Making Dal It’s dark, hot, and humid in the kitchens of the Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib, one of the nine historical Sikh temples in Delhi.
“I have always thought of Christmas time, when it has come round, as a good time; a kind, forgiving, charitable time; the only time I know of, in the long calendar of the year, when men and women seem by one consent to open their shut-up hearts freely, and to think of people below them as if they really were fellow passengers to the grave, and not another race of creatures bound on other journeys.”
~A Christmas Carol (1843), Charles Dickens
It’s that time of year again: when the sun reaches its zenith (or nadir, depending which hemisphere you live in) and families get together to celebrate whatever the customary celebration is in their particular household.
As much as I love the idea of Christmas, and the idea of “a kind, forgiving, charitable time”, I am much more impressed with people who live their belief in treating each other well on a daily – rather than seasonal – basis.
This is part of why I was so impressed to learn about langar.
It was my first visit to a Sikh Temple: the ancient Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib in Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi. It was a November mid-morning, and music and prayers were in progress in the sumptuous and gilded Darbar Sahib (Prayer Hall). But, it was in the kitchen areas and out on the roof-top that the real life of the temple was happening: countless volunteers of all ages were performing seva, or selfless service, by preparing and cooking copious amounts of food – pumpkin, dal, roti and kheer (rice pudding) – for anyone who wanted to enter the temple to eat.
Langar (ਲੰਗਰ) is a Punjabi word for kitchen or canteen. In the Sikh religion, the meaning of langar extends to include the communal cooking, serving, and eating of traditional North Indian vegetarian food in a Gurdwara (a Sikh house of worship) – although the concept of free food for the needy pre-dates the Sikh religion, with a long history in Chishtī Sufism in Afghanistan and the Indian subcontinent.
Guru Nanak, who founded Sikhism in the Punjab in 1469, is said to have started the langar custom when he fed hungry Sadhus with money intended for trade goods. Mata Khivi, the wife of Second Guru Angad Dev, expanded the langar to include seva, or altruistic selfless service, by serving alongside the the first five gurus in the Gur ka Langar, the Guru’s free kitchen. Third Guru Amar Das added pangat sangat, the idea that every one, regardless of rank, sits and eats together as equals in the congregation.
Today, no matter who you are, regardless of gender, religion, ethnicity, age or status, as long as you bare your feet, cover your head, and behave with decorum, you are welcome in any Sikhlangar hall, where – between midday and midnight – you can enjoy a nourishing meal.
Pangat sangat; nourishment of body and soul.
Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib The domes of this Sikh temple – first established in 1783 – rise over the narrow streets of Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi.
Sikh in Purple and Orange Visiters to the temple can enjoy rooftop views over the old city.
Music and Prayers Prayer and meditation are an integral part of Sikhism; inside the Gurdwara, worship includes the singing of traditional hymns.
Sikh Woman The people inside Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib are relaxed and unhurried.
In the Kitchen The tiled walls of one the communal kitchens are scrubbed and ready for langar – the preparation and sharing of boundless food.
Women at Work On a rooftop balcony, women work together paring pumpkin.
Men Cutting Pumpkin The Guru Granth Sahib – the Sikh scripture – explicitly states that males and females are equal; …
Cutting Pumpkin … watching the men and women of the temple doing seva (service) side by side demonstrates this equality in action.
Peeling Pumpkin Performing seva is a family affair.
Making Chapati Dough Chapati (or roti) is a staple of meals at the temple. To make enough involves a bit of a production line!
Rolling Chapati Dough has to be portioned, rolled out, …
Making Chapati … and flattened.
Flattening Chapati The word Chapati is from the Hindicapātī, from capānā, meaning to ‘flatten or roll out.’
Chapati Flying Flattened chapati …
Cooking Chapati … are placed on the griddle …
Cooking Chapati … where they are carefully watched over.
Making Dal Dal is another staple of a North Indian vegetarian diet. Light angles into a dark room where it simmers.
Tea Break
Prayers on the Roof A section of roof – away from those preparing vegetables – is devoted to prayers.
“Waheguru” Roughly translated as “Wondrous Enlightener”, Waheguru is the name Sikhs use when referring to their monotheistic God.
Boys on the Rooftop Anyone is welcome at the temple. I’m guessing these lads are not Sikh because their hair has been cut. Many Hindu children visit from the streets because they know they will get fed, and Sikhs do not proselytize, so the meals here are indeed “free”.
Prayers Indoors Back in the the Darbar Sahib or Prayer Hall, the music …
The Darbar Sahib … and prayers continue.
Sikh Guardian at the Gate I pass the kindly-faced Guardian as I leave the temple and reclaim my shoes.
I always drop a little something into the collection boxes at temples and churches when I take pictures in them. Before I left the Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib, I looked for a place for donations.
I couldn’t find one;
I guess there really is such a thing as a free lunch!
But, it only happens because the “Three Pillars of Sikh Principle” expect devotees to give their time in service, and to donate a ten percent tithe from their “honest earnings”.
That sounds a bit like what Charles Dickens called Christmas spirit:
“I will honor Christmas in my heart, and try to keep it all the year.”
Fantastic reportage and photographs, Ursula! Again, you have educated and entertained us with your informative commentary and compelling images. Thanks for sharing.ReplyCancel
Wild Geraniums (Geranium Maculatum) on the Ivy Creek Overlook Trail Even on a hot spring day, there is plenty of shade to be found in the woods of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains.
Whatever else one might say about the US, driving there is a pleasure. Whether you are speeding along the main highways, or winding down the back roads, you’ll find things well signposted – and the many National Parks and other places of interest are easily accessible.
My husband and I have covered a lot of territory across the US in rental cars in the past several years. Last May, as an adjunct to visiting with family scattered over three states, we drove the length of the Skyline Drive, Virginia’s National Scenic Byway.
Because of mountain bends and wildlife, the maximum speed along Skyline Drive is 35 mph (56 kph). So, it takes at least three hours to drive the whole 105 miles (169 km) from one end of the Shenandoah National Park to the other – that’s assuming you don’t hit traffic, go for a hike, or stop at any of the 75 scenic overlooks.
Established in 1935, the park was cobbled together from more than 1000 privately owned tracts of land, and now encompasses 300 square miles of the Blue Ridge Mountains – a physiographic section of the largerAppalachian Mountainsrange. It boasts in excess of 500 miles of hiking tracks, including 101 miles of the famous Appalachian Trail, whichruns through 14 states from Maine to Georgia.
As is our habit, we ended up with less time than we had originally hoped for. But, we still allocated a full day: entering the park from the north at Mile 0, Front Royal Entrance Station, late one afternoon, and crossing onto the Blue Ridge Parkway (more about that some other time) at Mile 105, Rockfish Gap (South) Entrance Station, in the afternoon of the next day. That allowed us time for a short walk each day, generous meal stops, visits to National Park Visitor Centers, and plenty of scenic stops at a selection of the many overlooks.
Join me for a scenic drive and a couple of short hikes.
Baby Bears Mama black bear was too fast for me! A mobile phone shot of her two cubs through the front windscreen was the best I could manage before they disappeared into the woods. (iPhone6)
View from Dickey Ridge The Dickey Ridge Visitor Center near the North Entrance has all the information one might need about the park and affords long views across the Shenandoah Valley.
Information Signposting – Dickey Ridge All of the “Scenic Overlooks” have sign-posting with facts about the view, the wildlife, or the broader park itself.
Skyline Drive The park is 95% forested. In spring the deciduous trees are multiple shades of fresh green with their new leaves.
North Mount Marshall Viewpoint Track It’s a short walk, just off Skyline Drive from the Mount Marshall Parking Area, to the Marshall Viewpoint.
Wild Geranium (Geranium Maculatum) The ground either side of the track is covered with spring flowers.
Bluets (Houstonia Caerulea)
North American Millipede (Narceus Americanus) Millipedes were all along the track – and could move surprisingly quickly when they noticed us!
View from Mount Marshall Viewpoint
Virginia White-Tailed Deer – Cervidae Odocoileus Virginianus In the darkening woods, a white-tailed doe watches us as we return to our car.
Methodist Church – Sperryville We slipped off the Skyline Drive at the Thornton Gap Entrance Station to spend the night in nearby Culpeper, Virginia. On our way back to the Shenandoah National Park the next morning, we stopped at the charming town of Sperryville.
Sperryville Home Some of the architecture in Sperryville is classically beautiful – like this private family home built in 1890.
Sperryville Shops The tourists shops in Sperryville are stocked with traditional Appalachian crafts, …
Sperryville Glass … artisanal foods, and local artworks. (iPhone6)
Thornton Gap Tunnel Back on the Skyline Drive, our first stop was at the Thornton Tunnel Overlook.
Leaves – Thornton Gap New leaves wave overhead …
Thornton Gap … and the mountains roll off into the distance.
Stony Man Mountain Overlook Can you see the man’s face on the side of the mountain?
Blue Ridge Mountains Haze blankets the farmlands that dot the Shenandoah Valley.
Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) Worker A statue dedicated to the memory of the workers from the CCC, a public work relief program that operated during the Great Depression. These workers helped build this National Park. (iPhone6)
Turkey Vulture (Cathartes Aura)
Another Overlook We didn’t stop at every one of the 75 overlooks – but we did stop at quite a few.
Ivy Creek Overlook Our last stop was at the Ivy Creek Overlook, …
Virginiana Spiderwort (Tradescantia Virginiana) … where we went for another walk through the Virginia woods, along a short portion of the famous Appalachian Trail.
A signboard at one of the overlooks describes the many moods of the mountains and valleys, and how they change at the different times of day or year, reacting to different temperature and weather. It quotes Heraclitus of Ephesus:
“No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it’s not the same river and he’s not the same man.”
We’d drive it again – more slowly next time – in any season.
[…] from the Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park (see: In the Virginia Woods), and runs 469 miles (755 km) to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and […]ReplyCancel
Old Passau from the Tunnel It amazes me how European cities manage to preserve the gothic and baroque architecture of their ancestry in the midst of thriving modern metropolises.
My husband was born in Passau, Germany.
Or, so they tell him; he doesn’t actually remember.
It is named as his birthplace on his papers, which always causes some consternation at border-crossings, because he has a Hungarian name and an American passport. His parents escaped from Hungary after the Soviet Red Army invaded in September 1944. Some years later, when my husband was five, they emigrated to the USA with their three children.
So, we were extra curious to visit the Bavarian city of Passau: to find out what kind of place it was, and to see if he recognised anything.
Called dieDreiflüssestadt, the “City of Three Rivers”, Passau sits at the confluence of the Danube, the Inn, and the Ilz Rivers in southern Germany, near the the Czech and Austrian borders. It was first mentioned by the Romans in the 2nd century BC, after they pushed the resident BoiiCeltic tribe out of the area and back across the Alps to make way a for a fort.
Some time in the second half of the 5th century, the Italian (Saint)Severinus of Noricum established a Christian monastery in Passau. In 739, the Anglo-Saxon monk (Saint) Boniface founded the Roman Catholic Diocese of Passau – the largest diocese of the Holy Roman Empire for many years. The city is still predominantly Catholic.
Passau was once an important centre for the medieval salt trade, and later became known for its guilds, especially those crafting quality swords and knives. A medieval fortress – the Veste Oberhaus – which was built in 1219 to be a stronghold for the Bishop of Passau, still sits on a hill, overlooking the city from across the Danube.
Much of the original architecture in the old city was destroyed by fire in 1662, and the buildings were subsequently rebuilt in the Baroque-style that was popular during that period. These are some of the ornate and beautiful buildings one sees today.
We arrived by canal boat early one summer morning, and were able to explore much of the old city – as well as the Veste Oberhaus fortress-museum – by foot before cruising away and into Austria at dinner time.
Do join us.
Passau from the Portal One of the beauties of travelling by canal boat is waking up with a new city outside your window in the morning. (iPhone5)
Bavarian Guide Andrea, our smiling guide for a walking tour of Passau’s Old City, meets us on the banks of the Danube in her dirndl: the traditional Bavarian women’s costume of bodice, puff sleeved blouse, full skirt and apron.
Boats on the Canal Passau is the last train-stop in Germany before the Austrian border. It is also a day-stop for the increasingly popular European river-cruising tourism industry.
“Den Opfern der Donau” “The victims of the Danube: erected by the friends of the rivers and seas.” – Passau 1971
Paulinerkloster Mariahilf Much of the Altestadt, the Old City, is located on the low-lying peninsula at the confluence of the Danube and Inn Rivers. From the tip of the peninsula, the Paulinerkloster Mariahilf– a pilgrimage church built in the early 1620s – can be seen to the south, across the Inn River.
Neumarkt Wall The Neumarkt – New Market – grew up between the 10th and 13th centuries. In 1209, it was surrounded by a stone wall, separating it from the old town centre.
Schaiblingsturm – Schaibling Guard Tower The best-preserved portion of Passau’s former city wall fortifications, the Schaibling Guard Tower, was built in 1481.
Cleaning the Schaiblingsturm Passau’s location on a narrow, low strip of land at the confluence of three rivers makes it subject to regular flooding. A graph on a nearby wall shows the high water marks dating back to 1501. On June 2, 2013 – about a year before our visit – the waters had risen to levels not seen in over five hundred years. The clean up was ongoing.
Metal Door Artwork adorns the old city walls and doors.
Arch and Clocktower Walking through the old city brings a new delight at every turn.
Rathaus – Town Hall The colourfully decorated Venetian-style town hall building dates back to 1405.
Rathausturm – Town Hall Tower The current 38-meter neo-GothicRathaus clock-tower was finished in 1892. It houses Bavaria’s largest carillon (glockenspiel), ringing tunes out over the city three times a day.
Residenzplatz – Residence Plaza The baroque-style Wittelsbach Fountain (Wittelsbacher Brunnen) was built in Residence Square (Residenzplatz)in 1903.
Inside the New Bishop’s Residence Museum The early-18th century Bishop’s Palace is now a museum showcasing some of Passau’s treasures from its days as the capitol of the largest diocese in the Holy Roman Empire.
Saint Stephen’s Cathedral The beautiful Saint Stephen’s Cathedral was built in 1688, after the 1662 fire destroyed most of its predecessor. (iPhone5)
St. Stephen’s Ceiling The baroque stucco-work and ceiling frescos inside the cathedral are just stunning. (iPhone5)
St. Stephen’s Cathedral Altar
St. Stephen’s Organ This the world’s largest cathedral organ. The sound resonating through the cathedral when it is played is magnificent – although I can’t say I enjoyed the choice of pieces we were treated to!
Veste Oberhaus over the Schanzl Bridge After lunch back on our canal-boat, we crossed the Schanzlbrücke over the Danube and climbed the 200 steps of the Oberhausleiten-Stiege – the Upper House Stairs, …
Old Passau … stopping occasionally to take in the view (and catch our breath!), …
Veste Oberhaus … before finally reaching the old fortress, built for Passau’s Prince-Bishops in 1219 to control commerce in the rivers below.
Goldhaubenfrauen – Gold Bonnet Women We were surprised, when we stopped at the coffee shop outside the fortress, to find the courtyard filled with women in period costume.
Woman in a Goldhaube A Goldhaube is a headdress that women from wealthy or bourgeoise families have worn for 200 years in this region of Eastern Bavaria and Upper Austria. Today, it is more a symbol of regional cultural identity than of wealth. Listed as an item of “Intangible UNESCO Cultural Heritage“ in 2014, the Goldhaube is normally reserved for special occasions. These women were at the fortress for their bimonthly “Goldhaubengruppe” Gold-Hat Group meeting.
Inner Courtyard in the Veste Oberhaus The fortress is a rambling affair, with buildings in gothic, renaissance and baroque styles.
Castle Attendants The fortress museum illustrates Passau’s long history.
Wooden Wax Moulds The different rooms house exhibits of a particular focus, …
Locking Mechanism … and we quite enjoyed our time wandering through them.
Goldhauben in a Glass Case When we returned to our boat, we discovered that “Passau Gold Domes” are not just ladies’ hats!
Making Passauer Goldhauben They are also a praline sweet, made from apricot and nut truffle with caramelised almond flakes, in light and dark chocolate …
Painting Passauer Goldhauben … painted with 23-carat gold leaf.
It was a “sweet” ending to an interesting visit.
And at least now my husband can say he remembers Passau!
[…] thrilled with the included shore excursions and with time we spent exploring cities on our own (eg: Passau; Regensburg; Melk; Kelheim to Weltenburg; Vienna; Budapest Market; […]ReplyCancel
Old Auntie Smoking It may be full daylight outside, but it is black and smoky inside a traditional Himba hut.
It is dark inside a wattle and daub Himba wattle and daub hut.
As well as being dark, the huts are likely to be noisy with chatter, packed with bodies, and smoky from the fireplace, pipe tobacco, and incense.
The huts are built from mopane wood – a local termite-resistant hardwood – plastered with a mixture of clay and animal dung. An open fireplace sits on the packed-dirt floor in the centre, and heavy wooden supports rise up to the domed roof. With no windows or chimney, the smoke and heat hang heavy in the air. The only light enters through the odd cracks in the plaster and through the single doorway.
The Himba are a small tribe (about 50,000) of semi-nomadic pastoralists eking a living out of the hot, dry landscape either side of the Kunene River, which runs between Namibia and Angola. Although they are not isolated from urban centres and other tribes in the Kunene Region, the Himba have managed to maintain their unique culture; little has changed since the 16th century.
Himba are immediately recognisable by their distinctive hairstyles (see: Mother and Child; Women of the Himba; Himba Model Shoot), which are determined by their age, gender and marital status. Although men often dress in western clothing, the women and girls are more commonly seen in their age-old costume of soft cow-hide skirts and head-dresses; metal anklets, ornaments and belts; and orange-tinted body butter.
Maintaining their elaborate hair-styles and full body paint takes the women hours every day, so it is no surprise that they might perform their ablutions as part of a social gathering, complete with pipe smoke, gossip, and laughter. Very early one November morning, my cameras and I – and a male colleague – were lucky enough to be invited into a small hut in Otjomazeva Village in the Kunene region of Northern Namibia. Our photo-tour co-ordinator, Photographer Ben McRae had done all the necessary ground-work before our arrival.
The women in the hut seemed to forget our presence: they continued chatting and performing their morning regimen, while we sat on a cowhide mats in the crowded space either side of the front entry.
Inside the Hut It is dark and crowded inside the hut as the women complete their morning beauty ritual.
Young Woman This young woman is only recently married – which is one reason she is not wearing an Erembe – the Himba crown crafted from the skin of a sheep or goat’s head.
Smoking Himba women don’t use water to wash – there is just too little of it in this arid environment. Instead, they burn aromatic plants and resins and use the smoke created to perfume and clean themselves and their clothing.
Hot Coals for Smoking
Mother and Child The Himba are a proud and beautiful people.
Feet-Ash-and-Leggings Married women wear beaded anklets which are reputed to protect them against snake bite.
Butterfat for Otjize Paste The body-butter Himba use to keep their skin fresh and protected from insects and sunburn, starts with butterfat or vaseline.
Adding Herbs to the Otjize The women add the resin of the omuzumba shrub and a variety of leaves and herbs to their mixture …
Otjize … which results in a beautifully scented paste.
Adding Ochre The final and most important ingredient in the otjize, the body-butter mix, is ground ochre which gives the paste – and everything it is rubbed onto – its rich warm colour.
Oiling with Otjize The colour of blood and the earth, red is considered beautiful and a symbol of life.
Cleaning her Belt The women’s jewellery, including the heavy belts and necklaces woven with metal wire, are cleaned and re-oiled daily.
Oiling the Erembe Headdress A lot of time is spent rubbing paste into the leather headdress …
Oiling the Ohumba Necklace … and the metal jewellery. Married women wear a heavy necklace made of iron and brass beads.
Mother and Child As the young mother speaks, we can see the gap where her top incisors have been filed. Both men and women have the bottom incisors knocked out and the uppers filed in an upside-down v during a ceremony around puberty. This is supposed to attract the protection of the ancestors.
The Pipe The older women enjoy a quiet pipe before passing it around.
Old Auntie Smoking
Old Auntie Freshly smoked and oiled, an old Auntie sits quietly under her heavy rug. Nights are cold here in autumn – although I find it quite hot in the hut.
That Toothless Smile! The Himba habit of dental destruction leads to some interesting gaps in the old women’s smiles.
Oiling the Baby From the time they are born, females wear the otjize paste.
Mother and Child
Girl-Child After being re-covered in Otjize, this toddler escaped her mother to come and visit me.
Those eyes! This young newlywed – beautiful in her own right – clearly looked up to the young mother in the hut; I think she was in awe of her, and of her motherhood.
It was a privilege sharing time with these extraordinary people –
And it sure made me appreciate the running water back at my rustic camp-site!
Another excellent series Ursula. You mention how dark the hut interior was, were you using available light only or did you use some flash as well? It’s not really obvious looking at the images.ReplyCancel
[…] A tall, good-looking people, the Hamar are possibly the most recognisable of the Omotic tribes. Men, women, and children generally sport multiple strands of colourful beads. The men often wear a clay cap, decorated with feathers. Like other groups in the region, they can be seen carrying or using their small wooden stools/pillows. Women have elaborately decorated goatskin bibs, which – these days – are reserved for special occasions. They layer themselves in beaded belts, bracelets and necklaces, as well as wearing copper or metal necklaces that signify their marital status (e.g.: first wife, second wife, etc.). Most strikingly, they coat their hair in a clay and butter mixture – reminiscent of the Himba people of distant Namibia (e.g.: The Morning Routine). […]ReplyCancel
Pecca Twin Falls One of many stunning waterfalls in North Yorkshire, the Pecca Twin Falls on the River Twiss is a feature on the 7 kilometre-long Ingleton Waterfalls Trail.
It all started with articles touting the natural beauty of the woods and waterfalls around the Yorkshire village of Ingleton, published in the local Lancaster Guardian newspaper some time in the late 1800’s.
The articles generated so much interest that an Improvements Company was formed to make the waterfalls more accessible. The resulting 4.3 mile (7 km) circuit path was opened to the public – for a small fee – in April 1885. Today, the popular trail, which is situated on private lands, is still open for a fee everyday except Christmas.
It is well worth the price of admission!
The well-maintained trail follows the Rivers Twiss and Doe through countryside designated as a protected area in the United Kingdom (a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI)) for the unique and interesting plants, animals, and geological structures in the area. The rivers run yellow from the rich, peaty soil that the waters travel through before rushing over the ancient rocks that form the Peak District.
Join us for a short walk around some of North Yorkshire’s most beautiful countryside.
Flowers on the Wall The flowers on an old stone wall welcome us to the entrance of the trail. (iPhone6)
“Welcome to the Waterfalls Walk” At the trailhead, a sign marks out the route and highlights some of the walk’s features.
Foamy Waters The waters of the River Twiss are rich with organic materials they have collected along their trip through the Carboniferous Great Scar limestone. When they race through Swilla Glen, natural surfactants create foam at the base of the waterfalls and over the rocks.
The Money Tree It is good luck to ‘plant’ a coin in the fallen tree in Swilla Glen.
The Money Tree Over the years, the tree – and bits of fallen wood around it – has become completely embedded with coin.
Steps in Swilla Glen The trail, although steep in sections with an overall vertical rise of 169 m (554 feet), is beautifully maintained throughout.
Delicate Purple Flower
First Pecca Falls Before long, we can see the first of the Pecca Waterfalls on the River Twiss. Grasses, ferns, and a forest of oak, ash, birch and hazel trees cover the top of the gorge.
Sharp Rocks and Delicate Plants Our climb up to the vantage-point over the falls takes us past exposed slate and sandstone, and the plants that thrive in the moist shadows.
The First Pecca Falls The five Pecca Falls together drop about 30 metres – although the pools at the bases of the falls are said to be as deep again. The waters are a distinctive yellow from the rich, peaty soils upstream.
Wild Roses
Hollybush Spout Our next waterfall is the 8 metre (30 foot) Hollybush Spout. I couldn’t help but wish I had a tripod with me! (ISO200 16mm f/10 1/15 sec)
Ivy on the Post There is something very ‘English’ about ivy.
Pathway Repairs Ingleton Waterfalls Trail is maintained by the Ingleton Scenery Company. The ongoing improvements clearly keep people busy.
Thornton Force The 14-metre high Thornton Force drops over a 330 million-year-old limestone cliff.
River Twiss above Thornton Force The flat areas above Thornton Force make it a popular picnic area.
Raven Ray Bridge over the River Twiss A bit further upstream, walkers cross the River Twiss before climbing up the hillside on the other bank …
Twisleton Lane … to the old Roman road, now known as Twisleton Lane, where an ice-cream truck sits with refreshments for walkers.
Swaledale Sheep The green Yorkshire hills and dales are dotted with off-white, black-faced Swaledale sheep.
Swaledale Tup This hardy local breed is named for the nearby Yorkshire valley of Swaledale.
The Ingleton Coalfield As we round the hill, we have views over one of the smallest coalfields in Great Britain: the Ingleton Coalfield, …
Ingleborough … and across to Ingleborough(723m, 2372ft), one of the “Three Peaks” of the Yorkshire Dales, which are, in turn, part of Britain’sPennines range.
Signposting Walking paths criss-cross the Dales, and circuit the mountains.
Into the Woods Our trail leads into the ancient oak woodlands along the River Doe.
Triple Spout Before long, the River Doe goes over Beezley Falls and then divides into the Triple Spout.
Clouds in a Puddle
Rival Falls on the River Doe
Ingleton and the Viaduct The trail takes us past more magnificent waterfalls before leading back into the village of Ingleton, where the Grade II listed 80-foot arches of the railway viaduct – remains of the Ingleton Branch Line built between 1858 and 1861 – stand over the village and Swilla Glen.
St Mary the Virgin We pass the Ingleton parish church – built in 1886 and dedicated to St Mary – before heading back to our car.
It was a beautiful walk – a small taste of the bucolic Yorkshire Dales.
I’m so glad the locals decided to share it!
[…] It was a half hour’s drive to the Yorkshire Dales, where we walked through woods and fields, over stone bridges, and past numerous waterfalls, singing “All things bright and beautiful” to all the sheep we met – in honour of James Herriot, the original “Yorkshire Vet” and author of the delightful All Creatures Great and Small (see:Ingleton Waterfalls Trail). […]ReplyCancel
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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And at least now my husband can say he remembers Passau!
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Fantastic reportage and photographs, Ursula! Again, you have educated and entertained us with your informative commentary and compelling images. Thanks for sharing.
Many thanks for your visit, Karl! This trip feels like a long time ago…