Juniper dotted on the mountainside of the High Atlas Mountains from the Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Juniper on the Mountainside
A steep and rocky path runs from the Azzaden Valley, up through the twisting junipers, over the Tizi Oudid, around the flank of a mountain, and down into the village of Imlil. The High Atlas Mountains of Morocco stretch out all around, as far as the eye can see.

We were starting out early: my Berber guide Mohammed was worried about the impact of the hot autumn sun on our steep climb from the trekking lodge (Azzaden Trekking Lodge) near Tizi Oussem in the Toubkal National Park in Morocco, to the mountain pass we needed to cross.

I was worried too!

I had found hiking in the High Atlas Mountains more difficult than I had anticipated, and spent much of the time struggling and cursing to myself as I walked over the rough and rocky paths strewn with rubbish, donkey droppings, and loose scree. Of course, in the evenings, after a hot bath or shower and over a fragrant tagine of freshly cooked food, all pain was forgotten.

In theory, I was rested. We had only hiked six-and-a-bit kilometres (3.8 mi) the day before, taking a picturesque circuit around the Azzaden Valley (see: Walking in the Azzaden Valley). But, even when I was young, I was no good on up-hills, and the first two kilometres of this day – a 12-km trek through the mountain pass known as Tizi Oudid (Tizi n’Oudid) to the town of Imlil – was mostly uphill.

We set off at 8am. The mountain valley was still in shade that gave the jagged rocks a purple hue. But as Mohammed had promised, before long the sun was up, beating on our backs through an almost-completely-clear sky.

We reached the pass – which sits at 2,219 metres (7280 feet) – before 10am; from there the path flanking the mountainside is as much down as up. That was good news!

The other good news was that we would pass through the town of Imlil itself, giving me a chance to look at some genuine Berber carpets before returning to my accommodation for the night.

That thought, and the breathtaking views (and some nuts and chocolate), kept my spirits high.

Early morning over Azzaden Valley, Azzaden Trekking Lodge, Morocco

Early Morning over Azzaden Valley
As we set off, I have extensive views over the valley from my lodgings. The sky is light, but the sun has not yet reached over the mountain peaks.

Large slab of rock with a Berber village in the distance, High Atlas Mountains, Morocco

Rocks on a Steep Hillside
Everything has a purple hue in the low light. The rocks in these mountains are a mix of volcanic, sedimentary, and metamorphic types, and are scattered across the arid landscape.

Rough stone hut, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Shelter from the Storms
These rough huts are common in the mountains where herders and their goats might get caught out by inclement weather or need overnight protection from predators.

Cairn on a shadowed hill, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Cairn on the Hill
The path rises steadily, up through the rocks – some of which have been piled into cairns.

Exposed roots of a stand of Spanish juniper, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Nature’s Sculpture : Bent and Twisted
I was endlessly fascinated by the twisting trunks and tangled roots of the native Spanish juniper trees (Juniperus thurifera).

Cairn on a rocky red hill, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

More Rocks on the Hillside
As the sky gradually lightens, the colours in the rock become more dramatic.

Spanish juniper on a rocky red mountainside, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Spanish Juniper – Juniperus Thurifera
These native junipers are hardy trees that cling to the rocky slopes, leaning into the winds.

Detail: spiky needles of prickly juniper, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Prickly Juniper – Juniperus Oxycedrus
This Mediterranean High Atlas Juniper Steppe is a montane grass and shrubland ecoregion, home to several types of juniper and cedar. (iPhone15Pro)

Large rocks on a narrow, rough trail, Tizi Oudid, Morocco

Rocky Path
The track around the flank of the mountain is rough under foot and often vague. Good boots and a local guide are essentials!

Shadow selfie on a mountainside, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Shadow Selfie on the Hill
We’ve been on the track just over an hour and the rising sun sends strong shadows over the rough terrain.

Morning light on twisted juniper trees, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Light in the Junipers
The angled morning light sets the rocky ground and the juniper trunks aglow.

Twisted juniper trunks, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Nature’s Artworks : Twisted Trunks

Rocky cairns at the top Tizi Oudid, HIgh Atlas Mountains, Morocco

Cairns at the Top
More rocky cairns mark the pass. Mountain views stretch in all directions.

Detail: Cairns at the top of the Tizi Oudid, HIgh Atlas Mountains, Morocco

2219 Metres – 7280 Feet

Villages in the mountains, the High Atlas from the Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Rounding the Bend
Berber villages dot the valleys as we follow the goat tracks around the mountain.

Mountains in the High Atlas from the Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Mountain Peaks
The High Atlas stretch out into the distance. The path itself is loose and rocky underfoot.

Villages in the mountains, the High Atlas from the Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Red Mountainside
The mountainsides show off their striations of colour as the sun sits high in the sky.

Black beetle on a rock, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Black Beetle
In the absence of any other wildlife (we could hear goat herders’ dogs higher up), I got excited by a common darkling beetle.

Imlil from the Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Imlil Below
The Imlil Valley is fed by the Rehraya River, and is lush with fields of barley and corn, and orchards of walnuts, apples, and cherries.

Red leaf beetle on a rock, Tizi Oudid track, Morocco

Leaf Beetle – Chrysomela Populi

Mule laden with goods, Tizi Oudid track, Imlil Morocco

Loaded Mule
The little mules and donkeys who service these rough tracks seem to carry their body-weight in goods.

Mosque and village on the outskirts of Imlil, Morocco

Into Imlil
Finally! We draw into Imlil, where damage from the devastating September 2023 earthquake is still visible.

Red-billed chough on an unfinished brick wall, Imlil, Morocco

Red-Billed Chough – Pyrrhocorax Pyrrhocorax
Everywhere you look, repair and rebuilding is taking place.

An Imlil Street, High Atlas, Morocco

In a Village Street
Imlil is at the end of the paved road from Marrakesh and caters to the tourists who come to hike in nearby Toubkal National Park.

Hamsa pendants and other jewellery, Imlil Morocco

Souvenirs and Talismans
The shops are full of arts, crafts, and souvenirs. I was on the hunt for my own Berber rug.

Rough concrete steps to the Kasbah du Toubkal, Imlil Morocco

Stairs to the Kasbah
The Kasbah du Toubkal, where my walk will end, sits atop a hill on the outskirts of Imlil.

The Kasbah Shop, Imlil Morocco

The Kasbah Shop
Admiring more carpets makes for a good excuse to stop after the short, steep climb. (iPhone15Pro)

Environmental portrait: seated berber man, The Kasbah Shop, Imlil Morocco

Fattah Albaz
The shopkeeper is always ready to offer cups of mint tea and have a chat.

Text: Happy Walking!My four days of hiking in the High Atlas ended here: with a hot shower, a tasty tagine, and one last night at the Kasbah before travelling back to Marrakesh the next day.

As reminders of my trek, I had sore muscles, a sense of accomplishment, and a nice new Berber rug.

Until next time!

Photos: 12October2024

Three guitarists on the Crossroads Stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay, Australia

Maoli on the Crossroads Stage
Maoli means ‘native’ or ‘indigenous’ in Hawaiian, and signifies authenticity and genuineness. Under the name Maoli, Kana Akiu-Corpuz, Glenn Awong, and Nuu Kahalehau play a blend of reggae, roots, and country – all with Hawaiian overtones. You don’t get much more boundary-crossing than that!

Any visitor to these pages knows I love my music festivals.

While small festivals (eg: Thredbo Blues, Thredbo Jazz, and Vancouver Island Music Festival) have their charm, the granddaddy of them all is the annual Easter long-weekend Byron Bay Bluesfest. I first attended back in 1999 when it was a three-day celebration of local and international blues and roots music. It featured an incredible number of my favourite artists and introduced me to some wonderful ‘new’ names.

My penultimate attendance was back in 2019 (Byron Bay Bluesfest 2019). I bought tickets for 2020 before going home. Of course, that one was cancelled on account of Covid19. But, I hung in there, and bought tickets for 2021. That year, the festival was Covid19-cancelled again – but at the last minute this time: less than 24 hours before commencement. By then, after long days of driving, I was already lodged in Byron Bay. As I sat for a week watching the rain falling outside my modest cabin, the heart went out of me and I collected my refund.

Last year, they advertised that the four-day 2025 event would be the last. I had great sympathy for the organisers: staging an event of this size in this new, uncertain world is a fraught and risky business. So, I contacted a friend, and together we decided to take the plunge.

Of course, the event sold out and was absolutely jam-packed. And, as we found out later: they never believed it would be the last.

Festival photos (especially without a Press Pass!) are taken under challenging conditions: stage lighting is unpredictable; the tents are dark and crowded; and great swathes of space in front of the stage is reserved for VIP ticket-holders. But, surmounting those challenges is usually part of my enjoyment. I love getting that “one” picture that I’m happy with.

While this year’s lineup included some of my local favourites, there was very little by way of international offering that was high on my list. Looking back at my photos, I have difficulty sorting out my feelings about an event which was so crowded that tents were – at times – dangerous, and which – although it offered lots of good music – featured fewer high-points than usual.

So, to keep life simple, I’ve started chronologically: with some of the performers I saw on the first day – the Thursday afternoon. 

I hope you enjoy the pictures:

Crossroads tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Bluesfest Tents
We got ourselves to the grounds nice and early; the big tents were ready to be filled with music. (iPhone15Pro)

Man in Aboriginal design t-shirt, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Welcome to Country
An Arakwal elder from the local Bundjalung Nation welcomed us to country.

Arakwal Dubay Dancers on stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Arakwal Dubay Dancers
The welcome dance is about sweeping out bad spirits and bringing in the good.

Arakwal Dubay Dancers on stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Dubay = Women
This troupe is made up of young local Indigenous women who dance both traditional and newly choreographed pieces.

Long view of Electric Cadillac on stage in the Delta Tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Electric Cadillac in Delta Tent
After the Welcome, I wandered over to the Delta Tent for my first taste of blues.

Electric Cadillac on stage in the Delta Tent, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Rocking the Delta Tent
Electric Cadillac is a four-piece blues-rock band from Jakarta, Indonesia. (iPhone15Pro)

Kongko Bangun Pambudi from Electric Cadillac, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Frontman and Lead Guitar
Under Kongko Bangun Pambudi, Electric Cadillac play a mix of blues, funk, and soul: originals as well as old standards.

Young child chasing bubbles, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Chasing Bubbles
Bluesfest has always been family-friendly. This year, there seemed to be many more children than previously.

Kongko Bangun Pambudi from Electric Cadillac, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Introducing the Players
Electric Cadillac frontman Kongko introduces the rest of the band.

M Ade Irawan from Electric Cadillac on keyboard, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

M Ade Irawan
Described as a jazz and blues pianist, blind virtuoso keyboard player Ade Irawan lifts Electric Cadillac to greater heights.

Pierce Brothers, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Pierce Brothers
Billed as a folk duo, these twin brothers from Melbourne brought plenty of energy to the Delta tent.

Budjerah, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

“They Gonna Know my Name”
Reminding me of Stevie Wonder, young Budjerah had the audience in the palm of his hands. 

Budjerah, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Budjerah
Budjerah’s name means first light: he was born just before morning sunrise. The son of licensed pastors, he grew up singing gospel music in his parent’s churches around Fingal Head in the far northeast of New South Wales.

Portrait: Budjerah, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Budjerah Julum Slabb
The young Coodjinburra man from the Bundjalung nation is a multiple-award winning singer-songwriter; he supported Ed Sheeran on his 2023 Australian tour.

Three guitarists on the Crossroads Stage, Bluesfest Byron Bay, Australia

Maoli
The next performers in the Crossroads tent were these Island/country/reggae artists from Maui, Hawaii.

Glenn Awong on stage, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Glenn Awong
Maoli was formed in 2007 by the Hawaiian musician Glenn Awong and has since become one of the most influential and celebrated commercial recording artists across Hawaii and the rest of Polynesia.

Drummer with Maoli, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Drummer with Maoli
Drummers often get hidden in the background – I couldn’t even find the name of this one, but I liked the backdrop.

Tones and I performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Tones and I
This was one I was looking forward to: Toni Watson is SO much more than the “Dance Monkey” hit that launched her into world view.

Tones and I performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

Toni and I on Stage
Toni started performing in 2009 and spent years writing and busking before launching to fame in 2019 with her first single Johnny Run Away and the record-breaking Dance Monkey.

Tones and I performing, Byron Bay Bluesfest, Australia

On the Big Stage
Tones and I won a busking competition in Byron Bay in 2019; now they command a whole stage production. I hadn’t realised how many of her great songs I would recognise. The Crossroads tent was packed: I was a long way back, with a 200ml lens, and the photos have had some heavy cropping!

Text: LetIt was late, but people were still arriving into the grounds. We decided to make an early get-away and not stay for the last acts – after all, we had three more days of music coming our way.

We danced our way back to the car …

Let’s all dance! 

Photos: 17April2025

Chinese fishing nets, Kochi, Kerala India

Those Iconic Fishing Nets!
You could be nowhere else in the world: those distinctive nets, made of teak wood and bamboo poles, suspended over the Laccadive Sea are emblematic of Kochi (Cochin) in the Southwest Indian state of Kerala.

I loved the unique charm of Fort Kochi (Cochin).

Kochi, the financial and commercial capital of Kerala, is a major port city on the Malabar Coast, home to shipping, industry, and the only international marina in India. Called the Queen of the Arabian Sea, with its commanding location on the southwest coast of the Indian peninsula, Kochi has long been a strategic maritime centre, boasting a rich and remarkably cosmopolitan history.

Kochi and ports to the north of it were known to mariners from ancient times and were the centre of the Indian spice trade for many centuries. However, the other ports were destroyed by massive floods in 1341, leading to Kochi’s dominance.

The Arab, Chinese, and European merchants who visited and lived here left their mark in the historic streets around the old waterfront area now known as Fort Kochi. This charming seaside district, in the vicinity of the ruins of Fort Emmanuel (Fort Manuel), is known for its Dutch, Portuguese, and British colonial architecture – some dating to the 15- and 1600s.

Even the magnificent heritage hotel I was staying in was originally built by the Dutch in the 1860s (see: Fort Kochi Heritage Hotel). Although it is upgraded to include modern comforts, it still boasts Portuguese, Dutch, and British influences.

I was travelling with a small group. We had arrived in Fort Kochi the evening before, in time for a piquant South Indian meal followed by a traditional Kathakali dance performance (see: An Introduction to Kathakali).

This morning saw us in our walking shoes, ready to explore the streets of the old city.

Naturally, our first stop was on the waterfront, to see the cheenavala – the unique fishing nets introduced to Kochi in the 14th century by the Chinese. Still in use today, these lift nets made of teak and bamboo are a symbol of the city and a popular tourist drawcard.

Rickety pathway to the Chinese fishing nets, Kochi, Kerala India

A Busy Waterfront
This is India, so I’m not surprised by the heat and trash and chaos on the Fort Kochi waterfront.

Boats on the waterfront, Vasco De Gama Beach, Kochi, Kerala India

Looking After the Boats
The waterfront is crowded with boats and people working them.

Egrets on standing poles, Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Ships on the Horizon
Cattle egrets (Ardea coromanda) rest on poles in the harbour, while rusty working boats chug in through the sea haze.

Boats on the waterfront, Vasco De Gama Beach, Kochi, Kerala India

Vasco de Gama Beach

Chinese fishing nets, Kochi, Kerala India

Chinese Fishing Nets – Cheenavala
These heavy nets are used throughout southern China, but Kerala is the only place you will see them in India.

Portrait: Indian fisherman in a white head-wrap, Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Fisherman
Each of the lift nets is operated by four to six fishermen; they are happy to pause the heavy work for a chat.

Boat on the waters off Fort Kochi, Kerala India

A Colourful Boat on the Waters

Rusty steam boilers in Kochi Dry Dock, Kerala India

Steam Boilers in Kochi Dry Dock
The rusty boilers on display on Vasco de Gama Beach are a reminder of the city’s maritime industry. They were used for twenty years – starting from 1956 – to power the cranes working the dry docks.

Front view of Church of Saint Francis, Fort Kochi, Kerala India

Church of Saint Francis
Our next stop was at one of India’s oldest European churches. St. Francis was originally built in 1503 by Portuguese Franciscan friars. The Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, who died in the city in 1524, was originally interred here.

Portrait: Indian guide inside a dark St. Francis Church, Kochi, Kerala India

Lucas inside St. Francis
In the relatively simple interior, our guide gives us a rundown of the history and architecture of the reconditioned building. When the Protestant Dutch captured Kochi from the Portuguese in 1663, they demolished all the Roman Catholic churches except this one – which they converted.

Hindu musicians in a Kochi street, Kerala India

Musicians in the Street
Back in the streets, a Hindu festival is taking place.

Indian men blowing kombu horns in a Kochi street, Kerala India

Blowing the Kombu and Horns
These large curved brass horns have been used in South India since about the 6th century. They are commonly played – along with other wind instruments and the various drums – during Hindu rituals, and the effect is deafening.

Portrait of a young smiling Indian man, Kochi, Kerala

Young Hindu Priest

Temple elephant in a Kochi street, Kerala India

Temple Elephant
Although the practice is coming under scrutiny these days, many Hindu temples still have one or more elephants – believed to be sacred reincarnations or representations of Lord Ganesha. During festivals, the elephants – in their ornate golden headwear – typically make a neighbourhood circuit.

Two Hindu priests astride an elephant in a Kochi street, Kerala India

Priests
While the mahout walks below, two priests ride the elephant through the streets.

Mattancherry Palace in the trees, Kochi, Kerala India

Mattancherry Palace
Our next stop was at a small palace. Built in traditional Kerala style: a quadrangular structure with a courtyard in the middle, the building itself is fairly unprepossessing from the outside.

View over Mattancherry rooftops from the Dutch Palace, Kochi, Kerala India

Rooftops from the Palace
Commonly called the Dutch Palace, the palace was actually constructed by the Portuguese around 1545. It was built as a gift for the Maharaja of Kochi, to appease him after they plundered a nearby temple.

View over Edakochi Kayal through a barred Dutch Palace window, Kochi, Kerala India

Edakochi Kayal from a Palace Window

Brass items on display in the Dutch Palace, Kochi, Kerala India

Artefacts
The palace is known for its delicate woodwork and its many murals depicting royal life. It also houses some historical items.

View over Mattancherry through a barred Dutch Palace window, Kochi, Kerala India

Mattancherry from a Palace Window
I was most taken by the window seats – all graced with beautiful views.

Wooden panel in front of the Cochin Paradesi Synagogue, Kochi, Kerala India

Cochin Paradesi Synagogue
Our last stop was in Mattancherry Jew Town – named for the Jewish community who settled in Kochi from as early as the 12th century. The first were known as Malabar Jews; they claimed direct lineage to King Solomon. Later, Sephardi Jews – who became known as Paradesi Jews (or Foreign Jews) – made their way to Kochi after their 1492 expulsion from the Iberian Peninsula.

Detail: blue and cream tiles in the Paradesi Synagogue, Kochi, Kerala India

Tiles in the Synagogue
The synagogue features hundreds of 18th-century hand-painted Chinese porcelain tiles, with no two exactly the same. (iPhone12Pro)

Prayer painted on a wall in Hebrew, Paradesi Synagogue, Kochi, Kerala India

A Pillar and a Prayer
“Hear Israel, O our God …” (iPhone12Pro)

View down Jew Street, Kochi, Kerala India

Jew Street
Back outside, the street is full of fascinating shops to explore.

Colourful domes of powder, Jew Street, Kochi, Kerala India

Perfumes and Powders
These are the sorts of talc powders that are used to decorate doorsteps – or elephants. (iPhone12Pro)

Environmental portrait: Indian woman outside her needle-ware shop, Jew Street, Kochi, Kerala India

Craftswoman
I spent some time chatting with this woman, and admiring her fine needlework. She learned her craft as an apprentice to Sarah, the old woman who became the last remaining Jewish resident of this district.

Fort Kochi is truly a rich and remarkably cosmopolitan historic town – it’s no wonder ranked it highly in National Geographic’s Top 25 Tourist Destinations To Explore In 2020 and continues to attract tourists from India and around the world.

Text: Happy TravelsI’d go back!

Photos: 31January2023

 

Agia Paraskevi church, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece,

Church in the Noonday Sun
“Stone and sky, they marry here. It is the perpetual dawn of man’s awakening.”
– Henry Miller
The whitewashed Agia Paraskevi church on a hill in Apeiranthos village, Naxos, Greece, does indeed, marry the sky.

The American novelist, short story writer, and essayist, Henry Valentine Miller (1891-1980) was enamoured of Greece.

I must say: I was too.

I didn’t travel in the same style as Miller: he was there for nine months – originally at the invitation of author Lawrence Durrell – and spent his time in the company of writers and philosophers. I had only one month, and alternated my time between solo exploration and small-group travel.

On this particular day, I was on Naxos in the Cyclades, where I had already been treated to a number of gems (see: Jewel of the Cyclades). I had a free day on my own, and decided to brave the local buses and take a trip into mountains at the centre of the island to visit the fabled marble village of Apeiranthos (Apíranthos or Aperathos).

Only 28 km (17 mi) north-east of where I was staying (as the crow flies?), it was an hour’s drive, grinding up hill and around bends on an old bus full of locals. The town itself – when you get there – straddles an altitude of between 570 and 640 m (1870 and 2100 ft) on the flank of Mount Fanari; not that high perhaps, but having come from sea level, I felt the difference in air quality and temperature.

The similarities of the dialect and traditions to those in mountainous Cretan villages has led some historians to believe that Apeiranthos was built by Cretans, probably during the 10th century; I’ll leave that to the experts (see: Apeiranthos village).

What fascinated me was the abundant use of marble in the buildings – some dating back to the Venetian Empire of between 1207 and 1537. Quality marble has been quarried on the island since antiquity, and its skilled stone carvers and craftsmen have used it in everything from luminous sculptures to roof tiles and pavers. In Apeiranthos, marble is everywhere you look: the walls and window frames of the houses, the steps and pavers in the winding laneways, and – naturally – the goods in the tourist shops.

When I visited, the world was still reeling from Covid19 shutdowns, so the museums and the Woven Products Cooperative were all closed. I contented myself with wandering through the narrow marble laneways and climbing up and down endless steps and hills.

It is no wonder the locals stay fit!

View over the west coast of Naxos from a mountain bus, Greece

Coastal Villages
As the bus climbs into the hills, I get a beautiful view over the countryside. (iPhone12Pro)

Rambling whitewashed house on a mountainside, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Houses on the Mountainside
Descending from the bus in Apeiranthos, I walked up the roadway to get my bearings. High on a hill, a whitewashed home stands against the blue Mediterranean midday sky.

The view back over the Aegean Sea, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

The View
Back downhill, islands dot the waters of the south Aegean Sea.

Agia Paraskevi church, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece,

Church on a Hill
Around a bend, I find the whitewashed Agia Paraskevi church standing against the dark blue sky. This little Greek Orthodox church – dating to 1720 – is dedicated to Saint Paraskevi of Rome, a venerated Christian martyr from the 2nd century.

Elderly man walking in the street, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Everyday Life
Around 1000 people live in Apeiranthos; they certainly get their exercise, walking the hilly streets.

Decorative metal doorway in a marble wall, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Metal Doorway in a Marble Wall
Naxos was the first Greek island to work with marble: in Apeiranthos, almost everything is made of it – including the walls of houses.

Wooden door in a stone wall, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Textured Walls and Door
Clearly, not all the buildings lining the winding laneways are occupied.

Village walkway, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Between the Houses
Walls, stairs, and even the street pavers in this village are all made of marble.

Village walkway, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Narrow Walkway
Many of the double-story houses and laneways here go back to the days of the Venetian Empire.

People walking down a narrow stairway, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Tourists on the Steps
Stairs are everywhere, leading you through the narrow winding alleys.

Potted plant on a worn stairway, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Plants on the Steps
Many of the stairways are worn and wonky, but potted and hanging plants add colour and charm.

Arch between houses, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Archway and Stairs
Arches and tiny tunnels pass between the multi-story houses.

Detail: section of a wooden door and fabric tie, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

The Texture of Peeling Paint

Arch between houses, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Another Archway and More Stairs
No two archways are the same.

White Orthodox dome on a blue sky, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Church Rooftop
Looking up from the narrow laneways, I find another Orthodox dome against the cloudless sky.

View over mills, a church, and the countryside, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

View over the Countryside
The ruins of old stone mills dot the hillside; the Panagia (Virgin Mary) Aperathitissa church has a commanding presence on the main street below.

Narrow stairway, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Marble Stairs
It is like being in a labyrinth! Lanes, stairs, …

Marble arches, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Marble Arches
… and quirky arches lead off in all directions.

Stairs to the market, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Down to the Market
Thanks to my walking app working like a breadcrumb trail, I found my way back to the main street, and set off in search of lunch.

People outside a taverna in the market, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Sagging Stairs and Taverna
The next set of steps looked like it was in danger of collapse.

Front of a marble and ceramics boutique, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Local Marble and Ceramics
A shop on the main street showcases the local stone-craft …

Front of a marble and ceramics boutique, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Pottery and Plates
Fortunately for me, most pieces were too big and too heavy to fit in my suitcase.and Textures

Marble stairway, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

More Stairs Down …
Mоst οf the villаge is οnly aсcessiblе by fοot, with cars аnd buses relegated to the main roаd and the outskirts.

Marble stairway, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

… and Up Again!
That, and the gleaming marble everywhere, is probably why it is regularly called the most picturesque village on Naxos.

Church of Panagia Aperathitissa, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary) Aperathitissa
Near my bus stop, one of the oldest churches on the island draws me in with the tolling of its bells.

Three people with bell pulls, Church of Panagia Aperathitissa, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

The Bells Toll
An elderly woman has died, and her relatives ring the church bells as part of the funeral service.

View over Chalki Village, Apeiranthos, Naxos, Greece

Over Chalki Village
Being located on the side of of a mountain, Apeiranthos is also known for its views. Before the bus comes, I get one last look at the next village below. (iPhone12Pro)

It’s a charming village, seemingly untouched by time.

Naturally, I couldn’t completely resist: I went home with a small piece of inlaid marble.
Text: Keep smiling

And a smile!

Until next time…

Pictures: 23September2022

Portrait: Bald eagle, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Casey the Bald Eagle (Haliaeetus Leucocephalus) 
Casey, who has a non-repairable dislocated wing, is a permanent resident and Animal Ambassador at the North Island Animal Rescue Centre on Vancouver Island, BC Canada.

Life in the wilderness can be tough for animals. Any injury or abnormality can be life-threatening, leaving them unable to fend for themselves.

Life in the wilds is tough for photographers as well. While I’m out bush-walking (eg: Long Roads and Short Walks #2), I’m not sharp enough to identify the birds or animals I hear, and not quick enough to photograph the few I actually see.

So, a well-maintained and attractive animal refuge, where animals are are on view and cared for until they can be released back into their normal habitat, is a win-win.

I was staying with family in Nanaimo on Vancouver Island, on the west coast of British Columbia (BC) Canada. While I was there, I heard from friends that the North Island Animal Rescue Centre in nearby Errington was well worth a visit.

Run by the non-profit North Island Wildlife Recovery Association (NIWRA), which was founded in 1985, the eight-acre centre opened in 1986. Although the Centre is a bit off the beaten track, it has looked after animals from as far away as Saskatchewan.

The Centre’s stated mission is: To care for ill, injured, and orphaned wildlife and to educate the public on wildlife and environmental issuesOver its years of operation, it has expanded its facilities and scope, but continues caring for animals with a range of needs and reintroducing them to the wild when possible. Under expert guidance, an army of volunteers provide public and school tours, help with animal care, and look after the gift shop and the premises.

I was most impressed by the beautifully laid out grounds, the attractive cages the animals were in, and the informative and engaging signposting everywhere.

Do come along to visit some Western Canadian wildlife:

Display hall, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Entry Displays
Entry into the centre is through a light and airy hallway, built in local timbers and featuring taxidermied examples of some of the local wildlife.

Taxidermied owls, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Display Case
Birds – especially owls and other raptors – are the most common residents at the centre. They are elusive in the wild, and aside from the very distinctive bald eagles, I seldom know what raptor I’m seeing as they circle high overhead.

A taxidermied sea wolf, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Sea Wolf – Canis Lupus Crassodon
Vancouver Coastal or Vancouver Island sea wolves are endemic to this region. A unique subspecies of wolf, they are semi-aquatic and live on a diet that is almost completely marine-based. They play an important role in the myths and spiritual beliefs of the local Indigenous peoples, and are often represented in their art forms.

Square wood and wire enclosure, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Enclosure
I loved the leafy environment, and the aesthetic of the enclosures.

Farley the great gray owl, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Great Gray Owl – Strix Nebulosa
Farley here is from Mainland BC where he was hit by a car, causing irreparable wing damage. Great gray owls are the largest owls in mainland BC, and not found in the wild on Vancouver Island.

Raven in an enclosure, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Common or Northern Raven – Corvus Corax
Shooting pictures through enclosure wiring presents its own set of challenges. Raised in captivity, this bird never learned how to find food on its own.

Peregrine falcon, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Peregrine Falcon – Falco Peregrinus
Patrick is a captive-bred falcon who came to the Centre because he suffers seizures that make him ineffective as a falconry bird.

Portrait: Snowy owl, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Snowy Owl – Bubo Scandiaca
Elsa the snowy owl was found on the ground, weak from starvation and unable to fly. It’s unlikely that she will ever be well enough to survive in the wild.

Great horned owls, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Great Horned Owls – Bubo Virginianus
Boo and Spook are like many of the owls who come to the centre with eye and/or wing injuries, or because they were raised in captivity and can’t adapt to the wild.

A wooden teepee sculpture, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Secret Garden

A bench and chairs under ivy, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

A Quiet Corner
The whole property feels calm and invites reflection.

White raven, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Raven – Corvus Corax
Blizzard is a common raven with leucism, a condition similar to albinism that occurs about 1 in 30,000 births. This partial lack of pigmentation makes the birds more visible to predators and more susceptible to harmful UV radiation from the sun. While they feature in Greek mythology and local Indigenous origin stories, they are sometimes rejected socially by other birds.

Portrait: Bald eagle, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Bald Eagle – Haliaeetus Leucocephalus
These beautiful birds are found across most of North America, mainly near large bodies of water. Their numbers are increasing since the banning of DDT in 1972. The Centre cares for a huge number of eagles, who arrive with a range of ailments, including electric shock, gunshot wounds, broken bones, and/or lead poisoning. In 1991 the Centre built an Eagle Flight Enclosure – the largest of its kind in Canada – where recovering birds can build strength before their release. The Annual Eagle Release takes place in spring when the birds have the best chance of success because the herring are running, providing plenty of food.

Squirrel on the grass, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Eastern Gray Squirrel – Sciurus Carolinensis
Even though they are introduced and considered invasive, these squirrels are cute.

A long fallen log on the grass, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Nature’s Sculpture

Picnic table and an Easter Island style head, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Picnic Table

Portrait: a little lizard on a log, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Common Wall Lizard – Podarcis Muralis
I love how animal sanctuaries attract wild birds and critters.

Daisies and California poppies in bloom, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Spring Flowers

Western painted turtle on a log, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Western Painted Turtle – Chrysemys Picta
These turtles are endangered on Vancouver Island. They are challenged for limited resources by released non-native pet-store turtles like the popular red-eared sliders.

Ravensong canoe, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Ravensong
This 40 foot Tlingit/Tsimshian-style war canoe, carved and painted in 1993 by Tsimshian-Norwegian artist William “Bill” Helin, had pride of place at the 2010 Olympic Pan Pacific Hotel Exhibition.

Ravensong canoe, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Bill Helin
In addition to writing and illustrating children’s story books and creating art and jewelry, Bill is part-time Artist in Residence at the Centre, carving and painting on site, and leading traditional cultural drumming and canoe workshops.

Metal rooster, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

Metal Rooster
Every corner brings a new surprise: like this quirky farmyard decor.

Barn owl, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

American Barn Owls – Tyto Furcata
Brothers Jelly and Bean were bred in captivity – and are therefore unable to hunt. They came to the Centre in 2009.

American black bear behind a screen, North Island Animal Rescue, Errington, BC Canada

American Black Bear – Ursus Americanus
It’s a sign of the Centre’s success that all the rescued bears – except this one – had been released back to the wild. Rae, who doesn’t much like the limelight, was found on Vancouver Island alongside the highway. She was underweight and unsteady – and still suffers epilepsy, likely from head trauma.

I really enjoyed my time at the Centre. If I lived on the Island, I’d be a regular visitor! I was so impressed with the whole operation that I slipped some money into the donation box before leaving.

Until next time,

Tread Softly!

Pictures: 18June2024