Sailing on the Gulf of Gökova: Canak Koyu to Çökertme, Türkiye

The rugged coast along the Gulf of Gökova, Karaca Muğla, Türkiye

The Coastline
The Gulf of Gökova, or Gulf of Kerme, has gone by a variety of names over its lifetime. This long (100 km; 62 mi), narrow, arm of the Aegean Sea between the Bodrum and the Datça Peninsulas in south-west Türkiye is marketed for its charming towns, untouched coves, archaeological ruins, and wonderful colours.

Time loses its meaning when you are chugging slowly around Türkiye’s Gulf of Gökova.

Well – not entirely: the days are punctuated by wonderful meals and the occasional landfalls.

I was on a small gulet with nine other passengers and four crew, making various stops around the stunningly beautiful coastline in Türkiye’s south-west. One day, we docked on Cedar Island to visit the gorgeous Cleopatra Beach and wander among Doric ruins (see: Cleopatra was Here!).

The next morning saw us pulling anchor as the sun rose over Canak Bay (Çanak Koyu), in Karaca, on the north coast of the Datça Peninsula. As we breakfasted, our gulet backtracked to dock in Karacasöğüt Bay, Karaca Muğla. There, we went ashore to explore the little locality where the fancy yachts seem to outnumber the simple rural houses.

After that, it gets hazy, as the GPS on my phone and my itinerary didn’t line up – and many distant places have the same names. But, somewhere along the way, we crossed the gulf and anchored in Arpa Bükü Koyu (Barley Bay) near Çökertme Muğla. This region was ravage by the 2021 forest fires around the Mediterranean and Aegean seas (eg: Turkey battles coastal wildfires – in pictures). The evidence could still be seen in the deserted resorts and denuded hills.

Join me for some short shore excursions either side of the Gulf of Gökova.

Yachts at rest in Karacasöğüt Bay, Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye

The Yachts Line Up
The number of beautiful boats in the harbour belies the simple traditional housing on the hill. Karacasöğüt Bay is host to a number of sailing clubs.

Boats in Karacasöğüt Bay, Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye

Checking out the Visitors
The beauty of an organised trip is that the docking formalities are not my problem!

Anchored Vessels Below
Walking up the small, dead-end road behind the sailing academy, I have a good view over a few of the many vessels in the harbour.

Pine Needles
Pine trees line the roadside.

Bright Eyed Squirrel
I get excited when I find any wildlife!

Squirrel in a Pine Tree
Türkiye is home to several squirrel species; I watched this one for a while, but couldn’t get a good enough view to decide which type it was.

A Dusty Street Selfie
I head up into the settlement of Karaca Muğla, and stop to take a selfie in a convex mirror on a blind corner.

A Fig Tree in the Garden
This is a small, rural community – and market gardens surround many of the houses.

Red Berries
The drought-resistant broad-leaf pepper tree (Schinus terebinthifolius) is a popular landscaping ornamental around the Mediterranean.

Rural Life in the Karaca Countryside
Drought resistant plants are a necessity in this hot and arid climate.

Pomegranate – Punica Granatum
Pomegranates say “Mediterranean” to me. They thrive in these hot, dry summers and tolerate poor soils.

Virginia Creeper – Parthenocissus Quinquefolia
Deciduous vines, like these “false grapes”, are often grown on trellises and pergolas; they provide shade in summer and more light in winter.

Cypress Vine – Ipomoea Quamoclit
In spite of the name, these fast-growing vines are thought to be native to the tropics in America.

Boats at Anchor
After a coffee and a spot of shopping in the local Karaca market, I’m back on the deep blue waters.

Sailboat At Anchor
There are endless green-treed coves; many with yachts or gulets anchored in them.

Full Sail In the Gulf
The next morning, we – and other boats – are working our way across the water.

From the Water
We cruise along the rugged terrain on the northern shore of the Gulf of Gökova, where the fires of 2021 charred the previously tree-covered mountains.

Cut Wood
After pulling into the small cove at Arpa Bükü, Çökertme, I go for a walk up the hill.

Nature’s Artworks: Thistles on the Roadside
It’s already October – but it is still hot, and the plants on the dusty track are past their best.

High Noon over Arpa Bükü, Çökertme

Riyekt Sarnici – Old Water Cistern
Up on the hill, I come across a structure – which GoogleMaps has pinpointed as a Historic Landmark. It turns out that this cistern dates back to the Ottoman period, when it was built to meet the region’s water needs.