.jpg) Portrait of a Gujar Elder
A semi-nomadic agricultural community of Gujar (Gurjar, Gujjar, or Gurjara) people make their home in the lush green meadows of Budgam District, high in the Pir Panjal mountains in India’s Western Himalayas. Even today, scattered pockets of ethnic communities manage to live much as they have done for hundreds of years.
I was on a small-group photo-tour in India’s union territory of Jammu and Kashmir. We were staying in traditional wooden houseboats – albeit with hot water, electricity, and wifi – in the middle of Dal Lake in Srinagar. After days of enjoying life on the water (see: Water, Dreams, and Woodwork) and exploring the local markets and mosques on foot (see: Street Markets, Mosques, and Crafts), we headed into nearby hill station of Doodhpathri, situated at 2,730 metres (8,960 ft) above sea level.
There, above the Shaliganga River which flows out of the Pir Panjal mountains in the Western Himalayas, we met families of Gujar shepherds.
Traditionally, the Gujar (Gurjar,Gujjar, or Gurjara) people were semi-nomadic herdsmen moving between mountain pastures and lowlands of India and Pakistan. The Gurjara kingdom (Gurjaradesha) thrived in present-day Rajasthan and northern Gujarat from around 570 CE. The empire fell into decline in 1018, but by then, the Gujar had migrated to different parts of the Indian Subcontinent. Today, they can be found in India, Pakistan, and Afghanistan.
Gujars are linguistically and religiously diverse. In Jammu and Kashmir, most – like the families we met – are Muslim. They welcomed us into their modest single-room houses, where whole families stay during the growing months. As seasonal nomads, they follow their animals to grazing pastures in winter.
We then visited a shopkeeper and his family in the nearby town of Budgam (‘Big Village’ in Kashmiri), the headquarters of this district.
This whole region is known for its scenic beauty and historic sites (see: Directorate of Tourism Kashmir), but this visit was focused on the people. Come meet them:
.jpg) Hut and Horses on the Hill
Doodhpathri (Valley of Milk) is a scenic alpine hill station in the Budgam district of Jammu and Kashmir. .jpg) College Girls Visiting
Doodhpathri attracts visitors from all over India and beyond. These young women were on an excursion from a neighbouring district.  Young Woman in a Hijab
We spent some time chatting and taking photos of each other. Gujar Hut
The Gujar people in Doodhpathri live in simple, low, one-room huts. A Gujar Kitchen
The only light inside the hut comes from the open door and the cooking fire. Gujar Mum
At first, Mum was a bit shy – but smiling behind her hijab. In the Smoke
As she looked after the fire, the light caught her elegant face. Man in a Topi
Like this Gujar patriarch, the shepherds in this region are predominantly Muslim. Forests and Meadows
This is a landscape of lush green grasses over vast meadows interspersed with tall stands of pine, fir, and deodar trees. Collecting Water
Doodhpathri means “Valley of Milk” which is a reference to the milky appearance of the fast-flowing streams that run through it. Smiling Woman
The Gujars are a proud and elegant people. Young Gujar Woman in Doodhpathri
Traditional dress is predominant, everywhere we look. Young Woman Gujar Girl Gujar Boys A Gujar Girl A Woman in Gojari Dress
The traditional clothing worn by the Gujar people is an expression of their identity. The hat, known as a laska, lachka, or lashki, is a handcrafted, brimless skullcap with a flat or rounded top and vibrant multi-colored thread embroidery. Mohammed Iqbal
The elder of our host family, like other men in Gujar Bakerwal communities, has grown his beard long and dyed it with henna. A Horse and Rider in Main Street
Nothing says ‘anachronistic’ like a man on his mobile riding his a horse through town. Shopkeeper in Budgam
In the district’s administrative capital, we meet a shopkeeper and his family. Women at Home
The shopkeeper’s wife welcomes us into the home and prepares us tea. Shopkeeper
Our host changes into his traditional turban, which is embellished with small metallic studs and colorful pom-poms. Young Woman
Outside, one of the daughters poses … The Boys
… and the neighbourhood lads gather. It was a brief – but wonderful – glimpse into a very different world.
 Until next time,
Keep Smiling!
Pictures: 12September2023
Posted in India,TravelTags: animals,blog,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,India,Kashmir,landscape,people,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Golden Hour over Bodrum Castle
I was treated to some glorious Aegean sunsets while I was in southwestern Türkiye – like this one over Bodrum Harbour and the medieval Castle of St. Peter. Bodrum, a port town – or city, depending who you talk to – on the Aegean in the southwest of Türkiye was not on my travel radar.
But, it is on other people’s!
Conde Nast calls it: the most glamorous hangout in the Mediterranean. According to AI, it is often: dubbed the “St. Tropez of Turkey.” And, it turns out that a friend-of-a-friend lives there.
I flew into Bodrum from Istanbul for a small-ship cruise around the Gulf of Gökova (see: the Gulf of Gökova). Before and after my sail, I spent a few days this delightful port town.
The town’s main attraction is the historic medieval castle, built from 1402 onwards by the Knights of St John. Known as the Castle of St. Peter or Petronium – or simply Bodrum Castle, it sits on a small rocky peninsula set between two sheltered bays and houses the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology. I enjoyed a few hours exploring this Crusader site (see: The Castle of St Peter).
The rest of my stay, I wandered the streets: the postside streets full of wonderful food and tourist shop, and the more suburban streets of old stone housing and artists’ ateliers.
Join me for a visit.
Bodrum Harbour
I arrived into Bodrum mid-afternoon, and the first thing I did was check out the port. The sailing gulet in the middle of the harbour is very like the one I would be cruising on. Bodrum Waterfront
This port used to survive on fishing and and sponge diving, but tourism has taken over – as you might guess from the beautiful waterfront developments. Bodrum Castle in the Harbour
I found myself a restaurant with a view … Follow the Food: Something Turkish
… and enjoyed a Mediterranean meal as the sun lowered over the water. Sunset on Bodrum Castle Masts in the Harbour
The next day, I wasn’t due to arrive on my boat until late afternoon. I went to see where she was moored: I wanted to know how far I’d be dragging my bags! Stone Carving
After a late brunch, I paid a visit to St Peter’s Castle (see: St Peter’s Castle). This heraldic design is one of the 249 separate coats of arms found on the castle walls. Shopping Street
The shopping street running parallel with the waterfront was a delightful place to explore. Nazar Boncuğu – Evil Eye Protection
Traditional glass amulets to protect against negative energy and the “evil eye” (nazar) come in all forms and sizes. Follow The Food: Turkish Delight
Food is everywhere! I could never quite get a handle on what is – and isn’t! – a Turkish delight. Follow The Food : More Turkish Delights
They seem to come in every shape and colour! Life In The Street
The shopping street was a great place to people-watch. These shopkeepers kept each other company as they waited for customers. Setting Sail out of Bodrum Harbour
Mid-afternoon, our gulet pulled out of its mooring and made its way through the harbour. Boats in Bodrum Harbour
We are not the only gulet on the move. Another Gulet
Gulets are a traditional style of two- or three-masted wooden sailing vessel built in the coastal towns around the gulf. Today, they are popular for tourist charters and use diesel power. On many, the masts are purely for show and are not properly rigged for sailing. We never tested ours! Night Lights on Bodrum Harbour
We found an anchorage far enough away from town that the lights were visible but the shore-front discos were just a faint thud. Back into Bodrum Harbour
A week later, under the watchful eye of that crusader castle, we were back in Bodrum Harbour. Dalgiç – The Diver
Our gulet is back in a mooring in Bodrum Harbour, so I went in search of solid ground. I found this work in bronze by Turkish sculptor Yavuz Tanyeli close to our vessel. Afternoon over Bodrum
I took myself on an afternoon walk, and found the town – like much of the Mediterranean – populated with white buildings. “Dragut” Turgut Reis (1485 – 1565)
A morning walk led me past an artists’ studio where a variety of sculpted heads were on display. I recognised Shakespeare, but the Turkish hero Turgut Reis – known as Dragut – was foreign to me. The name on his pedestal allowed me to look him up: he was born in 1485 near Bodrum. He became an Ottoman corsair, a naval commander, a governor, and a noble. Under his command, the Ottoman Empire’s maritime power was extended across North Africa. Lines and Curves and a Metal Gate
Once I’m up the hill and away from the port, the narrow cobbled streets are tidy and graceful – and the homes are behind gated fences. Dappled Light in the Laneways
Light filters through the trees, and people go about their daily activities. Yeni Bodrum Otogarı – New Bodrum Bus Terminal
After lunch, my bags and I are at the Bodrum bus terminal, ready for an eight hour bus trip east. As sad as I was to leave Bodrum behind, the bus was clean and comfortable – and I was on the way to another adventure.
 Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 30September2022, 01October2022, and 07-08October2022.
Posted in Travel,TürkiyeTags: architecture,arts and crafts,Bodrum,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,landscape,Photo Blog,sculpture,travel,Travel Blog,Turkey,Türkiye,Ursula Wall
The Long Curve
Steep cliffs, jagged rocks, and wild waters off the South Pacific Ocean, all make for the beautiful – albeit dangerous – coastline that the Australian town of Kiama, NSW is known for. (2020-10-28 1637 iPhone6) Kiama, a little Australian town just 120 km (75 mi) south of Sydney, is bounded by a dramatic coastline along the Tasman Sea on one side, and rich, green pastures dotted with remnants of rainforest on the other. With heritage-listed buildings, stunning natural scenery, surf beaches, and plenty of boutiques and coffee shops, it is a popular spot for Sydney day-trippers and weekenders.
For thousands of years, the Wodi Wodi people – part of the Dharawal language group – used these lands. The town’s name comes from the Dharawal word kiarama-a, which has been translated as “where the sea makes a noise”. This refers to the now-famous Kiama Blowhole, where – depending on sea conditions – a fissure in the late Permian latite allows vigorous, noisy and potentially dangerous sprays of water up to 25 metres (82 ft) into the air.
On my first-ever visit to the blowhole, I expended a full roll of film trying to catch the plume at its height. My reaction-times failed me.
The seas here need to be taken seriously: in 1992, seven people – members of two families – were drowned after being swept off the rocks. In spite of an increase in warning signs and safety rails, there have been a number of other deaths over the years since, most commonly of rock fishermen who get swept away.
l live at the extreme other end of what is called the NSW South Coast (see: Coastal Walks). I sometimes stop over in Kiama on my long drive to or from Sydney. These particular photos are from two separate trips in 2020: one at the beginning of winter in June, and the other during a pleasantly mild October spring.
On the first occasion, a companion and I enjoyed the short but pleasant Minnamurra Falls Walk (see: AllTrails). On the second, I contended myself with coastal meanderings. Although I had my Canon cameras with me on the first trip, most of the pictures are taken on my old iPhone6.
Enjoy some coastal time with me.
Waves on the Waterfront
Its a short walk from our accommodation in the small CBD to Black Beach Cove. Across the waters, we have a view of the thin isthmus leading to Blowhole Point. (2020-06-26 1005 iPhone6) Waves on Black Beach Cove
The rocks on the cove are naturally occurring black basalt. (2020-06-26 1007 iPhone6) Black Beach Continental Ocean Pool
This 50-metre ocean pool is built into the naturally occurring rock shelf around Black Beach Cove. (2020-06-26 1008 iPhone6) Kiama Post and Telegraph Office – Built 1878-1880)
Kiama has a number of NSW heritage-listed buildings – including the rather lovely post office. (2020-06-26 1021 iPhone6) The Minnamurra River
Twenty minutes inland, we enter the Minnamurra Rainforest Centre (see: Budderoo National Park) for a walk through subtropical rainforest. (2020-06-26 1217 Canon 5DII) Bird’s Nest Fern – Asplenium Australasicum
We are in a predominantly humid subtropical climate zone – and the surrounding vegetation reflects that. (2020-06-26 1223 Canon 6D) Old Tree with a Large Hollow Trunk
This pocket of land is a rare and priceless remnant of the original rainforest. (2020-06-26 1224 Canon 5DII) Branches against the Sky
Elkhorn ferns (Platycerium bifurcatum) and other epiphytic ferns attach themselves to the sprawling, heavy branches of their host trees. (2020-06-26 1229 Canon 6D) Rocky Creek Bed
Back down at ground level, things are shady, and the rocks in the river are coloured with lichens and moss. (2020-06-26 1230 Canon 5DII) Giant Pepper Vine – Piper Hederaceum
(2020-06-26 1237 Canon 6D) Minnamurra Falls
“It’s not very big!” my companion muttered. And it is true: this accessible upper portion of the falls has a 25-metre (82-foot) drop. (2020-06-26 1302 Canon 5DII) Splash!
While the falls are small, I think they are very pretty. (2020-06-26 1307 Canon 6D) A Curtain of Water
And, for me, it is more about the fresh air and bird sounds, the scent of the surrounding nature, and the pleasant walk. (2020-06-26 1307 Canon 6D) An Australian Magpie – Gymnorhina Tibicen
Back on the waterfront, a magpie watches us eat a late lunch – hoping for a stray chip or piece of fish. (2020-06-26 1450 Canon 6D) Waves and Last Light on Storm Bay
The late afternoon winter sun gives a light glow to the Norfolk Island pines on Blowhole Point. (2020-06-26 1557 Canon 5DII) Surf Beach
A few brave souls are still in the water – dwarfed by the expanse. (2020-06-26 1608 Canon 5DII) Looking Down from Pheasant Point
The next morning, the light is completely different, as I set off walking in search of views and breakfast. (2020-06-27 0840 iPhone6) Splash on the Basalt
I love how the edges of the Ocean Pool blend in with the naturally occurring black basalt layers. (2020-06-27 0905 iPhone6) A Dynamic and Dramatic Shore
(2020-06-27 0907 iPhone6) Norfolk Island Pines
Four months later, I landed in Sydney late one afternoon off a flight from Uluru (see: Weekly Wanders Uluru). A stop back in Kiama was the perfect distance from the airport to make the drive home manageable. (2020-10-28 0755 iPhone6) Making Waves
This stainless steel statue, created by visual artist Bert Flugelman (1923 – 2013) in 1997, was installed here on Storm Bay in 2016. (2020-10-28 0809 iPhone6) Kiama Farmers Market
In the afternoon, I headed out for another walk, and found the local markets in full swing above Surf Beach. (2020-10-28 1612 iPhone6) The Sandy Shore of Surf Beach
(2020-10-28 1632 iPhone6) On the Path
My walk back to the CBD takes me past Storm Bay, where I have a good view of the historical Kiama Lighthouse. (2020-10-28 1636 iPhone6) Curving Path
Looking along the path as I walk back to my rooms, the light lowers over the market. (2020-10-28 1651 iPhone6)  It is a beautiful spot – and I will return for another stay one day …
Happy Rambles!
Pictures: 26-27June2020 and 28October2020
Crafting Moroccan Zellige Tilework
Morocco is known for its intricate, hand-crafted pottery and ceramics. Sometimes hand-painted and sometimes tessellated into intricate mosaics, colourful ceramics are fundamental to Moroccan architecture and daily life. I love pottery.
Not too far from my home, there is a Moroccan restaurant and emporium where all manner of colourful earthenware is available. While I have occasionally stopped for lunch, I have managed to resist buying house numbers, fountains, kitchenwares, or floor tiles.
But being in an actual traditional family-run pottery store in Fes, known as Morocco’s cultural capital, was a whole different story. I could have taken it all home!
One of the things I love about small-group travel is the access it gives you to local crafts and cottage industries. My group had driven into Fes the day before from the delightful blue city of Chefchaouen (see: Road Stops, Home Visits, and Fabulous Food). I had checked our trip itinerary, and – in addition to the usual notable mosques and palaces – our day in the historic UNESCO-listed, northern-inland Moroccan city of Fes included visits to textile weavers, a leather-works (Watch this space!), and a pottery workshop.
I was particularly excited about the pottery workshop for two reasons: firstly, I love watching and photographing artisans at work; and secondly, I had my heart set on a genuine tajine (shallow earthen pot): that iconic glazed pottery cooking utensil with a conical lid that Morocco is known for.
Art Naji was established inside the medina (old city) by the Fakhari brothers in 1930. Their operations (and those of other potters) were moved to Ain Nokbi, a district just outside the medina in 2013 to provide them with more space and to reduce the impact of the dust and heat of the kilns on the residents of the inner city.
Join me on a visit:
Outside Art Naji
Now that the workshop is outside the medina, there is space! Men outside Art Naji
Space to display some of the bigger pottery pieces. Intricate geometric and arabesque patterns are heavily influenced by Islamic and Berber art. Guide to the Workshop
Inside the building, we meet our guide, who will explain the work-flow to us. Bowl of Fridge Magnets Working on an Inlay
Zellige is a centuries-old art form – originating in 10th-century Morocco and southern Spain – using natural clay tiles that are molded, chiseled, and glazed by hand, and then inlaid into complex patterns. Zellige Tilework
The artisan uses a specialized hammer to create the intricate geometric shapes that zellige tiles are known for. The word zellige (zellij or zillij) comes from an Arabic word meaning “little polished stone” or “to slide”. Wet Clay Potter at a Wheel
Every step of the production process is as it once was … Potter at Work
.. starting with shaping the wet clay on a hand-turned wheel. Mini –Tajines in the Making Unglazed Pottery
Kiln-dried pottery waits to be painted, glazed, and re-fired. Jigsaw Puzzle
An authentic zellige tiled piece is expensive: understandable when you see the thought and work that goes into it. Painting a Bowl
Like everything else, painting the traditional colourful patterns is done by hand. Concentration
The detailed work takes focus and concentration. Work at Art Naji
Every nook and cranny is filled with pottery at various stages of completion. Craftsman Grinding and Polishing Beautiful Blues
I seem to have wandered full circle – but I can’t help but admire this beautiful piece. Vase
In a separate room, some stunning old pieces are on display. Arabic calligraphy is a common decorative theme. Fine Wares
The showroom features historic Moroccan ceramics – some of them very old – featuring traditional designs, variants of which are still in use. Blues
Fes is known for its blue-and-white patterns. Tagine On-Order
One corridor was full of dish-sets waiting for completion and shipping. I decided on one like this … The Crate
… and six months later it arrived! The Plates
It was so well wrapped it took me an hour to unbox it! As each piece is handcrafted, it is – as they say: “Perfectly imperfect.” I smile and remember Fes every time I use it.
Photos: 18October2024
Posted in Morocco,TravelTags: architecture,arts and crafts,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,Fes,Fez,Morocco,Photo Blog,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Wooden Buildings in Telegraph Cove
The historic buildings in Telegraph Cove, on the eastern coast of Northern Vancouver Island, British Columbia (BC), Canada, are a perfect example of the importance in this part of the world of wood – for beauty, economic livelihood, and building; and water – for growth, sustenance, and transportation. I lived in Canada’s British Columbia (BC) for several years during my early childhood and again in my young adulthood. Even though I have lived many years in many other places, it still feels like “home”.
The end of the Covid19 lock-down years marked the end of a six-year absence.
For the first time in many years, I was going back on my own. This – amongst other things – meant breaking a long stay into manageable driving-bits.
British Columbia is not the easiest place to get around. Like the rest of the Pacific Northwest (PNW), it is renowned for its stunning, rugged coastline, lush temperate rainforests, and volcanic mountain ranges. This means great distance between places, lots of long and lonely winding roads, and expensive and time-consuming ferries to reach those many places that roads can’t get to on their own.
I carefully mapped out a large circuit which would take in requisite family visits with my scattered relatives, and would allow me to take care of business my husband left behind when he died. I also wanted to explore some “bucket list” places and catch up with old friends.
The plan was roughly 3000 km (about 1865 mi) with six ferry trips. The reality, with various opportunistic detours, ended up being considerably more. I have posted already about many of the places I visited (see: Wanders Canada 2022), but as always happens, I have photos remaining that didn’t quite make their own story. When I looked at these leftovers, I couldn’t help but think of two things that define British Columbia: wood and water.
And, the long roads that connect them …
Telegraph Cove
This was my first-ever foray to the northern end of Vancouver Island. I was headed to the ferry terminal at Port Hardy, and made the short detour off the main highway to visit one of Canada’s most picturesque villages. Named for a coastal telegraph station built over 100 years ago, Telegraph Cove grew into a logging and fishing hub before being virtually abandoned. Today, it is a popular summer eco-tourism destination and a gateway to Johnstone Strait, a mecca for whale watching, grizzly bear tours, and/or marine park exploration. Logging Operations
Johnstone Strait is still a logging hub. As I drive out of Telegraph Cove, I stop to look down over a dryland log-sort facility. Floating Log Boom Scotch Broom – Cytisus Scoparius Port Hardy Mooring
Water is central to transportation here: whether it is via small sailboats like this one, seaplanes, or the BC Ferry that makes the approximately 15-hour voyage up and down the inside passage to and from Prince Rupert. That long ferry trip was what I was waiting for (see: Up Canada’s Inside Passage). Street Mural – Quesnel
Just over two weeks later, I’m back on the mainland (See: In the North Country) and driving south – again through places whose names I know, but where I’ve never actually been. Fire Damage
A forest fire has preceded me here along the Cariboo Highway (Highway 97). Historic Anglican Church – 108 Heritage Museum at 108 Mile Ranch
The Cariboo Highway is dotted with places with rather unimaginative – but explanatory – names. Names like 70 Mile House, 100 Mile House, 141 Mile House, etc. The names are distance markers from Lillooet further south. Lillooet is the starting point of the historic Cariboo Wagon Road to Barkerville, the hub of the Cariboo Gold Rush. The discovery of gold in 1858 led to an influx of people – and the development of infrastructure to support the grueling 300-mile journey north. The 108 Heritage Museum has been preserved to mark this history – with most of the buildings there being original to the site. Little Shuswap Lake from Lee Creek Bridge
I detoured east to meet a friend in Revelstoke; this took me through southern Interior region of BC, an area I remember from childhood. Revelstoke Waterworks
Revelstoke, in the mountains of southern BC, was originally a railway town. It now relies more on forestry and tourism. Although the end of June was near, it was hardly warm enough to warrant the water park – and I was getting quite wet enough from the rain! Time for a Selfie
In spite of the rain, I wanted to explore. I stopped outside the Firefighters Museum to admire the historical firefighting equipment and artifacts inside. View over the Rivers
Revelstoke is near the headwaters of the Columbia River where the glacial Illecillewaet River runs into it. My walk takes me along the Greenbelt Pathway, which runs through the protected corridors on the banks of the rivers. Big Eddy Bridge
The rains come and go and the sky changes every minute. Mountains are all around. In the distance, a historic metal multi-span truss bridge crosses the Columbia River. Post Piles on the Hill
You are never far from signs of the lumber industry! The Greenbelt Trail takes me past the Downie Timber yard. Clustered Bellflower – Campanula Glomerata
Rainwater collects in the wildflowers at my feet. Bladder Campion – Silene Vulgaris Highway Driving
British Columbia has no shortage of mountains. I continued southwest through the passes. Pacific Dogwood
I had a few days in Mission, where the dogwood trees were in bloom – a sure sign summer is coming. Room With A View
I paid a visit to a friend who was living overlooking Whonnock Lake. Whonnock Lake Raindrops
This was our summer swimming place as teenagers. No one was swimming on this day … Canada Geese on the Lake
… except the geese. The Spirit of Haida Gwaii
Water and wood are central to all the British Columbia Coastal First Nation communities. The fabulous Jade Canoe in Vancouver Airport by renowned artist Bill Reid is representative of that, and brought me memories of the wonderful time I had spent on the magical northern islands of Haida Gwaii (see: Weekly Wanders Haida Gwaii). Almost Abstract: Dreams of Flight  Before I knew it, my time was over and I was back in the air and on my way to another adventure.
Wishing you Happy Roads!
Pictures: 03-04June2022 and 20-30June2022
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