From the First People of Comox Valley, Canada, to the landlocked central African nation of Chad; from acoustic guitar folk harmonies to cross-cultural genre-bending musical layers; from unaccompanied voices and percussions to complex and layered instrumental blends – the Vancouver Island Musicfest in July had no apparent boundaries. Even if I’d had an idea what to expect, I still would have been surprised.
I was meant to be attending the festival with a friend who had taken part before; unfortunately, she became ill and couldn’t make it. But, I love live music (see: Music in the Snowy Mountains) and I already had my ticket and my accommodation in nearby Courtenay – so off I went.
I had a lot of difficulty deciding how to organise my pictures. (I also had difficulty taking them – more on that some other time!) In the end, I’ve simply grouped them on a timeline.
So, this short set is from Day 1, Friday evening July 12th, when only one stage was running. Technical difficulties meant that things kicked off late, but started with the Welcome from the local First People’s Kumugwe Dancers. In addition to welcoming us to their traditional lands, they invited three Maori visitors from New Zealand to the stage to present their cultural dance. I spoke to one of the New Zealanders afterwards: he had never before performed in public! The dance they had conducted on stage was usually part of their family cultural gatherings.
The nine energetic singers who form Les Aunties were on next, with their musical entreaties to educate and empower women. They sang to us, in their charmingly accented native French overlaid on rhythmic African harmonies, about the ongoing hardships for women in Chad in Central Africa. In complete contrast, Second Moon, who had just flown in from South Korea, thrilled the audience with traditional Pansori sounds mixed with Irish instruments. The lead singer, Danhae Oh, can hold a note longer than I have heard in a long time! Their set was cut short by organisers trying to get the timing back on track – much to the disappointment of all those seated around me.
Folk-duo the Milk Carton Kids from Los Angeles followed, with their distinctively Simon-and-Garfunkely sound. For those you of not from North America, back before the days of plastic bottles, the faces and descriptions of missing children were often printed on milk cartons – in the hope that someone would recognise them. Those were the original ‘Milk carton kids.’
Then, another complete shift, and we were treated to four gifted virtuoso musicians: multi-Grammy-winning banjo player Béla Fleck, pre-eminent classical tabla artist Zakir Hussain, outstanding double bassist Edgar Meyer, and brilliant classical Indian flautist Rakesh Chaurasia, play together as As We Speak. It shouldn’t work, but it does! I was not the only audience member smiling and breathless.
Join me for some musical portraits:
.jpg) “Welcome”
Chief Wedlidi Speck, Hereditary Chief of the G’ixsam Clan of the Kwakiutl, with cultural connections to the Kwakwaka’wakw, Nuu-chah-nulth, and Northern Vancouver Island Coast Salish tribes, … .jpg) Blankets, Buttons, and Fringes
… opened the music festival and introduced the Kumugwe Dancers.  Wolf Headdresses
The Kumugwe Dancers performed a number of dances. In this region, the wolf represents loyalty, strong family ties, good communication, education, understanding, and intelligence. A Sea of Hats
Temperatures were in the comfortably low 20° C (70° F), but it had been a cold spring and there was little shade. Locals (and I) kept well covered. (iPhone15Pro) Traditional Dress
More Kumugwe Dancers in blanket capes and fur headdresses – traditional dress on Vancouver Island shows a lot of cross-over with First Nation groups from further north, like Haida and Tlingit. A Sunny Afternoon
According to rules posted everywhere, chairs or tarps are not meant to be left unattended. Even so, there are a lot of empty seats where people have staked out their territory. Stories of Tchad
Les Aunties took to the stage with their wonderful voices – and sad stories in charmingly accented French. Singing for Les Aunties
The Republic of Chad was a French colony until 1960; the official languages are French and Arabic. Ongoing conflicts and structural challenges have resulted in a serious deterioration in the living conditions of women – which these strong women sing about. Food Trucks
One of the great pleasures of festivals is enjoying foods I wouldn’t normally eat. Yunjeong Jo on Violin
The seven-piece Second Moon from South Korea took to the stage with vigour – in spite of just arriving into the country. “Traditional Pansori Meets Western Music”
I can’t quite get a handle on what Pansori is, but one description says the traditional Korean style involves a ‘clown’ singing of his trials and tribulations to the accompaniment of one or two drums. Danhae Oh
In Pansori, a clown sings with a fan in their right hand. Danhae Oh had us gasping over his vocal range and breath control. In a Gat – a Korean Hat
Multi-instrumentalist Hyunbo Kim plays Irish whistle … Hyunbo Kim
… and electric bagpipes, among other instruments. The Milk Carton Kids
Kenneth Pattengale and Joey Ryan formed their folk duo in 2011 and have recently released their seventh studio album. Vocal Harmonies
The beautifully blended voices of The Milk Carton Kids have a distinctly Simon & Garfunkel feel. Sound Check
Even watching the technicians getting the balances right for As We Speak was riveting! As We Speak
A true collaboration among virtuosos Béla Fleck, Zakir Hussain, Edgar Meyer, and Rakesh Chaurasia, this ensemble alternated between working together and showcasing individual talent. Edgar Meyer, Rakesh Chaurasia, and Zakir Hussain
Double bassist and composer Edgar Meyer has Western classical music roots, while Rakesh Chaurasia has mastered techniques of Indian classical music. The superb tabla of Zakir Hussain had me dreaming of India and camel riding. Béla Fleck on Banjo
American banjo player Béla Fleck plays music including bluegrass, jazz, classical, rock, and various world music genres. As We Speak on the Stage
The combined effect was breathtaking, and well worth the price of the ticket. That set alone was worth the price of admission! I bought the CD (which, unfortunately I cannot share as my computer doesn’t have a reader), and took myself home for a shower.
And, I was not the only audience member to call it quits at that point, feeling quite sated – and quite looking forward to the next day.
Until then,
Enjoy the Music!
Pictures: 12July2024
Posted in Canada,Music,musiciansTags: British Columbia,Canada,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,music,Music Festival,Native American,people,performance,performers,portrait,portraits,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,Vancouver Island,world music
Looking out from the Hidden Monasteries
Dating back to the Byzantine, the old fortified monastery of Philosophos Menalon, on the western side of the Lousios Gorge in Arcadia, was reputedly home to a secret Orthodox school during the Ottoman rule of Greece (1453 – 1821). They had me at “walk”.
Then they told me I’d visit ancient Orthodox monasteries and be treated to Coffee & Greek Delight. What a joy!
I was travelling around Greece with a small group: we had wound our way east from Olympia on the Peloponnese Peninsula (see: In the Footsteps of the Gods), and driven high into the Peloponnese Mountains. There, we stopped in the charming stone-built village of Dimitsana, staying two nights in a guesthouse on the steep slopes of Mt. Mainalo overlooking the Lousios River.
This gave us a full day to explore nearby villages and a small section of the Menalon Trail.
What is now called the Menalon Trail is a 75 kilometre (47 mile) track from Stemnitsa to Lagkadia, following ancient mountain tracks historically used to get people and mules between villages and monasteries. Paths run every-which-way, and we were able to dip into the track to visit the tenth-century Byzantine monastery of Philosophou (Philosophos/Filosofou) and the amazing working monastery of Prodromos.
The mountains around the Lousios Valley are spectacular and layered with history. The Lousios River is said to be where Zeus was bathed as an infant. The ancient Arcadian town of Teuthis, which was part of the Trojan War and the colonization of Megalopolis, was where Dimitsana now sits. Sections of the old walls remain. The word ‘monastery’ comes from the Greek monazein “to live alone”: hermits and monks have stayed in caves that overlook the Lousios Gorge for centuries.
The Monastery of the Philosopher, on the west side of the gorge, was founded by 963 by Ioannis Lampardopoulos from Dimitsana, and is thought to be the oldest monastery in Arcadia. In more recent times, a krifó scholió, a secret school, is said to have operated here to teach children Greek language and religion during the Ottoman occupation, and it is where the Greek Revolution of 1821 against that occupation began.
On the opposite side of the Lousios Gorge, about 200 metres above the bed of the river, the incredible Prodromos Monastery follows a ledge in the cliff face. Dedicated to John the Baptist (Agios Ioannis Prodromos), it was built in the 16th century on foundations dating to 1167. It survived a 1779 attack by Albanian troops under the Ottoman command and became a refuge and hospital for fighters during the Greek Revolution.
Today, the monks in Prodromos offer coffee and Greek Delight to appropriately-dressed visitors during open hours. I loved it!
Come explore:
Moni Philosophou
The start of our walk takes us over the domed basilica of the ‘new’ Filosofou Monastery, which has perched on the west side of the Lousios Gorge since 1691. Stairs on the Trail
From the ‘new’ monastery, we follow a paved path down the mountainside … Stairs Up
… arriving at older sections of path that seem to lead us into the mountain itself. The red sign with the squiggled ‘M’ on it is an official Menalon Trail marker. Through the Tunnels
The old monastery is nestled into narrow cavities eroded and carved into the mountainside. Hidden Corridors
There are six to seven meters – sometimes less – between the outer wall and the rock face. The Old Philosophou Monastery
Fading religious frescoes can be seen (no photos allowed!) inside the small chapel. Ancient Corridors
The views across the valley are incredible! View from a Hole-in-the-Wall Walking through Corridors
Like the monasteries of Meteora (see: A Walk through Ancient Monasteries), the wild inaccessibility of these places allowed the Orthodox monks and their traditions to survive the long Ottoman rule. Path in the Woods
The path continues down into the Lousios valley. Cyclamen and Ivy Waterfall on a Mountain Stream
This section of trail is sometimes called The Prayers’ Gorge – probably for the pilgrims who walked through here. Monastery on the Hill
Once we cross the stream over to the other side of the valley, we can see the incredible Prodromou Monastery, built into the steep cliff high above us. Heliotropium Europaeum and Crocus Flavus Orthodox Dome
It’s a steep climb up from the valley floor … In the Monastery
… to the courtyard of the Prodromou Monastery. Cats are everywhere! Into the Monastery
Built in the 16th century, today Prodromou is one of the largest and most historic monasteries in the Peloponnese. We are welcomed with coffee and sweets. Holy Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior
After our visit to the ancient monastery, we continue our trek upward until we reach another orthodox church and a roadway, where our transport waits. View into the Valley
There is an overlook nearby, and we pause to admire the valley. Coffee and Greek Delight
It’s all about the food! The coffee at Prodromou tasted even better after our walk. (iPhone12Pro) … When in Greece …
Lunch in Stemnitsa was lemony grilled lamb chops. How do chips and salads taste so good? (iPhone12Pro) Country Lanes – Mountain Village
After lunch, I take the time to wander the charming streets of Stemnítsa. (iPhone12Pro) Roadside Shrine
We return to Dimitsana, where the streets are just as delightful. Stone Buildings
Modern five-star accommodation hides behind traditional building fronts. Dimitsana Street
Stonework is everywhere – some of it dates to the ancient town of Teuthis Dimitsana on the Hill View from my Balcony
After dark, Dimitsana is lit up like a fairytale. (iPhone12Pro)  It is such a beautiful area!
I’m not sure which I enjoyed more, the walking or the food.
Pictures: 16September2022
Posted in Architecture,Greece,TravelTags: architecture,Greece,mountains,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,village,walk
Number Thirteen Orange
The austere Outback landscape around Lightning Ridge is populated by rugged individuals with a sense of hope and humour. The tourism ‘office’ with its Car Door self-driving tours is clearly in on the joke. The air pulsates with dry heat. The sky and earth vibrate with impossible colours. You are surrounded by rusted equipment, reclaimed tyres, and expensive solar panels; it is impossible to discern what is in use and what has been abandoned. Houses are fashioned from old campers and railway carriages, or lovingly created out of mud bricks and empty beer bottles and cans. These are the ultimate recyclers, but it begs the question: who drank the contents of all those containers?
Lightning Ridge, a small outback Australian town in north-western New South Wales, is like nowhere else. Legend says it was named for a farmer, who – with his dog and several hundred sheep – was killed there during a fierce electrical storm in the 1870s. While sheep (and goat) grazing still occurs on these arid lands, opals were discovered late in the year 1900, changing the landscape forever.
Today, this is still opal mining territory, where you could dig forever in the airless underground and not make much of a living, or you could find a seam of precious black opal and strike it rich. It takes a hardy creativity – and a sense of hope and humour – to live here.
I had two nights stopped in town on the long drive home from Northern Queensland (see: Back Roads in Country Queensland). We were still in the grips of Covid-19 travel bans and lockdowns, and as I was prohibited from travelling overseas, I was ticking off some of the local destinations that had long been on my list.
The already sparsely-populated settlement was as quiet as a ghost town. Transient miners come and go, and like much of the tourism industry at that time, many of the attractions in Lightning Ridge were closed. None of the advertised tours were operating. Restaurants and services were taking turns being open. In addition to Covid restrictions, it was HOT. Although technically autumn, March temperatures routinely reach 42°C (107.6°F). Overnight lows seldom drop below 19°C (66.2°F).
An impromptu visit to the local tourism ‘office’ of volunteers paid off. For gold coins, you can buy maps of the self-driving ‘Car Door Tours’ that use painted car doors scattered on the landscape to guide you through the local sights (see: Lightning Ridge Visitors Guide). A social-distancing bonanza!
Most of these ‘Tours’ are short circuits around town, but the Orange Door Tour is a suggested day trip to the Grawin Opal Fields, about 40 km (25 mi) southwest of Lightning Ridge as the crow flies. In a car, the turn off for the tour is 57 km (35 mi) out of town, and takes you onto some very bumpy and dusty corrugated dirt roads.
But, I’m not precious about the condition of my car, and I’m always up for an interesting drive. Join me in the mining fields of Grawin and Cumborah, and – of course – Lightning Ridge.
“Watch Your Head”
After settling into my cabin at a local caravan park, I set off on foot in search of dinner – checking out some local sites along the way. Cooper’s Cottage, built in 1916 on Morilla Street, is a typical miner’s home constructed from whatever could be found lying around. (iPhone12Pro) Car in the Carport
My morning walk takes me past another miner’s hut – this one built in 1932. Heritage Cottage has been preserved as a museum by the local Historical Society. Thanks to Covid19, it was closed – but I was able to walk around to admire the outdoor displays. (iPhone12Pro) Lightning Ridge ‘Rocket’
After breakfast, I set off in my vehicle to find the Orange Car Door tour. On the way to the junction of the Bill O’Brien Way (the local road) and the Castlereagh Highway, I stopped to photograph the Welcome display. This includes a giant opal agitator crafted out of the rear-end of an old cement mixer. These are used to wash the clay in order to reveal any precious gems. Stanley the Giant Emu
My second stop was a few minutes down the highway, where a quirky 18 metre (59 foot) emu stands watch. Volkswagen Beetle Body
Made from more than a tonne of scrap metal, Stanly is the dream-child of local artist John Murray. Golf Course Sign
I was aiming to have lunch at Grawin’s Club in the Scrub, a registered sports club. I was grateful for the quirky signage: I would have been convinced that I’d missed a turn somewhere otherwise! (iPhone12Pro) Welcome to the Club in the Scrub
Like many other local buildings, the club comprised a lot of corrugated iron. To the Men’s Shed
I parked the car, and went for a short walk around the small community. Tip Truck
Opal mining involves moving a lot of dirt. Every operator owns a tipper truck. Equipment
Rubber tyres don’t do well in this environment. Cactus
The climate here is classified as hot and semiarid. Mining Rig
This is a typical small-claim opal mining set-up: a shaft is drilled into the earth and a hoist is used to bucket material up from the ground into a truck. A ventilation shaft comes up out of the depths. Accommodation Setup
Some of the homes look more permanent than others. Solar panels are essential to off-grid living. Home Complex
Water tanks are a necessity, and shade is at a premium. Bedford Truck Meet the Locals
The club was doing a good trade when I stopped in. Glengarry Hilton
Back in the car, I drove past the rough-and-ready airstrip and opal dumps to the neighbouring community of Glengarry, where I pass what was the first pub on the Opal Fields. Mobile Speed Camera Ahead
So much signage is ‘recovered’ that I never knew what was real. In any event, I didn’t get a ticket! (iPhone12Pro) Another Inn
The Grawin opal fields might not have much of a population – but they do have three pubs! I stopped at the Sheepyard Inn for an early afternoon coffee. Wonderful place. Rusty Vehicles
The locality of Sheepyards is still home to some agricultural activity, but opal mining – and tourism – have taken over in importance. Opal Dirt Dumps
Who knows? You could get lucky fossicking in the giant dumps of opal dirt. Another Old Truck The Sheepyard And Community War Memorial
This quiet place is a tribute to the locals who served and fell in conflicts over the years. Tribute to the Veterans
Built by miners, many of whom were themselves Vietnam Veterans, the ironstone boulders and their memorial plaques are a sombre sight. Emus in the Road A Hot Semiarid Landscape Red Door Tour
The next morning before continuing my drive south, I took in a few more local landmarks. With all the mines and museums closed, I was restricted to ‘above ground’ sights. This is the entry to Wallangulla, or Old Town, – where the first opal rush boomed from 1906. Safety First
There are vents and pits everywhere: it pays to watch your step! Bottles and Tins
Some of the homes here are established and extensive, complete with solar hot water and electricity. Collected stone, glass bottles, and aluminum cans make inexpensive building supplies – and great insulators. The Ridge Castle
Next door, Ridge Castle, also built from found materials, operates as a holiday accommodation. Amigo’s Castle
Nearby, owner-built Amigo’s Castle usually offers tours. Private
Not everyone wants visitors! Shaft
The covers on open ventilation shafts are often makeshift. (iPhone12Pro) At Home in the Junk Yard Those beautiful old vehicles will continue to rust, until some imaginative local artist builds them into a sculpture, or a resourceful Ridge resident incorporates them into a home design.
Lightning Ridge is full of innovative and ingenious people, thriving in the harsh conditions around them.
I look forward to visiting again.
Until then!
Photos: 02-04March2021
Posted in Australia,Landscapes,TravelTags: Australia,drive,landscape,mining,Outback,Photo Blog,road trip,sculpture,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Thiruchirapalli Rock Fort
This dome-shaped cupola, floating high above the Tamil Nadu city of Thiruchirapalli, is typical of South Indian Dravidian temple architecture. Wherever you go in India, you will find colour and crowds, heat and history.
This is particularly true of South India where the humidity rolls in from the surrounding waters, and the distinctive Dravidian Hindu temples punctuate the cities.
Take, for example, the city of Tiruchirappalli (commonly known as Trichy or Tiruchi) in the middle of the southern state of Tamil Nadu. I was only there for a few hours with a small group en route from Thanjavur (see: Cottage Industries, Fine Arts, And A Chola Temple) to Madurai, but we managed to visit two famous temples – and we saw many others.
Our first stop was at Tiruchirappalli Rock Fort, also known as Malaikottai. The 3.8 billion year old rock this historic fort and temple complex perches on is said to be one of the oldest formations in the world: as old as the rocks in Greenland. The cave temple here dates somewhere between 580 and 630 CE, and the subsequent additions range as late as the 18th-century.
A short drive away, across the Kaveri River, the commanding Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple (Srirangam) is the largest temple complex in India. UNESCO has recognised it as the biggest functioning Hindu temple in the world, and has proposed the temple-town complex for World Heritage Listing.
Also known as Periyakovil (Big Temple), Bhooloka Vaikuntam, and Srirangam Tirupati, this temple is mentioned in literature dating between 500 BCE and 300 CE. It has been rebuilt and added to over the years – I have no idea how old most of the various sections I saw were.
By the time we stopped for lunch, my head was full of dates and details that I’ve long-since forgotten. I’ll spare you most of them, and let the pictures speak for themselves.
Rock Fort Temple
Tiruchirappalli’s fort sits far up over the street, on an 83 metre (272 ft) high rock. Street Musicians
Smiling young men with drums play as we walk up the narrow street. Temple in the Street
You are never far from a Hindu temple – the colourful gopuram (monumental entrance tower) of Sri Muthu Marri Amman Temple rises over the street. Steps up to the Rock Fort
It’s a long climb up the 344 steps that are cut into the stone that the Rock Fort sits on. (iPhone12Pro) View over Thiruchirapalli
From the top of the temple, there are wonderful views down over the city.
(iPhone12Pro) Thiruchirapalli Rooftops
Flat-topped multi-story buildings stretch out to the Kaveri River and beyond. Ucchi Pillayar Temple
At the top of the Rock Fort, this 7th Century temple is dedicated to the four-armed, elephant-headed Lord Ganesha. We passed a rather sad looking temple elephant before climbing up to this highest point. Couple on the Stairs
As I gingerly make my way back down the steep stairs, I’m happy to meet a young couple who want their picture made. (iPhone12Pro) Shop Front
Colourful little shops are full of soft drinks, candies, and packets of chips and peanuts. (iPhone12Pro) Saris and Shadows in the Street Icons behind the Gate
Walking back past Sri Muthu Marri Amman Temple, I pause to admire the colourful images of Hindu Gods. Street Musicians
Those drummers are still at it! In the Vegetables
The streets are a marketplace, where life, gossip, and transactions mix. Still Life Found – Bicycle Vegetable Seller
Another corner, another informal market! Chokos in the Vegetable Market
The fruit and vegetables look fresh and crisp – in spite of the heat. Srirangam Rajagopuram from the Street
A short drive away, across the river, we leave our bus to walk to the largest active Hindu temple-complex in the world. At 72 metres (236 feet), the 13-storied entrance gateway looms large. Elephant in the Street
It is hard to know where the temple starts and finishes. Inside the first entrance, we are still in what looks like “the city”. Another South Gate
The temple complex has 21 colourful, sculpted gopurams, and I lost track of how many we walked through. Lord Ranganatha
Inside the main complex, we are surrounded by ornate and colourful depictions of Gods – including this form of Vishnu, for whom the temple is named. Temple Pillars
Carved pillars are everywhere. Roof Detail The Vellai Gopura – The White Tower
This distinctive 9-storey gopura on the east side of the fourth enclosure is almost 44 metres (144 ft) tall. It was painted white in honour of a Devadasi (a female servant of a god) called Vellayi, who sacrificed her life to protect the idol of Namperumal from Sultanate forces who had invaded the temple in 1323. One of the 20 Candy-Coloured Gopuram From the Rooftops
Colour is everywhere. Shrine
Back inside one of the many darkened shrines, pilgrims and faithful make offerings and say prayers. Pilgrims
In Hinduism, red represents honour, love, and prosperity, and is a popular colour for pilgrims to wear. More Gods Temple Door
I love the beautifully carved heavy wooden doors that you find everywhere in Asia. Sesharaya Mandapam (Pillared Hall)
Built some time during the Nayaka rule (1529 to 1736), the north end of this hall features 40 beautifully carved war-like rearing horses with riders on their backs. (iPhone12Pro) White Frills
From inside the Sesharaya Mandapam, we can appreciate the details of the neighbouring Vellai Gopuram. Seated Man
This is a living temple – and people take their quiet time where they can find it. This ancient city truly has rich cultural heritage – too much for me to absorb in one morning!
 The relative quiet back in the bus was a peaceful relief – the chance to attempt to absorb and order some of the seemingly chaotic colour.
That’s India!
Photos: 25January2023
Posted in Architecture,India,Religious PracticeTags: architecture,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,hindu,hinduism,people,Photo Blog,religion,Religious Practice,sculpture,temple,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,worship
Walkway Into The Woods
There is something enchanting about a rainforest! This inland temperate rainforest in the Ancient Forest/Chun T’oh Whudujut Park in Canada’s British Columbia is home to old-growth western red cedars – many over a thousand years of age. I can just imagine Oberon, Titania, and Puck frolicking nearby – hidden by the dense pockets of undergrowth. Sometimes, individuals make a big difference.
In Canada’s British Columbia, the most-recently established Provincial Park helps protect trees that are among the province’s oldest.
About 114 km (71 mi) east of the small industrial city of Prince George, there remains a section of North American inland temperate rainforest. Pockets of humid forest patches survive in what is called the interior wet-belt, sheltered by two mountain ranges: the Columbia Range to the west and the Rockies to the east. This section, now called the Ancient Forest/Chun T’oh Whudujut Park, is believed to be the furthest temperate rainforest from an ocean (800 km / 497 mi) anywhere in the world. It houses old-growth trees, many thought to be well over 1000 years of age.
But, not so long ago, it was under threat from logging.
The Ancient Forest is within the traditional territory of the Lheidli T’enneh Nation who have inhabited the region since time immemorial. Lheidli people would visit the stands from summer fishing camps along the upper Fraser River as well as gather medicinal plants, some of which were thought to be extinct. The impact of residential schooling disrupted the strength of traditional practices, and many of the giants standing here were quietly earmarked for felling.
While conducting research on lichen biodiversity in 2005, Dave Radies – a University of Northern British Columbia graduate student – came across these impressive western red cedar trees, and alerted the relevant communities to the threat that they were under. With a lot of work, money, and collaboration between local hiking groups, the university, the First Nation people, and the Provincial Government, trails were developed to bring visitors to the site in an environmentally friendly manner – so that they might see the majestic cedars for themselves without causing undue further harm. The logging rights were finally cancelled in 2008, and in 2016 the the Provincial Park was established to protect this unique ecosystem.
One of the mighty cedars is called “The Radies Tree” in Dave Radies’ honour.
Earlier the same day, I had taken a short walk to a magnificent waterfall (see: Rearguard Falls), and I couldn’t help but marvel at how different these two neighbouring environments were!
Come for a short walk through some ancient giants:
Into the Ancient Forest
The main walkway into the rainforest is wonderfully accessible. In spite of that, I had the area to myself, and didn’t see another soul. Greenery in a Tree Stump
Everything is damp, and dark, and magical. New growth takes hold in old decay. Small Waterfall
Water trickles down through the fallen logs, tangled roots, and mossy, ferny undergrowth. “The Last Frontier – Life in the Canopy”
There are numerous signs along the walkway with useful and interesting information about the unique ecosystem we are walking through. Look Up!
The canopy is high above us. Western red cedars (Thuja plicata) typically grow to 60 metres (about 200 feet) tall. Moss Bubbles
Far below the canopy, the light is shady and filtered – making it the ideal home for all types of mosses. Ferns at Ground Level
Several types of ferns also thrive in the damp and shady understory: these are long beech ferns (Phegopteris connectilis), which grow in wet boreal and montane forests across Canada. “Guardians of the Rainforest”
These mighty cedars are surrounded by devil’s club (Oplopanax horridus), a plant that bushwalkers do well to avoid: they are covered in wicked spines coated in irritating oils that can penetrate all but the thickest clothing. Natures Artworks : Colours and Patterns in the Bark Nature’s Artworks : Mossy Textures Boardwalk
The elevated boardwalk might have been built for practical accessibility, with its stable and slip resistant surface, and its protected sides – but it still feels enchanted, with the tall, moss-covered trees pressing in close on all sides. Tiered Waters
Rivulets of water work their way down hill. Light in the Leaves
It’s a good thing I didn’t touch these leaves. I thought it was a young maple, but it is more devil’s club! Buttress Root System
Like many rainforest tree species, western red cedars can develop buttress roots. While it was thought that these help protect the massive trees against falling over, is is now believed that they help deliver oxygen to the roots in very wet soils. Fallen
Not all trees survive! Canopy
Those still standing stretch so far into the sky … Tall Trees
… that it is hard to appreciate – or photograph! (iPhone12Pro) Skunk Cabbage – Lysichiton Americanus
In the very wet ground around the waterways, skunk cabbage is growing. Used as a medicinal and an emergency food source, it doesn’t smell as badly when it’s not in bloom. Green and Gold
Gold dust lichens (Chrysothrix) decorate the textured bark of the cedars. These lichens are considered an indicator of good air quality. Bunchberry Dogwood – Cornus Canadensis
I always smile when I come across these pretty little shade-loving ground covers. Bracken Ferns – Pteridium False Solomon’s Seal – Maianthemum Racemosum The Radies Tree: Almost Loved to Death!
This is the base of Radies Tree, thought to be around 1000 years old. As I said earlier, the exposed buttress roots of western red cedars help them with oxygenation. When Radies first saw this tree in 2005, the exposed roots were protected by lichen and moss. By 2015, the feet of the many later visitors had worn the protective covering away, causing potential long-term damage. There is now a makeshift fence around the base, and signs request that people stay on the boardwalk. Natures Artworks – Patterns in Gold It is truly a magical place!
How lucky we are that it has been protected.
Tread Softly!
Photos: 31May2023
Posted in Canada,Nature,TravelTags: British Columbia,Canada,landscape,nature,Photo Blog,Provincial Park,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
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