Portrait of a Papuan man smoking,Sepic PNG

Smoking Man
Dark eyes, facial tattoos, and a cheeky smile: how could I not make a portrait?

Yuorait?“Yu stap gut?” 

The calls of “How are you?” in Papua New Guinea’s Tok-Pisin were all around us when we stopped at a simple roadside stall just outside Maprik in East Sepik Province. The local people who were gathered in the canopied shade – selling their produce, gossiping and chewing betel –  seemed happy to see us, even though they must have known that we waitpela were unlikely to be in the market for any of the yams, taro, coconut, betel nut, ginger or greens on offer.

The market itself was nothing special: corrugated iron roofing on a simple wooden frame covering a flattened dirt floor. Vendors sat in clumps on plastic sheeting or woven mats, or gathered outside the shelter on logs or grassy patches. The produce for sale included the technically illegal and carcinogenic betel nut palm seeds (Areca catechu): that ubiquitous chew that contributes to dental problems and receding gums, and is in evidence all around the country in the gap-toothed and stained smiles that greet visitors.

The local staples of taro, banana, ginger and sweet potato were also in evidence. This is the region of the Abelam people, known for their yam cult: where the men grow huge yams for special ceremonies. The ones we saw in the market were of the more mundane variety, grown only for food.

My attention, though, was on the people. They met me with a direct, unselfconscious gaze that says “I belong here.” That gaze came with open, betel-stained smiles that said, “You are welcome to visit – and to photograph.” 

So I did.

These are the moments I enjoy most when travelling: when – even without a language in common – there  is a sense of communion between our eyes and across the camera.

You, too, are welcome.

Papuan men with woven palms in the Road, Maprik PNG

Men in the Road
It may be the Sepik Highway, but like most of the roads in Papua New Guinea – when they exist at all – the main road from Wewak to Pagwi is rough, with its shoulders falling away. These men were off to Sunday church choir practice at a nearby school.

Papuan woman Selling vegetables, Maprik PNG

Selling Vegetables
The “market” itself is a corrugated iron roof over a flat dirt floor.

Market Yams, Taro and Ginger for sale, Maprik PNG

Market Yams, Taro and Ginger
Some of the vendors use plastic sheeting to display their produce.

Child Selling Cigarettes and betel nuts, roadside market, Maprik PNG

Child Selling Cigarettes, Areca Catechu and “Snax”
It is not uncommon to see children put to work. It is alarming, however, when they are selling tobacco, betel nut, and junk food.

Papuan girl eating sweets in a market, Maprik PNG

Snacking Girl
Of course, selling things is less arduous when you can snack during your shift.

Old Papuan woman in a hat with two toddlers, roadside market, Maprik PNG

“Have Some Mango!”
It is dark under the market roof, but it is not cool. I can’t help but marvel that Grannie feels the need to wear a hat!

Portrait of young Papuan girl with her laughing brother behind her, Maprik PNG

Toddlers
Young children are always impossible to resist!

Young Papuan man chewing betel nut, Maprik PNG

Chewing Areca Catechu
I find it hard to watch people with their mouths over-full with betel nut chew. I think this young man sensed that, and delighted in showing off.

Mother and Child, market, Maprik PNG

Mother and Child
An infant clings to mum, …

Papuan infant, market, Maprik PNG

Curious Infant
… but braves a look at me over her shoulder.

Women seated in the dirt at the Roadstop market, Maprik PNG

Women at the Roadstop

Portrait of Papuan women with tattooed faces, Maprik PNG

Tattooed Faces
The smudgy, faded tattoos on people’s foreheads and cheeks didn’t seem to follow a set design. I was told they were “just patterns”. In the old days, tribal tattooing was more extensive and took prescribed forms.

Papuan woman smoking a cheroot, Maprik PNG

Smoking Woman
A woman, with her colourful bilum – a traditional woven string bag – at her feet, …

Portrait: Papuan woman smoking a cheroot, Maprik PNG

Smoking Woman
… enjoys her smoke. Tailor made cigarettes, self-rolled tobacco, and cheroots are everywhere. 

Portrait: Papuan woman with a mouth full of chew, Maprik PNG

Tattooed Betel-Chewing Woman
Tobacco is also often combined with betel nuts as a chewing mixture.

Portrait: Smiling Papuan woman, Maprik PNG

Portrait in Purple
Even with the clear betel-damage, …

Portrait: Smiling Papuan woman, Maprik PNG

Portrait in Purple
… these people have beautiful smiles.

Portrait: Smiling Papuan woman in Braids, Maprik PNG

Woman in Braids

A group of foreign photographers under a tree, Maprik PNG

Photographers
The down-side of traveling with a group of photographers is that they can all “clump” in one or two spots! I was on a Jim Cline tour with photographer Karl Grobl.

Thatched house, Maprik PNG

Maprik Buildings
I decided to escape the pack, and wander behind the market where I found a cluster of traditional thatched huts and fibrocement houses.

Portrait: Young Papuan person, Maprik PNG

Young Person
There too, I found people willing to be photographed.

Portrait: Young Papuan woman, Maprik PNG

Young Woman

Elegant Woman

Woman in Front of her House

Portrait of a smiling Papuan man, Maprik PNG

Young Man
One of the last pictures I took at this stop was of the big smile of the young man who opened this set.

I returned to our bus in good spirits.

Text: Keep smilingIt is hard not to feel happy when you have been so warmly welcomed.

Until next time,

Keep Smiling!

Photographs: 13August2017

  • Diane - April 13, 2018 - 11:14 pm

    I love these pictures. I have a couple that are similar, but you have so many! They really flesh out the story.
    How are you?ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - April 16, 2018 - 7:54 am

      Hi Diane,
      Thanks so much, Diane! Glad to see you on line, and hope you are well.
      We are “All at Sea” at the moment – off the coast of Spain and loving it!
      Cheers, UReplyCancel

  • Peter Simon Yehiwambu - June 2, 2019 - 12:52 pm

    Nice PhotosReplyCancel

  • […] Hagen, and take three hours.) The next day, we rode a bumpy bus for five hours (with stops; see: Maprik Market Portraits) to Pagwi before getting into motorised dugout boats for a leisurely two-hour trip up the […]ReplyCancel

  • […] to get one of the few direct flights to Wewak. From there, it was a long, bumpy bus ride (see: Maprik Market Portraits) to Pagwi. The next leg of the journey was a leisurely two-hour trip up the mighty Sepik River in a […]ReplyCancel

Night view of the Hungarian Parliament Buildings from the Danube, Budapest

Hungarian Parliament Buildings
It is impossibly romantic: sitting on a boat on the Danube, cruising noiselessly past the fronts of Budapest’s floodlit ancient buildings, under a sky full of stars.

It is no wonder that Budapest is called one of the most beautiful cities in Europe!

Approaching it from the Danube River that runs between what were originally the separate cities of Buda on the right bank and Pest on the left, renders it magical: this section of old city along the Banks of the Danube, together with the Buda Castle Quarter and Andrássy Avenue have been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987 for being an “outstanding example of urban development in Central Europe, characterised by periods of devastation and revitalisation.”

For my husband and myself, Budapest was the last port-of-call on what had been the most perfect of cruises down the Danube River from Passau (for previous posts, see: Ursula’s Weekly Wanders “Danube”). This final city held extra poignancy because my husband’s mother was from here, and he still has relatives living in the area – some of whom we managed to meet.

But, even without the family connection, the city is a gem, easily explored on foot and using public transport. We had the luxury of arriving by canal boat, allowing us to enjoy the incomparable views from the river. We also made use of the guide provided with our “package” to accompany our walk across the famous Szechenyi Chain Bridge, facilitate our ride up the Budapest Castle Hill Funicular, and show us the way around Buda Castle Hill, before we wandered back through the Pest side of the city on our own. 

This is just a sampling of the wonderful buildings and other sights.

View under Margaret Bridge toward the Hungarian Parliament Building, Budapest

Margaret Bridge
As we finally draw past Margaret Island and head under the second oldest public bridge (1872-1876) in Budapest – the Margaret Bridge (Margit Híd) – the Hungarian Parliament Building comes into view.

Hungarian Parliament Buildings from the Danube River, Budapest

Hungarian Parliament Buildings
The magnificent Gothic Revival parliament building was designed to face the river, and built (1885-1896) to prize-winning plans by Hungarian architect Imre Steindl.

Buda Reformed Church, Budapest from the Danube, Hungary

Buda Reformed Church
Szilágyi Dezső Square Reformed Church is a 19th century (built 1894-1896) Protestant church on the Buda side of the Danube.

The Danube River Embankment, Budapest Hungary

The Danube River Embankment
The elegant civic architecture on the banks of the Danube River contributes to Budapest’s UNESCO listing for being “one of the world’s outstanding urban landscapes.”

The Chain Bridge - Széchenyi Lánchíd from the Danube, Budapest, Hungary

The Chain Bridge – Széchenyi Lánchíd
Budapest’s most famous bridge, the Chain Bridge, was the city’s first permanent bridge over the Danube. Originally built between 1842 and 1849, it was destroyed during the siege of the city in 1945, and rebuilt in its original form between 1947 and 1949.

Buda Castle through a porthole non the Danube, Budapest Hungary

Through the Porthole
Buda Castle sits high on Castle Hill as we cruise into our Danube River docking site.

Stone lion statues on Chain Bridge, Budapest Hungary

Stone Lion (1852)
Once our boat is moored, we head out on our walking tour across the Chain Bridge. Stone lions carved by Hungarian sculptor Marschalko János (1818-1877) stand guard at each bridgehead.

Pedestrians on Széchenyi Chain Bridge, Budapest Hungary

Széchenyi Lánchíd – Széchenyi Chain Bridge
The 375 metres (1,230 ft) suspension bridge across the Danube was designed by the English engineer William Tierney Clark in 1839, and named for its champion, Count István Széchenyi.

Colourful locks on the Chain Bridge, Budapest Hungary

Locks on the Chain Bridge
Lovers add their modern marks to the old bridge.

Funicular to Buda Castle, Budapest Hungary

Funicular to Buda Castle
On the Buda side of the Chain Bridge, we come to Budavári Sikló, the funicular that will take us up to Budapest Castle Hill. When it was first opened in 1870, this was only the second funicular rail in Europe. It was destroyed during the Second World War and rebuilt to the original design in 1983.

Hungarian woman guide at the Buda Castle Funicular entrance, Budapest

Eszter at the Turnstile
Our local guide eases our way onto the funicular for our short ride to the top.

View over Pest and Parliament of Hungary from Buda Hill, Budapest

Budapest from the Hill
From Buda Hill we have a wonderful view over the Danube, and the Parliament of Hungary.

Habsburg Gate - Entrance to the Royal Palace, Buda, Hungary

Habsburg Gate – Entrance to the Royal Palace
The historical castle and palace complex here have been rebuilt many times over the years: most recently by the Habsburgs, long-time Austrian rulers of the Kingdom of Hungary .

Habsburg Gate, Buda Hill Hungary

Habsburg Gate
Intricate wrought ironwork is typical of the Baroque style favoured across the current palace – built between 1749 and 1769.

Courtyard at the Entrance to the Royal Budapest Palace, Buda Hill, Hungary

Entrance to the Royal Palace
Today, the castle area houses the Hungarian National Gallery, the Castle Museum, the National Széchenyi Library, and also includes extensive empty spaces and old ruins.

Széchenyi Chain Bridge from Buda Hill, Budapest Hungary

Széchenyi Chain Bridge from Buda Hill

Hungarian doll in a souvenir shop, Buda Hill, Budapest Hungary

Souvenirs and Handicrafts
The cobblestone streets on Buda Hill are lined with baroque houses, Habsburg monuments, parks, coffee shops, and handicrafts shops.

Colourful building fronts, Buda Street, Hungary

Tárnok Street, Buda

Tárnok St towards Plaque Tower and the Cathedral of St Matthias, Budapest Hungary

Budai Várnegyed – Buda Castle District
We have plenty of room as we walk towards the Cathedral of St Matthias and Trinity Square, with the Plague Tower standing tall in front of the neo-Gothic House of the Hungarian Culture Foundation.

Plague Column in Buda Castle, Budapest Hungary

Baroque Trinity Column
All over Central Europe in the 17th century, survivors of the Great Plague of 1679 built Plague Columns, either incorporating the Virgin Mary or the Holy Trinity, to give thanks for their deliverance.

Roofline of Matthias Church, Budapest Hungary

Matthias Church
The Church of Our Lady – more commonly called Matthias Church (Mátyás-templom), for King Matthias Corvinus the Fair – was built in late Gothic style in the 14th century, and extensively restored in the late 19th century. The intricate roofline with its colourful tiles is quite beautiful.

Fisherman

Halászbástya – Fisherman’s Bastion
The courtyard around the Fisherman’s Bastion (1895 – 1902), a seven-turreted 19th-century fortress, was undergoing work when we visited, …

Fisherman

Fisherman’s Bastion
… but it was still fascinating walking around this unusual structure. The seven towers (two of which are pictured here) represent the seven Magyar (Hungarian) tribes that settled in the Carpathian Basin in 895.

Fisherman

Reflections of the Magyars

Statue of Joseph (József Nádor), Budapest Hungary

Joseph (József Nádor), Archduke of Austria and Hungary
We enjoyed glorious weather, as we wandered back through the public squares …

Painted eggs and plates in a shop window, Budapest Hungary

Layers of Handicraft
… and shops of downtown Budapest, …

Széchenyi Chain Bridge and Matthias Church after dark from the Danube, Budapest Hungary

Széchenyi Chain Bridge and Matthias Church
… before returning to our boat to admire the dazzling display of Budapest night lights from the river.

Royal Palace after dark from the Danube, Budapest Hungary

Royal Palace
The palace on Buda Hill, and the funicular we rode up to walk around it, look very different after dark!

Text: Happy TravelsWhat a beautiful city! It is indeed – as UNESCO puts it – an outstanding urban landscape.

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 22August2014

A Baris Tunggal dancer, Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Baris War Dance
A Baris Tunggal dancer (that is, a solo Baris dancer) performs his stylised routine at the Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod in Bali.

Balinese dance is an integral part of life on this tiny Indonesian island.

Bali has a richness of unique culture that is immediately apparent to its many tourist-visitors. The productiveness of its lush, terraced rice fields and its relatively equitable division of food and labour have allowed the people time to develop and expand their religious and cultural traditions, and to express these through art, carving, music and dance.  

In Bali, dance and drama are interchangeable: age-old dance-drama stories are depicted through precise, stylised movements: movements that include defined body-shape and placement; finger, hand and arm gestures; and the quick, bird-like motions of the neck, head and eyes. The makeup and costuming are as much a part of the ancient traditions as the dances themselves. 

Balinese children learn the more important dances from an early age – “dancing” with their hands before they can walk. Formal training can start as young as age five. Legong (“leg” meaning “beautiful movements” and “gong” meaning “melodious sound”) dancers, in particular, were traditionally recruited from the ablest and prettiest children. By fourteen, these dancers were approaching retirement – although the performers in tourist shows these days tend to be older.

Basically, whether classical or contemporary, Balinese dances fall into three broad genres: 1) sacred religious and ceremonial dances, some rooted in Hindu epic stories – like the ubiquitous Ramayana saga depicting the divine Prince Rama’s efforts to rescue his wife Sita from a demon king ; 2) semi-sacred dances featuring masked dancers, and depicting battles between good and evil – like the mythical evil witch Rangda versus the lion or dragon Barong, who represents good; and 3) entertainment dances, including the classical Legong, performed at social gatherings and for tourists. In 2015, UNESCO inscribed these three form of dance as examples of “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity”.

Of course, you don’t have to know any of this to enjoy a Balinese dance performance. My husband and I didn’t, when we bought our Rp.75,000 ($USD5.50) tickets for the Sunday evening performance of the Sanggar Pondok Pekak dance troupe at the Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod hall in Ubud. As my very old (1999) Lonely Planet Bali & Lombok (7th ed) put it: “The most important thing about Balinese dances is that they’re fun and accessible. Balinese dance … can be exciting and enjoyable for almost anyone with just the slightest effort.”

And it was true: the lively rhythms, wonderful costumes and comical facial expressions made the dances great fun to watch.

In front of Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Banjar Ubud Kelod
The front of the Legong Dance performance hall is marked in typical Balinese style.

Decorative Wall Relief, Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Wall Relief inside Banjar Ubud Kelod

The Empty Stage, Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

The Empty Stage
As we find seats in the auditorium, we can admire the finish on the small stage.

Balinese men in sarongs and udeng enter the stage, , Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

The Musicians Enter
The first performers to take the stage are the musicians from the gamelan orchestra.

Gamelan Musicians on metallophones and drums, Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Gamelan Musicians
A gamelan orchestra includes metallophones, played by mallets, hand-played drums, …

Gamelan Musicians on xylophones and flutes, Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Gamelan Musicians
… xylophones, flutes, gongs, voices, and strings.

Sekar Jagat Welcome Dance, Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Sekar Jagat Welcome Dance
The first dance is a group of young women in their fantastic makeup and headdress, making a ritual offering to welcome the audience – and any gods that might be in attendance.

A Baris Tunggal dancer, Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Baris War Dance
Baris dances are traditional war dances in three parts: depicting the studied and careful movements of a young warrior before battle, glorifying the self-assurance of the triumphant Balinese warrior, and displaying the his commanding heroic presence.

A Baris Tunggal dancer, Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Baris War Dance
The richly embroidered costume includes ornate fabric panels, known as awiran, which hang from his body over white leggings called celana.

Portrait of a Legong Dancer, Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Legong Dancer
Legong dances are characterised by intricate finger movements, complicated footwork, and exaggerated facial expressions.

Three Legong Dancers, Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Legong Dancers
The Legong Kraton (“Legend of the Palace”) Dance, features two identically dressed dancers and an attendant.

Two Legong Dancers, Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Legong Dancers
The pair of legong dancers in their tight silk and gold costumes mirror each another’s movements.

Gamelan Musicians on metallophones and drums, Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Gamelan Musicians

Kebyar Dancer, Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Kebyar Dancer
Kebyar dances are abstract non-narrative solo dances in which the focus is upon the dancer him- or herself.

Kebyar Dancer, Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Kebyar Dance
Much of the contemporary Kebyar Duduk (Taruna Jaya) dance from North Bali is performed in a sitting position.

Female Oleg Dancer, Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Oleg Tambulilingan
Choreographed in 1952, Oleg Tambulilingan is a duet depicting the courtship of two bumblebees.

Female Oleg Dancer, Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Oleg Dancer
Those eyes! The female bumblebee flits from flower to flower in a beautiful garden.

Male Oleg Dancer, Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Oleg Tambulilingan
The male bumblebee tries to attract the female’s attention.

Jauk Dancer, Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Jauk Dancer
The Jauk Dance is a classical solo mask dance dating to the 18th century. The masked dancer improvises as a playful, but sinister demon.

Performers take their bows, Balai Banjar Ubud Kelod, Bali

Taking Bows
At the end of an entertaining and eventful program of modern and classical pieces, the performers bid us good evening.

It was a most enjoyable glimpse into rich Balinese cultural and story-telling traditions, and it was without reservation that we booked into our next taste of Balinese performance: a Kecak show at Tanah Lot. More about that some other time (see: Tari Kecak, Uluwatu) …

Text: Happy Travels

Until then,

Happy Travels!

Photos: 29January2017

  • […] Dance and drama are integral to guarding the traditional cultural stories and developing modern artistic expressions firmly rooted in the past: “In Bali, dance and drama are interchangeable: age-old dance-drama stories are depicted throug… […]ReplyCancel

Prayer Lamps, lit and unlit, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Prayer Lamps
It makes for a peaceful moment of simple reflection: lighting a small lamp while saying a prayer of gratitude or supplication. What better way to mark our overnight stay at Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery at Namo Buddha in the Kathmandu Valley Rim!

Prayers and dal bhat for breakfast.

It doesn’t get much simpler than that.

An overnight stay at the guesthouse at the Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, some 40 kilometres from Kathmandu, Nepal, is like stepping into another world: a timeless space where the drone of Tibetan Buddhist chanting – punctuated by gongs and cymbals – resonates through the crisp, crystal clear mountain air.

Life for visitors to the monastery is uncomplicated: join the monks for evening and morning prayers (or not) before partaking of basic vegetarian meals. But, you don’t have to opt out of the modern world completely; although the guesthouse has no television, radio or telephones, my local phone package allowed me to access my email and Instagram, and the nearby Thrangu Café on site has meals, coffee, and soft-drinks for those who don’t want to forgo lunch, treats, or caffeine. 

A friend and I were in Nepal for a few days ahead of a workshop out of Kathmandu with photographer Gavin Gough, and the opportunity to go for a trek was too good to pass up. Under the watchful eye of local guide Angfula Sherpa, we were to spend four days along sections of the Kathmandu Valley Cultural Trekking Trail. So far, we had managed our first day: driving from Kathmandu to Panuti, and walking from there to Namo Buddha (see: Dirt Music and Sunshine, and Light and Dark in the Windows and Doors). 

The Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, founded in 1979 by Thrangu Rinpoche, was a wonderful bonus after our day’s walk. It sits at 1738 meters, at the top of Gandha Malla Hill above the Namo Buddha Stupa, treating the visitor to glorious sunrises, sunsets, and views over the foothills and the snow-capped Himalaya.

Namo Buddha is one of the most important Buddhist religious sites in Nepal. It was near here, so the story goes, that a prince by the name of Mahasattva, was out walking with his two brothers when he came across a tigress. She was trying to nurse five cubs, but was starving and about to die. Prince Sattva (rather generously, one would think!) offered the tigress his blood and flesh so that she and the cubs might survive. The bones – all that remained of him – were buried under a stupa at the nearby village. Some 3500 years later, the Gautam Buddha walked three times around the stupa, then declared that he was the reincarnation of Mahasattva. The village was renamed “Namo Buddha” which means “Hommage to Buddha”.

It is possible to get to the monastery by car or public transport, and while we were staying, buses and car loads of pilgrims and tourists arrived at the road head.

Still, I think I enjoyed the stillness and the views all the more for having “earned” them with a nice long walk!

Afternoon view from Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Afternoon Light
After we settle into our rooms at the Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery Guesthouse, we head over to the main temple. It is just after five in the evening, and the late winter sun puts a glow in the buildings around us. No photos can be taken in the rooms inside.

Clean stainless steel dishes, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery Kitchen, Namo Buddha Nepal

Monastery Kitchen
The kitchen has to cater for the more than 250 resident monks, and for visitors like us. It is big, and the stacks of stainless steel dishes are spotless. (iPhone6)

Afternoon view from Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

View from the Temple
The hills and the delicate skies roll off quietly into the distance while the monks chant their evening prayers upstairs. (iPhone6)

Sunrise over the Namo Buddha Hills, Nepal

Sunrise over the Namo Buddha Hills
We are up early the next morning to attend the monks’ morning prayers before breakfast. Just before six am, the sun warms the sky over the hills around us. (iPhone6)

Morning view from Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Morning around Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery
Early sun lights the terraced hills around the monastery, and the morning mists hang low in the valleys.

Three young monks and a dog, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Novices and a Dog
About 70 young monks reside and study at the monastery school. I’m sure the animals are some comfort to young boys living away from their homes.

Two young monks going into a dark kitchen, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Into the Kitchen
Of course, the young students are kept busy with morning chores; these two are heading into the dark kitchen, …

Three monks on the path, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Monks on the Path
… while others are rushing between buildings around the complex.

Layers of mist and mountain from Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Morning Layers
The morning mists rise slowly. In mid-March it is still winter, and the the mountain air at 7.30am is cool.

Stone Statue of Buddha, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Stone Statue of the Lord Buddha
This Buddha, with hands in Bhumisparsha mudra (or “earth witness” hand gesture – representing touching the earth at the moment of the his enlightenment), is speaking to his first disciples.

Stone Statue of Buddha, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Stone Statue of the Lord Buddha
The vase between the Buddha and his disciples represents the container holding the bones of Mahasattva – an earlier incarnation of Buddha Shakyamuni – who fed his body to a tigress on the hill near here.

Prayer Flags, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Prayer Flags
There are prayers flags everywhere, fluttering their messages of peace, strength, compassion, and wisdom on the wind to inspire all people.

Masses of prayer flags, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Lungta Prayer Flags
Lungta (wind horse) flags are squares of cloth strung on a line in the colours of the five Tibetan elements: blue for the sky, white for the wind, red representing fire, green symbolising water, and yellow for the earth.

Mountain landscape from Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Endless Skies
The sky and the mountains stretch out forever.

Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery
From the hill, we can look back over the monastery, and appreciate the size and beauty of the complex.

Old Tibetan-Nepali woman looking after a Shrine, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Woman Looking after a Shrine
Walking along the ridge, we pass shrines; the people tending them greet us eagerly and usher us in.

People in a shrine area, Prayer Lamps, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Angfula and the Lamps
In the shrine area, prayer flags can be bought and blessed, the right to light lamps can be bought, and donations can be made.

Prayer Lamps, lit and unlit, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Prayer Lamps
Light symbolises the wisdom that drives away darkness.

Candles and Coins at a dark shrine, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Candles and Coins

Cement shrine housing the Mother Tiger Den, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Den of the Mother Tiger
This is where Mahasattva – a previous incarnation of Gautama Buddha – offered a starving tigress his blood and flesh to save her life and that of her cubs.

Mountains on the Haze, Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Mountains on the Haze
Snow-capped Himalaya float on the clouds and haze over the terraced hills of the Kathmandu Valley.

Nepali guide on the dirt path downThrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, Namo Buddha Nepal

Angfula on the Dirt Path Down
There is no more time to explore: we need to make a start on our day’s walk. Angfula sets off down the dirt track towards the town of Namo Buddha.

Red rhododendron in bloom, Nepal

Rhododendron
Flowers sit high in the trees over our heads …

Namo Buddha Stupa from the path, Nepal

Namo Buddha Stupa
… as the stupu built over Prince Sattva’s bones come into sight.

We had more walking in the fresh Nepali mountain air in front of us –

Sign-Off-Namaste

and I was looking forward to every step!

Until next time,

Namaste!

Pictures: 6-7March2017

Captain Sponge on his canopied oyster punt, Pambula Australia

“Captain Sponge”
Brett Weingarth, better known as “Sponge”, takes groups out onto Pambula Lake and Pambula River to visit the oyster leases and learn about oysters and oyster farming.

It is always a joy to meet someone who loves their work!

Brett Weingarth is an oyster farmer who is so excited about oysters, and the environment they grow in, that he conducts regular tours of the oyster leases on the tidal waters of Pambula Lake (Broadwater), just off Australia’s southeastern Sapphire Coast. Brett grew up  “dryland” farming, but moved off the land and onto the water during one of Australia’s worst droughts. He now operates a number of oyster leases on Pambula Lake, the Pambula River, and nearby Merimbula Lake. In the process of learning about oyster farming, Brett has also become knowledgeable about region’s coastal waterways and passionate about protecting them. Oysters have been called the ‘canaries of the waterway’– they are an indicator of estuarine health. Therefore, environmental protection projects and local small business models go hand-in-hand.

The waters here are special: this is where the warm, fast flowing East Australian Current, which originates in the tropical Coral Sea, meets and clashes with the cold, nutrient-filled waters running north from Antarctica. The confluence of these two currents results in a rich marine bio-diversity – and a thriving seafood industry. Branded under “Australia’s Oyster Coast”, Pambula oyster growers take advantage of the daily tidal exchange of waters rushing in from the Pacific Ocean, and the fresh water flowing out from the Pambula and Yowaka Rivers, producing three premium export-quality oyster species: endemic Sydney Rock Oysters, the rarer native Angasi, and the popular Pacific Oysters introduced from Japan.

Although the weather didn’t really favour us the day we had booked for our Oyster Tour, at least we didn’t have to get up too early. The tide-tables meant that our Boxing Day tour left around noon, rather than the usual crack-of-dawn start! That gave us plenty of time to digest our Christmas lunch from the day before, and find the jetty that “Captain Sponge’s Magical Oyster Tours” calls home.

Captain Sponges Oversized Oyster Punt, Landing Road, Pambula Australia

Captain Sponge’s Oversized Oyster Punt
The “Magical Oyster Tours” boat is functional and sheltered enough for the two-hour cruise around the estuary. Licensed to carry a maximum of 23 people, our smaller group – once they all arrived – had plenty of room on the cushioned benches.

Brett Weingarth briefing passengers on his oyster punt, Landing Road, Pambula Australia

Introductory Briefing
Before we push away from the shore, Brett gives us the requisite safety briefing.

Oyster Shells on the rocks at the dock, Landing Road Pambula Australia

Oyster Shells on the Shore
And we are off! There is evidence of rich oyster life everywhere we look. For thousand of years before European settlement, Thaua Aboriginal people of the Yuin Nation caught and ate oysters here: all around the coastline, there are ancient kitchen middens piled high with shells.

Oyster Shack and oyster lease, Pambula River, Australia

Oyster Shack
On both sides of the river, oyster trays are tied together on the waters. This tiny oyster shack sports an Australia’s Oyster Coast (AOC) sign, indicating it is part of the AOC growers’ collective.

Disused Oyster Trays, Pambula River, Australia

Disused Oyster Frames

Mangroves on the Foreshore, Pambula River, Australia

Mangroves on the Foreshore
Mangroves are uniquely adapted to brackish tidal waters. In turn, they help protect the shorelines where they live: their roots and breathing tubes reduce erosion, capture nutrients, and shelter small creatures from waves and water movement.

Jet skis and picnickers on Pambula River, Australia

Recreation on the River
The extensive twists and arms of the Pambula River make for popular recreation sites – especially in the middle of an Australian summer. 

Kayaks on Pambula River, Australia

Kayaks
Holiday-makers are out with kayaks …

Jet Skis and riders at a Dock, Pambula River, Australia

Jet Skis at the Dock
… power boats and jet skis.

Aluminium Tinnie docked at Broadwater Oyster

Aluminium Tinnie at the Oyster Shed
I guess the oysters aren’t too worried by all the other activity on the water. Nor do they care about public holidays. People are busy at work at the Broadwater Oyster’s buildings.

Two people in a kayak on Pambula Lake, Australia

Double Kayak
I always laugh when I see two people in a kayak: I had an instructor who called these double kayaks “divorce boats”. It can be difficult for two people to stay coordinated, leading to potential struggles maintaining the desired direction.

Oyster Farm, Pambula Lake, Australia

“Oyster Farm 81/091”
There are countless farms on the lake. In numbered lots, oyster baskets stretch out on the waves, …

Oyster Farm, Pambula Lake, Australia

Neat Rows
… running in straight lines in all directions, …

Oyster Lease, Pambula Lake, Australia

Oyster Lease
… or straining in curves against the currents. Clearly, every farmer has their preferred method of growing these popular bivalve molluscs.

A man working his oyster lease, Pambula Lake, Australia

Working the Farm
There is a lot of work in oyster farming, but Brett says he loves being on the water and choosing his own hours.

Covered oyster trays, Pambula Lake, Australia

Oyster Beds
Oysters need to be tumbled around in a semi-controlled way or their shells will become too thin and flat. The trays are covered, protecting them from the sun and from predators.

Oyster farmer over the side of his punt, Pambula Lake, Australia

Brett Goes Overboard!
Brett hangs off the side of his punt …

Oyster farmer over the side of his punt, Pambula Lake, Australia

Lifting the Lid
… to check the size and health of his crop.

Oysters in their metal growing frame, Pambula Lake, Australia

Oysters in their Frame

A plate of fresh oysters with lemon and lime sections, Pambula Lake Australia

Fruits of the Farm
Oysters have to be eaten (or cooked or processed) fresh. Tour participants had the opportunity to “shuck” fresh oysters with different purpose-built knives before we all got to taste-test the produce.

Sapphire waters on the foreshores of Pambula Lake, Australia

Sapphire Waters
As we are heading back to the dock, there is a break in the weather and the sapphire waters that give this stretch of coastline its name shine through.

The Crippled Maxi Yacht Wild Oats XI in Snug Cove, Eden Australia

Wild Oats XI
Before heading home for the day, we stopped at another wharf, one town over: Snug Cove, in Eden, where the crippled maxi yacht Wild Oats XI had limped in after failing to complete the Sydney to Hobart yacht race because of a broken hydraulic ram.

There is always something interesting happening on our local waters.

Text: Safe SailingOur oyster tour was most enjoyable, informative, and – best of all – tasty!

Until next time, 

Safe Sailing!

Photos: 26December2016