 Orange Headdress and Dimples
The Pa’O (Black Karen) people are the second largest ethnic group in the Shan State of Myanmar. Inle Lake, in the Shan Hills in central Myanmar, is a unique environment.
I’ve written before about it’s floating villages (Life on the Water) and about it’s distinctive leg-rowing fishermen (Iconic Images). Most of the lake’s 70,000 residents live in villages and towns on the shore line, where everyday life includes bustling local markets and quiet Buddhist worship.
 Bridge over the Waterways
The villages around the lake are accessible only by boat. Indein (In Dein) Village is a short trip up the Indein River – one of the many rivers in and out of Inle Lake. My time on Inle Lake included a visit to Indein Village on the western bank, where the local Pa’O (Black Karen) people were conducting their market exchanges in the brilliant, slanting sunlight.
 Pa’O Hill People
Called Taungthu, which means ‘hill people’ in Burmese, the Pa’O are the seventh largest ethnic minority in Myanmar.  Pa’O Man
Forced to wear dark indigo-dyed clothing after the defeat of the Mon King Makuta of Thaton by King Anawratha in 1057, today the Pa’O are known for their brightly-coloured turbans. Pa’O Woman in Red
Considered part of the larger Tibetan-Himalayan ethnic family, the Pa’O have been in Myanmar since around 1000 B.C. Pa’O Market Woman
Called “Black Karen” by the British colonialists because of the dark blue or black clothing originally enforced on them by King Anawratha, the Pa’O share elements of language and culture with other Karen groups. A Face in the Crowd
The morning market is a busy place. Heads Together
Lively exchanges are happening everywhere. Woman Selling Greens Young Women Young Hill Tribe Women
The young women in the markets are happy to engage with us and to be photographed. Young Women Cooking Rice Cakes Monks with Begging Bowls
Wooden carved figurines are among the items for sale. Buddha-Head and Trinkets
Jewellery made from silver and semi-precious stones is also popular. Marionettes Into the Temple
Unlike many Karen groups, the Pa’O have been predominantly Buddhist for centuries. Old Stones
The area around Indein – sometimes known as Shan Bagan – is dotted with pagodas or stupas, begun in the 12th century and added to by Shan princes up until the 18th century. Artistic Ability
The corridors leading into the main temple house crafts-people and artisans. Pa’O Girls
It’s not hard to get the young women to take a break from their gift stalls… Pa’O Woman
… and pose for us, flashing their dimpled smiles. Dog at the Chedi Ruins
Many of the stupas or chedi are overgrown and falling into ruins, … Chedi Ruins
… which is probably not a bad thing, … Overgrown Stupas
… as there has been criticism of the quality of the restoration work being done. Fallen Statue Chedi in the Flowers Children at the Chedi Peacock Flowers (Caesalpinia Pulcherrima) Crumbling Chedi Boats on the Indein
Too soon, it is time to leave the village – by boat, of course. Some visitor-reports to TripAdvisor rue the state of the stupas around Indein Village. I think these people may have forgotten that they are not in a theme park: these monuments are built by, and for, the local people as an expression of their faith.
 We are merely visitors.
I am always amazed and pleased by the warmth of the smiling welcome that greets us.
Until next time ~
Pictures: 21September2012
Posted in Architecture,Every Day Life,Myanmar,PortraitsTags: architecture,blog,buddhism,children,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,market,Myanmar,people,Photo Blog,sculpture,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,worship
Tying a Turban
Rajasthan is known for it’s colourful turbans: the uniform turbans worn by the attendants in Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur are a case in point. Rajasthan is known for it’s colourful fabrics: especially the “crowning” turbans of the men which hark back to the Rajput land-owners and rulers. Traditionally, the size and style of the turban denoted status and rank, and different colours were worn for different purposes, like weddings and celebrations, or during different seasons.
Holy men in white or saffron turbans are still a common sight across India, but in Rajasthan every village, region, or workplace has its own fashion or style.
The male workers at Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur wear a turban as part of their uniform. During one of my visits there, with photographer Karl Grobl and local guide DV, I was treated to a demonstration of their turban-tying skill. In the days of royal courts, young women were employed to tie men’s turbans for them, but today, most men take pride in tying their own – taking care that none of the 25 meters of fabric touches the ground.
Mehrangarh Fort (2008)
High (120 metres – 400 feet) over the blue city of Jodhpur, the ancient fortress of Mihirgarh (“Sun Fort” in Sanskrit) protected a number of palaces and now houses historical museum galleries. Into the Shadows
At the entry to Mehrangarh Fort, Indian women wear a mix of modern and traditional clothing (Kameez – shirts or blouses – worn over Shalwar or leggings, with Dupatta multi-purpose scarves) in colourful fabrics. Of course, Saris are also common. Traditional Musicians
However they tie them, the men working around Mehrangarh Fort wear the same turbans in yellow, with green and red accents. Playing the Pipes
The Achkan, a knee length jacket, over trousers, completes their uniform. Guard at the Gate Man with a Hookah Arches on the Corridor
The hallways and corridors of Mehrangarh Fort are beautifully balanced and delicately carved. Tying a Turban
The brightly coloured turban cloths are 25 meters long, … Tying a Turban
… so getting one neatly wrapped takes time and help. Stating a Turban Finishing a Turban Turbaned
The finished product gets a pat-down… Men in Turbans Tying a Turban
One of the other men demonstrates a different style, … Setting the Turban
… getting it well settled on his head …
Intricate Turban
… before flashing us a big smile. Turban in a Window
The delicate filagree work around the windows is quite beautiful. Moti Mahal (2008)
The Moti Mahal, or Pearl Palace, inside the Mehrangarh Fort, is a stunning testament to the glorious Rathore dynasty. Elephant’s Howdah (2008)
One of the museum galleries contains some fine examples of the elaborate two-compartment wooden seats that were attached to the backs of elephants as chairs. Turban – 2008
The colours and patterns of the fabric in the “uniform turban”… Turban – 2013
… have changed over the years. Cloth Merchant
In a gift shop, a salesman in an elaborately waxed moustache and beard shows off a different style of turban. The Beard
Our hookah-smoking friend shows up at the exit to show off his beard to full advantage. Mother and Daughter
A mother and child share a drink before leaving the fort. On the Way Out
A family pauses on the walkway leading between the fort and Jodhpur below. 
It’s a glimpse into a world with a completely different sense of sartorial style.
Namaste!
Pictures: 15April2008 and 06November2013
Posted in India,Portraits,TravelTags: architecture,blog,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,museum,portrait,portraits,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Scenes from a Car Window (US-89 N)
Not far from the bright lights of Las Vegas, there are miles and miles of roads through arid, but stunning, landscapes. One of my Australian friends is heading to the States next month: “Las Vegas!” she told me, with some excitement.
Drinks over Las Vegas
Vegas is indeed a world apart: a resort city, known for gambling, shopping, drinking, dining and nightlife; … View from the Stratosphere – 1,149 ft (350.2 m) over Vegas
… an artificially created environment in the middle of the Mojave Desert, surrounded on all sides by mountains. Vegas Night Lights
The brightest city on earth, as viewed from space (or, in this case, from the Stratosphere), Vegas puts on a glittering display every night. (This is one of those many times I wished I had enough weight allowance to carry my tripod on my travels.) I guess it is an exciting city: there are bars and clubs, live entertainment of every description, and of course the gambling. But, after a day or so, I’m ready to escape. The best part of Vegas, in my mind, is that it is on the way to – or from – somewhere else.
One of those places is the nearby Grand Canyon: still on my bucket list.
But, it is also only two and a half hours of easy driving from Vegas to the magnificent Zion National Park, and then another two hours to Bryce Canyon National Park.
For me, these are much harder to resist than the One Armed Bandits – which are now button operated anyway. We hopped in the car and took highway I-15 N out of the city, out of Nevada, and across the corner of Arizona into Utah.
Housing on the Outskirts
Utah is one of the less-populous states – especially outside of its city centres. Small settlements dot the intersections of highways, and caravans or mobile homes sit surrounded by farm implements. View from a Bus
Like most of the National Parks that I have visited in the US, Zion is incredibly accessible. We parked our car and took one of the regular hop-on-hop-off shuttle buses (complete with commentary) that run up and down Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. Temples and Towers of the Virgin
The shuttle buses stop at popular attractions and at the heads of various walking tracks. Red Cliffs Rising
The red Navajo sandstone cliffs rise up all around the canyon. Weeping Rock
It’s a short, easy, walk from the shuttle to one of the park’s more popular spots: the Weeping Rock. Spring waters seep out of the rocks high overhead, raining down on the path below. Weeping Rock Frame
When you stand under the blind arch, the weeping rock frames the surrounding canyon. Weeping Rock Greenery
The constant, gentle flow of spring water ensures that the area around the arch is green with life. Columbine (Aquilegia chrysantha)
Ferns and flowers thrive in the wet, shaded areas. Scenes from the Roadside (US-89 N)
Rusted “still-life” objects provide visual interest as we continue our drive northeast. Desert “Garden”
I can’t resist stopping at the patches of prickly pear on the roadside. Prickly Pear in Flower
The flowers of the prickly pear (Opuntia phaeacantha) are both beautiful … Prickly Pear (Opuntia phaeacantha)
… and delicate. Scenes from a Car Window (US-89 N) Bighorn Sheep (Ovis Canadensis)
Keeping our eyes peeled against the red sandstone … Bighorn Sheep (Ovis Canadensis)
… we spot a mother bighorn sheep with her young. Scenes from a Car Window (US-89 N) Scenes from-a Car Window (US-89 N)
Different coloured buttes have their origins in different geological periods. Scenes from a Car Window (US-89 N)
The surrounding mountains cast long shadows over the landscape. Red Canyon (UT-12 E) Bryce Canyon
The massive walls of Bryce Canyon dwarf the people overlooking the hoodoos on the canyon floor. Visitors to Bryce Canyon
The light changes rapidly over the massive amphitheater. Hoodoos on the Canyon Floor
Far below on the canyon floor the colourful pinnacles can be up to 60 metres (200 feet) high. Pinnacles
The sedimentary rock of Bryce Canyon Amphitheatre was shaped into the delicate-looking hoodoos some 66 million years ago by frost and stream erosion. Pine Cones Nightfall (UT-24 E)
As the light falls at the end of the day, we dine on an outdoor table, overlooking more farm machinery and coloured hills. 
Dining al fresco as the sun goes down ~
I much prefer that to the bright lights of Vegas!
Happy Travels
Pictures: 13-14May2013
Posted in America,Landscapes,Nature,TravelTags: America,blog,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,USA
Regensburg Streets
Ancient history, charming buildings, and quirky shops attract tourists to the charming little Bavarian city of Regensburg. The cities of Europe – even those which are lesser known to those of us who spend little time there – are fascinating for their charm and their long and rich history.
Regensburg, sitting at the confluence of the Danube, Naab and Regen Rivers, has been the centre of trade, political battle, and religious turmoil since the Stone Age. Located at the northern-most point of the Danube, Regensburg became the site of an important Roman encampment as early as 90AD.
Believed to be the seat of bishops from late Roman times, it is certain that the Bishopric of Regensburg was formally (re-) established in 739. Part of the Duchy of Bavaria from early 6th century and the capitol of Bavaria until the 13th century, Regensburg was also important during the reign of Charlemagne, and had a pivotal role in early Catholicism. Even after the city adopted the Protestant Reformation in 1542, the town remained the seat of a Roman Catholic bishop and several abbeys.
With the building of the Stone Bridge across the Danube in the middle of the 1100’s, Regensburg became a major centre of international trade, the local centre of culture, and renowned for gold work and fine fabrics.
During WWII, the city was home to an oil refinery and a Messerschmitt Bf 109 aircraft factory. In spite of this, strategic bombing on these targets by the Allied Forces left the medieval city centre nearly intact. This left a “notable number of historic structures span[ning] some two millennia and includ[ing] ancient Roman, Romanesque and Gothic buildings”, and resulted in the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Site listing today.
Tourists on the Canal
Regensburg, one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval cities, is ranked among Germany’s top tourist sights. Today, many international tourists arrive by canal boats and take walking tours through the old town centre. “Fragments of Memories”
A memorial plaque on the Danube River at Regensburg names the emigrant ships that docked here in the 1700’s. East Tower of Porta Praetoria
The Romans had their first fort in Regensburg from 90AD. Roman Fort Castra Regina (“Fortress by the River Regen”), originally built in 179, had an entry gate in each wall, with each gate flanked by two massive towers. Porta Praetoria
In 1885, the remains of the Porta Praetoria, dating back to ancient Roman times, were rediscovered when the Bischofshof Brewery, built on the site some time later, was being renovated. Roofline
From the cobbles to rooftops, history is in the stones all around. City-Map Diorama
Gudhorn, a local guide, points out the old-city features to her walking group. Regensburg Housing
Even the modern housing, on the other side of the river, has charm. The Alte Würstküche
The “Old Sausage Kitchen” is reputedly Germany’s oldest restaurant: every day, staff in the 900 year-old building make and serve 6,000 sausages – with sauerkraut and mustard – to customers. Men at Coffee
As is the case across Europe, much business is conducted in the coffee shops, in the streets. David and Goliath
… past a mural of David and Goliath, originally painted by Melchior Bocksberger in 1573, on a building which stands in the place of an old 12th century inn in the “goliards” – a Goliathhaus: a word which, ironically, has nothing to do – etymologically – with the Goliath story. Old Regensburg
A walk down Goliathstraße – “Goliath Street” – towards Haidplatz (Meadow or Heath) Square, leads, naturally enough … Balcony
Everywhere, the old buildings have fresh paint and fresh flowers. Statue of Don Juan de Austria
Oh, how complicated are the royal houses of Europe! Don Juan de Austria (Don John of Austria), who was born near here in 1547, was the illegitimate son of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, heir to three of Europe’s leading dynasties and King of Germany, Italy and Spain, with Barbara Blomberg, a young Regensburg woman. Don Juan was well schooled, and was later recognised officially as an heir. Old-Town Plaza
The plaza around the Old Town Hall is a pleasant place to gather. Old Town Hall
Parts of the Old Town Hall itself date back to the 14th century. Bay Window
The window and door details on the Old Town Hall are intricate and beautiful. Arched Courtyard
Everywhere around the Old Town Hall plaza, there are colourful nooks and crannies. Dirndles for Sale
Traditional clothing styles are experiencing a revival, and modern shops feature the Bavarian dresses in up-to-date fabrics. Home of Reformation Discussions
More accidental history: Philipp Melanchthon (Schwartzerdt), follower and friend of Martin Luther, leader of the Lutheran Reformation, held discussions with Dr. Johann Maier von Eck, defender of Roman Catholicism in this house in 1541. The Lutherans (Protestants) won. Schindler’s House
The city takes pride in the fact that Oskar Schindler, saviour of over 1200 Jews, lived here for a period of time after the war. Another Clock Tower
More cobbled streets and archways lead to the famous 12th-century stone bridge . Regensburg Cathedral
The Romanesque Cathedral of St. Peter was originally begun in 1273 and completed in 1525, with ongoing additional touches and restorations through to the 2000s. “Hutkönig” the Hat King
With an extensive range of men’s and women’s millinery, the “Hutmacher am Dom” got our complete attention for as long as it took to find the perfect style and fit. “2000 Years”
A modern sculpture incorporating 200 fish – to represent 2000 years of Regensburg history – also marked our return to our boats. Wandering around an old city is a great way to learn some history –
And to acquire a new hat!
Happy Rambles!
Pictures: 18August2014
Posted in Architecture,Germany,History,TravelTags: architecture,bavaria,blog,gremany,history,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
Sisterly Care
Young girls smile unselfconsciously for the visitors as they fix each others hair on the front stoop of a blue Jodhpur house. India!
Hot air and warm smiles.
Chaos everywhere: trash and cow pats underfoot, birds overhead, and roadways crowded with pedestrians, cows, cars, and bikes all around.
But it’s the colour that I love…
And the natural grace of the people: everywhere you look there are people, young and old, draped on doorsteps or leaning against walls, their faces open and staring – or smiling – at the visitors, seemingly just waiting to be photographed against the weathered, textured, colourful walls of their cities.
Jodhpur is Rajasthan’s “Blue City”. Houses in the older sections of the city – around the 15th century Mehrangarh Fort – are predominantly painted blue. Most guides will tell you that these houses belong to Brahmins, the “purest” of Indian castes: traditionally the priests and guardians of Hindu religious rituals and spiritual knowledge. Other sources suggest that the blue is more than just indigo tint, but includes the addition of copper sulphate aimed at eradicating termites.
Whatever the reason, the old city’s walls and doors are alive with colour – as I rediscovered on a wander throughout the streets and up to the rooftops of the ancient city with Photographer Karl Grobl and guide DV Singh late on a November afternoon.
Stand-Off!
Typical Indian chaos: as we try to make our way up the hill to Jodhpur’s Old City, our bus is completely blocked by traffic and roadworks. Smaller vehicles sneak past on either side, leaving us motionless for a very long time. Eventually, our guide got off our bus, engaged in several altercations with other drivers, and eventually guided our driver through the mess. Of course, we’d have to come back the same way later! Woman in the Street
Meanwhile, people on the street watch on, … Watchers in the Street
… fascinated by the strangers in the bus. Corridors and Lane Ways
Finally! Our bus gets us up to the old city, where we wander the streets and lane ways on foot. Bike and Textures Woman at the Window
Blues and greens frame the faces of the neighbourhood. Wires hang everywhere. Kids in the Doorway
A family poses spontaneously at their window: … Kids in the Doorway
… always ready to smile at the strangers. Textured Doorway Rubbish in the Lane Ways Waving at the Strangers Boys on the Stoop Boys at the Doorway Woman at a Doorway Old Jodhpur Street Woman on her Porch Woman in a Window
As the Autumn sun starts lowering, we are welcomed up to the roof-top of one of the homes. Mehrangarh Fort
From the roof, we have a view over the blue-painted houses around the Mehrangarh Fort. Dog on a Wall
Rocky walls, brambles, and piles of rubbish are also on view from our rooftop. Textured Rooftops Men on the Rooftop Man on the Roof Chai Dishes
We were treated to chai… Our Chai Wallah
… made for us by the son of a prominent Brahmin: a dedicated engineering student at a local university. Blue Walls in the Afternoon
In the lowering light, the blue of the walls around us seems deeper. Chai, chaos and colour…
That’s India.
Namaste!
Pictures: 05November2013
Posted in Architecture,India,Portraits,TravelTags: architecture,blog,children,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,India,people,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,rajasthan,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
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