.jpg) Sii T’ax (Lava Lake) in Nisga’a Provincial Park
This is a sight worth detouring for! On a blue-sky morning, it’s a beautiful and quiet place – albeit with a sad history. This lake in Northern British Columbia, Canada, was enlarged when lava flow from a volcanic eruption dammed the Tseax River. That same eruption wiped out two villages of Nisga’a people. I love a road trip!
It was my first trip back to Canada for several years – thanks to life, and Covid19, and stuff.
I had some painful business to deal with, so I had decided to reward myself afterwards with a long-dreamed-of trip to the magical islands of Haida Gwaii (see: Weekly Wanders Haida Gwaii). Haida Gwaii is not the easiest place to get to, and I spent some time in British Columbia’s northwest city of Prince Rupert (see: Butze Rapids) before catching the ferry for the rough, nine-hour-plus crossing of the Hecate Strait to get there.
The ferry back to the mainland after my week-long stay on the archipelago was an overnight trip (see: xxxx) which landed me back on the mainland before 6:00am.
Not a thing was open! I couldn’t get so much as a cup of coffee. I had a room reserved in Smithers, about four hours from the coast, but of course wouldn’t have access to that until later in the afternoon. I parked outside a closed fast-food outlet to tap into their wifi so I could plot my day.
My option was to drive …
While I was travelling, I heard stories about the Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park. Some time between 1668 and 1778, the Tseax Cone (the Nisga’a volcano) in the Nass Valley erupted, wiping out two villages and killing about 2,000 Nisga’a people. It was Canada’s deadliest volcanic disaster – and one which, until recently – I’d never heard of.
So, when I reached Terrace on the Yellowhead Highway, in stread of heading directly to Smithers where I was scheduled to meet an old friend later in the day, I turned left and detoured further north on the winding Nisga,a Highway through the scenic Kitsumkalum Valley.
Join me on some northern roads.
.jpg) Highway 16, Prince Rupert, BC
The roads are quiet and a pleasure to drive this far north. .jpg) Roadside Workers
Most of the people I come across outside of the city are there to do a job: I don’t know what service these men belonged to, but I liked the colour of their vests against the endless rain-forest green.  Moments of Wonder – Dandelions Prince Rupert Dock
The small city of Prince Rupert is essentially a port: serving as the land, air, and water transportation hub for British Columbia’s North Coast. Eagle Bluff Bed & Breakfast Cow Bay
Prince Rupert has the dubious honour of being Canada’s wettest city. The wooden buildings are brightly painted to ward off any potential wet-weather gloom. Waterfront
The shops and restaurants along the waterfront are well worth a wander. Be warned though: we are along way north and quite remote here: a technical glitch had all ATMs, wifi, and eftpos inoperational for a large proportion of my stay. Cash only, please! Bear Sculpture
This wonderful piece is an example of Tsimshian mortuary art used to store a box with the deceased’s ashes. The bear is a revered spirit animal in Northwest Coast cultures. Tsimshian Bentwood Box
Made from one piece of wood that is steamed at three corners and bent around to form a box, these beautiful creations were used for both symbolic and practical purposes. Chief’s Headdress Apron and Leggings
Tlingit Shaman’s Rattle
Northern British Columbia is home to several diverse First Nations, including the Haida, Tlingit, Nisga’a, Tahltan, Gitxsan, Wet’suwet’en, and Carrier (Dakelh) peoples. Anget Pole of Ninstints
Outside, there is a full-size copy by William Jeffrey of a famous family pole from the now-abandoned village of SGang Gwaay (Ninstints) in Haida Gwaii. Into the Sunrise along the Yellowhead Highway
The ferry from Haida Gwaii sets me onto the road east before 6am. … and then the Rain Returned … My first Moose!
Well, my only moose. I’ve never seen one in the wild. This beautiful mural entitled Swamp Donkey was painted in 2021 by artist Casey Braam on the building next to the Terrace Tim Horton’s – where I parked to get wifi. Nisga’a Highway
I backtracked, and pointed the car north on Highway 113, where even the ongoing rain could not diminish the mountains in the distance. Reflections in Lava Lake
Fortunately, the skies cleared when I reached the Sii T’ax (Lava Lake) Picnic Area. The Visitor Information Centre
The design on this traditional-style longhouse in Nisga’a Memorial Lava Bed Provincial Park was painted by Nisga’a artist Jaimie Davis and depicts Gwax Ts’agat (the super being). Unfortunately, the centre was closed. Nisga’a Memorial Lava Beds
Part of the lava flows that buried the two Nisga’a villages some time around 1700 are accessible from the road. Walking trails provide restricted access – but I wasn’t going to venture far without breakfast or coffee! Even the local museum was not open for another hour. White Water and the Drowned Forest
I turned the car around – stopping at a point along the Tseax River, where the waters roar past taking fallen timbers with them – and made the resolution to return here one day, with more time. Small Town – Big Sky!
Late afternoon (after several long-awaited meal-stops!), I made it into Smithers. The magnificent snow-capped Hudson Bay Mountain dwarfs the town. My Mate the Mountain Goat
I’m a capricorn born in the year of the goat, so goats always grab my attention. The Babine Mountain Goat in Smithers is named for the nearby Babine Mountains Provincial Park, where a healthy population of these animals reside. A Rare BlueSky!
Rocky Mountain goats (Oreamnos americanus) are endemic to these remote and rugged mountainous areas of western North America. I’ve only ever seen a few in my life – high above me in the mountains. Wild Women Walking
The next morning, I follow my friend as she follows a bear trail up the hill behind her house in Telkwa – a small village near Smithers. Dance for me Pretty Columbine (Aquilegia Formosa)!
Fortunately, we do not cross paths with the bear. Western Columbine – Aquilegia Formosa
I love columbine – and these natives are beautiful! Tiny Treasures : Sticky Cinquefoil (Drymocallis Glandulosa) Those Mountains
At the top of the hill, there are uninterrupted views over Tyhee Lake to the surrounding mountains. What a gorgeous spot to stand and reminisce about long-ago high-school days! It is amazing the details we remembered after all these years.
 But, it was time for me to move on – and follow the roads southwest.
Until Next Time!
Pictures: 07June2022 and 18-19June2022
On the Rails
A charming little train with a sleek, modern exterior and traditional-looking wooden-slat seats inside follows electric, self-propulsion rack-railway tracks through the subalpine forests and up the steep climb from the Chamonix-Montenvers Railway Station to the Montenvers Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice). I was staying in Geneva, Switzerland, but spending the day in Chamonix-Mont-Blanc (Chamonix) in France.
Europe is like that!
In the midst of a couple of rainy days in Geneva visiting with old friends before continuing further east, I booked myself an self-guided day trip bus trip to Chamonix. This included a ticket for the gondola up to the top of the Aiguille du Midi: a peak in the French Alps that affords wonderful views over the Mont Blanc massif and across to that legendary mountain itself. That portion of my day was exhilarating (see: On Top of the World), and I was so glad that I had finally made it there.
Also included in my day was a ticket for The Montenvers Train, which runs 20 minutes up the 5.1 km (3.2 mi) rack railway line from Chamonix to the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice). This is the largest glacier in France and the most visited. Once there, you can ride a gondola down to the ice-pack itself, and (sometimes) walk into an ice cave. Back in the 17th century, there was an imposing natural cave in the glacier’s terminal tongue. Since the mid-1900s, an artificial tunnel has been dug into the glacier to accommodate tourist visitors.
Unfortunately, like other glaciers around the world, the Mer de Glace is shrinking. Measured since the 1860s, it has lost 120 meters in thickness over a century at its terminus, and the leading edge retreats about 70m every year.
I’ve visited several glaciers in my time (eg: Perito Merino), and this one, with its surfeit of gritty moraine, could only be described as disappointing.
Still, the trip itself was well worth it – and it certainly highlights the effects of climate change!
Mountaintops and Icicles
The views over the Mont Blanc massif from the Aiguille du Midi in the French Alps are just jaw-dropping (see: On Top of the World). Autumn Colours in Chamonix
Back in the Chamonix-Mont-Blanc streets below, I walk past condominiums, vacation apartments, … A Bee Hotel
… and hotels for people and insects. Hang Glider
There are blue skies overhead … Mont Blanc Peaks
… and jagged, snow-dusted peaks all around. La Maison Des Artistes – Artist’s Residence
Beautiful natural environments attract creative people. This complex: the Villa des Améthystes, was built in 1926 in the local architectural style. It is now a key location on the artistic scene. It features living and meeting spaces and a state-of-the-art recording studio. On the Bridge
I meet plenty of tourists and locals as I follow my GoogleMaps across town and over the tracks to the Montenvers Mer De Glace Train Station. Gare de Chamonix-Montenvers
The Railway Station de Montenvers, built between 1906 and 1908, was the departure station for the famous cogwheel train to the Mer de Glace glacier. On the Fence
Today, the railway carriages are entered through a simple gate. An attendant watches as our train departs. Overlooking the Winding River of Ice
When we get off the train, we arrive into an observation area overlooking the glacial moraine. Rocks and Gravel Télécabine de la Mer de Glace
Opened in 2024, the modern arrival station’s circular glass design provides panoramic views up the Mer de Glace glacier and over the alpine landscape. Ice Cave
The bubble lift (cable car) takes you down towards the ice – but due to the significant recession of the glacier, there are still over a hundred steps down to our lowest access point. We were unable to descend the remaining 100-or-so stairs to the cave itself because it had become unstable and was off-limits. Moon over Chamonix
With the restaurant closed for the season and the ice cave off limits, I make the best of it by reading all the travel-style posters and the information on glacier formation. Apparently, Mary Shelley was greatly inspired by the the Mer de Glace. After camping there with her husband in 1816, she called it ‘The most desolate place in the world’. Mer De Glace Montenvers
Every so often, the clouds lift, and the valley of ice is lit up. A Moment of Light
The Mont Blanc Massif behind the glacier catches the sun. Closed and Forlorn
The Refuge du Montenvers, a historic hotel and restaurant located at the Montenvers station, is closed for the season. Portrait of a Tradesman
Since I can’t explore the building, I chat with the tradesmen doing work on the site. Admiring the View Another Tradesman
Work is going on all around. Laying Concrete
A fresh walkway is going in next to the cogged train tracks. Chamonix and the Forêt Communale de Chamonix
As I go back down the hill, I admire the valley from the train. Tall Conifers – Taller Mountains La Locomotive Nº8
This is one of four high-pressure steam locomotives introduced to improve transport to the Mer de Glace glacier. It operated from 1927 to 1964, and stands in contrast to the new, sleek electric carriages. Mille-Feuilles in a Display Case
No one does pastries quite like the French! I stop into the Rose du Pont restaurant where the decor is as magnificent as the food. Water and Wine
I manage to resist the pastries, and order roasted vegetables – and of course, wine and water. Almost Abstract : Back to Geneva
We are treated to a magnificent, dreamy sunset as we motor along the smooth highway from France back to Switzerland. It was a wonderful day, and well worth the trip. As sad as it is to see the decline in the Mer de Glace, that is the world we are living in.
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 02October2024
A Little Bit of Rain Forest in the City
We are in the city of Greater Sydney, but the giant bird’s-nest fern (Asplenium australasicum) lets us know we’ve left the high-rises behind. You are still in the city, but not quite!
There is a ringing of birdsong – and the roar of sirens. The rustling of skinks in the leaf-litter contrasts with the clanging of distant machinery. Wind whistles in the branches while a helicopter whirrs overhead.
There is something magical about city parks: oases of fresh, green calm amid the concrete and chaos.
I love my city breaks (eg: Snapshots of Sydney) and (almost!) never tire of walking the familiar downtown streets for the ballet, theatre, art galleries, or just the iconic sights.
But, it is also a pleasure to explore somewhere new. I recently had a couple of weeks in the city, and was determined to use my new Gold Opal (transport) Card, and to expand my experience of the city. After perusing AllTrails, I decided on the short (2.7km/1.7mi) and easy Wollstonecraft Loop. I also decided to rely on my iPhone – as the cameras were in for a clean.
My day started with a very late lunch followed by the scenic train trip across the Sydney Harbour Bridge, travelling from the nearby station to Sydney’s lower North Shore harbourside suburb of Wollstonecraft. The start of the official walk was directly outside Wollstonecraft Station.
Do come along!
The Train Across the Bridge
I haven’t crossed the bridge by train often – but it is always a delight. A Haven in Green and Purple
November is jacaranda season in Sydney. As soon as I leave the train station, I’m in Greendale Park, where the locals are enjoying their afternoon. Araucaria Pine – Norfolk or Bunya?
The park is home to some ancient, towering conifers. I know these are in the Araucariaceae plant family, and I think that they are Norfolk pine. Almost Abstract: Stringybark Eucalyptus Strength And Beauty
We haven’t quite left the city behind: concrete pillars stand strong in contrast to the African iris (Dietes grandiflora) that grow wild here. Berrys Creek
The next minute, I’m in a small, secluded glen, complete with tumbling water and warm-temperate rainforest vegetation. Bird’s Nest Fern – Asplenium Australasicum
I still get excited walking through sub-tropical forests: through the same plants I used to buy at great expense and nurture so carefully in my living room in the Northern Hemisphere! Steps Down
The circuit is mostly well-marked and well-maintained – but there are a lot of steps and some overhanging branches, so: “Watch your feet and watch your head!” Lush Rainforest Gully along Berry Creek “Riparian Zones”
North Sydney Council has done a great job of installing informative signposts along the way. Boulders
The vegetation and landscapes are remarkably varied. Where the Rainforest Meets the City
Soon, the tidal inlet of Gore Cove comes into view. Nature’s Artworks : Sydney Sandstone Living Textures : Staghorn Fern (Platycerium Superbum) Grass Tree – Xanthorrhoea
The coastal bushland along Gore Cove is rich with a variety of colours and textures. Flannel Flower – Actinotus Helianthi
I love these an Australian native wildflowers! Although they look like the alpine Edelweiss (Leontopodium nivale), they belong to a completely different plant family. Australian Water Dragon – Intellagama Lesueurii
These delightful little reptiles move quickly through the leaf litter – I’m not sure how many photos I took while watching this one! Spotted Gum – Corymbia Maculata Gore Cove
Greenwich, across the waters, was a major hub for 19th-century shipbuilding, brickmaking, and bulk petroleum distribution. Today these industries are being replaced and the area is becoming gentrified. Another Australian Water Dragon – Intellagama Lesueurii Old Steps
Further along, some old steps lead down to the water … Fisheries Dock
… where a variety of vessels are anchored and moored. Australian Brush Turkey (Alectura Lathami) on the Steps Eastern Rosella – Platycercus Eximius
The fence tells us we are back in the suburbs. If you squint, you can just see the rosella in the bush. Sydney Red Gum – Angophora Costata
The colourful rusty gum is endemic to eastern Australia. Berrys Creek
The circuit takes me back over the the creek … Nature’s Artworks : a Peeling Gum Tree
… and past more gorgeous eucalyptus trees. Crossing that Iconic Bridge
Before I know it, I am on the bridge and heading back to Sydney’s Central Business District.
The Wollstonecraft Loop is such a lovely little circuit – and the train trip across the harbour is a bonus.
I heartily recommend it.
Until next time,
Leave Only Footprints!
Pictures: 13November2025
Through the Layers of Time
On Cedar Island – also known as Cleopatra Island – in the Gulf of Gökova, Türkiye, a traditional Turkish gulet sailing vessel is framed by the ruins of the small 13CE Kitsak Church, built when the Karia region was under the rule of the Eastern Roman Empire. Elsewhere on this little island, visible ruins of city walls, a small theatre, and a temple, date back to Ancient Greece and remind us that the region was once the property of Rhodes. There is something surreal about about dipping into waters where the Egyptian Queen Cleopatra once swam!
Just off the coast in Muğla Province in the southwestern corner of Türkiye there is a small island called Sedir Adası (Cedar Island). In the beautiful Gulf of Gökova, a southeastern arm of the Aegean Sea, this island was once a source of cedar. Today the island and its surroundings are covered with a dense, Mediterranean shrubland and olive and pine groves.
And ruins – Ancient Greek and Roman ruins.
Alternately called Cleopatra Island, it is said that Antony and Cleopatra had a love-nest here – and that the golden sands on the beach where they swam were brought in by ships from the Red Sea in North Africa on the orders of Mark Antony. It has also been said that this type of sand can only be found in Egypt (see: Visiting the Cleopatra Island).
Unfortunately, the claims are dubious. Contemporary research suggests that the tiny, pearl-like grains of sand – while exceptionally rare – are the result of continual erosion of the sandstone bed on site. And, this is not the only Cleopatra Beach in Türkiye!
But, much of the history is real. The ruins are real. And, the island and beach truly are beautiful – well worthy of Antony and Cleopatra. The sands are protected – with prohibitions against removing any, or even walking on it barefoot. Access to the shallow sea for swimming is via designated points.
The island is small: less than 1 km (0.62 mi) long and divided in the middle by a narrow isthmus. Remnants of the strong ashlar wall that once surrounded the original settlement are still standing just above the water-line on higher ground and within forested areas.
The whole island is managed by the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism like an open-air museum. I was happy to pay the modest entrance fee to explore the layers of history scattered around, and to admire the unique beauty. Join me!
Watch the Marker!
I was on a small-ship circuit in the wonderful Gökova Gulf in southwestern Türkiye. We had spent the morning sailing and swimming and kayaking (see: Sailing the Turquoise Waters). Mid-afternoon, our next destination: Sedir Adası (Cedar Island) came into view. “Kaptan Yarkin”
There are plenty of other gulets on the gulf, with their passengers taking advantage of the beautiful autumn weather. Ruins on Sedir Adası
As we get closer to the island the remains of what was once a significant Dorian settlement come into view. Tourist Boats in a Cove
Cedar Island is about 20 minutes from Çamlı Pier on the mainland, and plenty of tourist boats offer the trip. Cleopatra Island
This hot, dry landscape was once a trade and olive-growing hub. The 13CE Kitsak Church
From 129 BCE, the city here came under the rule of Rome – and remained so until the full domination of the Ottoman Empire in the first quarter of the 15th century. Wooden Walkway
A network of wooden walkways wind through scrub, past the ruins, and over the precious sands at the beach. Kleopatra Plaji – Cleopatra Beach
The depth of colour in the turquoise water changes with every shift in the light. Late Miocene Volcanic Rock
The walkway might be designed to protect the precious sand, but I’m pleased that it also protects me from that rough volcanic rock. Schooners in the Cove
Cleopatra Beach in on the north side of an isthmus; I have views through the Mediterranean scrub to boats anchored in a cove … Protected Waters
… and across grasslands to a shallow inlet. Kedreai Theatre
The theatre, which was built in the 4th century BCE, lies outside the city walls. It is not in particularly good shape, but I think the crumbling seats with the olives growing amongst them have far more charm than a renovated space. Posing in Kedreai Theatre Antik Tiyatro – Ancient Theatre
The theatre was large for the size of the settlement, with a capacity of 2500 people. Hellenistic Ruins and Wall
The ashlar wall that once surrounded the settlement is so well-built and durable that much of it stills stand against the sea. Archaeological Dig Team
Parts of the ruins are roped off, with teams of archaeologists carefully working through them. A Dry Landscape
Much of the old settlement has been reclaimed by nature. Hellenistic Ruins
The whole area is strewn with broken columns, capitals, and stones decorated with pictures and reliefs. Archaeologist at Work
It is very hot and silent as I wind my way through the ancient site. Apollon Kutsal Alanı – Sanctuary of Apollo
There was a temple here, dated to 2 BCE and thought have been dedicated to Apollo. Cleopatra’s Waters
Back at the beach, a gentle tide washes against the barriers protecting the golden sand. Natures Artworks : Pebbles and Shells on Cleopatra’s Beach
Looking at the rounded edges of the shells on the beach, it is easier to understand how the golden beach sands have been formed into tiny spherical grains of calcium carbonate (ooids) over thousands of years. Swimmers in Cleopatra’s Waters
Lots of visitors to the island take advantage of swimming in the shallow, silky waters off the beach. Cleopatra’s Waters With its golden sands, turquoise waters and fabulous mountain backdrop, it truly is a beautiful place.
Until next time,
Safe Sailing!
Photos: 04October2022
Water Colours
The tiny island of Banda Api in Indonesia’s Banda Sea, is home to a few people, the tiny mosque of Masjid Nur At Taqwa, and Gunung Api, a highly active volcano. (04April2025) Imagine living in the shadow of an active volcano!
Gunung Api – or Fire Mountain – is a peak of about 640-650 m. (2100-2133 ft.) on the little island of Banda Api in the province of Maluku, Indonesia. The almost-circular island has a diameter only 3 kilometres (1.9 mi), and most of it rises steeply to the volcanic peak.
Banda Api is at the center of the Banda Islands, a volcanic group of ten small islands in the Banda Sea. Between 1586 and 1988 the volcano on Banda Api erupted over twenty times. The last eruption was on May 10, 1988: three people died, and the rest of the population of 1,800 islanders as well the majority of the residents of nearby Banda Neira were evacuated to Ambon, the capital and largest city in the province, some 200 kilometers away.
Today, the volcano is still classed as “highly active” and is subject to scrutiny (see: Global Volcanism Program. Smithsonian Institution). The scars on the land still show, only a small subset of the previous inhabitants have moved back, and trekking to the peak is not recommended.
My small ship, the Coral Geographer, was anchored for two days in the Zonnegat Channel, the narrow body of water that separates Banda Api from its much smaller, but more populated neighbour Banda Neira. I had made boat excursions to Banda Neira a couple of times (see: In the Historic Town of Banda Neira), and had snorkeled in the coral reef which had established itself on the lava flow (see: In and On the Banda Sea), but I had yet to visit the volcanic island itself.
Having had tantalising glimpses from the ship and from the tenders, I was really looking forward to exploring what I could of the island. Unfortunately, this was the sort of voyage where: if it could go wrong, it would. I got up early for a 0630am tender departure – but as soon as we landed on Banda Api and met our local guides, the skies opened up.
In spite of the heavy rain, I did manage to follow the narrow concrete path for a walk past typical simple houses, fine forests, tropical gardens, and the little mosque that I had been watching from my porthole. Somewhere along the way, I gave up on using the cameras, and the guides turned us back because they deemed the path ahead too slippery.
Ah well – a short visit is better than none!
Volcanic Landslip
Evidence from the most recent eruption on Banda Api is still visible on the mountainside. (03April2025) From My Window
Is it a porthole if it is square? My view of the little mosque on Banda Api had me keen to visit the next day. (03April2025) Gunung Api – Mount Api
From Fort Belgica on Banda Neira on our first day, I had great views over the volcanic island next door. (03April2025) Mosque on Banda Api
It was still dark when I went out to board my tender for the morning’s excursion. (04April2025) Morning Light on Banda Neira
As we set off in the tenders, morning light breaks through the wet clouds. (04April2025) Masjid Hatta-Syahrir
With around 7,000 inhabitants, Banda Neira is much more populous than Banda Api, and is home to more than one mosque. We get views of the waterfront as we make our way across the channel to Banda Api. (04April2025) Village Host
When we arrive on Banda Api, the villagers greet us on the shore and make ready to walk us through the small village. (04April2025) A Winding, Wobbly Path
Volcanic stone is incorporated into the narrow path that winds through the village clinging to the shoreline. (04April2025) Boats on the Shoreline
Life on the island is dependant on the surrounding sea. Outboard motors are the community’s lifeblood. (04April2025) Boats Reflected
I love how the light bounces off the wet boats. “Give Me Shelter”
Like in much of the tropics, housing is simple and made from a combination of new and recycled materials. Rose Apples – Syzygium Jambos
Common across Asia, rose apples are a tropical fruit in the myrtle family. The rose apples we used to buy in Thai supermarkets were clearly a different variant, as they were about the size of a pear. These were tiny! Papaya – Carica Papaya
You will never go hungry in the tropics! Between the sun, the rain and humidity, and the fertile soil, fruit trees grow fast and tall. Masjid Nur At Taqwa
In spite of the rain, I managed to make it as far as the tidy little mosque. Boats in the Rain Our Ship from the Shore
Our nearby vessel almost disappears into the tropical rainstorm. A Tidy Porch
We take refuge on the porches of kind residents. Rain like Icicle LED Lights In the Rear View
Soaked to the skin, we reboarded the tenders and made our way back to the ship. As I said, a short visit is better than none – and the hot shower in my cabin back on board was most welcome.
For, even in the tropics, rain is wet.
Safe Sailing!
Pictures: 03-04April2025
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