Working Together A husband and wife have their hands full rebuilding the wreckage of their home in Bungamati, Nepal, almost two years after the devastating earthquake in April, 2015.
In the traditional town of Bungamati – or Amarapur – in the fertile Kathmandu Valley about nine kilometres to the south of Kathmandu, people live and farm simply, much as they have for generations. These are the Newars (Newari): the historical inhabitants of the region.
This settlement site has probably existed since at least the Kirati period (800 BC–300 AD), with concrete evidence dated to 605 AD, in the form of a stele dedicated to King Amshuverma who reigned during the Licchavi Kingdom (400 to 750 CE).
This traditional antiquity comes at a price. Most of the houses were made of traditional mud and brick, so the April 2015 Nepal earthquake (also known as the Gorkha earthquake) caused massive damage – including the destruction of the Machhindranath Temple, which was the central ritual focus of town. According to one site: Machindranath … before modern-day Hinduism and Buddhism, was the most revered God in this part of the world.
I was on a workshop with photographers Jack Kurtz (sadly, now deceased) and Gavin Gough and was visiting some of the historic Newar villages in the region (see: Making Mustard Oil). At that time, almost two years after the earthquake, Bungamati’s residential homes and historic monuments remained in ruins.
All the restoration work that I could see was being done manually, and much of it seemed to be undertaken by the property holders themselves. Although touted as a centre for traditional Nepali woodcarving (more on that some other time), the town had clearly not received the support necessary to rebuild, and many people were still living in damaged buildings or temporary housing.
And yet, life goes on and people keep smiling. Join me for a walk in the ruins.
Bungamati Street We entered the historic little centre via a dusty road flanked by piles of construction materials and buildings in disrepair.
Shells of their Former Selves It is hard to believe people have had to winter here for two seasons already.
Building Materials The whole main street is still a construction site.
Cement and Sand
Woman in a Window Even surrounded by cracking walls and damaged, but beautiful carved timberwork, people still have time to smile at the stranger.
Door Lock
Brick Pile Even the making of the bricks that have been delivered here is a labour-intensive local industry.
Rebuilding Home I love the details that have gone into these buildings! Although small government grants were promised to families in the town, they were slow to be delivered.
Damaged Multi-Story Home
The Card Game Still, people are making the best of it – gathering to play cards and socialise.
Hands at Cards
Winner Takes All I never figured out quite what they were playing, but they were clearly enjoying themselves.
Wall Shrines Hindu worship is a cornerstone of everyday life.
Grandpa and Baby Everywhere in the streets the life of extended families goes on …;
Doing Laundry … as do everyday chores!
The Laundress
Generations on the Stoop
Angle Grinding in the Street Workplace Occupational Health and Safety has a whole different meaning here!
Another Woman in a Another Window
Sitting on the Stoop
Drying Corn The lands around here are fertile, …
Fresh Vegetables … so at least there is no shortage of wholesome food!
Quonset Hut and Propane As charming as these makeshift shelters are, I have difficulty imaging surviving a Nepali winter in one!
Laundry outside a Quonset Hut But, people are clearly making the best of a bad situation.
Unloading Bricks Meanwhile, the work goes on …
Moving Bricks … without gloves …
Bricklayer … or proper footwear.
Portrait of Bricklayers
Couple on the Roof Everywhere I look, work is going on.
Workers at the Brick Piles At another work site, a lot of people are hard at work.
Women at Work As much work as there is to do, the women are happy take a break and smile.
Woman at the Brick Pile
Puppies in the Ruins
I can’t help but admire the resilience of these people as they rebuild their homes and lives.
A Moment’s Pause A visitor to the Top Hut Travelling Stock Reserve near Adaminaby, NSW, sits amid the flowering billy buttons (Craspedia globosa) and takes in the scene.
There is something so cheerful and optimistic about native wildflowers blooming in their natural environment.
There is also something hopeful about the metaphorical blank-page of possibilities as we turn the calendar from one year into the next at New Year’s. That is why I’ve chosen to share these pictures of some recovered native grasslands in the Monaro Tablelands.
November is the best time for wildflowers on the Monaro, so, along with other members of the Far South Coast Branch of the National Parks Association, I joined a Monaro Native Grasslands tour facilitated by Upper Snowy Landcare. Many of the participants on the trip were also members of Friends of Grasslands (FoG): dedicated and extremely knowledgeable volunteers who help preserve and nurture these pockets of wild, natural space.
It is wonderful how time slows down on a grassland. I breathed in the surrounding landscape, and sought out the spring flowers blooming there. The more you look, the more you see!
Enjoy a brief foray among these precious native Australian plants:
Adaminaby Golf Course It’s hard to see this as a 9 hole golf course, but it is! And some of the participants on the Native Grasslands tour were locals who play here regularly.
Trees on the Horizon The line of evergreens is testament to years of modern-era land use. Even so, this land was identified as being home to native plants and species and in need of protection.
Billie Buttons – Craspedia Globosa Back in 1999, money was provided through the Threatened Species Network (TSN) Community Grants Program under the Natural Heritage Trust (NHT) to conserve the habitat of the Monaro golden daisy; we didn’t see any here, but there were plenty of billy buttons in bloom.
Picnic Baskets on the Adaminaby Golf Course
Highland Golden Moths – Diuris Monticola Australia is home to the world’s most diverse terrestrial orchids and about 80 percent of these plan are endemic. Many are small and delicate: it was someone with sharp eyes that first spotted these on the golf course.
Women in the Field I love these hills: they roll off into the distance in a patchwork of subtle colours.
In the Billy Buttons
David Eddy A local representative from the State Government Local Land Service (LLS) was on hand to talk about the management strategies for the Monaro Grasslands.
Paddocks
Gorse Bitter-Pea – Daviesia Ulicifolia The undulating hills provide micro zones that are host to different plant combinations.
Sheep Sorrel – Rumex Acetosella This edible plant, native to Europe and Asia, has made a home for itself in many parts of Australia.
The Big Trout The group made a brief pit-stop in Adaminaby. I’ve shared pictures of this local landmark before (see: In Search of Gold). The 10-metre-high fibreglass sculpture is a tribute to the area’s popularity as a fishing spot . (iPhone12Pro)
Monaro Golden Daisy Our next stop was on the verge of an old country road, where the Monaro golden daisy (Rutidosis leiolepis) was in bloom. Considered a species at risk, these are found in scattered patches here on the Monaro plains, and in low sub-alpine sections of Kosciuszko National Park.
Chamomile Sunray We also found small clumps of delicate-looking chamomile sunray (Rhodanthe anthemoides), another endemic Australian native.
Top Hut Travelling Stock Reserve Our last stop was at the colourful Top Hut TSR, where all manner of plants stretched out before us. These reserves are a network of parcels of Crown land that the grazing industry traditionally used to move sheep and cattle around – often following traditional Aboriginal pathways. In NSW, the National Parks Association of NSW (NPA) has worked to protect the biodiversity and cultural heritage inherent in these lands. This plot is managed by the local Friends of Grasslands (FoG) group.
Hoary Sunray There we found one of my favourite Australian natives: the endangered perennial everlasting daisy known as a hoary sunray (Leucochrysum albicans).
Murnong Yam Daisy Hard to distinguish from dandelion until you look at the leaves, the murnong (Microseris lanceolata) has an edible tuberous root, and was a staple food for the local Aboriginal people until the introduction of sheep rendered it virtually extinct. Although they are cultivated as Bush Tucker, they are hard to find in the wild.
Common Buttercup – Ranunculus Lappaceus
Local Landholder A farmer from a neighbouring property talks about how he integrates sustainable land practices in his management practices.
Lauren Van Dyke The co-ordinator of the Upper Snowy Landcare Network watches on.
Rosetted Cranesbill – Geranium Antrorsum
Sunrays and Billy Buttons
Weeping Snow Gums – Eucalyptus Lacrimans
Walking the Land These landholders are six- or seventh-generation farmers in this region, and had no shortage of things to talk about.
It was such a pleasure being out on the land on this beautiful day. I learned so much about the precious plants thriving on a landscape that I have driven across so often, and I can’t help but admire the work that these dedicated people are doing to preserve them into the future.
The Sydney Opera House Even on overcast days, I love the iconic Opera House – with or without an incoming cruise boat in the background. (22November2012 -Canon DIGITAL IXUS)
As someone born and raised in the colder reaches of the Northern Hemisphere, I spent much of my life dreaming of a White Christmas. I still have difficulty associating the festive season with hot nights and Summer in the City.
But I love the city of Sydney in the Antipodean summer – and some years I manage to catch some of the Christmas decorations. When my children were small, we would journey into the CBD to enjoy the wonderful Christmas displays in the front windows of the upmarket department stores and to wander around their expansive and magical Santa Departments.
When my husband and I returned to the city after many years of living in Thailand, I went in search of these decorations – only to find the city much changed! (See: Searching for Christmas Spirit).
So, most years now, rather than hunting out the decorations on my regular November and December forays downtown, I treat any finds as serendipitous. I have revisited some (very) old photos from years past in a renewed hunt for some SydneyChristmas Spirit.
Do join me!
Over the City Flying into Sydney is almost always a joy; the red tile roofs and greenery make for beautiful contrasts. (24November2013 – iPhone 4S)
Dancing Waters I love sitting in Circular Quay over dinner or coffee: there is always a lot of activity to watch on the waters of Sydney Harbour. (22November2012 – Canon DIGITAL IXUS)
Watching the Big Ships People line the waterfront of Bennelong Point outside the Opera House to watch the cruise boats make their stately way into the Overseas Passenger Terminal just around the bend. (22November2012 -Canon DIGITAL IXUS)
Grace Bros. Broadway Not to be confused with the fictional Grace Brothers from British television, Grace Bros was an Australian department store chain founded in 1885. This building on Broadway – completed in 1923 – was the flagship store. The eighth floor was an exhibition space, and before the building was closed in 1992, my children and I would take the train in from the suburbs on school holidays to visit the latest toy and/or Lego expo there. (22November2012 – iPhone 4S)
Sydney Tower Wrapped in Flame Although the surrounding newer highrises compete, this observation and communications tower – variously known as Westfield Tower, Centrepoint Tower, or AMP Tower – is still my CBD touchstone. Here, I’m looking at it through the early summer flowers of a native Illawarra flame tree (Brachychiton acerifolius) in Hyde Park. (22November2012 – iPhone 4S)
The Archibald Fountain Great Britain, the ‘Old Country’ of colonial days, is heavily referenced in the classical architecture and Anglo place names everywhere around the CBD. In the centre of Hyde Park, we have the Archibald Fountain with the Gothic-style St Mary’s Cathedral in the background. (22November2012 – iPhone 4S)
Water, Fire and Earth But, Hyde Park also features some more modern depictions of the past: this sandstone sculpture by Gerard Havekes (1925 – 2011) pays tribute to pioneers: a fisherman who is looking to the future and new horizons, a woman protecting the fires of intuition, initiative, and progress, and a farmer who symbolises the efforts that developed the country. (05December2014 – iPhone5)
Hyde Park Tree Every year an artificial tree is erected in the park; I always try to take selfies in the shiny baubles. (05December2014 – iPhone5)
The University of Sydney Founded in 1850, Sydney University is the oldest university in Australia; we often went past the sandstone buildings on our morning walks during city-stays. (24November2012 – iPhone 4S)
The Student Even the ‘modernist’ public artwork around the old University of Sydney campus is established. This sculpture of a student hunched over a book by sculptor and teacher Tom Bass was acquired by in 1953. (24November2012 – iPhone 4S)
Bridge in the Gas Lamp When you are on Circular Quay, it feels as you could touch the Harbour Bridge directly overhead. (18December2012 – Canon EOS 5D Mark II)
Cruise Ship Gleaming ships in front the Museum of the Contemporary Art add to the summer atmosphere around Circular Quay. (18December2012 – iPhone 4S)
Bridge-Climb High overhead, a group of climbers are strapped in safely. (18December2012 – iPhone 4S)
Photography Homework Like Grecian nymphs in their summer dresses, a couple of young women set up a camera on the foreshore at The Rocks. (18December2012 – iPhone 4S)
Wedding Couple (18December2012 – iPhone 4S)
People at the Opera House (25November2013 – iPhone 4S)
Ho Ho Ho! Darling Harbour always has a slightly irreverent take on Christmas! (06December2014 – iPhone 5)
Christmas Lights After dark, the city shines. (05December2014 – iPhone5)
Christmas Projections A colourful Pitt Street corner. (05December2014 – iPhone5)
Grahame’s Corner The classical façade of the late 19th century heritage-listed commercial and office building known as Grahame’s Corner makes a great canvas for a 21st century seasonal light show. (05December2014 – iPhone5)
So, it’s a Happy Christmas from the City of Sydney, and a Very Merry Christmas from me.
The Roman Amphitheater at Caerleon, Wales There is something serene (and surreal!) about wandering over Roman ruins that are half submerged in grassy fields. During the Middle Ages, this amphitheatre was known as King Arthur’s Round Table, and it has since featured in a number of Arthurian legends.
The expanse of the Roman Empire always astonishes me.
From Hadrian’s Wall and the Antonine Wall in Great Britain, to the southern reaches of what is now Egypt; from the Atlantic Ocean to territories west of the Mediterranean – at its largest, the Empire ruled over 5 million square kilometres (almost 2 million square miles).
But what impresses me even more that the size of their jurisdiction is the legacy that they left behind. I’ve been lucky enough to visit a number of Ancient Roman archaeological sites across Europe and into the Middle East (eg: Roman Ruins) and I’m continually amazed by the engineering prowess that led to some of those impressive structures.
Of course, you don’t maintain a territory of that size without an army.
The Roman legionary were considered the foremost fighting force in the world in their day, with historians praising their effectiveness centuries after their time. As well as being professional heavy infantryman, legionaries were expected to acculturate the conquered population and to serve as a policing force. They also built the large public works projects, such as walls, bridges, and roads – the remnants of which can still be seen across their empire.
Roman Britain was home to three permanent legionary fortresses: the best preserved of these is Isca Augusta or Isca Silurum in what is now Caerleon in South Wales. Isca was founded in 74 or 75 AD and remained the headquarters of the Legion II Augusta until at least 300 AD. It remained relatively undisturbed under the fields and town of Caerleon until full-scale excavations began in 1926. Today, the on-site National Roman Legion Museum displays some of the finds.
Join us for a short tour of the museum, the baths, and the grounds of the fort itself.
The Roman Empire under the Emperor Hadrian
A Roman Centurion Meet Rufinius Primus, a Centurion from the late first century AD. His effigy takes pride of place in the National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales, and his mark is on some of the building stones recovered at the site. His magnificent transverse-crested helmet is one of the signs of his rank.
Rufinius Primus Unlike legionary soldiers, Rufinius wears a mail shirt (lorica hamata). Centurions carried a vine-stick (vitis): as a symbol of authority, and to mete out corporal punishment.
A Legionary Soldier Soldiers in the early Roman Empire wore red or undyed (off-white) woolen tunics under their armour; red was associated with blood and courage.
Legionary Shoulders Legionary soldiers usually wore overlapping-plated body armour (lorica segmentata).
A Legionary Helmet Equipment – especially helmets – was extremely variable, and was often handed down through families. This helmet, with the nose guard, is a style found all across the Empire.
Pottery Jug Exhibits in the museum give a glimpse into everyday life.
Brass Pot
Roman Coins
Men in Stone Some of the recovered items have been eroded by time.
Roman Lettering Other stonework is like new.
Mosaic Floor Tiles The mosaic floors typical of the era feature beautiful motifs. This 3rd century AD example is said to be from the Legion headquarters.
The Barracks These are the only visible remains of Roman Legionary Barracks in Europe. Each of the barracks at Caerleon housed 80-100 men and featured a veranda, red-tiled roof, and greenish glass windows. Four of the original 60 housing blocks remain.
The Neighbours Imagine having a priceless archaeological ruin in your backyard!
Exploring Caerleon The misty rain keeps everything green!
Excavated Ruins At the original ground level, you get a better sense of how things once were.
Entrance to the Amphitheatre
Serving Woman A modern depiction of a server from the Roman occupation.
Roman Bath The recovered remains of the Roman baths were fascinating: in use from around 74 AD to 287 AD, the complex contains chambers for hot and cold baths, exercise rooms, and this open-air swimming pool. The changing rooms were warmed by an underfloor heating system and lead pipes were used to transport water.
Another Roman Helmet The enclosed bathhouse has a number of items that were found in the vicinity on display, including grooming implements and even this remarkable helmet.
Roman Sandals You just can’t go past a good leather Roman military sandal!
It was a fascinating glimpse into a world long-gone.
The Treasury Who can forget their first sighting of the awe-inspiring Hellenistic-style mausoleum known as Al-Khazneh, The Treasury! Hewn out of the pink sandstone rock face, it stands almost 40 meters (121 ft) tall. The beautifully carved tholos near the top depicts two victories on either side of a female figure, believed to be the goddess Isis-Tyche.
The ancient Nabatean/Nabataean city of Petra is an absolute marvel.
UNESCO-World Heritage Listed for its “Outstanding Universal Value” and chosen as one of the New 7 Wonders of the World, the capital city that the Nabateans cut into the steep pink cliffs of iron-laden sandstone is extraordinarily beautiful.
The city is believed to have been established as early as 312 BC as a trading post by the Nabateans, an Arab Bedouin tribe who emerged as a distinct civilization between the 4th and 2nd centuries BC. These fiercely independent nomads were accustomed to living in these barren deserts that now comprise southwestern Jordan. Their skills in taking advantage of the area’s mountainous terrain, harvesting and managing rainwater, supporting agriculture, and carving stone, led to their becoming prosperous traders who established successful settlements all along the Incense Road. At its peak, the city of Petra housed between 10,000 and 30,000 residents.
In ancient times, Petra might have been approached by a track from the south or via the high plateau to the north, but most modern visitors come in from the east. Starting at the Visitor Centre and Ticket Office, a path runs down to the entry of the natural winding rocky cleft called the Siq. This 1.2km (0.75m) long gorge once had the Wadi Musa streambed running through it. The Nabataeans built a system of dams, cisterns, and conduits that diverted water, creating an artificial oasis and protecting the area from flash flooding.
Petra declined under Roman rule, in part from the gradual changes in trade routes. The Galilee earthquakes in 363 AD damaged buildings and – more importantly – the sophisticated water management system. Residents gradually moved on, and by 700 AD only a scattering of Bedouin lived in and around the city. It was subsequently forgotten by all except a few locals.
The Swiss traveller Johann Ludwig Burckhardt was the first European to describe the site after finding it during his travels of 1812. Today, more than a million tourists visit every year.
I was lucky enough to be one of those visitors in 2019, before the world stopped for Covid.
I was with a group, and had two days in the area with our guide. We started with a morning tour of the smaller – and probably younger – site of Little Petra or Siq al-Barid (Cold Canyon) (see: Little Petra). This provided a bite-sized introduction to the magnificent Nabatean architecture.
In the afternoon, we walked as through the Siq and to The Treasury, with our guide pointing out all kinds of details which I have since forgotten. We made our way back out of the Wadi Musi on our own, knowing we’d have time to explore more fully the next day.
Join me for some first-day highlights as I walk through the stunning gorge towards the famous Treasury:
Djinn Blocks Looking at the sandstone rock formations as you walk into the UNESCO site, it can be hard to discern the natural forms from those carved by the Nabateans over 2000 years ago. The Djinn Blocks are named for the djinns, the genies or spirits, who lived around here. Although no one is quite sure what the purpose of the blocks was, some suggest they are actually funerary monuments.
Obelisk Tomb and the Winding Path You need water, good shoes, and a hat: it is a three kilometre walk along the Bab as-Siq, the road to the Siq, and through the canyon to the famous Treasury. But, there is plenty to look at along the way. An inscription inside this tomb close to the entry indicates it was probably built in the first century CE.
Petra Landscape
Obelisk Tomb Further down the path allows a better view of the structure of the Obelisk Tomb: the lower story is a triclinium, a formal dining room for funeral banquets, and the second story contained loculi – little niches – and shaft-graves to house all the family members “forever after”.
Spice Seller The Bedouins never fully left this area, and some are still enthusiastic sellers of spices and incense.
Kohl Eyes and a Silver Janbiya They say Captain Jack Sparrow was modelled on Keith Richards, but I was often reminded of him here. (iPhone6)
Textured Canyon Walls The walls of the canyon, once we enter it, are textured by time, and punctuated with carvings.
Aedicula in the Siq I learned a lot of classic architectural terms while trying to make sense of the carvings in the sandstone! This weathered aedicula – or niche – on the north of the Siq probably contained a small shrine.
Another Aedicula The gorge broadens out, and another aedicula is carved into a boulder in the middle. On one canyon wall there was a water-dripping shrine; on the other side there is a cistern.
Sculptured Sandstone in the Siq
Light at the end of the Canyon It is hard to describe the scale of the colonnades of The Treasury, as you first glimpse them though the steep and dark canyon walls.
Through the Siq
Al-Khazneh – The Treasury
Rain at Al-Khazneh Although this was built as a mausoleum, legends talk of treasures hidden inside. This led to the name Khazneh el-Far’oun : “Treasury of the Pharaoh”, and the damage done by people over the years looking for riches.
Camel Waiting In the forecourt, decorated camels are ready to give rides to tourists.
Bedouin in a Black Keffiyeh
Sand Art The Outer Siq is scattered with souvenir shops showcasing Nabatean crafts, arts, and foods.
Sand in a Bottle A craftsman shows us how the bottles are made: he adds colored sand slowly with a thin stick or funnel, painting the desired picture one layer at a time.
Bedouin Sand Artist
Street of Facades Nabataean burial facades line both sides of the widening Siq.
Back into the Gorge This is only a short introductory visit, …
Riders in the Siq … and we are soon walking back through the gorge.
Greenery in the Chasm Plants cling to life on the canyon walls where waters run down; dams like the brick one on the left here break the force of waters that rushes down into the Siq during the rainy season.
A Narrow Cleft At its narrowest point the walls of the gorge are only 3 metres (10 feet) apart.
Last Looks In some places, the ancient (or renovated?) road bed is still visible.
I was absolutely awestruck – and so pleased that I had the chance to return the next day and visit some of the other remarkable ruins and remains that Petra has to offer.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
I can’t help but admire the resilience of these people as they rebuild their homes and lives.
.jpg)
Until then,.jpg)
