Low Tide on the Boardwalk Even in winter, the colours and patterns around the boardwalk along Lake Curalo in Eden, Australia, can be vibrant and arresting. (03August2021)
Remember that time when we were all confined to our houses?
As much as I chafed at have two new and pristine passports locked away, I recognised how very, very lucky I was. I was trapped – like everyone – but I had plenty of space and fresh air, and ever-changing views from the boardwalk just outside my house.
Having to wear a mask was a small price to pay for my allowable 30-minutes of solo “outdoor exercise” in the ever-changing light around Lake Curalo, the estuary (technically an ICOLL – an Intermittently Closed and Open Lake or Lagoon) just outside my front door in Eden, on the Far-South Coast of New South Wales, Australia.
I grew up in a world where winter meant the sparse and dry brown of dead grass and naked trees, and the blanket of white snow that obliterates everything except vague outlines. So, the rich colours of my Australian winter home continue to surprise me.
As I have said before (see: Wintery Colours in my Backyard (Part 1)), I tend not to pull out the cameras when I’m at home, so these are all iPhone (iPhone12Pro) shots that I’ve re-discovered while trying to tidy old files. I’ve originally taken them with Instagram and a square format in mind – and re-editing them into landscape proportions is sometimes a challenge.
But, the challenge seemed worth it, just to remind myself how beautiful this area is. And, what is everyday for me might be interesting and exotic to you.
So, please join me for some quiet wintery walks in my neighbourhood.
Lines and Curves Lake Curalo is tidal – especially when the sandbar is open to the Pacific Ocean. On a low tide like this one, there is marshy ground – rather than brackish water – around the support posts of the boardwalk. (10July2021)
Grasslands The landscape around the lake is remarkably varied. In the early Sunday morning haze, the tall gums that surround these grasslands fade into the background. (11July2021)
Daffodil in Bloom In this temperate climate, bulbs seem to get confused and don’t wait for spring to break into bloom. (13July2021)
Boats on Twofold Bay Snug Cove in Eden is a working harbour, with two tugboats and a small fleet of resident fishing vessels. (15July2021)
Rosemary Grevillea – Grevillea Rosmarinifolia Blooms on the native shrubs in my garden provide a splash of colour in the winter morning light. (03August2021)
Royal Spoonbills – Platalea Regia Every day, there is a different mix of waterbirds on the estuary. (03August2021)
Black Swan – Cygnus Atratus A large number of black swans are at home on the lake – but they change location regularly and often hide in the tributaries. So the number I see on a daily basis is variable. (03August2021)
Grasses around the Estuary Soft tufts of grass contrast with the red sorrel and saltbush, and the green tea trees (melaleuca) in the background. (03August2021)
Rusty Fence A caravan park and a public high school back onto the boardwalk on Lake Curalo. There is a fence, but the gate here is open, and the school students often take kayaks out via a small boat launch nearby. (03August2021)
On the Estuary (05August2021)
Winter Colours in the Grass Colour is everywhere, including in the tufts of grass at the shallow edges of the estuary. (07August2021)
The Green and Gold Australia’s national colours are inspired by wattle trees. The coastal wattle (acacia longifolia) generally blooms between August and October. (08August2021)
Morning Sparkle The low winter sun angles off the shallow waters … (13August2021)
The Impossible Brightness of Morning … causing a brilliant sparkle that pierces my eyes. (14August2021)
Morning Low Tide Spoonbills and ibises are regular visitors to the mudflats at low tide, and egrets, herons, black swans and Australian pelicans can usually be found. (17August2021)
Ripples and Poles We often experience gale-force winds, straight up from Antarctica; then there are days like this, when even the ripples are soft and quiet. (18August2021)
Reflections on Palestine Creek The waters in the tributaries into Lake Curalo are more sheltered than the lake itself – and reflect the surrounding tea trees (melaleuca) in their clear, glassy surfaces. (22August2021)
Greenery on Palestine Creek (22August2021)
Moonrise over the Estuary Winter often brings magnificent skies. (22August2021)
Swans on the Blue-Green Waters Every day the colours are different. The black swans (Cygnus atratus) look so elegant gliding across the lake, even with pond-grass hanging from their beaks. (24August2021)
Oystercatchers and Ducks I’m always pleased when the Australian pied oystercatchers (Haematopus longirostris) visit. The Australian wood ducks (Chenonetta jubata), on the other hand, are around all year, and can often be seen with large broods of fluffy ducklings. (24August2021 )
Wet Boardwalk Winter brings a lot of rain. It’s all about the right clothing! (24August2021)
Galahs on the Rails The older iPhones didn’t always do terribly well on details, but I like the splash of pink these galahs (Eolophus roseicapilla) bring to another wet day. (25August2021)
Cormorant on Watch We have three kinds of cormorants on the lake: little pied cormorants (Microcarbo melanoleucos), pied cormorants (Phalacrocorax varius), and great cormorants (Phalacrocorax carbo). I think this is the first. (28August2021)
These morning walks made the long, lonely isolation of repeated lockdowns much more bearable – and I count myself extremely lucky!
A Repurposed Windmill in the Sunrise It is worth getting up early to catch the sunrise over the caldera in Santorini, Greece. (iPhone12Pro)
I’m not exactly a morning person. But, when a walk along the top of Santorini’s caldera is on offer, I’ll make the effort!
The Santorini we see today is what remains of the island after a huge volcanic eruption about 3,600 years ago. That explosion destroyed the early settlements – and what remains of the caldera filled with water. The trail between Fira and Oia, the two most populous towns on the island, follows the north-western rim of this caldera through picturesque villages, past beautiful churches, and over some wild and rocky terrain.
Considered a must-do in Santorini, this 10+ km (6.2+ mi) hike is famous for its stunning views. Rated as moderate, it is definitely challenging in places, with multiple uphill and downhill sections (see: AllTrails). While parts of it are paved, other sections vary between gravel and loose volcanic scree. We were warned that there was no shade and no toilet facilities along the way.
We were staying near Fira (see: Iconic Blue and White). Our guide was determined to set out early to avoid the heat of the day. So, before the sun had even thought about rising, I was in the lobby with my walking stick, hat, and bottled water. I downed a quick coffee, had a last toilet stop, and claimed a bagged breakfast. Before first light, we set off from our hotel to find the path.
By the time the sun was lighting the sky, we had climbed high enough to revel in the morning views.
Pre-Dawn Blue Light We set off from our hotel very early. Santorini has only about 15,000 permanent residents, but with the annual influx of tourists, there is plenty of development. We can see the lights stretching out along the top of the caldera to Oia in the distance.
Church in the Morning Those famous blue-domed Orthodox churches are everywhere you look. This one is the Firostefani parish church of Agios Gerasimos(Saint Gerasimos), built in 1807.
Isolated Windmill By the time we reach Imerovigli – the next village – the sky is changing colour.
A Pink Pre-Dawn Sky
Sunrise over the Islands Watching the light change over the other islands in the Santorini group is just breathtaking. (iPhone12Pro)
Sunrise We stop to watch the sun rise over the horizon.
Sunrise through the Doorway How gorgeous are these hotels! And, what a magnificent location. (iPhone12Pro)
Cave House Santorini is dotted with unique cave houses carved into the volcanic rock. Many of them have been renovated and are used as rental accommodation.
Golden Morning The trail north out of Imerovigli continues to climb.
Shrine over the Caldera Roadside memorials, sometimes referred to as iconostasis, can be seen all over Greece. They might be a memorial to a dead person, but are often intended to provide holy protection against harm or accidents. They contain religious symbols (icons, images of a cross, coins, tokens, etc.) and act as places for religious practice – in effect, they are a reminder to pray or give thanks.
Church of Saint Mark Chapels and churches are everywhere. The little chapel dedicated to Agios Markos – Saint Mark – sits on a hill overlooking our path.
Church of Prophet Elias We have been on the trail an hour when we reach this pretty church with its tidy courtyard and some welcome shade – thanks to a few pines; a rarity on Santorini. The church, built in 1750, is dedicated to the Israelite prophet Elijah the Tishbite.
Walkers on the Path My walking companions head off on a cobbled downhill section; …
Down the Stairs and into my own Shadow … I just can’t resist hanging back to get a shadowed selfie in the sun. (iPhone12Pro)
Over the Caldera The views never stop!
Chapel of the Assumption of the Virgin We are close to rounding our our second hour, and are getting nearer to Oia.
Rocks along the Trail
Mud Brick Hut Accommodation on the island takes all forms!
Nature’s Artworks : Standing Stone Sculpture The last section of the walk takes us through some rough and remarkable terrain.
Chapel with a View Another chapel clings to the edge of the caldera – I never could find the name of this one.
Still Life Found : Mastrogiannis
Into Oia Two and a half hours after starting out, we were well into Oia – and ready for well-earned coffees.
It truly is a stunning walk!
I felt rather sorry for my travelling companions who had made their way to Oia by car instead of walking. They got coffee as well, but none of the experience and satisfaction.
Long Logs – Tall Trunks Slowly, the mighty evergreen trees rise to the sky. Slowly, the poles from the abandoned longhouses are reclaimed by the earth. Western red cedars (Thuja plicata) are central to the physical and spiritual lives of the Haida people.
(Click to start Cedar Sister by Terri-Lynn Williams-Davidson.)
In the Haida worldview, the cedar tree is known as “every woman’s sister”, providing for and sustaining our existence. This ancient sister lies at the root of Haida culture. She permeates every facet of Haida life, beginning in the cradle and continuing to the grave and finally, ending at the memorial potlatch and raising of memorial totem poles to commemorate and celebrate one’s life and contributions to the community.
– Terri-Lynn Williams-Davidson
Haida Gwaii, an archipelago in the northern Pacific waters of BC, Canada, is a stunningly beautiful place.
The people who have been part of these islands for at least 13,000 years are intimately connected with the land, the magnificent tall trees, the pristine coastal waters, and the animals who live here.
Nowhere is this interconnection more apparent than in the abandoned Haida villages of Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay,Grizzly Bear Village, (also known as Skedans) on Louise Island and T’aanuu Llnaagaay (Tanu), meaning Eel Grass Village, on on Tanu Island. The fallen poles that were once carved memorials or houseposts lay covered in moss, slowly decaying back to the earth, sustaining the next generation of tall, stately trees. There is a sacred stillness in this forest, with stones, worn totems, and moss-covered house-pits standing as a silent memorial to those who once lived here.
The Haida call decaying cedar stumps ‘nursery trees’; they give life to the next generation.
Haida Gwaii is the heartland of the Haida Nation. Linguistically distinct from other First Nations peoples, the Haida developed a complex class and rank system consisting of two main clans: the Raven and the Eagle. The fertility of their landscape and abundance in the waterways allowed them to foster their artistic skills, and their artwork is highly valued today.
Before the arrival of Europeans, there were more than 100 villages scattered around the archipelago. Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay and T’aanuu Llnaagaay each had between 25 to 40 extended families, with each housed in their own longhouse.
Europeans first sighted the archipelago in the late 1700s, and it became important to the maritime fur trade, and later, to gold prospectors. This lead to multiple waves of new illnesses: typhoid, measles, syphilis, and smallpox. It is estimated that ninety percent of Haida died as a result. The 1862 Pacific Northwest smallpox epidemic alone killed over seventy percent of the population.
With such a dramatic reduction in numbers, most villages – like Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay and T’aanuu Llnaagaay – were abandoned in the late 1800s. The few remaining people regrouped, leaving behind mortuary poles, mortuary houses, and the remains of the original longhouses.
These villages are now designated part of a National Historic Site of Canada and are administered by the Council of the Haida Nation and Parks Canada. They can only be visited with permission, and with Haida guides/escorts.
I wanted to take in as much of Haida Gwaii as I could (eg: Welcome to Haida Gwaii and Stories in the Rocks and Trees). But, I was travelling in shoulder season and Covid19 lockdowns had not long-since ended. Tour operations were not running a full calendar and I was only able to schedule one day-trip into the restricted and difficult-to-access regions of the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve during my stay.
That trip was a day to remember. Join me among the cedars and Sitka spruce.
Boats on the Daajing Giids Docks It was a short walk from my accommodation in Queen Charlotte to the docks to meet my Haida Style vessel.
Boatman and Tour Leader Local to Haida Gwaii, our boat operator James was a wealth of knowledge.
Young Haida Woman Xiila is also a Haida native – albeit living on the mainland so she can study nursing at University. She was glad to be home for the summer, where ‘the air smells SO much better!’
A Rocky Outcrop After almost two hours travelling south down the Hecate Strait in our 30-foot closed-cabin vessel, we slowed at a rocky island near Louisa Island.
A Sea Lion Colony You hear and smell them before you see them! These are Steller sea lions (Eumetopias jubatus), a large, near-threatened species of eared seals (Otariidae).
Steller Sea Lions – Eumetopias Jubatus These are the largest of the seals: bulls can weigh between 450–1,120 kg (990–2,470 lb). The paler females sharing his territory are much smaller and average around 263 kg (580 lb).
Black Guillemot – Cepphus Grylle
Eagle on the Wing Bald eagles (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) are everywhere: watching from their perches high on the cliffs, and circling over the waters for prey.
Bear on the Shore We slow down to watch a young American black bear (Ursus americanus) on the beach on Louisa Island – near where we are about to land.
Carving and the Watchhouse We disembark our little vessel on Louisa Island where Grizzly Bear Village – Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay – once thrived, and stop in to pay our respects to the Watchmen. Once upon a time, Watchmen were symbolic: tall-hatted figures at the top of village poles, keeping the inhabitants safe. Since the 1980s, however, Haida Watchmen are actual people, who share cultural stories and protect the old villages from looting and vandalism.
Gidinjaad – Cousin DiDi Eagle Woman and Watchman in K’uuna Village, Cousin DiDi, shares stories of her life and culture.
Rufous Hummingbird – Selasphorus Rufus I love watching these delightful and feisty creatures. They are often represented in Northwest Coast – including Haida – jewellery and art as symbols of love and beauty.
Nature’s Artworks : Driftwood and Stones
Telling Stories Xiila is the daughter of a current chief on Graham Island, and a descendant of the people who once lived in this village. She tells us historical stories, as well as myths her grandmother told to her.
Leaning Potlatch Pole The tall cedar poles are left where they fall. The one at the back has carved rings, thought to depict how many potlatches the chief had hosted. Potlatches were important gift-giving feasts involving the giving away or destroying of precious goods to demonstrate a leader’s wealth and power.
Fallen Potlatch Pole Potlatches took long preparation; they were usually held to celebrate special events. They included days of music, dancing, singing, storytelling, making speeches, and often joking and games. The supernatural was often invoked, and oral histories and regional alliances were reinforced. The practice was banned by the Canadian government between 1885 and 1951, but continued underground.
Totem Textures
Sitka Black-Tailed Deer – Odocoileus Hemionus Sitkensis While it is lovely to spot wildlife, these destructive creatures were introduced between 1878 and 1925, by European settlers. In the absence of predators, their population boomed, leading to overgrazing and destruction of culturally important vegetation. Efforts to control their numbers continue – so far, with little effect.
Boats in Skedans Bay, Louisa Island
Sitka Spruce – Picea Sitchensis Spiky spruce has hard, sharp needles, but the new growth is fresh and soft.
Our Boatman After a wonderful lunch of salmon and salad, we set off again, motoring south, and pulling onto the beach at T’aanuu Llnaagaay. James helps us ashore.
Boat on Laskeek Bay
Village Map At one time, there were between 25 to 40 longhouses in T’aanuu Llnagaay: around 1840, there were 545 recorded inhabitants.
Fallen Poles tell Stories of Ancient Haida Longhouses Today, the remains of three house-pits are visible.
Rocky Foreshore The village was in a beautiful location.
Stories in the Woods Xiila leads the small group through the village, explaining the layout along the way.
Mossy Textures
Corrugations in the Moss It’s hard to reconcile the atmospheric beauty of this place with its sad – but proud – history.
Haida Gwaii Museum, Skidegate It’s a long – but quiet and thoughtful – trip back up the Hecate Strait, past Skidegate, and into dock at Daajing Giids.
These places are a living memorial to a proud and creative people.
And, an illustration of the part the mighty cedar plays in the cycle of life.
A Tender at the Beach One of our two excursion tenders, Xplorer One, approaches the beach, on the uninhabited island of Wayag (Wajag) in Raja Ampat, Southwest Papua province, Indonesia.
We were in the doldrums.
Quite literally. For three days, we chugged along slowly, never much more than a few degrees off the equator. Our last stop in ‘civilization’ had been in the village of Kwatisore on Cenderawasih Bay (see: Kwatisore Bay and Village).
Fortunately, unlike the ancient mariners of poems, tales, and old history books, we were not reliant on wind for our propulsion in these chancy tropical waters.
Unfortunately, our vessel, the Australian-registered Coral Geographer, had experienced a serious malfunction on day three of what was to be a 19-day voyage through the Spice Islands and Raja Ampat in Indonesia’s westernmost Papua provinces. Our progress was slow, and our direction had had to be adjusted in order to return to our starting point of Sorong to collect parts and a specialist technician. To complicate matters further, it was Ramadan in a predominantly Muslim country.
But, unlike the intrepid sailors from Portugal, Holland, and England who braved these waters in wooden sailboats in the 16th and 17th in search of precious spices, we were at no risk of scurvy or starvation, and at very little risk of warfare (for a history of the Spice Wars, see: Nathaniel’s Nutmeg).
And, we were in some of the most beautiful waters in the world: dotted with islands and teeming with jagged reefs – reefs that had made life so treacherous for those early sailors, but which supplied us with snorkel and dive opportunities a-plenty.
I had bought myself a waterproof silicone phone cover especially for this trip. While it kept my phone dry during trips in the small open boats, it also rendered the buttons pretty unresponsive to my commands. On these particular days, I managed no underwater-shots worth keeping. So, to give you a taste of the remarkable diversity, I’ve included a couple of shots taken by other people who had proper underwater equipment.
Do join me in the middle of nowhere, somewhere along the equator.
Island in Cenderawasih Bay Slowly, our ship pulls out of Cenderawasih Bay to cruise back around Papua’s Bird’s Head Peninsula. Tropical Islands of varying sizes are everywhere. (iPhone15Pro)
NMI : Reef around Pulau Manim We had a morning snorkel on the reef around the tiny island of Manim. The corals are wildly colourful and varied. My photos were all blurry, so I’ve borrowed this one from guest lecturer Dr Jeremy Robertson.
White Sands and Turquoise Waters After lunch on our ship, we head out again on the tenders: this time for a beach landing on Pulau Manim. The colours are incredible! (iPhone15Pro)
Jungle Behind the Beach The beach is narrow; a few steps from the water’s edge, I walk into a thriving, lush rainforest environment. (iPhone15Pro)
Buttress Roots Spreading buttress roots act as stabilizers for the tall trees in the unstable sandy ground. (iPhone15Pro)
Ship on the Horizon Our ship is anchored out in deeper waters offshore. (iPhone15Pro)
Trees over the Shoreline Nothing says ‘tropics’ to me like screw pines (Pandanus tectorius) and mangroves leaning out over a white beach and crystal-clear waters. (iPhone15Pro)
Islands through the Window Two days later, we were finally back over the top of the Bird’s Head Peninsula (Doberai Peninsula) and into the fabled Kepulauan Raja Ampat – the Four KingsArchipelago. (iPhone15Pro)
NMI : Finding Nemo We went for a morning snorkel in what is (rightly!) billed as an area of sea containing the richest marine biodiversity on earth. The sights and colours were extraordinarily vibrant and varied – but my photos were pretty dull and I’ve borrowed this one from staff-member Sara.
Schooner After lunch back on board, we set off again for a cruise through the beautiful National Park waters around the island of Wayag (Wajag). We are not the only ones here, but it is remarkably quiet.
In the Wayag Archipelago Geographically, these remarkable karst islands straddle three major tectonic plates: the Sahul (Australasian), Sunda, and Eurasian plates.
Emerald Waters The colours and textures are incredible!
Tiny Orchids on the Karst Cliffs These islands sit in Wallacea, that self-contained biogeographical region with a unique mix of Asian and Australian flora and fauna.
Karst Islands Tectonic and volcanic activity has led to the uplift of the limestone islands, and karstification (erosion by slightly acidic rainwater) has carved them into an enormous variety of shapes .
Impossible Cliffs Every island is different! It is amazing how the tropical growth clings to the steep sides.
Islands in our Wake We are surrounded by countless uninhabited outcrops. The colours change with every shifting cloud and shadow.
Boats and Islands on the Horizon We land on a small, sandy beach; rather than go snorkelling again, I take a kayak out for a paddle. (iPhone15Pro)
Wild Orchids on the Cliff From the kayak, I can get closer to the sharp and rugged cliffs. (iPhone15Pro)
Tandem Kayak Others take their turns in the kayak on the pristine waters.
Beach on an Uninhabited Island Even with most of our ship-load of passengers ashore, the island feels almost deserted.
Last Light The afternoon draws to a close, and we make our way back to our ship.
Sunset over the Wayag Archipelago
Back to the Ship Our vessel is ready and waiting – dinner won’t be long!
Selfie in a Sunset Sky Sundown is fast in the tropics – blink and you’ll miss it! (iPhone15Pro)
Truly, a beautiful region.
And made even better by the almost total lack of infrastructure or development.
Of course, we were carrying plenty of our own food and drink – and so were cruising these magical waters in absolute comfort.
In the Courtyard of the Shah-e-Hamadan Masjid Reputedly sitting on the site of Kashmir’s oldest mosque, this distinctively spired iteration in the Old City of Srinagar was built in the 1730s. Constructed without any nails, it showcases the age-old Kashmiri craft of paper-mache decoration and the intricately-faceted wood-panelling known as khatamband.
Kashmir.
That fabled landscape of snow-capped mountains and lush valleys – once a princely state under the British Raj – has long been on my wish list.
Today, portions of the overall region are administered by China, India, and Pakistan, with the actual boundaries frequently in dispute. This often renders the area unsafe for tourists. As recently as April of this year, 26 people were killed in a popular tourist spot within the Indian-administered region, with Pakistani-nationals being blamed (see: BBC News: Pahalgam attackers).
I got lucky!
Back during a period of relative calm, I managed to find a small-group photography tour that was travelling to the region. We had arrived in Srinagar, the largest city and summer capital of the Indian-administered union territory of Jammu and Kashmir, the day before, and were staying in well-appointed houseboats on Dal Lake (see: Water, Dreams, and Woodwork).
The first stop on our first full day in the Old City of Srinagar was at the Khanqah-e-Moula, also known as – among other things and spellings – Shah-e-Hamadan Masjid and Khanqah. A Sunni mosque, it was originally commissioned by Sultan Sikandar Butshikan in 1395 in memory of the Islamic preacher Mir Sayyid (Syed) Ali Hamadani. Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani (c. 1314–1384) was a Persian Sufi saint, scholar, poet, and missionary who is credited with spreading Islam across Kashmir and Central Asia. He also introduced Persian handicrafts to the region, laying the foundation for Kashmir’s carpet and textile industry.
The original building was destroyed by a fire in 1480, so what we see today mostly dates to 1731 – having been rebuilt again after yet another fire. Called Srinagar’s most beautiful mosque, it was reconstructed in the traditional manner, without any nails. All the surfaces, inside and out, are covered in papier-mâché (paper mache) reliefs and khatamband, elaborately intricate hand-crafted wooden pieces held together purely by their joinery – and all are wonderfully painted in colourful patterns.
As Non-Muslim visitors, we weren’t allowed into the building. We were permitted to peek through the front door and windows at the lavish interior. And, we could walk around the outside, appreciating the impressively complicated decorations.
Beyond the old wooden mosque, everyday life continues in the old city streets of Srinagar.
Come for a walk with me!
Still Life Found : Flowers on a Shikara Early in the morning, one of Dal Lake’s distinctive wooden boats is waiting at our wharf, loaded with locally-grown flowers for sale. (iPhone12Pro)
A Lotus and a Kashmir Lily The flower-seller generously gave me a couple of gorgeous blooms. (iPhone12Pro)
Textured and Peeling Wood Taxi shakiras collect us, and we are transported over the waters, through the warren of wooden houseboats, and to the shores of the city itself.
A Butcher and his Hookah As we walk towards the Khanqah Shah-i-Hamadan Muslim Pilgrim Hall, we pass what can only be called very informal markets!
Outside the Shah-e-Hamadan Masjid The old city streets aren’t particularly busy, but there is a mix of foot traffic and two- three- and four wheeled vehicles.
Woman in White Outside the mosque, old women sell bags of pigeon-food.
Man outside the Mosque
Pigeons in the Courtyard In Islam, pigeons are associated with peace and safety. Feeding birds – and other animals – is considered sadaqah: a voluntary act of charity and kindness that pleases God and benefits others.
Water Break in the Mosque Some work is being being done in the prayer hall; one of the workers lets me make his picture as he takes a break. (iPhone12Pro)
Papier-Mâché Colour and Khatamband Pattern Intricate woodwork designs and vibrant papier-mâché colours are everywhere.
Door Pull
Inside the Shah-e-Hamadan Mosque The mosque interior is ornate and elaborately patterned. Four solid wooden pillars nearly 7m (23 ft) in height support the ceiling. Each is decorated with painted wooden chips arranged in a fishbone pattern, carved lotus motifs at the base, and leaf designs in the capitals. (iPhone12Pro)
Woman with Bird Food Many of the visitors to the mosque take time to feed the pigeons.
Decorated Exterior These patterns reminded me of the ceramic tiles on the buildings in old Portuguese streets – but like the rest of the building, it is all painted wood and papier-mâché!
Ladies’ Entrance At the back of the building, we find the women’s entrance. It is much smaller than the main front door – but no less decorated.
Over the Jhelum River The mosque backs onto the main river through Srinagar; through the trees, we can just see the multi-story buildings on the other bank.
A Patch of Light
A Couple on the Steps Back in the front courtyard, I meet a local couple who have come to feed the birds.
Tailor in his Shop Outside the mosque, in the streets of Old Srinagar …
In the Narrow Streets … the bustle of everyday life continues.
Tuk Tuk Corner
Man on a Stoop I don’t see a lot of women in the street, but most of the men are happy to be photographed.
The Public Tap Not all businesses or homes are connected to to piped water, so public water taps are critically important.
Local Man
Food Shop In India, you are never far from freshly cooked food …
Man in a Food Shop … and a welcoming smile – even when you are not buying anything.
Pigeons Overhead Everywhere you look, there is colour and life!
Our walk through the ancient streets continued, through bustling markets and to the next old mosque.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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These morning walks made the long, lonely isolation of repeated lockdowns much more bearable – and I count myself extremely lucky!
Until then,
