.jpg) Over the Rooftops
How lucky am I? This is the view from the room I was staying in the historic centre of medieval Cahors in the south of France. I love how European cities have protected their historic centres.
And, I love how one doesn’t have to forgo any modern creature comforts to enjoy these old quarters!
Cahors, near Toulouse in the Occitan Region of Southern France, features an old-town centre of half-timbered houses, Renaissance windows, and narrow alleyways.
I had never heard of Cahors – although I’d been in the general region many times before (eg: Weekly Wanders Southern France). On this trip, I took the train south from Paris to visit a friend; one of the beauties of having been an Expat is having friends who live in some less-travelled corners of the world.
Cahors truly was a delight! I’ve posted before about Pont Valentré, the fortified bridge from the middle ages that has become the symbol of the city (see: A Pilgrim Pathway and a Medieval Bridge) and about the beautiful St. Étienne Cathedral (see: The Heart of Cahors), which – like the bridge – is UNESCO-Heritage Listed as part of the French portion of the pilgrim paths to Santiago de Compostela.
I was staying right in the midst of it!
I was lodging in a beautifully modern, retrofitted apartment in a preserved, period-building in the medieval quarter of town. The one bedroom apartment (Bel Appartement), which is usually rented out, belongs to my friend and her partner, and is a short walk from their place.
I was impressed with the whole of the historic town, and marvelled at how all the modern conveniences were nestled into priceless old building of great heritage value.
It was autumn, and so it rained. A lot. But It was still a pleasure walking the cobbled streets among buildings that date back centuries. Join me:
.jpg) Pont Valentré
First port-of-call on any walk around Cahors is the beautifully preserved bridge that pilgrims have crossed since it was opened in 1350 (see: A Pilgrim Pathway and a Medieval Bridge). .jpg) Lycée Gambetta Clock Tower
I started my wet-weather explorations early – following my interests rather than the map. The clock tower from the Gambetta boys’ high school caught my eye. I don’t know when it was built, but the building operated as a Jesuit school between 1604 and 1762 – and currently houses a mixed high school.  Place François Mitterrand
A walk to the Tourist Office (in the building in the background) takes me through the square named for France’s longest-serving president. Léon Gambetta (1838 – 1882)
The statue of in the centre of the square is of a Cahors-born lawyer and republican politician. Autumn Leaves Jean-Baptiste Bessières, Duc d’Istrie (1768 – 1813)
In the park west of the square, I find another statue: this one honouring a French military leader during the French Revolutionary Wars and the Napoleonic Wars. Southern Magnolia – Magnolia Grandiflora Fallen Leaves Street Art
Keeping a medieval city vibrant and relevant is a balancing act! Medieval Street
The original building fronts hide modern interiors. (iPhone15Pro) Rooftops
The Roman Catholic Saint-Etienne Cathedral (see: The Heart of Cahors) is the centrepiece of the old town, and visible from all around. Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors
It dominates the narrow streets … Inside Saint Stephen’s Cloisters
… and is well worth exploring. Another Medieval Street (iPhone15Pro) The Dog Fountain
You never know what you will find! In the centre of Place Alain-de-Solminihac is a fountain made in 1992 by Jean-Luc Bertrand, a stonemason in Cahors. Square Olivier de Magny (1529 – 1561)
The town is known for its heritage half-timber houses; several face the square named for a French poet born in Cahors. 12 Rue Daurade
Possibly the most noteworthy is this one from the late 13th century. L’Ange du Lazaretin – the Angel of the Lazaret
In nearby Place Clément-Marot, almost on the doorstep of the north portal of the cathedral, this mournful bronze sculpture by Marc Petit (1961 – ) seems to be crying in the rain for those souls sequestered in quarantine hospitals for people with infectious diseases. Place Clément-Marot
Meanwhile, life in the rain goes on. Arched Doorway (iPhone15Pro) The Little Train of Cahors
A tourist train makes regular circuits with live commentary around town. Building and renovation work – under strictly monitored guidelines – goes on all around in the Rue du Château du Roi. Worn Windows
Renovations are costly – and not every façade is like new. Scooter in a Laneway Renaissance Windows Mail Delivery  The town truly was a delight, and I hope to be able to get back there one day!
Until then,
Bon Voyage!
Pictures: 25-28September2024
A Well-Weathered Wooden Boat
Called shikara in Kashmir, spade shaped wooden paddle-boats – with or without canopies – are essential to life on Dal Lake in Srinagar, India. The first day I was on Dal Lake – the centrepiece of Srinagar in the North Indian territory of Jammu and Kashmir (J&K), I felt like I was in a dream – or a Monet painting (see: Floating in a Dream).
The air is hot and thick. The stillness is punctuated by the plunk of boat oars in the water, the soft chattering of waterbirds in the floating vegetation, the distant talking of people on the wooden walkways or in their own boats, and the occasional rumble of a outboard motor.
The lake itself is nutrient-rich, so there is green all around: weeds and water plants float on the surface and tall willows and poplars line the edges and filter the blazing light of an afternoon sun.
I was being lulled into an otherworldly state as I lounged on the cushions inside a covered shikara enroute to a wood-carving workshop, operated by one family for generations: even the crafts in Srinagar are timeless.
The famous traditional shikara boats, used for fishing and transport, and the houseboats that originated in the 19th century so that Europeans – who weren’t permitted to buy land – had somewhere to live, are both generally carved from local cedar-wood. Cedrus deodara, deodar or Himalayan cedar, is a local tree that is remarkably durable and rot-resistant, with a fine, close grain, capable of taking a high polish.
Despite its durability, deodar is not a strong timber, and its brittle nature makes it unsuitable for delicate work where strength is required, such as chair-making. On the other hand, Juglans regia, the common walnut or Persian walnut is a species of walnut prized by fine woodworkers for its durability and lustre. J&K is the only place in India where you find walnut trees, making it the preferred timber for delicate carving and wooden furniture.
The Kashmiri traditions of walnut carving date back to at least the 15th century – variously attributed to Sheikh Hamza Makhdoom (c. 1494 – c. 1576), or Zayn al-Abidin the Great (1395 – 1470). Today, a decline in demand, thanks to competition from mass-produced products, and a reduced interest by young people in becoming skilled artisans (see: Artisans seek revival of dying walnut wood carving), is putting the centuries-old craft at risk.
Join me and a small group of photography enthusiasts in a classic deodar shikara, as we weave through the waterways in search of a walnut-carving workshop:
Man on a Walkway
With the strong Indian autumn light filtering through the willow trees at the water’s edge, and the plants on the surface of the water breaking up the reflections, I feel as if I’m wandering through a Monet painting. Woman Walking Tall
I can’t help but admire the wonderfully regal way with which the local women carry themselves. Busy Waterway
It is a busy afternoon, and there are other shikaras everywhere on the water. Empty Shikara
The wonderfully decorated boats come in all colours. Green Waterways and Tall Buildings Indian Pond Heron – Ardeola Grayii
In a dark corner, a common paddy bird looks for its dinner. Tall Buildings and Narrow Waterways
The waterways continue. Reflections of Wood and Bricks
The buildings seem to be a mix of up-market dwellings and businesses and boarded-up empty premises. Shadows on the Porch
It seems we have reached our destination! The Wood Carver
The master craftsman welcomes us. A Carved Door
We are given a rundown of the history of the business … A Master Carver and his Table Top
… and shown some of the finished products. In the Showroom
The work is detailed and intricate. Choosing a Piece Chiselling a Design
The time-consuming work on that unfinished door continues. Chiselling Detail Himalayan Buzzard – Buteo Refectus
Thanks to distance and low light, this is not a great shot; I include it because I am always impressed by how much wildlife there is everywhere in India. The Woodcarver’s Mother
As is the practice across much of India, this family lives in a multi-generational household. The Matriarch
In a living room completely panelled in walnut veneer, she posed for us near a window. Man and Woman in a Boat
Back on the waterways, life goes on. Young Man Watching
From the walkways across the water, people watch us pass. Vegetable Sellers
The waterways are a hive of activity. Trading Vegetables Women on the Water
As evening falls, the light on waterways lowers, but activity continues. A Quiet Corner Another Paddy Bird
Usually solitary, Indian pond herons (Ardeola Grayii) are very common across the subcontinent. Evening on Dal Lake
When we arrive back at our luxurious cedar houseboats, the sun is setting over the lake, and the world is quiet. I wandered back to my room, still dreamy from the light on the waterways – but I could smell food, and I heard the call to dinner.
Truly, a wonderful first day on the incomparable Dal Lake of Kashmir.
Until next time,
Keep Smiling!
Pictures: 10September2023
Posted in India,TravelTags: architecture,arts and crafts,blog,boats,Dal Lake,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,India,Kashmir,landscape,on the water,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,waterways
Wangi Falls
One of the most popular attractions in Litchfield National Park in Australia’s Northern Territory, these magnificent falls are just one of several double-plunge waterfalls in the area. Litchfield National Park is an ancient landscape shaped by water. It features numerous stunning waterfalls that cascade from the sandstone plateau of the Tabletop Range.
So says the official Northern Territory (NT) Fact Sheet.
I hadn’t been in Australia’s expansive – and sparsely populated – central-northern regions for a long time (see: Colours in the Heart of Australia), and it had been even longer since I’d been to the country’s “Top End”. So, I was looking forward to a short stay in Darwin, the region’s capital and main population centre.
But, as much as I enjoyed walking around the city in “wet season”, I made sure to get out into one of the magnificent National Parks nearby. With only a short amount of time available to me, a day-trip to Litchfield – where I’d never been – seemed like the best option.
The park is about 120 km (75 mi) south-west of Darwin, and the bonus is that the roads there are mostly paved. Myself, and two younger visitors from Germany, were picked up from our hotel early, and set off with a driver/guide in a small van.
No thinking required!
Our guide told us that the massive property was willed back to the Northern Territory government as a National Park by the owner, who didn’t want the pristine beauty of the area exploited by his offspring. I can’t corroborate that, but it was originally part of several pastoral leases in the region, and became a park in 1986. It was named for a Territory pioneer: pastoralist, gold miner, and explorer, Frederick Henry Litchfield.
However the Park happened, we can be very thankful that it was formed! It truly is a stunning area – and so accessible to Darwin.
Sunrise from my Room
Darwin has grown since I was last here 20 years ago, but the wet season skies are still dramatic and beautiful. Scenes from the Bus : Water Buffalo (Bubalus Bubalis)
Our guide (who also farms) called these Indonesian water buffalo; their horns are shorter than those I’m used to seeing across Southeast Asia. Water buffalo were originally imported into the NT in the 19th century as working animals and for their meat. Today, they are often farmed for live export. Cathedral Termite Mound
We made a couple of stops at convenience stores to allow us to buy our lunches; our first tourist stop was at a termite mound. Home to a colony of cathedral termites (Nasutitermes triodiae), this feat of architectural engineering – built from mud, plant parts, and termite saliva and feces – is over 50 years old. St Andrews Cross Spider – Argiope Spp
The ripples on the termite mound are host to a few rather decorative spiders. Florence Falls
Breathtakingly beautiful, the segmented falls on Florence Creek tumble down 64 metres (210 ft) from the sandstone Tabletop Plateau into a popular plunge-pool below. On the Metal Walkway
Our guide took us along the Shady Creek Walk, which comprises a metal walkway and a lot of stairs. Blue Spiderwort – Commelina Tuberosa
There were plenty of wildflowers to admire … Under the Canopy
… as we worked our way through the woods … Florence Creek
… and along the creek. Grey-Headed Flying Foxes – Pteropus Poliocephalus
High in the palms overhead, nocturnal flying foxes roost: chattering and jostling continuously. Around the Falls
The falls themselves – when we come to them – are beautiful. Women in the Falls
My travel companions take full advantage of the pleasantly warm waters in the plunge pools. Wet Walls
All around us, the sandstone walls rise steeply … Fern on the Rock Face
… and plants cling to any crevices they find. Rocks in the Creek
Running away from the rock pools, the creek tumbles over boulders … Green Reflected
… and collects in small reflective pools. Almost Abstract : Clear Waters in the Woods Nature’s Artworks : Palm Tree Camouflage
I was told this is a Florence Falls palm (Hydriastele wendlandiana). Into the Grass
The change from Monsoon Forest into Savanna Woodland along our walk away from the falls is as dramatic as it is surprising. A Quiet Corner
And then – back into the woods! Buley Rockhole – Upper Pools
A short drive away, we stop at the Buley Rockholes: beautifully clear, interconnected pools suitable for a plunge. Over the Rocks
Being spring-fed, the Buley Rockhole waters are much cooler than those at the bathing spots under Florence Falls. Buley Rockhole
A short while later as we leave the pools, we could see the dark clouds rolling in – carrying plenty of tropical rain. Elephant Creeper – Argyreia Nervosa Palms and Grasses
Our last stop within the park allows us a short walk along Wangi Creek … Wangi Falls
… to another beautiful segmented waterfall. Crocodile Trap
Wangi Falls is a popular recreation spot, but crocodiles are a very real risk factor, and the area is closed to swimmers after high rains. Golden Orb Web Spider – Nephila Philipes
I love these beautiful, big, spiders. Blue-Winged Kookaburra – Dacelo Leachii
I’m used to seeing laughing kookaburras (Dacelo novaeguineae), but watching a pair of these large kingfishers – native to northern Australia and southern New Guinea – chattering in the trees overhead, was a real treat. Common Crow Butterfly – Euploea Core
It is always a joy for me to capture any wildlife – even these more common types!
Aside from a small freshwater crocodile in a tank at the pub we stopped at on our way out of the park, we didn’t see any crocs – which is fine with me! Dangerous – often fatal attacks – are not uncommon in the north of Australia.
Overall, it was a great day out, and I’d certainly put Litchfield National Park on a list of ‘must sees’ in Australia’s Top End.
Photos: 18March2025
Bricks and Stones
Thirteen months after the devastating earthquake on September 8, 2023, the mud-brick houses of Aït Aïssa in the Azzaden Valley, Morocco, still show the scars. Back in September of 2023, Morocco was rocked by an earthquake – with devastating consequences.
More than 2,900 people were killed and a further 5,500 injured (see: The Centre for Disaster Recovery). Over two million dwellings were damaged – displacing at least 500,000 people.
Although the effects of the 6.8-magnitude quake were felt in the popular tourist destination of Marrakesh, it was nearer the epicentre – 71km (44 miles) to the southwest in Al Haouz Province – where the majority of deaths and injuries occurred. This is a predominantly rural and mountainous area, with tiny villages of mud-brick houses – many of them only accessible by donkey or motor bike.
What shocks me most is how little news of this disastrous event crossed my feeds and into my awareness – even though I had plans to travel to that very region.
Just over a year later, I was staying in the Azzaden Valley, less 50 km (30 mi) from the epicentre of the quake. I had undertaken the rugged 12 kilometer- (7 mile-) trek into the tiny village of Aït Aïssa from Imlil the day before (see: Over the Tedli Saddle), and could fully appreciate how difficult rescue and restoration efforts must have been. (Later in my travels, I was in nearby Ouirgane, where a whole community was still living in tents.)
The Azzaden Trekking Lodge in Aït Aïssa where I was staying calls itself luxury accommodation; it is not as luxurious as the Kasbah Tamadot, the boutique 4.5-star hotel built by Richard Branson in nearby Asni, mind you, but it had everything I needed – including a spa bath in my ensuite! – and certainly was much more comfortable than the damaged houses all around.
After the bone-jarring, muscle-testing hike the day before, I was looking forward to a relatively easy day walking around the Azzaden Valley. Of course, nothing in the High Atlas is easy! The six-and-a-bit kilometre (3.8 mi) circuit was up and down and over and up again – following rough water channels, narrow laneways between broken buildings, and donkey paths into the unknown.
Join me for a walk:
Setting Out
My local trekking guide heads off through Aït Aïssa, past a newly rebuilt building of stone and brick – hopefully reinforced this time! Morning in the Ruins
The morning sun catches the edges of earthquake-damaged buildings. Metal Door
The sun can’t reach all the way into the narrow lanes between the multi-story buildings. Herding his Sheep
Like the many other tiny villages around the Azzaden Valley, Aït Aïssa clings to the side of the mountain. The Azzaden Valley
The valley is green and fertile in the lower reaches, terraced with orchards and market gardens. Apple Crates
This part of the valley is home to apple orchards, … Apples
… and autumn is harvest season. Guide on the “Path”
Some of the “walking paths” follow rough watercourses; without my guide, I’d never have found the way! Into the Sunshine
The water travels downhill; our path flanks the mountainside. I’m still tired from the day before, and my guide has to stop and wait for me at regular intervals. Common Leadwort – Plumbago Europaea Village on the Other Side
Small villages are dotted all around the valley. Apples in the Atlas
Apples are everywhere! My guide got me one from a tree: it was sweet, crisp, and delicious. Red and Green
The steep mountain trail continues winding and dropping, and we end up overlooking an apple sorting and packing operation. Apple Packhouse
The yard is busy with activity, … Worker at the Packhouse
… but the local Berber men working there are happy to stop and have their pictures made. Berber Man at the Packhouse Mosque in the Middle
Every small village is centred around its mosque, with its distinctive square minaret tower. Metal Door and Rubble
Spots of colour contrast with the piles of rubble waiting to be rebuilt. Woman on the Stairs
People in these mountains get their stair-stepping in just going about their daily lives. Woman at Home
Where sections of the buildings have fallen away, you can see how the old adobe structures were reinforced only with straw. Half-Housing
The rebuilding process is slow – but at least it includes steel reinforcement. Girls Snacking
Local girls share a giggle and a snack – possibly walnuts, which also grow in the valley. Girls on their Phone
Some things are the same all over the world. Back in my lodge, two young girls attached to the household were watching videos on their phone … View from the Azzaden Trekking Lodge
… while outside, the afternoon sun shines over the valley. Roads are being build, and houses are being repaired, but it’s a slow recovery in this remote valley of relatively low economic wealth.
I couldn’t help but feel extremely fortunate as I luxuriated in my spa-bath, soaking away some of the aches and pains in preparation for the next day’s early start: around the other side of the mountain and back to Imlil in the neighbouring Ait Mizane Valley.
 Until next time,
Stay Safe!
Pictures: 11October2024
Posted in Africa,Morocco,TravelTags: architecture,blog,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,High Atlas,landscape,Morocco,mountains,nature,people,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
Inside the Cloisters
Started in the 11th century, the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors was recognised as a French National Monument in 1862. In 1998, it was heritage-listed by UNESCO as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France. The charming medieval town of Cahors in the Occitan Region of Southern France was full of delightful surprises.
The centrepiece of the town is the beautiful St. Étienne Cathedral, a refuge on the famous Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage, and – along with the Valentré Bridge (see: A Pilgrim Pathway and a Medieval Bridge) – a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Catholicism is the predominant religion in France, with between 47% and 88% of the population estimated to be Catholic – practicing or lapsed. The French Catholic Church was established in the 2nd century, and because of its continuous communion with the bishop of Rome, it was sometimes called the fille aînée de l’Église – the eldest daughter of the church. Clovis I was the first Frankish king to be baptized a Christian in 496 (or 508 – depending on who you read!) and the kings after him were all called the “eldest sons of the Church”.
While the broader relationship between church and state has often been less than smooth, for many centuries the parish church has been the center of village life in France. The Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors truly was central to Cahors; it is now in the middle of the medieval quarter, and I passed it repeatedly on my various walks.
Architecturally, Cahors Cathedral is considered a fine example of the transition between the late Romanesque and Gothic traditions. It was consecrated in 1135, having been built on the site of an earlier 7th century church. I’ve forgotten much of what I learned about religious architecture back in my art-history classes at school, and was just happy to wander around, escaping the autumn rain and admiring the graceful lines. On my second visit, I was lucky enough to be treated to an organ recital!
Come for a visit:
Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors
The cathedral is a commanding presence in the narrow streets of the old historic quarter. Madonna
The statuary decorating the building is quite beautiful. The Apse of Cahors Cathedral from the Outside In the Cloisters
The cloister was rebuilt towards the end of the 15th century, reflecting the ornate Gothic style of the day. Looking Out
The symmetrical garden in cloistre gives a feeling of calm. Rain in the Cloisters
The light was completely different the next day when I returned to escape the rain. Bell Tower Rising
The cathedral has a sturdy, fortified appearance. When it was build, the local bishops were also feudal lords, and probably sought some measure of protection. Rain Falling A Dome and the Tower
The two Byzantine-style blue-slate covered domes in the cathedral are 32 meters (105 feet) high. From the medieval period, only those of the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople stand taller. (iPhone15Pro) Reflections in the Coloured Windows Organ
The Cahors organ was built between 1712-1714 and rebuilt in 1863. From inside the nave, the sound was glorious! Traditional Stained Glass
The classic stained glass windows are quite stunning: this one shows Saint Lawrence, Christ, the Virgin Mary, and Saint Génulphus. Modern Stained Glass : The Parables of St Mark’s Gospel
Contemporary windows were commissioned by the city, and installed in 2013 by artist Gérard Collin-Thiébaut and the master glazier Pierre-Alain Parot. Each window is composed from layers of pictures: old and newer ones, symbolising how art and faith are passed down and reinterpreted through the generations. The central panel here depicts the parable of the sower and the calming of the tempest. Madonna and Child
In the Chapel of the Virgin, a colourful statue stands over the tomb of Alain de Solminihac, Bishop of Cahors from 1636 until his death in 1659. L’Ange du Lazaret in the Rain
Back outside in the rain, a more modern monumental bronze sculpture – the Angel of Lazaret by Marc Petit – is a sorrowful guardian of those people with infectious diseases who are sequestered away from the mainstream. Cathedral Wall Textures
The porch of the north door of the cathedral is decorated with stone motifs. Flowers in the Stone Night Lights
After dark, the cathedral is lit up … Light Show
… with a repeated sequence of colourful lights. Just another delightful surprise!
I couldn’t wait to explore more of this lovely town.
Until then,
Bon Voyage!
Pictures: 25-26September2024
Posted in Architecture,France,TravelTags: architecture,blog,Cahors,cathedral,Catholic,France,religion,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
« Older posts
Newer posts »
|
.jpg)
