.jpg) A Tender at the Beach
One of our two excursion tenders, Xplorer One, approaches the beach, on the uninhabited island of Wayag (Wajag) in Raja Ampat, Southwest Papua province, Indonesia. We were in the doldrums.
Quite literally. For three days, we chugged along slowly, never much more than a few degrees off the equator. Our last stop in ‘civilization’ had been in the village of Kwatisore on Cenderawasih Bay (see: Kwatisore Bay and Village).
Fortunately, unlike the ancient mariners of poems, tales, and old history books, we were not reliant on wind for our propulsion in these chancy tropical waters.
Unfortunately, our vessel, the Australian-registered Coral Geographer, had experienced a serious malfunction on day three of what was to be a 19-day voyage through the Spice Islands and Raja Ampat in Indonesia’s westernmost Papua provinces. Our progress was slow, and our direction had had to be adjusted in order to return to our starting point of Sorong to collect parts and a specialist technician. To complicate matters further, it was Ramadan in a predominantly Muslim country.
But, unlike the intrepid sailors from Portugal, Holland, and England who braved these waters in wooden sailboats in the 16th and 17th in search of precious spices, we were at no risk of scurvy or starvation, and at very little risk of warfare (for a history of the Spice Wars, see: Nathaniel’s Nutmeg).
And, we were in some of the most beautiful waters in the world: dotted with islands and teeming with jagged reefs – reefs that had made life so treacherous for those early sailors, but which supplied us with snorkel and dive opportunities a-plenty.
I had bought myself a waterproof silicone phone cover especially for this trip. While it kept my phone dry during trips in the small open boats, it also rendered the buttons pretty unresponsive to my commands. On these particular days, I managed no underwater-shots worth keeping. So, to give you a taste of the remarkable diversity, I’ve included a couple of shots taken by other people who had proper underwater equipment.
Do join me in the middle of nowhere, somewhere along the equator.
.jpg) Island in Cenderawasih Bay
Slowly, our ship pulls out of Cenderawasih Bay to cruise back around Papua’s Bird’s Head Peninsula. Tropical Islands of varying sizes are everywhere. (iPhone15Pro) .png) NMI : Reef around Pulau Manim
We had a morning snorkel on the reef around the tiny island of Manim. The corals are wildly colourful and varied. My photos were all blurry, so I’ve borrowed this one from guest lecturer Dr Jeremy Robertson.  White Sands and Turquoise Waters
After lunch on our ship, we head out again on the tenders: this time for a beach landing on Pulau Manim. The colours are incredible! (iPhone15Pro) Jungle Behind the Beach
The beach is narrow; a few steps from the water’s edge, I walk into a thriving, lush rainforest environment. (iPhone15Pro) Buttress Roots
Spreading buttress roots act as stabilizers for the tall trees in the unstable sandy ground. (iPhone15Pro) Ship on the Horizon
Our ship is anchored out in deeper waters offshore. (iPhone15Pro) Trees over the Shoreline
Nothing says ‘tropics’ to me like screw pines (Pandanus tectorius) and mangroves leaning out over a white beach and crystal-clear waters. (iPhone15Pro) Islands through the Window
Two days later, we were finally back over the top of the Bird’s Head Peninsula (Doberai Peninsula) and into the fabled Kepulauan Raja Ampat – the Four Kings Archipelago. (iPhone15Pro) NMI : Finding Nemo
We went for a morning snorkel in what is (rightly!) billed as an area of sea containing the richest marine biodiversity on earth. The sights and colours were extraordinarily vibrant and varied – but my photos were pretty dull and I’ve borrowed this one from staff-member Sara. Schooner
After lunch back on board, we set off again for a cruise through the beautiful National Park waters around the island of Wayag (Wajag). We are not the only ones here, but it is remarkably quiet. In the Wayag Archipelago
Geographically, these remarkable karst islands straddle three major tectonic plates: the Sahul (Australasian), Sunda, and Eurasian plates. Emerald Waters
The colours and textures are incredible! Tiny Orchids on the Karst Cliffs
These islands sit in Wallacea, that self-contained biogeographical region with a unique mix of Asian and Australian flora and fauna. Karst Islands
Tectonic and volcanic activity has led to the uplift of the limestone islands, and karstification (erosion by slightly acidic rainwater) has carved them into an enormous variety of shapes . Impossible Cliffs
Every island is different! It is amazing how the tropical growth clings to the steep sides. Islands in our Wake
We are surrounded by countless uninhabited outcrops. The colours change with every shifting cloud and shadow. Boats and Islands on the Horizon
We land on a small, sandy beach; rather than go snorkelling again, I take a kayak out for a paddle. (iPhone15Pro) Wild Orchids on the Cliff
From the kayak, I can get closer to the sharp and rugged cliffs. (iPhone15Pro) Tandem Kayak
Others take their turns in the kayak on the pristine waters. Beach on an Uninhabited Island
Even with most of our ship-load of passengers ashore, the island feels almost deserted. Last Light
The afternoon draws to a close, and we make our way back to our ship. Sunset over the Wayag Archipelago Back to the Ship
Our vessel is ready and waiting – dinner won’t be long! Selfie in a Sunset Sky
Sundown is fast in the tropics – blink and you’ll miss it! (iPhone15Pro) Truly, a beautiful region.
And made even better by the almost total lack of infrastructure or development.
Of course, we were carrying plenty of our own food and drink – and so were cruising these magical waters in absolute comfort.
Albeit, very slowly!
Photos: 25and27March2025
Posted in Indonesia,Nature,TravelTags: Indonesia,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,Southwest Papua,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,West Papua
In the Courtyard of the Shah-e-Hamadan Masjid
Reputedly sitting on the site of Kashmir’s oldest mosque, this distinctively spired iteration in the Old City of Srinagar was built in the 1730s. Constructed without any nails, it showcases the age-old Kashmiri craft of paper-mache decoration and the intricately-faceted wood-panelling known as khatamband. Kashmir.
That fabled landscape of snow-capped mountains and lush valleys – once a princely state under the British Raj – has long been on my wish list.
Today, portions of the overall region are administered by China, India, and Pakistan, with the actual boundaries frequently in dispute. This often renders the area unsafe for tourists. As recently as April of this year, 26 people were killed in a popular tourist spot within the Indian-administered region, with Pakistani-nationals being blamed (see: BBC News: Pahalgam attackers).
I got lucky!
Back during a period of relative calm, I managed to find a small-group photography tour that was travelling to the region. We had arrived in Srinagar, the largest city and summer capital of the Indian-administered union territory of Jammu and Kashmir, the day before, and were staying in well-appointed houseboats on Dal Lake (see: Water, Dreams, and Woodwork).
The first stop on our first full day in the Old City of Srinagar was at the Khanqah-e-Moula, also known as – among other things and spellings – Shah-e-Hamadan Masjid and Khanqah. A Sunni mosque, it was originally commissioned by Sultan Sikandar Butshikan in 1395 in memory of the Islamic preacher Mir Sayyid (Syed) Ali Hamadani. Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani (c. 1314–1384) was a Persian Sufi saint, scholar, poet, and missionary who is credited with spreading Islam across Kashmir and Central Asia. He also introduced Persian handicrafts to the region, laying the foundation for Kashmir’s carpet and textile industry.
The original building was destroyed by a fire in 1480, so what we see today mostly dates to 1731 – having been rebuilt again after yet another fire. Called Srinagar’s most beautiful mosque, it was reconstructed in the traditional manner, without any nails. All the surfaces, inside and out, are covered in papier-mâché (paper mache) reliefs and khatamband, elaborately intricate hand-crafted wooden pieces held together purely by their joinery – and all are wonderfully painted in colourful patterns.
As Non-Muslim visitors, we weren’t allowed into the building. We were permitted to peek through the front door and windows at the lavish interior. And, we could walk around the outside, appreciating the impressively complicated decorations.
Beyond the old wooden mosque, everyday life continues in the old city streets of Srinagar.
Come for a walk with me!
Still Life Found : Flowers on a Shikara
Early in the morning, one of Dal Lake’s distinctive wooden boats is waiting at our wharf, loaded with locally-grown flowers for sale. (iPhone12Pro) A Lotus and a Kashmir Lily
The flower-seller generously gave me a couple of gorgeous blooms. (iPhone12Pro) Textured and Peeling Wood
Taxi shakiras collect us, and we are transported over the waters, through the warren of wooden houseboats, and to the shores of the city itself. A Butcher and his Hookah
As we walk towards the Khanqah Shah-i-Hamadan Muslim Pilgrim Hall, we pass what can only be called very informal markets! Outside the Shah-e-Hamadan Masjid
The old city streets aren’t particularly busy, but there is a mix of foot traffic and two- three- and four wheeled vehicles. Woman in White
Outside the mosque, old women sell bags of pigeon-food. Man outside the Mosque Pigeons in the Courtyard
In Islam, pigeons are associated with peace and safety. Feeding birds – and other animals – is considered sadaqah: a voluntary act of charity and kindness that pleases God and benefits others. Water Break in the Mosque
Some work is being being done in the prayer hall; one of the workers lets me make his picture as he takes a break. (iPhone12Pro) Papier-Mâché Colour and Khatamband Pattern
Intricate woodwork designs and vibrant papier-mâché colours are everywhere. Door Pull Inside the Shah-e-Hamadan Mosque
The mosque interior is ornate and elaborately patterned. Four solid wooden pillars nearly 7m (23 ft) in height support the ceiling. Each is decorated with painted wooden chips arranged in a fishbone pattern, carved lotus motifs at the base, and leaf designs in the capitals. (iPhone12Pro) Woman with Bird Food
Many of the visitors to the mosque take time to feed the pigeons. Decorated Exterior
These patterns reminded me of the ceramic tiles on the buildings in old Portuguese streets – but like the rest of the building, it is all painted wood and papier-mâché! Ladies’ Entrance
At the back of the building, we find the women’s entrance. It is much smaller than the main front door – but no less decorated. Over the Jhelum River
The mosque backs onto the main river through Srinagar; through the trees, we can just see the multi-story buildings on the other bank. A Patch of Light A Couple on the Steps
Back in the front courtyard, I meet a local couple who have come to feed the birds. Tailor in his Shop
Outside the mosque, in the streets of Old Srinagar … In the Narrow Streets
… the bustle of everyday life continues. Tuk Tuk Corner Man on a Stoop
I don’t see a lot of women in the street, but most of the men are happy to be photographed. The Public Tap
Not all businesses or homes are connected to to piped water, so public water taps are critically important. Local Man Food Shop
In India, you are never far from freshly cooked food … Man in a Food Shop
… and a welcoming smile – even when you are not buying anything. Pigeons Overhead
Everywhere you look, there is colour and life! Our walk through the ancient streets continued, through bustling markets and to the next old mosque.
More about that some other time!
 Until then,
Happy Wandering!
Pictures: 11September2023
Posted in Architecture,India,TravelTags: architecture,arts and crafts,blog,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,India,islam,islamic,Kashmir,people,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Lines and Curves
The boardwalk along the edge of Lake Curalo is a stone’s-throw from my front door, and is the main reason we bought our “Sea Change” house where we did. (08May2021) It is easy to take one’s own backyard a bit for granted!
It is winter in Australia at the moment – a time when I’m often in the Northern Hemisphere looking for better weather. Truth be told, though, winter in my corner of the world – in Eden on the temperate Far-South Coast of New South Wales – is neither that long nor that harsh. When I’m not travelling, I spend a lot of time on my balcony, just letting the sound of the birds wash over me, feeling the air, and watching the light on the water.
I do make a point of going for a short walk most days: tumbling out of my front door, onto the estuary, and turning right along the boardwalk (see: A Little Slice of Paradise), or left towards the pathway.
While house-cleaning old photo-files, I’ve found some “backyard” pictures: photos from a late-autumn and early-winter past, when – thanks to ongoing Covid19 lockdowns – overseas travel was not possible.
When I’m at home, my cameras tend to sit in their case, waiting for the next trip. But, I’ve learned to love my iPhones. As they say: the best camera is the one you have with you! So, these are all iPhone shots. For many years, I’ve used Instagram as a form of sketch pad: trying to “see” and post something at least daily: always in the square format that used to be the requirement on that platform.
Re-editing photos into landscape format when I originally envisaged them as squares can be a challenge, but I think these work well enough to share with you.
Join me for some quiet cooler-weather scenes in my immediate neighbourhood.
The Garden Bench
If you want to travel, it pays to keep the yard as low-maintenance as possible! Native plants attract birds and bees, and mostly look after themselves. (08May2021) Lake Curalo Reflections
Technically an ICOLL – an Intermittently Closed and Open Lake or Lagoon – Lake Curalo is a brackish body of estuarine water that is tidal, and sometimes completely open to the Pacific Ocean. Surrounded by tea trees (melaleucas) and tall gum trees including woollybutts (Eucalyptus longifolia), it is home to a large population of waterbirds. (08May2021) Picnic Bench
Every so often, the local council makes some improvements to the the walkway along the lake. There are now a few spots to stop and take in the surrounds. (09May2021) Back on the Boardwalk
Every day, the light is different. (10May2021) Low Tide on the Estuary
Spoonbills and ibises are regular visitors to the mudflats at low tide. (18May2021) Waterbirds on the Estuary
Small numbers of egrets and herons make their homes on the lake, as do large numbers of black swans and Australian pelicans. Gulls and terns stop by regularly. (18May2021) Colourful Grasses
(22May2021) Swans on the Estuary
Although a large number of black swans (Cygnus atratus) live here, they often hide in the tributaries. Only once have I seen them with their cygnets. (22May2021) Full Moon Over Twofold Bay
Eden is a very small place: it is only a ten minute drive to the lookout on the hill on the other side of town. (25May2021) Full Moon Over the Estuary
Aside from the powerlines in my way, I have a good view of the moonrise from my balcony. (26May2021) Eastern Grey Kangaroos – Macropus Giganteus
Although there are many resident ‘roos in Eden, these are on the Panboola Wetlands in the next town over – a twenty minute drive away. (27May2021) Madagascar Fireweed – Senecio Madagascariensis
Although the flowers are pretty, this invasive plant is toxic to livestock. I can’t go for a walk without pulling it out if I see it! (30May2021) A Curve in the Path
We get a fair bit of rain in autumn and winter – but few frosts – so things stay nice and green. (30May2021) The Impossible Brightness of Morning
The low-angled sun bounces off the water. (31May2021) Red Leaves
The leaves on my plum trees put on a colourful display in winter … Plum Leaves
… which is lucky really – as the trees never produce any plums! (03June2021) Fallen Trees
Tea-trees (melaleuca) have a short life-span, and regularly get blown over by strong winds. Palestine Creek is one of several tributaries into Lake Curalo. (06June2021) Even in the Rain!
(09June2021) A Curve at Low Tide
The mouth of the estuary is opened during times of very heavy rains to prevent flooding. (09June2021) A Bench on the Lake
(10June2021) Tugboat
Eden is very much a working harbour, with the two resident tug boats kept busy. (14June2021) Australian White Ibis – Threskiornis Molucca
I never know which birds will be around when I go out! (29June2021) In some ways, I take it for granted.
On the other hand, I give thanks every day as I feel the sun (or rain!) on my face, listen to the birds around me, and watch the ever-changing light on the water.
Who needs any more than that?
Photos (iPhone12Pro) : May-June2021.
Posted in Australia,Landscapes,TravelTags: Australia,birds,blog,landscape,nature,Photo Blog,travel,Ursula Wall,walk,waterbirds,waterscape,waterways
Mosque of Hassan II – Casablanca
The second largest functioning mosque in Africa sits on a 9-hectare (22-acre) complex overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Indoors and out, it can house 105,000 worshippers. Our small group was getting a limited early-morning guided-tour between prayers. It was still cool and dim when we loaded our suitcases onto a small bus: the pre-dawn light was too low for me to get much of an impression of Casablanca, that fabled North African city that lends its name to gin-joints, stories, and popular imagination.
I had arrived in the city early-evening the day before, coming off a train from Marrakech. Before that, I’d spent a few days walking in Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains (see: Over the Tizi Oudid). I barely had time for a quick shower before meeting the small group with whom I was going to be touring the rest of the country (Premium Morocco in Depth). The light was already falling when we set off for a traditional dinner in a charming restaurant nestled into an old fort.
Our one stop in Casablanca the next morning – once our bags were packed and stowed onto the bus for the trip to Meknes by way of Rabat – was at the massive Mosque of Hassan II. Built under the guidance of King Hassan II (r. 1961-1999), this huge complex – completed in 1993 – sits partly on land and partly over the sea.
I’ve visited a number of mosques over the years – particularly in India, Oman, and Türkiye – but in Morocco, non-Muslims are generally excluded. The Hassan II Mosque is the exception, allowing visitors outside of prayer times. We met with our guide on the expansive plaza around 8am, and set off to learn about the history and the architecture of this massive structure.
Religious Islamic art is typically characterized by the absence of figures, and by the extensive use of decorative calligraphy and abstract geometric and floral patterns. It was the strong geometrics: the lines, the curves, and the repeated patterns, that stood out for me in this particular mosque.
Come have a look.
The Courtyard
It’s a long walk from the street (Bd Sidi Mohammed Ben Abdallah) and across the courtyard in the 9-hectare (22-acre) complex to the mosque itself. Arches Everywhere
Repeated arches balance the 210-metre (690-foot) tall minaret, which was the tallest in the world when it was completed in 1993. Minaret on the Mosque
Moroccan minarets are historically square. This one is intricately decorated with a pattern in chrome and green and blue tiles – the colours of which are said to represent the surrounding sea and God above. Decorated Ceiling
Our first indoor stop was in the small museum, where there are many examples of the materials and techniques used by the 10,000 artists and craftsmen who participated in building and beautifying of the mosque. Ridged ceilings like this help baffle noise. Decorated Cornice
This type of woodwork – dating to the 9th century and typically made of cedar – involves carefully chiselled carving and detailed paintwork. Decorated Walls
Repeated patterns are everywhere. Note the decorative holes above head level which aid air circulation. More Arches Main Hall
The size of the main prayer hall defies comprehension: it has the capacity to accommodate 25,000 devotees. The floor is heated, and the massive roof high overhead is retractable, allowing for daytime sunlight and stars on a clear night. Speakers are hidden in the decorations on some of the columns. Carved Details Our Guide
We are given a brief introduction to the history of Islam in Morocco. (iPhone15Pro) Scalloped Arches
With the exception of some Italian white granite columns and the 56 glass chandeliers from Murano, Italy, all of the materials used in the construction of the mosque were sourced locally. Door Detail : Light Radiating from the Sun Like a Mace
Ornate candelabras – probably of oxidized copper or brass – hang all around. Lines and Curves and Pillars
The Wudu area, where the faithful perform their pre-prayer ablutions, is a symphony of curves. The hall is in the basement, and is accessed from outside the mosque. It houses a total of 600 taps scattered around the 45 marble fountains: which represent lotus flowers – but make me think of mushrooms. Intricate Sconce Cogs in the Works
Featuring traditional Moroccan motifs, many of the electrically-operated doors are made of titanium to withstand oceanic forces. Portrait of a Guide Outside the Entrance Doors The City and the Sea Beyond
The sky has lightened, and we can now see the beach and the city beyond. In the Courtyard – More Patterned Arches Fountain
Beautiful Arabesque mosaics decorate the 41 fountains around the courtyard. The Minaret against a Blue Sky
After an almost two-hour visit, we take one last look at the minaret and leave the Hassan II Mosque behind. (iPhone15Pro) 
Fascinating place.
I’ll have to return one day to get a sense of the city itself …
“Here’s looking at you, kid!”
Pictures: 14October2024
Posted in Africa,Architecture,Morocco,TravelTags: architecture,blog,Casablanca,environmental portrait,islam,islamic,Morocco,mosque,Photo Blog,Religious Practice,travel,Travel Blog,worship
Worth the Wait!
Everywhere you look in Fira, on Santorini, iconic white-walled and blue-domed Greek Orthodox churches stand against the blue skies and waters of the South Aegean Sea. I had waited a lifetime for this! It is just breathtakingly beautiful!
I couldn’t believe I had finally made it – made it to Santorini, the southernmost island in the Cyclades.
Santorini is the largest part of a circular archipelago surrounding the Santorini caldera in the South Aegean Sea, southeast of mainland Greece. This was the site of the Minoan eruption about 3,600 years ago, one of the largest volcanic explosions in recorded history. The eruption left a large water-filled caldera surrounded by volcanic-ash deposits hundreds of metres deep.
Some say this is the site of the lost civilisation of Atlantis.
Known for its beauty, Santorini’s primary industry is tourism, particularly in the summer months. It is frequently ranked the world’s top island by tourism magazines and travel sites. An estimated 2 million people visit every year.
I was lucky: I was visiting during the autumn shoulder season, and Covid19 restrictions had not long since ended, so the island was markedly less crowded than it can be.
I was on a small group tour: we had been in Naxos for a few days (see: Life in a Marble Village) and travelled the short distance from Chora, Naxos, to Santorini by fast ferry in the morning. Our accommodation on the island was in Firá.
Santorini’s official and historic name is Thira; this is where the capital town of Fira gets its name. It is only a 20-minute drive from the ferry terminal, but most of that is zig-zagging up the pumice cliffs that make up the 400 metres (1,312 feet) high caldera on the island’s western edge.
Once we dropped our bags, we set off on foot: wandering through the narrow white-walled streets packed with cafés, boutique hotels, and old domed Orthodox churches.
Join me:
Waiting for the Next Island
Our bags are packed, and we hurry up to wait in the Chora ferry port for our fast-ferry to Santorini. (iPhone12Pro) Scenes from a Bus : Passengers Piling onto a Santorini Ferry
As our bus winds its way up the steep side of the broken caldera, I get views back over the harbour. (iPhone12Pro) Mama Thira Tavern
Tourism is Santorini’s primary industry – but even tourist-focussed buildings conform to the traditional Cyclades charm. Dome on a Hill
There are white walls and blue domes everywhere I look. The Caldera
Fira is poised on the top of the steep wall of the caldera. Still Life Found : Boat on the Patio
Santorini is a relatively small island, with an area of approximately 73 square km (28 sq mi); the sea is central to life here. You Could Be Nowhere Else!
The three bells of the Church of the Ascension of the Blessed Virgin Mary stand against the cloudless autumn sky. (iPhone12Pro) Churches on the Hilltop
Can you count the churches in this picture? Arches and Stairs Life in the Caldera
The island has a hot semi-arid climate; the natural vegetation is be rugged! Keys to the Island? Clinging to the Cliff
The buildings looks precarious, and during a recent earthquake swarm in early February 2025, much of the population was evacuated from the island as a precautionary measure. Many of the buildings extend down into the pumice – creating well-insulated spaces that are cool in summer and warm in winter. Metropolitan Cathedral Church of Candlemas of The Lord
Streets and stairs wind and loop – leading to unexpected views. Church of St. John the Baptist
Unlike most of the other churches we see, which are Greek Orthodox, this one is Catholic. Neither I nor Google-translate can read the writing on the wall. Another Bell Tower The Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist
With every step, we get different views of beautiful old buildings. In the Narrow Laneways
The streets of Fira are lined with boutiques and cafes. Fresh Penne and Local Wine
Fabulous food is around every corner – and comes with a view. Buildings on the Ridge A White Dome
Unlike many Greek Orthodox churches, the Church of Agios Minas – built between 1537 and 1650 – features an impressive white dome that contrasts with the beautiful blue Aegean Sea it overlooks. View from our Balcony
Our accommodation was well-placed, with great views. Afternoon Sun
The sun drops over the still-busy waters of the Aegean Sea as my first day in Santorini draws to a close. Just magic!
I went sleep dreaming of blue domes and blue waters – and looking forward to another day on this beautiful island.
Until then …
Happy Wandering!
Pictures: 24September2022
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