Visitor Centre A traditional cedar longhouse in the Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park, Nass Valley BC Canada, serves as an information centre. The striking design on the exterior depicts Gwax Ts’agat (a local super being), as painted by Nisga’a artist Jaimie Davis. The centre displays information on the Nisga’a people and the devastating loss of life from the eruption of the Tseax Cone some time between 1675 and 1780.
The Nisg̱a’a people have lived in the Nass River Valley since before recorded time.
Today, these lands are geographically part of northwestern British Columbia (BC), Canada, roughly in line with the tip of the Alaska Panhandle and only a short distance away as the crow flies. By any other means of transport, they are a long way from anywhere.
The IndigenousNisg̱a’a share long oral and artistic traditions, and have managed to preserve much of their culture and language. They reclaimed the right to self-governance on May 11, 2000 in a landmark agreement with the BC government that includes land and water resources across roughly 1,992 square kilometers (769 square miles) of the Nass River Valley (see: Nisga’a Treaty).
I had made a short foray into the region on my previous visit to northwestern BC the year before (see: In the North Country). I decided then that I really had to return. So, after visiting a friend near Smithers (see: Stops on BC’s Yellowhead Highway #1), I pointed the car west for two and a quarter hours to to Terrace, then an hour and fifteen north on the Nisga’a Highway to Gitlax̱tʼaamiks (formerly known as New Aiyansh).
In these remote lands, that is the blink of an eye, really!
I booked two nights at a guesthouse near Gitlax̱tʼaamiks, the capital of the Nisga’a Nation. The weather was overcast and drizzly, but I managed glimpses of this unique landscapes. I was able to visit all four of the local villages – and to appreciate some of the art and history.
Come along to some unique locations:
Are you sureGoogle Maps? Shhhh! Don’t tell the car rental company. My accommodation was some way out of town, up a lengthy gravel road. Fortunately, it was well graded.
Lava Beds and Mountains Back on the main road, a short detour takes me into the rocky flats that serve as a reminder of that volcanic eruption back in the 18th century. Roughly 2000 people were killed by the fumes and gasses, two villages were buried, and the course of the Nass River was changed.
Welcome to Gitwinksihlkw or Place of the Lizards Pronouncing some of these place names can be a real challenge for English-speakers! Gitwinksihlkw was formerly known as Canyon City. “Home of Hobiyee” is a reference to the most important day on the Nisga’a calendar: the Nisgaʼa New Year. This is celebrated upon the arrival of the first waxing crescent moon in February or early March.
The Right Totem Pole Four tall totem poles mark the two ends of the bridge into Gitwinksihlkw.
The Left Totem Pole The story poles honour the eagle, wolf, raven, and the killer whale.
A Stylized Bird Head This is either the eagle or the raven; unfortunately, I can’t always tell them apart.
Gitwinksihlkw Suspension Bridge – Ukws-Ts’agat Until 1995 – when the road bridge was built – suspension pedestrian bridges were the only way of accessing this village. This bridge, built in 1968, spans about 103.3 meters (339 feet) across the Nass River.
Fisherman on the River On the riverbank, a local fisherman prepares to check his nets. Nisga’a diet is heavily dependent on coastal seafood and freshwater fish.
Totem Poles on the Other Side As I leave Gitwnksihlkw, I get a view of the other two poles.
Hli Goothl Wilp-Adokshl Nisga’a – “The Heart of Nisga’a House Crests” The Nisga’a Museum collection is housed in a beautiful building. The carved wooden crests displayed on the boxes in the foreground illustrate the local Nisga’a clans and house groups.
Inside the Museum The museum contains priceless display of artefacts: many of them reclaimed from collections previously held around the country. The Ancestors’ Collection includes ancestral masks and supernatural figures (nax̱nox).
Eagle Mask There are many similarities across the Pacific Northwest First Nations’ traditions. This 19th-century eagle transformation mask shares features with those of other groups – including the one that inspired the original logo for the Seattle Seahawks football team.
Carved Bird/Scoop Remember the ‘Hobiyee’ – the crescent moon? It gets its name from this: a hoobix – the bowl portion of a traditional wooden spoon or ladle. ‘Hobixis hee!’ literally means ‘the moon is in the shape of the hoobix’.
I continue west to the coastal town of Gingolx (historically called Kincolith), the ‘Seafood Capital of the Nass’ for lunch and some waterside walks. (More on that some other time.)
Nature’s Sculpture On my drive back east along the Nisga’a Highway, I stop to admire some moss-draped twisting trees in the old-growth temperate rainforest.
I Live in Hope! Although the roadside signposts warn of crossing wildlife, I didn’t actually see any. While bears and deer are common sightings in BC, I have never seen a moose in the wild.
Nisga’a Memorial Lava Beds I arrive back at the Provincial Park with time to walk the short Crater Creek track into a poignant terrain.
Lava Rocks The area is buried in basalt rock from the 18th century volcanic eruption of the Tseax Cone. Over time, nature has softened the landscape with a thick blanket of green and yellow mosses and lichens.
Tufted Saxifrage – Saxifraga Cespitosa Beautiful and tough plants embed themselves in nooks and crannies …
Pacific Stonecrop – Sedum Divergens … or anchor in the stony gravel.
Fern in the Lava Rock This park is a sacred site. For the sake of respect, as well as for safety over the the sharp rocks, deviation from the narrow – but relatively easy – track is not allowed.
Wild Rose on the Rocks Life is slowly returning to this sobering place, where the power of nature can still be seen.
Nisga’a Government Office Before returning to my room, I stop in the capitol village of Gitlax̱t’aamiks for supplies – and to admire the beautiful poles agains the darkening sky.
I managed to make it back to my guesthouse before the road got too slippery in the early-evening rains.
This truly is a remarkable place, and I was looking forward to exploring further.
The Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls Just 18 km (11 mi) from the hill station of Munnar in Kerala, a beautiful waterfall cascades into the Pani River near Pothupara. (Long Exposure, iPhone12Pro)
Given that India, with ~ 1.476 billion people – is the most populous country in the world, it always surprises me how much space there is in the country – and how much unspoiled beauty can be found.
I was staying in Kerala – widely known as “God’s Own Country” – near the hill station of Munnar. I had a driver and had lined up various day trips (eg: High Tea in Kerala and Tamil Nadu) to explore the nearby area.
On one particular day, part of the trip I was looking at required a local jeep, which my driver booked for us. We visited two nearby – but distinctively different – waterfalls on the Muthirapuzha (Muthirappuzhayar) River. Place-naming in these regions can be vague, and I was told the first cascade was Pothupara Falls – also known as Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls. The second – more developed and with an entry fee – is commonly known ar Ripple Waterfalls, or Sreenarayanapuram Falls.
We also visited two separate dams: the Mattupetty Dam on the Muthirapuzha River, and the Ponmudi Dam on the Panniyar River. Both are concrete gravity dams used for electricity generation, and their surrounds have been developed as recreational areas.
The hills around here are tea producers, so, in addition to the scenic stops, we made a tour of the Madupatty (Mattupetty)Tea Factory.
Come for a day out in the hills of Kerala’s Western Ghats:
In the Tea Hills Munnar Hill Station is known for its tea plantations; this was my view over breakfast every morning.
Mattupetty Reservoir It was only a half hour drive from my accommodation to the reservoir formed by Mattupetty Dam.
Rainbow in the Dam The reservoir attracts wildlife like elephants – none of which we saw. Rainbows formed in the spray of the overflow in the 70+ year-old dam.
Wild Iris in the Fencing Fencing protects the dam crossing against accidents; wild plants add a touch of whimsy.
Factory Floor The Mattupetty Tea Factory is only a few minutes away. I had booked myself into a tour.
Our Guide A personable young man lead our group and explained the cultivation and processing of tea.
The Stages of Tea Ripple Tea is a local brand: this display illustrates some of the forms tea is found in.
Mattupetty Tea Factory As we leave the area, I get a view back over the factory where it sits: perched on a hill and surrounded by tea.
Pothupara Falls Also known as Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls, these lovely falls are fed by several streams in the Mutirapuzha River Basin.
Grasses on the River The Chunayanmakkal (Pothupara) Waterfalls are promoted as being ‘natural, with minimal commercialisation.’ This translates as: No visitor infrastructure.
Meandering Waters As fresh and inviting as the water looks, swimming here is discouraged because of very slippery rocks all year and very heavy waters during the monsoon season.
Ripple Waterfalls We crossed the the Muthirapuzha River to visit the much more developed Ripple Waterfalls – known locally as Sreenarayanapuram Falls.
Lily Pond Connecting ponds have been built into the rock at the top of the falls.
Water Lily – Nymphaea
Flying Fox Apparently this is India’s longest and highest river-crossing zipline. I opted for the stairs.
Rocks at the Top It’s is a ruggedly beautiful area.
The Main Falls The exposed rock here at the falls is primarily a coarse-grained, quartz-feldspar, metamorphic-rock typical of the ancient Precambrian crust found throughout the Western Ghats.
Rocky Riverbed There are flat sections between the tiers of these falls.
View from the Jeep: Ponmudi Thookkupalam A short distance south, we dove over the historic Ponmudi Hanging Bridge, near the Ponmudi Dam.
Almost Abstract: Ravine under the Hanging Bridge
An Intimate Moment It’s a narrow bridge – single vehicles and pedestrians only.
On Ponmudi Dam Going the other direction, we drive over the dam itself.
Roadside Stop We then drive up the hillside …
Red Tropical Hibiscus – Hibiscus × Rosa-Sinensis … where beautiful vegetation …
Over the Hills … extends far into the Western Ghats.
Portrait of a Local Man I can’t remember exactly where we were – but this is one of the reasons I love India: the locals are usually ready to be photographed!
It was a full day and wonderful day – and we still made it back for dinner!
Really??? THAT is my Trail ?? I had clearly bitten off more than I could chew: the Göynük Canyon in the foothills of Türkiye’s Taurus Mountains is stunningly beautiful, but not exactly easy to walk through!
I knew it might be tough – just not how tough!
I had booked myself a supported walk on the eastern section of the Lycian Way on the southern coastline of Türkiye. The full walk is 540 kilometers (335 miles), typically completed in 25 to 30 walking days – well beyond my ambitions or stamina. I decided on the eastern section because I had a group tour planned around Türkiye later in my proposed stay, and some of the stops on that itinerary overlapped with the WesternLycian Way.
Then COVID-19 hit. Travel stopped. I deferred my deposit. By the time I prepared to actually undertake the walk, I was two years older.
I arrived into Antalya on the bus from Bodrum (see: Bodrum: Türkiye’s Charming Southwestern Port) the evening before my trek, and was then driven the 45 minutes to my guest house in Göynük. After too much food and too little sleep, I was transported to and deposited at the entry of Göynük Gorge the next morning.
Estimates of the difficulty of this track vary. Some say “medium to hard”; others just say “hard” – and include words like “challenging” and “rugged”. In any event, I was panicked enough by the descriptions of the first day that I opted to send my cameras with the rest of my luggage rather than carry them. It was absolutely the right decision! I would have never finished if I had been carrying the extra weight.
My trip notes said: “You walk uphill all day …” and that felt about right. They also predicted: 17km (10.6mi) / 6hrs / +1200m / -510m. By contrast, my walker tracked: 22.31 km / 8:30 hrs / +1692 m / -1014 m. I emptied two external battery packs; thank heavens I had them, as the track was not always well-marked or obvious, and without the gps on my phone, I would have never found my way. I also drank copious amounts of water, and was grateful to find a kiosk where I bought an extra bottle towards the end of the day – which I also finished.
I’ve done the hard work; you can tag along with ease:
Pomegranate – Punica Granatum Nothing says “Mediterranean” to me like a tree full of fresh pomegranates! My guesthouse was set into beautiful gardens.
Follow The Food : A Turkish Breakfast for One! Add a pot of coffee – and I’m happy.
Entry to the Göynük Canyon This is the official start of the Likya Yolu – the Lycian Way. I don’t know whether I am more excited or nervous.
A Wild Turkish Goat Although bezoar ibex (Capra aegagrus aegagrus) are well distributed in this region, the statues at the park entry are the only ones I saw. Mind you, I spent a lot of time watching my feet on the incredibly rocky ground!
Lake at the Bottom I was worried about stopping too long here, but I couldn’t help admiring the Taurus Mountains as they reflected in the still waters.
Picnic Pagoda Contained within the Beydağları Coastal National Park, the Göynük Canyon is a popular recreational area.
Reflections in the Turquoise Because the water here comes down from the high surrounding mountains, it is incredibly clear – and cold year round.
Cream Pincushions – Scabiosa Ochroleuca This pretty little member of the honeysuckle family is widely distributed in Türkiye.
Göynük Canyon Clearly I had been distracted by the views – I missed my turn-off and had to backtrack.
It’s a Rough Trail to Follow! A narrow and exceptionally rocky trail zig-zags up through the pines.
Greek Strawberry Tree – Arbutus Andrachne – Ağacı
Views of the Mountains High above Göynük Canyon, I’m surrounded by Mediterranean pine and glimpses of mountaintops.
Sing in Praise of Good Boots! I’m thankful for the ankle support in my boots: the path continues rocky and steep. A twisted ankle while walking alone would not be ideal!
In the Mountain Peaks
Trees and Rocks on the Ridge It is ruggedly beautiful. I take a lot of pictures: partially because the constant uphill climb is killing me! I’m three hours in – and well behind schedule already.
Rocky Cairns Occasionally, small cairns mark the path to follow. I actually look out for them, because other markings are few and far between.
Mediterranean Pine – Pinus Brutia Also known as, Calabrian pine or Turkish pine, these trees grow tall and straight on the ridge lines – and twisted and gnarled on the windy edges of the forest. The pine needles are deep and soft underfoot.
Colchicum Variegatum Small members of the lily family decorate the forest floor.
Wild Buckwheat? Asteraceae?
Cyclamen Maritimum around a Boulder Little flowers hide everywhere – a welcome distraction from my fatigue.
Rocky Creek Finally I reach the creek I should have found by lunch time.
You are Kidding??? This section is even more overwhelming than I had anticipated. I couldn’t quite believe that a makeshift ladder was my only egress. Believe me: I looked for alternatives!
A Taurus Mountaintop Somehow, I made it through. I don’t remember how, but some tears and a lot of swearing were involved. Eight hours into my day, I was back in the mountaintops.
More Pine and Rocks
“Panoramic WC” Eventually, my path widens out into an actual track, and there are signs of civilization – including this charming loo with a view.
I never did quite reach my end point.
After finding a dirt road – about a kilometre from where I was meant to meet my ride – an unmarked car with an undindistingued driver pulled up beside me and offered me a lift. At least I think he did: he spoke almost no English, and I speak no Turkish. I politely declined, as I had no idea who he was. He then named the hotel I was aiming for. But, I was in the middle of nowhere – where else would I be going? Again, I declined, as this wasn’t the correct meeting spot. He then mentioned “Mr Deniz”, who was my local contact, and I relented and got in.
I later learned that every second man in this region is named Deniz! Fortunately, this actually was the driver for my hotel. We finally managed to chat a little in in German – which we both spoke badly. I arrived at my hotel late, drenched in sweat, and exhausted – but alive!
Fortunately, I had organised an extra rest day for myself – so hopefully – after that and a good sleep – I’d be ready for the next leg of this adventure.
A Lantern in the Labyrinth The narrow, winding laneways of the old medinas in Fes, Morocco, are distinguished by ornate multi-storied wooden buildings, richly decorated with carved cedar corbels and geometric lattice screens, and adorned with intricately carved stucco arabesques and calligraphy.
This is one of the world’s largest and oldest urban pedestrian zones (car-free areas) and I’d challenge you to find your way through the maze without getting lost. Fortunately, I was travelling with a small group (see: Intrepid Morocco in Depth) and we had a local guide who grew up in Fes el-Bali, playing in the tangle of narrow laneways around his home.
We started our day in the newer Fes Jdid (New Fez), established in 1276. We spent time admiring the magnificent gates of the Royal Palace of Fez (Dar al-Makhzen). The palace was originally built by the Marinid sultan Abu Yusuf Ya’qub in 1276, but much of what we see today dates to somewhere between the 17th and 20th centuries.
We then crossed outside the old city by bus to the locality of Ain Nokbi, where the city’s potters were relocated in 2013. There, we had views over the rambling old Fes el-Bali, and a chance to admire (and purchase) some wonderful traditional pottery (see: Traditional Moroccan Pottery and Ceramics).
After that, we headed into Fes el Bali, the Old Town, which was founded between 789 and 808 AD. There, we explored on foot – albeit with a careful eye out for our guide, so as not to get lost.
So much to see, so little time! Join me for a foray into an ancient city.
Man and a Map of the Medina Our local guide gives us an overview of the old city of Fes.
Main Gates of the Dar al-Makhzen The original foundation of the Fes Royal Palace dates back to 1276. These magnificent front gates, however, were built between 1969 and 1971. The seven monumental wooden doors are decorated with brass and framed by intricate zellige tilework and carved cedarwood canopy lintels.
I 💙 These Brass Door Handles!
Zellige Tilework Everything is ornately decorated. Traditional zellige tilework is made from handcrafted terracotta tiles, baked and mineral-glazed, then tessellated into intricate mosaics.
Behind the Fes Palace Away from the palace, a wide arterial street winds through one of the old quarters.
Storks on the Ramparts White storks (Ciconia ciconia) are big birds that range across Europe, Africa, and Asia. Here in Fes, they build their large stick nests on the fortifications in the city wall.
Fès el-Bali From a hill in Ain Nokbi, we have an extensive view over the terracotta rooftops and stone walls in the oldest walled medina in Fes: the Fes el-Bali.
A Window in the Wall The remains of old fortifications are everywhere.
Metal Fence
Guide in the Medina Inside the Fès el-Bali, our guide talks about his childhood growing up in these narrow lanes where everyone knew each other.
Breath In! Some of the walkways are impossibly narrow; many are dead ends.
In the Historic Medina de Fez Buildings rise up multiple stories either side of us.
Man in a Corridor This is still home for a lot of people. In fact, UNESCO cites the ever-increasing population in an already dangerously overpopulated area – and the urban over-development which is a consequence of that – as one of the principal risks to the site.
Under a Lattice Roof After a while, we come out into a wider avenue of shops.
R’cif Mosque Back in the open, we have a view of the R’cif Mosque. Built between 1792 and 1822 on a cliffside along the shore of the Bou Khrareb River (Oued Bou Khrareb), its minaret stands tall against the sky. The river is mostly underground now, but is followed by a major road which allows access for public transportation and emergency vehicles into the old city.
In the Fresh Foods Back under more lattice roofing, the crowded market aisle is lined with fresh and colourful produce.
Waiting for Customers The crowded market has as many locals as tourists, but the butcher has no customers.
Wool, Textiles, and Dye Pots We move from fresh goods to fabrics. Many of the shopfronts in the medina are also workshops where artisans dye and prepare wool.
Souk Sebbaghine – Dyers’ Market The colourful laneways are cobbled underfoot, and the lattice roofing allows some light and air.
Dyed Yarns Vivid yarns hang from the walls and overhead. The skeins include wool, cotton, and sabra (cactus silk).
Dyes – Natural and Otherwise Similarly, the dyes include traditional pigments like indigo for blue, henna for brown and orange, and turmeric or saffron for yellow, as well as more recent (and often cheaper) chemical dyes for virant reds, greens, and purples.
Medersa es-Seffarin – The Metalworkers’ Madrasa We round a corner out of the textiles and into the metalworks neighbourhood. The façade of the madrasa, or religious school, here is beautiful: decorated with intricately carved stucco and cedarwood.
Painter Meanwhile, everyday like goes on. Buildings need repairs …
Mailman … and mail gets delivered.
We had barely scratched the surface of this wonderful warren – but we still a few hours left!
Nature’s Artworks : An Evergreen Cycad against a Eucalyptus Forest The sights and scents of the Australian ‘bush’ are unique. The forests along the southeastern coast are home to a range of endemic plants. Here, the delicate-looking rich green fronds of a Burrawang (Macrozamia communis) – a locally-specific cycad – contrast against the tall, muted, trunks of the eastern Australian spotted gums (Corymbia maculata).
It is so easy to take one’s own backyard for granted!
After years of good intention but little action, I finally joined a local community walking group this year – the Bega Valley Bushwalkers -and managed to fit in some coastal walks in my region before setting off again on travel further afield.
One of these, back in early autumn, was in Mimosa Rocks National Park, just an hour north of me. While it is not the first time I’ve walked in this park (see: Coastal Walks, Far South Coast), this particular walk covered some sections that were completely new to me.
We started at the campground at Gillards Beach and hiked north, hugging the coast between Middle Beach and Middle Lagoon to the heritage-listed coastal property of Penders on Bithry Inlet, where we lunched. The return was via a different track through the woods back to Middle Lagoon, and then retracing our steps back to our cars.
This is considered a moderate hike by AllTrails, who follow the shorter straight out-and-back route. Thanks to the beach-walking and a few short uphills, I was exhausted when I finished. But the views and the beautiful coastal forests made it well worth it!
Join me among the eucalyptus:
Overlooking Gillard’s Beach It’s a short walk from the carpark to the path, which overlooks the stunning coastline, rich with the colours of the Sapphire Coast.
Coastal Rosemary – Westringia Fruticosa Although this regional native is named for the shape of it leaves rather than it’s smell, the flowers carry a very faint, sweet fragrance that contribute to the fresh smell of the bush.
Nature’s Sculpture: Rocks on Middle Beach There is beauty and drama everywhere I look.
Reeds and Grasses on the Lagoon Soon we are working our way along the narrow stretch of land separating the South Pacific Ocean and Middle Lake.Middle Lake is a coastal lagoon that is intermittently open to the sea.
A Tangle of Trees Twisted grey mangroves (Avicennia marina) are among the vegetation that grows along the shores of Middle Lagoon.
Across the Sands
Middle Lake Reflections
Still Waters Middle Lagoon is a pristine body of quiet water framed by dense eucalyptus forest and backed by the coastal hills of the Sapphire Coast.
Green Sections of Middle Lake are sheltered by the surrounding native coastal scrub and eucalyptus forest. The shady, shallow waters are covered with bright green aquatic plants.
Beautiful Invader Not all of the vegetation belongs here. Smooth cassia (Senna septemtrionalis) is an introduced shrub, widely considered an environmental weed in these eastern coastal regions.
Coastal Eucalyptus Forest We continue into a beautiful forest, mostly consisting of spotted gums (Corymbia Maculata), which thrive in these sandy coastal areas,
A Giant Eucalyptus The tallest known spotted gum in the world is in a forest about three hours north of here, but this one must be almost as large and old.
Spotted Gum – Corymbia Maculata It stretches up, straight and tall, through the canopy. These trees that typically grows to a height of 45–60 m (148–197 ft) – but I suspect that this one is taller.
Colourful Bark Spotted gums are distinguishable by their distinctive patchy and shedding bark …
Almost Abstract … which, with the leaf litter, makes colourful patterns at our feet.
Into the Woods The vegetation changes dramatically as we continue towards Bithry Inlet.
Lily in the Pond Know as Pender’s, this area is part of a State Heritage site that was home to a collection of buildings designed by the renowned architect Roy Grounds (1905 – 1981).
Quiet Waters on Bithry Inlet After lunch near Penders Beach, we find an alternate track back towards Middle Lagoon.
Eastern Grey Kangaroo -Macropus Giganteus We are treated to some native wildlife.
Bangalay Trees – Eucalyptus Botryoides Colloquially known as southern mahogany, these tree can grow as a straight-trunked tree to 40 m (130 ft) high in favourable conditions. In these coastal areas, however, winds, storms, and salty air twist and contort them into wonderfully gnarled shapes.
Twisting Gum Some of the eucalypts seem to grow more sideways than up.
Nature’s Artworks: Fabulous Fungus Shaggy cap mushrooms (Boletellus emodensis) love the sandy soils, leaf litter, and decomposing wood found here in the shadows of the eucalypts and she-oaks.
Lace Monitor A tree goanna (Varanus varius) scuttles off the path in front of us.
Back on Middle Beach Soon we are back walking along the beach, and almost back at our starting point.
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
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Until next time,
In the meantime, 
