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A Family on the Fort
Fort Belgica was built on Banda Neira by the Dutch from 1611 to protect their colonial interests in rare endemic spices. The volcanic mountain, Gunung Api, rises up behind an Indonesian family who have made the long ferry trip from Jakarta to visit the island.
When you travel, you meet people who travel.
I was in Morocco on a small group tour. When I mentioned my planned trip to Raja Ampat and the Spice Islands, one of my travel-companions insisted: “You must read Nathaniel’s Nutmeg: How One Man’s Courage Changed the Course of History.“
Naturally, I complied – although it meant ordering a used copy of Giles Milton’s book online.
I’m not big on non-fiction, and I found the book slow-going, regardless what the breathless writers of the jacket reviews suggested.
But, I was in the very region – the Maluku Islands of Indonesia – where the endemic presence of nutmeg, mace, and cloves lead to hundreds of years of European interests and atrocities. I hadn’t yet finished the book when we anchored in Banda Neira, the centre of this bloody history (see: In and On the Banda Sea). Fortunately, lectures aboard our small ship, the Coral Geographer, helped fill in the blanks.
Since as early as 1400 BCE, nutmeg and other spices from the Banda Islands were known for their antimicrobial features, their ability to preserve food, and and their health benefits. In 10th century Venice, a pound of nutmeg was worth more than a pound of gold.
For hundred of years, the Banda Islands were ruled by a local oligarchy known as the Orang Kaya (Rich People). They made their money selling spice and other precious goods to Chinese and Arab traders, who sold them on to European markets while closely guarding the secret of the source. The Portuguese were the first known Europeans to visit these islands – in the early 1500s – but while they conquered much of Malacca, they were distracted away from the Banda Islands by difficulties in the rest of the archipelago.
Then came the Dutch – who took control.
The Dutch formed an uneasy partnership with the Bandanese until the Orang Kaya on Banda Neira rebelled in 1609. The Dutch retaliated with a brutal campaign against the local people. In the course of this long campaign, the Dutch built Fort Belgica on Banda Neira in 1611. This was to intimidate the Orang Kaya who were unhappy with their dealings with the Dutch, and to ward off the English who had established themselves on the nearby island of Run. Ultimately, the Dutch won; their 1621 conquest culminated in the Banda Massacre.
In order to maintain spice production after the almost-complete genocide of the local people, the Dutch imported slaves from other parts of modern-day Indonesia, India, and the coast of China.
Today, the wealth is gone. The English succeeded in transplanting nutmeg trees to their other tropical colonies in the 1700s, effectively breaking the Dutch monopoly on trade.
Life today is quiet: focusing on fishing, spice cultivation, and a fledgeling tourism industry. Most of the residents of the Banda Islands are descended from those forcibly-imported plantation labourers and the few remaining indigenous Bandanese. This has lead to a distinctive local cultural identity, with ritual practices and elements of language distinguishing it from the neighbouring Ambonese Malay.
Join me as I explore Banda Neira:
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Banda Neira Village
Our tenders transfer us the short distance from our ship. The buildings on the island cling to the shoreline below the steep jungle-clad hillside.
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Steps to Banda Neira Village
The dock we use is rather informal: a set of concrete steps leading up to a grass reception area surrounded by Dutch colonial buildings.
Girls on the Dock
The local children are amused by our presence and horse around on a nearby pontoon for our entertainment.
The Band
A traditional percussion gamelan quartet plays music to welcome us.
Cutting the Beans
Out in the village streets, everyday life goes on.
Local Store
These little shops, packed to the rafters with goods for sale, are common all across Asia.
History on the Walls
This well-worn mural depicts four national Indonesian figures: the country’s first Vice President Mohammad Hatta, the first Prime Minister Sutan Syahrir, historian, diplomat, and Banda Neira native Des Alwi, and Hamad B. Husain, another local figure from the Banda Islands.
Young Child
Children are everywhere – and full of life and mischief.
Hen and Chick
A Municipal Park
The central boulevard through town is green and tree-shaded, and dotted with monuments.
Gereja Tua – Old Church
This historic church was built in 1852 by the Dutch East India Company (VOC). It was renovated in 2005 and is still in use.
Inside the Dutch Church
The simple interior features wooden pews and ancient flagstones marking the resting places of former Dutch governors of the island.
Benteng Belgica
The town’s centrepiece is Fort Belgica, …
Doorway to Benteng Belgica
… a modest square fort commenced by the Dutch in 1611.
Man on the Fort
The fort itself is not much to look at …
Gunung Api – Mount Api
… but the views over the volcanic island next door are great.
Ketapang (Terminalia Catappa) Leaves Overhead
I walk down from the fort through the spice groves, …
On the Path through the Spice Trees
… pausing to chat to some local children on the way.
Fiddle-Leaf Frangipani – Plumeria Pudica
The streets on the other side of the fort are tidy and full of greenery.
Selling Fish
There were surprises around every corner!
Lapas Banda – Banda Prison
The Dutch ruled over the Banda Neira until 1949, and Dutch colonial architecture is everywhere.
Nutmeg and Other Local Spices
This is what all the fuss was about! In the 1700 and 1800s, the British transplanted nutmeg trees into Ceylon and other British colonies – effectively breaking the Dutch monopoly over nutmeg and mace.
Kids on the Green
A couple of hours later, after a shower and change of clothes on the ship, I was back on the island for evening festivities at the fort.
On the Battlements
At Benteng Belgica, our ship’s passengers and locals are gathered around for the early evening festivities.
Warriors
Two young men perform a local sword dance.
Picking Nutmeg
Another local dance shows young couples collecting nutmeg kernels from the endemic Myristica fragrans trees.
Harvesting Nutmeg
Woman on the Battlements
Woman and Child
Our Ship in the Twilight
From Fort Belgica, we can watch the light falling over our ship in the harbour; it’s time to return for dinner.
The smiling welcome I was treated to by all the locals I met certainly belies their unfortunate and bloody history.
Here’s hoping they can successfully carry their own hopes and dreams into the future.
Until next time.
Pictures: 03April2025
