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The Walls of the Kasbah
Chefchaouen, in northwest Morocco, leans into the mountains around it. Founded in 1471, this fortress was built to defend against potential Portuguese invaders coming through the Strait of Gibraltar to the north.
Walking through history is so much more interesting than attempting to study it at school! Old stone walls have such stories to tell.
Chefchaouen in Morocco’s Rif Mountains was originally founded as a defensive fortress in 1471 – at a time when Portugal was attacking northern cities and towns in the region. The mossy, rammed earth (pisé) walls of the medieval kasbah built at that time still stand after centuries of civic growth and cultural change.
Chefchaouen is known for its Andalusi architecture and the distinctive blue-washed walls in the medina – the old city – that grew up around the kasbah. Both of these elements speak to the area’s history. When the Catholic Monarchs of Spain reclaimed the Iberian Peninsula with the fall of Granada in 1492, they effectively ended the long Islamic rule over southern Portugal and Spain. Non-Christians were heavily taxed; forced conversions were not uncommon; and the entire Jewish community was expelled.
Many of these displaced people ended up in the mountains of northern Morocco, and they brought their Andalusi architectural style with them to towns like Chefchaouen,.
The blue paint comes much later. Some say it represents the colour of the Mediterranean Sea which sits just north of the mountains (eg: Chefchaouen the blue one!). Others claim it symbolises the importance of the Ras el-Maa waterfall, where the city’s inhabitants get their drinking water. Practical suggestions are that the blue keeps the city cooler in summer and repels mosquitos. In what is perhaps the prevailing view, many attribute the colour to the wave of Jewish refugees who arrived here from Hitler’s Europe in the 1930s (see: Morocco’s Blue Pearl).
Whatever the reasons, the aesthetic and the history both make the city a delight to explore!
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Winding Blue Lanes
After arriving late evening the day before, our little group was out early for a walking tour of the town – starting outside our riad in the old medina.
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Jama’ al-Kebir – Grand Mosque of Chefchaouen
We walk through the Plaza Uta el Hammam, the heart of the medina. The gentle rain washes the tidy square where we have views of the city’s oldest, most central house of worship, and the cafés and restaurants that – later in the day – will be bustling with life.
Entry to the Kasbah
We also pass the 15th-century fortress that gave the city its start. I planned to visit during my free time later in the day.
Arched Doorway
Bright blue paint and colourful tiles feature everywhere in the medina.
Just a Cat in a Stairwell
Beautiful wrought-iron metal-work contrasts with old pisé walls.
Rough Chefchaouen Walls
The rough textures all around demonstrate the age of the city …
Blue and White
… while the fresh paint and beautiful patterns speak to local pride.
Lamp on the Corner
Mosaic Kitchenware and Serving Ware
There are plenty of shops in the medina allowing tourists to take a little of the city home with them.
Traditional Communal Bakery
People in these villages took their breads to the local oven for baking. In this instance, the baker is roasting peanuts for a young girl.
City Water Fountain
Back in the Plaza Uta el Hammam, life goes on in the rain.
Said
Our guide bids us adieu for the day.
“Into the Kasbah”
Following a rest, I head back out to visit the fortress. Although “Come with me to the Casbah” was never actually said in the 1937 film Algiers, I still think of black and white movies when I hear the word. The entry to this 15th century fort in Chefchaouen has all the charm you could want!
Inside the Kasbah
The Andalusian garden in the interior courtyard is thriving in the autumn rain.
Ancient Walls through a 15th Century Window
I pay the modest entry fee and set off to explore.
View from the Citadel Tower
There are ten original rammed-earth towers in the kasbah walls, and one rubble-masonry tower with cut stone corners which was probably added in the 16th century. Not all the towers are open, but I climb up where I can to enjoy the views over the blue city.
A Classic Moorish Arch
The typical Moroccan horseshoe-arched windows let in plenty of light
Looking Out and Looking Back
Modest displays around the fort tell the story of Chefchaouen and the Rif people.
Rooftops
Blue and Green from the Windows
Prison Entry
Back at ground-level, I get a peek into the dark, windowless prison area.
On the Ramparts
The kasbah ramparts, by contrast, seem to touch the sky.
Riad
In the northeast corner of the kasbah, there is a riad – a traditional Moroccan house built around a courtyard – probably added in the late 17th century. Today, the ground floor here houses a modest museum.
Tools of the Trade
The exhibits focus on archeological objects found nearby, …
15th Century Woodworking
… and also detail how traditional tools and materials are used in restoration efforts.
Central Chefchaouen
Back in the square, the light is falling and the touts are out spruiking their restaurants.
Art Store
As I wait for my meal in an open café, I watch the vender opposite try to display his wares without them being damaged in the continuing rain.
Chefchaouen is an absolute gem of a little city!
And certainly one I would go back to.
Until next time,
Happy Wandering!
Photos: 16October2024
