.jpg) Temple Ruins, Olympia
The classic remains of the Ancient Greek Temple of Zeus (470-457 BCE) sit in the dappled light of wild olive-trees that have grown here since time immemorial. Every square inch of Greece has a story to tell.
History imbues the ancient structures and the fallen stones. Even without an education in what was called in the West “The Classics”, the names were all familiar to me from childhood, and I recognised many of the stories. At Olympia, I saw Hera’s alter, where the maidens lit the very first Olympic flame in 776 BCE. Tributes and temples to Zeus and Apollo are everywhere.
Some of the stories are less well-known.
As just one at-first seemingly bizarre example: a statue of Miguel de Cervantes (1547-1616), Spanish author of the well-known literary classic Don Quixote (1605, 1615), stands on the medieval walls of the old Venetian harbour of Nafpaktos, a Greek town on the north coast of the Gulf of Corinth.
Sitting at the entrance to the Corinthian gulf, Nafpaktos and its earlier iterations have always been critically important for mounting defence and collecting taxes. During the Crusades and the Ottoman–Venetian wars, the port changed hands many times. From 1499, the town was part of the Ottoman Empire, and in the 16th century it was used as a naval station by the Ottoman Navy.
This made Europe nervous, so Pope Pius V (1504-1572) formed the Holy League. Naval forces from the Christian European nations launched a naval battle against the Ottoman Empire, winning a decisive victory at the Battle of Lepanto in 1571.
A 23-year-old Cervantes was aboard one of those ships. He received three gunshot wounds: one of which caused him to lose the use of his left arm. Thus, Ottoman expansion across the Mediterranean was halted, and Cervantes was dealt his future as a writer not a fighter.
I was travelling on a small group tour. We left Delphi early morning (see: The Sanctuary of Apollo), stopping briefly to admire the beautiful Venetian battlements on Nafpaktos Harbour. We then traversed the elegant Rion Antirion Bridge across the Gulf of Corinth to the fabled Peloponnese Peninsula, where we visited the UNESCO-listed Archaeological Site of Olympia, home of the original Olympic Games.
Come for a tour:
.jpg) The Venetian Port
The little town of Nafpaktos sits on a bay on the north coast of the Gulf of Corinth in Western Greece. It boasts a Venetian castle and these well-preserved harbour walls. .jpg) Miguel de Cervantes
The sculpture here, by Mallorcan sculptor Jaume Mir (1915-2012) shows Cervantes holding up his right arm. His paralyzed left arm hangs by his side. The inscription reads: Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra (1547-1616), a Spanish soldier, a genius of letters, honor of humanity, wounded heroically at the naval battle of Nafpaktos.  Venetian Harbour
The morning sun rises over ancient fortifications and modern coffee shops. Giorgos (Georgios) Anemogiannis (1796-1821) and the Flag
Another statue nearby, this one by Nikola Pavlopoulos and erected in 1966, pays tribute to a hero of the Greek Independence War of 1821. Venetian Harbour – Nafpaktos The Rion Antirion Bridge
Before long, we are back on the road, and about to cross the Rion Antirion Bridge over the Gulf of Corinth. Officially called the Charilaos Trikoupis Bridge, the 2380-metre-long (7810 ft; 1.48 mi) structure was completed in 2004. It is the longest fully suspended cable-stayed bridge in the world. (iPhone12Pro) Another Day – Another Museum
It seems every archaeological site has its own museum. Fortunately, all the ones I visited were marvelous, and our guide in the Museum of Olympia was delightful – and very funny. Bronze Miniatures – 6C BCE
The age of some of the artefacts attesting to past civilisations is just staggering! Bull’s Head
Bulls are a common theme across Greece; this Neo-Hittite head apparently dates to the 8th century BCE. West Pediment Temple of Zeus (472-456 BCE)
Painstakingly excavated and put back together, the marble pieces here show the battle between the Lapiths and the Centaurs in Thessaly. The Apollon of Olympia (ca. 460 BCE)
Considered one of the most important statues in the Severe style or early Classical style, the god Apollo indicates his favour towards the humans (the legendary Lapiths) by facing in their direction. Photograph of a Statue Zeus
The temple once housed a magnificent chryselephantine (gold and ivory) statue of Zeus which was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The statue was lost and destroyed before the end of the 6th century CE, and reconstructions are based on descriptions and depictions on metal coins. (iPhone12Pro) Hermes of Olympia (330 BCE)
Discovered in 1877 in the ruins of the Temple of Hera at Olympia, this stunning marble statue of Hermes with the infant Dionysus is traditionally attributed to the renowned sculptor Praxiteles. Marble Statue of Hermes with the Infant Dionysus The Botanical Garden of Olympia
Leaving the museum behind, we walk the short distance through a grove of ancient olives and newly replanted lands that extend to the northern foothills of Kronos Hill. Temple of Hera (590 BCE)
Our first Olympian structure is the partially restored Heraion, which was destroyed by an earthquake in the early 4th century CE. Perfect Pillar
The Temple Of Zeus, built in the second quarter of the fifth century BC, was a classic example of Doric style. Doric Capital
The fluted columns rise up gracefully to a simple capitol. Inside the Sanctuary of Olympia The Crypt
This is the arched passageway the athletes came through to the stadium behind me. The stadium itself is not much to look at, but the stone start and finish lines of the sprint track, and the judges’ seats still survive. In its day, the stadium held 45,000 spectators. Public baths, hostels, a wrestling school, and a gymnasion were nearby. Treasury of Sicyon (470 BCE) Altar of Hera
Back in the Sanctuary, we stand in front of the altar where the Olympic flame has been lit since 1936, using a parabolic mirror to concentrate the rays of the sun. Fallen Doric Columns Flowers on the Judas Tree
The Sanctuary of Zeus has always been known for its olive trees and other greenery; here the Judas trees (Cercis siliquastrum) are starting to bloom. During the original Olympic Games, the flame at the altar burned continuously, symbolising the fire stolen from the Gods by Prometheus.
 Standing on that spot, in the heat of a Grecian sun, it feels like all the intervening years just fall away.
Happy Travels!
Photos: 15September2022
Posted in Greece,History,TravelTags: ancient,Ancient Greece,architecture,Greece,history,landscape,museum,nature,ruins,sculpture,sport,temple,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall,worship
Paying Respect to Mother Ganga
This is the Rishikesh I remember! The holy Ganges River races out of the Himalayan Foothills, past fairy tale ashrams and colourful gods on the way to the plains of northern India. (iPhone12Pro) Rishikesh is a magical city of fairy tale ashrams and colourful gods. The city sits at an auspicious place, where the Ganges – one of the most sacred rivers to Hindus – flows out of the Himalaya and towards the plains. For me, the city’s name alone is evocative of sitar music, pastel-coloured Hindu temples, meditation, the Beatles, and most of all: yoga.
Rishikesh is routinely called the “Yoga Capital of the World” (eg: Inside Hook). After my first visit there in 2013, I said to myself – and to you – that I would love to escape into one of the many yoga ashrams for a long course of study. Almost a full ten years later, I finally made it back: not for a long course, but for a week-long yoga ‘retreat’.
The ‘retreat’ was attached to a yoga teacher-training centre, and located in the busy suburb of Tapovan, with its steep, narrow winding streets full of dogs, cows, and small children. It was autumn, and I hadn’t factored in the unseasonable heat when I booked a room with a fan (no air conditioning). Sweltering at night, I listened to the cows coughing in the street, and vehicle horns blaring, as cars and motorcycles tried to find their way past each other. I was into my third day there before I had a single class; the ‘retreat’ turned out to be more of a test of patience than a practice of yoga (see: Waiting for the Ganga Aarti).
But, my week included some fascinating excursions – including my favourite: to the Beatles Ashram (Chaurasi Kutia) – and for all the frustrations of dealing with completely disorganised ‘organisers’, I loved it.
Join me:
Rishikesh Street-Scene
Through the window in the reception area of my hotel, I watched the bustling street, and thought to myself that this is not like any ‘retreat’ I’ve experienced! (iPhone12Pro) Garden at my Home for the Week
My simple room came with a fan, which I soon discovered was no match for the unseasonable 35°C (95°F) night-time temperatures!
(iPhone12Pro) Rishikesh Roof Tops
It was no cooler early next morning when I got ready for an excursion into the hills. (iPhone12Pro) Hindu Temple in the Middle of Nowhere
I was told to arrive at 7am, so I did. The bus didn’t leave until 7:30. It wound it’s sickening way up mountain hairpins for almost two hours before we we stopped at Itharna Temple in Gadool, a Shiva temple of some local importance. (iPhone12Pro) Temple Bells
I’m always happy to ring a bell – which announces one’s presence and intent, and focuses the mind – even though half my attention was on the lack of breakfast!
(iPhone12Pro) Gods and Sages In The Trees
Icons, offerings, and ritual fires are always everywhere. (iPhone12Pro) Blessings from a Hindu Priest
I was very pleased that the resident priest was happy to have his picture made after he blessed me with red tilak. Women Working
The temple sits at 1600 m (5249 ft). On the steep hills below, life goes on. (iPhone12Pro) In the Field
I gave up waiting for the promised breakfast to materialize, and bravely pulled out my brand-new cameras and turned them on. Gadool Hills
I had just switched to mirrorless camera bodies, and changed from Canon to Sony systems; everything felt different. I was lucky that anything came out in focus! The Rice Fields of Home
The next morning I was up early for a class that never happened; I found a mat and did my own thing before walking down our long hill in search of some food and spiced tea. (iPhone12Pro) Red and Green
I love the contrast of this woman’s clothing against the field she’s working in; much like the contrast between the busy street I’m on and the virtual countryside below. (iPhone12Pro) Chai Wallah
Once I found a samosa and a masala chai in a clay cup, all was right with the world again! (iPhone12Pro) Nandi at your Service
Before climbing back up the hill for my proper breakfast, I stopped in at a tiny local temple. Vashishtha Gufa Temple
Our mid-morning excursion that day was to a famous meditation cave, a half hour to the east of us. Gate on the Ganges
The temple was built around 1930 to be in proximity with the nearby caves. The rock on the foreshore points the way to the Arundhatī (washed by the rays of sun) Gufa (cave). Lizard – Agama Iguanian
It’s a short, but very rocky, walk to the cave; I pause to admire a small iguana sunning on the cliff wall. Inside a Meditation Cave
It is cool and dark inside the cave, and the energy is conducive to quiet meditation. Arundhati’s Cave – the smaller of the two – has also been called the Jesus Cave after one swami (Papa Ramdas) had visions of Jesus during his meditations here in the 1930s. The Shrine
One story says the sage Vashistha meditated here for “a long time” after the death of his hundred children. Another says this is where he was born. Either way, we paid our respects before leaving. Agama Iguanian – Lizard
Back outside, the lizards have changed colour! Common Mormon Butterflies – Papilio Polytes
Butterflies were everywhere on the sandy edges outside the cave. Indian Cabbage White (Pieris Canidia), Lime Butterfly (Papilio Demoleus), and Common Mormon (Papilio Polytes)
They were wonderful to watch! The Ganges
With the verdant foothills all around, the Ganges keeps flowing … (iPhone12Pro) Vashishtha Cave Temple
… and we work our way back up past the temple. Rescue Animals
As distressing it is to see animals in this condition, it is good to know that Vashishtha Gufa Temple is looking after them now. THIS is the Rishikesh I Remember!
This would be my most treasured moment: yoga on the Ganges ghats across from the thirteen-story concoction that is the Trayambakeshwar Temple. Good Morning, Mother Ganga!
After leading us through our morning Hatha class, our instructor kindly posed for me. (iPhone12Pro) Bathing in the Ganges
Not far from us, people were washing away their sins. I went into the river up to my ankles; I guess I am partially absolved. (iPhone12Pro) Trimurti Gurudatt Ashram
It is as if these buildings on Mother Ganga are made from royal icing sugar! (iPhone12Pro) Morning Practice
While waiting for my last class, this was the scene that met me. I’m a long way from able to do this! (iPhone12Pro) Saints and yogis have been meditating on the banks of Ganges since antiquity. Finally it was my turn! I’m not sure I gained any enlightenment, but I tested my patience, and I had fun.
I’ll have to go back and try again …
Photos: 02-06September2023
Posted in India,TravelTags: architecture,blog,environmental portrait,hindu,hinduism,landscape,Photo Blog,Religious Practice,temple,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Emerald Railway Station
Australia is a coastal country, with more than 90 percent of the population living within 100km of the ocean. As soon as you drive inland a short distance, the pace of development and change slows right down. There, you are in farming territory, with small communities, and a lot of empty space. I do love road trips!
And when I’m on one, other ones I’ve taken come to mind: whether it’s because of comparisons or contrasts. I’ve just spent some time winding up and down through the magnificent mountains of Western Canada – which counter-intuitively made me think of the straight and lonely stretches of highway through Queensland, Australia. I was talking to the Canadian driver of an electric car, and I couldn’t help but remember the number of times I’ve been holding my breath on almost-deserted Australian country roads, feverantly hoping that there’s an open petrol station soon.
This all motivated me to return to a set of photos I took some years ago as I was working my way back south through Queensland canefields, farmlands, and small country communities. The cameras were all packed up, so the pictures are taken with my iPhone12Pro and are more about ‘mood’ than photographic excellence.
It was in 2021. We were still in the grip of Covid19 lockdowns, which meant no overseas travel, and watching local conditions carefully to avoid hot-spots. I had driven up to Port Douglas, in Queensland (see: Travelling North), and was heading back south. With patchy internet, GoogleMaps, and Booking.com, I worked out my stopping points ahead of time – making sure my driving days were kept reasonably short.
My planned route was inland – staying off the busier National A1 Highway, and avoiding the worst of the cyclones ravaging the coast. Just south of Cairns, in Far North Queensland, I turned west, following the lesser-used highways south to the New South Wales border.
Join me for a country drive.
The Calm Before the Cyclone
At Deeral, Queensland, just south of Cairns, I started hearing the reports of incoming storms. It was time to turn away from the Coral Sea and the stunning coastline before the winds arrived! Raptors on the Road
On the Gregory Highway, somewhere in the Charters Towers Region of Queensland, it was just me and the raptors for miles and miles. I saw no other vehicles, and very few dwellings. At one point, I startled a group of birds – mostly hawks, I think – gathered on a road kill. Above the Lonely Highway
I stopped to watch them for a while, but they were leery of getting close while I was there. Belyando Crossing
Having seen the warning sign: “Next Petrol 200km”, I’d been watching the fuel gauge and my mileage closely. But, I must have blinked! I passed this, then saw another sign: “Next Petrol 200km”. Needless to say, I made a quick U-turn. I stopped in to fill the tank and grab a snack and a comfort stop before continuing south. Lattice and Fresh Paint
Emerald is a more substantial town than many along my route, and I was delighted to come across their heritage-listed Railway Station on my morning walk. The Road Ahead
After a breakfast in Emerald that was worthy of a trendy inner-city cafe, I was back on the almost-empty Gregory Highway in the Central Highlands. Minerva Hills National Park
The sight of that jagged ridge of volcanic peaks on the horizon grabbed my attention; … A Little Red Tractor
… and I had to pull off the highway to have a closer look. I have put the Minerva Hills on my ‘to visit one day’ list! Albert ‘Bert’ Edward Shaw
Apparently, the tiny town of Injune is known for ‘a lively interest in the arts.’ I stopped for lunch and took time admiring a series of rustic metal statues depicting local identities along the main street. What a delightful way to jazz up your town and share some local history! Queensland Bottle Tree (Brachychiton Rupestris)
Roma, where I stopped for a night, is a rural town in the Maranoa Region, and is home to more bottle trees than I have ever seen in one place! Queensland Bottle Tree
Tall and leafy, they store water in their trunks, making them drought resistant. Brachychiton Rupestris
The trees are endemic to Queensland, and are not related to baobabs, which they resemble loosely. Bottle Tree in the Park
Roma uses the species extensively for street and park plantings, and even has a heritage-listed Avenue of Heroes, with 140 trees standing in tribute to local soldiers fallen in the First World War. A Fixer-Upper?
The other thing that stood out for me around town was the variety of building styles. Houses on stilts are common to protect against flash-flooding. A Country Queensland Homestead
A newer, lived-in home, also on stilts – has the necessary rain storage tank in the back, and an Australian flag flying proudly out front. Weathered and Worn
Paint doesn’t last long in this harsh and changeable climate. School of Arts Hotel
The pub, of course, is the centre of town. Built in 1918, the rambling hotel includes 44 simple bedrooms upstairs. Another House on Stilts
It’s hard to know how old some of these cobbled-together houses are! Wildflowers in the Grass
Mexican sunflowers always make me smile! Hebel Hotel
This is a typical ‘Queenslander’: a building style developed in the 1840s to help deal with the climate in Australia’s eastern subtropics. The corrugated iron roof and deep, wrap-around, veranda help protect residents from periods of high rainfall alternating with pounding sunlight. It seems fitting that a ‘Queenslander’ was the last building that grabbed my attention before I slipped over the border into the state of New South Wales.
 It always amazes me how much the landscape and architecture change, even within short distances, as one drives.
Safe Travels!
Photos: 27February-02March2021
Posted in Architecture,Australia,TravelTags: architecture,Australia,nature,Photo Blog,Queensland,road trip,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Basilique Saint-Sernin de Toulouse
The largest remaining Romanesque building in Europe, this beautiful basilica is an important stop along the UNESCO-listed French pilgrimage route to the Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Toulouse, France’s fourth-largest city and the capital of the southern Occitanie region, was an unexpected treat.
My husband and I were stopped there for two nights in transit, and had enjoyed our time wandering through the public gardens (see: Public Art and Gardens) and admiring the narrow cobbled streets and ancient buildings. What I didn’t know until later is that one of the buildings we were admiring, the Basilique Saint-Sernin, was actually UNESCO-heritage listed for its historic connection to a French portion of the Camino de Santiago, the Way of St. James. The Romanesque church, consecrated in 1096, was the most important stop in Southwest France for pilgrims walking to Galicia in northwestern Spain.
The city itself is layered with history. Originally founded by the Romans, Toulouse was the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom in the 5th century and the capital of the province of Languedoc in the Late Middle Ages and early modern period. Traces of the Romance language that evolved from Latin in the region – known as Occitan, Langue d’Oc, or Provençal – can still be heard.
Linguistically, Occitan is closer to the Catalan spoken in Andorra and parts of eastern Spain than it is to French, and the Languedoc regions did not historically consider themselves part of the Kingdom of France. That all changed after the Albigensian Crusade (1209–1229) against the Cathars.
The Cathars, or self-identified ‘Good Christians’, were part of a loosely organised movement of pseudo-Gnostics which thrived in Southern Europe. Because they eschewed some of the teachings – and all of the excesses – of the Catholic Church, they were pronounced heretics. Pope Innocent III (1198 -1216) first tried to end Catharism by sending out missionaries, then launched the crusade against them – and their protectors, including the Count Raymond VI of Toulouse (1156 – 1222) – in 1209.
The twenty-year-long Albigensian Crusade (and the Medieval Inquisition which followed it) has been called a genocide: it was largely political and was ultimately effective. Long story short, there was a significant reduction in the number of practicing Cathars, the County of Toulouse became aligned with the French crown, and the distinct regional culture of Languedoc was diminished.
Since that time, Toulouse has been a solid Catholic bastion, which shows in its architecture.
Bicycles in Toulouse
European cities – or the city centres, at least – tend to be bicycle and pedestrian friendly. Le Télégramme – Rue Gabriel Péri and Rue des 7 Troubadours
Streets run off in odd directions, and buildings nestle in where they can. This example, with its bluish gray slate roof and its stone and brick polychrome walls, is a distinctive Toulouse landmark. The Toulouse Telegram
Designed by brother architects, Antoine and Raymond Isidore, as the home of one of Toulouse’s four main newspapers, the building, finished in 1912, has since been retrofitted several times. The Cathedral of Saint Stephen
Down another narrow street, we find the chevet, or east end, of the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne, with its massive buttresses – built with the expectation that the choir would be much taller than it is. Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Toulouse
Built on the site of an earlier Romanesque cathedral, the current building was started at the beginning of the 13th century (1210–1220). Called ‘militant religious architecture’, this more austere Southern French Gothic style of building was an attempt to woo back Catholics who had turned to Catharism – which advocated a more pious austerity. Heritage-listed by the French Ministry of Culture, the cathedral is still the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Toulouse, and is considered emblematic of the city and its historic joining into the Kingdom of France. Balconies in the Pink City
Many of the city’s buildings are constructed from pinkish terracotta bricks – earning Toulouse its La Ville Rose (The Pink City) nickname. City Streets
Residential streets are broad boulevards, full of leafy trees. Dogs are everywhere! Capitole de Toulouse
The next morning we found ourselves in the massive square at the Capitole. The 135 m (443 ft) wide main façade of the city hall was built between 1750 and 1760 in the Neoclassical style from the characteristic local pink brick. In the Café
The square is bounded by cafés and other small businesses. Petit-Déjeuner – Gaufre à la Crème Florist
Temporary businesses set up in the square daily. Rue du Taur
Wandering the old cobbled streets lined with candy-coloured buildings was a delight. Rue du Taur (Street of the Bull), which runs between the Place du Capitole and Place Saint-Sernin, is so named because it is here that Saint-Saturnin (Sernin) was martyred during the 3rd century. The Romans had tied him to a furious bull that dragged him through the streets. Notre Dame du Taur
The original building here was a Roman Catholic oratory built on the exact spot the patron saint of Toulouse, Saint Saturnin, was reputedly dropped by the bull in the year 250. What we see now was built between the 14th–16th centuries in Southern French Gothic, or Meridional Gothic, style. Saint François d’Assise
This current building was classified as a historic monument in 1840, and has been UNESCO-listed since 1998 under the Paths of Saint Jacques de Compostela in France. Saints flank the portal of the west facade of the building’s clock tower. Basilique Saint-Sernin de Toulouse
The number of pilgrims stopping at the Notre Dame du Taur to pay respects to Saint Saturnin was overwhelming, and in the 11th century, a larger church was started to accommodate them. Saturnin’s bones and other relics were transferred to this larger basilica. Basilique Saint-Sernin Bell Tower
The commanding bell tower is divided into five tiers: the lower three, with their Romanesque arches, date from the 12th century, and the upper two Gothic sections date from the 13th century. The spire was added much later, in the 15th century. Renaissance Gate to the Abbey The Miègeville Gate – Circa 1100 Ancient Icons
The interior of the basilica is dark, and decorated with old iconographic artwork. I think this is theologian and philosopher Saint Augustine. Deep Window The Cross Colours and Textures
Back outside the Saint Sernin Basilica, the spring air is full of the scent of flowers. Outside the Basilica
The massive, ancient building looks different from every angle. The Apse
The beautiful brickwork in the apse of the Basilica Saint-Sernin is immediately recognisable. Café
There is always somewhere close at hand to stop for coffee. Stade Toulousain Rugby
These old buildings are in constant need of love and attention … Derelicts
… and some have fallen by the wayside. Having seen a lot and walked a lot, we returned to our accommodation to prepare for the long train north to Paris the next day.
 Of course, we stopped along the way for another wonderful meal.
Bon Appétit!
Photos: 24-25April2011
Posted in Architecture,France,TravelTags: architecture,cathedral,Catholic,landscape,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall,worship
Legong Dancer
Bali has a rich and unique culture. At one of the temples in Ubud, a Legong dancer welcomes us to an evening performance of abbreviated classical dances. Bali is a wonderful holiday destination: the people are warm and welcoming, the landscape is varied and amazing, the culture is rich and fascinating, and the food is fresh and fabulous.
I thoroughly enjoyed previous visits to this lovely Indonesian island (see: Bali, Indonesia), but this trip was for a family function, rather than purely for recreation, so much of my time was taken up with logistics, rather than tourism.
Still, a girl’s gotta eat! Half the joy of travel is the flavours – and Bali’s local take on Indonesian cuisine is always a treat.
We also managed to turn one necessary shopping excursion into an excuse to visit Ubud, the cultural heart of the island.
Ubud had grown since my last visit and was much more crowded than I remembered. But, it is still surrounded by verdant rice terraces and punctuated with ancient temples. As well as being home to every type of tourist shop, and restaurants representing the flavours of the world, it is also Bali’s center for traditional crafts and dance.
We walked the length of the hilly town, taking time in the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, home to three Hindu temples and over 1200 cheeky long tailed macaques. After yet more food, we enjoyed an evening performance of the tourist-version of classical Legong temple- and palace-dances.
Join me for some food and culture!
On the Tarmac – Sydney Airport
Travel is always made sweeter when the weather you are leaving behind is inclement! (iPhone12Pro) Chicken Sate
My accommodation had no food on site and seemed a long way from anywhere! (iPhone12Pro) Table on the Cliff
The silver lining was that I was forced (in spite of the temperature (31°C and humid!) to get out and walk. (iPhone12Pro) Electric Sunset
This is the Asia I remember: tangles of overhead wires everywhere! (iPhone12Pro) Carpenter on the Roof
My son calls this the “Spot the OH&S violation!” game. People performing dangerous jobs without any of the protective gear we have come to expect in the West is still a common sight across Asia. Balinese Gate
In Bali, gateways are both physical and symbolic barriers, built to protect against wild animals and evil spirits. This one is a Paduraksa, a gate with a roof that serves as an entry to a family compound. Goddess Sculpture on the Walkway
The Ubud Monkey Forest has a whole new entry building since my last visit. From there, we walked across a bridge where Sri Devi holds a paddy to guarantee a fruitful harvest. Monkey Forest Entry
The journey into the forest continues through a cave called Durgama, named for the Hindu goddess Durga. The relief carvings on the entries depict the process of escorting guests in and out. Young Macaques
The crab-eating macaques, also known as Balinese long-tailed monkeys (Macaca fascicularis), in the forest are territorial, and divide themselves into discrete groups. All the animals are well-fed, and the youngsters in this growing population considerably out-number their elders. Cornerstone Detail Dwarapala – Temple Guardian
Known in Balinese as a Bedogol, this gate guardian statue stands outside one of the temples inside the Monkey Forest. Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal
The Padangtegal Great Temple of Death is one of three Hindu temples inside the Ubud Monkey Forest. Mature Macaque
The animals in the sanctuary are healthy and well-fed – but will still chase and tourists if they suspect they are carrying any food in their bags. Young Macaque
Three times a day, park staff distribute sweet potato. Macaque at the Forest Entry Lunch: Gado Gado (iPhone12Pro) Dinner – Lemongrass Chicken (iPhone12Pro) Temple Entry
After dinner, we make our way into the dark Pura Dalem. Blessings at the Temple Entry The Gamelan Band
At the appointed time, the traditional musicians start playing in what is a predominantly percussive ensemble. The Condong Dance
Traditionally, Legong dances, which probably originated in the 19th century as a Balinese royal entertainment, were performed by pre-pubescent girls. Today, dancers may be male or females of any age. The dances tell traditional stories and involve elaborate costumes, exaggerated eye movements and facial expressions, and intricate hand and foot positions. Baris Tunggal
A Baris dance is essentially a war dance, depicting the feelings of a young warrior prior to battle. Tari Topeng Punta
By contrast, this masked dancer is a mischievous old man. The Bee and the Flower
Some of the headdresses and hand positions bring to mind Khmer dancers, … The Bee and the Flower
… while the eye movements are similar to those used in some South Indian classical dance styles. Going Home
What is nice to see is the ongoing cultural tradition: I met these young ladies the next day. They were coming out of a local temple where they had just finished dance class in preparation for a festival. (iPhone12Pro) Little Dancers
It didn’t take much encouragement for them to strike a pose! (iPhone12Pro) Mount Batur
When I left the island a few days later, the clouds surrounded Bali’s active volcano. (iPhone12Pro) 
Flying out of Bali, I looked at the volcano rising out of the clouds, and reflected on the joyful but busy week I’d had.
Even when a Bali break is not a holiday, it is an absolute pleasure!
Pictures: 05-12May2024
Posted in Bali,Culture,Indonesia,TravelTags: animals,architecture,dance,dancer,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,hindu,hinduism,performance,performers,Photo Blog,sculpture,temple,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
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