Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls in long exposure, Pothupara, Kerala India.

The Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls
Just 18 km (11 mi) from the hill station of Munnar in Kerala, a beautiful waterfall cascades into the Pani River near Pothupara. (Long Exposure, iPhone12Pro)

Given that India, with ~ 1.476 billion people – is the most populous country in the world, it always surprises me how much space there is in the country – and how much unspoiled beauty can be found.

I was staying in Kerala – widely known as “God’s Own Country” – near the hill station of Munnar. I had a driver and had lined up various day trips (eg: High Tea in Kerala and Tamil Nadu) to explore the nearby area. 

On one particular day, part of the trip I was looking at required a local jeep, which my driver booked for us. We visited two nearby – but distinctively different – waterfalls on the Muthirapuzha (Muthirappuzhayar) River. Place-naming in these regions can be vague, and I was told the first cascade was Pothupara Falls – also known as Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls. The second – more developed and with an entry fee – is commonly known ar Ripple Waterfalls, or Sreenarayanapuram Falls.

We also visited two separate dams: the Mattupetty Dam on the Muthirapuzha River, and the Ponmudi Dam on the Panniyar River. Both are concrete gravity dams used for electricity generation, and their surrounds have been developed as recreational areas.

The hills around here are tea producers, so, in addition to the scenic stops, we made a tour of the Madupatty (Mattupetty) Tea Factory.

Come for a day out in the hills of Kerala’s Western Ghats:

Landscape: tea plantations, Munnar, Kerala India.

In the Tea Hills
Munnar Hill Station is known for its tea plantations; this was my view over breakfast every morning.

View over the hills surrounding the Mattupetty Reservoir, Kerala India.

Mattupetty Reservoir
It was only a half hour drive from my accommodation to the reservoir formed by Mattupetty Dam.

Rainbow in the spray in rusty pylons, Mattupetty Dam, Kerala India.

Rainbow in the Dam
The reservoir attracts wildlife like elephants – none of which we saw. Rainbows formed in the spray of the overflow in the 70+ year-old dam.

Wild iris behind the fence on Mattupetty Dam, Kerala India.

Wild Iris in the Fencing
Fencing protects the dam crossing against accidents; wild plants add a touch of whimsy.

Looking down into the Mattupetty Tea Factory floor, Kerala India.

Factory Floor
The Mattupetty Tea Factory is only a few minutes away. I had booked myself into a tour.

Environmental portrait: a young South Indian man explaining tea, the Mattupetty Tea Factory, Kerala India.

Our Guide
A personable young man lead our group and explained the cultivation and processing of tea.

Display boxes with tea leaves, dust and packaging, the Mattupetty Tea Factory, Kerala India.

The Stages of Tea
Ripple Tea is a local brand: this display illustrates some of the forms tea is found in.

Mattupetty Tea Factory, Kerala India.

Mattupetty Tea Factory
As we leave the area, I get a view back over the factory where it sits: perched on a hill and surrounded by tea.

Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Pothupara Falls
Also known as Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls, these lovely falls are fed by several streams in the Mutirapuzha River Basin.

Grasses and rock at the foot of Pothupara Falls, Kerala India.

Grasses on the River
The Chunayanmakkal (Pothupara) Waterfalls are promoted as being ‘natural, with minimal commercialisation.’ This translates as: No visitor infrastructure.

Chunayanmakkal Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Meandering Waters
As fresh and inviting as the water looks, swimming here is discouraged because of very slippery rocks all year and very heavy waters during the monsoon season.

Top of Ripple Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Ripple Waterfalls
We crossed the the Muthirapuzha River to visit the much more developed Ripple Waterfalls – known locally as Sreenarayanapuram Falls.

Lily pond in the rock, Ripple Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Lily Pond
Connecting ponds have been built into the rock at the top of the falls.

Purple water lily, Ripple Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Water Lily – Nymphaea

Two people on a flying fox, Ripple Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Flying Fox
Apparently this is India’s longest and highest river-crossing zipline. I opted for the stairs.

Water tumbling over boulders, Ripple Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Rocks at the Top
It’s is a ruggedly beautiful area.

Hard rock face, Ripple Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

The Main Falls
The exposed rock here at the falls is primarily a coarse-grained, quartz-feldspar, metamorphic-rock typical of the ancient Precambrian crust found throughout the Western Ghats.

Rocky riverbed section, Ripple Waterfalls, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Rocky Riverbed
There are flat sections between the tiers of these falls.

Ponmudi Hanging Bridge from a jeep window, Pothupara, Kerala India.

View from the Jeep: Ponmudi Thookkupalam
A short distance south, we dove over the historic Ponmudi Hanging Bridge, near the Ponmudi Dam.

The jagged ravine under the hanging bridge, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Almost Abstract: Ravine under the Hanging Bridge

A young couple, the hanging bridge, Pothupara, Kerala India.

An Intimate Moment
It’s a narrow bridge – single vehicles and pedestrians only.

A tuk tuk on Ponmudi Dam, Pothupara, Kerala India.

On Ponmudi Dam
Going the other direction, we drive over the dam itself.

Tented shops, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Roadside Stop
We then drive up the hillside …

Red tropical hibiscus in the hills, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Red Tropical Hibiscus – Hibiscus × Rosa-Sinensis
… where beautiful vegetation …

View to the Western Ghats, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Over the Hills
… extends far into the Western Ghats.

Portrait of a local man, Pothupara, Kerala India.

Portrait of a Local Man
I can’t remember exactly where we were – but this is one of the reasons I love India: the locals are usually ready to be photographed!

It was a full day and wonderful day – and we still made it back for dinner!

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 08February2023

Boulders and rocks in crystal clear turquoise waters, Göynük Canyon, Türkiye.

Really??? THAT is my Trail ??
I had clearly bitten off more than I could chew: the Göynük Canyon in the foothills of Türkiye’s Taurus Mountains is stunningly beautiful, but not exactly easy to walk through!

I knew it might be tough – just not how tough!

I had booked myself a supported walk on the eastern section of the Lycian Way on the southern coastline of Türkiye. The full walk is 540 kilometers (335 miles), typically completed in 25 to 30 walking days – well beyond my ambitions or stamina. I decided on the eastern section because I had a group tour planned around Türkiye later in my proposed stay, and some of the stops on that itinerary overlapped with the Western Lycian Way.

Then COVID-19 hit. Travel stopped. I deferred my deposit. By the time I prepared to actually undertake the walk, I was two years older.

I arrived into Antalya on the bus from Bodrum (see: Bodrum: Türkiye’s Charming Southwestern Port) the evening before my trek, and was then driven the 45 minutes to my guest house in Göynük. After too much food and too little sleep, I was transported to and deposited at the entry of Göynük Gorge the next morning.

Estimates of the difficulty of this track vary. Some say “medium to hard”; others just say “hard” – and include words like “challenging” and “rugged”. In any event, I was panicked enough by the descriptions of the first day that I opted to send my cameras with the rest of my luggage rather than carry them. It was absolutely the right decision! I would have never finished if I had been carrying the extra weight.

My trip notes said: “You walk uphill all day …” and that felt about right. They also predicted: 17km (10.6mi) / 6hrs / +1200m / -510m. By contrast, my walker tracked: 22.31 km / 8:30 hrs / +1692 m / -1014 m. I emptied two external battery packs; thank heavens I had them, as the track was not always well-marked or obvious, and without the gps on my phone, I would have never found my way. I also drank copious amounts of water, and was grateful to find a kiosk where I bought an extra bottle towards the end of the day – which I also finished.

I’ve done the hard work; you can tag along with ease:

Close-up: ripe pomegranate, Natural Pension, Göynük, Türkiye.

Pomegranate – Punica Granatum
Nothing says “Mediterranean” to me like a tree full of fresh pomegranates! My guesthouse was set into beautiful gardens.

Breakfast cold-cuts, Natural Pension, Göynük, Türkiye.

Follow The Food : A Turkish Breakfast for One!
Add a pot of coffee – and I’m happy.

Entry to the Göynük Canyon, Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

Entry to the Göynük Canyon
This is the official start of the Likya Yolu – the Lycian Way. I don’t know whether I am more excited or nervous.

Statue of a wild Turkish goat at the entry to the Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

A Wild Turkish Goat
Although bezoar ibex (Capra aegagrus aegagrus) are well distributed in this region, the statues at the park entry are the only ones I saw. Mind you, I spent a lot of time watching my feet on the incredibly rocky ground!

Taurus Mountains reflecting in calm water, Göynük Canyon, Türkiye.

Lake at the Bottom
I was worried about stopping too long here, but I couldn’t help admiring the Taurus Mountains as they reflected in the still waters.

Small pagoda, Göynük Canyon, Türkiye.

Picnic Pagoda
Contained within the Beydağları Coastal National Park, the Göynük Canyon is a popular recreational area.

Dark turquoise water, Göynük Canyon, Türkiye.

Reflections in the Turquoise
Because the water here comes down from the high surrounding mountains, it is incredibly clear – and cold year round.

Cream pincushions in bloom, Göynük Canyon, Türkiye.

Cream Pincushions – Scabiosa Ochroleuca
This pretty little member of the honeysuckle family is widely distributed in Türkiye.

Waters in Göynük Canyon, Türkiye.

Göynük Canyon
Clearly I had been distracted by the views – I missed my turn-off and had to backtrack.

A rocky trail, Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

It’s a Rough Trail to Follow!
A narrow and exceptionally rocky trail zig-zags up through the pines.

Red bark and green leaves of a strawberry arbutus, Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

Greek Strawberry Tree – Arbutus Andrachne – Ağacı

View of the mountains, Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

Views of the Mountains
High above Göynük Canyon, I’m surrounded by Mediterranean pine and glimpses of mountaintops.

A rocky trail, Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

Sing in Praise of Good Boots!
I’m thankful for the ankle support in my boots: the path continues rocky and steep. A twisted ankle while walking alone would not be ideal!

View of the mountains, Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

In the Mountain Peaks

Mediterranean pine on a rocky ridge, Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

Trees and Rocks on the Ridge
It is ruggedly beautiful. I take a lot of pictures: partially because the constant uphill climb is killing me! I’m three hours in – and well behind schedule already.

Informal rocky cairns, Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

Rocky Cairns
Occasionally, small cairns mark the path to follow. I actually look out for them, because other markings are few and far between.

Mediterranean pine trunks on a rocky ridge, Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

Mediterranean Pine – Pinus Brutia
Also known as, Calabrian pine or Turkish pine, these trees grow tall and straight on the ridge lines – and twisted and gnarled on the windy edges of the forest. The pine needles are deep and soft underfoot.

Small lilac lily in pine needles, Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

Colchicum Variegatum
Small members of the lily family decorate the forest floor.

Possibly wild buckwheat flowers in pine needles, Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

Wild Buckwheat? Asteraceae?

Cyclamen in the pine needles around a boulder, Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

Cyclamen Maritimum around a Boulder
Little flowers hide everywhere – a welcome distraction from my fatigue.

 Small creek over white stones, Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

Rocky Creek
Finally I reach the creek I should have found by lunch time.

Makeshift ladder over boulders, Lycian Way East, Göynük, Türkiye.

You are Kidding???
This section is even more overwhelming than I had anticipated. I couldn’t quite believe that a makeshift ladder was my only egress. Believe me: I looked for alternatives!

Boulders and rocks in crystal clear turquoise waters, Göynük Canyon, Türkiye.

A Rocky Canyon
The canyon is distinguished by: rugged riverbeds, large smooth boulders, and steep canyon walls requiring occasional scrambling and improvised crossings. It’s a good thing I didn’t read that before I left home!

View of the mountains, Lycian Way East, Göynük Yaylası, Türkiye.

A Taurus Mountaintop
Somehow, I made it through. I don’t remember how, but some tears and a lot of swearing were involved. Eight hours into my day, I was back in the mountaintops.

Mediterranean pine on a rocky hill, Lycian Way East, Göynük Yaylası, Türkiye.

More Pine and Rocks

Small blue outhouse, Lycian Way East, Göynük Yaylası, Türkiye.

“Panoramic WC”
Eventually, my path widens out into an actual track, and there are signs of civilization – including this charming loo with a view.

I never did quite reach my end point.

After finding a dirt road – about a kilometre from where I was meant to meet my ride – an unmarked car with an undindistingued driver pulled up beside me and offered me a lift. At least I think he did: he spoke almost no English, and I speak no Turkish. I politely declined, as I had no idea who he was. He then named the hotel I was aiming for. But, I was in the middle of nowhere – where else would I be going? Again, I declined, as this wasn’t the correct meeting spot. He then mentioned “Mr Deniz”, who was my local contact, and I relented and got in.

Text: Happy Walking!I later learned that every second man in this region is named Deniz! Fortunately, this actually was the driver for my hotel. We finally managed to chat a little in in German – which we both spoke badly. I arrived at my hotel late, drenched in sweat, and exhausted – but alive!

Fortunately, I had organised an extra rest day for myself – so hopefully – after that and a good sleep – I’d be ready for the next leg of this adventure. 

Happy Walking!

Pictures: 09October2022

A metal lantern in front of an ornate wooden building, Fes el Bali, Fes, Morocco.

A Lantern in the Labyrinth
The narrow, winding laneways of the old medinas in Fes, Morocco, are distinguished by ornate multi-storied wooden buildings, richly decorated with carved cedar corbels and geometric lattice screens, and adorned with intricately carved stucco arabesques and calligraphy.

Morocco’s northern inland city of Fes (Fez, Fès) is home to not one, but two medinas – old walled cities. Distinguished by their narrow, winding streets and their rich history, these old quarters – Fes el-Bali and Fes Jdid – are jointly UNESCO-listed as the Medina of Fez and are considered: “one of the most extensive and best conserved historic towns of the Arab-Muslim world.”

This is one of the world’s largest and oldest urban pedestrian zones (car-free areas) and I’d challenge you to find your way through the maze without getting lost. Fortunately, I was travelling with a small group (see: Intrepid Morocco in Depth) and we had a local guide who grew up in Fes el-Bali, playing in the tangle of narrow laneways around his home.

We started our day in the newer Fes Jdid (New Fez), established in 1276. We spent time admiring the magnificent gates of the Royal Palace of Fez (Dar al-Makhzen). The palace was originally built by the Marinid sultan Abu Yusuf Ya’qub in 1276, but much of what we see today dates to somewhere between the 17th and 20th centuries.

We then crossed outside the old city by bus to the locality of Ain Nokbi, where the city’s potters were relocated in 2013. There, we had views over the rambling old Fes el-Bali, and a chance to admire (and purchase) some wonderful traditional pottery (see: Traditional Moroccan Pottery and Ceramics).

After that, we headed into Fes el Bali, the Old Town, which was founded between 789 and 808 AD. There, we explored on foot – albeit with a careful eye out for our guide, so as not to get lost.

So much to see, so little time! Join me for a foray into an ancient city.

Portrait of a man with a map of the Fes medina, Morocco.

Man and a Map of the Medina
Our local guide gives us an overview of the old city of Fes.

Main gates of the Dar al-Makhzen, Fes Morocco.

Main Gates of the Dar al-Makhzen
The original foundation of the Fes Royal Palace dates back to 1276. These magnificent front gates, however, were built between 1969 and 1971. The seven monumental wooden doors are decorated with brass and framed by intricate zellige tilework and carved cedarwood canopy lintels.

Closeup: ornate brass door handles, the Dar al-Makhzen, Fes Morocco.

I 💙 These Brass Door Handles!

Blue and yellow zellige tilework, the Dar al-Makhzen, Fes Morocco.

Zellige Tilework
Everything is ornately decorated. Traditional zellige tilework is made from handcrafted terracotta tiles, baked and mineral-glazed, then tessellated into intricate mosaics.

An avenue behind Fes Palace, Morocco.

Behind the Fes Palace
Away from the palace, a wide arterial street winds through one of the old quarters.

White storks on the medina ramparts, Fes, Morocco.

Storks on the Ramparts
White storks (Ciconia ciconia) are big birds that range across Europe, Africa, and Asia. Here in Fes, they build their large stick nests on the fortifications in the city wall.

View over Fès el-Bali from Ain Nokbi, Morocco.

Fès el-Bali
From a hill in Ain Nokbi, we have an extensive view over the terracotta rooftops and stone walls in the oldest walled medina in Fes: the Fes el-Bali.

Arched window with a metal grill, Ain Nokbi, Fes, Morocco.

A Window in the Wall
The remains of old fortifications are everywhere.

A rusty metal fence, with a view over over Fès el-Bali, Ain Nokbi, Morocco.

Metal Fence

Man talking, Fès el-Bali, Fes Morocco.

Guide in the Medina
Inside the Fès el-Bali, our guide talks about his childhood growing up in these narrow lanes where everyone knew each other.

People in a narrow laneway, Fès el-Bali, Fes Morocco.

Breath In!
Some of the walkways are impossibly narrow; many are dead ends.

People in a narrow laneway, Fès el-Bali, Fes Morocco.

In the Historic Medina de Fez
Buildings rise up multiple stories either side of us.

Man seated in a narrow laneway, Fès el-Bali, Fes Morocco.

Man in a Corridor
This is still home for a lot of people. In fact, UNESCO cites the ever-increasing population in an already dangerously overpopulated area – and the urban over-development which is a consequence of that – as one of the principal risks to the site.

Shop fronts, Fès el-Bali, Fes Morocco.

Under a Lattice Roof
After a while, we come out into a wider avenue of shops.

R

R’cif Mosque
Back in the open, we have a view of the R’cif Mosque. Built between 1792 and 1822 on a cliffside along the shore of the Bou Khrareb River (Oued Bou Khrareb), its minaret stands tall against the sky. The river is mostly underground now, but is followed by a major road which allows access for public transportation and emergency vehicles into the old city.

Hanging bananas and tables of fruit and vegetables in a crowded market, Fès el-Bali, Fes Morocco.

In the Fresh Foods
Back under more lattice roofing, the crowded market aisle is lined with fresh and colourful produce.

Environmental portrait: a butcher on his phone, Fès el-Bali, Fes Morocco.

Waiting for Customers
The crowded market has as many locals as tourists, but the butcher has no customers.

A shop front with skeins of colourful wool, Fès el-Bali, Fes Morocco.

Wool, Textiles, and Dye Pots
We move from fresh goods to fabrics. Many of the shopfronts in the medina are also workshops where artisans dye and prepare wool.

A shopping laneway with skeins of colourful wool, Fès el-Bali, Fes Morocco.

Souk Sebbaghine – Dyers’ Market
The colourful laneways are cobbled underfoot, and the lattice roofing allows some light and air.

Colourful skeins hanging, Fès el-Bali, Fes Morocco.

Dyed Yarns
Vivid yarns hang from the walls and overhead. The skeins include wool, cotton, and sabra (cactus silk).

Colourful skeins hanging, Fès el-Bali, Fes Morocco.

Dyes – Natural and Otherwise
Similarly, the dyes include traditional pigments like indigo for blue, henna for brown and orange, and turmeric or saffron for yellow, as well as more recent (and often cheaper) chemical dyes for virant reds, greens, and purples.

The front of an ornate wooden building, Fes el Bali, Fes, Morocco.

Medersa es-Seffarin – The Metalworkers’ Madrasa
We round a corner out of the textiles and into the metalworks neighbourhood. The façade of the madrasa, or religious school, here is beautiful: decorated with intricately carved stucco and cedarwood.

Man on a scaffold with a paint roller, Fès el-Bali, Fes Morocco.

Painter
Meanwhile, everyday like goes on. Buildings need repairs …

Man in blue at a yellow post box, Fès el-Bali, Fes Morocco.

Mailman
… and mail gets delivered.

We had barely scratched the surface of this wonderful warren – but we still a few hours left!

More on that some other time.

Text: Keep smilingIn the meantime, 

Keep Smiling!

Photos: 18October2024

 

A Burrawang cycad in front of a forest of spotted gums, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia

Nature’s Artworks : An Evergreen Cycad against a Eucalyptus Forest
The sights and scents of the Australian ‘bush’ are unique. The forests along the southeastern coast are home to a range of endemic plants. Here, the delicate-looking rich green fronds of a Burrawang (Macrozamia communis) – a locally-specific cycad – contrast against the tall, muted, trunks of the eastern Australian spotted gums (Corymbia maculata).

It is so easy to take one’s own backyard for granted!

After years of good intention but little action, I finally joined a local community walking group this year – the Bega Valley Bushwalkers -and managed to fit in some coastal walks in my region before setting off again on travel further afield.

One of these, back in early autumn, was in Mimosa Rocks National Park, just an hour north of me. While it is not the first time I’ve walked in this park (see: Coastal Walks, Far South Coast), this particular walk covered some sections that were completely new to me.

We started at the campground at Gillards Beach and hiked north, hugging the coast between Middle Beach and Middle Lagoon to the heritage-listed coastal property of Penders on Bithry Inlet, where we lunched. The return was via a different track through the woods back to Middle Lagoon, and then retracing our steps back to our cars.

This is considered a moderate hike by AllTrails, who follow the shorter straight out-and-back route. Thanks to the beach-walking and a few short uphills, I was exhausted when I finished. But the views and the beautiful coastal forests made it well worth it!

Join me among the eucalyptus:

Red-brown cliff face, golden sand and turquoise waters, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia

Overlooking Gillard’s Beach
It’s a short walk from the carpark to the path, which overlooks the stunning coastline, rich with the colours of the Sapphire Coast.

Close-up: flowers and leaves of a coastal rosemary, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Coastal Rosemary – Westringia Fruticosa
Although this regional native is named for the shape of it leaves rather than it’s smell, the flowers carry a very faint, sweet fragrance that contribute to the fresh smell of the bush.

Rocks on the sandy shoreline, Middle Beach, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Nature’s Sculpture: Rocks on Middle Beach
There is beauty and drama everywhere I look.

View over grasses to the calm waters of Middle Lake, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Reeds and Grasses on the Lagoon
Soon we are working our way along the narrow stretch of land separating the South Pacific Ocean and Middle Lake. Middle Lake is a coastal lagoon that is intermittently open to the sea.

Twisted grey mangroves on Middle Lake, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

A Tangle of Trees
Twisted grey mangroves (Avicennia marina) are among the vegetation that grows along the shores of Middle Lagoon.

Walkers on the sands along Middle Lagoon, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Across the Sands

Tall eucalyptus trees reflected in Middle Lake , Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Middle Lake Reflections

Tall eucalyptus trees reflected in Middle Lake, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Still Waters
Middle Lagoon is a pristine body of quiet water framed by dense eucalyptus forest and backed by the coastal hills of the Sapphire Coast.

Bright green aquatic plants on the surface of Middle Lake, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Green
Sections of Middle Lake are sheltered by the surrounding native coastal scrub and eucalyptus forest. The shady, shallow waters are covered with bright green aquatic plants.

Blooms and leaves of a smooth cassia, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Beautiful Invader
Not all of the vegetation belongs here. Smooth cassia (Senna septemtrionalis) is an introduced shrub, widely considered an environmental weed in these eastern coastal regions.

A forest of spotted gums, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Coastal Eucalyptus Forest
We continue into a beautiful forest, mostly consisting of spotted gums (Corymbia Maculata), which thrive in these sandy coastal areas,

People at the trunk of a giant spotted gum tree, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

A Giant Eucalyptus
The tallest known spotted gum in the world is in a forest about three hours north of here, but this one must be almost as large and old.

Looking up the tall trunk of a spotted gum tree, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Spotted Gum – Corymbia Maculata
It stretches up, straight and tall, through the canopy. These trees that typically grows to a height of 45–60 m (148–197 ft) – but I suspect that this one is taller.

Close-up: red bark peeling from a spotted gum, , Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Colourful Bark
Spotted gums are distinguishable by their distinctive patchy and shedding bark …

Close-up: leaf litter, peeled bark, and fresh greenery, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Almost Abstract
… which, with the leaf litter, makes colourful patterns at our feet.

Walkers moving into green vegetation, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Into the Woods
The vegetation changes dramatically as we continue towards Bithry Inlet.

Lily pond, Pender

Lily in the Pond
Know as Pender’s, this area is part of a State Heritage site that was home to a collection of buildings designed by the renowned architect Roy Grounds (1905 – 1981).

Bithry Inlet, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Quiet Waters on Bithry Inlet
After lunch near Penders Beach, we find an alternate track back towards Middle Lagoon.

Eastern grey kangaroo, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Eastern Grey Kangaroo -Macropus Giganteus
We are treated to some native wildlife.

A twisted southern mahogany, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Bangalay Trees – Eucalyptus Botryoides
Colloquially known as southern mahogany, these tree can grow as a straight-trunked tree to 40 m (130 ft) high in favourable conditions. In these coastal areas, however, winds, storms, and salty air twist and contort them into wonderfully gnarled shapes.

White bark of a large, twisting, gum tree, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Twisting Gum
Some of the eucalypts seem to grow more sideways than up.

Shaggy cap mushroom, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Nature’s Artworks: Fabulous Fungus
Shaggy cap mushrooms (Boletellus emodensis) love the sandy soils, leaf litter, and decomposing wood found here in the shadows of the eucalypts and she-oaks.

Lace monitor, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Lace Monitor
A tree goanna (Varanus varius) scuttles off the path in front of us.

Walkers on Middle Beach, Mimosa Rocks National Park, NSW Australia.

Back on Middle Beach
Soon we are back walking along the beach, and almost back at our starting point.

Text: Happy Walking!

It was a beautifully and varied walk.

I finished exhausted – but happy.

Happy Walking!

Photos: 18March2026

 

The Louvre Palace viewed from inside the Pyramid, Paris France

From inside the Pyramid
The Musée du Louvre, the national art museum in Paris, France, contains approximately 500,000 objects – an overwhelming number! And, the building itself is its own work of art.

The Musée du Louvre, the national art museum in Paris, France, is so expansive and so crammed full of incredibly works of art that one can easily be overwhelmed.

I had visited the museum on a brief stay in Paris many years ago – but remembered almost nothing about it. Of course, as most people know, it is home to one of the most celebrated paintings in Western art, the Mona Lisa by Leonardo Da Vinci. And, it houses many magnificent ancient Greek and Roman sculptures collected by French kings over the centuries.

In 2024, 8.7 million people visited the Louvre. I was just one onf them.

I had a couple of short stopovers in Paris as part of a longer trip. I spent my days walking through the historic streets, eating in little cafés, and playing tourist on the Seine (see: On and Around the Seine). I had booked myself a timed-entry to the Louvre (good luck getting in without one!), and although it was a long walk from my boat dock, just below the Eiffel Tower, to the museum on the Right Bank of the river, that allowed me to appreciate some of the other iconic buildings that line the UNESCO-listed banks of the Seine.

The expansive art museum occupies most of the Louvre Palace, originally built in the late 12th to 13th century under Philip II as a defensive fortress. Since then, no fewer than twenty building campaigns have seen it develop and change. It has served a range of functions over the centuries, including as a palace, and later as a display space for the French royal collection. During the French Revolution (1789 – 1799), the National Assembly decreed that the Louvre should be used as a museum to showcase the nation’s masterpieces.

The Louvre we see today has undergone many further changes since then, with visible elements representing various architectural styles, including Gothic, French Renaissance, Louis XIII style, French Baroque, Neoclassical, Neo-Baroque and Second Empire style, and Modernism.

It was this beautiful space – as much as the works of art displayed in it – that commanded my attention.

Pont Royal and the École Du Louvre from the Left Bank, Paris France

Walking along the Seine
After a walk along the Left Bank from the boat pier, the third oldest bridge in Paris, the Pont Royal (1685-1689), comes into view. The first part of the huge château complex we see belongs to the École Du Louvre, a selective institution for higher education established in 1882.

Lions at the Lions Gate, the Louvre, Paris France

Lions at the Louvre
The Porte des Lions or Lions Gate wasn’t open for my visit. These green bronze lions are attributed to to the French sculptor Antoine-Louis Barye (1795 – 1875).

The Louvre Pyramid in the courtyard, Paris France

Cour Napoléon – Napoleon Courtyard
The new entry to the Louvre was designed as part of a decade-long project initiated by French President François Mitterrand in 1981 to expand and remodel the building and museum. The Louvre Pyramid, a large glass-and-metal entrance way and skylight in the main courtyard, was designed by Chinese-American architect I. M. Pei and completed in 1989.

In the courtyard of the Louvre, Paris France

In the Courtyard
The Cour Napoléon is surrounded on three sides by the 19th-century palace wings.

The equestrian statue of Louis XIV in the Louvre courtyard, Paris France

The Sun King
An equestrian statue of Louis XIV by Italian sculptor and architect Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1598 – 1680) sits on a plinth near the entrance pyramid.

Flag on top of the Louvre Palace from inside the Pyramid, Paris France

From Inside the Pyramid

Draped Grecian Marble
In the Department of Greek, Etruscan, and Roman Antiquities on the ground floor of the Sully Wing, the cool Grecian marble begs to be touched.

Silenus cradling the infant Dionysus, Louvre Museum, Paris France

Silenus cradling the infant Dionysus
This tender and beautiful Roman statue of the elderly satyr Silenus cradling baby Dionysus, the god of wine, is a 1st or 2nd CE marble copy of a Hellenistic Greek bronze from 300 BCE.

Incomplete marble bust of Alexander the Great, the Louvre, Paris France

Alexander the Great 330-30 BCE

Marble sculpture of an old centaur being tormented by Cupid, the Louvre, Paris France

Old Centaur Tormented by Cupid 2 CE

Statue of a resting goat, the Louvre, Paris France

Il Caprone – The Billy Goat
I’m a Capricorn born in the year of the goat, so they always grab my attention. This magnificent fellow is part of an exhibition titled “Masterpieces from the Torlonia Collection”. The statue is a hybrid of ancient and modern craftsmanship: the body dates to the Imperial Roman period (late 1st century to early 2nd century CE), while several other parts were restored in the 17th century. The head is attributed to the Italian Renaissance man: Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1598 – 1680).

People and artworks in the renovated summer apartments of Anne of Austria, the Louvre, Paris France

The Torlonia Collection
The Torlonia Collection is the largest and most important private collection of ancient art in the world. The Torlonia princes in Rome starting collecting antiquities in the 19th century. They acquired major collections from other Italian families and through excavations on their estates. This exhibition, installed in the renovated summer apartments of Anne of Austria, marks the first time these artworks have been on public display since the 1970s.

Statue of the Nile, the Louvre, Paris France

Statue of Nilus
This 2nd century CE Roman marble is another breathtaking sculpture from the Torlonia Collection. It shows of the god of the Nile River holding wheat and a cornucopia as symbols of the fertility and prosperity that follow the annual floods.

The Creation of Man painted ceiling, the Louvre, Paris France

Look Up!
Even the ceilings are extraordinary. This one in the Rotunda of Mars is known as the Creation of Man. Originally painted by Jean-Simon Berthélemy in 1802, this version was repainted or restored by Jean-Simon Berthélemy in 1826. The picture shows Prometheus bringing life to a human figure with fire, as Athena and other Olympian deities watch.

The Louvre Palace through a barred window, Paris France

Through the Window
Everywhere, there is light – as windows look out across the courtyard to the other wings.

Venus de Milo, the Louvre, Paris France

Venus de Milo
Some things are just breathtakingly luminous in real life. Created some time between 130 and 100 BC, during the Hellenistic period, this is believed to depict the Greek goddess of love and beauty, Aphrodite.

The Winged Victory of Samothrace
This is a marble Hellenistic sculpture showing the Greek goddess of victory, Nike, landing on the prow of a warship. Created around 190 BC, it is considered a masterpiece of ancient Greek art and a symbol of triumph.

Hands on a phone taking a picture of the Mona Lisa, the Louvre, Paris France

La Gioconda – Mona Lisa
I’ve been up close to this 16th-century oil painting by Leonardo da Vinci before. Arguably the most famous portrait in the world, the crush to view this little gem was impossible. I settled for second-hand!

People on the stairs in an arched hallway, the Louvre, Paris France

Arched Hallways
People make their way down the Escalier Daru (Daru Staircase) as closing-time looms.

Steps into an arched corridor, the Louvre, Paris France

Steps in a Corridor
I was distracted regularly by the beauty of the space itself.

Maxim

Gift Shop
Naturally, exiting the museum involves running the gauntlet of souvenir shopping. One can hardly complain, though, when the shops in the underground Carrousel du Louvre mall include the legendary Maxim’s de Paris!

In the courtyard of the Louvre, Paris France

Back in the Courtyard
When I find my way outside, the light has fallen over the palace square.

Having enjoyed a feast for the visual senses, it was time to walk back to my hotel.

Text: Bon AppétitNaturally, it was not hard to find a charming bistro in which to stop and eat along the way!

Photos: 29September2024