 Crafting Moroccan Zellige Tilework
Morocco is known for its intricate, hand-crafted pottery and ceramics. Sometimes hand-painted and sometimes tessellated into intricate mosaics, colourful ceramics are fundamental to Moroccan architecture and daily life. I love pottery.
Not too far from my home, there is a Moroccan restaurant and emporium where all manner of colourful earthenware is available. While I have occasionally stopped for lunch, I have managed to resist buying house numbers, fountains, kitchenwares, or floor tiles.
But being in an actual traditional family-run pottery store in Fes, known as Morocco’s cultural capital, was a whole different story. I could have taken it all home!
One of the things I love about small-group travel is the access it gives you to local crafts and cottage industries. My group had driven into Fes the day before from the delightful blue city of Chefchaouen (see: Road Stops, Home Visits, and Fabulous Food). I had checked our trip itinerary, and – in addition to the usual notable mosques and palaces – our day in the historic UNESCO-listed, northern-inland Moroccan city of Fes included visits to textile weavers, a leather-works (Watch this space!), and a pottery workshop.
I was particularly excited about the pottery workshop for two reasons: firstly, I love watching and photographing artisans at work; and secondly, I had my heart set on a genuine tajine (shallow earthen pot): that iconic glazed pottery cooking utensil with a conical lid that Morocco is known for.
Art Naji was established inside the medina (old city) by the Fakhari brothers in 1930. Their operations (and those of other potters) were moved to Ain Nokbi, a district just outside the medina in 2013 to provide them with more space and to reduce the impact of the dust and heat of the kilns on the residents of the inner city.
Join me on a visit:
.jpg) Outside Art Naji
Now that the workshop is outside the medina, there is space! .jpg) Men outside Art Naji
Space to display some of the bigger pottery pieces. Intricate geometric and arabesque patterns are heavily influenced by Islamic and Berber art. Guide to the Workshop
Inside the building, we meet our guide, who will explain the work-flow to us. Bowl of Fridge Magnets Working on an Inlay
Zellige is a centuries-old art form – originating in 10th-century Morocco and southern Spain – using natural clay tiles that are molded, chiseled, and glazed by hand, and then inlaid into complex patterns. Zellige Tilework
The artisan uses a specialized hammer to create the intricate geometric shapes that zellige tiles are known for. The word zellige (zellij or zillij) comes from an Arabic word meaning “little polished stone” or “to slide”. Wet Clay Potter at a Wheel
Every step of the production process is as it once was … Potter at Work
.. starting with shaping the wet clay on a hand-turned wheel. Mini –Tajines in the Making Unglazed Pottery
Kiln-dried pottery waits to be painted, glazed, and re-fired. Jigsaw Puzzle
An authentic zellige tiled piece is expensive: understandable when you see the thought and work that goes into it. Painting a Bowl
Like everything else, painting the traditional colourful patterns is done by hand. Concentration
The detailed work takes focus and concentration. Work at Art Naji
Every nook and cranny is filled with pottery at various stages of completion. Craftsman Grinding and Polishing Beautiful Blues
I seem to have wandered full circle – but I can’t help but admire this beautiful piece. Vase
In a separate room, some stunning old pieces are on display. Arabic calligraphy is a common decorative theme. Fine Wares
The showroom features historic Moroccan ceramics – some of them very old – featuring traditional designs, variants of which are still in use. Blues
Fes is known for its blue-and-white patterns. Tagine On-Order
One corridor was full of dish-sets waiting for completion and shipping. I decided on one like this … The Crate
… and six months later it arrived! The Plates
It was so well wrapped it took me an hour to unbox it! As each piece is handcrafted, it is – as they say: “Perfectly imperfect.” I smile and remember Fes every time I use it.
Photos: 18October2024
Posted in Morocco,TravelTags: architecture,arts and crafts,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,Fes,Fez,Morocco,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Wooden Buildings in Telegraph Cove
The historic buildings in Telegraph Cove, on the eastern coast of Northern Vancouver Island, British Columbia (BC), Canada, are a perfect example of the importance in this part of the world of wood – for beauty, economic livelihood, and building; and water – for growth, sustenance, and transportation. I lived in Canada’s British Columbia (BC) for several years during my early childhood and again in my young adulthood. Even though I have lived many years in many other places, it still feels like “home”.
The end of the Covid19 lock-down years marked the end of a six-year absence.
For the first time in many years, I was going back on my own. This – amongst other things – meant breaking a long stay into manageable driving-bits.
British Columbia is not the easiest place to get around. Like the rest of the Pacific Northwest (PNW), it is renowned for its stunning, rugged coastline, lush temperate rainforests, and volcanic mountain ranges. This means great distance between places, lots of long and lonely winding roads, and expensive and time-consuming ferries to reach those many places that roads can’t get to on their own.
I carefully mapped out a large circuit which would take in requisite family visits with my scattered relatives, and would allow me to take care of business my husband left behind when he died. I also wanted to explore some “bucket list” places and catch up with old friends.
The plan was roughly 3000 km (about 1865 mi) with six ferry trips. The reality, with various opportunistic detours, ended up being considerably more. I have posted already about many of the places I visited (see: Wanders Canada 2022), but as always happens, I have photos remaining that didn’t quite make their own story. When I looked at these leftovers, I couldn’t help but think of two things that define British Columbia: wood and water.
And, the long roads that connect them …
Telegraph Cove
This was my first-ever foray to the northern end of Vancouver Island. I was headed to the ferry terminal at Port Hardy, and made the short detour off the main highway to visit one of Canada’s most picturesque villages. Named for a coastal telegraph station built over 100 years ago, Telegraph Cove grew into a logging and fishing hub before being virtually abandoned. Today, it is a popular summer eco-tourism destination and a gateway to Johnstone Strait, a mecca for whale watching, grizzly bear tours, and/or marine park exploration. Logging Operations
Johnstone Strait is still a logging hub. As I drive out of Telegraph Cove, I stop to look down over a dryland log-sort facility. Floating Log Boom Scotch Broom – Cytisus Scoparius Port Hardy Mooring
Water is central to transportation here: whether it is via small sailboats like this one, seaplanes, or the BC Ferry that makes the approximately 15-hour voyage up and down the inside passage to and from Prince Rupert. That long ferry trip was what I was waiting for (see: Up Canada’s Inside Passage). Street Mural – Quesnel
Just over two weeks later, I’m back on the mainland (See: In the North Country) and driving south – again through places whose names I know, but where I’ve never actually been. Fire Damage
A forest fire has preceded me here along the Cariboo Highway (Highway 97). Historic Anglican Church – 108 Heritage Museum at 108 Mile Ranch
The Cariboo Highway is dotted with places with rather unimaginative – but explanatory – names. Names like 70 Mile House, 100 Mile House, 141 Mile House, etc. The names are distance markers from Lillooet further south. Lillooet is the starting point of the historic Cariboo Wagon Road to Barkerville, the hub of the Cariboo Gold Rush. The discovery of gold in 1858 led to an influx of people – and the development of infrastructure to support the grueling 300-mile journey north. The 108 Heritage Museum has been preserved to mark this history – with most of the buildings there being original to the site. Little Shuswap Lake from Lee Creek Bridge
I detoured east to meet a friend in Revelstoke; this took me through southern Interior region of BC, an area I remember from childhood. Revelstoke Waterworks
Revelstoke, in the mountains of southern BC, was originally a railway town. It now relies more on forestry and tourism. Although the end of June was near, it was hardly warm enough to warrant the water park – and I was getting quite wet enough from the rain! Time for a Selfie
In spite of the rain, I wanted to explore. I stopped outside the Firefighters Museum to admire the historical firefighting equipment and artifacts inside. View over the Rivers
Revelstoke is near the headwaters of the Columbia River where the glacial Illecillewaet River runs into it. My walk takes me along the Greenbelt Pathway, which runs through the protected corridors on the banks of the rivers. Big Eddy Bridge
The rains come and go and the sky changes every minute. Mountains are all around. In the distance, a historic metal multi-span truss bridge crosses the Columbia River. Post Piles on the Hill
You are never far from signs of the lumber industry! The Greenbelt Trail takes me past the Downie Timber yard. Clustered Bellflower – Campanula Glomerata
Rainwater collects in the wildflowers at my feet. Bladder Campion – Silene Vulgaris Highway Driving
British Columbia has no shortage of mountains. I continued southwest through the passes. Pacific Dogwood
I had a few days in Mission, where the dogwood trees were in bloom – a sure sign summer is coming. Room With A View
I paid a visit to a friend who was living overlooking Whonnock Lake. Whonnock Lake Raindrops
This was our summer swimming place as teenagers. No one was swimming on this day … Canada Geese on the Lake
… except the geese. The Spirit of Haida Gwaii
Water and wood are central to all the British Columbia Coastal First Nation communities. The fabulous Jade Canoe in Vancouver Airport by renowned artist Bill Reid is representative of that, and brought me memories of the wonderful time I had spent on the magical northern islands of Haida Gwaii (see: Weekly Wanders Haida Gwaii). Almost Abstract: Dreams of Flight  Before I knew it, my time was over and I was back in the air and on my way to another adventure.
Wishing you Happy Roads!
Pictures: 03-04June2022 and 20-30June2022
Everlastings, Tea, and Mountains Forever …
The world’s highest tea plantation sits at 2400 m (7900 ft) in the Western Ghats of South India. This is the Kolukkumalai Tea Estate, which straddles the border between Kerala and Tamil Nadu. At top of the estate – only accessible by 4×4 jeep – the views go on forever. High in the Western Ghats of South India they grow tea.
The Kerala Tourism Organisation says the micro-climate at these altitudes produces a tea of exceptional quality with a distinctive flavour profile that sets it apart from other teas.
I’m not a tea drinker, so I can’t comment on that – but I can attest to the beauty of the location.
I had a week staying near the town of Munnar in Kerala, South India and had lined up various excursions for myself and my driver (eg: Where the Jungle Meets the Tea). A visit to the Kolukkumalai Tea Estate was high on my list.
Kolukkumalai is only about 30 kilometres from Munnar, but access to the higher reaches of the estate is exclusively by special 4×4 jeeps. My driver organised this for me and he happily tagged along.
The estate also offers a traditional tea factory visit the on the site, which I didn’t sign up for as I already had plans for a different tour (Watch this space!).
Join me on a bumpy ride high into the lush green highland plantations of the Western Ghats.
Scenes From A Jeep: Heading into the Plantation
The entry to the tea plantation is manicured and tidy. Tall Eucalyptus
I was surprised to see Australian gum trees along the boundary of the tea plantation – but apparently eucalyptus forests are often planted in these mountainous regions. A Sea of Green
As we drive up into the tea plantation itself, the tea plants (Camellia sinensis) stretch out in tidy rows. Tea Leaves
The pickers are skilled labourers who hand-select “two leaves and a bud” from each plant to ensure the best flavor. Tea Picker
Picking tea is a meticulous, highly skilled, and hard process – but the workers have ready smiles for visitors. At the Tea Plantation
The work doesn’t end when you have filled your basket: the tea has to get back to the factory somehow! I spent a summer in my youth picking strawberries (badly), so I have great admiration for and empathy with these workers. Large Loads The Road to High Tea
The upper plantation is only accessible by jeep. We had swapped our sedan for a 4WD with a designated driver who warned me to sit up straight and hold on. Even with my phone, it was almost impossible to take pictures as I bounced and jolted around the back seat. The road – if you can call it that – is a series of rocks, ruts, cracks, and potholes. And it got continually worse! Winding Roads
But the views! Looking back down the hill, you can see the dirt roads zig-zagging their way up through the tea bushes. Rhododendrons over the Jagged Peaks
At the top of the mountain, rhododendron bushes cling to the rocks and Tamil Nadu stretches out into the mists before us. Mysore St. John’s Wort – Hypericum Mysurense
These shrubs are native to the higher elevations of South India and Sri Lanka. Taking in the View
The jeep driver might have done this hundreds of times, but he still took the time to appreciate the view back down to the rivers entering Munnar far below. Nilgiri Rhododendron – Rhododendron Arboreum subsp. Nilagiricum Flowers on the Edge
The rhododendron bushes cling to the most improbable places! Lion Rock People along the Way
Other visitors to the mountaintop want to have their pictures taken with me. Nilgiri Tahr
High on a neighbouring peak – out of range of my eyes and camera – a number of the endangered endemic mountain goats clamber over the rocks. Over the Tea and Foothills Two Drivers : One Mahindra Jeep
The jeep driver and Rajesh, my regular driver, pose next to the Indian-made vehicle that got us up the mountainside. Kolukkumalai Tea House
The tea house is quiet – but I do manage to get a cup of coffee. Making Tea
The green-roofed building on the mountainside opposite us is the historic Kolukkumalai Tea Factory. It was built by the British in the 1930s and still produces organic tea in the traditional manner. Strawflowers – Xerochrysum Bracteatum
I love strawflowers – also known as paper daisies or everlastings. Everlasting Views
Although strawflowers are native to Australia, they have become common in high-altitude regions of the Western Ghats, particularly around the hill stations. Over the Kolukkumalai Tea and Silver Oak
Silver oak (Grevillea robusta) is planted among the tea bushes to anchor the soil and provide some sun protection to the precious tea leaves. It is another Australian import. Of course, the journey back down the mountain was as bumpy as the climb up!
But the trip through the lush green highland plantations and up into the magnificent Western Ghats was worth every bruise.
Until next time,
Happy Roads!
Pictures: 07February2023
Posted in India,TravelTags: environmental portrait,environmental portraits,India,Kerala,landscape,nature,people,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,tea,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Young Male Lion Surveying his Domain
Kenya’s Lake Nakuru National Park – about 164 kilometres (102 mi) north of Nairobi – protects a number of vulnerable animal populations and part of a unique UNESCO-listed lake system. Nakuru City sits on its boundary. I was excited about my first day in East African parks. In the few hours we had spent driving around Kenya’s Lake Nakuru National Park, we had seen two of the Big Five and numerous other magnificent wild animals.
The centrepiece and raison d’être of the park, of course, is the lake, known for its abundant birdlife. The lake sits high in the Rift Valley, 1,754 m (5,755 ft) above sea level. Where there was once a single, deep freshwater lake, there is now a system of three relatively shallow alkaline bodies of water: Lakes Nakuru, Bogoria, and Elementaita. As a group (Kenya Lake System of the Great Rift Valley), they were inscribed by UNESCO in 2011, and were called “a natural property of outstanding beauty…”.
Nakuru is in a endorheic basin with no outflow, and in recent years the waters have been rising alarmingly. This has resulted in the displacement of animals and the destruction of property – including the submersion of the main entrance gate and other park infrastructure.
It also meant we had to keep an eye on the skies: afternoon rains could wipe out our access to already-marginal dirt roads.
Still, we enjoyed a lot of animal sightings (see: In Search of the Five #1) and, although I missed out on the fabled flamingos because the winds came up, I did add to my bird count.
I also added to my sightings of the Big Five and the Ugly Five!
Join me around the waters of Lake Nakuru:
Scenes from a Land Cruiser
A dirt road – vulnerable to the rains and the rising waters – winds down to the lake and disappears. Makalia Falls
Because of the recent rains, this little waterfall at the extreme southern end of the park is brown with runoff soil. Common Warthogs – Phacochoerus Africanus
Nearby, we spot examples of the Ugly Five. Wallowing Warthogs (Phacochoerus Africanus)
The abundance of rain means there are large puddles everywhere, and the animals don’t have to congregate at the main waterholes to drink or cool off. Wallowing Buffalo
Not far away, another mud puddle is being appreciated by a large Cape buffalo (Syncerus Caffer Caffer). African Spoonbill – Platalea Alba
There are always special pictures I didn’t get! When we arrived at the edge of the lake, three flamingos were standing – perfectly reflected in the still waters. My driver, however, was determined to turn the vehicle around. By the time he did, the wind had come up to ruffle the surface of the water, the flamingos had scattered, and I had to content myself with other birds. Marabou Storks – Leptoptilos Crumenifer
These large birds certainly qualify for their place on the Ugly Five list! Black-Headed Heron – Ardea Melanocephala Flamingos and Great White Pelicans (Pelecanus Onocrotalus)
Lake Nakuru is known for its thousands – sometimes millions – of flamingos: lesser flamingos and greater flamingos. I had to settle for these three – and I’m not sure which kind they are. African Sacred Ibis – Threskiornis Aethiopicus Bald Eagle in a Fever Tree
I know: the eagle is almost invisible, but I love the elegant beauty of these trees. Olive Baboons – Papio Anubis
The baboons are quite at home on the direction signs. In the Foliage Baboon Crossing
The animals know they have right-of-way; they are completely unperturbed by our vehicle. Guides Passing
The drivers and guides all know each other, and always stop to compare notes about what they have seen and which animals are where. Lions in the Road
This was amazing! Three lionesses were trying to herd ten cubs onto the road. Herding Cats
The guides believed that because the rains were imminent, the mothers wanted their very-new cubs out of the undergrowth where they would get soaked and soggy. Make sure the volume is up on the following short clip: Young Male
This male was some distance away from the females and cubs, and is too young to likely have had anything to do with them. Defassa Waterbucks – Kobus Ellipsiprymnus Defassa
A herd of large antelopes grazes among the acacias. Male Defassa Waterbuck – Kobus Ellipsiprymnus Defassa
One young male watches us closely – or is he posing? Young males are usually chased out of the main herd as soon as they start developing horns, and group themselves into bachelor herds. Vervet Monkeys – Chlorocebus Pygerythrus Pelicans and Dead Trees
Back at the lake, the wind is rising and the rains are close. The effects of the rising water levels – attributed to climate change – are evident. The waters have increased the lake’s reach, swallowed park infrastructure, and killed vegetation. Yellow-Billed Storks – Mycteria Ibis
These large and long-legged African storks feed in the shallows and mudflats at the lake’s edge. Great White Pelicans – Pelecanus Onocrotalus
These massive waterbirds fascinated me; the are quite different in shape and colouring to the Australian pelicans on my estuary at home. The afternoon was turning to evening, and the impending rain threatened to turn dirt roads to mud. We bid farewell to this delightful park and pointed the Land Cruiser toward town and the evening’s accommodation.
The next day, we had an early morning start for the long drive to the legendary Maasai Mara National Reserve.
Until then,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 11May2026
Posted in Africa,Animals,TravelTags: animals,Birdlife,birds,Kenya,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall,waterbirds
The Big and the Beautiful
Many people go to Kenya’s Lake Nakuru National Park in search of the Big Five – which include the unpredictable and dangerous African (Cape) buffalo populating the background of this landscape. I personally prefer the graceful animals of the plains – like this elegant Grant’s zebra (Equus quagga boehmi), the smallest of the plains zebras. There is so much more to Kenya than just the animals.
But, as I was going there anyway, not taking advantage of the game parks seemed a waste – especially as it had been many years since I had visited an African national park (see: Etosha, Namibia).
I was signed onto a photographic trip to Kenya’s northern tribal villages (Watch this space!), and decided to arrive early and take myself on a game safari through some of East Africa’s National Parks. With the benefit of comparison sites, I found a ten-day safari through five parks, starting in Nairobi, Kenya at the crack of dawn, and ending in Arusha, Tanzania mid-afternoon.
The company I booked through provided no input on before- and after-arrangements, so I found an overnight accommodation close to the airport on Booking.com for the night before my 7am collection. I arrived into Nairobi, full of optimism – only to discover that my ‘taxi driver’ needed my GoogleMaps to find the hotel. When we finally arrived after a few loops around the airport expressway, the gate security staff at the complex had no idea what we were talking about, and the phone number I had been given wasn’t answering.
So – off to another hotel – and onto the task of sending messages to every number I could find for the Safari company to make sure the driver knew where to find me the next day.
After that inauspicious start, I was pleased to be collected on time in the morning – albeit into a grubby (but serviceable) Land Cruiser for the four-hour drive north-west: into the edges of the Rift Valley and almost to the equator.
Once there, we entered Lake Nakuru National Park.
This park is known for its abundant wildlife – especially the myriad of birds around the alkaline lake itself, which sits at 1,754 m (5,755 ft) above sea level. In 2011, the Kenya Lake System of the Great Rift Valley, which includes Lake Nakuru – along with Lake Bogoria and Lake Elementaita – was inscribed by UNESCO as “a natural property of outstanding beauty…”.
We had a picnic lunch overlooking the lake, and a full afternoon of exploring the muddy ‘roads’ before pulling into the night’s accommodation in the outskirts of Nakuru City.
Join me for Part One of our drive to and around Lake Nakuru:
Nairobi Sunrise
Because Nairobi sits just below the equator, sunset and sunrise from the top-floor restaurant of my modest hotel were both dramatic and quick. Overlooking the Rift Valley
One of my most vivid childhood memories is a television program about how the remains of the Australopithecines and Homo habilis were found. This is the place: the cradle of humanity! Elephants at the Souvenir Stand
It feels wrong to be considering souvenirs on day one of a trip – but who could resist? Scenes from a Land Cruiser
The highway we are on is smooth enough, and full of vehicles – but modernity falls away at the verge. The shoulders and slip roads are all dirt and mud puddles, and shopfronts are mostly colourfully painted concrete blocks. Lake Nakuru Park Ranger on the Job
We finally reach the entrance to the National Park, where the rangers are well armed. Kenya has a “shoot-to-kill” poaching prevention strategy, which has greatly reduced the problem in the country. Superb Starling – Lamprotornis Superbus
I always get excited by my first animals – even when they are birds! These cheeky little beauties are so prevalent that they were almost picked to be Kenya’s national bird. Lake Nakuru
Once part of a deep freshwater lake, Nakuru is in a endorheic basin with no outflow. As a consequence, it has become a soda or alkaline lake which hosts a diversity of birdlife. We stopped for an early lunch at a picnic site overlooking the rising waters. Toilet Paper Plant – Plectranthus Barbatus
Our lunch stop gives me the chance to examine the local flora. These plants were traditionally used for toilet paper and sanitary products. The leaves are naturally antibacterial and have a fresh, herbal scent. Fever Tree – Vachellia Xanthophloea
Early European settlers blamed this tree – rather than the mosquitoes that shared the swampy ground it often grows in – for malaria. The thorns are deadly! African Daisies – Osteospermum Buffalo Grazing
The first of the Big Five we come across are the Cape buffalo. They are known for their unpredictable behaviour and their tendency to congregate near water sources. Cape Buffalo – Syncerus Caffer Caffer
Big-game hunters in the 19th-century named the most dangerous and difficult animals to hunt on foot the Big Five. Male Impala – Aepyceros Melampus
A red billed oxpecker (Buphagus erythrorhynchus) feeds on the ticks that have made their home on an impala. More Buffalo Rhinos Resting
Lucky for me, my guide spotted another one of the Big Five – these rhinos in the shade of tree. White Rhinoceros – Ceratotherium Simum
Patience paid off! We waited in the Land Cruiser – and one of the often-elusive rhinos stood up and revealed themselves. Another Herd of Cape Buffalo
The buffalo were everywhere! The males are huge, weighing in at 500 to 900 kg (1102 to 1984 lbs). Buffalo in the Landscape Look Up!
The tall acacia trees are the perfect giraffe habitat. A Rothschild’s giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis rothschildi) happily browses on the thorny branches. An Aviat A-1 Husky
Not everyone drives to the park! Giraffes
A population of the near-threatened Rothschild’s giraffes (Giraffa camelopardalis rothschildi) was moved to safety here in Lake Nakuru National Park from Western Kenya in 1977. Rothschild’s Giraffes
These beautiful giraffes are distinguishable by their white kneesocks and relatively light coat markings. Grant’s Zebra – Equus Quagga Boehmi
It was an unusually wet year, so the grass has grown rich and green. The animals are everywhere! Impala – Aepyceros Melampus
Female impala graze in herds scattered around the grasslands. A Male Impala – Aepyceros Melampus
One male impala dominates the harem, while a small band of ‘bachelors’ practice their fighting skills nearby – waiting for the opportunity to oust the alpha and take over. A Tangle of Giraffes
In spite of their near-threatened status, Rothschild’s giraffes seem to be doing well in the park. Male Giraffes
Everywhere I look, they stand out tall against the sky. Although we only saw two of the Big Five, we certainly experienced a rich array of beautiful and healthy-looking animals on our travels around the park.
Clouds were rolling in, and it was time to head back to the lake in search of waterbirds before our day was washed out – along with the roads!
More on that soon.
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 11May2026
Posted in Africa,Kenya,TravelTags: animals,Kenya,landscape,National Park,nature,Photo Blog,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall
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