Har Ki Pauri Every night on Har Ki Pauri – one of the most sacred ghats in Haridwar – the magnificent Ganga Aarti is performed.
The Ganges River, known more commonly as the Ganga Mata(Mother Ganges), is revered in Hindu worship and culture. More than just a river, she is the embodiment of a goddess whose purity cleanses one’s sins: bathing in her waters releases the faithful from samsara, the endless cycle of death and rebirth.
All along the banks of this long river, from the source at Gaumukh in the Himalaya, to the mouth on the Bay of Bengal, Hindu faithful seek to bathe in the waters to rid themselves of sins. They also pay their respects to the Mother, making offerings or pujas (ceremonial worship), and often carry water home again in copper pots for use in rituals. When loved ones are dying, it is customary to place a few drops of Ganga water in the mouth of the departing.
Some places along the river’s long banks have additional spiritual significance – and one of these is the ancient holy city of Haridwar. There, whole temples are devoted to the worship of the river/Goddess, and an aarti to her is performed twice a day – at sunrise and sunset.
An aarti (arti or arati) is a Hindu ritual employed in worship, often part of a puja, in which light is ritually waved in veneration of deities. This light – usually in the form of a flame – symbolically removes rātrī, or darkness. The evening Ganga Aarti at Har Ki Pauri, one of the most sacred ghats in Haridwar, involves a number of priests addressing the Mother and leading prayers and chanted mantras in reverence. They blow conch shells, ring bells, bang brass cymbals, and wave lighted multi-tiered brass lamps, all in a traditional ceremony which lasts about 45 minutes.
I was travelling with photographer Karl Grobl and local guide DV Singh; they got us into a great vantage point across the water from the aarti. I was as much impressed by the welcoming friendliness of the people around me as I was by the ritual on the opposite shore.
Join me for some environmental portraits from the ghats in Haridwar.
Haridwar Street It is a short walk from our hotel to the ghats on the Ganges.
Jewellery Salesman Our walk takes us through narrow lanes with brightly lit stores selling jewellery in gold and semi-precious stones.
Young Woman in the Gold
Women in the Street Many of the pilgrims I meet have travelled a long way; they gather outside the shops to admire the jewellery – and possibly add to their collection of bangles.
Man in a Cap
Bridge over the Ganges We walk across the Shiv Setu bridge to get to our vantage point on the opposite bank.
Flowers on the Water Flowers are swept away underneath us. Any time of day or night, people say prayers and offer gifts to the Ganga Ma.
Hindu Priests on Har Ki Pauri It is still early – the aarti takes place at sunrise and sundown – but the ghat is already a hive of activity.
Priests on the Steps With spectators either side on the stairs of the ghat, the priests launch into their litany of chanted prayers.
Woman in Red Our side of the river is quite crowded, but everyone is in a good humour …
Woman and her Husband … and there are plenty of smiles to welcome the strangers in their midst.
Women in the Crowd
Worshipers on the Ghat As the light falls, our ghat becomes quite crowded.
“Om Jai Gange Mata” When the traditional song venerating the Mother Ganges starts, everyone joins in, …
“Jai Ganga, Qui Jai” … throwing their hands in the air with gusto on the chorus.
Prayers to Ganga Ma The belief that the Ganges is the living embodiment of a Goddess or spiritual Mother runs strong, …
Reverence … and people offer up their heartfelt prayers to this celestial river.
Woman and her Husband: Reprise Twilight falls over the crowd on the ghat.
Woman in Brown All around me, the audience/participants take the time …
Woman in a Colourful Scarf … to smile and have their pictures made.
Smiling Girl
Man in a Woolen Cap Once the sun is gone, the temperature cools dramatically.
A Couple on the Ghat
Priests with Lamps Fire is central to any aarti: the flames are ritually waved in veneration of the deity – in this case, Ganga Ma.
Priest with a Lamp After the aarti, lighted wicks are are passed around …
Young Woman with a Lamp … and worshippers pass their hands through the scented smoke …
Woman with a Lamp … and then wave this over their face to receive the purifying blessings, before passing the flame on.
End of the Aarti on Har Ki Pauri Soon it is dark, and the aarti is finishing up. Scented smoke lingers on the air.
The aarti in Haridwar was completely different from those that I had watched some years prior in Varanasi (see: Light the Darkness and Life and Death on the Ghats) – a further illustration that worship can be done in any manner, as long as it is mindful.
Minaret and Mountains This is so prototypically Oman: the minaret of Al Qala’a Mosque and the walls of the seventeenth century Nizwa Fort and Souq stands out against the arid and rugged Hajar Mountains.
I spent less than a week in the Sultanate of Oman, an Islamic Arab country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula.
In that time, however, I saw countless forts, castles, and towers (see: Oman’s Fortress Castles and Jabreen Castle). Perhaps this is unsurprising, as the country is called “the land of [a] thousand forts.” These structures – whether in ruins or extensively restored and opened as museums – punctuate the landscape. They rise, solitary, out of rocky hilltops, or blend into sprawling urban complexes.
Nizwa Fort is described as among Oman’s top forts – and is often rated as the number one. It is certainly the most visited – probably in part because it is only two hours away from Muscat, Oman’s capital and most populous city.
Nizwa is the most important city in Oman’s interior and one of the oldest continuously occupied settlements in the country. It was the centre of the al Julanda dynasty in the 6th and 7th century CE and became known as a spiritual capital. It’s location in an area with water and abundant natural wealth, and at the crossroads of a number of vital trading routes, made it attractive to outsiders.
Hence, the fort.
The very impressive Nizwa Fort was built over a span of 12 years in the 17th century by Sultan bin Saif al Yaruba, the first imam of the Ya’aruba dynasty. The sprawling structure, with its impressive 40 m (31 ft) tower, sits on foundations dating back to the 12th century.
The extensively renovated structure is a popular tourist destination, with historical displays throughout, and magnificent views from the rooftop battlements. I was just as impressed by the traditional souqs (or souks, meaning markets) that surround it at ground-level. There, I got to taste-test freshly-made halwa (literally: Arabic for sweet), and admire the colourful glass lamps and silver jewellery.
Come for a wander:
Dates in the Souk Oman is home to more than 250 indigenous varieties of dates: they are the first thing to greet me in the souq.
Painter in the Rafters High overhead, a tradesman pauses to smile for the camera.
Ingredients Halwa all starts with the same basic ingredients, …
Sweet Treats … but ends up in countless forms and flavours.
Salesman in a Kuma The smiling salesman in his embroidered Omani cap tried to persuade me to take some halwa home; unfortunately, it doesn’t have a very long shelf-life!
Omani Lamps in the Market
Spices
Guide at the Entry My local guide Said waits at the fort entry to provide an informative walk-through.
Entering Nizwa Fort It is cool and dark inside the thick walls – a welcome relief from the desert heat.
Sun over Nizwa Fort It is only mid-morning, but the sun is high and fierce over the curving walls around the courtyard.
Nizwa and the Hajar Mountains From the top of the fort, the views extend over the plateau in all directions …
View into the Courtyard … including into the lower levels of the fort itself.
Gazebo with a Golden Dome We also get a good view of the Arabic script decorating the public gazebo in the city below.
Al Qala’a Mosque
Cannon The fort was designed to conduct – and withstand – cannon-based warfare. The original cannons in the tower allowed complete 360-degree coverage across the countryside.
Women’s Wealth The heavy and ornate silver jewellery worn by important women signalled their wealth and societal status.
Silver Finery
Fort Layout Strategically-place signboards explain the fort’s layout and aspects of it structure. Without my guide, I would have become hopelessly lost!
Arches and Information
The Omani Khanjar These curved daggers are traditional weapons that are symbols of pride to the Omani people and part of the men’s national dress.
Antique Dallah Coffee Pot
Rooftop From another vantage point, we can see over the walls and into the surrounding date palm plantations.
Into the Walls From one of the information signs: “Although the terms ‘fort’ and ‘castle’ are often used interchangeably, they have very different meanings: A ‘fort’ (ga’lah) is a garrisoned military post. A ‘castle’ (hisn) is a fortified building or group of buildings allocated to administrative or residential use.” The entrance to the armoury is next to the arched passageway.
Ancient Well A reliable source of water is crucial to any fortified building.
Tented Shop Back in the souq, everything has a Bedouin flavour.
Pottery Lamps These pottery lamps were everywhere in Oman.
In the Shops The many shops in the souq are a treasure-trove of craft and artistry – and a respite from the heat and glare outside.
In the Souk Fortunately for me, everything was too heavy or too fragile for my suitcase, and I escaped without purchases.
Well, without purchases except for dates and halwa; …
Village in the Mist Ghandruk is a charming Gurung village in Nepal’s Modi Khola Valley. The usually stunning Annapurnas are hiding in the background, behind the rain and mists.
I was distressed to hear about the earthquake in Nepal earlier this month (3 November 2023): multi-storied brick houses in the remote, mountainous districts of Jajarkot and West Rukum collapsed after the 6.4 magnitude (USGS) quake, burying whole families in the rubble.
This beautiful country has had a special place in my heart since my first trekking trip there many years ago. My last visit was in March of 2017. Although that was almost two full years after the previous major earthquake – the Gorkha earthquake of April 2015 – the wreckage of that disaster could still be seen everywhere, and rebuilding was taking place slowly. The Gorkha quake was much more destructive than this November one – at least in part because it was in more built-up and populated areas, destroying homes and precious heritage temples all around the Kathmandu Valley. Even so, the thought of the lives lost and the extra hardships visited on the people affected by this most recent natural disaster as we come into a northern winter gives me pause.
On my 2017 trip to the country, I spent some time walking in the Kathmandu Valley (see: Ursula’s Weekly Wanders: Kathmandu Valley Rim) before participating in a photography workshop with the delightful Gavin Gough. After the workshop, my husband joined me, and a group of us undertook a slow circuit trek in the Annapurnas under the guidance of Angfula Sherpa.
On the penultimate day of our trek, we set off early from Tadapani, and travelled east towards the traditional Gurung village of Ghandruk. Although this portion of the Ghorepani/Poon Hill trek is rated as relatively easy, and is mostly downhill, I wasn’t the only one feeling my joints and my age. It was our fifth day of walking, and much of it had been through rain. I was happy to pace slowly, and thrilled to stop for an early lunch in the tiny hamlet of Bhaisi Kharka (see: One Enchanted Morning).
Sometimes it is easier to enjoy walks when revisiting the old photos! The foot-sore fatigue and insidious rain are all but forgotten when I look once again at the beauty of those hardy people and distant landscapes.
Join me in and around Ghandruk.
In the Courtyard We had stopped for early lunch in the hamlet of Bhaisi Kharka, where Gavin chatted with the locals …
Child with a Phone … and watched as a young child played with his phone.
Flower in the Stream We are surrounded by the famous Himalayan forests of rhododendron trees. The spring blooming season is coming to an end, and flowers drop from the tall trees around us and into the waters rushing past.
Waterfall The mountain waters – in what is probably the Ghatte Khola – rush down the rocks in a steep fall …
Steep Stairs … and narrow stone steps follow beside them. We are gradually dropping down in altitude; watch your footing!
Prayer Flags Tibetan prayer flags bless the surrounding countryside and colour our path.
Mossy Steps I can’t help but wonder how long these mountain paths have been in use …
Stone Steps … as they wind off around the mountainside.
Twisted Trees It is like being in the enchanted forests that populate old fairy tales! The mossy tree trunks bend and twist around us in the damp.
Wild Rhododendron This is the land of the lali gurans(lali guras), Nepal’s national flower, the red rhododendron. Some are still blooming in the dense forest around us.
Buffalo (Bubalus Bubalis) Grazing Nepal relies on buffalo, which contribute more than half the milk and over one-third of the country’s meat production.
Wood Pile Winters are long and hard: in the absence of reliable electricity, these remote areas still depend on wood for heating and cooking.
Broken Window I love the colours and textures – and have to wonder how long it has been since this actually operated as a store!
Ghandruk in the Rain The heavy mists have developed into full-on rain. As we round the corner to Ghandruk, most of the village disappears into cloud.
Ponies and Donkeys on the Path Closer to the village, we share the wet cobbles …
Pack Animals at Work … with trains of ponies and donkeys.
Old Gurung Woman The local people seem unconcerned by the rain; on the other hand, we are coated in plastic!
Mountain Dog in the Rain From time to time we meet variations on the beautiful Tibetan mastiff.
Shiny Kitchen Later, once I’m in dry clothes, I admire the shiny utensils in the kitchen of our guesthouse.
Saleswoman The next morning, we get up from our cosy room to find a saleswoman ready and waiting outside in the courtyard with her beautiful mountain gems. (iPhone6)
Our Team This will be our last day walking, so I make a picture of our wonderful guides and porters. (iPhone6)
Ponies on the Track The pack horses are already at work when we set off out of the village. Even though people are becoming more aware of animal welfare, the dainty animals look a bit sad to me.
Boy on a Rock The misty rains continue, keeping the mountain range hidden.
A Cheeky Smile An impromptu environmental portrait session almost makes up for the weather!
Leaving Ghandruk We pause to mark the start of our final leg , …
Fields Below … as the valley we’ll be descending into beckons in the mists below …
Ponies on the Path … and the narrow track winds out in front of us.
Over the course of this portion of our walk, we dropped from about 2548 m (8361 ft) at Bhaisi Kharka to 2012 m (6601 ft) at Ghandruk. It was noticeable in the vegetation around us: almost gone were the rhododendron forests, replaced by expanses of terraced farms.
My legs and lungs also noticed the difference in altitude, and were thankful.
The Bow River at Lake Louise Tall trees, pristine, glacier-fed waters, and magnificent snow-dusted mountains – you can’t beat the Canadian Rocky Mountains!
I’ve had a love of the Canadian Rocky Mountains for as long as I can remember.
In my earliest years in Canada, we lived on the West Coast, where the mountains and Pacific Ocean meet. Then we moved inland, to the foothills of Calgary, where the Prairies stretch out flat in the east forever … But in the west, on clear days, the Rockies can just be seen.
Every summer, we drove through those magnificent mountains to visit family back on the coast.
I hated the actual trips: my brother and I spent long days wedged into the back seat of an old car that struggled up all the mountain inclines. I suffered dreadfully from car sickness. We overnighted in free, National Parks, campsites. My afternoon task was to hunt for firewood that was invariably covered in spiders, and dinner was usually instant soups or baked beans cooked on a smelly Coleman stove. There were never barbequed steaks or guitar sing-songs near our leaky and too-small tent! Our campsites included dug-in outhouses: none of the amenity blocks, swimming pools, or children’s playgrounds that commercial sites offered.
But, in spite of all that, I loved those mountains. And, I’ve taken great joy from driving through them more recently in cars that hum like a dream, and overnighting in rooms with electric kettles and running water.
Late May of this year, I was thrilled to be making a road trip into those wonderful mountains, and was particularly pleased with my non-tented accommodation in the charming hamlet of Lake Louise in Banff National Park. It wasn’t exactly the magnificent Fairmont Château Lake Louise, but that gracious old Canadian Pacific hotel was close enough that I hiked out to it to have a rather envious look (see: Walking the Louise Creek Trail).
For my second full day in town, I opted for a shorter, less strenuous walk along the Bow River.
As helpful as I usually find AllTrails, the app failed to warn me that half the track is closed off for five months every year to allow the free passage of bears; this meant that my walk was out-and-back, rather than a circuit. Even so, I enjoyed a relaxing walk along the river – especially as it was all virtually flat.
Squeaking Columbian Ground Squirrel – Spermophilus Columbianus I love these little guys! I was hoping this one was leading me to a shortcut through the woods, but I hit the creek, and had to back-track and follow the road into the village in order to find the start of my track.
Bow River Rail Crossing The river is fast and shallow here; it picks up water as it heads east to meet the South Saskatchewan River.
Treetops and Mountaintops The boreal forest here is home to a number of tree species, with the Douglas fir being the tallest, reaching heights of up to 45 metres (150 feet).
A Fork in the Trail Once I cross the main road, I see the sign I photographed the day before; from here, my track diverges from the Louise Creek Trail and I follow the river south.
Bow River Tall conifers frame the river …
Chalet in the Woods … and shelter the houses and lodges set back just far enough to have magnificent views.
Bridge over the Bow River There are a couple of bridges along here: this one leads to the Lake Louise Campground.
Island in the Bow Banff National Park is known for its “golden season” when the deciduous trees, like these nestled in with the conifers, put on their colourful autumn display.
Nature’s Abstracts : Tree Trunk
Tall Trees The path is soft underfoot …
Rocky Riverbed … and the river is never far away.
Into the Woods
Split Stream The river is still small enough that it is easily diverted around every small patch of higher ground.
Nature’s Artworks : Colourful New Growth The signs of spring are all around.
American Robin – Turdus Migratorius I kept a look out for bears. The best I could capture was a common robin – and the odd crow.
“Along the Bow River” I had hoped – at the very least – to see some of the birds mentioned on the signboards along the path! They are mostly quite common, but this trip I saw none of them!
Seasonal Closure Not all the signs I saw were good news: when I got to the point at which I was meant to cross the river and return via the other bank, I discovered that this wasn’t going to happen. “Providing bears and other large mammals the ability to move through the valley bottom unimpeded is crucial to their survival.” Fair enough! But I would have liked to have known sooner.
Along the River So, I returned by way of the same track I had set out on.
Nature’s Palette : Colourful Rocks
American Red Squirrel – Tamiasciurus Hudsonicus After a dearth of bears or other large mammals, I was ridiculously excited to spot a squirrel!
American Red Squirrel – Tamiasciurus Hudsonicus I stood still, making sounds I thought might be engaging …
American Red Squirrel – Tamiasciurus Hudsonicus .. so that I might get a portrait.
Boulders in the River I love the colours and textures everywhere!
Lake Louise Visitor Centre Before I knew it, I was back at the National Parks’ office.
View from the Timber Wolf No baked beans in a leaky tent for me! I got to enjoy views of those magnificent mountains with my dinner of pasta and wine.
Clay Bull’s-Head Rhyton Bulls featured hugely in ancient Minoan culture. While this decorated clay head in the Heraklion Archaeological Museum in Crete looks like it could have come out of a home-decor shop, it is actually a rhyton, an ancient Greek drinking horn, and dates somewhere between 1450 and 1370 BC.
I’m not normally a huge fan of museums: there are only so many plaques I can read on dusty displays before I hit overload, or become mind-numbingly bored.
But, all of the guide books and everyone I met on Crete recommended the Heraklion Archaeological Museum. It is reputed to be one of the greatest museums in Greece – and in a country where classical Greek ruins and artefacts are all around, that is saying something!
More importantly, the museum houses the world’s most extensive collection of Minoan art and artefacts. After my small taste of Minoan culture during a visit to the Palace of Knossos (see: The Minotaur, Mythology and an Ancient Palace), my interest was piqued.
The museum was originally founded in 1908, with a dedicated building erected between 1904 and 1912 in the centre of Heraklion. Following three damaging earthquakes, a new, modernist, anti-seismic construction was completed in 1940. Although the site suffered some damage during the Second World War, the collection – which spans antiquities from 7000 BC through to the Roman occupation in the third century CE – survived. The structure was extensively renovated between 2006 and 2013, and retains a fresh, contemporary appearance.
I was surprised when I was allowed to take the cameras inside – and even more surprised that I felt compelled to use them! While there are numerous examples of art from the Roman period (between 600 BC and 300 CE), I skimmed over them in favour of the earlier Cretan artefacts.
The ancient Minoan art absolutely captured me – and I spent far more time inside the museum than I had planned.
Heraklion Archaeological Museum The current museum – a modern anti-seismic structure – was built between 1937 and 1940 by Greek architect Patroklos Karantinos. Damaged in the Second World War, it has been repaired and extended over the years, and was extensively renovated between 2006 and 2013.
Marine Ritual Triton The age and beauty of the artifacts on display are breathtaking. This elegant trumpet shell dates between 3600 and 3000 BC.
Terracotta Goddess (5300 – 3000 BC) Pottery and weaving came into their own during the Neolithic period; …
“Steatopygous Goddess” from Pano Chorio … this beautiful little sculpture can take her place beside the Paleolithic Venus figurines of Europe.
Neolithic Jug (2600-1900 BC.) The descriptive signage calls the decoration of these dishes ‘typical’. I find the jug shape, and the pattern of converging lines, both beautiful and modern.
Clay Figurines (1900-1700 BC) This ancient woman (and the men) are believed to be in an ‘attitude of worship’.
Storage Jars The building’s designer, Patroklos Karantinos (1903-1976) is described as an architect of ‘classical modernism’. The place feels spacious and airy, with plenty of light from the skylights above and along the top of the walls.
Patterned Jugs Wonderful shapes and designs are everywhere!
Decorated Pots Kamares ware is a stylish example of Middle Minoan (2100-1600 BC) ceramics, characterized by elegant shapes, and light-on-dark abstract and floral patterns.
Kamares Ware (1900-1700 BC) The style is named for a cave, discovered in 1864, where some of best examples were found.
Model of the Palace of Knossos Knossos was the center of Minoan civilization during the Neopalatial period (1750 –1450 BC). This impressive and detailed wooden model of the palace’s complex floor plan was made by Zacharias S. Kanakis – who was the conservator of the Archaeological Society of Athens in 1968.
Bull’s Head Rhyton and Figurines Considering that these beautiful objects are around 4000 years old, it amazes me that so many have survived!
Another Bull’s Head Rhyton (1500-1450 BC) These clay libation vessels were used at royal banquets and were symbols of high status. The purpose of the rhyton was to deliver a controlled amount of liquid into the bowl of the banqueter – but they were sometimes drunk from directly.
Phaistos Disc (Early 17th Century BC) The descriptive plaque calls this clay object ‘enigmatic’. The forty-five pictorial signs and their different arrangements are assumed to be words, but the meaning and the relationship to Cretan script has not been established. Best guess is that this disc from Phaistos depicts a hymn or a magic spell.
Bull-Leaping Fresco I’ve shared a picture of this fresco before (see: The Minotaur, Mythology and an Ancient Palace). It shows the most spectacular Minoan acrobatic sport: bull-leaping. Young athletes made a dangerous leap over the horns and back of a charging bull – presumably in front of a large crowd of excited spectators.
Double Axes Offerings of small axes were made from gold, silver, and bronze sheet. (1700-1450)
Clay Figurines (1650-1500 BC) These stylised clay figurines are thought to depict worshippers.
And Another Bull’s Head Rhyton (1550-1500 BC) This partially restored libation vessel was carved from a single block of black steatite.
Where Art and Myth Meet : The Ring of Minos (1450-1400 BC) Found in Knossos, the so-called Ring of Minos is a stunning work of Minoan art, inscribed with religious iconography.
Figurines of the Snake Goddess (1650-1550 BC) These are considered the most important religious objects from the Knossos Temple Repositories. The figurines of the “Snake Goddess” are named for the snakes twining around the body and arms of the larger figure, and the two snakes that the smaller figure holds in her hands. The snakes symbolise the chthonic (underground, living in the underworld) character of the goddess. The cat on the head of the smaller figure is thought to suggest her dominion over wildlife. Both wear luxurious clothes, with close-fitting bodices exposing their breasts to symbolise the fertility of the goddess, women, and nature itself.
Decorative and Functional Pitchers
The Poppy Goddess (1300-1200 BC) Five goddess figurines were found in a small shrine room at Gazi, Heraklion. They are crowned with – among other things – symbols believed to be the fruit of the opium poppy (Papaver somniferum).
Burial Pithoi During the Neopalatial period (1700-1450 BC), the dead were laid to rest in wide-mouthed clay jars (pithoi), in wooden coffins, …
Clay Larnakes … on beds and biers, or in sarcophagi chests made of clay.
Bronze Grave Statue : Hellenistic Period (Mid 1st Cent BC) Jump forward two thousand years, and funereal art is more classically realistic, as in this sculpture of a sorrowful young man in a mantle.
Winged Cupids These terracotta cupids from the Hellenistic period (323 BC – 30 BC) probably accompanied the burial of a women or child.
And, so the cycle of life continues … bringing out the best of human creativity.
The magnificent art and artefacts that were once used in daily life, religious practice, and burial rituals that are on display in the Archaeological Museum are rightly celebrated!
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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… and I didn’t have to carry those home!
The magnificent art and artefacts that were once used in daily life, religious practice, and burial rituals that are on display in the 
