Domes
In Pitjantjatjara, one of the two principle Aboriginal languages in this region, Kata Tjuṯa means ‘many heads’.

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa, Yulara NT Australia

Kata Tjuta and Uluru
The 36 conglomerate domes that make up what is also called the Olgas were formed roughly 600 million years ago and stretch across almost 22 square kilometres (8.37 sq mi). Uluru looks small in the distance.

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa, Yulara NT Australia

Kata Tjuṯa / Mount Olga
I had enjoyed sunrise over these domed rock formations and walked in amongst them that very morning (see: Walpa Gorge); they look very different from the air.

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa, Yulara NT Australia

Kata Tjuta under the Wing
The local Aboriginal Anangu people have lived in this area for more than 22,000 years, and since 1995 Kata Tjuta is being used again for cultural ceremonies. There are many Dreamtime legends (creation stories) told here, but because this is a place of sacred ‘men’s business’, most of them are not disclosed to outsiders – particularly women.

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa, Yulara NT Australia

Shadows on Kata Tjuta
The light drops quickly, and the shapes of the boulders soften as we move away.

Aerial view of Uluru under the strut of a small plane, Yulara NT Australia

Golden Light
When we turn back towards Uluru, the lowering sun sets fire to the wings of our plane, …

Aerial view of Uluru under the wing of a small plane, Yulara NT Australia

Uluru in Colour
… and turns the red plain purple.

Waves of red sand and rock from the air, Yulara NT Australia

The Red Centre
Between 500 and 400 million years ago, this whole area was covered by a sea. It is easy to imagine, as we look at the waves of arid sand and rock below.

Aerial view of Uluru, Yulara NT Australia

Uluru in the Afternoon Sun
All of Uluru is sacred to the local Pitjantjatjara, but some parts are more secret than others: out of respect, pilots do not overfly certain parts of the rock.

Aerial view of Uluru, Yulara NT Australia

Uluru in the Last Light
As we fly closer to the darkening rock, we can see the closed Aboriginal community of Mutitjulu behind it.

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa at sunset, Yulara NT Australia

Like a Dream
In the other direction, Kata Tjuta fades into the clouds …

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa at sunset, Yulara NT Australia

Kata Tjuta from the Air
… and silhouettes against the darkening sky.

Aerial view of Kata Tjuṯa at sunset, Yulara NT Australia

Sunset
OK – it’s not the best sunset shot I’ve ever made, but it’s the best ‘sunset over Kata Tjuṯa from the air’ shot I could manage!

Aerial view of Uluru from Ayers Rock Airport, Yulara NT Australia

Twilight over Yulara and Uluru

Ayers Rock Airport runway from the cockpit, Yulara NT Australia

Touchdown!
All too soon, it is getting dark, and we are back on the ground.

I was still floating on air when I got back to the resort in time for dinner.

Text: Happy TravelsI do love small planes – and these rocks are magnificent.

Just magic!

 

Photos: 25October2020

Goatherders silhouetted at sundown, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goatherds at Sundown
Every day, Kara boys and men bring the goats back into the Dus Village compound for the night. The older males carry their AK-47s to protect the precious herds against wild animals and marauding rival tribes.

Life in for the semi-nomadic Kara (Karo) people in Ethiopia’s Omo Valley is simple – simple, but not easy.

There is no electricity and no running water. The people live in dark, circular huts made from sticks and grass. Tradition dictates one’s place and ritual determines one’s behaviour. Every day, the women grind sorghum on large stones to make meal for the staple diet of porridge. And, every day, the boys and men look after the precious goats.

Tsetse flies, which spread African Trypanosomiasis – or ‘sleeping sickness’, are prevalent in the region. So, the Kara focus on goats and sheep, which are less vulnerable to the illness than larger livestock. They do keep a few cattle, but that meat is reserved for special occasions.

The Kara are a small group who maintain friendly, symbiotic relations with the neighbouring and loosely-related Hamar, Banna, Dassanetch, and Arbore tribes. However, they cultivate ongoing animosities with the Mursi and Nyangatom: the Nyangatom live across the Omo River, occupying territory the Kara believe is theirs, and bloody skirmishes are not uncommon.

For this reason, and for the protection of the herds, every young man must own an AK-47 before he is allowed to marry. He is expected to demonstrate his ability to protect his village, his family, and the herd that represents his wealth.

Like the other Omo Valley ethnic tribes, the Kara are happy to earn money from tourists who come to photograph their creative body- and face-paint, and to learn about their daily practices and customs. But, the three little Kara villages are hard to get to, even by Ethiopian standards. Grand Holidays Ethiopia organised and set up a mobile campsite, complete with generators and portable showers, so that our group – travelling with photographer Ben McRae on a Piper Mackay tour – could stay several days in the heart of Kara territory in comfort.

This proximity had allowed us to visit the largest Kara settlement, Dus Village, a number of times. Sadly, it was our last full day there. After a morning of portraiture (see: Tribal Portraits), I was off to make a second attempt at capturing the daily activity of bringing the goats home at sundown (see: Men and Goats and Dust).

Join me in the dust of the plateau above the beautiful Omo River:

A Kara man with an AK-47 and a baby goat watches a herd, Dus Village Ethiopia

A Gun and a Baby Goat
The gentle way in which this man is carrying a baby kid belies his status as a proven warrior: his feathered clay cap tells us he has been responsible for a kill of an enemy or dangerous animal in recent times.

Kara Warrior with a Kid
I don’t know why this kid is being so tenderly carried, when the rest of the herd walks.

Young Kara goatherd in golden afternoon dust, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kara Goatherd
A young lad in body paint uses a switch …

Kara goats in golden afternoon dust, Dus Village Ethiopia

Herding Goats
… to keep the precious herd moving.

Young Kara goatherd in a striped wrap, Dus Village Ethiopia

Kara Goatherd in Stripes
Barefoot and bare chested, the young goatherds in their body paint and wrap skirts …

Young Kara goatherd in a striped wrap, Dus Village Ethiopia

Young Kara Goatherd
… keep the goat herd together and compact.

A Kara man with an AK-47 watches a goat herd, Dus Village Ethiopia

Warrior with Goats and an AK-47
In spite of the prevalence of Kalashnikovs – and warriors who have demonstrated their deadliness – I never felt remotely at risk with these people.

A Kara man with an AK-47 watches a goat herd, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goatherd with a Kalashnikov

Silhouetted goats and goatherd in the afternoon, Dus Village Ethiopia

Silhouetted Goatherd
As the afternoon sun drops in the sky, …

Silhouetted goats and goatherd in the afternoon, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goatherd at Sundown
… the goats and the goatherd are silhouetted in the last light.

Silhouetted goats and goatherd in the afternoon, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goatherd and Goats
The late afternoon sun creates interesting lighting effects.

Goats in the dust on the plateau, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goats in the Dust
The animals are quite large, and many have beautiful markings.

Silhouetted goats and goatherd with his gun and stool in the afternoon, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goatherd with his Stool
The men in the Omo Valley all carry their small stools carved from acacia wood; these are also used as headrests when the men are out with the flocks.

Goats on the plateau, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goats on the Plateau
Looking back away from the sun, the herd is bathed in afternoon light.

Silhouetted goats at sunset, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goats at Sunset

Silhouetted goats and goatherd in the afternoon, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goats like Scherenschnitten
As a child, I was fascinated by scherenschnitten: German scissor-cut outlines in black paper. As I lay in the dust, watching the herd silhouetted against the evening sky, I was reminded of that traditional art.

Silhouetted goats and goatherd in the afternoon, Dus Village Ethiopia

Guns and Goats
The evening sun sends its last rays over the horizon.

A goatherd with his gun and stool in the dust, Dus Village Ethiopia

Twilight in the Dust
A stool and gun – what more could a warrior want?

Silhouetted goats and goatherds on the plateau, Dus Village Ethiopia

Goat Herders on the Plateau
The last light angles over the herd on the plateau above the village, …

Water tower silhouetted by sunset on the Omo River, Ethiopia

Water Tower
… setting a red glow behind the village water tower.

Text: Keep it Simple

I was sad to farewell these beautiful people and to pack up my wonderful tent in the dappled jungle clearing …

But, while we were off on another adventure tomorrow, the Kara men and boys would – once again – be looking after their goats and sheep.

Until next time …

Photos: 21October2018

  • […] Thought to number about 30,000 people across South Sudan and Ethiopia, the Nyangatom have a reputation for being aggressive, and conflicts between themselves and neighbouring tribes are not uncommon. The village I visited on the west bank of the Omo River was on contested lands that was reputedly taken from the Kara people in bloody battle (see: Goats and Guns at Sunset). […]ReplyCancel

Bryggen wharf from across the harbour, Bergen Norway

Bryggen Hanseatic Wharf
The colourful wooden boathouses that make up the historic harbour district of Bergen, Norway, are immediately recognisable.

It’s hard to imagine a more dramatic location for a most picturesque city!

Surrounded by steep, snowcapped mountains with glaciers tucked within them, and sliced by deep fjords and fast-running rivers, historic Bergen has long Viking roots and rich Hanseatic heritage. The iconic medieval harbour district Bryggen is immediately recognisable with its colourful collection of UNESCO-listed wooden buildings.

Norway’s second-largest city and one of North Europe’s oldest ports, the city was said to have been founded in 1070 by King Olav Kyrre on a Viking site, but a trading settlement was already established here in the 1020s or 1030s.

For a period in the early 13th century, Bergen functioned as the capital of the Norwegian kingdom, and it served as a major commercial hub for the Hanseatic League (1356 – 1862) of merchants from Northern Germany. The sale of stockfish (predominantly cod) from Northern Norway made the city an important Northern Europe trading centre for centuries. The Finnegården, one of the more than 60 conserved wooden buildings on the Bryggen Hanseatic Wharf now houses the Hanseatic Museum, which recreates life at the time and explores the legacy.

For me, Bergen was the last stop of a two-week cruise around the edges of Europe, starting in Barcelona (see: In the Land of Flamenco and Gaudí). Unfortunately, my husband was called back to Australia, and had to disembark at our penultimate port of Amsterdam (see: Watercolours), leaving me to complete our itinerary in Norway on my own. 

Thankfully, I already had tours in Bergen (and beyond) organised. The city was easy to navigate and enjoy – in spite of rather inclement spring weather: it sits at 60° North – less than one degree south of Anchorage, Alaska!

Join me for a rainy walk and bus trip through parts of the historic harbour, a bus ride to the vantage-point of nearby Queen Maud’s Outlook, and a funicular railway trip up Mt Fløyen, a “city mountain” in the heart of Bergen.

Looking south across Bergen Harbour, Norway

Bergen Harbour
Vågen Bay is a busy place, and home to a wide range of private, public transport, and commercial vessels.

Bryggen wharf from across the harbour, Bergen Norway

Bryggen Wharf
As our bus turns towards the Nordnes Peninsula, we get views across the harbour to those well-preserved and reconstructed UNESCO-listed boathouses of medieval Bryggen.

Bergen Harbour, Norway.

Bergen Waterfront
Under rainy clouds and behind the boathouses near the fishmarkets, we can see the tower of the stone Holy Cross ChurchKorskirken – opened in 1150.

Clarion Collection Hotel Havnekontoret, Bergen Norway

Hotel Havnekontoret
The waterfront is lined with historic buildings, including the 1920s neo-classical stone Clarion Collection hotel.

Buekorps Museum building from the bus, Bergen, Norway

Buekorps Museum from the Bus
The Buekorps, literally “Bow Corps” or “Archery Brigade” are a Norwegian regional youth organisation founded in the 1850s. The building that now houses the museum was originally built in the 1500, but damaged by fires several times in the 1600s. The current model was built after the 1702 Bergen fire. (iPhone6)

View over the North Sea from Queen Maud

Over the North Sea
Our bus picks up a connector highway, and we tunnel trough part of the neighbouring mountain before climbing up to a lookout in Helleveien, where views extend across the North Sea

Askøy Bridge from Queen Maud

Askøy Bridge
… and over to the long suspension bridge: the Askøybrua across the Byfjorden. Our vantage point is Queen Maud’s view, named for a Norwegian Queen who loved this spot.

Kjøttbasaren, Bergen, Norway

Kjøttbasaren
Back down in the old port, we walk along tiled and cobbled streets, and through ancient painted wooden and brick buildings. To me, this one looks like a traditional gingerbread house! Built between 1874-1876, the neo-Romanesque Kjøttbasaren was originally called Bergen’s Bazaar and was used to control the marketing of food. Today, the building – which was extensively renovated in 2012 – houses restaurants and a Starbucks.

The connected wooden buildings of Finnegårdsgaten, Bergen Norway

Finnegårdsgaten
The beautifully renovated attached buildings opposite house a traditional restaurant, a four-star hotel, and part of the Hanseatic Museum.

Guide with a map in the Hanseatic Museum, Bergen Norway

Inside the Hanseatic Museum
Our guide in the Hanseatic Museum points out the trading routes that the German guild of merchants dominated between the 13th and 17th centuries. In 1360 they created an overseas office here at Bryggen, …

Tourists in the Hanseatic Museum, Bergen Norway

In an Ancient Room
… and built themselves a home-away-from home.

Hanging pot, Hanseatic Museum, Bergen Norway

Hanging Pot
The dark wooden rooms of the museum are filled with artefacts to give us an insight into how these Medieval merchants lived and worked, and the mark they left on Bergen.

The Fløibanen entry, Bergen Norway

The Fløibanen
After lunch, the cloudy skies fulfil their promise of rain, and I make my way to the bottom of Bergen’s funicular railway.

Bergen houses and a tunnel and a roadway from the Fløibanen, Bergen Norway

On the Fløibanen
The cable train passes tall narrow houses and tunnels under roadways as it rises steeply up the mountainside.

A rainy Bergen from the Fløibanen, Norway

Bergen from the Fløibanen
We get some lovely views over the city – in spite of the rain – as we climb Mt Fløien.

Rainy view over Bergen from Mt Fløyen, Norway

Bergen from Mt Fløyen
Even the drizzling rain from low-lying clouds can’t diminish the view from the top.

Directional Signpost, Mt Fløyen, Norway

Directional Signpost
The highest point on Mt Fløyen – one of the seven peaks surrounding Bergen – is just under 400 metres (1,310 feet).

Wooden goathouse in the rain, Mt Fløyen, Norway

Cashmere Goathouse in the Rain
A number of walking trails – each taking about an hour – wind up to the top of the mountain where you can treat yourself at the Fløistuen shop and café.

Cashmere Goat in the Goathouse, Mt Fløyen, Norway

Cashmere Goat in the Goathouse
The presence of a number of goats on the peak, …

Troll in the playground, Mt Fløyen, Norway

Troll in the Playground
… as well as an entire Troll Forest, makes Mt Fløyen family-friendly. Trolls are an iconic feature of Old Norse folklore, fairy tales, and mythology.

Kindergarten children and teacher in hi-viz vests, Mt Fløyen, Norway

Like Herding Cats!
A class of local kindergarten children in their hi-viz vests were on an outing in the rain at the top of the hill.

A rainy Bergen from the Fløibanen, Norway

Train Down in the Rain
From top to bottom, the ride on Scandinavia’s only cable railway takes about six minutes. Naturally, the views going down are just as spectacular as they were riding up!

Lille Øvregaten Street, Bergen Norway

Lille Øvregaten
Back on solid – albeit wet and slippery – ground,  it is easy to see how fire could tear through this city so often: the cobbled streets are winding and narrow, and packed with steep timber buildings.

Gamlehaugen from a bus window, Bergen Norway

Gamlehaugen
We board our bus again, and take a drive around the outskirts of the city, where we catch glimpses of Gamlehaugen, the residence of the Norwegian Royal Family.

Salome sculpture, Clarion Hotel Admiral in Bergen, Norway

Salome
Outside the harbour-front Clarion Hotel Admiral in Bergen, Salome, a sculpture by Norwegian artist Per Ung (1933-2013), dances in a fountain in the rain.

Tourists o the Wet Waterfront, Bryggen, Norway

Tourists on the Wet Waterfront
Our bus passes through Bryggen on the way back to the cruise boat, …

Bryggen Boathouses, Bergen Norway

Bryggen Boathouses from the Bus
… giving me one last look and the heritage-listed wharf for the day.

Although I had to disembark my lovely ship, I had another day to enjoy in this picturesque old city.

Text: Happy Rambling

Now that I had an idea of the lay of the land, I was quite looking forward to exploring more on foot.

Until then,

Happy Rambling!

Pictures: 27April2018