Yellow everlasting on a mountainside overlooking the Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Western Ghats, India

Everlastings, Tea, and Mountains Forever …
The world’s highest tea plantation sits at 2400 m (7900 ft) in the Western Ghats of South India. This is the Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, which straddles the border between Kerala and Tamil Nadu. At top of the estate – only accessible by 4×4 jeep – the views go on forever.

High in the Western Ghats of South India they grow tea.

The Kerala Tourism Organisation says the micro-climate at these altitudes produces a tea of exceptional quality with a distinctive flavour profile that sets it apart from other teas.

I’m not a tea drinker, so I can’t comment on that – but I can attest to the beauty of the location.

I had a week staying near the town of Munnar in Kerala, South India and had lined up various excursions for myself and my driver (eg: Where the Jungle Meets the Tea). A visit to the Kolukkumalai Tea Estate was high on my list.

Kolukkumalai is only about 30 kilometres from Munnar, but access to the higher reaches of the estate is exclusively by special 4×4 jeeps. My driver organised this for me and he happily tagged along.

The estate also offers a traditional tea factory visit the on the site, which I didn’t sign up for as I already had plans for a different tour (Watch this space!).

Join me on a bumpy ride high into the lush green highland plantations of the Western Ghats.

View of a road into the lower part of the Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, India

Scenes From A Jeep: Heading into the Plantation
The entry to the tea plantation is manicured and tidy.

Tall eucalyptus trees along a narrow roadway, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, India

Tall Eucalyptus
I was surprised to see Australian gum trees along the boundary of the tea plantation – but apparently eucalyptus forests are often planted in these mountainous regions.

A smiling tea picker in a green estate, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

A Sea of Green
As we drive up into the tea plantation itself, the tea plants (Camellia sinensis) stretch out in tidy rows.

Close-up: Freshly picked tea leaves in a basket, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

Tea Leaves
The pickers are skilled labourers who hand-select “two leaves and a bud” from each plant to ensure the best flavor.

A smiling tea picker, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

Tea Picker
Picking tea is a meticulous, highly skilled, and hard process – but the workers have ready smiles for visitors.

Workers carrying tea leaves, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

At the Tea Plantation
The work doesn’t end when you have filled your basket: the tea has to get back to the factory somehow! I spent a summer in my youth picking strawberries (badly), so I have great admiration for and empathy with these workers.

Workers carrying tea leaves, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

Large Loads

A small 4wd on a rocky road up to the Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

The Road to High Tea
The upper plantation is only accessible by jeep. We had swapped our sedan for a 4WD with a designated driver who warned me to sit up straight and hold on. Even with my phone, it was almost impossible to take pictures as I bounced and jolted around the back seat. The road – if you can call it that – is a series of rocks, ruts, cracks, and potholes. And it got continually worse!

Views down over the Western Ghats, tea bushes and dirt roads, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

Winding Roads
But the views! Looking back down the hill, you can see the dirt roads zig-zagging their way up through the tea bushes.

Low cloud over the Western Ghats, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

Rhododendrons over the Jagged Peaks
At the top of the mountain, rhododendron bushes cling to the rocks and Tamil Nadu stretches out into the mists before us.

Blooming, Mysore St. John

Mysore St. John’s Wort – Hypericum Mysurense
These shrubs are native to the higher elevations of South India and Sri Lanka.

A man overlooking the Western Ghats to Munnar, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

Taking in the View
The jeep driver might have done this hundreds of times, but he still took the time to appreciate the view back down to the rivers entering Munnar far below.

Red rhododendron flowers, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

Nilgiri Rhododendron – Rhododendron Arboreum subsp. Nilagiricum

Rhododendron bush on a cliff side, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

Flowers on the Edge
The rhododendron bushes cling to the most improbable places!

Jagged rock, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

Lion Rock

Group shot: three women, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

People along the Way
Other visitors to the mountaintop want to have their pictures taken with me.

Nilgiri tahr high on a distant mossy mountain, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

Nilgiri Tahr
High on a neighbouring peak – out of range of my eyes and camera – a number of the endangered endemic mountain goats clamber over the rocks.

Views down over the Western Ghats, tea bushes and dirt roads, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala, India

Over the Tea and Foothills

Indian men posing next to a green jeep, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Kerala

Two Drivers : One Mahindra Jeep
The jeep driver and Rajesh, my regular driver, pose next to the Indian-made vehicle that got us up the mountainside.

Inside the Kolukkumalai Tea House on the mountaintop, India

Kolukkumalai Tea House
The tea house is quiet – but I do manage to get a cup of coffee.

Looking over the Kolukkumalai Tea Factory from the mountaintop, Kerala India

Making Tea
The green-roofed building on the mountainside opposite us is the historic Kolukkumalai Tea Factory. It was built by the British in the 1930s and still produces organic tea in the traditional manner.

Colourful strawflowers, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Western Ghats, India

Strawflowers – Xerochrysum Bracteatum
I love strawflowers – also known as paper daisies or everlastings.

Yellow strawflowers with tea plantations behind, Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, Western Ghats, India

Everlasting Views
Although strawflowers are native to Australia, they have become common in high-altitude regions of the Western Ghats, particularly around the hill stations.

The Tamil Nadu side of the Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, India

Over the Kolukkumalai Tea and Silver Oak
Silver oak (Grevillea robusta) is planted among the tea bushes to anchor the soil and provide some sun protection to the precious tea leaves. It is another Australian import.

Of course, the journey back down the mountain was as bumpy as the climb up!

But the trip through the lush green highland plantations and up into the magnificent Western Ghats was worth every bruise.

Text: Happy Roads!

Until next time,

Happy Roads!

Pictures: 07February2023

A young male lion in green grass; Nakuru City in the distance, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Young Male Lion Surveying his Domain
Kenya’s Lake Nakuru National Park – about 164 kilometres (102 mi) north of Nairobi – protects a number of vulnerable animal populations and part of a unique UNESCO-listed lake system. Nakuru City sits on its boundary.

I was excited about my first day in East African parks. In the few hours we had spent driving around Kenya’s Lake Nakuru National Park, we had seen two of the Big Five and numerous other magnificent wild animals. 

The centrepiece and raison d’être of the park, of course, is the lake, known for its abundant birdlife. The lake sits high in the Rift Valley, 1,754 m (5,755 ft) above sea level. Where there was once a single, deep freshwater lake, there is now a system of three relatively shallow alkaline bodies of water: Lakes Nakuru, Bogoria, and Elementaita. As a group (Kenya Lake System of the Great Rift Valley), they were inscribed by UNESCO in 2011, and were called “a natural property of outstanding beauty…”.

Nakuru is in a endorheic basin with no outflow, and in recent years the waters have been rising alarmingly. This has resulted in the displacement of animals and the destruction of property – including the submersion of the main entrance gate and other park infrastructure.

It also meant we had to keep an eye on the skies: afternoon rains could wipe out our access to already-marginal dirt roads.

Still, we enjoyed a lot of animal sightings (see: In Search of the Five #1) and, although I missed out on the fabled flamingos because the winds came up, I did add to my bird count. 

I also added to my sightings of the Big Five and the Ugly Five!

Join me around the waters of Lake Nakuru:

View down a dirt road to Lake Nakuru, Kenya

Scenes from a Land Cruiser
A dirt road – vulnerable to the rains and the rising waters – winds down to the lake and disappears.

A full and brown Makalia Falls, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Makalia Falls
Because of the recent rains, this little waterfall at the extreme southern end of the park is brown with runoff soil.

Two common warthogs in green grass, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Common Warthogs – Phacochoerus Africanus
Nearby, we spot examples of the Ugly Five.

Warthogs wallowing in a mud puddle, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Wallowing Warthogs (Phacochoerus Africanus)
The abundance of rain means there are large puddles everywhere, and the animals don’t have to congregate at the main waterholes to drink or cool off.

Cape buffalo wallowing in a mud puddle, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Wallowing Buffalo
Not far away, another mud puddle is being appreciated by a large Cape buffalo (Syncerus Caffer Caffer).

An African spoonbill in green vegetation, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

African Spoonbill – Platalea Alba
There are always special pictures I didn’t get! When we arrived at the edge of the lake, three flamingos were standing – perfectly reflected in the still waters. My driver, however, was determined to turn the vehicle around. By the time he did, the wind had come up to ruffle the surface of the water, the flamingos had scattered, and I had to content myself with other birds.

Marabou storks at water

Marabou Storks – Leptoptilos Crumenifer
These large birds certainly qualify for their place on the Ugly Five list!

Black-headed heron in green vegetation, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Black-Headed Heron – Ardea Melanocephala

Many great white pelicans and three wading flamingos, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Flamingos and Great White Pelicans (Pelecanus Onocrotalus)
Lake Nakuru is known for its thousands – sometimes millions – of flamingos: lesser flamingos and greater flamingos. I had to settle for these three – and I’m not sure which kind they are.

African sacred ibis drying its wings, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

African Sacred Ibis – Threskiornis Aethiopicus

Bald eagle high in a fever tree, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Bald Eagle in a Fever Tree
I know: the eagle is almost invisible, but I love the elegant beauty of these trees.

Olive baboons on a Lake Nakuru National Park direction sign, Kenya

Olive Baboons – Papio Anubis
The baboons are quite at home on the direction signs.

Portrait: an olive baboon in foliage, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

In the Foliage

Portrait: an olive baboon on a dirt road, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Baboon Crossing
The animals know they have right-of-way; they are completely unperturbed by our vehicle.

Environmental portrait: Man in a Land Cruiser window, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Guides Passing
The drivers and guides all know each other, and always stop to compare notes about what they have seen and which animals are where.

Lions and cubs in the road, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Lions in the Road
This was amazing! Three lionesses were trying to herd ten cubs onto the road.

Lions and cubs in the road, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Herding Cats
The guides believed that because the rains were imminent, the mothers wanted their very-new cubs out of the undergrowth where they would get soaked and soggy. Make sure the volume is up on the following short clip:

Young male lion, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Young Male
This male was some distance away from the females and cubs, and is too young to likely have had anything to do with them.

A herd of Defassa waterbucks, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Defassa Waterbucks – Kobus Ellipsiprymnus Defassa
A herd of large antelopes grazes among the acacias.

A young male Defassa waterbuck, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Male Defassa Waterbuck – Kobus Ellipsiprymnus Defassa
One young male watches us closely – or is he posing? Young males are usually chased out of the main herd as soon as they start developing horns, and group themselves into bachelor herds.

Vervet monkeys on a wire fence, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Vervet Monkeys – Chlorocebus Pygerythrus

A row of submerged power lines behind dead trees and pelicans, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Pelicans and Dead Trees
Back at the lake, the wind is rising and the rains are close. The effects of the rising water levels – attributed to climate change – are evident. The waters have increased the lake’s reach, swallowed park infrastructure, and killed vegetation. 

Yellow-billed storks, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Yellow-Billed Storks – Mycteria Ibis
These large and long-legged African storks feed in the shallows and mudflats at the lake’s edge.

A clump of great white pelicans, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Great White Pelicans – Pelecanus Onocrotalus
These massive waterbirds fascinated me; the are quite different in shape and colouring to the Australian pelicans on my estuary at home.

The afternoon was turning to evening, and the impending rain threatened to turn dirt roads to mud. We bid farewell to this delightful park and pointed the Land Cruiser toward town and the evening’s accommodation.

The next day, we had an early morning start for the long drive to the legendary Maasai Mara National Reserve.

Text: Happy Roads!Until then,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 11May2026

A Grant

The Big and the Beautiful
Many people go to Kenya’s Lake Nakuru National Park in search of the Big Five – which include the unpredictable and dangerous African (Cape) buffalo populating the background of this landscape. I personally prefer the graceful animals of the plains – like this elegant Grant’s zebra (Equus quagga boehmi), the smallest of the plains zebras.

There is so much more to Kenya than just the animals.

But, as I was going there anyway, not taking advantage of the game parks seemed a waste – especially as it had been many years since I had visited an African national park (see: Etosha, Namibia).

I was signed onto a photographic trip to Kenya’s northern tribal villages (Watch this space!), and decided to arrive early and take myself on a game safari through some of East Africa’s National Parks. With the benefit of comparison sites, I found a ten-day safari through five parks, starting in Nairobi, Kenya at the crack of dawn, and ending in Arusha, Tanzania mid-afternoon.

The company I booked through provided no input on before- and after-arrangements, so I found an overnight accommodation close to the airport on Booking.com for the night before my 7am collection. I arrived into Nairobi, full of optimism – only to discover that my ‘taxi driver’ needed my GoogleMaps to find the hotel. When we finally arrived after a few loops around the airport expressway, the gate security staff at the complex had no idea what we were talking about, and the phone number I had been given wasn’t answering. 

So – off to another hotel – and onto the task of sending messages to every number I could find for the Safari company to make sure the driver knew where to find me the next day.

After that inauspicious start, I was pleased to be collected on time in the morning – albeit into a grubby (but serviceable) Land Cruiser for the four-hour drive north-west: into the edges of the Rift Valley and almost to the equator.

Once there, we entered Lake Nakuru National Park.

This park is known for its abundant wildlife – especially the myriad of birds around the alkaline lake itself, which sits at 1,754 m (5,755 ft) above sea level. In 2011, the Kenya Lake System of the Great Rift Valley, which includes Lake Nakuru – along with Lake Bogoria and Lake Elementaita – was inscribed by UNESCO as “a natural property of outstanding beauty…”.

We had a picnic lunch overlooking the lake, and a full afternoon of exploring the muddy ‘roads’ before pulling into the night’s accommodation in the outskirts of Nakuru City.

Join me for Part One of our drive to and around Lake Nakuru:

Sunrise through glass, Kozi Suites, Nairobi

Nairobi Sunrise
Because Nairobi sits just below the equator, sunset and sunrise from the top-floor restaurant of my modest hotel were both dramatic and quick.

Overlooking the Rift Valley, Kenya

Overlooking the Rift Valley
One of my most vivid childhood memories is the televised program about how the Leakeys found the remains of the Australopithecine they named Lucy. This is the place: the cradle of humanity!

Colourful stone elephants, Lari Constituency, Kenya

Elephants at the Souvenir Stand
It feels wrong to be considering souvenirs on day one of a trip – but who could resist?

Shopfronts on a dirt slip road, Narok County, Kenya

Scenes from a Land Cruiser
The highway we are on is smooth enough, and full of vehicles – but modernity falls away at the verge. The shoulders and slip roads are all dirt and mud puddles, and shopfronts are mostly colourfully painted concrete blocks.

A female ranger with an automatic weapon, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Lake Nakuru Park Ranger on the Job
We finally reach the entrance to the National Park, where the rangers are well armed. Kenya has a “shoot-to-kill” poaching prevention strategy, which has greatly reduced the problem in the country.

Superb starling in leaf litter, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Superb Starling – Lamprotornis Superbus
I always get excited by my first animals – even when they are birds! These cheeky little beauties are so prevalent that they were almost picked to be Kenya’s national bird.

Overlooking Lake Nakuru, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Lake Nakuru
Once part of a deep freshwater lake, Nakuru is in a endorheic basin with no outflow. As a consequence, it has become a soda or alkaline lake which hosts a diversity of birdlife. We stopped for an early lunch at a picnic site overlooking the rising waters.

Toilet paper plant, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Toilet Paper Plant – Plectranthus Barbatus
Our lunch stop gives me the chance to examine the local flora. These plants were traditionally used for toilet paper and sanitary products. The leaves are naturally antibacterial and have a fresh, herbal scent.

Close up: thorns and leaves of a fever tree, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Fever Tree – Vachellia Xanthophloea
Early European settlers blamed this tree – rather than the mosquitoes that shared the swampy ground it often grows in – for malaria. The thorns are deadly!

Yellow African daisies, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

African Daisies – Osteospermum

Buffalo across the plains, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Buffalo Grazing
The first of the Big Five we come across are the Cape buffalo. They are known for their unpredictable behaviour and their tendency to congregate near water sources.

Cape buffalo portrait, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Cape Buffalo – Syncerus Caffer Caffer
Big-game hunters in the 19th-century named the most dangerous and difficult animals to hunt on foot the Big Five.

Portrait: Male impala, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Male Impala – Aepyceros Melampus
A red billed oxpecker (Buphagus erythrorhynchus) feeds on the ticks that have made their home on an impala.

Cape buffalo portrait, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

More Buffalo

Rhinos resting in the grass, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Rhinos Resting
Lucky for me, my guide spotted another one of the Big Five – these rhinos in the shade of tree.

White rhino portrait, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

White Rhinoceros – Ceratotherium Simum
Patience paid off! We waited in the Land Cruiser – and one of the often-elusive rhinos stood up and revealed themselves.

Cape buffalo portrait, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Another Herd of Cape Buffalo
The buffalo were everywhere! The males are huge, weighing in at 500 to 900 kg (1102 to 1984 lbs).

Cape buffalo portrait, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Buffalo in the Landscape

A Rothschild

Look Up!
The tall acacia trees are the perfect giraffe habitat. A Rothschild’s giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis rothschildi) happily browses on the thorny branches.

An Aviat A-1 Husky fixed-wing aircraft on the ground, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

An Aviat A-1 Husky
Not everyone drives to the park!

Rothschild

Giraffes
A population of the near-threatened Rothschild’s giraffes (Giraffa camelopardalis rothschildi) was moved to safety here in Lake Nakuru National Park from Western Kenya in 1977.

Rothschild

Rothschild’s Giraffes
These beautiful giraffes are distinguishable by their white kneesocks and relatively light coat markings.

Grant’s Zebra – Equus Quagga Boehmi
It was an unusually wet year, so the grass has grown rich and green. The animals are everywhere!

A herd of impala in the trees, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

Impala – Aepyceros Melampus
Female impala graze in herds scattered around the grasslands.

A male impala in the grasslands, Lake Nakuru National Park, Kenya

A Male Impala – Aepyceros Melampus
One male impala dominates the harem, while a small band of ‘bachelors’ practice their fighting skills nearby – waiting for the opportunity to oust the alpha and take over.

Rothschild

A Tangle of Giraffes
In spite of their near-threatened status, Rothschild’s giraffes seem to be doing well in the park.

Rothschild

Male Giraffes
Everywhere I look, they stand out tall against the sky.

Although we only saw two of the Big Five, we certainly experienced a rich array of beautiful and healthy-looking animals on our travels around the park.

Text: Take only Pictures

Clouds were rolling in, and it was time to head back to the lake in search of waterbirds before our day was washed out – along with the roads!

More on that soon.

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 11May2026

The rugged coast along the Gulf of Gökova, Karaca Muğla, Türkiye

The Coastline
The Gulf of Gökova, or Gulf of Kerme, has gone by a variety of names over its lifetime. This long (100 km; 62 mi), narrow, arm of the Aegean Sea between the Bodrum and the Datça Peninsulas in south-west Türkiye is marketed for its charming towns, untouched coves, archaeological ruins, and wonderful colours.

Time loses its meaning when you are chugging slowly around Türkiye’s Gulf of Gökova.

Well – not entirely: the days are punctuated by wonderful meals and the occasional landfalls.

I was on a small gulet with nine other passengers and four crew, making various stops around the stunningly beautiful coastline in Türkiye’s south-west. One day, we docked on Cedar Island to visit the gorgeous Cleopatra Beach and wander among Doric ruins (see: Cleopatra was Here!).

The next morning saw us pulling anchor as the sun rose over Canak Bay (Çanak Koyu), in Karaca, on the north coast of the Datça Peninsula. As we breakfasted, our gulet backtracked to dock in Karacasöğüt Bay, Karaca Muğla. There, we went ashore to explore the little locality where the fancy yachts seem to outnumber the simple rural houses.

After that, it gets hazy, as the GPS on my phone and my itinerary didn’t line up – and many distant places have the same names. But, somewhere along the way, we crossed the gulf and anchored in Arpa Bükü Koyu (Barley Bay) near Çökertme Muğla. This region was ravage by the 2021 forest fires around the Mediterranean and Aegean seas (eg: Turkey battles coastal wildfires – in pictures). The evidence could still be seen in the deserted resorts and denuded hills.

Join me for some short shore excursions either side of the Gulf of Gökova.

Yachts at rest in Karacasöğüt Bay, Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye

The Yachts Line Up
The number of beautiful boats in the harbour belies the simple traditional housing on the hill. Karacasöğüt Bay is host to a number of sailing clubs.

Boats in Karacasöğüt Bay, Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye

Checking out the Visitors
The beauty of an organised trip is that the docking formalities are not my problem!

Anchored boats in Karacasöğüt Bay, Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye

Anchored Vessels Below
Walking up the small, dead-end road behind the sailing academy, I have a good view over a few of the many vessels in the harbour.

Close-up: pine needles, Karacasöğüt Bay, Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye

Pine Needles
Pine trees line the roadside.

Squirrel in a pine tree, Karacasöğüt Bay, Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye

Bright Eyed Squirrel
I get excited when I find any wildlife!

Squirrel in a pine tree, Karacasöğüt Bay, Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye

Squirrel in a Pine Tree
Türkiye is home to several squirrel species; I watched this one for a while, but couldn’t get a good enough view to decide which type it was.

A dusty street selfie in a convex mirror, Karaca Muğla, Türkiye

A Dusty Street Selfie
I head up into the settlement of Karaca Muğla, and stop to take a selfie in a convex mirror on a blind corner.

Fig leaves and garden stakes, Karaca, Marmaris/Muğla, Türkiye

A Fig Tree in the Garden
This is a small, rural community – and market gardens surround many of the houses.

Close-up: red pepper berries, Karaca, Marmaris/Muğla, Türkiye

Red Berries
The drought-resistant broad-leaf pepper tree (Schinus terebinthifolius) is a popular landscaping ornamental around the Mediterranean.

View over Karaca farms, Marmaris/Muğla, Türkiye

Rural Life in the Karaca Countryside
Drought resistant plants are a necessity in this hot and arid climate.

Close-up: pomegranates on a tree, Karaca, Marmaris/Muğla, Türkiye

Pomegranate – Punica Granatum
Pomegranates say “Mediterranean” to me. They thrive in these hot, dry summers and tolerate poor soils.

Virginia creeper on a pergola, Karaca, Marmaris/Muğla, Türkiye

Virginia Creeper – Parthenocissus Quinquefolia
Deciduous vines, like these “false grapes”, are often grown on trellises and pergolas; they provide shade in summer and more light in winter.

Cypress vine flowers, Karaca, Marmaris/Muğla, Türkiye

Cypress Vine – Ipomoea Quamoclit
In spite of the name, these fast-growing vines are thought to be native to the tropics in America.

Boats at anchor, Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye

Boats at Anchor
After a coffee and a spot of shopping in the local Karaca market, I’m back on the deep blue waters.

Sailboat at anchor, Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye

Sailboat At Anchor
There are endless green-treed coves; many with yachts or gulets anchored in them.

A small sailboat on the Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye

Full Sail In the Gulf
The next morning, we – and other boats – are working our way across the water.

North coast of the Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye

From the Water
We cruise along the rugged terrain on the northern shore of the Gulf of Gökova, where the fires of 2021 charred the previously tree-covered mountains.

Cut timber logs at the side of a dirt track, the Gulf of Gökova, Çökertme Türkiye

Cut Wood
After pulling into the small cove at Arpa Bükü, Çökertme, I go for a walk up the hill.

Close-up: dried thistles, Çökertme Türkiye

Nature’s Artworks: Thistles on the Roadside
It’s already October – but it is still hot, and the plants on the dusty track are past their best.

Sunflare in a blue sky over the Çökertme hills, Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye

High Noon over Arpa Bükü, Çökertme

Brick dome on yellow grass, Çökertme, Türkiye

Riyekt Sarnici – Old Water Cistern
Up on the hill, I come across a structure – which GoogleMaps has pinpointed as a Historic Landmark. It turns out that this cistern dates back to the Ottoman period, when it was built to meet the region’s water needs.

Fire damage and dusty roads, Çökerme, Türkiye

Çökerme Hills
Resort accommodation in the denuded hills has not yet come back to life.

Fire damage and dry fields, Çökerme, Türkiye

Stone Wall and Fire Damage

Gulet anchored in Arpa Bükü, Çökertme Türkiye

Our Boat in Arpa Bükü
The dirt path leads me back down to the water.

This would be our last cove on the beautiful Gulf of Gökova.

I rocked to sleep on the gentle waves, knowing I’d be back in Bodrum the next day.

Text: Safe SailingUntil then,

Safe Sailing!

Pictures: 05-06October2022

 

Snow capped mountains reflected in Lava Lake, Nisga

Sii T’ax (Lava Lake) in Nisga’a Provincial Park
This is a sight worth detouring for! On a blue-sky morning, it’s a beautiful and quiet place – albeit with a sad history. This lake in Northern British Columbia, Canada, was enlarged when lava flow from a volcanic eruption dammed the Tseax River. That same eruption wiped out two villages of Nisga’a people.

I love a road trip!

It was my first trip back to Canada for several years – thanks to life, and Covid19, and stuff.

I had some painful business to deal with, so I had decided to reward myself afterwards with a long-dreamed-of trip to the magical islands of Haida Gwaii (see: Weekly Wanders Haida Gwaii). Haida Gwaii is not the easiest place to get to, and I spent some time in British Columbia’s northwest city of Prince Rupert (see: Butze Rapids) before catching the ferry for the rough, nine-hour-plus crossing of the Hecate Strait to get there.

The ferry back to the mainland after my week-long stay on the archipelago was an overnight trip (see: xxxx) which landed me back on the mainland before 6:00am.

Not a thing was open! I couldn’t get so much as a cup of coffee. I had a room reserved in Smithers, about four hours from the coast, but of course wouldn’t have access to that until later in the afternoon. I parked outside a closed fast-food outlet to tap into their wifi so I could plot my day.

My option was to drive …

While I was travelling, I heard stories about the Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park. Some time between 1668 and 1778, the Tseax Cone (the Nisga’a volcano) in the Nass Valley erupted, wiping out two villages and killing about 2,000 Nisga’a people. It was Canada’s deadliest volcanic disaster – and one which, until recently – I’d never heard of.

So, when I reached Terrace on the Yellowhead Highway, in stread of heading directly to Smithers where I was scheduled to meet an old friend later in the day, I turned left and detoured further north on the winding Nisga,a Highway through the scenic Kitsumkalum Valley.

Join me on some northern roads.

A curve in Highway 16 with trees and mountains, Prince Rupert, BC, Canada

Highway 16, Prince Rupert, BC
The roads are quiet and a pleasure to drive this far north.

Workers in orange, Highway 16, Prince Rupert, BC, Canada

Roadside Workers
Most of the people I come across outside of the city are there to do a job: I don’t know what service these men belonged to, but I liked the colour of their vests against the endless rain-forest green.

Dandelion heads in seed, Prince Rupert, BC, Canada

Moments of Wonder – Dandelions

Prince Rupert colourful dock, BC Canada

Prince Rupert Dock
The small city of Prince Rupert is essentially a port: serving as the land, air, and water transportation hub for British Columbia’s North Coast.

Eagle Bluff Bed & Breakfast, Cow Bay Prince Rupert, BC Canada

Eagle Bluff Bed & Breakfast Cow Bay
Prince Rupert has the dubious honour of being Canada’s wettest city. The wooden buildings are brightly painted to ward off any potential wet-weather gloom.

Waterfront buildings, Prince Rupert, BC Canada

Waterfront
The shops and restaurants along the waterfront are well worth a wander. Be warned though: we are along way north and quite remote here: a technical glitch had all ATMs, wifi, and eftpos inoperational for a large proportion of my stay. Cash only, please!

Display of ceremonial Indigenous art, Museum of Northern BC, Prince Rupert, Canada

Museum of Northern British Columbia
Several of my BC friends told me I must visit the Museum Exhibit of Northwest Coast Culture and History while I was in Prince Rupert. I was glad that I took their advice.

Carved bear, Indigenous art, Museum of Northern BC, Prince Rupert, Canada

Bear Sculpture
This wonderful piece is an example of Tsimshian mortuary art used to store a box with the deceased’s ashes. The bear is a revered spirit animal in Northwest Coast cultures.

Tsimshian bent box, Indigenous art, Museum of Northern BC, Prince Rupert, Canada

Tsimshian Bentwood Box
Made from one piece of wood that is steamed at three corners and bent around to form a box, these beautiful creations were used for both symbolic and practical purposes.

Display of ceremonial Indigenous art, Museum of Northern BC, Prince Rupert, Canada

Chief’s Headdress Apron and Leggings

Carved Shaman

Tlingit Shaman’s Rattle
Northern British Columbia is home to several diverse First Nations, including the Haida, Tlingit, Nisga’a, Tahltan, Gitxsan, Wet’suwet’en, and Carrier (Dakelh) peoples.

Copy of the Anget Pole of Ninstints, Prince Rupert, Canada

Anget Pole of Ninstints
Outside, there is a full-size copy by William Jeffrey of a famous family pole from the now-abandoned village of SGang Gwaay (Ninstints) in Haida Gwaii.

Straight road into mountains, Yellowhead Highway, BC, Canada

Into the Sunrise along the Yellowhead Highway
The ferry from Haida Gwaii sets me onto the road east before 6am.

East into the rain on Yellowhead Highway, BC, Canada

… and then the Rain Returned …

Mural of a moose, Terrace, BC Canada

My first Moose!
Well, my only moose. I’ve never seen one in the wild. This beautiful mural entitled Swamp Donkey was painted in 2021 by artist Casey Braam on the building next to the Terrace Tim Horton’s – where I parked to get wifi.

Nisga

Nisga’a Highway
I backtracked, and pointed the car north on Highway 113, where even the ongoing rain could not diminish the mountains in the distance.

Snow capped mountains reflected in Lava Lake, Nisga

Reflections in Lava Lake
Fortunately, the skies cleared when I reached the Sii T’ax (Lava Lake) Picnic Area.

Visitor Information Centre, Nisga

The Visitor Information Centre
The design on this traditional-style longhouse in Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park was painted by Nisga’a artist Jaimie Davis and depicts Gwax Ts’agat (the super being). Unfortunately, the centre was closed.

View over Nisga’a Memorial Lava Beds, BC Canada

Nisga’a Memorial Lava Beds
Part of the lava flows that buried the two Nisga’a villages some time around 1700 are accessible from the road. Walking trails provide restricted access – but I wasn’t going to venture far without breakfast or coffee! Even the local museum was not open for another hour.

The Drowned Forest on the the Tseax River, Nisga’a, BC Canada

White Water and the Drowned Forest
I turned the car around – stopping at a point along the Tseax River, where the waters roar past taking fallen timbers with them – and made the resolution to return here one day, with more time.

Hudson Bay Mountain from downtown Smithers, BC Canada

Small Town – Big Sky!
Late afternoon (after several long-awaited meal-stops!), I made it into Smithers. The magnificent snow-capped Hudson Bay Mountain dwarfs the town.

The Babine Mountain Goat statue, Smithers BC Canada

My Mate the Mountain Goat
I’m a capricorn born in the year of the goat, so goats always grab my attention. The Babine Mountain Goat in Smithers is named for the nearby Babine Mountains Provincial Park, where a healthy population of these animals reside.

The Babine Mountain Goat statue, Smithers BC Canada

A Rare BlueSky!
Rocky Mountain goats (Oreamnos americanus) are endemic to these remote and rugged mountainous areas of western North America. I’ve only ever seen a few in my life – high above me in the mountains.

A women walking up hill through lush green grass, Telkwa Bc Canada

Wild Women Walking
The next morning, I follow my friend as she follows a bear trail up the hill behind her house in Telkwa – a small village near Smithers.

Close up: Western columbine from above, Telkwa Bc Canada

Dance for me Pretty Columbine (Aquilegia Formosa)!
Fortunately, we do not cross paths with the bear.

Western Columbine – Aquilegia Formosa
I love columbine – and these natives are beautiful!

Close up: Sticky cinquefoil from above, Telkwa Bc Canada

Tiny Treasures : Sticky Cinquefoil (Drymocallis Glandulosa)

Landscape: Tyhee Lake to the mountains behind, Telkwa BC Canada.

Those Mountains
At the top of the hill, there are uninterrupted views over Tyhee Lake to the surrounding mountains.

What a gorgeous spot to stand and reminisce about long-ago high-school days! It is amazing the details we remembered after all these years.

But, it was time for me to move on – and follow the roads southwest.

Until Next Time!

Pictures: 07June2022 and 18-19June2022