The front of an ornate wooden building, Fes el Bali, Fes, Morocco.

Delicate Woodwork Windows
Madrasa Al-Attarine – the school of the perfumers – was built in between 1323 and 1325. Stunningly beautiful with its fine cedarwood carvings, intricate stucco, and zellige tilework, it sits in the heart of the Fes el-Bali medina, Morocco.

Fes (Fès, Fez) is often considered the spiritual and cultural heart of Morocco.

It is fitting, then that the oldest section of the city, the Fes el-Bali, is home to artisans practicing traditional crafts, and the oldest continuously functioning institute of higher education in the world.

This UNESCO-listed medina (old walled city) is one of the largest and oldest urban pedestrian zones (car-free areas) in the world. It comprises a mind-boggling tangle of small laneways and dead ends – and I was very glad that the small group I was travelling with had a knowledgeable local guide who was tall enough to be seen over the crowds (see: Wandering the Labyrinth)! 

Morocco had been on my wish-list forever: as much for the food and culture, as for the crafts and colours. I was determined to go home with a small tribal carpet – which I found while I was trekking in the Atlas Mountains (see: Over the Tizi Oudid). I wanted to source some pottery, and I had ordered a tagine with plates and bowls from artisans that morning (see: Traditional Moroccan Pottery and Ceramics). I have always had my eye out for some sumptuous Moroccan leather, so I was excited that we were visiting the Chouara Tannery, one of the oldest tanneries in the world, first established the 11th century.

Chouara (Chouwara) Tannery is one of three tanneries in Fes. While the dye pots are at street-level, the building itself rises four floors, housing a full range of leather goods, all connected by narrow stairs. At the door, we were met by a man with a plate of mint sprigs to help us cope with the overwhelmingly pungent smell of ammonia, rotting flesh, and animal waste, as the hides are softened then coloured in the open vats.

Today, the tanning industry is considered one of the main tourist attractions in the city. I did my bit: I bought a small cross-body bag and a larger handbag. The quality of both is sublime!

The rest of our afternoon was spent admiring the wonderful, ornate, medieval architecture in the old quarter.

Do join me in marveling at the craftsmanship: 

View over the Chouara Tannery vats, Fes Morocco.

Tannery Vats
Workers – who look tiny from up here – soak cow, sheep, goat, and camel hides in stone vats filled with a mixture of water, salt, quicklime, cow urine, and pigeon droppings. The ammonia in this concoction helps break down tough animal fibers and hair, but the smell is eye watering!

Environmental portrait: Man inside the Chouara Tannery, Fes Morocco.

Tannery Guide
Our guide explains the history, the processes, and the products. The production methods remain unchanged since medieval times: no modern machinery is used.

View over the Chouara Tannery vats, Fes Morocco.

Round Die Pots
After three days of cleaning, leathers are soaked in the dyeing solutions. Even though the dying process uses only natural colorants – like poppy for red, indigo for blue, and henna for orange – the tanneries produce considerable pollution which ends up in the soil and waterways.

The courtyard of an ornate wooden building, Fes el Bali, Fes, Morocco.

Courtyard to a Madrasa
Around a corner sits a religious school. Often named for the neighbourhood they are in, this one is Al-Attarine Madrasa, the ‘school of the perfumers’.

The front of an ornate wooden building, Fes el Bali, Fes, Morocco.

Delicate Woodwork
As I said above, this madrasa was built in between 1323 and 1325. The carving is so beautiful that I couldn’t stop taking pictures!

Same – Same
Every set of windows is different, but I got rather overwhelmed and had trouble telling them apart.

Mihrab Al Attarine-Madrasa, Fes Morocco

Mihrab
The mihrab (prayer niche) looks like marble but is intricately carved and decorated stucco.

Arabic Calligraphy Al Attarine-Madrasa, Fes Morocco

Arabic Calligraphy
This, too, is carved stucco. 

Two women in an upstairs window, Madrasa Al-Attarine, Fes Morocco

Faces in the Window
Those eyes!

Funduq Barka, Fes Morocco

A Traditional Moroccan Scalloped Archway
Fes has always been a city of travellers and traders. This wooden gate and horseshoe arch leads into Funduq Barka, a historic 14th-century caravanserai – or hostel.

Ornate window, Zaouia of Moulay Idriss II, Fes Morocco

Zaouia of Moulay Idriss II
Our next stop was at the holy shrine and mausoleum dedicated to the patron saint and founder of Fes. The slot in this portal is for giving alms.

Inside The Zawiya of Moulay Idris II, Fes.

Inside
The interior of the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II is wildly colourful.

Colourful geometrics outside the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II, Fes Morocco.

Detailed Carving
Back outside the historic mausoleum, I pause to admire the wooden decorations. Called tazouaqt, this traditional Moroccan art form involves intricate hand-painted geometric and floral designs on wood.

Outside courtyard of the Musée Nejjarine des Arts et Métiers du Bois, Fes Morocco

Funduq al-Najjarin
The Inn of the Carpenters is another historic funduq – a caravanserai or traditional inn. In 1998 it was reopened as a private museum for wood arts and crafts. It is now known as le Musée Nejjarine des Arts et Métiers du Bois.

Ornate entryway to the Nejjarine-Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts, Fes Morocco.

Entry Detail

Horseshoe arch window, Nejjarine-Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts, Fes Morocco.

Moorish Arch – Horseshoe Arch
Inside the museum, there are examples of traditional windows with lattice looking out over the courtyard.

Conduit and cables outside a window, Nejjarine Museum of Wood Arts and Crafts, Fes Morocco.

A More Modern Chaos
Windows in the other direction show the effects of modernisation and the building next door.

Lamp in a narrow lane, Fès el-Bali, Morocco.

Lamp in the Medina
There are treasures on every narrow street and around every corner.

A narrow weathered street with peeling blue paint, Fes el-Bali, Morocco.

Ramshackle Canopy
Some of the weathered streets are shaded by tarps, stretched across the narrow walkways.

Hanging brass lamps, Fes el-Bali, Morocco.

Handcrafted Brass Lamps
Back in the market streets, Moroccan craft is on display.

Looking through the doorway into the University of al-Qarawiyyin, Fès el-Bali, Morocco.

University of al-Qarawiyyin
We take a look into the University of al-Qarawiyyin (Al Karueein). Founded in 857, this university holds the Guinness World Record as the world’s oldest continuously operating institution of higher learning.

Inner courtyard, University of al-Qarawiyyin, Fès el-Bali, Morocco.

Zellige Tile Work and a Central Fountain
Inside the university courtyard, I admire the classic Moorish design elements: horseshoe arches, intricate stucco carvings, and geometric zellige tilework.

Fabric store, Fès el-Bali, Morocco.

Fabulous Fabrics
Our last stop in the medina was at one of the many fabric stores, where all types of fabrics were available.

Male weaver at a large wooden loom, Fès el-Bali, Morocco.

Weaver
Under fluorescent lighting, a weaver shows us how it is done.

We returned to our riad overwhelmed with images and impressions.

Sign-Off-Happy-Shopping

Oh! And purchases. 

I just love my Moroccan leather – purchased at the source!

Photos: 18October2024

St. Martin Church, Busskirch, Switzerland.

Busskirch Village
This little corner of Rapperswil-Jona, with its charming Medieval Gothic church, is as picturesque as the rest of the landscape around the Obersea and Lake Zurich in Switzerland.

Quaint and historic buildings in pretty villages, set against impossibly green grass, and surrounded by snow capped mountains: Switzerland truly is a picture-perfect postcard!

One of the many perks of living as an expat is that you meet people whose homes are in places you might never have heard of otherwise. Rapperswil-Jona is a municipality in the northeast of Switzerland – a stone’s throw (or short train ride) from Zurich (see: Rapperswil-Jona). I was there to visit friends, as I had done once before, many years before (see: Lines and Patterns: Holzbrücke, Rapperswil-Hurden, Swiss Apples and National Day, and Grass at the Bachtelturm and the Roses of Historic Rapperswil).

It was a bit of a rushed visit: I had travelled from Paris via Geneva (watch this space!) by train, and had only a few days before I had to return to Paris for a flight. But we made the most of it: talking, eating, and just walking through the charming streets and picturesque fields and forests.

Rapperswil-Jona is a collection of villages and hamlets that merged to form a new political entity in 2007. In addition to the two communities that give it its name, it also takes in Bollingen, Busskirch, Curtiberg, Kempraten-Lenggis, and Wagen.

It sits on the south side of the Seedamm: a moraine of the Linth Glacier that lies across Lake Zurich, partially separating it from the Obersee. Evidence of lake-crossing structures date back to the Early Bronze Age. Today, the causeway at the Seedamm carries a rail line and a highway – making Rapperswil-Jona an important transport hub.

Join me for some easy, relatively flat, small-town walking:

A multi-story home in Jona, Switzerland.

Stately Home
My friends live in Jona – an independent municipality in the canton of St. Gallen in Switzerland until it merged with Rapperswil and became Rapperswil-Jona. That is where we started our days.

Young red apples on a tree, Jona, Switzerland.

Apples
Can you say “Switzerland” without thinking of William Tell and apples?

The historic Haus zum Engel in Rapperswil, Switzerland.

The Historic Haus zum Engel – House of the Angel
Houses have names here! This one sits at the eastern end of Rapperswil’s old town. First mentioned in 1530, this Medieval building with its late-Gothic facade now features a mural painted by Swiss artist Jost Blöchliger (1934–1989) following the building’s restoration in the late 1960s.

Fischmarktplatz, Rapperswil, Switzerland.

Fischmarktplatz – Fish Market Square
At the south end of the old town, this large square was rebuilt in the late 1800s.

Rapperswil through fence mesh, Switzerland.

Rapperswil across the Tracks
The railway line across the Seedamm is protected from errant pedestrians by fencing. Through it, we can look up over the old town to Rapperswil Castle on the hill.

Komposition in Corten by Silvio Mattioli, OST Campus Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Komposition in Corten by Silvio Mattioli (1929-2011)
In complete contrast with the old town, the OST – Eastern Switzerland University of Applied Sciences features modern buildings and a large abstract sculpture installation of weathering steel.

Holzbrücke and the Heilig Hüsli from the Rapperswil shore, Switzerland.

Holzbrücke and the Heilig Hüsli (Holy House)
Pedestrians have been crossing here since time immemorial:  this historic track forms part of Jakobsweg, the Way of St. James, (Camino de Santiago). In 2001, this new 841-meter-long wooden footbridge – built in the same place as the original bridge – was opened between us here in Rapperswil-Jona and Hurden on the south side of the lake.

The Heilig Hüsli from the Rapperswil shore, Switzerland.

Heilig Hüsli – The Holy House
This little chapel was originally built next to the old bridge in 1551, replacing earlier versions. The first recorded mention of a wooden prayer house or chapel greeting pilgrims on their way toward Santiago de Compostela was in 1485.

St. Martin Church, Busskirch, Switzerland.

St. Martin Church
Back in the 1st century CE, Busskirch was a Roman lakeside crossroads stage town. The current church was built on Roman ruins some time in the 13th century.

Horse and carriage, Jona, Switzerland.

🎶 I’m Getting Married in the Morning 🎶
Horse and carriage is a popular form of Swiss wedding transport.

Pastoral scene, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Between the Mountains and the Fields

Close-up: Purple beautyberry, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Beautyberry – Callicarpa
I can’t help but admire the range of plants in the gardens as we walked back home.

Ripe horse chestnuts on the tree, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Horse Chestnuts – Aesculus Hippocastanum
The glossy brown seeds of horse chestnuts – known as a conkers – are not edible. Unlike sweet or European chestnuts (Castanea), which belong to the beech/oak family (Fagaceae), horse chestnuts belong to the soapberry family (Sapindaceae).

Overlooking Rapperswil-Jona and the Obersee from the Meienberg, Switzerland.

From the Meienberg
The next morning we walked up the hill behind Rapperswil-Jona. We have views over the town, the lake, and the mountains to the south.

A wayside crucifix in front of contemporary multi-story housing, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Wayside Crucifix
Walking through a hillside neighbourhood, we pause to admire one of many traditional devotional crosses that punctuate this predominantly Catholic country.

The peak of Mürtschenstock from Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Mürtschenstock
The mountains of the Glarus Alps rise up, far to the southeast.

Parish Church of Saint Mary

Pfarrkirche Maria Himmelfahrt – Parish Church of Saint Mary’s Assumption
As we ascend the hill, we have views over some of the town’s historic buildings.

View over the Rapperswil Castle, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Historic Medieval Complex of Rapperswil-Jona
Schloss Rapperswil – Rapperswil Castle – stands on a smaller hill between us and the lake.

Walkers on the path into the Jonerwald, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Walkers into the Jonerwald
The path into the woods – once we get there – is shady and calm.

A path in the Jonerwald, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Wet and Winding
A gentle rain sprinkles as we make our way along the level path. Jonervald is a bit of a patchwork of forested lands, cobbled together and linked by walks that sometimes border on private property.

A mossy stump, Jonerwald, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

A Stump
This is a temperate and humid climate zone, so there is plenty of moss and greenery around our feet.

Autumn trees on the path, Jonerwald, Rapperswil-Jona, Switzerland.

Light on the Path
The autumn trees are at different stages; the yellowing one in front of us strikes me as a beacon.

Into the Woods

Bell Tower
We find our way out of the forest via a different road – which leads us to a good lunch. From there, we head back home to Jona, stopping to admire the Pfarrkirche Maria Himmelfahrt (Church of the Assumption of Mary). This church sits in the place of the first Christian house of worship here, dated to 812CE. The church and bell-tower we see today were mostly built in 1852 in distinctive Neo-Gothic style.

Crucifixion sculpture inside Jona

The Crucifixion of Jesus with Mary and John
It is cool and quiet inside the Maria Himmelfahrt Church – as you’d expect in a Catholic church outside of service times. I think that this gilded wooden Calvary group sculpture is modern – though it is reminiscent of 16th-century Renaissance works.

That was a fitting end to our lovely Sunday walk.

We returned to the apartment, where I packed my bags in readiness for my onward trip the next day.

Text: Safe Travels! Ursula

Until next time,

Safe Travels!

Pictures: 05-06October2024

Masai giraffe striding across the landscape, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Masai Giraffe – Giraffa Tippelskirchi
Striding across a protected landscape of savannah bounded by wilderness and mountains, a giraffe seems to own the grasslands of southwestern Kenya.

How many distinctively different animals can you see in just one day in the Masai (Masaai) Mara?

More than will fit into one blog post, apparently!

The Mara is home to about 95 species of mammals, including the “The Big Five”: lions, leopards, African bush elephants, African buffaloes, and black rhinoceros. The bird species number over 450. My count on my first full day in the park didn’t mount quite that high, but the frequency and density of animal sightings was still breathtaking.

The total area in the Greater Maasai Mara ecosystem – or simply “the Mara” – is huge: covering almost 1,510 square kilometres (580 sq mi). It includes the Maasai Mara National Reserve (see: Masai Mara National Reserve), the Mara Triangle, several Maasai group ranches, and Maasai Mara conservancies.

Each section is managed somewhat differently, but infrastructure development is carefully managed and wild animals have right-of-way everywhere. In the conservancies, Maasai communities still continue to live in their traditional way, herding their cattle – while the Reserve and the Triangle, you will see only wild animals.

I was on a long-awaited safari: just me and a Kenyan guide-driver. After a four-hour-plus drive from Lake Nakuru National Park the day before (see: Rainy Roads and Potholes), we had arrived into the park early in the afternoon. In the early evening, we drove up an extraordinarily-bad road into the Oloolaimutia Hills to my accommodation just outside the park gates. Tourist accommodation in the conservancies – that is, outside the actual park boundaries – tends to be less expensive, and includes more infrastructure.

Entry into the park is time-limited: strictly 12 hours per entry fee and restricted to between 6am and 6pm. That said, on this particular day we entered the gates after 7am. By mid-afternoon, my camera batteries and I were exhausted.

Join me for some highlights:

A hammerhead at the feet of a wildebeest, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

A Blue Wildebeest – Connochaetes Taurinus
Our first sighting in the morning was a herd of wildebeest grazing. One of the Ugly Five, wildebeest certainly are odd-looking creatures. The blue wildebeest – which isn’t actually blue, as you can see – is the most common. What really caught my eye here was the distinctive hammerhead birds running around at their feet.

A hammerhead in green grass, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Hamerkop – Scopus Umbretta
Named for the shape of their heads, these medium-sized water birds are common across Africa, Madagascar, and Arabia. They are also known as hammerheads, anvil heads, or umbrette.

Helmeted guineafowl, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Helmeted Guineafowl – Numida Meleagris
As we drive the rough, dirt tracks through the expansive park, native guineafowl scuttle around the road edges.

Topi against green grass, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Topi – Damaliscus Lunatus
An elegant topi – a large African antelope – scans the savanna for predators.

Young lioness on a roadworks dirt pile, Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya.

Lions on a Hill
My guide was determined to return to the road tailings that we had visited the previous afternoon (see: Masai Mara National Reserve). I dutifully took many pictures – even though I don’t find lions sleeping on a pile of dirt particularly interesting or photogenic.

Lilac-breasted roller, Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya.

Lilac-Breasted Roller – Coracias Caudatus
I was far more excited when I spotted Kenya’s beautiful and colourful little national bird.

African bush elephant against yellow grass, Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya.

African Bush Elephant – Loxodonta Africana
Also known as African savanna elephants, these magnificent – but endangered – creatures are spotted regularly in the open savanna.

A view over the Mara River, Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya.

On the Mara River
We cover a lot of ground, and the terrain is constantly changing. Later in the morning, we stop at the river …

Portrait of a young man in park ranger uniform, Mara River, Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya.

Ranger Hillary
… where I’m introduced to a young ranger. He took me for a walk along the river in search of hippopotamus.

Nile crocodile in brown water, Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya.

Nile Crocodile – Crocodylus Niloticus
The hippos are mostly hiding, only showing their ears, foreheads, and snout above the muddy river. On the other hand, crocodiles, which are an apex predator in the Mara, can be seen everywhere: on the rocky shore and in the water.

An acacia tree against the sky, Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya.

Lone Tree
Back away from the river, the grasslands stretch out in all directions, dotted with acacia tree.

Little bee-eater in a bush, Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya.

Little Bee-Eater – Merops Pusillus
I don’t have the the patience – or the lenses – for bird photography, but I couldn’t resist this delightful little bee-eater.

Superb starling, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Superb Starling – Lamprotornis Superbus
Some time later, as we stop to watch more lions sleeping, a beautiful superb starling lights on a neighbouring jeep.

An impalas on a mound, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Impalas – Aepyceros Melampus
Many antelope use hills and termite mounds to keep an eye out for predators.

Male and female lion pair sleeping, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Resting Lions
A completely relaxed lion pair snooze after mating.

Relaxed female lion in a tree, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Lion in a Tree
Lions will sleep anywhere!

Topi against green grass, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Topi – Damaliscus Lunatus
Such a long face! From another mound, a topi keeps watch.

Green, flat river crossing, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

On the River
We crossed the river again. The lush grass almost hides the African buffalo (Syncerus caffer) on the opposite bank; we’d seen plenty of these, so didn’t stop.

Warthogs against green grass, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Warthogs – Phacochoerus Africanus
One of the ugly five, these fully-grown examples are not as cute as the young piglets.

Thomson

Thomson’s Gazelle – Eudorcas Thomsonii
It had been a particularly rainy spring and all the animals looked healthy – albeit covered in an abundance of flies.

Eland against green grass, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Eland – Taurotragus
I marvelled at the many different types of antelope we saw.

A number of banded mongoose on a grassy mound, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Banded Mongoose – Mungos Mungo
These were too quick and too far away for a clear shot – but I just loved watching their antics.

Plains zebra, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Plains Zebra – Equus Quagga
There are several different types of zebras, and they are all beautiful. I know this is a plains zebra, but can’t tell you if it is a Grant’s or Burchell’s.

Black-backed jackal, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Black-Backed Jackal – Lupulella Mesomelas

Female ostrich against the landscape, Masai Mara, Kenya Africa.

Common Ostrich – Struthio Camelusa
Even though she is less flashy than her male counterpart, watching a female ostrich so close is still wonderful.

There is no way I could have lasted 12 full hours!

Text: Take only Pictures

It was a wonderful day with so many animals, but after hours of bouncing around in the back of a Land Cruiser, I was ready for a hot shower, a tasty dinner, and a comfy bed.

And, with any luck, we’d be back in the park the next morning.

Until then,

Happy Travels!

Photos: 13May2026

External front view of the Nisga

Visitor Centre
A traditional cedar longhouse in the Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park, Nass Valley BC Canada, serves as an information centre. The striking design on the exterior depicts Gwax Ts’agat (a local super being), as painted by Nisga’a artist Jaimie Davis. The centre displays information on the Nisga’a people and the devastating loss of life from the eruption of the Tseax Cone some time between 1675 and 1780.

The Nisg̱a’a people have lived in the Nass River Valley since before recorded time.

Today, these lands are geographically part of northwestern British Columbia (BC), Canada, roughly in line with the tip of the Alaska Panhandle and only a short distance away as the crow flies. By any other means of transport, they are a long way from anywhere.

The Indigenous Nisg̱a’a share long oral and artistic traditions, and have managed to preserve much of their culture and language. They reclaimed the right to self-governance on May 11, 2000 in a landmark agreement with the BC government that includes land and water resources across roughly 1,992 square kilometers (769 square miles) of the Nass River Valley (see: Nisga’a Treaty).

I had made a short foray into the region on my previous visit to northwestern BC the year before (see: In the North Country). I decided then that I really had to return. So, after visiting a friend near Smithers (see: Stops on BC’s Yellowhead Highway #1), I pointed the car west for two and a quarter hours to to Terrace, then an hour and fifteen north on the Nisga’a Highway to Gitlax̱tʼaamiks (formerly known as New Aiyansh).

In these remote lands, that is the blink of an eye, really!

I booked two nights at a guesthouse near Gitlax̱tʼaamiks, the capital of the Nisga’a Nation. The weather was overcast and drizzly, but I managed glimpses of this unique landscapes. I was able to visit all four of the local villages – and to appreciate some of the art and history.

Come along to some unique locations:

Gravel and tall trees, Sand Lake Road, New Aiyansh BC Canada

Are you sure Google Maps?
Shhhh! Don’t tell the car rental company. My accommodation was some way out of town, up a lengthy gravel road. Fortunately, it was well graded.

Mossy rocks against a mountain backdrop, the Nisga

Lava Beds and Mountains
Back on the main road, a short detour takes me into the rocky flats that serve as a reminder of that volcanic eruption back in the 18th century. Roughly 2000 people were killed by the fumes and gasses, two villages were buried, and the course of the Nass River was changed.

Gitwinksihlkw village board, Nass Valley BC Canada.

Welcome to Gitwinksihlkw or Place of the Lizards
Pronouncing some of these place names can be a real challenge for English-speakers! Gitwinksihlkw was formerly known as Canyon City. “Home of Hobiyee” is a reference to the most important day on the Nisga’a calendar: the Nisgaʼa New Year. This is celebrated upon the arrival of the first waxing crescent moon in February or early March.

Totem pole, Gitwinksihlkw, Nass Valley BC Canada.

The Right Totem Pole
Four tall totem poles mark the two ends of the bridge into Gitwinksihlkw.

Totem pole, Gitwinksihlkw, Nass Valley BC Canada.

The Left Totem Pole
The story poles honour the eagle, wolf, raven, and the killer whale.

Top of a totem pole, Gitwinksihlkw, Nass Valley BC Canada.

A Stylized Bird Head
This is either the eagle or the raven; unfortunately, I can’t always tell them apart.

The Gitwinksihlkw Suspension bridge, Nass Valley BC Canada.

Gitwinksihlkw Suspension Bridge – Ukws-Ts’agat
Until 1995 – when the road bridge was built – suspension pedestrian bridges were the only way of accessing this village. This bridge, built in 1968, spans about 103.3 meters (339 feet) across the Nass River.

Fisherman with nets and a small boat, Nass River, BC Canada.

Fisherman on the River
On the riverbank, a local fisherman prepares to check his nets. Nisga’a diet is heavily dependent on coastal seafood and freshwater fish.

Totem poles on the road, Gitwinksihlkw, Nass Valley BC Canada.

Totem Poles on the Other Side
As I leave Gitwnksihlkw, I get a view of the other two poles.

Painted and carved clan crests on a large cedar box in front of the Nisga

Hli Goothl Wilp-Adokshl Nisga’a – “The Heart of Nisga’a House Crests”
The Nisga’a Museum collection is housed in a beautiful building. The carved wooden crests displayed on the boxes in the foreground illustrate the local Nisga’a clans and house groups.

Ancestral mask display inside the Nisga

Inside the Museum
The museum contains priceless display of artefacts: many of them reclaimed from collections previously held around the country. The Ancestors’ Collection includes ancestral masks and supernatural figures (nax̱nox).

Eagle transformation mask, Nisga

Eagle Mask
There are many similarities across the Pacific Northwest First Nations’ traditions. This 19th-century eagle transformation mask shares features with those of other groups – including the one that inspired the original logo for the Seattle Seahawks football team.

Carved wooden bowl on display inside the Nisga

Carved Bird/Scoop
Remember the ‘Hobiyee’ – the crescent moon? It gets its name from this: a hoobix – the bowl portion of a traditional wooden spoon or ladle. ‘Hobixis hee!’ literally means ‘the moon is in the shape of the hoobix’.

I continue west to the coastal town of Gingolx (historically called Kincolith), the ‘Seafood Capital of the Nass’ for lunch and some waterside walks. (More on that some other time.)

Moss-draped twisting trees in an old-growth, Nass Valley BC.

Nature’s Sculpture
On my drive back east along the Nisga’a Highway, I stop to admire some moss-draped twisting trees in the old-growth temperate rainforest.

Signpost warning of wildlife crossing, Nisga

I Live in Hope!
Although the roadside signposts warn of crossing wildlife, I didn’t actually see any. While bears and deer are common sightings in BC, I have never seen a moose in the wild.

Nisga

Nisga’a Memorial Lava Beds
I arrive back at the Provincial Park with time to walk the short Crater Creek track into a poignant terrain.

Lichen-covered volcanic rock, Nisga

Lava Rocks
The area is buried in basalt rock from the 18th century volcanic eruption of the Tseax Cone. Over time, nature has softened the landscape with a thick blanket of green and yellow mosses and lichens.

White blossoms on a tufted saxifrage, Nisga

Tufted Saxifrage – Saxifraga Cespitosa
Beautiful and tough plants embed themselves in nooks and crannies …

Yellow and red Pacific stonecrop, Nisga

Pacific Stonecrop – Sedum Divergens
… or anchor in the stony gravel.

Green fern in a crevice, Nisga

Fern in the Lava Rock
This park is a sacred site. For the sake of respect, as well as for safety over the the sharp rocks, deviation from the narrow – but relatively easy – track is not allowed.

Wild rose bush in bloom on volcanic rock, Nisga

Wild Rose on the Rocks
Life is slowly returning to this sobering place, where the power of nature can still be seen.

Four totem poles and a rainy sky, Gitlax̱t

Nisga’a Government Office
Before returning to my room, I stop in the capitol village of Gitlax̱t’aamiks for supplies – and to admire the beautiful poles agains the darkening sky.

I managed to make it back to my guesthouse before the road got too slippery in the early-evening rains.

This truly is a remarkable place, and I was looking forward to exploring further.

Text: Happy Roads!

Until next time,

Happy Roads!

Photos: 04June2023

Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls in long exposure, Pothupara, Kerala India.

The Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls
Just 18 km (11 mi) from the hill station of Munnar in Kerala, a beautiful waterfall cascades into the Pani River near Pothupara. (Long Exposure, iPhone12Pro)

Given that India, with ~ 1.476 billion people – is the most populous country in the world, it always surprises me how much space there is in the country – and how much unspoiled beauty can be found.

I was staying in Kerala – widely known as “God’s Own Country” – near the hill station of Munnar. I had a driver and had lined up various day trips (eg: High Tea in Kerala and Tamil Nadu) to explore the nearby area. 

On one particular day, part of the trip I was looking at required a local jeep, which my driver booked for us. We visited two nearby – but distinctively different – waterfalls on the Muthirapuzha (Muthirappuzhayar) River. Place-naming in these regions can be vague, and I was told the first cascade was Pothupara Falls – also known as Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls. The second – more developed and with an entry fee – is commonly known ar Ripple Waterfalls, or Sreenarayanapuram Falls.

We also visited two separate dams: the Mattupetty Dam on the Muthirapuzha River, and the Ponmudi Dam on the Panniyar River. Both are concrete gravity dams used for electricity generation, and their surrounds have been developed as recreational areas.

The hills around here are tea producers, so, in addition to the scenic stops, we made a tour of the Madupatty (Mattupetty) Tea Factory.

Come for a day out in the hills of Kerala’s Western Ghats:

Landscape: tea plantations, Munnar, Kerala India.

In the Tea Hills
Munnar Hill Station is known for its tea plantations; this was my view over breakfast every morning.

View over the hills surrounding the Mattupetty Reservoir, Kerala India.

Mattupetty Reservoir
It was only a half hour drive from my accommodation to the reservoir formed by Mattupetty Dam.

Rainbow in the spray in rusty pylons, Mattupetty Dam, Kerala India.

Rainbow in the Dam
The reservoir attracts wildlife like elephants – none of which we saw. Rainbows formed in the spray of the overflow in the 70+ year-old dam.

Wild iris behind the fence on Mattupetty Dam, Kerala India.

Wild Iris in the Fencing
Fencing protects the dam crossing against accidents; wild plants add a touch of whimsy.

Looking down into the Mattupetty Tea Factory floor, Kerala India.

Factory Floor
The Mattupetty Tea Factory is only a few minutes away. I had booked myself into a tour.

Environmental portrait: a young South Indian man explaining tea, the Mattupetty Tea Factory, Kerala India.

Our Guide
A personable young man lead our group and explained the cultivation and processing of tea.

Display boxes with tea leaves, dust and packaging, the Mattupetty Tea Factory, Kerala India.

The Stages of Tea
Ripple Tea is a local brand: this display illustrates some of the forms tea is found in.

Mattupetty Tea Factory, Kerala India.

Mattupetty Tea Factory
As we leave the area, I get a view back over the factory where it sits: perched on a hill and surrounded by tea.

Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Pothupara Falls
Also known as Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls, these lovely falls are fed by several streams in the Mutirapuzha River Basin.

Grasses and rock at the foot of Pothupara Falls, Kerala India.

Grasses on the River
The Chunayanmakkal (Pothupara) Waterfalls are promoted as being ‘natural, with minimal commercialisation.’ This translates as: No visitor infrastructure.

Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Meandering Waters
As fresh and inviting as the water looks, swimming here is discouraged because of very slippery rocks all year and very heavy waters during the monsoon season.

Top of Ripple Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Ripple Waterfalls
We crossed the the Muthirapuzha River to visit the much more developed Ripple Waterfalls – known locally as Sreenarayanapuram Falls.

Lily pond in the rock, Ripple Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Lily Pond
Connecting ponds have been built into the rock at the top of the falls.

Purple water lily, Ripple Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Water Lily – Nymphaea

Two people on a flying fox, Ripple Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Flying Fox
Apparently this is India’s longest and highest river-crossing zipline. I opted for the stairs.

Water tumbling over boulders, Ripple Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Rocks at the Top
It’s is a ruggedly beautiful area.

Hard rock face, Ripple Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

The Main Falls
The exposed rock here at the falls is primarily a coarse-grained, quartz-feldspar, metamorphic-rock typical of the ancient Precambrian crust found throughout the Western Ghats.

Rocky riverbed section, Ripple Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Rocky Riverbed
There are flat sections between the tiers of these falls.

Ponmudi Hanging Bridge from a jeep window, Pothupara, Kerala India.

View from the Jeep: Ponmudi Thookkupalam
A short distance south, we dove over the historic Ponmudi Hanging Bridge, near the Ponmudi Dam.

The jagged ravine under the hanging bridge, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Almost Abstract: Ravine under the Hanging Bridge

A young couple, the hanging bridge, Pothupara, Kerala India.

An Intimate Moment
It’s a narrow bridge – single vehicles and pedestrians only.

A tuk tuk on Ponmudi Dam, Pothupara, Kerala India.

On Ponmudi Dam
Going the other direction, we drive over the dam itself.

Tented shops, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Roadside Stop
We then drive up the hillside …

Red tropical hibiscus in the hills, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Red Tropical Hibiscus – Hibiscus × Rosa-Sinensis
… where beautiful vegetation …

View to the Western Ghats, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Over the Hills
… extends far into the Western Ghats.

Portrait of a local man, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Portrait of a Local Man
I can’t remember exactly where we were – but this is one of the reasons I love India: the locals are usually ready to be photographed!

It was a full day and wonderful day – and we still made it back for dinner!

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 08February2023

  • Deeba M - October 5, 2026 - 10:31 pm

    This was a lovely read about exploring the quieter side of Kerala around Munnar. I especially enjoyed the way you covered both the natural beauty of Pothupara Falls and the more developed Ripple Waterfalls, along with the dams and tea factory. The details about the slippery rocks and lack of visitor infrastructure at Pothupara are also useful for anyone planning to visit. The combination of waterfalls, tea plantations, reservoirs and Western Ghats scenery makes this sound like a wonderful full-day outing.

    Regards,
    Deeba
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