Ursula's Weekly Wanders

Papua New Guinea is a remote and rugged country that was untouched by foreign influences for a very long time. Its jungle-clad mountains and wild river valleys are home to one of the most culturally and linguistically diverse populations in the world. For a long time, outsiders thought the Highlands region was unpopulated, and international missionaries, mining interests, and anthropologists made almost no inroads into the interior until well into the 20th century.

Almost 40% of Papua New Guinea’s 7 million people (July 2020 est.) live below the poverty line. Although agriculture still provides a subsistence livelihood for 75% of the population, it is considered to be one of the poorest countries in the Asia Pacific region. Nearly two-thirds of the county’s export earnings come from mineral deposits developed since the 1970s, but the resultant economic boom has not trickled down into local communities.

So, the growing tourism and hospitality sector provides some hope for distinctive tribal communities who want to preserve their cultural heritage into the future while gaining access to economic boons.

Sing sings, gatherings of neighbouring Papua New Guinean tribes or villages to share their distinct culture, dance, and music, have long been a feature in the country, and have resulted in a welcome mitigation of traditional inter-tribal warfare. In recent years, these festivals have been more actively marketed to tourists, contributing to local income and an ongoing pride in culture and heritage.

But, this is not without its own difficulties: some of the more distinctive and popular groups are, in effect, fighting a “trademark” battle over their own traditional costumes. The image of the Asaro mudmen from the Eastern Highlands Province, for example, has often been used in advertising and popular culture without the consent of the originating community. And, much to the dismay of Asaro families, in the neighbouring Simbu (Chimbu) Province, mudmen designed there have been incorporated into local tourist demonstrations (see: The Asaro Mudmen: Local Property, Public Culture?). The Chimbu, or Simbu, are credited with originating the zombie-like skeleton men (see: Skeleton Men) – but these unique creations have also migrated outside the region of their origins, and taken on new forms.

For the outsider, it is a minefield! Some tourism operators do warn that, with the lure of money, some groups might perform ceremonies “not traditional to their tribal group or … [not] at the traditional time of year.” But, even with responsible operators, visitors can get caught up in local disputes. I have personally been contacted by someone who said the mudmen whose photos I shared previously (see: Asaro Mudmen), were not entitled to the representation; I referred him back to my local contact, as I’m in no position to judge!

In spite of the Highlands being a field-study goldmine for burgeoning anthropologists all through the 20th century (including for one of my favourite tutors back at university), I have found getting any in-depth information on-line about individual tribes difficult. (I found one lengthy and not particularly helpful monograph written by a Lutheran minister who lived and worked in Simbu Province for 40-odd years – but little else.) Even when I have  looked up the sing sing group names as written on the cardboard signboards, I have found little or no information. Plenty of poorly-captioned pictures exist, and tourist-operator blurbs saying: “Little is known about …”, referring to this tribe or that. Different variations of custom-origin stories get cut-and-pasted from one site to the next, but with the dearth of substantial information, it is no surprise that cultural appropriation takes place in a land where open tribal warfare still exists.

So, although I was at the Mount Hagen Cultural Show, one of Papua New Guinea’s most popular cultural events, with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours, and with the guidance of a well-credentialed local operator, I can’t speak to the bonafides of the tribal people I met and photographed. Nor can I tell you much about the “why” of most of their particular customs and festival attire.

I can, however, share a wonderful glimpse into a unique tribal world of fiercely guarded, proud traditions.

Join me!

It is easy to see how these warring tribes were able to intimidate each other in the past.

At least today it is mostly in good humour and for show.

Until next time,

Safe Travels!

Pictures: 19-20August2017