.jpg) Lines and Curves
The boardwalk along the edge of Lake Curalo is a stone’s-throw from my front door, and is the main reason we bought our “Sea Change” house where we did. (08May2021) It is easy to take one’s own backyard a bit for granted!
It is winter in Australia at the moment – a time when I’m often in the Northern Hemisphere looking for better weather. Truth be told, though, winter in my corner of the world – in Eden on the temperate Far-South Coast of New South Wales – is neither that long nor that harsh. When I’m not travelling, I spend a lot of time on my balcony, just letting the sound of the birds wash over me, feeling the air, and watching the light on the water.
I do make a point of going for a short walk most days: tumbling out of my front door, onto the estuary, and turning right along the boardwalk (see: A Little Slice of Paradise), or left towards the pathway.
While house-cleaning old photo-files, I’ve found some “backyard” pictures: photos from a late-autumn and early-winter past, when – thanks to ongoing Covid19 lockdowns – overseas travel was not possible.
When I’m at home, my cameras tend to sit in their case, waiting for the next trip. But, I’ve learned to love my iPhones. As they say: the best camera is the one you have with you! So, these are all iPhone shots. For many years, I’ve used Instagram as a form of sketch pad: trying to “see” and post something at least daily: always in the square format that used to be the requirement on that platform.
Re-editing photos into landscape format when I originally envisaged them as squares can be a challenge, but I think these work well enough to share with you.
Join me for some quiet cooler-weather scenes in my immediate neighbourhood.
.jpg) The Garden Bench
If you want to travel, it pays to keep the yard as low-maintenance as possible! Native plants attract birds and bees, and mostly look after themselves. (08May2021) .jpg) Lake Curalo Reflections
Technically an ICOLL – an Intermittently Closed and Open Lake or Lagoon – Lake Curalo is a brackish body of estuarine water that is tidal, and sometimes completely open to the Pacific Ocean. Surrounded by tea trees (melaleucas) and tall gum trees including woollybutts (Eucalyptus longifolia), it is home to a large population of waterbirds. (08May2021)  Picnic Bench
Every so often, the local council makes some improvements to the the walkway along the lake. There are now a few spots to stop and take in the surrounds. (09May2021) Back on the Boardwalk
Every day, the light is different. (10May2021) Low Tide on the Estuary
Spoonbills and ibises are regular visitors to the mudflats at low tide. (18May2021) Waterbirds on the Estuary
Small numbers of egrets and herons make their homes on the lake, as do large numbers of black swans and Australian pelicans. Gulls and terns stop by regularly. (18May2021) Colourful Grasses
(22May2021) Swans on the Estuary
Although a large number of black swans (Cygnus atratus) live here, they often hide in the tributaries. Only once have I seen them with their cygnets. (22May2021) Full Moon Over Twofold Bay
Eden is a very small place: it is only a ten minute drive to the lookout on the hill on the other side of town. (25May2021) Full Moon Over the Estuary
Aside from the powerlines in my way, I have a good view of the moonrise from my balcony. (26May2021) Eastern Grey Kangaroos – Macropus Giganteus
Although there are many resident ‘roos in Eden, these are on the Panboola Wetlands in the next town over – a twenty minute drive away. (27May2021) Madagascar Fireweed – Senecio Madagascariensis
Although the flowers are pretty, this invasive plant is toxic to livestock. I can’t go for a walk without pulling it out if I see it! (30May2021) A Curve in the Path
We get a fair bit of rain in autumn and winter – but few frosts – so things stay nice and green. (30May2021) The Impossible Brightness of Morning
The low-angled sun bounces off the water. (31May2021) Red Leaves
The leaves on my plum trees put on a colourful display in winter … Plum Leaves
… which is lucky really – as the trees never produce any plums! (03June2021) Fallen Trees
Tea-trees (melaleuca) have a short life-span, and regularly get blown over by strong winds. Palestine Creek is one of several tributaries into Lake Curalo. (06June2021) Even in the Rain!
(09June2021) A Curve at Low Tide
The mouth of the estuary is opened during times of very heavy rains to prevent flooding. (09June2021) A Bench on the Lake
(10June2021) Tugboat
Eden is very much a working harbour, with the two resident tug boats kept busy. (14June2021) Australian White Ibis – Threskiornis Molucca
I never know which birds will be around when I go out! (29June2021) In some ways, I take it for granted.
On the other hand, I give thanks every day as I feel the sun (or rain!) on my face, listen to the birds around me, and watch the ever-changing light on the water.
Who needs any more than that?
Photos (iPhone12Pro) : May-June2021.
Posted in Australia,Landscapes,TravelTags: Australia,birds,blog,landscape,nature,Photo Blog,travel,Ursula Wall,walk,waterbirds,waterscape,waterways
Mosque of Hassan II – Casablanca
The second largest functioning mosque in Africa sits on a 9-hectare (22-acre) complex overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Indoors and out, it can house 105,000 worshippers. Our small group was getting a limited early-morning guided-tour between prayers. It was still cool and dim when we loaded our suitcases onto a small bus: the pre-dawn light was too low for me to get much of an impression of Casablanca, that fabled North African city that lends its name to gin-joints, stories, and popular imagination.
I had arrived in the city early-evening the day before, coming off a train from Marrakech. Before that, I’d spent a few days walking in Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains (see: Over the Tizi Oudid). I barely had time for a quick shower before meeting the small group with whom I was going to be touring the rest of the country (Premium Morocco in Depth). The light was already falling when we set off for a traditional dinner in a charming restaurant nestled into an old fort.
Our one stop in Casablanca the next morning – once our bags were packed and stowed onto the bus for the trip to Meknes by way of Rabat – was at the massive Mosque of Hassan II. Built under the guidance of King Hassan II (r. 1961-1999), this huge complex – completed in 1993 – sits partly on land and partly over the sea.
I’ve visited a number of mosques over the years – particularly in India, Oman, and Türkiye – but in Morocco, non-Muslims are generally excluded. The Hassan II Mosque is the exception, allowing visitors outside of prayer times. We met with our guide on the expansive plaza around 8am, and set off to learn about the history and the architecture of this massive structure.
Religious Islamic art is typically characterized by the absence of figures, and by the extensive use of decorative calligraphy and abstract geometric and floral patterns. It was the strong geometrics: the lines, the curves, and the repeated patterns, that stood out for me in this particular mosque.
Come have a look.
The Courtyard
It’s a long walk from the street (Bd Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah) and across the courtyard in the 9-hectare (22-acre) complex to the mosque itself. Arches Everywhere
Repeated arches balance the 210-metre (690-foot) tall minaret, which was the tallest in the world when it was completed in 1993. Minaret on the Mosque
Moroccan minarets are historically square. This one is intricately decorated with a pattern in chrome and green and blue tiles – the colours of which are said to represent the surrounding sea and God above. Decorated Ceiling
Our first indoor stop was in the small museum, where there are many examples of the materials and techniques used by the 10,000 artists and craftsmen who participated in building and beautifying of the mosque. Ridged ceilings like this help baffle noise. Decorated Cornice
This type of woodwork – dating to the 9th century and typically made of cedar – involves carefully chiselled carving and detailed paintwork. Decorated Walls
Repeated patterns are everywhere. Note the decorative holes above head level which aid air circulation. More Arches Main Hall
The size of the main prayer hall defies comprehension: it has the capacity to accommodate 25,000 devotees. The floor is heated, and the massive roof high overhead is retractable, allowing for daytime sunlight and stars on a clear night. Speakers are hidden in the decorations on some of the columns. Carved Details Our Guide
We are given a brief introduction to the history of Islam in Morocco. (iPhone15Pro) Scalloped Arches
With the exception of some Italian white granite columns and the 56 glass chandeliers from Murano, Italy, all of the materials used in the construction of the mosque were sourced locally. Door Detail : Light Radiating from the Sun Like a Mace
Ornate candelabras – probably of oxidized copper or brass – hang all around. Lines and Curves and Pillars
The Wudu area, where the faithful perform their pre-prayer ablutions, is a symphony of curves. The hall is in the basement, and is accessed from outside the mosque. It houses a total of 600 taps scattered around the 45 marble fountains: which represent lotus flowers – but make me think of mushrooms. Intricate Sconce Cogs in the Works
Featuring traditional Moroccan motifs, many of the electrically-operated doors are made of titanium to withstand oceanic forces. Portrait of a Guide Outside the Entrance Doors The City and the Sea Beyond
The sky has lightened, and we can now see the beach and the city beyond. In the Courtyard – More Patterned Arches Fountain
Beautiful Arabesque mosaics decorate the 41 fountains around the courtyard. The Minaret against a Blue Sky
After an almost two-hour visit, we take one last look at the minaret and leave the Hassan II Mosque behind. (iPhone15Pro) 
Fascinating place.
I’ll have to return one day to get a sense of the city itself …
“Here’s looking at you, kid!”
Pictures: 14October2024
Posted in Africa,Architecture,Morocco,TravelTags: architecture,blog,Casablanca,environmental portrait,islam,islamic,Morocco,mosque,Photo Blog,Religious Practice,travel,Travel Blog,worship
Worth the Wait!
Everywhere you look in Fira, on Santorini, iconic white-walled and blue-domed Greek Orthodox churches stand against the blue skies and waters of the South Aegean Sea. I had waited a lifetime for this! It is just breathtakingly beautiful!
I couldn’t believe I had finally made it – made it to Santorini, the southernmost island in the Cyclades.
Santorini is the largest part of a circular archipelago surrounding the Santorini caldera in the South Aegean Sea, southeast of mainland Greece. This was the site of the Minoan eruption about 3,600 years ago, one of the largest volcanic explosions in recorded history. The eruption left a large water-filled caldera surrounded by volcanic-ash deposits hundreds of metres deep.
Some say this is the site of the lost civilisation of Atlantis.
Known for its beauty, Santorini’s primary industry is tourism, particularly in the summer months. It is frequently ranked the world’s top island by tourism magazines and travel sites. An estimated 2 million people visit every year.
I was lucky: I was visiting during the autumn shoulder season, and Covid19 restrictions had not long since ended, so the island was markedly less crowded than it can be.
I was on a small group tour: we had been in Naxos for a few days (see: Life in a Marble Village) and travelled the short distance from Chora, Naxos, to Santorini by fast ferry in the morning. Our accommodation on the island was in Firá.
Santorini’s official and historic name is Thira; this is where the capital town of Fira gets its name. It is only a 20-minute drive from the ferry terminal, but most of that is zig-zagging up the pumice cliffs that make up the 400 metres (1,312 feet) high caldera on the island’s western edge.
Once we dropped our bags, we set off on foot: wandering through the narrow white-walled streets packed with cafés, boutique hotels, and old domed Orthodox churches.
Join me:
Waiting for the Next Island
Our bags are packed, and we hurry up to wait in the Chora ferry port for our fast-ferry to Santorini. (iPhone12Pro) Scenes from a Bus : Passengers Piling onto a Santorini Ferry
As our bus winds its way up the steep side of the broken caldera, I get views back over the harbour. (iPhone12Pro) Mama Thira Tavern
Tourism is Santorini’s primary industry – but even tourist-focussed buildings conform to the traditional Cyclades charm. Dome on a Hill
There are white walls and blue domes everywhere I look. The Caldera
Fira is poised on the top of the steep wall of the caldera. Still Life Found : Boat on the Patio
Santorini is a relatively small island, with an area of approximately 73 square km (28 sq mi); the sea is central to life here. You Could Be Nowhere Else!
The three bells of the Church of the Ascension of the Blessed Virgin Mary stand against the cloudless autumn sky. (iPhone12Pro) Churches on the Hilltop
Can you count the churches in this picture? Arches and Stairs Life in the Caldera
The island has a hot semi-arid climate; the natural vegetation is be rugged! Keys to the Island? Clinging to the Cliff
The buildings looks precarious, and during a recent earthquake swarm in early February 2025, much of the population was evacuated from the island as a precautionary measure. Many of the buildings extend down into the pumice – creating well-insulated spaces that are cool in summer and warm in winter. Metropolitan Cathedral Church of Candlemas of The Lord
Streets and stairs wind and loop – leading to unexpected views. Church of St. John the Baptist
Unlike most of the other churches we see, which are Greek Orthodox, this one is Catholic. Neither I nor Google-translate can read the writing on the wall. Another Bell Tower The Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist
With every step, we get different views of beautiful old buildings. In the Narrow Laneways
The streets of Fira are lined with boutiques and cafes. Fresh Penne and Local Wine
Fabulous food is around every corner – and comes with a view. Buildings on the Ridge A White Dome
Unlike many Greek Orthodox churches, the Church of Agios Minas – built between 1537 and 1650 – features an impressive white dome that contrasts with the beautiful blue Aegean Sea it overlooks. View from our Balcony
Our accommodation was well-placed, with great views. Afternoon Sun
The sun drops over the still-busy waters of the Aegean Sea as my first day in Santorini draws to a close. Just magic!
I went sleep dreaming of blue domes and blue waters – and looking forward to another day on this beautiful island.
Until then …
Happy Wandering!
Pictures: 24September2022
Bhima pays his Respects
In a small theatre in Fort Kochi, Bhima – a hero and one of the most prominent characters in the Hindu epic Mahabharata – appears in the elaborate costume and makeup integral to a South Indian Kathakali dance performance. India is home to a number of classical dance and drama forms: usually enacting stories from Hindu mythology, and each conforming to an ancient Sanskrit treatise on the performing arts. Each has its own distinctive regional roots.
In Kerala, Kathakali takes its place as a nationally recognised art form, known for its elaborate makeup, stylised movements, heavy costumes, and portrayal of mythological stories.
I had been travelling across South India with a small group on a tour that ended in Kerala. We had spent our last day together exploring Fort Kochi (see: A Morning in Historic Fort Kochi). I had some extra time in that delightful coastal city before taking myself up into the Hill Stations in Kerala’s interior.
On our first evening in Fort Kochi, we had attended a Kathakali performance (see: An Introduction to Kathakali). I was so entranced by it, I booked myself a second performance at the Great K V Kathakali Center. Hearing that the program was different each evening was a bonus.
To people familiar with the Mahabharatha, an epic Sanskrit poem about the battles of good and evil, the excerpt performed on stage might make sense. Even though I had a typed outline of the story, I had difficulty following some of the ‘action’.
Not that it matters! Kathakali is a visual treat – and an aural assault.
Kalyanasougandhikam is a story about Bhima (Bheema) who, at the request of his wife Panchali (sometimes called Draupadi) goes into the forest in search of the intoxicatingly fragrant Sougandhika flower – an auspicious water lily. While there, he inadvertently disturbs Hanuman, who happens to be his half brother, but is disguised as an old monkey so that Bhima doesn’t recognise him.
There is a battle, which Bhima fails to win. Surprised, he demands to know how this monkey could have withstood him. Hanuman reveals himself, they make peace with each other, and life goes on …
Join me in the heat and dark for the complex preparation, a short explanation, and a very noisy short story.
Face Painting on Stage
One of the joys of attending the Kerala Kathakali Centre is watching the men’s lengthy and careful preparation on stage. Preparation
The men’s transformations into the well-known characters takes patience and precision. Applying the Beard
The makeup and costumes all follow a prescribed code which helps the audience easily identify the archetypal characters: the gods, goddesses, demons, saints, animals, and other characters that make up each story. Building the Beard
The white beard (Vella Thadi) is reserved for characters who embody goodness, divinity, and refinement. Accoutrements Painting Orange
Watching the layers build up, I have no idea how these faces are going to turn out! Three-Dimensional White
This white is probably rice powder paste, and certainly makes the other colours pop. Green : Pachcha
The performers alternate between being helped and painting themselves. Details Shiva Burns
The whole performance space has a ritualistic feel. A candle in a dancing Shiva frame is garlanded in marigolds – which are thought to bring divine blessings, prosperity, and protection. How the Colours are Made
Our narrator/host explains how the traditional makeup is made, using powdered stones to make the yellow, green, and red; lime and rice flour for the white; and gingelly oil to make the black. On a Maddalam Drum
A Kathakali performances is accompanied by music, which includes drums, … Musician
… cymbals, a squeeze box, and voice. To my untrained ear, it is discordant and loud. Demonstrating Eye Movements
Traditionally, men have performed all the roles in Kathakali stories. The performer playing Bhima’s wife Panchali demonstrates the extraordinary eye rolls that convey particular meanings. Demonstrating Facial Expressions
Facial movements, body postures, and hand mudras also convey meaning. Panchali’s yellow face paint signifies she is a noble, virtuous, and feminine character. And the Story Begins …
Panchali finds a Sougandhika flower on the breeze, and persuades her husband Bhima to go into the forest to find more. Bhima and Panchali
It is a lengthy, but affectionate, discussion. Notice the metal tips on the fingers of his left hand, intended to make hand gestures more visible. Bhima
In terms of costume and makeup, I cannot distinguish Bhima from Arjunan the archer, whom I saw in the last performance (see: An Introduction to Kathakali). A Loving Couple
Bhima and Panchali are delightfully affectionate with each other. Hanuman in the Forest
Meanwhile, Hanuman is in the forest, preparing to meditate. Hanuman is Angry
Angry at being disturbed, Hanuman disguises himself as an old monkey, and takes Bhima on. Bhima in Collapse
Upon learning Hanuman’s identity, Bhima collapses. Hanuman and Bhima
The half-brothers come to agreement … The Old Monkey
… and Hanuman sends Bhima on his way. And so, the show winds up – the short duration belying the hours of nightly preparation, and the years of practice that go into learning the artform in the first place.
The relative cool and quiet of the the Fort Kochi street outside is a welcome relief from the heat and noise in the small theatre.
For, as much as I love it, I’m glad when it’s over!
Photos: 01February2023
Posted in Dance,India,TravelTags: culture,dance,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,India,Kathakali,Kerala,people,performance,performers,portrait,portraits,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Taaw Tldáaw – Tow Hill
The story of the land here on Haida Gwaii, an archipelago off Canada’s west coast, is in the rock formations. The local story of Taaw Tldáaw tells of bitterness and rivalry between two (non-human) brothers. Modern geologists talk about an isolated volcanic plug that solidified about two million years ago. I don’t really understand either story – but I marvel at the landscape. There is magic in the rocks and trees of Haida Gwaii in Canada’s British Columbia (BC).
The people of the Haida Nation have lived here for at least 13,000 years – although ninety percent of the population died in the 1800s from smallpox, thanks to the first European contact in 1774. The islands were important during the maritime fur trade era of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, and came under British colonial rule in 1851. They were part of Canada when I went to school (many years later!), and were still known by their British name: the Queen Charlotte Islands.
Today, about half the population of 4500 people has Haida heritage. Indigenous place names have been restored, and the traditional stories about the landscape are being recovered and signposted.
Haida Gwaii had an almost mythical quality in my imagination, and I had been wanting to visit for a long time. Once I finally got there – three years ago now – I explored as much of the region as I could with a map and a rental car.
After a long days of travel and limbo, I spent my first full day on Graham Island – the largest island in the Haida Gwaii group – close to my base in the village of Daajing Giids (formerly known as Queen Charlotte). I took a short walk around Spirit Lake (see: Welcome to Haida Gwaii) to get a feel for the place.
On the second day, I drove north across the island to the village of Masset for lunch, and then into Naikoon Provincial Park for a short – but steep – walk up Taaw Tldáaw – Tow Hill.
Join me.
To the Water
Just 15 minutes out of my base at Daajing Giids, I stopped at the Balance Rock car park. The beach is a short walk through the woods. Rocky Beach
In the last ice age, glaciers sculpted this landscape. Boulders Left Behind
Here, along the coast, those glaciers left trails of boulders behind when they retreated. Balance Rock
This famous boulder has stood here since then, resisting even the most powerful Haida Gwaii storms, with their thundering waves and high winds. A Natural Wonder
The Balance Rock’s centre of gravity is exactly over the point of contact with the underlying rock, effectively gluing it to its base and making it immoveable. Morris White Pole in the Woods
Although they are often all referred to as ‘totem poles’, these ubiquitous examples of Haida art and skill are more often clan or memorial poles. The stylised creatures carved and painted on the red cedar poles tell stories of a person, a clan, or a particular event. This memorial pole, located in Old Massett, was carved and raised in 1999 by well-known Indigenous artist Christian White in honour of his father. Old Massett Street Sign Sarah’s Haida Arts and Jewellery
The K’aadsnee Shark House pole stands in front of a store full of wonderful arts: carvings in argillite and wood, Indigenous weaving, and precious jewellery – all crafted by artists of Haida ancestry. The pole was carved by internationally acclaimed Haida artist Reg Davidson in 1986. Pole at St.John’s Anglican Church
Carved and raised in 1969 by Robert Davidson, a leading figure in the renaissance of Haida art and culture, this was the first contemporary pole in Old Massett. Driving Into The Woods
As I leave Massett behind and drive into Naikoon Provincial Park, I find myself on an unsealed road. At least it is well groomed! (iPhone12Pro) Tall Trees in Silhouette
The park is tidy, with two vehicle-accessible campgrounds and scattered picnic tables and outhouse toilets. (iPhone12Pro) Totems at the Hiellen Village Longhouses
Modern longhouses built in traditional style are available to those who want to camp in more comfort – for a fee payable to the Old Massett Village Council, who own and operate the site. Trees in the Forest
I set off on the path through the coastal temperate rainforest. Textures : Tree Bark and Moss Salal – Gaultheria Shallon Mouth of the Hiellen River
The first section of the walk to Tow Hill is along the Blowhole Trail, with views over the river. Accessible Pathway
The Blowhole Trail is a wheelchair accessible boardwalk running for just under a kilometre (0.6 mile). Oldgrowth Specklebelly Lichen – Pseudocyphellaria Rainierensis
Mosses and lichens thrive in the shady forest. The Shores of McIntyre Bay
The path comes out onto McIntyre Bay; the waters of Dixon Entrance beyond form the disputed boundary with Alaska, just 80 km (50 miles) away. Tow Hill – Taaw Tldáaw
The mythical Taaw, for whom this magnificent basalt plug is named, found the Hiellen River in his travels. He liked it here, and decided to stay. Rocky Tidepools
Meanwhile Taaw’s older brother sent a whale and large bird to chase after him. Taaw turned them both into stone, creating this blowhole. The sea was quiet and the tides were wrong while I was there: the whale was not spouting any water. Wooden Stairs
The whole circuit up Tow Hill and back to the car park is meant to be just 2.3 km (1.4 mi); somehow I clocked up a lot more than that! This section is obviously not wheelchair-friendly – and it got steeper around the next bend. AllTrails considers the track a moderately challenging route. Giant Stump Light in the Ferns
Several types of ferns grow here – it think this is a Dryopteris expansa, also known as the spreading wood fern. How Old?
I know you can measure the age of a tree by counting the rings, but how long would it take? Rose Point
From the top of Tow Hill, there are views northeast to Rose Spit, which is where the Haida people are said to originate. That is where the Raven, one of the most powerful creatures in Haida mythology, heard noises coming from a clamshell. He found many tiny little creatures hiding inside. Because he was feeling lonely, he persuaded the beings to emerge from under the shell and they became the first people. Yakan Point
The view southeast is to Yakan Point, just east of Agate Beach. Rain on the Rocks
After finishing my walk, I drove the short distance back to Agate Beach. The stones and pebbles here have been smoothed by many years of exposure to the west coast winds and powerful oceans. I didn’t find any agate, but I did like the colours – especially as the rain started. (iPhone12Pro) Same Rock – Different Light
Arriving back near the south end of Graham Island later in the day, I stopped again at Balance Rock and marvelled at how different it looked in the clear, early evening light. A bit of driving across the island; a bit of walking through the totems, the trees, and the stones;
… and, a whole lot of myths and stories.
Just another day on this beautiful archipelago.
Until next time …
Photos: 11June2022
Posted in Canada,Nature,TravelTags: Canada,Haida Gwaii,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
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