.jpg) Women in a Queue
The crush of people in the streets of Haridwar during a Kumbh Mela is almost unimaginable – but most of them are happy and smiling. Crowds are a such a normal state of affairs during the festival that I can’t remember what these people were lined up for! It is heartbreaking watching the situation in India with the Kappa and Delta B.1.617 variants of COVID-19 sweeping through the population and devastating communities. First detected last October, the variants – and the societal factors enabling them – have caused a huge second wave of infections and resulted in around 4000 deaths per day at the peak in May (see: Worldometer).
The mass of people who attended the Haridwar Kumbh Mela celebrations between January and April this year has been blamed – at least in part – for this deadly wave. Denial of the event’s potential as a super-spreader has also been rife: back in March, India’s Prime Minister Modi invited devotees to the festival, assuring them it was “clean” and “safe”, and only after the festival’s biggest days – and the illness and hospitalisation of a number of saints and seers – suggested that attendance should, in future, only be “symbolic”.
As I have written before (see: Haridwar Mela) the Kumbh Mela – literally “festival of the pot” – is one of the most holy Hindu religious festivals and pilgrimages, rotating every three years or so across four sacred river locations. The faithful believe that when they bath in these rivers on the auspicious days, they will be absolved of sins and delivered out of the cycle of birth and death.
They travel all across the country for the privilege – and this year many took COVID-19 home with them, while still denying its existence or impact (see: Guardian: Superspreader).
Of course, many people took heed, and the number of participants was well down on previous melas, with 3.1 million people bathing on the most auspicious day of April 12th. The last time the Kumbh Mela was in Haridwar, back in 2010, an estimated 10 million bathed in the Ganges on the sacred day of April 14th. UNESCO has inscribed the mela as the largest peaceful congregation of pilgrims on earth.
The many pilgrims I met while I was wandering the streets and festival campgrounds of Haridwar in 2010 were open and welcoming. For many of them, it was a once in a lifetime experience, and they were overwhelmingly happy to be there.
.jpg) Woman in a Blue Ghoonghat
Everywhere I go, I am met with beautiful smiles. .jpg) Reading the Paper  Sadhu Walking People in a Queue
There are crowds everywhere: if I look out of the city … The Crush in the Streets
… or towards the river-front, the streets are full. Along the Ganges
Some of the ghats along branches of the river are quiet – the main bathing sites are elsewhere. That bamboo fencing on the other side of the ghats is for crowd management. Food Stall
With millions of people on the move, you need food – and the street venders are doing a brisk trade. Man in White Woman in Brown Smiling Man in Scarves
I am always touched and amazed by how generous Indian people are: cheerfully interacting with me and allowing me to make their portraits. Elegant Woman in Yellow Woman in Red Men in the Camps
It’s hot on the dusty walkways that lead to temporary camp that houses the mass of humanity. Sadhu in Saffron
The sadhus fascinate me: … Sadhu in Yellow
… even those travelling together are so different. Guru on a Platform
Inside the camp area, gurus, saints, and seers all have their own large tented areas – and their own disciples. Doing Laundry
This might be a temporary space, but everything is quite orderly, and everyday lives continue. Tent and Cloths Hanging Laundry Smiling Sadhu Sadhu in Red and Gold Group in a Tent
What amazed me about this group is how well the men sit cross-legged – I don’t think you’d find a group of Westerners who could sit so comfortably! Applying Tilaka Woman in Pink In the Camps Mountains in the Background
The mountains rise up into the hazy air behind the Ganges River – and the ghats below are crowded with people. Waiting for the Train
All those pilgrims who come into the city for the mela have to leave again – … The Long Wait
… so the railway station was packed with travellers and their belongings. A Train is Coming!
The joy so many people took in attending this religious gathering was palpable. Given that it only happens every twelve years, I can understand people’s reluctance to forgo their planned pilgrimages.
But, this year’s participants and their communities have paid a high price.
Photos: 15April2010
Posted in environmental portraits,India,TravelTags: environmental portrait,environmental portraits,hindu,people,Photo Blog,Religious Practice,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
Carved Domes
The delicately carved marble domes of the Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, high on a hill in Muscat, are a magnificent example of modern Islamic architecture. Mosques – masjed or masjid – are a prominent feature in any Islamic landscape (eg.: Jama Mosque). With their beautiful domes, their graceful arches, and their soaring minarets, these houses of Muslim worship draw attention upwards and engender admiration, reverence and calm.
During a short stay in Muscat, capital city of the Sultanate of Oman – a Muslim country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula – I spent the morning in two of the cities largest and most beautiful mosques: the Sultan Qaboos Mosque or Grand Mosque, and the Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque.
Non-Muslim visitors (in modest dress, of course) are only welcomed into these holy places during restricted hours, but I had a local guide to maximise my time and to explain what I was seeing.
Traditionally, Islam doesn’t allow the depictions of human or animal figures in religious art, in part because of the prohibition against idolatry and the fear that people will respect or worship the creation whilst forgetting the Creator, and in part from the belief that the creation of living things is God’s prerogative as the divine musawwir (maker of forms, artist).
So, the beauty of mosques is in their architectural structures, and in the richly complex and intricate patterns that decorate them.
The typical mosque form includes ten elements (see: Rethinking the Future), comprising: domes, usually as a part the roofs and often with an oculus to let in light; arches, generally marking the entrances to buildings and rooms; muqarnas, a type of honey-combed ornamental vaulting on the underside of domes or arches, from the Arabic word ‘qarnasi ’meaning ‘intricate work’; tall minarets, often with balconies; a mihrab, a semicircular niche in the wall of a mosque which faces Mecca and marks the direction for prayers; Arabesque art; a rectangular or square hypostyle hall; courtyards; gardens; and an iwan, a rectangular hall with walls on three sides and one open side.
The decoration of mosques relies on three principle motifs: complex tessellations of geometric patterns; arabesques inspired by the curving and branching of plants; and stylised calligraphy of religious texts in Arabic.
Exploring the beautiful Indian sandstone Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, the third largest mosque in the world, and the newer marble-clad Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque, we can see all of these elements in situ.
Approaching the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
On the walk up to the Grand Mosque, we get a sense of space, and can appreciate the architectural elements of the surrounding gardens, the dome, and a minaret. The mosque was built between 1994 and 2001 using 300,000 tonnes of Indian sandstone. Dome in the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
The beautiful filigree dome rises 50 metres (160 ft) above the floor of the main musalla or prayer hall. Omani Guide
Our guide, Said (from NTT Oman), wearing his blue and white muzzar, gives us a briefing before we go inside. Repeated Patterns
With the minaret in the background, the arches inside the mosque are reflected in the shiny patterned floor in the foreground. Lanterns Above
Intricate patterns are everywhere I look – in the ceiling and the filagree lamps above … Stained Glass Arch
… and in the colours of the lead-light glass in windows. Inlayed Patterned Ceiling Omani Man in a Thawb Light and Dark Dome and Blue Sky Arch and Lamp Arch and Minaret Chandeliers in the Main Prayer Hall
The gold-plated Swarovski crystal chandelier at the centre of the prayer hall is 14 metres (46 feet) tall, and until 2007, was the largest in the world. Arches and Chandeliers
A number of smaller chandeliers of the same design decorate and light the building. The Mihrab
The mihrab (or qibla wall) indicates the direction to the Kaaba in Mecca. The honeycomb muqarna above it symbolises the complexity of Islamic ideology. Arch to the Outside
Delicately carved arches frame the surrounding mountains. Holy Books Woman at Rest Arched Corridors Gardeners in the Courtyard
The main musalla or prayer hall is 74.4 by 74.4 metres (244 by 244 feet) square, and can hold over 6500 worshippers. Bright White
A short drive away, the magnificent marble-clad Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque is smaller and newer than the Grand Mosque. Sometimes called the Bahwan Mosque after its benefactors, it sits up on a hill and can be seen from all parts of the city. Elaborate Interior Guide with a Holy Book
Said shows us one of the many ornately decorated religious books at the mosque. Filigree Lamps
Men and women are separated during prayer. The Ladies Prayer Hall is empty and dimly lit when we enter. The Riwaq
Arcades or porticos, open on at least one side, are a common element in Islamic architecture and design. Mosque Library
Countless gilded volumes fill the shelves of library. Religious Students
Two of the scholars in the library are happy to take a break from their work and chat with us. Marble Minarets
All the columns and walls of the mosque are cladded with white Italian Carrara marble, so it shines in the morning sun. At night, the mosque is bathed in blue floodlights. These two mosques are truly beautiful examples of Islamic architecture – and were quite a delicate contrast to the many Omani forts I later visited.
Until then,
Happy Wandering!
Pictures: 20October2019
Posted in Architecture,Islam,Oman,TravelTags: architecture,environmental portrait,islam,islamic,Oman,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Cheerful House Front
The narrow streets and laneways of Colombo’s Slave Island district are full of colourful buildings that speak to the area’s rich multicultural heritage. A walking tour with a companion and a camera is a great way to get to know a section of city, and to absorb the local colour and history.
I was lucky enough to have a friend who had been living and working in Colombo, Sri Lanka, for a few years before I visited the city. As two photography enthusiasts who hadn’t seen each other for many years and had plenty to talk about, we had a wonderful time alternating coffee, lunch, and dinner stops with some serious photo-walking around the city. After a morning of chasing Buddhas in two of Colombo’s very eclectic temples (see: Buddhas of Colombo), and a lunch break, we went for a wander through the suburb of Slave Island.
More commonly known to those who live there as Kampong Kertel or Kompanna Veediya, during the period of British colonial rule (from 1796 to around 1865), this Colombo district was called Slave Island in reference to the slaves held there under Portuguese colonial rule (1505- 1638).
The Portuguese, who first arrived in Sri Lanka in 1505, brought around 1,600 ‘Kaffir’ East African slaves from Goa to what was then Ceylon. The popular story is that in the 18th century, under Dutch rule, the Kaffir population had grown to larger numbers, giving them a sense of strength: they mounted an insurrection, resulting destruction of property and deaths. After subduing the riot, the Dutch started housing the Kaffirs on an island in Beira Lake, which at the time was full of crocodiles.
According to one academic article I found (GHCC Annual Lecture 2019), this whole story is apocryphal. But, the name itself stuck – even after the area was connected by bridges and causeways to the rest of the city.
Today, Slave Island is part of Colombo’s Postal District 2, and is predominantly a re-developed commercial area with hotels, shopping centres and street-food stalls. But, there are still narrow laneways packed with colourful homes, and multi-story shop-houses. The area is known for its multicultural heritage, and remains a mix of Malay, Sinhalese, Tamil, as well as minority cultural groups. Islamic, Buddhist, Hindu, and Christian houses of worship sit in close proximity to each other.
Join us for a wander through the streets and laneways of Slave Island:
Empty Building
Many of the buildings in District 2 stand deserted and peeling. Park Street Mews
Other parts of District 2 have been redeveloped. The Mews is a cluster of old warehouses that has been turned into a vibrant collection of restaurants, bars, and event spaces. (iPhone6) Holy Rosary Church
Roughly 11% of Colombo’s population is Roman Catholic. This charming little church in Slave Island is popularly know as the Infant Jesus Church. Rio Cinema
I love the textures of this old building. It opened in February 1965 screening South Pacific – and finishing out its days showing pornographic films. The building was looted and burned during the 1983 riots, and now stands as an empty shell and an occasional venue for pop-up exhibitions, art festivals, and music gigs. Sri Murugan Temple
Down a narrow laneway, and with Colombo’s Lotus Tower in the background, … Bell Tower
… we find Sri Murugan Temple, one of Slave Island’s Hindu temples. A Musical Deity
Every surface of the temple is decorated with creatures … Deities in an Alcove
… and colourfully painted figures depicting Hindu stories. Al Qadir Hanafi Jummah Masjid
Down another laneway, a beautifully painted mosque calls people to prayer. Blue House Front
So many of the old homes are beautifully kept … Colours on a Wall
… and the colours and textures of the old walls are visually interesting. Tuk Tuks in the Street
Everywhere I look, on the arterial roads … Child on a Bicycle
… and down winding lanes, life is happening. Street Art Stillife Found : Shoes on the Step
Shoes are not worn indoors in Southeast Asia, so there is footwear to be found on every front step. A Hive of Activity In a Hurry The Cousins
I was really pleased to come across these young girls – and their mothers – before it got too dark. Girl in Blue
Cousins and siblings, they are growing up as friends in this small neighbourhood. Girl in Florals
They were great fun … Girl in Green
… and enjoyed posing, … Girl in Denim
… and showing the results on the back of the camera to their mothers. Man on a Yellow Balcony
Overhead, the neighbours were curious. Woman and Girl on a Balcony Sundown over Beira Lake
The afternoon grew late, and the sun dropped behind the high rises in the redeveloped end of Slave Island. (iphone6) There are those that say that the buildings in the remaining old sections of Slave Island are not properly maintained and are run down. There is certainly the risk that the push towards urban renewal will destroy the cohesive streets and charming character of the traditional shophouse-style buildings.
The neighbourhood was a joy to wander through, and the people we met were friendly and welcoming – something often lost in those shiny new high rises.
Until next time,
Happy Wandering!
Pictures: 10November2018
Posted in environmental portrait,Every Day Life,Sri Lanka,TravelTags: architecture,blog,Catholicism,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,everyday life,hindu,Photo Blog,portraits,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
Crystal Crag and Lake Mary
The icy waters of Lake Mary in California’s Mammoth Lakes Basin are a perfect reflecting pool for the unusual granite rock-tower behind. California’s Eastern Sierras are a jaw-droppingly beautiful outdoor playground.
How lucky was I to have a photography-friend with not one, but two bases in this rugged and gorgeous area! Like me, she is a fan of mountain walks and flowers, and we had timed my trip to line up with the best of the mountain blooms (see: Greener Pastures and Wildflowers).
July, when I visited, is the hottest month of the year in these mountains, but the air cools dramatically overnight. It was cold (about 8°C; 47°F) and dark when we got up on my second morning in Coleville. With our cameras and tripods in tow, we set off on a short drive and brisk walk to watch the sun rising over a river bend, high in the Sonora Pass.
Locals will tell you this is the best place in California to live. Mono County is more than 50 times less densely populated than the state as a whole, and clearly appeals to a younger demographic (see: Towncharts: Mono). What it lacks in population, it makes up in unique outdoor beauty. Lee Vining, where we stopped for lunch, for example, is a locality of less than 200 people! But, being on the southwest shore of Mono Lake, near the east entrance of Yosemite National Park, and a short drive from the Bodie State Historic Park (see: Light, Lines and Reflections), it survives on tourism.
The town of Mammoth Lakes, with a population of just over 8,000, is more substantial – but still surrounded by wild beauty that is popular in every season. We spent that evening and the next several days based there before returning to Coleville (population <500).
This is arid country, with most of its precipitation falling as winter snows, so we had crisp, clear skies for our walks among the seasonal flowers. Do join us:
A Bend in the River
Drought-tolerant pinyon pines and juniper trees cling to the rocky riverbanks here, where a low shutter speed slows down the racing waters. In the predawn light, you can just see the snow on the mountains in the distance. Pine Needles
Looking at the dried out needles at the end of these branches, you can understand how fires tore through this region in August-September of 2020. Photographer in the Frame Morning Sun on the Mountains
Just after six in the morning, a golden glow touches the mountains in the background. Sun Below the Horizon
Finally! The sun breaks over the trees and sagebrush behind us. “Prospector Pete”
This is mining country: silver ore was found in Mono County in 1862, and gold was discovered shortly after. The shop at the Whoa Nellie Deli, in Lee Vining where we stopped for lunch on our way to Mammoth Lakes, pays tribute to the old prospectors. (iPhone4S) Afternoon in the Sierras
Once we are settled into our accommodation in Mammoth Lakes, we set out again on a late afternoon hike. Trees in the Hills
The skies are clear and the air is hot and dry. European Starling – Sturnus Vulgaris
I was so excited to spot some wildlife – until I realised it was an introduced common starling! Indian Paintbrush – Castilleja
Wildflowers dot the hills and line the tracks. Hairy Mule’s Ear – Wyethia Molliss Natures Artwork Gorse
As pretty as it is, common gorse is considered an invasive plant in California. A Big Backyard
Even around housing developments, there is a real sense of space. Stump in the Lake
Our last stop – late in the day – was at Lake Mary, the largest of the of the Mammoth Lakes. Fly Fishing
The freshwater lake is popular for fishing … Got One!
… for rainbow, brook, and brown trout. Lake Mary from the West
We were there to collect a family member who was practicing for an ironman swim in the mile-wide waters. Boat on Lake Mary
On the last day of our stay in Mammoth Lakes, we made another trip to Lake Mary – this time in the early morning. The lake has two marinas, and little rented kayaks were already out on the water. (iPhone4S) Crystal Crag
At 3159 metres (10364 feet), the granite rock tower on Crystal Crag is a challenging, but popular, climb starting from nearby Lake George. Kayak on Mary Lake
We opt for more sedate activities. Kayak Colours
There are plenty of rentals available if you don’t have your own boat. I love the colours and patterns they make in the almost-still waters. Lake Mary Stillness
Our endurance swimmer, in his full-body wetsuit against the cold, hardly disturbs the morning peace. (iPhone4S) California Milkweed (Asclepias californica)
Later, as evening falls, we are back in Coleville for a last walk … Moonrise in the Eastern Sierras
… and to watch the moon rise over the surrounding hills. (iPhone4S) I live at sea level these days, and my morning walks are mostly on the flat, so walking in the Sierras where our starting-points were between 1600 – 2900 metres was a challenge!
But, it was well worth the effort.
I’m so glad I have the photos to look back on: with our Australian borders locked down tight, it will be a long time before I get back there – or anywhere else!
Happy Travels …
Photos: 15 and 21July2013
Posted in Flora,Landscapes,Nature,USATags: California,flora,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,USA,walk,wildflowers
Waterways and Bridges
Amsterdam lives up to its reputation as a city of canals and bicycles. The city sits about two metres below sea level, and is criss-crossed by waterways and bridges. The Netherlands is known for its flat landscape punctuated by canals and dikes.
If fact, I was taught at school that dyke was a Dutch word. While it is true that dijk (pronounced ‘dyke’) is a common word in Dutch, it comes from the same Old German word that gave English ‘ditch’.
Sadly, the little Dutch boy who put his finger in a hole in a dyke to keep his town from flooding is virtually unknown in the Netherlands: this story was popularised by American author Mary Mapes Dodge and probably based on a French children’s tale, Le Petit Éclusier, first seen in the mid-1800s.
So, a few myths shattered!
And, contrary to our expectations, even though it was spring and we had seen plenty of tulips and windmills in Belgium the day before (see: Flanders Fields and Beaches), we saw none on our day’s stop in Holland.
We were on our last days on a small ocean cruiser, having come from the Mediterranean, up the Atlantic, through the English Channel and into the North Sea. Amsterdam was the penultimate stop before we departed the ship in Bergen, Norway, and we were determined to make the most of it.
Amsterdam has more than 100 km (60 mi) of canals – more than Venice – so exploring the downtown in a glass-topped canal boat is the perfect way to get a leisurely view of some of the city’s beautiful, narrow-fronted gable houses. In the Middle Ages, the city was surrounded by a moat called the Singel; this now forms the innermost horseshoe-shaped ring around the city. The Singelgracht, together with the Keizersgracht, Herengracht, and Prinsengracht, comprise the UNESCO-listed Amsterdam Canal District: designed at the end of the 16th century, built in the 17th century, and later lauded as a masterpiece of hydraulic engineering, town planning, and a rational programme of construction and bourgeois architecture.
Unfortunately, our canal boat broke down half way through our morning, leaving us stranded before we got to see some of the sights: like the Sloten Windmill made famous by Rembrandt. The timing of our rescue transport meant we missed the afternoon tour we had planned.
But, we did ride some of the canals and walked some of the tree-lined streets. Do come along!
The National Maritime Museum
It is only fitting, in a city surrounded by water and in a country built on its ships, that the first building we pass as we bus into the city is the National Maritime Museum. Originally built in 1656, and reconstructed and modernised in 2011, the building sits on an artificial island constructed over 1800 wooden piles driven into Amsterdam Harbour. One of the many exhibits in the collection is the replica of the three masted Dutch East India Company vessel Amsterdam, which sank in 1749. (iPhone6) Viking Cruise Guide
Our guide escorts us from the bus to our canal boat … Rijksmuseum
… and we chug through the 17th century UNESCO-listed canal system and past old buildings, like the 19th-century Dutch national museum dedicated to arts and history. Layers – Canal Boat on a Canal
It was a glorious spring day and the sun shimmered through the fresh green leaves and bounced off the water. Although Amsterdam is fabled for its rainy weather, we were spared! Amsterdam from the Canals
Classic Dutch pancakes, or pankoeken, are a popular treat. Our Skipper
It must run in families: our skipper’s father also worked on the canal boats. Water, Water …
The waters go on forever. Four of these canals form the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Grachtengordel (Canal Ring) of Amsterdam, but unless I have unique buildings as reference points, I can’t remember which one we were on at any given time. Circle Line and Bridges
This may be the land of Rembrandt, but these waterways make me think of the much later Impressionists. Westerkerk on the Prinsengracht
The Renaissance-style Western Church was built between 1620 and 1631. The Westertoren
At 87 meters (285 feet), the western tower is the highest church tower in Amsterdam. The crown at the top of the spire is modelled on the Imperial Crown of Austria of Maximilian I. Dappled Light Dutch Delft
Our boat stopped to let us explore some of the local shops. Blond Boatman
Meanwhile, other boats and their skippers chug past us; there are countless tours running on canals. Anne Frank House
The 17th-century canal house that reputedly hid Anne Frank during World War II was opened as a museum on 3 May 1960. On the Bridges
Cars are discouraged in the inner city; pedestrians and bicycles abound. With a Boat and a Map
Many tourists explore the city on their own. Houseboat
The canals are lined with houseboats – many are residences or rentals. Amsterdam Centraal Railway
Opened in 1889, the rambling Gothic -Renaissance Revival railway station was designed by Pierre Cuypers – the same architect responsible for the Rijksmuseum we saw earlier. I particularly liked the wind-indicator clock on the central tower. Amsterdam Visitor Centre
The rather beautiful wooden information centre is a short walk from the railway station. Sea Palace
On the way back to our ship, we pass a complete contrast in architecture: Europe’s first floating restaurant – the three-story floating pagoda-style Asian restaurant on Lake IJ. Bicycles
After lunch on our ship, we walked back into the old city. Bicycle Parking
Bicycles are everywhere! The towers of the 19th century Basilica of Saint Nicholas and the 15th century Schreierstoren sit in the background. Recycled-Plastic Boat
Europe has always done better with waste than many other parts of the developed world: these boat on the Oostertoegang are a good example. The Schreierstoren
Known as the Weeping Tower, this 15th tower was part of the medieval city wall around Amsterdam. It was from here that Henry Hudson set sail in 1609, eventually ‘discovering’ New Amsterdam (New York) on the Hudson River. Red Door at the Schreierstoren
In various places around the old city, I looked at metal plaques thinking they would afford me information; they were commercial sign boards! Kloveniersburgwal
The canals look different from the ground than they do from the water. EYE Film Institute Netherlands (2012)
While Amsterdam is generally associated with medieval and Dutch Golden Age architecture, as our ship pulls out of the cruise terminal we catch glimpses of the city’s more modern conceptions. Although we didn’t see as much as we would have liked, we got a brief taste of the city.
And – luckily for us – Amsterdam didn’t live up to another attribute in its reputation: it didn’t rain!
All in all, a pleasant visit.
Photos: 25April2018
Posted in Architecture,The Netherlands,TravelTags: architecture,blog,environmental portraits,landscape,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
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