.jpg) Shiva on the River
This statue of Shiva meditating in the Ganges, in front of the Parmarth Niketan Ashram, is emblematic of Rishikesh. Some stories mistakenly say that the statue was ‘swept away’ in the the truly devastating floods of June 2023. Although the torrential rains caused enormous damage and loss of life all across this region, Shiva did not budge. He sat unperturbed as the force of the rising waters swirled around him. At one stage at least, he was completely submerged – but unharmed. It was my last day in Rishikesh: that magical city of yogis and mystics on the Ganges at the foothills of the Himalaya.
I’d been there for a week-long yoga ‘retreat’ – a retreat that turned out to be more of a test of patience than a practice of yoga (more on that some other time), and I was determined to get into the heart of the city I had visited only briefly before.
I had met a couple of young lads – one of whom owned and operated a tuk-tuk – and organised for them to transport me to the Ganges for the evening Aarti. Their English was patchy, but their enthusiasm was unmistakable, and I assumed (probably wrongly!) that they would have a level of local knowledge.
Having witnessed the Ganga Aarti, a ritual venerating the Mother Ganges, in Varanasi and Haridwar (eg: Performing the Ganga Aarti at Har Ki Pauri), I thought the evening ritual at Rishikesh – of the most ancient pilgrim places in India, and an abode of the [Hindu] Gods, would be worth observing.
While it was lovely to participate, I could see almost nothing, and came away with very few photos of the Aarti itself.
Still, it was a delightful afternoon, wandering Rishikesh streets and exploring the Hindu sculptures in the gardens of the Parmarth Niketan, the city’s biggest ashram. Do join me!
.jpg) Selling Gold
The streets running parallel with the Ganges are home to a lot of foot-traffic, and the shops are kept busy. .jpg) Ram Jhula
Built in 1986, this iron suspension bridge spans 230 metres (750 feet) across the Ganges, and is a Rishikesh landmark.  People on the Bridge
The Ram Jhula is always busy with pedestrians. Candy-Coloured Temples
There are great views of the ashrams on both sides of the river here … Woman on the Bridge
… and many pilgrims are more than happy to be photographed. Macaque on the Bridge
Monkeys roam freely – but don’t seem to be a pest. Temple on the other Side
People come from all over India – indeed, from all over the world – to visit Rishikesh. The streets are full of pilgrims and tourists, and lined with ashrams and temples. Trinket Sales
Religious icons are available everywhere. The Juice House
It is hot – very hot. So, my helpers and I stop for a freshly-squeezed juice. The Juice Wala Krishna Chariot
A wonderful sculpture over the entry to Parmarth Niketan Ganga Ghat is based on a story from a Hindu holy book, the Bhagavad Gita, and shows the God Krishna and the demigod Aruna in their chariot. The entry to the ghat is barred until just before sundown, so we continued to wander. Market Girls
Back in the secular streets, everyone has something to sell – and everyone has a phone. Bathing in the Ganges
Bathing in the Mother River is said to purify you and wash away your sins. Worth a try, right! I only went in up to my knees. Icons in a Window
Most of the buildings along the river are temples and ashrams, so religious images are everywhere. The Lord Shiva
Shiva meditating in the rushing waters of the Ganges lends a calm to an otherwise bustling location. Shiva in the Garden
We wander through the gardens behind the Ashram, and find another Shiva – … Gyan Mudra
… – this one with slightly different mudras, or hand positions. Mudra in the Garden
Mudras are symbolic gestures or poses in Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism. They are meant to help focus the mind and direct the flow of prana – life force or energy. Shiva and Parvati
We found another Shiva nearby – this one with his consort, Parvati. Vishnu and his Bull
There are a number of statues dotted around the extensive gardens – many of which my young ‘guides’ were no help in identifying! Betel Seller
Back in the bustling streets, venders are everywhere. Areca Nut
Chewing paan – betel nut from the areca palm, mixed with slaked lime and betel leaves, and sometimes tobacco or flavours, is ubiquitous across southern Asia and Oceania. Golden-Hour Check-In The Other Chotiwala
There are two Chotiwala and two Chotiwala Restaurants; on my last visit to the city they were side by side (see: Iconic Rishikesh)! The original restaurant owner died and left the business to his two sons who could not get along. They split the property down the middle and both operated as if they were the only one. One has since relocated – so at least they are no longer next door to each other. Statue of Hanuman
We are finally allowed onto the ghat. Hanuman, the monkey god of wisdom, strength, courage, devotion, and self-discipline, shows how he holds Rama and Sita in his heart. Hindu Priest
As people crowd onto the steps leading to the Ganges, … Young Child
… I content myself with people watching. On the Ghats
There is a lot of milling around … Crowd on the Ghat
… and the steps are packed with people. I am one of very few non-Indians in attendance. Sunset
Finally! As the sun goes down, the ritual songs and prayers in praise of Ganga Ma, the Mother River, begin. Chariot Overhead
The skies darken and the songs continue. Prayers in the Dark
I can see almost nothing – but eventually the flames make their way to me and I am blessed. Shiva after Dark
With one last look at Shiva, I bid the waterfront good night.
Some reports say that Triveni Ghat, a few kilometers further south, is the most famous ghat in Rishikesh and the place for the evening Aarti.
Ah well!
Maybe next time …
Photos: 08September2023
Posted in India,Religious Practice,sculpture,TravelTags: architecture,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,hindu,hinduism,India,people,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,Religious Practice,sculpture,temple,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,worship
Antoine de Saint Exupéry and the Little Prince
I can’t count how many times I’ve read Le Petit Prince by pilot and author Antoine de Saint Exupéry – in English and in the original French. So, I was thrilled to discover the two honoured in a bronze sculpture by French artist Madeleine Tezenas du Montcel (1936 – ) in the Jardin Royal in Toulouse, France. My travel choices are often a bit haphazard: as much reliant on timing and opportunity as they are on interest and desire.
I’ve found it doesn’t really matter: wherever I go, there are interesting things to see and learn, and surprising connections to my own life-so-far.
Take Toulouse, in Occitania, in the south of France. Before arriving there, I had no idea it was the fourth-largest city in France, and – more importantly for my husband – the centre of the European aerospace industry and the headquarters of Airbus. I knew from reading Night Flight (Vol de Nuit), that author Antoine de Saint Exupéry was a pioneer of early international postal flights, but I had long since forgotten that he flew between Toulouse and Dakar, in North Africa.
We were not there for those reasons. We were only there because work had brought us to France, and we decided to follow that up with two weeks walking La Randonnée Pyrénéenne – the Cathar Trail through the Pyrenees, finishing up in Foix (see: Il était un Fois à Foix).
Toulouse seemed like an obvious next stop on our way home. I had chosen a modest hotel near the railway station, and we set out to explore with a city-map from the front desk; this was long before I had a smart phone, and before sites like Tripadvisor had been invented!
We found plenty to keep us interested – do join us:
Place Roland
Small parks and public art are everywhere. A short walk from our hotel, we came across this fountain in the middle of a small triangle of green. “Chanson de Roland”
The marble work by French sculptor Jules Jacques Labatut (1851 – 1925) refers to a long song, telling the story of Roland, a Frankish military leader, and his friend Olivier, in the battles against invading armies: Saracens or Basque – depending on the version you read. I have no idea what the added blindfold signifies. Roland à Roncevaux
The sculpture has referenced the Battle of Roncevaux Pass in 778 CE; a relatively minor battle under Charlemagne, which has been glorified in the epic 11th-century poem/song (see: AnthroWiki). House Fronts
Even the buildings in the city centre are works-of art: beautiful façades with ornate iron-works lining broad boulevards full of leafy trees. Lion on the Balcony Monument aux Combattants de la Haute-Garonne
Sometimes called “Toulouse’s Arc de Triomphe”, this tribute to the combatants of Haute-Garonne who fought during WWI, was built between 1920 and 1931 under architect Leon Jaussely (see: MIT Libraries). 1918 – Bas-Relief by Camille Raynaud
Three sculptors: Camille Raynaud, Andre Abbal, and Henry Raphael Moncassin, created the bas-reliefs that pay tribute to the soldiers lost in the battles to defend and reclaim the area. La Victoire – The Victory by Camille Raynaud La Chienne – The Female Dog
A short walk away, in the shady circular Grand Rond park, a cast iron sculpture of a female dog with pups, growls across a path … La Louve – The Female Wolf
…. at a snarling wolf with her cub. French artist, Pierre Louis Rouillard (1820 – 1881), known for his sculptures of animals, installed these in 1865. Spring Flowers
The park is dotted with bright and colourful garden beds. A Bee in the Poppies White Poppy
Poppies are my favourite! The fragrance on the warm spring air is glorious. Fountain – Jardin des Plantes
Across the road, the seven-hectare Jardin des Plantes is home to a stream with ducks, swans, and geese. A lovely fountain sits amid more flowers. (I’ve shared a picture of this fountain before in Les Couleurs de Printemps.) Flowerbed – Jardin des Plantes
The ancient trees and colourful spring blooms make the park a delightful place to stroll. Mixed Flowers
Created in 1794, the garden was originally planted with medicinal varieties so that medical students could make their own remedies. Another Bee in another Poppy.
The garden still displays around one hundred different botanical species – but I keep coming back to my favourite. Golden Poppies Le Retour – Les Amoureux Éternels – The Return – Lovers Eternal
In every corner of the Jardin des Plantes, we find a gem! This marble statue is by Auguste Seysses (1862 – 1946). Dedicated to French Composer, Déodat de Séverac, by Auguste Guénot (1882-1966)
Across another road, we find ourselves in the Jardin Royal (Royal Garden), surrounded by more art and flowers. Duck House on the Pond – Jardin Royal In the Park
These connecting parks make a wonderful outdoor space in a city where apartments are likely to be quiet small. “The Spreading Chestnut Tree”
The chestnut flowers made me remember the childhood song I used to play on my xylophone! “Antoine de Saint Exupéry – Writer Pilot”
Exupéry, French writer, poet, journalist, and aviator, is not buried here: in 1944, while flying for the Free French Air Force in North Africa during World War II, he took off from Corsica in a Lockheed P-38 Lightning and never returned. Wreckage of his plane was recovered in 2000, but the cause of the crash remains unknown. Terre des Hommes and Le Petit Prince
Exupéry was always a part of my household: several books in various translations were on the shelves. And then, Canada’s 1968 Expo in Montreal was named Terre des Hommes (Land of Men), after his award-winning book, known in English as Wind, Sand and Stars. Bridge over the Pond
It’s time to backtrack through the Jardin Royal and across to the Jardin des Plantes. Musician
Smiling music follows us as we go. Le Soir de la Vie – The Evening of Life
We came across another marble sculpture by Auguste Seysses (1862 – 1946): this time a bas relief which was carved in 1907 and installed as a feature on a fountain here in 1910. Monument aux Combattants de 1870 – Monument to the Fighters of 1870
Toulouse has been the sight of many territorial wars; this monument honours those who fell during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870/71. “Aux Enfants De Toulouse … To the Children of Toulouse …”
The monument, sculpted by French artist Théophile Barrau (1848–1913), is dedicated to all the children of La Haute-Garonne who died for their country. Monument de 1908 de la Haute-Garonne
The monument is topped by a bronze representation of the French Republic on her pedestal. Statue of Joan of Arc
No French city is complete without a monument to the national heroine and local Catholic saint; this bronze equestrian statue is by French sculptor and painter Jean Antonin Mercié (1845 –1916). Something for everyone!
You – you alone will have the stars as no one else has them… In one of the stars I shall be living. In one of them I shall be laughing. And so it will be as if all the stars were laughing, when you look at the sky at night… You – only you – will have stars that can laugh.
– Antoine de Saint Exupéry, Le Petit Prince
Pictures: 24April2011
Posted in France,Garden,sculpture,TravelTags: architecture,flowers,France,nature,sculpture,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Inside the Australian War Museum
The Australian War Museum in Canberra is a solemn place – a place in which to reflect on the costs of war. Standing in the Commemorative Area Forecourt, we look across the pond at the eternal flame, with the Hall of Memory in the background. Somewhere in my neighbourhood, there is a bagpiper.
I hear him more often than see him: at sporadic intervals throughout the year, kitted out in full tartan he plays through a selection of tunes. When I hear him, I know it is the lead-up to one of Australia’s days of remembrance.
He’s been out again over the last month, and sure enough, today is ANZAC day.
ANZAC stands for Australian and New Zealand Army Corps, and the date – April 25th every year – was chosen to mark when the two countries’ forces joined to form part of the allied expedition attempting to capture the Gallipoli peninsula. Today, it is observed annually to remember all Australians who served and died in all wars, conflicts, and peacekeeping operations.
It’s a solemn occasion, and seemed like a good time to revisit photos from the Australian War Memorial (AWM) and ANZAC Parade, both in Canberra.
Canberra, Australia’s capital, is a planned city: ANZAC Parade is a broad boulevard that runs along the Land Axis, a key feature of the designer Walter Burley Griffin’s Griffin’s original 1912 plan. It affords long views between the memorial and the elegant Parliament House. As a commemorative walk with sculptural tributes to the various forces interspersed along both sides, ‘The Parade’ was finished in 1965.
The concept for the AWM was born in 1925 and the building first opened in 1941.
Come for a walk:
The Bushmaster Protected Mobility Vehicle
I visited the Australian War Museum with my son, who – because of his military service has an intimate knowledge of armoured vehicles – was happy to introduce me to ‘his’ Bushmaster … Tanks
… and the panzers on display in the courtyard. ‘Lest We Forget’ Commemorative Area Forecourt
Once past the first entry, we are in the forecourt, where the Roll of Honour sits behind arched cloisters. Winged Victory
The halls in the museum are dark. Gilbert Doble’s (1880-1945) copper alloy sculpture of Nike, the winged goddess of victory, was rescued from the Marrickville Soldiers’ Memorial, where it was at risk of disintegrating. Greece
In an exhibition called Shared Experience, we find the Lyndon Dadswell (1908–1986) bronze representing the 16th Australian Infantry Brigade in their march back over Mount Olympus during WWII. ‘Tenacity 2020’
Poppies are an enduring symbol of the muddy battlefields of WWI. Contemporary Australian artist Katrina Black draws a metaphor between their tenacious but transient beauty, the struggles of war, and the power of a simple symbol to unite allies. The Avenue
Back outside, we have a clear view to Parliament Hill. The Museum
When it was agreed to build the museum in 1923, a design competition was held. With no clear winner, architects Emil Sodersten and John Crust were asked to collaborate and create a design incorporating different proposals. Dome
The building includes Art Deco elements, with Byzantine and Egyptian components. Shade Tree
The surrounds are green, shady, … Australian Soldier by Wallace Anderson
… and punctuated with sculptures paying homage to the armed forces. ANZAC Parade
From the bottom of The Parade, you have a clear view to the Australian War Museum, with Mount Ainslie behind it. Construction of new spaces are ongoing. ‘Each of Us at a Handle of the Basket’
I started my walk along The Parade at the bottom, and proceeded backwards from there. The New Zealand Memorial was a gift to Australia in 2001: representations of flax-basket handles, symbolic of the two nations working together, are on both sides of the of the road. Crests of the Peacekeepers
The Australian Peacekeeping Memorial acknowledges military, police, and civilian peacekeepers active in international missions since 1947. Australian Peacekeeping Memorial
On an almost windless day, the flags of the agencies flap lightly overhead. The Rats of Tobruk Memorial
Through the tall southern blue gums (Eucalyptus globulus), the sandy colours of the memorial marking the historic WWII siege of Tobruk in Libya command attention. An Eternal Flame
German propaganda radio likened the allied troops in Libya to rats – and the Australians in the garrison took the jibe and wore it with pride. The Rats of Tobruk Memorial is modelled on the one built by Royal Australian Engineers in Tobruk during the siege. Australian Vietnam Forces National Memorial
Across the wide boulevard, we can see the monument dedicated to those Australians who served in Vietnam between 1962 and 1973. Australian Service Nurses National Memorial
On my side of the road, elegantly curved and flowing glass commemorates the nurses – like my daughter – who have served on battlefields since the Boer War. Australian Army National Memorial
Across the avenue, a couple of ‘diggers’ are on patrol. Royal Australian Navy Memorial
The blocky ‘Sailors and Ships’ monument is a distinct contrast to some of the other sculptured forms. Atatürk
The bronze likeness of Kemal Ataturk, the commander of the Turkish forces at Gallipoli, and the founding father and first president of modern Türkiye, was a gift from the Turkish Government to acknowledge the 70th anniversary of the landing at Gallipoli (see: The Gallipoli Peninsula). ‘Every Mother’s Son’
The first monument on the self-guided walk (or the middle one, in my case) is the Australian Hellenic Memorial to a WWII unit. At the next cluster, the ‘diggers’, continue their patrol in their jungle greens. Poppies
Flowers have been attached to the diggers’ uniforms – making a small splash of colour. Australian National Korean War Memorial
The field of poles surrounding the three participant forces – sailors, soldiers, and airmen – represents those who died during the Korean War. Desert Mounted Corps Memorial
Commonly known as the Light Horse Memorial, this sculpture is a copy of one which originally formed part of a tribute erected at Port Said in 1932. It commemorates the Australian and New Zealand soldiers who were killed in Egypt, Palestine, and Syria during World War One. The Australian Boer War Memorial
Australian Colonial forces joined the British against the the Dutch-Afrikaner settlers in South Africa between 1899 and 1902. Sun in the Oak Leaves  The oaks endure – and the battles continue around the globe.
Sobering, really.
Pictures: 30January2021 and 12April2024
Posted in Australia,sculpture,TravelTags: ANZAC,Australia,memorial,remembrance,sculpture,Sculpture Park,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,war
Inside Brihadisvara Temple
Looming tall (66 m – 216 ft), the vimana (sanctum tower) inside the UNESCO-listed Brihadisvara Temple is delicately carved and warmly coloured in the morning light. This temple in Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu, is considered a masterpiece of Chola art and architecture. This was my first sojourn into Southern India – and I was finding everything as different as it could be!
I was travelling as part of a small-group tour. We had just spent a few days in Puducherry (see: Weekly Wanders Pondicherry) and had set out early one morning in our bus for the city of Thanjavur, which has been called the ‘cultural hub of Tamil Nadu‘ and an ’embodiment of South Indian art and craft.’
Our first stop, in the port city of Cuddalore, was at a cottage industry manufacturing products from coir; producing rope, mats, brushes, mattresses, and other wares from the outer husk of coconuts. I actually found this fascinating, as I have often wondered what use can be made of the mountains of coconut shells one sees in the tropics.
Once in Thanjavur (Tanjore), we settled into our rooms in a beautiful, centrally-located, Tamil-style hotel, before visiting another small workshop – this time, one where traditional religious icons are painstakingly crafted from bronze.
The heart of Thanjavur is the magnificent Brihadisvara (Brihadeeshwara, Brihadiswara) Temple, built in the 11th century by the reigning Chola king.
To my naive eye, the ancient temple architecture of Southern India has more in common with that seen in neighbouring Sri Lanka – and even Bali and Siem Reap – than with that of Northern India. This actually makes sense, as during the height of the Tamil Chola Empire (848–1279), the dynasty ruled over Sri Lanka and stretched its influence across portions of what are now Myanmar, Thailand, and Cambodia, and well into Indonesia.
The UNESCO World Heritage Listed Brihadisvara Temple is considered a remarkable example of Dravidian artisanship and one of South India’s most magnificent architectural accomplishments. While paying tribute to both Hindu and Buddhist deities, the 1000 year-old temple was dedicated to Shiva by the king who commissioned it, Rajaraja Chola I. The surrounding fortified walls were added after the 16th century.
Join me for a cultural snapshot of Tamil Nadu:
Home and Factory
Our first stop on the four-hour drive between Puducherry and Thanjavur was at a typical concrete home in Cuddalore … Twisting Coir Rope
… where the family conducts the labour-intensive job of twisting coconut fiber into rope. Double-Strength
Our guide Louis jumps in to show how the spun fibre can then be neatly doubled for extra strength. Portrait of a Spinner A Tangle of Coir Rope Chai Wallah
My favourite road-stops involve freshly-fried samosas and hot coffee or spiced tea – good luck getting either without milk! The process of making either drink involves boiling it first, then cooling it by pouring it from one container into another from as great a distance as the chai wallah (tea maker) can manage. (iPhone12pro) So India!
Of course, without a guide, I probably would have taken one look at the family cow, outside in the garbage, and kept driving! (iPhone12pro) Band in the Street
There is always a celebration somewhere! The building next to our hotel was hosting a wedding, and the band played loudly, ready to escort the bride and groom off somewhere. Thanjavur Street
The colourful, multi-story houses stand shoulder-to-shoulder either side of the rough, narrow street. (iPhone12pro) The School Run
It is late afternoon, and the streets are quiet except for the odd parent picking up their children from the nearby school. (iPhone12pro) Bronze Dewi Sri
Our late-afternoon excursion is to a rough building where craftsmen painstakingly re-create traditional religious icons. This one is a version of the Goddess Lakshmi, Guardian of the Rice Harvest. Sparks Flying
The metal is liquified over a coal fire … (iPhone12pro) Making Metal Icons
… and poured into a clay mould. (iPhone12pro) Musicians
After dinner at our hotel, we are treated to a concert of classical Tamil music on veena and percussion. (iPhone12pro) Veena on Display
The hotel library has a number of precious antique instruments on show. (iPhone12pro) Entry, Entry, and Entry
From the entry through the outer wall, we can see the ornately decorated gopura, the monumental entrance tower, into the temple grounds. Rajarajan Tiruvasal
The inner gate, or gopuram, is more ornately decorated than the outer ones, … Guardian of the Gopura
… and has a pair of divine doorkeepers standing guard either side of the entry. Dvarapalas/Dwarapalakas
From the Sanskrit dwara, meaning “door,” and pala, meaning “protector”, these ferocious deities are common in Hindu temples. The Writing on the Wall
Even the languages and scripts in India’s south are different. The Brihadishwara Temple has Tamil and Sanskrit inscriptions from the 11th century all around the granite walls. The Vimana – The Sanctum Tower
One of the tallest vimana in the world, the temple tower stands an impressive 66 m (216 ft) high. In front of it is a separate Nandi Mandapam – a pillared hall housing a 25 tonne monolithic carving of Nandi – Shiva’s sacred bull. Gods on the Wall
Every surface of the complex is richly decorated. Inner Temple
The sanctum is dedicated to Shiva, and this is as far as we can go; only priests are allowed to enter the inner-most chambers. The Sanctum and Tower
The whole structure is huge, with steps and ladders leading up to special shrines to Hindu and Buddhist deities. Nataraja Statue
This version of Shiva depicts him as Lord of the Dance, stamping out a demon who symbolises ignorance and ego. Man in an Alcove
There are nooks and crannies everywhere! Tap and Basin Nandi through a Window
Shiva’s vahana (mount) can be seen everywhere. More Shrines in the Courtyard
No wonder the complex is known as Thanjai Periya Kovil – Thanjavur’s Big Temple! It was a wonderful sampling of South Indian culture.
And we were headed back to our hotel for another treat: a vegetarian thali lunch – a meal with numerous small portions of local delicacies.
Namaskara!
Pictures: 23-24January2023
Posted in Architecture,art,India,TravelTags: architecture,arts and crafts,buddhism,buddhist,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,hindu,hinduism,India,Photo Blog,sculpture,Tamil Nadu,temple,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
Tropical Blues and Greens
Even in the Wet Season, you can have beautiful days with clear skies and wonderful views in the Australian tropics. Towards the end of my stay in Port Douglas, Far North Queensland, I took the short climb up to the Flagstaff Hill Lookout for uninterrupted views over the Coral Sea. (23February2021 – iPhone12Pro) Many, many years ago, I went to the cinema to see a then-new Australian film: Travelling North(1987) by prolific and much-loved playwright David Williamson. I was entranced! Not so much by the grumpy main character played by Leo McKern, or the plot, in which not much happens, but by the setting. After taking a road trip past Port Douglas, which is as far north as the road goes in Eastern Australia, a middle-aged (plus+) couple move from their cold, wet Melbourne home to northern Queensland.
From the moment I watched the movie, I wanted to visit their quaint wooden cottage where the tropical jungle wrapped around them like a warm blanket.
With COVID-19 travel restrictions still in place in 2021, Australian tourist destinations were offering all kinds of deals to local travellers to try to compensate for the lack of international visitors. We were prevented from even the thought of overseas trips; so – although mask and distancing rules abounded – it was the perfect opportunity for me to plan a lengthy domestic road trip.
Travel during the Wet Season in Tropical Far North Queensland might not be ideal, but while the rain can be heavy (think: a bathtub of tepid water being pour over your head), it doesn’t usually last all day. With the right shoes, you can still do and see a lot.
Even by the most direct route – which is not the one I took – the distance from my house to the end of the Eastern road is around 3000 km (1800 mi). But, I had a week in some very nice accomodation in the town of Port Douglas to look forward to, and plenty to do once I got there.
My drive north mostly followed the coastline. After a stop in Airlie Beach, where I made a trip to Hamilton Island on the Great Barrier Reef (see: In the Heart of the Reef), I continued to Mission Beach on the Cassowary Coast (spoiler alert: I didn’t see any cassowaries – only warning signs!), where I had two days of unremitting rain before proceeding to Port Douglas, a mere 16.484° south of the equator.
Luckily, I managed to just miss a couple the cyclones that were whipping up and down the coast. Join me for some wet wanders:
Mission Beach
The coastal town of Mission Beach has a tropical-monsoon climate. One of the rainiest parts of the Wet Tropics, it has an average annual precipitation of around 3,000 mm (1800 inches). I felt like it all fell while I was there! (18February2021 – iPhone12Pro) Dunk Island in the Rain
Mission Beach is the closest point to the Great Barrier Reef; Dunk Island, a popular resort location, floats off on the horizon just four kilometres away. (18February2021 – iPhone12Pro) Flaky Barked Satinash – Syzygium Forte
As you’d expect, everything grows lush and fast in the tropics. (18February2021 – iPhone12Pro) Four Mile Beach
My accommodation in Port Douglas backed onto the aptly named Four Mile Beach. (20February2021 – iPhone12Pro) Lifesaver in a Sand Buggy
Four Mile Beach was quiet in the mornings, even so, the lifesavers were on patrol: think Baywatch or Bondi Rescue. (20February2021 – iPhone12Pro) Mangroves and Rocks
A rocky headland marks the north end of Four Mile Beach. Walking into ‘downtown’ from this point, I could treat myself to a beautiful breakfast. (20February2021 – iPhone12Pro) Bush Stone-Curlew – Burhinus Grallarius
Also called bush thick-knees, these large distinctive shorebirds are endemic to Australia, and are commonly seen near the coast. (21February2021) On a Segway
I decided to play tourist, and went for a Segway tour of Four Mile Beach. Luckily I was the only one, as I found that it took a bit of getting used to! (21February2021 – NMI) Orange-Footed Scrubfowl – Megapodius Reinwardt
Ranging across northern Australia and neighbouring New Guinea, scrubfowl are well camouflaged in the leaf litter at the edge of the scrub. (21February2021) Port Douglas Wharf and Storage Shed
I got a closer look at this historic heritage-listed wharf and shed, built in 1904, from the water the next day (see: On Port Douglas Waters). (21February2021) On the Mossman River
Playing tourist again, I found myself rafting on the nearby Mossman River through UNESCO-listed rainforest. (22February2021 – NMI) Top of the Beach
My walk along Four Mile Beach every morning was a real treat. (23February2021 – iPhone12Pro) The Viewing Platform on Flagstaff Hill
The climb up Flagstaff Hill makes for a nice walk … (23February2021 – iPhone12Pro) Mountains and Cloud
… and allows great views over the coastline and sea. (23February2021 – iPhone12Pro) Casuarinas, Mangroves and Coconuts
Another morning – another beachwalk. (25February2021 – iPhone12Pro) Mushroom Ragout
All my meals were a real treat; … (25February2021 – iPhone12Pro) Magpie Lark – Grallina Cyanoleuca
… obviously the peewee with his eye on my breakfast agrees. (25February2021 – iPhone12Pro) Casuarina Needles and Cones
(25February2021 – iPhone12Pro) Grass in a Rainy Season Puddle
(25February2021 – iPhone12Pro) Praying Mantis
Driving south out of Port Douglas, I pulled into the charming mountain village of Kuranda, and then stopped at the Barron Gorge National Park. Metal sculptures line the path to the viewing platform over Barron (Din Din) Falls. I’ve been here before – but I don’t remember the sculptures – or even the nice, level walkway! (26February2021) Giant Golden Orb-Weaving Spider – Nephila Pilipes
This beautiful creature along the walkway is one of Australia’s largest spiders. (26February2021) Barron Falls
In spite of all the recent rains, there is not much water in the waterfall. The last two times I was here, the falls were roaring full. Kuranda Scenic Railway
The first time I was here, we rode the heritage-listed tourist railway service from Cairns, over the Great Dividing Range, through the sugarcane fields of the Atherton Tablelands, and alighted in Kuranda. (26February2021) Kuranda Rail Conductor
The line was built in 1891; some of the cars look almost that old! I felt rather nostalgic staying behind in the station and watching the train pull away in the rain. (26February2021) Nature’s Artworks : Lattice Vines and Greenery
After the train pulls out, I walk back up the hill … Nature’s Patterns : Leaves Overhead
… admiring the jungle around me as I go. (26February2021) Almost Abstract : Tree Bark
(26February2021) View from the Henry Ross Lookout
My last stop on the way into Cairns was at the highest point on the Kuranda Range road. Here, we can lookout over Cairns, its northern beaches, Trinity Bay, and the Coral Sea beyond. (26February2021 – iPhone12Pro) The story of Travelling North was originally a play (1979) – which takes place in in Northern NSW, not Far North Queensland. I’ve been lucky enough to see the iconic Brian Brown in a more recent re-staging of the play (see: Stage Whispers). Of course, I had to pay more attention to the actors and the dialogue, because that wonderful, embracing tropical jungle wasn’t part of the cast.
I am so grateful to have visited it for myself.
Pictures: 17-26February2021
Posted in Australia,Nature,TravelTags: Australia,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,Queensland,travel,Travel Blog,tropics,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
« Older posts
Newer posts »
|
.jpg)
.jpg)
