.jpg) Through the Layers of Time
On Cedar Island – also known as Cleopatra Island – in the Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye, a traditional Turkish gulet sailing vessel is framed by the ruins of the small 13CE Kitsak Church, built when the Karia region was under the rule of the Eastern Roman Empire. Elsewhere on this little island, visible ruins of city walls, a small theater, and a temple, date back to Ancient Greece and remind us that the region was once the property of Rhodes. There is something surreal about about dipping into waters where the Egyptian Queen Cleopatra once swam!
Just off the coast in Muğla Province, in the southwestern corner of Türkiye there is a small island called Sedir Adası, or Cedar Island. In the beautiful Gulf of Gökova, a southeastern arm of the Aegean Sea, this island was once a source of cedar. Today the island and its surroundings are covered with a dense, Mediterranean shrubland, and olive and pine groves.
And ruins – Ancient Greek and Roman ruins.
Alternately called Cleopatra Island, it is said that Antony and Cleopatra had a love-nest here – and that the golden sands on the beach where they swam were brought in by ships from the Red Sea in North Africa on the orders of Mark Antony. It has also been said that this type of sand can only be found in Egypt (see: Visiting the Cleopatra Island).
Unfortunately, the claims are dubious. Contemporary research suggests that the tiny, pearl-like grains of sand – while exceptionally rare – are the result of continual erosion of the sandstone bed on site. And, this is not the only Cleopatra Beach in Türkiye!
But, much of the history is real. The ruins are real. And, the island and beach truly are beautiful – well worthy of Antony and Cleopatra. The sands are protected – with prohibitions against removing any, or even walking on it barefoot. Access to the shallow sea for swimming is via designated points.
The island is small: less than 1 km (0.62 mi) long and divided in the middle by a narrow isthmus. Remnants of the strong ashlar wall that once surrounded the original settlement are still standing just above the water-line on higher ground and within forested areas.
The whole island is managed by the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism like an open-air museum. I was happy to pay the modest entrance fee to explore the layers of history scattered around, and to admire the unique beauty. Join me!
.jpg) Watch the Marker!
I was on a small-ship circuit in the wonderful Gökova Gulf in southwestern Türkiye. We had spent the morning sailing and swimming and kayaking (see: Sailing the Turquoise Waters). Mid-afternoon, our next destination: Sedir Adası (Cedar Island) comes into view. .jpg) “Kaptan Yarkin”
There are plenty of other gulets on the gulf, with their passengers taking advantage of the beautiful autumn weather.  Ruins on Sedir Adası
As we get closer to the island, the remains of what was once a significant Dorian settlement come into view. Tourist Boats in a Cove
Cedar Island is about 20 minutes from Çamlı Pier on the mainland, and plenty of tourist boats offer the trip. Cleopatra Island
This hot, dry landscape was once a trade and olive-growing hub. The 13CE Kitsak Church
From 129 BCE, the city here came under the rule of Rome – and remained so until the full domination of the Ottoman Empire in the first quarter of the 15th century. Wooden Walkway
A network of wooden walkways wind through scrub, past the ruins, and over the precious sands at the beach. Kleopatra Plaji – Cleopatra Beach
The depth of colour in the turquoise water changes with every shift in the light. Late Miocene Volcanic Rock
The walkway might be designed to protect the precious sand, but I’m pleased that it also protects me from that rough volcanic rock. Schooners in the Cove
Cleopatra Beach in on the north side of an isthmus; I have views through the Mediterranean scrub to boats anchored in a cove … Protected Waters
… and across grasslands to a shallow inlet. Kedreai Theatre
The theatre, which was built in the 4th century BCE, lies outside the city walls. It is not in particularly good shape, but I think the crumbling seats with the olives growing amongst them have far more charm than a renovated space. Posing in Kedreai Theatre Antik Tiyatro – Ancient Theatre
The theatre was large for the size of the settlement, with a capacity of 2500 people. Hellenistic Ruins and Wall
The ashlar wall that once surrounded the settlement is so well-built and durable that much of it stills stand against the sea. Archaeological Dig Team
Parts of the ruins are roped off, with teams of archaeologists carefully working through them. A Dry Landscape
Much of the old settlement has been reclaimed by nature. Hellenistic Ruins
The whole area is strewn with broken columns, capitals, and stones decorated with pictures and reliefs. Archaeologist at Work
It is very hot and silent as I wind my way through the ancient site. Apollon Kutsal Alanı – Sanctuary of Apollo
There was a temple here, dated to 2 BCE and thought have been dedicated to Apollo. Cleopatra’s Waters
Back at the beach, a gentle tide washes against the barriers protecting the golden sand. Natures Artworks : Pebbles and Shells on Cleopatra’s Beach
Looking at the rounded edges of the shells on the beach, it is easier to understand how the golden beach sands have been formed into tiny spherical grains of calcium carbonate (ooids) over thousands of years. Swimmers in Cleopatra’s Waters
Lots of visitors to the island take advantage of swimming in the shallow, silky waters off the beach. Cleopatra’s Waters With its golden sands, turquoise waters and fabulous mountain backdrop, it truly is a beautiful place.
Until next time,
Safe Sailing!
Photos: 04October2022
Water Colours
The tiny island of Banda Api in Indonesia’s Banda Sea, is home to a few people, the tiny mosque of Masjid Nur At Taqwa, and Gunung Api, a highly active volcano. (04April2025) Imagine living in the shadow of an active volcano!
Gunung Api – or Fire Mountain – is a peak of about 640-650 m. (2100-2133 ft.) on the little island of Banda Api in the province of Maluku, Indonesia. The almost-circular island has a diameter only 3 kilometres (1.9 mi), and most of it rises steeply to the volcanic peak.
Banda Api is at the center of the Banda Islands, a volcanic group of ten small islands in the Banda Sea. Between 1586 and 1988 the volcano on Banda Api erupted over twenty times. The last eruption was on May 10, 1988: three people died, and the rest of the population of 1,800 islanders as well the majority of the residents of nearby Banda Neira were evacuated to Ambon, the capital and largest city in the province, some 200 kilometers away.
Today, the volcano is still classed as “highly active” and is subject to scrutiny (see: Global Volcanism Program. Smithsonian Institution). The scars on the land still show, only a small subset of the previous inhabitants have moved back, and trekking to the peak is not recommended.
My small ship, the Coral Geographer, was anchored for two days in the Zonnegat Channel, the narrow body of water that separates Banda Api from its much smaller, but more populated neighbour Banda Neira. I had made boat excursions to Banda Neira a couple of times (see: In the Historic Town of Banda Neira), and had snorkeled in the coral reef which had established itself on the lava flow (see: In and On the Banda Sea), but I had yet to visit the volcanic island itself.
Having had tantalising glimpses from the ship and from the tenders, I was really looking forward to exploring what I could of the island. Unfortunately, this was the sort of voyage where: if it could go wrong, it would. I got up early for a 0630am tender departure – but as soon as we landed on Banda Api and met our local guides, the skies opened up.
In spite of the heavy rain, I did manage to follow the narrow concrete path for a walk past typical simple houses, fine forests, tropical gardens, and the little mosque that I had been watching from my porthole. Somewhere along the way, I gave up on using the cameras, and the guides turned us back because they deemed the path ahead too slippery.
Ah well – a short visit is better than none!
Volcanic Landslip
Evidence from the most recent eruption on Banda Api is still visible on the mountainside. (03April2025) From My Window
Is it a porthole if it is square? My view of the little mosque on Banda Api had me keen to visit the next day. (03April2025) Gunung Api – Mount Api
From Fort Belgica on Banda Neira on our first day, I had great views over the volcanic island next door. (03April2025) Mosque on Banda Api
It was still dark when I went out to board my tender for the morning’s excursion. (04April2025) Morning Light on Banda Neira
As we set off in the tenders, morning light breaks through the wet clouds. (04April2025) Masjid Hatta-Syahrir
With around 7,000 inhabitants, Banda Neira is much more populous than Banda Api, and is home to more than one mosque. We get views of the waterfront as we make our way across the channel to Banda Api. (04April2025) Village Host
When we arrive on Banda Api, the villagers greet us on the shore and make ready to walk us through the small village. (04April2025) A Winding, Wobbly Path
Volcanic stone is incorporated into the narrow path that winds through the village clinging to the shoreline. (04April2025) Boats on the Shoreline
Life on the island is dependant on the surrounding sea. Outboard motors are the community’s lifeblood. (04April2025) Boats Reflected
I love how the light bounces off the wet boats. “Give Me Shelter”
Like in much of the tropics, housing is simple and made from a combination of new and recycled materials. Rose Apples – Syzygium Jambos
Common across Asia, rose apples are a tropical fruit in the myrtle family. The rose apples we used to buy in Thai supermarkets were clearly a different variant, as they were about the size of a pear. These were tiny! Papaya – Carica Papaya
You will never go hungry in the tropics! Between the sun, the rain and humidity, and the fertile soil, fruit trees grow fast and tall. Masjid Nur At Taqwa
In spite of the rain, I managed to make it as far as the tidy little mosque. Boats in the Rain Our Ship from the Shore
Our nearby vessel almost disappears into the tropical rainstorm. A Tidy Porch
We take refuge on the porches of kind residents. Rain like Icicle LED Lights In the Rear View
Soaked to the skin, we reboarded the tenders and made our way back to the ship. As I said, a short visit is better than none – and the hot shower in my cabin back on board was most welcome.
For, even in the tropics, rain is wet.
Safe Sailing!
Pictures: 03-04April2025
A Smiling Welcome
We were only an hour outside Morocco’s northeastern city of Fes when we made a welcome stop at the Barrage Sidi Chahed, an artificial reserve surrounded by beautiful low mountains. I was sorry to say goodbye to Chefchaouen in northwestern Morocco; it had to be one of my favourite places in the country so far (see: Weekly Wanders Chefchaouen).
But, my small group was heading south, driving the roughly 200 km (124 mi) to Fes.
We broke the three and a half hour journey at a roadside viewpoint overlooking the Barrage Sidi Chahed (Sidi Chahed Dam) on the Oued Mikkès. The reservoir, backed by beautiful iron and copper-colored mountains, is primarily a water supply dam, but it also serves as a recreational area.
Fes is called the spiritual and cultural heart of Morocco, and it quickly became my new favourite. My room in a sprawling riad-style “palace” inside the medina (old city) was large and comfortable – although the four-poster bed was almost as wide as the room, making entry a bit tricky! I quickly discovered I had access to the rooftop terrace, which afforded wonderful views over the Old City and historic fortifications.
Our evening meal was at a home-turned-restaurant, where we were treated to a traditional chicken pastilla – a sweet and savoury concoction of layered pastry and meat, cooked with eggs, caramelised onions, lemon and sugared almonds, spiced with cinnamon, ginger, and saffron, and then topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon.
Join me:
Local Agriculture
This is clearly farming country! Much of the water supply comes from the artificial lake created by the nearby Sidi Chahed dam on the Oued (River or Wadi) Mikkès. Lac (Lake) de Sidi Chahed
Place names are ongoing evidence of the long years of French “protection” in Morocco – which finally ended in 1956. Souvenir Stand
Where there is a view, there WILL be a souvenir stand. Souvenirs
This one featured woven basketry and Moroccan patterned ceramics … Traditional Handmade Keychains and Tassels
… as well as colourful tassels on hamsa (Hand of Fatima) charms. Barrage (Dam) Sidi Chahed
It is a beautiful and tranquil spot; the colours are quite magnificent. Making Juice
Clearly a fair bit of effort goes into pressing the pomegranates. Pomegranate Juice
The October afternoon is quite warm, so the salesmen does good trade with our small group. Mint Tea
When we arrive at Riad Houyam, our home for the next three nights, we are treated to a traditional welcome of mint tea. Outdoor Water Fountain
Like so many buildings in Morocco, our riad (also called Palais Houyam) features copious ornate tiling and an outdoor water tap. View over the Pool and Surrounds
The flat-top construction means there are plenty of upstairs terraces to explore, … View from the Rooftop
… and I can see as far as the ancient city fortifications on the hill: the 16th-century fortress Borj Nord and the 14th century Merenid (Marinid) Tombs. Our Host
Later in the day, we walk the short distance to Riad El Yacout, where we find more pillars and tiles. Our host tells us the history of the restored 16th century private residence, which now operates as a hotel and ‘restaurant’. First Course: Moroccan Salads
Chopped and seasoned cooked carrots, beetroot and other vegetables, olives, and rice are among the entrées. Moroccan Pastilla (Bastilla)
Dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar, our main course is the celebrated chicken pie in filo pastry. My verdict: unusual! Preparing More Tea
Mama, the home-owner and pastilla-maker, comes out to be introduced, and to pour our mint tea. Old Streets of Fes
After dinner, we walk back to our riad … Narrow Streets
… through the dark streets of the old city. Full Moon over Fes
From the rooftop, I watch the moon rise over the old city. Daybreak
The next morning, I find a spot on the terrace to do my yoga. I was ready to sample more of the city – and after a scrumptious breakfast, that’s just what we did.
 Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 17October2024
Posted in Adventure,Food,Morocco,TravelTags: architecture,environmental portraits,food,landscape,Morocco,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Mountaintops and Icicles
The views over the Mont Blanc massif from the Aiguille du Midi in the French Alps are just jaw-dropping. Mont Blanc is more than just a mountain.
As the highest mountain in the Alps and Western Europe, it lends its name to a range of peaks – the Mont Blanc massif – which straddle France, Italy, and Switzerland.
I had taken the train from Paris (see: On and Around the Seine) to Geneva, Switzerland, where I was spending a few days catching up with friends in the evenings, and amusing myself in the daytime. I booked myself onto self-guided day trip to Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, the famous site of the first Winter Olympics, back in 1924.
I had to remember to pack my passport: Chamonix, as the little mountain-resort at the base of Mont Blanc is more commonly known, is close to Geneva – but is back across the border in France.
My trip included a trip up the mountain from Chamonix; not up Mont Blanc as I had thought, but up L’Aiguille du Midi (The Southern Needle), a neighbouring peak in the massif. From the top of this 3,842-metre-tall (12,605 ft) mountain, there are stunning views over a range of peaks, including Mont Blanc (4,808–meter-tall (15,774 ft)) itself.
Access to the top of the Aiguille du Midi is via cable car (see: Aiguille du Midi). Opened in 1955, this gondola held the title of world’s highest for about two decades. It still has the record for the highest vertical ascent, gaining over 2,800 m (9,200 ft) in its 20 minute trip from Chamonix to the peak.
Most of my trip up the mountain was shrouded in cloud, and I was starting to despair. But, as we approached the summit of Aiguille du Midi, we broke through into blue skies. The jagged, snow-dusted peaks of the Alps stretched out all around in breath-taking beauty.
View From The Bus
My day starts on a bus, travelling south east from Geneva. The names on the highway signs thrill me as we head towards the Mont Blanc Tunnel under the Alps. Chamonix Gondola
It is noon, and the autumn sun sneaks over the top of Aiguille du Midi as we wait for the cars on the lower portion of our journey. Waiting for the Second Cable Car
Clouds have descended and there is not much of a view as we wait at the middle station of Plan de l’Aiguille. View from the Cabin
Via the curved perspex of the gondola car, blue sky and a first glimpse of snow appear. View Interrupted
Through the front of the cabin, we can see the top station on Aiguille du Midi. Impossibly Steep
The side of the mountain has an almost perpendicular drop as we climb to the top. Almost Abstract : Portrait of a Gondola Operator Just Wow! No Editing Required!!
A couple of days later, a friend of mine living in Geneva asked me if the trip was worth it. I sent him a few shots – straight off the iPhone. The pictures speak for themselves. Jagged Mountaintops
Of course, photos from the mirrorless cameras have more depth – but, either way, the views are unbeatable! Mont Blanc Massif and Icicles Jagged Peaks and Climbers
We can see the tracks of the climbers who are traversing the snow before dropping down over the ridge. Perched over the Boulders
The complex at the top of the Aiguille du Midi comprises several levels and accommodates 360° views. I certainly got my steps in! Aiguille du Geant and Grand Jorasses
These granite peaks are popular for high-altitude climbing – though I don’t see anyone there. Now THAT is a Team Building Exercise!
Closer to our peak, another group of climbers sets off. Close Up of Climbers
One of the attendants told me this was a pre-booked work group. Master of the Climb
An instructor puts alpine climbers through their rappelling / abseiling paces. They can then climb back up from the Cosmiques Ridge using a metal ladder. Le Tube
An enclosed tubular walkway completely circles the summit of the Aiguille du Midi. It is long enough that I didn’t feel as if I was going in spirals. More Peaks
But, I got so confused, I had no idea where I was or which way I was facing most of the time! The Palier Hypoxie Exhibition
We are at high altitude here, and therefore at risk of lightheadedness, dizziness, and even possibly serious altitude sickness. Round Rock and Jagged Peaks Like an Aerie or a Fortress Through the Windows
The views go on in all directions. Nature’s Tapestry
Having gone full-circle – at least twice – I head back to the gondola platform. Hikers
I ride back down in comfort – feeling a bit sorry for the hikers in the mist with their full packs! What a truly magnificent place!
I was so glad to have had the experience – and I still had the town and nearby glacier to explore.
 Until then,
Happy travels!
Photos: 02October2024
Where the Jungle Meets the Tea
The bare stone of Anamudi Peak, the tallest mountain in the Western Ghats of South India, rises up from the jungles of Eravikulam National Park and the surrounding tea plantations. When you think of India, what do you think of first?
I think of colour and culture and chaos and crowds.
Kerala, in the southwest is all that. But, it is also impossibly green hill stations in the foothills, countless rivers and waterways in the valleys, and the rugged mountains of the Western Ghats higher up.
Many of these wild landscapes are protected – even when people live within them, or next to them. Eravikulam National Park, home to leopards, tigers, and countless birds and other animals, was the first national park established in Kerala. The contiguous Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary helps in the conservation and protection of forests and wildlife in the mountains. The town of Marayoor sits on the road that links the parks, and 11 traditional ethnic tribal settlements are scattered inside the boundaries of Chinnar.
I didn’t see any of the cats, elephants, or gaur that the region is known for on my park-ranger supervised trek through the grasslands, shrublands, and forests of Eravikulam National Park, or on my foray into the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary. I did find deer, chital, and monkeys around the settlements outside the park.
I was staying near the town of Munnar, in Kerala, South India, and – with the help of GoogleMaps and TripAdvisor – had lined up various excursions for myself and my driver (see: Water in the Valleys; Tea in the Mountains). On this particular day, we headed north out of the foothills and higher into the mountains, where every shade of green was represented in the sprawling vistas.
View over the Adjacent Tea Plantation
It was only a short drive from my resort, which was surrounded by tea plantations, to the entry to Eravikulam National Park. There, more tea bushes stand between us and Anamudi: India’s tallest peak (2,695 metres – 8,842 ft) outside the Himalaya. Orange Cymbidium Orchid
Above the car park, a glasshouse contains a huge variety of beautiful orchids. Pink Cymbidium Orchid
I spend some time admiring the flowers before we set off into the park itself. Nilgiri Tahr Statues
Eravikulam National Park is a haven for Nilgiri tahr (Nilgiritragus hylocrius), a mountain goat endemic to the Western Ghats. The statues at the park entry were the only trace we saw of these endangered animals. Trekking Route
One is not allowed to set out into the park alone. For a small fee (plus extra for the cameras), I went on a walk with a forest ranger and a couple of young Indian newlyweds. We started on a path that follows the boundary between the park and the bordering Kallar Estate tea plantation. Rocky Pool
Before long, we turn in towards a pond, which was complete with a small waterfall. Rocky Creekside
Upstream from the rockpool, a trickle of water works its way through a tangle of trees in the moist deciduous forests. Blue Corn-Lilies – Aristea Ecklonii
Originally from Africa, these small evergreen perennials are now common in South India. Anamudi Peak Rising from the Tea
Anamudi means “elephant head,” which the bare peak sometimes resembles – although it looks different from every angle. Slipper Flower – Calceolaria
Two types of yellow slippers grow here; I can’t tell them apart. Waterfall of Uncertain Name
A short walk away, we come to a steep rock face. One name I’ve been given for this falls is Anamudi Peak Waterfall; another is Eravikulam National Park Waterfalls. My phone told me it was Nyayamakad Waterfall – but that is on the other side of the road. Rocks and Reflections
It is a dry season: there is not much water tumbling down the drop into the pond below. People Along The Way
The newlyweds dip their feet and pose on the rocks. Park Guard
Our guide is happy to face the camera in the bright sunshine. Over the Hills of Munnar
The views from the trekking path stretch out over the tea gardens of Munnar and the foothills of the Western Ghats. Path through the Tea Anamudi Peak behind the Tea Rocky Creek through the Tea
Textures are everywhere … Munnar Tea and Mountains
… and every shade of green is represented. Indian Jungle
Back in the car, we drive north through the Marayoor Sandalwood Forest … Sambar Deer – Rusa Unicolor
… where deer can be seen foraging behind the fence that keeps us out, and them off the road. Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary
We continue north into the montane rain forest, where we fail to catch sight of any of the 28 mammal species that make their homes here. We did have nice views over the Western Ghats and Toovanam Waterfall. Park Attendants
Back in the town of Marayoor, we stop into the Rahjiv Gandhi Nature Park, where there are plenty of cheeky monkeys, and families with small children. I have a chat with the young women at the entry. Tall Tree Trunks
Starting from the original natural forest here, the State Forest Department runs a ‘Sandalwood Regeneration Experimental Plot’ in Marayoor. Sandalwood trees rely on other plants for nutrients during their first ten years, which might explain why there appear to be banyans in the grove. Cooking Lunch
Finally! My driver takes pity on me and finds a local restaurant for a very late lunch. Food on a Banana Leaf
Although lunch is whatever happens to be cooking on the day and is served on a banana leaf, they did take pity on me and find me a spoon. Axis Deer – Axis Axis
Daylight is falling. Finally some wildlife comes out! A number of chital – small spotted deer – cross the road skittishly in front of us. Bonnet Macaque – Macaca Radiata
The monkeys are far less timid, and go about their business. Raising the Boom Gate
Late in the afternoon, an attendant raises the barrier to let us out of the contiguous parks and villages within them.
I’m always amazed by the amount of bird and other wildlife to be found in India’s urban spaces.
I am equally impressed by the great swathes of land the country has managed to set aside and protect – even when that means most of the wildlife there stays hidden!
Until next time!
Photos: 06February2023
Posted in India,Nature,TravelTags: environmental portrait,environmental portraits,India,Kerala,landscape,National Park,nature,people,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall,walk
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