.jpg) Bhima pays his Respects
In a small theatre in Fort Kochi, Bhima – a hero and one of the most prominent characters in the Hindu epic Mahabharata – appears in the elaborate costume and makeup integral to a South Indian Kathakali dance performance. India is home to a number of classical dance and drama forms: usually enacting stories from Hindu mythology, and each conforming to an ancient Sanskrit treatise on the performing arts. Each has its own distinctive regional roots.
In Kerala, Kathakali takes its place as a nationally recognised art form, known for its elaborate makeup, stylised movements, heavy costumes, and portrayal of mythological stories.
I had been travelling across South India with a small group on a tour that ended in Kerala. We had spent our last day together exploring Fort Kochi (see: A Morning in Historic Fort Kochi). I had some extra time in that delightful coastal city before taking myself up into the Hill Stations in Kerala’s interior.
On our first evening in Fort Kochi, we had attended a Kathakali performance (see: An Introduction to Kathakali). I was so entranced by it, I booked myself a second performance at the Great K V Kathakali Center. Hearing that the program was different each evening was a bonus.
To people familiar with the Mahabharatha, an epic Sanskrit poem about the battles of good and evil, the excerpt performed on stage might make sense. Even though I had a typed outline of the story, I had difficulty following some of the ‘action’.
Not that it matters! Kathakali is a visual treat – and an aural assault.
Kalyanasougandhikam is a story about Bhima (Bheema) who, at the request of his wife Panchali (sometimes called Draupadi) goes into the forest in search of the intoxicatingly fragrant Sougandhika flower – an auspicious water lily. While there, he inadvertently disturbs Hanuman, who happens to be his half brother, but is disguised as an old monkey so that Bhima doesn’t recognise him.
There is a battle, which Bhima fails to win. Surprised, he demands to know how this monkey could have withstood him. Hanuman reveals himself, they make peace with each other, and life goes on …
Join me in the heat and dark for the complex preparation, a short explanation, and a very noisy short story.
.jpg) Face Painting on Stage
One of the joys of attending the Kerala Kathakali Centre is watching the men’s lengthy and careful preparation on stage. .jpg) Preparation
The men’s transformations into the well-known characters takes patience and precision.  Applying the Beard
The makeup and costumes all follow a prescribed code which helps the audience easily identify the archetypal characters: the gods, goddesses, demons, saints, animals, and other characters that make up each story. Building the Beard
The white beard (Vella Thadi) is reserved for characters who embody goodness, divinity, and refinement. Accoutrements Painting Orange
Watching the layers build up, I have no idea how these faces are going to turn out! Three-Dimensional White
This white is probably rice powder paste, and certainly makes the other colours pop. Green : Pachcha
The performers alternate between being helped and painting themselves. Details Shiva Burns
The whole performance space has a ritualistic feel. A candle in a dancing Shiva frame is garlanded in marigolds – which are thought to bring divine blessings, prosperity, and protection. How the Colours are Made
Our narrator/host explains how the traditional makeup is made, using powdered stones to make the yellow, green, and red; lime and rice flour for the white; and gingelly oil to make the black. On a Maddalam Drum
A Kathakali performances is accompanied by music, which includes drums, … Musician
… cymbals, a squeeze box, and voice. To my untrained ear, it is discordant and loud. Demonstrating Eye Movements
Traditionally, men have performed all the roles in Kathakali stories. The performer playing Bhima’s wife Panchali demonstrates the extraordinary eye rolls that convey particular meanings. Demonstrating Facial Expressions
Facial movements, body postures, and hand mudras also convey meaning. Panchali’s yellow face paint signifies she is a noble, virtuous, and feminine character. And the Story Begins …
Panchali finds a Sougandhika flower on the breeze, and persuades her husband Bhima to go into the forest to find more. Bhima and Panchali
It is a lengthy, but affectionate, discussion. Notice the metal tips on the fingers of his left hand, intended to make hand gestures more visible. Bhima
In terms of costume and makeup, I cannot distinguish Bhima from Arjunan the archer, whom I saw in the last performance (see: An Introduction to Kathakali). A Loving Couple
Bhima and Panchali are delightfully affectionate with each other. Hanuman in the Forest
Meanwhile, Hanuman is in the forest, preparing to meditate. Hanuman is Angry
Angry at being disturbed, Hanuman disguises himself as an old monkey, and takes Bhima on. Bhima in Collapse
Upon learning Hanuman’s identity, Bhima collapses. Hanuman and Bhima
The half-brothers come to agreement … The Old Monkey
… and Hanuman sends Bhima on his way. And so, the show winds up – the short duration belying the hours of nightly preparation, and the years of practice that go into learning the artform in the first place.
 The relative cool and quiet of the the Fort Kochi street outside is a welcome relief from the heat and noise in the small theatre.
For, as much as I love it, I’m glad when it’s over!
Photos: 01February2023
Posted in Dance,India,TravelTags: culture,dance,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,India,Kathakali,Kerala,people,performance,performers,portrait,portraits,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Taaw Tldáaw – Tow Hill
The story of the land here on Haida Gwaii, an archipelago off Canada’s west coast, is in the rock formations. The local story of Taaw Tldáaw tells of bitterness and rivalry between two (non-human) brothers. Modern geologists talk about an isolated volcanic plug that solidified about two million years ago. I don’t really understand either story – but I marvel at the landscape. There is magic in the rocks and trees of Haida Gwaii in Canada’s British Columbia (BC).
The people of the Haida Nation have lived here for at least 13,000 years – although ninety percent of the population died in the 1800s from smallpox, thanks to the first European contact in 1774. The islands were important during the maritime fur trade era of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, and came under British colonial rule in 1851. They were part of Canada when I went to school (many years later!), and were still known by their British name: the Queen Charlotte Islands.
Today, about half the population of 4500 people has Haida heritage. Indigenous place names have been restored, and the traditional stories about the landscape are being recovered and signposted.
Haida Gwaii had an almost mythical quality in my imagination, and I had been wanting to visit for a long time. Once I finally got there – three years ago now – I explored as much of the region as I could with a map and a rental car.
After a long days of travel and limbo, I spent my first full day on Graham Island – the largest island in the Haida Gwaii group – close to my base in the village of Daajing Giids (formerly known as Queen Charlotte). I took a short walk around Spirit Lake (see: Welcome to Haida Gwaii) to get a feel for the place.
On the second day, I drove north across the island to the village of Masset for lunch, and then into Naikoon Provincial Park for a short – but steep – walk up Taaw Tldáaw – Tow Hill.
Join me.
To the Water
Just 15 minutes out of my base at Daajing Giids, I stopped at the Balance Rock car park. The beach is a short walk through the woods. Rocky Beach
In the last ice age, glaciers sculpted this landscape. Boulders Left Behind
Here, along the coast, those glaciers left trails of boulders behind when they retreated. Balance Rock
This famous boulder has stood here since then, resisting even the most powerful Haida Gwaii storms, with their thundering waves and high winds. A Natural Wonder
The Balance Rock’s centre of gravity is exactly over the point of contact with the underlying rock, effectively gluing it to its base and making it immoveable. Morris White Pole in the Woods
Although they are often all referred to as ‘totem poles’, these ubiquitous examples of Haida art and skill are more often clan or memorial poles. The stylised creatures carved and painted on the red cedar poles tell stories of a person, a clan, or a particular event. This memorial pole, located in Old Massett, was carved and raised in 1999 by well-known Indigenous artist Christian White in honour of his father. Old Massett Street Sign Sarah’s Haida Arts and Jewellery
The K’aadsnee Shark House pole stands in front of a store full of wonderful arts: carvings in argillite and wood, Indigenous weaving, and precious jewellery – all crafted by artists of Haida ancestry. The pole was carved by internationally acclaimed Haida artist Reg Davidson in 1986. Pole at St.John’s Anglican Church
Carved and raised in 1969 by Robert Davidson, a leading figure in the renaissance of Haida art and culture, this was the first contemporary pole in Old Massett. Driving Into The Woods
As I leave Massett behind and drive into Naikoon Provincial Park, I find myself on an unsealed road. At least it is well groomed! (iPhone12Pro) Tall Trees in Silhouette
The park is tidy, with two vehicle-accessible campgrounds and scattered picnic tables and outhouse toilets. (iPhone12Pro) Totems at the Hiellen Village Longhouses
Modern longhouses built in traditional style are available to those who want to camp in more comfort – for a fee payable to the Old Massett Village Council, who own and operate the site. Trees in the Forest
I set off on the path through the coastal temperate rainforest. Textures : Tree Bark and Moss Salal – Gaultheria Shallon Mouth of the Hiellen River
The first section of the walk to Tow Hill is along the Blowhole Trail, with views over the river. Accessible Pathway
The Blowhole Trail is a wheelchair accessible boardwalk running for just under a kilometre (0.6 mile). Oldgrowth Specklebelly Lichen – Pseudocyphellaria Rainierensis
Mosses and lichens thrive in the shady forest. The Shores of McIntyre Bay
The path comes out onto McIntyre Bay; the waters of Dixon Entrance beyond form the disputed boundary with Alaska, just 80 km (50 miles) away. Tow Hill – Taaw Tldáaw
The mythical Taaw, for whom this magnificent basalt plug is named, found the Hiellen River in his travels. He liked it here, and decided to stay. Rocky Tidepools
Meanwhile Taaw’s older brother sent a whale and large bird to chase after him. Taaw turned them both into stone, creating this blowhole. The sea was quiet and the tides were wrong while I was there: the whale was not spouting any water. Wooden Stairs
The whole circuit up Tow Hill and back to the car park is meant to be just 2.3 km (1.4 mi); somehow I clocked up a lot more than that! This section is obviously not wheelchair-friendly – and it got steeper around the next bend. AllTrails considers the track a moderately challenging route. Giant Stump Light in the Ferns
Several types of ferns grow here – it think this is a Dryopteris expansa, also known as the spreading wood fern. How Old?
I know you can measure the age of a tree by counting the rings, but how long would it take? Rose Point
From the top of Tow Hill, there are views northeast to Rose Spit, which is where the Haida people are said to originate. That is where the Raven, one of the most powerful creatures in Haida mythology, heard noises coming from a clamshell. He found many tiny little creatures hiding inside. Because he was feeling lonely, he persuaded the beings to emerge from under the shell and they became the first people. Yakan Point
The view southeast is to Yakan Point, just east of Agate Beach. Rain on the Rocks
After finishing my walk, I drove the short distance back to Agate Beach. The stones and pebbles here have been smoothed by many years of exposure to the west coast winds and powerful oceans. I didn’t find any agate, but I did like the colours – especially as the rain started. (iPhone12Pro) Same Rock – Different Light
Arriving back near the south end of Graham Island later in the day, I stopped again at Balance Rock and marvelled at how different it looked in the clear, early evening light. A bit of driving across the island; a bit of walking through the totems, the trees, and the stones;
… and, a whole lot of myths and stories.
Just another day on this beautiful archipelago.
Until next time …
Photos: 11June2022
Posted in Canada,Nature,TravelTags: Canada,Haida Gwaii,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
The Face of the Future
Fourteen-year-old Torin Peat, who was the winner of the 2025 Byron Bay Bluesfest Grommets (under-18) Busking Competition, plays his original song, Horseback Blues. I’m not the first to say it, but music crosses boundaries: the boundaries of time and place.
One of the things I always loved about the annual Easter long weekend Byron Bay Bluesfest music festival was the cross-section of ages, styles, and origins, of the performers – and of the audience members. The family-friendly event always billed itself as a collection of ‘Blues and Roots’ music, but in reality, its reach was pretty broad.
With three to four stages playing at any one time across the four days, there was a lot of music to choose from this year. My sampling ranged from the youngest performer, High School student Torin Peat playing blues standards and his original tune, to the old rock-boogie masters George Thorogood & The Destroyers playing the soundtrack of my youth.
As much as I enjoy the music, I love getting close enough to the stages to get portraits of the artists. That was even more difficult than usual this year: the tents felt more tightly packed than ever and the fenced-off areas for the VIP ticket-holders and for the sound equipment seemed to take more space than before.
Still, I got a few pictures that I’m happy enough to share.
Passing the Baton
American singer-songwriter Marc Broussard is an example of passing down traditions: this funky bayou-soul artist is the son of acclaimed Louisiana Hall of Fame guitarist Ted Broussard. Hands Across the Water
Helping Marc Broussard out on keyboard and hammond organ, Australian musician Clayton Doley keeps the audience moving. Behind the Scenes
Large portions of the tents are gated off for the sound technicians. (iPhone15Pro) In a Crowded Tent
Either I’ve got shorter, or the rest of the audience has grown taller! Once I work my way around the sound booth, I get a somewhat better view of American blues guitarist and singer Christone “Kingfish” Ingram. Razor Wire and Flags
The walk from the carpark into the festival grounds felt longer each day – but we had beautiful weather. (iPhone15Pro) An International Experience
I started my third day with the Clarence Bekker Band in the Crossroads Tent. This joyful group includes musicians from all over. CB Milton
Also known as Clarence Bekker, CB Milton is a Dutch musician from Suriname – currently based in Barcelona. He has had a number of chart singles, alone and with the international Playing for Change band. Channelling Jerry Lee Lewis
Joining the the Clarence Bekker Band was Eric Stang, keyboardist, bassist, singer, actor, and music producer from Chicago. He recently had a successful run as Jerry Lee Lewis off-Broadway in the Tony Award-winning musical Million Dollar Quartet. Francisco ‘el Rubio’ Guisado
Barcelona-based Spanish guitarist ‘el Rubio’ is a key part of Clarence Bekker’s band. Borrowed Drums
This one was a surprise! I’m not sure if I can count the number of times I’ve seen Australian Dave Fester on the drums with different line-ups over the years (eg: Weekly Wanders+Dave Fester). Buckle In!
The high-octane energy brought to the stage by guitarist Kane Dennelly, drummer Jeremy Berg, and double bassist John Gwilliam from 19-Twenty needs to be seen to be believed! Tent Filling
The light is falling under an autumn sky outside, and the tents are filling up further. As the evening draws on, those passageways disappear entirely. Sound the Horns
The orchestra covers the stage with people … The Melbourne Ska Orchestra
… and fill the tent with joyful, bouncy sound. Hands in the Air
The last time I saw the Australian multi-instrumentalist Xavier Rudd, his song Follow the Sun had only just recently been released. Then, he was playing alone as a one-man-band. On the Big Screen
This year, Xavier’s beautiful set included backup musicians, including Lisa Purmodh on bass. Singing in the Dark
Another popular Australian singer-songwriter, Vance Joy, took to the Crossroads stage next. With backup help, he performed his crowd-pleasing boppy blend of folk and pop. Neil Finn
The last band on stage for the night was the current iteration of Crowded House, fronted by Neil Finn, the youngest of the musically talented Finn brothers from New Zealand. On the Jambalaya Stage
We arrived early on Sunday, the final day of the festival. My first stop was the Jambalaya tent, where young Torin Peat seemed dwarfed by the stage. Torin Peat
But, the fourteen-year-old winner of the 2025 Byron Bay Bluesfest grommets (under-18) busking competition more than held his own. Under Lights in Delta
I wasn’t going to miss the delightful Kim Churchill – a popular Australian folk, rock, and blues singer, songwriter, and musician. Kim Churchill on Guitar
I love Kim’s stories about his early busking days. Lech Wierzynski
The California Honeydrops are irresistable with their New Orleans style laid over their roots, blues, R&B, and soul music. I’ve shared their track When it Was Wrong before: (Click for When it was Wrong by the California Honeydrops)
Popcorn Sky
As the afternoon turned to evening, the tents filled up even further. We sat outside the Crossroads tent (no hope of getting in!) and caught some of the sounds. Fortunately, there was nothing on later that we desperately wanted to see; we headed back to the car and went home early. (iPhone15Pro) Last year, they advertised that the four-day 2025 event would be the last. I suspect we weren’t the only ones who bought tickets for that reason.
And, I think that was why the whole event was so overcrowded.
I am glad that the festival will be back next year – but I won’t be.
I’ll have to find my music some other way.
Until next time …
Photos: 18-20April2025
Posted in Australia,Byron Bay Bluesfest,Music,PortraitsTags: Australia,Byron Bay Bluesfest,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,music,musician,performance,performers,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
A Bird of Paradise
Youngsters in their traditional costumes are ready to perform for us in the remote and tiny village of Kwatisore on Cenderawasih Bay in Papua, Indonesia. It was a trip I’d been anticipating for a long time: an ocean voyage on a small ship to visit remote West Papuan villages and to snorkel in the marine-rich waters around Raja Ampat and the Spice Islands. The chance to swim with giant whale sharks was what had sold me on this particular itinerary.
We were aboard an Australian ship, the Coral Geographer, and had been in Indonesian waters for five days. After leaving Sorong, we sailed clockwise around the Vogelkop, or Bird’s Head, of New Guinea. We stopped at Mansinam Island to snorkel amid colourful coral and small fish and to visit the village itself (see: Welcome to West Papua).
Unfortunately, on leaving Mansinam Island it became apparent that our ship was not making good headway: one of the azipods that provides the vessel’s propulsion was not working. As a consequence, we had an extra sea day, and arrived late into Cenderawasih Bay.
Cenderawasih (“Bird of Paradise”) Bay is the large body of water that sits between the Bird’s Head and the rest of New Guinea. It is bordered by the Indonesian provinces of West Papua to the west and Papua to the east. Kwatisore Bay is a small part of the larger bay, near where the two provinces meet. It is known for consistently high sightings of whale sharks.
Once we finally arrived, we did get our whale shark experience, and a visit to the little village of Kwatisore – albeit a day late.
We were lucky!
Cenderawasih Bay National Park is Indonesia’s largest marine park, and permits are required by groups wishing to snorkel with the huge fish. Our permit window had not yet expired when we arrived, and the fishermen operating the bagan – the floating fishing platform – we were aiming for, were still willing to chum the water. By prior arrangement, fishermen in the bay throw small bits of food into the water (chumming) to make sightings of whale sharks even more reliable.
Growing up to 18.8 m (61.7 ft), whale sharks (Rhincodon typus) are the largest known extant fish species. As a slow-moving, filter-feeding carpet shark, they pose no risk to divers or snorkelers. Swimming amongst these giant creatures was a magical experience.
After our snorkel, we went ashore in the little village of Kwatisore. Following tribal tradition, before entering the village itself we all had to step on a paddle to avoid transporting any bad spirits with us. Once on the village green, we were treated to a musical welcome and a performance of the Birds of Paradise dance, in which a hunter shoots one of those magnificent birds.
Following the performance, I broke away from the larger group to wander around the tiny village. Do join me!
The Bagan
Fishing and tourism in Cenderawasih Bay National Park is regulated, and official permits have to be negotiated ahead of time. Fortunately, as I was part of a group, this wasn’t my problem! The floating fishing platform we snorkeled around was ready and waiting for us. (iPhone15Pro) Whale Shark – Rhincodon Typus
In preparation for this trip, I had bought a waterproof silicone phone cover. It kept my phone dry; unfortunately, it also rendered the phone pretty unresponsive to my commands! That – plus the chum in the water – led to focussing issues. (iPhone15Pro) Whale Shark Below
Snorkeling with these giant creatures – about the size of a large bus – was an experience I won’t soon forget! (iPhone15Pro) Kampung Akudiomi Waterfront
After a quick shower, we were shuttled to the nearby village for a visit. There is not much clear land here! Dense jungle rises up steeply behind the houses. Kampung Akudiomi Housing
Many of the simple wooden houses are colourfully painted. Welcome Music
All across the island of New Guinea, face paint and feathers feature hugely in the traditional dress. Blowing the Conch Musicians Youngster
I love the clear, unaffected gaze this youngster gave me as I lifted the camera. Young Dancer Portrait of a Bird
A school boy sports his bird of paradise costume with pride. Young Boys
The locals are as fascinated by us as we are by them! Dancing Birds
Birds of paradise mate for life; the boys and girls dancing here are paired off. Birds of Paradise A Hunter in Pursuit
Oh no! Here comes a local hunter!
Looking at all the feathers used in traditional Papuan costumes, I’m always amazed that there are any birds of paradise left on the island. The Hunter and his Bird
The female bird lies dead, the male bird is left to pine, and the hunter pays his respects to the beautiful creature he has killed. A Cross on the Door
Christian missionaries made huge inroads into the communities of Papua and West Papua; some version of Christianity is common in these tiny villages. Wooden House
There is some electricity, but houses are simple here. Breadfruit – Artocarpus Altilis
The local food supply quite literally grows on trees … Wandering Fowl
… or scratches around under foot. Shopkeeper and his Shop
Naturally, there is also a small convenience store. Tourists in the Mainstreet Our Ship on the Horizon
Life here is wedged between the forest and the sea. Roofer
Meanwhile, there are new houses being built. And yes, he is in bare feet. After the Performance
When I made my way back to the village green, the performers were still gathered around. Smiling Bird Hunter Ukulele Officials
I made a point of saying hello the the government officials who had travelled from the local administrative offices to oversee our visit. They were happy to be photographed in their uniforms. Evening Skies
We returned to our ship – and to the unwelcome news that, because of our engine difficulties, we were headed back to Sorong instead of to the atolls of Raja Ampat. But, as day turned to evening, we had food, drink, and wonderful skies over the Taman Nasional Teluk Cenderawasih – Cenderawasih Bay National Park. (iPhone15Pro) We might have lost a part of our itinerary, but we were safe and well-fed. I went to sleep dreaming of those beautiful gentle marine giants.
 Until next time,
Safe Sailing!
Pictures: 24March2025
Posted in Indonesia,Portraits,TravelTags: architecture,dance,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,housing,Indonesia,marine park,National Park,New Guinea,people,performance,travel,Travel Blog,under water,Ursula Wall,West Papua,whale shark
Hussy Hicks and Friends
On the tiny outdoor Busking Stage at the Australia’s Byron Bay Bluesfest, the irrepressible Hussy Hicks – with help from friends (l-r) guitarist Minnie Marks, rapper Triple Nip, singer Chris E Thomas, and harp player Greg Parker – bring us to tears with their powerhouse performance of Wilsons River Blues/Washed Away (sound clip below); just one example of the cathartic power of music. Music can serve to both describe our pain and lift us out of it.
For me, the highlights of this year’s annual Easter long weekend Byron Bay Bluesfest were the “story artists”: those musicians whose performances feel personal, and for whom the lyrics are as important as the music.
Hussy Hicks, whom I’ve been watching for many years (eg: Wanders + Hussy Hicks), are a dynamic and compelling duo, comprising the charismatic vocalist and instrumentalist Leesa Gentz and the blistering guitarist Julz Parker. They are often (and currently) backed by Ali Foster on drums and Tracy Stephens on bass. Classed as folk, they are so much more than that: straddling blues, country, rock, and roots. Their songs tell stories – political and personal – and their more popular anthems (eg: Pirate Flag) are requested by their passionate followers every time they perform.
During the horrific 2022 floods around their studio in Lismore in northern New South Wales, Australia, the band lost all their recording equipment, including microphones, pre-amps, and studio monitors (see: ABC News Hussy Hicks). They managed to help a neighbour, before all being rescued by boat. Some of the trauma around this period – and the healing power of community that helped them through it – is written into the songs Wilsons River Blues/Washed Away. Their performance of this, with guitarist Minnie Marks, rapper Triple Nip, singer Chris E Thomas, and Julz’ dad, harp player Greg Parker, on the tiny outdoor Busking Stage was for me the pinnacle of this year’s four day festival.
And, I was lucky to catch it! Fortunately, I was alerted to their performance by the App: the printed program didn’t include the Busking Stage. Naturally, I had already made a point of scheduling their other performances into my plan.
Another example of singing through the pain came from Allison Russell, a Grammy-award winning singer-songwriter (Eve Was Black) and multi-instrumentalist from Canada. She references her traumatic personal childhood experiences in the music she delivers with sweetness and power. She was new to me: I only caught a little of her set in Delta Tent on Day 2 of the festival, and made a point of marking her into my diary for the following day.
Join me for some sound-stories in pictures:
Friday Morning
We were so lucky this year: we had another beautiful, blue-sky, day as we entered the grounds early on the second day. Melody and Bass
The Chicago based blues-guitarist singer-songwriter is a formidable cross between Tina Turner and Jimi Hendrix, with a dash of Prince and Chuck Berry. Camera Man in Mojo Tent In The Crossroads
Australian blues musician Ash Grunwald is another story-teller – one whose focus is the protection of the environment and the natural world around us. That Smile!
I’ve enjoyed Ash before – but it’s been a long time (see: The Local Lineup). His music, his smile, and his comfortable interaction with the audience and his guest performers – his young daughter, and performer Kim Churchill, who I also first saw back in 2016 – reminded me why I loved his performances. Fanny Lumsden
Next up in the Crossroads was Australian country performer Edwina Margaret Lumsden, professionally known as Fanny. In her pure, sweet voice, she told stories about the hardships and joys of life in the farming communities of remote NSW. Portrait of Fanny
Her energy was amazing! In the Delta Tent
On the strength of the write-up in the Bluesfest program, I ducked across to catch a bit of Allison Russell. Allison Russell
She and her Rainbow Coalition Band blew me away with deceptively sweet and melodic stories of trauma and survival. Telling her Own Stories
Allison Russell has recorded a number of albums with previous bands, including songs co-written with her with now-husband Jeremy Lindsay (JT Nero) as part of Birds of Chicago. On the Saturday, I enjoyed her full set in Crossroads. Close-Up of Allison Russell On the Busking Stage
It’s a clear night and getting cool – but Hussy Hicks warm the crowd up quickly. (iPhone15Pro) Chris E Thomas with Hussy Hicks
One of the great joys of festivals is the cross-pollination that happens. Performers mix and match and join in with each other. Leesa Gentz
The next day in the Delta Tent, Leesa lets loose with her soaring vocals. Julz Parker
Julz is an electrifying award-winning guitarist … Leesa Gentz
… and Leesa delivers soaring vocals. Greg Parker
Julz’ dad Greg is often invited to play his harp, or add vocals. Chris E Thomas
Australian singer-songwriter Chris E Thomas adds her voice to Hussy Hick’s Ain’t it a Shame. Hussy Hicks in Delta
On the Sunday, I have one last opportunity to enjoy my favourite band. Leesa Gentz and her Rain Shaker Leesa and Julz
Leesa and Julz play off each other: I suspect that this chemistry is part of why they go from strength to strength. Meeting the Fans
In the old days, there was a merchandise tent, where you could actually check out the offerings, and a signing tent where selected bands meet with fans. When I asked, I was told: “We haven’t done that for years!” But, Hussy Hicks made the effort to come out and meet people – and I got my latest CD signed. (iPhone15Pro) Some musicians just connect.
Here’s to the stories …
… and the music!
Pictures: 18April2025
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