Moroccan flag flying over the entry to the Royal Palace in Rabat.

Flying the Flag over Dar Al Makhzen
Rabat is one of Morocco’s four Imperial cities: the current Royal Palace there was built in 1864 by Mohammed IV.

The UNESCO World Heritage-listed city of Rabat is known for its blend of tradition and modernity. The capital of Morocco and one of the four Imperial cities, it sits on the Atlantic coast in the north-west of the country. Rabat features clean streets and well-maintained buildings that speak to its Islamic and French-colonial heritage.

The city’s name comes from the Arabic word الرباط (a-Ribāṭ) meaning the ribat, an Islamic base or fortification; this is a shortened version of the name given to the naval base founded there in 1170 by the Almohads in defence of their North African Berber Muslim Empire. Evidence of this period is visible in the walls of the fortress: the Kasbah of the Udayas.

During the Marinid dynasty period (13th to 15th centuries), the city fell into a long period of decline and became a haven for Barbary pirates. The French used the city as their administrative center when they established a protectorate over Morocco in 1912. The country achieved its independence in 1955, and Rabat became the capital.

Lonely Planet suggests at least two days in the city with a guide; we had a few hours. After a morning tour of the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca (see: Lines and Curves and Decorated Spaces), the small group I was travelling with had driven the hour north along the coast to Rabat. Once there, we visited some of the main sights: the Royal Palace, the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, the Kasbah of the Udayas, the Andalusian Gardens, and the medina, before continuing our drive to Meknes, the former capital of Morocco, where we would stay overnight.

Even in a short visit, you can get a sense of the city and why UNESCO values it as the product of a fertile exchange between the Arabo-Muslim past and Western modernism.

Woman walking in a road in the Royal Palace grounds, Rabat Morocco.

In the Palace Grounds
Our first stop when we arrived in Rabat was in the extensive grounds that surround the Dar al-Makhzen, the Royal Palace. The complex includes a large parade ground, a small mosque, and a number of imperial and administrative services.

The Royal Mosque of Rabat, Morocco

The Mosque el Faeh
Commissioned by Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah in the 18th century, the Royal Mosque has been meticulously maintained and restored. There is an ongoing tradition of the Moroccan king leading significant prayers and delivering the Friday sermon (khotbah) here.

Fountain in green Royal Palace gardens, Rabat Morocco.

Fountain in the Central Gardens
A mechouar, or courtyard, sits between the mosque and the Royal Palace.

White storks on a light fitting, Royal Palace, Rabat, Morocco.

Storks at the Palace
White storks (Ciconia ciconia) make themselves at home on the palace grounds.

Royal Palace, Rabat, Morocco.

Royal Architecture
The white walls and green-tiled roof of the Dar Al Makhzen, the Royal Palace, display all the marks of traditional Moroccan Islamic design.

Portal to the Royal Palace, Rabat, Morocco.

Palace Portal
The entry to the palace is ornately decorated – and a hive of activity.

Moroccan Royal Guard outside the palace, Rabat, Morocco.

Guards at the Door
I was fascinated by the different uniforms – and the apparently casual demeanour – at the entry to the palace.

Entry to the Mausoleum of Mohammed V from the bottom of the stairs, Rabat Morocco.

Mausoleum of Mohammed V
A short drive brought us to our next site: the mausoleum containing the tombs of the Moroccan King Mohammed V and his two sons, the late King Hassan II and Prince Abdallah.

Entry to the Mausoleum of Mohammed V from the bottom of the stairs, Rabat Morocco.

Polylobed Moorish Arches and Interlacing Sebka-Decorated Walls
Built between 1961 and 1971, the mausoleum complex was designed by Vietnamese architect Cong Vo Toan and incorporates traditional Moroccan motifs crafted from modern materials.

Intricate chased brass decoration Mohammed V Tomb, Rabat, Morocco.

Intricate Chased Gold Decoration
The roof of the Mohammed V tomb is topped by a beautiful large hammered metal incense burner .

The Grand Theatre Of Rabat from the road above, Morocco.

The Grand Theatre Of Rabat
Across the road from the tomb, I have a view of the Grand Théâtre de Rabat. Designed by internationally renowned Iraqi-born British architect Zaha Hadid (1950-2016), planning started in 2010 and the building was inaugurated in 2024. The curving design is inspired by the winding of the nearby river and by the flow of Arabic calligraphy.

The Mohammed VI Tower from the road above, Morocco.

The Mohammed VI Tower
Africa’s tallest tower stands in complete contrast nearby.

Mausoleum of Mohammed V from the bottom of the stairs, Rabat Morocco.

Horse Guards
The mausoleum has its own formal mounted guard.

Portrait: a horse guard outside the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, Rabat Morocco.

Portrait of a Horse Guard

Boot and stirrup of a horse guard outside the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, Rabat Morocco.

Horseman’s Boots

Pedicab in Boulevard Mohamed Lyazidi, Rabat Morocco.

Pedicab
The Boulevard Mohamed Lyazidi outside the mausoleum is busy with all manner of traffic.

Men in traditional Moroccan attire, Mausoleum of Mohammed V, Rabat Morocco.

Inside the Mausoleum
It was a formal day of mourning, so we were unable to enter the complex.

Arched Moorish windows, Mausoleum of Mohammed V, Rabat Morocco.

Arched Window
Instead, we walked around the mausoleum compound, admiring the beautifully decorated walls.

A section of the Andalusian wall, Rabat Morocco.

Old City Walls
Back in our bus, we drove past lengths of the Andalusian wall – in varying states of repair. (iPhone15Pro)

The Andalusian-style garden, Rabat Morocco.

The Garden
Our next stop was outside the kasbah where an Andalusian-style garden was landscaped in the early 20th century. It is meant to evoke the feel of a riad, the central open square inside traditional Moroccan homes.

An arched walkway through the old walls, Rabat Morocco.

City Wall
From the garden, we walked around the UNESCO-listed Kasbah of the Udayas and the medina.

Brass hamsa hand door knocker, Rabat Morocco.

Hamsa Hand Door Knocker

Paintings and rugs in a narrow lane, Rabat Morocco.

In the Market
The narrow white-and-winding laneways are filled with arts and crafts to appeal to tourists.

Colourful fridge magnets, Rabat Morocco.

Souvenir Fridge Magnets

Looking across the Bouregreg River from the Kasbah of the Udayas, Rabat Morocco.

Red Harbour Marker
Rabat is bounded by the Oued Bou Regreg, the Bouregreg River, and the Atlantic. The commuter town of Salé is on the opposite riverbank. 

View over the Bou Regreg river from the Kasbah, Rabat Morocco.

Kasbah of the Udayas
This Berber-era royal fort overlooks the ocean. A restoration of the citadel was started in 1914 under the French Protectorate, and today the site – with its scenic views – is a popular tourist attraction.

Ancient wall and gate to the Kasbah of the Udayas, Rabat Morocco.

Bab Oudayas – the Main Gate
This monumental main gate was built in the late 12th century. All of the large horseshoe-arched entrance doors into the Kasbah of the Udayas are richly decorated. The pattern features curved bands of interlacing geometric forms commonly seen in Moroccan architecture. 

View of the lighthouse of Rabat from the kasbah, Morocco.

Lighthouse of Rabat
We take one last look over the Atlantic Ocean before finding our bus.

I certainly could have used more time in the city of Rabat.

But, we turned away from the ocean, and drove inland towards Meknes, the former capital of Morocco.

Text: Safe Travels! UrsulaUntil the next adventure,

Safe Travels!

Pictures: 14October2024

A curve in the Lake Curalo boardwalk, Eden Australia

Low Tide on the Boardwalk
Even in winter, the colours and patterns around the boardwalk along Lake Curalo in Eden, Australia, can be vibrant and arresting. (03August2021)

Remember that time when we were all confined to our houses?

As much as I chafed at have two new and pristine passports locked away, I recognised how very, very lucky I was. I was trapped – like everyone – but I had plenty of space and fresh air, and ever-changing views from the boardwalk just outside my house.

Having to wear a mask was a small price to pay for my allowable 30-minutes of solo “outdoor exercise” in the ever-changing light around Lake Curalo, the estuary (technically an ICOLL – an Intermittently Closed and Open Lake or Lagoon) just outside my front door in Eden, on the Far-South Coast of New South Wales, Australia.

I grew up in a world where winter meant the sparse and dry brown of dead grass and naked trees, and the blanket of white snow that obliterates everything except vague outlines. So, the rich colours of my Australian winter home continue to surprise me.

As I have said before (see: Wintery Colours in my Backyard (Part 1)), I tend not to pull out the cameras when I’m at home, so these are all iPhone (iPhone12Pro) shots that I’ve re-discovered while trying to tidy old files. I’ve originally taken them with Instagram and a square format in mind – and re-editing them into landscape proportions is sometimes a challenge.

But, the challenge seemed worth it, just to remind myself how beautiful this area is. And, what is everyday for me might be interesting and exotic to you.

So, please join me for some quiet wintery walks in my neighbourhood.

Curves in the Lake Curalo boardwalk, Eden Australia

Lines and Curves
Lake Curalo is tidal – especially when the sandbar is open to the Pacific Ocean. On a low tide like this one, there is marshy ground – rather than brackish water – around the support posts of the boardwalk. (10July2021)

Grasslands along the Lake Curalo walkway, Eden Australia

Grasslands
The landscape around the lake is remarkably varied. In the early Sunday morning haze, the tall gums that surround these grasslands fade into the background. (11July2021)

Daffodil in bloom, Eden NSW Australia.

Daffodil in Bloom
In this temperate climate, bulbs seem to get confused and don’t wait for spring to break into bloom. (13July2021)

Boats on Twofold Bay, Eden NSW Australia.

Boats on Twofold Bay
Snug Cove in Eden is a working harbour, with two tugboats and a small fleet of resident fishing vessels. (15July2021)

Close up: Red grevillea flowers, Eden NSW Australia

Rosemary Grevillea – Grevillea Rosmarinifolia
Blooms on the native shrubs in my garden provide a splash of colour in the winter morning light. (03August2021)

Three spoonbills wading, Lake Curalo, Eden Australia

Royal Spoonbills – Platalea Regia
Every day, there is a different mix of waterbirds on the estuary. (03August2021)

Two black swans swimming, Lake Curalo, Eden Australia

Black Swan – Cygnus Atratus
A large number of black swans are at home on the lake – but they change location regularly and often hide in the tributaries. So the number I see on a daily basis is variable. (03August2021)

Detail: grass around the Estuary, Lake Curalo, Eden Australia

Grasses around the Estuary
Soft tufts of grass contrast with the red sorrel and saltbush, and the green tea trees (melaleuca) in the background. (03August2021)

Melaleuca behind squares of a fence, Lake Curalo, Eden Australia

Rusty Fence
A caravan park and a public high school back onto the boardwalk on Lake Curalo. There is a fence, but the gate here is open, and the school students often take kayaks out via a small boat launch nearby. (03August2021)

Waterbird wading, Lake Curalo, Eden Australia

On the Estuary
(05August2021)

Colourful grasses around Lake Curalo waters, Eden Australia

Winter Colours in the Grass
Colour is everywhere, including in the tufts of grass at the shallow edges of the estuary. (07August2021)

Coastal wattle in bloom, Eden, NSW Australia

The Green and Gold
Australia’s national colours are inspired by wattle trees. The coastal wattle (acacia longifolia) generally blooms between August and October. (08August2021)

Low water on the mud of the estuary, Lake Curalo, Eden Australia

Morning Sparkle
The low winter sun angles off the shallow waters … (13August2021)

Shiny low waters on Lake Curalo, Eden Australia

The Impossible Brightness of Morning
… causing a brilliant sparkle that pierces my eyes.  (14August2021)

Waterbirds on Lake Curalo, Eden Australia.

Morning Low Tide
Spoonbills and ibises are regular visitors to the mudflats at low tide, and egrets, herons, black swans and Australian pelicans can usually be found. (17August2021)

Poles standing in the shallow waters of Lake Curalo, Eden Australia.

Ripples and Poles
We often experience gale-force winds, straight up from Antarctica; then there are days like this, when even the ripples are soft and quiet. (18August2021)

Reflections of tea trees on Palestine Creek, Eden NSW Australia.

Reflections on Palestine Creek
The waters in the tributaries into Lake Curalo are more sheltered than the lake itself – and reflect the surrounding tea trees (melaleuca) in their clear, glassy surfaces. (22August2021)

Close-up: red and green leaves, Lake Curalo Eden NSW Australia.

Greenery on Palestine Creek
(22August2021)

Full moon in a pink sky over Lake Curalo, Eden Australia.

Moonrise over the Estuary
Winter often brings magnificent skies. (22August2021)

black swans swimming, Lake Curalo, Eden Australia

Swans on the Blue-Green Waters
Every day the colours are different. The black swans (Cygnus atratus) look so elegant gliding across the lake, even with pond-grass hanging from their beaks. (24August2021)

Waterbirds on Lake Curalo, Eden Australia.

Oystercatchers and Ducks
I’m always pleased when the Australian pied oystercatchers (Haematopus longirostris) visit. The Australian wood ducks (Chenonetta jubata), on the other hand, are around all year, and can often be seen with large broods of fluffy ducklings. (24August2021 )

Reflections of tea trees in a shiny wet boardwalk, Lake Curalo, Eden Australia

Wet Boardwalk
Winter brings a lot of rain. It’s all about the right clothing! (24August2021)

Two galahs on a rainy railing, Lake Curalo, Eden Australia.

Galahs on the Rails
The older iPhones didn’t always do terribly well on details, but I like the splash of pink these galahs (Eolophus roseicapilla) bring to another wet day. (25August2021)

Cormorant on a pole, Lake Curalo, Eden Australia.

Cormorant on Watch
We have three kinds of cormorants on the lake: little pied cormorants (Microcarbo melanoleucos), pied cormorants (Phalacrocorax varius), and great cormorants (Phalacrocorax carbo). I think this is the first. (28August2021)

Text: Keep smilingThese morning walks made the long, lonely isolation of repeated lockdowns much more bearable – and I count myself extremely lucky!

Until next time!

Photos (iPhone12Pro) : July-August2021.

White windmill in pink morning light, Fira Santorini Greece

A Repurposed Windmill in the Sunrise
It is worth getting up early to catch the sunrise over the caldera in Santorini, Greece. (iPhone12Pro)

I’m not exactly a morning person. But, when a walk along the top of Santorini’s caldera is on offer, I’ll make the effort!

The Santorini we see today is what remains of the island after a huge volcanic eruption about 3,600 years ago. That explosion destroyed the early settlements – and what remains of the caldera filled with water. The trail between Fira and Oia, the two most populous towns on the island, follows the north-western rim of this caldera through picturesque villages, past beautiful churches, and over some wild and rocky terrain.

Considered a must-do in Santorini, this 10+ km (6.2+ mi) hike is famous for its stunning views. Rated as moderate, it is definitely challenging in places, with multiple uphill and downhill sections (see: AllTrails). While parts of it are paved, other sections vary between gravel and loose volcanic scree. We were warned that there was no shade and no toilet facilities along the way.

We were staying near Fira (see: Iconic Blue and White). Our guide was determined to set out early to avoid the heat of the day. So, before the sun had even thought about rising, I was in the lobby with my walking stick, hat, and bottled water. I downed a quick coffee, had a last toilet stop, and claimed a bagged breakfast. Before first light, we set off from our hotel to find the path.

By the time the sun was lighting the sky, we had climbed high enough to revel in the morning views.

Looking north from Fira over the artificial lights of Santorini, Greece

Pre-Dawn Blue Light
We set off from our hotel very early. Santorini has only about 15,000 permanent residents, but with the annual influx of tourists, there is plenty of development. We can see the lights stretching out along the top of the caldera to Oia in the distance.

Orthodox Church in pre-dawn light, Fira Santorini Greece.

Church in the Morning
Those famous blue-domed Orthodox churches are everywhere you look. This one is the Firostefani parish church of Agios Gerasimos (Saint Gerasimos), built in 1807.

White windmill in pink morning light, Imerovigli Santorini Greece

Isolated Windmill
By the time we reach Imerovigli – the next village – the sky is changing colour.

Dawn over the islands in the Santorini caldera, Greece

A Pink Pre-Dawn Sky

Sunrise over the islands in the Santorini caldera, Greece

Sunrise over the Islands
Watching the light change over the other islands in the Santorini group is just breathtaking. (iPhone12Pro)

Sunrise through some dry plants, Imerovigli Santorini Greece

Sunrise
We stop to watch the sun rise over the horizon.

The decorated doorway to the Afroessa Hotel, Imerovigli Santorini Greece

Sunrise through the Doorway
How gorgeous are these hotels! And, what a magnificent location. (iPhone12Pro)

Cave house doors, Santorini Greece

Cave House
Santorini is dotted with unique cave houses carved into the volcanic rock. Many of them have been renovated and are used as rental accommodation.

A Santorini hill in the morning light, Greece

Golden Morning
The trail north out of Imerovigli continues to climb.

Blue and white Orthodox shrine next to the Fira to Oia path, Santorini Greece.

Shrine over the Caldera
Roadside memorials, sometimes referred to as iconostasis, can be seen all over Greece. They might be a memorial to a dead person, but are often intended to provide holy protection against harm or accidents. They contain religious symbols (icons, images of a cross, coins, tokens, etc.) and act as places for religious practice – in effect, they are a reminder to pray or give thanks.

Small whitewashed Church of Saint Mark, Imerovigli Santorini Greece

Church of Saint Mark
Chapels and churches are everywhere. The little chapel dedicated to Agios MarkosSaint Mark – sits on a hill overlooking our path.

Blue and white Church of Prophet Elias, Imerovigli Santorini, Greece.

Church of Prophet Elias
We have been on the trail an hour when we reach this pretty church with its tidy courtyard and some welcome shade – thanks to a few pines; a rarity on Santorini. The church, built in 1750, is dedicated to the Israelite prophet Elijah the Tishbite.

Walkers on a cobbled path, Imerovigli Santorini, Greece.

Walkers on the Path
My walking companions head off on a cobbled downhill section; …

Walkers and a shadow on a cobbled path, Imerovigli Santorini, Greece.

Down the Stairs and into my own Shadow
… I just can’t resist hanging back to get a shadowed selfie in the sun. (iPhone12Pro)

View over the Santorini Caldera from the Fira to Oia path, Greece.

Over the Caldera
The views never stop!

Small white Chapel of the Assumption of the Virgin, Oia Santorini Greece.

Chapel of the Assumption of the Virgin
We are close to rounding our our second hour, and are getting nearer to Oia.

Boulders along the Fira to Oia path, Greece.

Rocks along the Trail

Mustard yellow mud brick hut, Oia Santorini Greece.

Mud Brick Hut
Accommodation on the island takes all forms!

Jagged rocks and standing stones along the Fira to Oia path, Greece.

Nature’s Artworks : Standing Stone Sculpture
The last section of the walk takes us through some rough and remarkable terrain.

Looking down over a chapel and the Santorini caldera from the Fira to Oia path, Greece.

Chapel with a View
Another chapel clings to the edge of the caldera – I never could find the name of this one.

An old wooden row boat, Oia, Santorini Greece.

Still Life Found : Mastrogiannis

View over the blue domes of Oia, Santorini Greece.

Into Oia
Two and a half hours after starting out, we were well into Oia – and ready for well-earned coffees.

Text: Happy Walking!

It truly is a stunning walk!

I felt rather sorry for my travelling companions who had made their way to Oia by car instead of walking. They got coffee as well, but none of the experience and satisfaction.

That coffee tasted so good!

Photos: 25September2022

Long, mossy logs between giant trees, T

Long Logs – Tall Trunks
Slowly, the mighty evergreen trees rise to the sky. Slowly, the poles from the abandoned longhouses are reclaimed by the earth. Western red cedars (Thuja plicata) are central to the physical and spiritual lives of the Haida people.

(Click to start Cedar Sister by Terri-Lynn Williams-Davidson.)

In the Haida worldview, the cedar tree is known as “every woman’s sister”, providing for and sustaining our existence. This ancient sister lies at the root of Haida culture. She permeates every facet of Haida life, beginning in the cradle and continuing to the grave and finally, ending at the memorial potlatch and raising of memorial totem poles to commemorate and celebrate one’s life and contributions to the community.

– Terri-Lynn Williams-Davidson

Haida Gwaii, an archipelago in the northern Pacific waters of BC, Canada, is a stunningly beautiful place.

The people who have been part of these islands for at least 13,000 years are intimately connected with the land, the magnificent tall trees, the pristine coastal waters, and the animals who live here.

Nowhere is this interconnection more apparent than in the abandoned Haida villages of Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay, Grizzly Bear Village, (also known as Skedans) on Louise Island and T’aanuu Llnaagaay (Tanu), meaning Eel Grass Village, on on Tanu Island. The fallen poles that were once carved memorials or houseposts lay covered in moss, slowly decaying back to the earth, sustaining the next generation of tall, stately trees. There is a sacred stillness in this forest, with stones, worn totems, and moss-covered house-pits standing as a silent memorial to those who once lived here.

The Haida call decaying cedar stumps ‘nursery trees’; they give life to the next generation.

Haida Gwaii is the heartland of the Haida Nation. Linguistically distinct from other First Nations peoples, the Haida developed a complex class and rank system consisting of two main clans: the Raven and the Eagle. The fertility of their landscape and abundance in the waterways allowed them to foster their artistic skills, and their artwork is highly valued today.

Before the arrival of Europeans, there were more than 100 villages scattered around the archipelago. Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay and T’aanuu Llnaagaay each had between 25 to 40 extended families, with each housed in their own longhouse.

Europeans first sighted the archipelago in the late 1700s, and it became important to the maritime fur trade, and later, to gold prospectors. This lead to multiple waves of new illnesses: typhoid, measles, syphilis, and smallpox. It is estimated that ninety percent of Haida died as a result. The 1862 Pacific Northwest smallpox epidemic alone killed over seventy percent of the population.

With such a dramatic reduction in numbers, most villages – like Ḵ’uuna Llnagaay and T’aanuu Llnaagaay – were abandoned in the late 1800s. The few remaining people regrouped, leaving behind mortuary poles, mortuary houses, and the remains of the original longhouses.

These villages are now designated part of a National Historic Site of Canada and are administered by the Council of the Haida Nation and Parks Canada. They can only be visited with permission, and with Haida guides/escorts.

I wanted to take in as much of Haida Gwaii as I could (eg: Welcome to Haida Gwaii and Stories in the Rocks and Trees). But, I was travelling in shoulder season and Covid19 lockdowns had not long-since ended. Tour operations were not running a full calendar and I was only able to schedule one day-trip into the restricted and difficult-to-access regions of the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve during my stay.

That trip was a day to remember. Join me among the cedars and Sitka spruce.

Haida Style boat on the wooden dock, Daajing Giids, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Boats on the Daajing Giids Docks
It was a short walk from my accommodation in Queen Charlotte to the docks to meet my Haida Style vessel.

Portrait: Haida man on a boat dock, Daajing Giids, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Boatman and Tour Leader
Local to Haida Gwaii, our boat operator James was a wealth of knowledge.

Portrait: young Haida woman on a boat, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Young Haida Woman
Xiila is also a Haida native – albeit living on the mainland so she can study nursing at University. She was glad to be home for the summer, where ‘the air smells SO much better!’

Sea Lion Colony, Hecate Strait, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

A Rocky Outcrop
After almost two hours travelling south down the Hecate Strait in our 30-foot closed-cabin vessel, we slowed at a rocky island near Louisa Island.

Steller sea lions on a rocky outcrop, Hecate Strait, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

A Sea Lion Colony
You hear and smell them before you see them! These are Steller sea lions (Eumetopias jubatus), a large, near-threatened species of eared seals (Otariidae).

Large bull Steller sea lion and several females on a rocky outcrop, Hecate Strait, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Steller Sea Lions – Eumetopias Jubatus
These are the largest of the seals: bulls can weigh between 450–1,120 kg (990–2,470 lb). The paler females sharing his territory are much smaller and average around 263 kg (580 lb).

Black guillemot on the water, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Black Guillemot – Cepphus Grylle

A bald eagle in flight, Hecate Strait, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Eagle on the Wing
Bald eagles (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) are everywhere: watching from their perches high on the cliffs, and circling over the waters for prey.

American black bear, Louisa Island, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Bear on the Shore
We slow down to watch a young American black bear (Ursus americanus) on the beach on Louisa Island – near where we are about to land.

Carved bird in front of the watchhouse, Ḵ

Carving and the Watchhouse
We disembark our little vessel on Louisa Island where Grizzly Bear VillageḴ’uuna Llnagaay – once thrived, and stop in to pay our respects to the Watchmen. Once upon a time, Watchmen were symbolic: tall-hatted figures at the top of village poles, keeping the inhabitants safe. Since the 1980s, however, Haida Watchmen are actual people, who share cultural stories and protect the old villages from looting and vandalism.

Portrait: Haida woman in K

Gidinjaad – Cousin DiDi
Eagle Woman and Watchman in K’uuna Village, Cousin DiDi, shares stories of her life and culture.

Hummingbird at a feeder, K

Rufous Hummingbird – Selasphorus Rufus
I love watching these delightful and feisty creatures. They are often represented in Northwest Coast – including Haida – jewellery and art as symbols of love and beauty.

Driftwood and stones on the shore, K

Nature’s Artworks : Driftwood and Stones

Portrait: young Haida woman talking, K

Telling Stories
Xiila is the daughter of a current chief on Graham Island, and a descendant of the people who once lived in this village. She tells us historical stories, as well as myths her grandmother told to her.

Leaning potlatch pole and moss-covered poles, K

Leaning Potlatch Pole
The tall cedar poles are left where they fall. The one at the back has carved rings, thought to depict how many potlatches the chief had hosted. Potlatches were important gift-giving feasts involving the giving away or destroying of precious goods to demonstrate a leader’s wealth and power.

Fallen Potlatch Pole
Potlatches took long preparation; they were usually held to celebrate special events. They included days of music, dancing, singing, storytelling, making speeches, and often joking and games. The supernatural was often invoked, and oral histories and regional alliances were reinforced. The practice was banned by the Canadian government between 1885 and 1951, but continued underground.

Close up: Weatherred carving on a totem pole, K

Totem Textures

Sitka black-tailed deer in tall grass, K

Sitka Black-Tailed Deer – Odocoileus Hemionus Sitkensis
While it is lovely to spot wildlife, these destructive creatures were introduced between 1878 and 1925, by European settlers. In the absence of predators, their population boomed, leading to overgrazing and destruction of culturally important vegetation. Efforts to control their numbers continue – so far, with little effect.

Small boats in Skedans Bay, Louisa Island, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Boats in Skedans Bay, Louisa Island

Detail: new growth Sitka spruce, Louisa Island, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Sitka Spruce – Picea Sitchensis
Spiky spruce has hard, sharp needles, but the new growth is fresh and soft.

Portrait: Haida man on a beach, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Our Boatman
After a wonderful lunch of salmon and salad, we set off again, motoring south, and pulling onto the beach at T’aanuu Llnaagaay. James helps us ashore.

Boat on Laskeek Bay, Tanu Island, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Boat on Laskeek Bay

Village Map posted on a tree, T’aanuu Llnagaay, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Village Map
At one time, there were between 25 to 40 longhouses in T’aanuu Llnagaay: around 1840, there were 545 recorded inhabitants.

Moss covered fallen poles over a house pit T’aanuu Llnagaay, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Fallen Poles tell Stories of Ancient Haida Longhouses
Today, the remains of three house-pits are visible.

Shoreline of Tanu Island, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Rocky Foreshore
The village was in a beautiful location.

Small group in T’aanuu Llnagaay, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Stories in the Woods
Xiila leads the small group through the village, explaining the layout along the way.

Moss covered fallen logs and poles, T’aanuu Llnagaay, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Mossy Textures

Moss covered fallen logs and poles, T’aanuu Llnagaay, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Corrugations in the Moss
It’s hard to reconcile the atmospheric beauty of this place with its sad – but proud – history.

Haida Gwaii Museum, Skidegate, Haida Gwaii, BC Canada.

Haida Gwaii Museum, Skidegate
It’s a long – but quiet and thoughtful – trip back up the Hecate Strait, past Skidegate, and into dock at Daajing Giids.

These places are a living memorial to a proud and creative people.

And, an illustration of the part the mighty cedar plays in the cycle of life.

Let us tread softly on this earth.

Photos: 12June2022

 
 

A tender approaching a jungle-covered karst island, Raja Ampat, Indonesia.

A Tender at the Beach
One of our two excursion tenders, Xplorer One, approaches the beach, on the uninhabited island of Wayag (Wajag) in Raja Ampat, Southwest Papua province, Indonesia.

We were in the doldrums.

Quite literally. For three days, we chugged along slowly, never much more than a few degrees off the equator. Our last stop in ‘civilization’ had been in the village of Kwatisore on Cenderawasih Bay (see: Kwatisore Bay and Village).

Fortunately, unlike the ancient mariners of poems, tales, and old history books, we were not reliant on wind for our propulsion in these chancy tropical waters.

Unfortunately, our vessel, the Australian-registered Coral Geographer, had experienced a serious malfunction on day three of what was to be a 19-day voyage through the Spice Islands and Raja Ampat in Indonesia’s westernmost Papua provinces. Our progress was slow, and our direction had had to be adjusted in order to return to our starting point of Sorong to collect parts and a specialist technician. To complicate matters further, it was Ramadan in a predominantly Muslim country.

But, unlike the intrepid sailors from Portugal, Holland, and England who braved these waters in wooden sailboats in the 16th and 17th in search of precious spices, we were at no risk of scurvy or starvation, and at very little risk of warfare (for a history of the Spice Wars, see: Nathaniel’s Nutmeg).

And, we were in some of the most beautiful waters in the world: dotted with islands and teeming with jagged reefs – reefs that had made life so treacherous for those early sailors, but which supplied us with snorkel and dive opportunities a-plenty.

I had bought myself a waterproof silicone phone cover especially for this trip. While it kept my phone dry during trips in the small open boats, it also rendered the buttons pretty unresponsive to my commands. On these particular days, I managed no underwater-shots worth keeping. So, to give you a taste of the remarkable diversity, I’ve included a couple of shots taken by other people who had proper underwater equipment.

Do join me in the middle of nowhere, somewhere along the equator.

Island in Cenderawasih Bay, West Papua Indonesia

Island in Cenderawasih Bay
Slowly, our ship pulls out of Cenderawasih Bay to cruise back around Papua’s Bird’s Head Peninsula. Tropical Islands of varying sizes are everywhere. (iPhone15Pro)

Underwater photos of the corals around Pulau Manim, West Papua Indonesia

NMI : Reef around Pulau Manim
We had a morning snorkel on the reef around the tiny island of Manim. The corals are wildly colourful and varied. My photos were all blurry, so I’ve borrowed this one from guest lecturer Dr Jeremy Robertson.

White sands and turquoise waters, Pulau Manim, West Papua Indonesia

White Sands and Turquoise Waters
After lunch on our ship, we head out again on the tenders: this time for a beach landing on Pulau Manim. The colours are incredible! (iPhone15Pro)

Trunks of rainforest trees, Pulau Manim, West Papua Indonesia.

Jungle Behind the Beach
The beach is narrow; a few steps from the water’s edge, I walk into a thriving, lush rainforest environment. (iPhone15Pro)

Trunks of rainforest trees, Pulau Manim, West Papua Indonesia.

Buttress Roots
Spreading buttress roots act as stabilizers for the tall trees in the unstable sandy ground. (iPhone15Pro)

Ship on the deep blue waters beyond turquoise waters off Pulau Manim, West Papua Indonesia

Ship on the Horizon
Our ship is anchored out in deeper waters offshore. (iPhone15Pro)

A screw pine and a mangrove leaning out over a beach, Pulau Manim, West Papua Indonesia

Trees over the Shoreline
Nothing says ‘tropics’ to me like screw pines (Pandanus tectorius) and mangroves leaning out over a white beach and crystal-clear waters. (iPhone15Pro)

Tropical islands through the wet ship windows, Raja Ampat, Indonesia

Islands through the Window
Two days later, we were finally back over the top of the Bird’s Head Peninsula (Doberai Peninsula) and into the fabled Kepulauan Raja Ampat – the Four Kings Archipelago. (iPhone15Pro)

Underwater photos of the corals and fish around Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

NMI : Finding Nemo
We went for a morning snorkel in what is (rightly!) billed as an area of sea containing the richest marine biodiversity on earth. The sights and colours were extraordinarily vibrant and varied – but my photos were pretty dull and I’ve borrowed this one from staff-member Sara.

Schooner at rest around Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

Schooner
After lunch back on board, we set off again for a cruise through the beautiful National Park waters around the island of Wayag (Wajag). We are not the only ones here, but it is remarkably quiet.

Tropical jungle on a small conical island, Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

In the Wayag Archipelago
Geographically, these remarkable karst islands straddle three major tectonic plates: the Sahul (Australasian), Sunda, and Eurasian plates.

Tropical plants on a karst island, Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

Emerald Waters
The colours and textures are incredible!

Wild orchids on a karst island, Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

Tiny Orchids on the Karst Cliffs
These islands sit in Wallacea, that self-contained biogeographical region with a unique mix of Asian and Australian flora and fauna.

Tropical jungle on small conical islands, Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

Karst Islands
Tectonic and volcanic activity has led to the uplift of the limestone islands, and karstification (erosion by slightly acidic rainwater) has carved them into an enormous variety of shapes .

Tropical jungle on small conical islands, Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

Impossible Cliffs
Every island is different! It is amazing how the tropical growth clings to the steep sides.

Tropical jungle on small conical islands, Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

Islands in our Wake
We are surrounded by countless uninhabited outcrops. The colours change with every shifting cloud and shadow.

Silhouetted boats and islands in the distance, Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

Boats and Islands on the Horizon
We land on a small, sandy beach; rather than go snorkelling again, I take a kayak out for a paddle. (iPhone15Pro)

Wild pink orchids, Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

Wild Orchids on the Cliff
From the kayak, I can get closer to the sharp and rugged cliffs. (iPhone15Pro)

Kayakers in the islands, Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

Tandem Kayak
Others take their turns in the kayak on the pristine waters.

Empty beach, Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

Beach on an Uninhabited Island
Even with most of our ship-load of passengers ashore, the island feels almost deserted.

Dark islands in a fading sky, Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

Last Light
The afternoon draws to a close, and we make our way back to our ship.

Dark islands in a yellow sky, Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

Sunset over the Wayag Archipelago

The Coral Geographer from the water, Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

Back to the Ship
Our vessel is ready and waiting – dinner won’t be long!

A window-reflection-selfie against a tropical sunset, Pulau Wayag, Southwest Papua Indonesia

Selfie in a Sunset Sky
Sundown is fast in the tropics – blink and you’ll miss it! (iPhone15Pro)

Truly, a beautiful region.

And made even better by the almost total lack of infrastructure or development.

Text: Safe Sailing

Of course, we were carrying plenty of our own food and drink – and so were cruising these magical waters in absolute comfort.

Albeit, very slowly!

Photos: 25and27March2025