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Overlooking Saint-Cirq Lapopie
Sitting high on a hillside, the charming medieval village of Saint-Cirq Lapopie in the southwest of France has commanding views over the Lot River and the neighbouring fields and villages.
It is like stepping into the past – but with boutique shops, contemporary arts and crafts, and great coffee!
Saint-Cirq Lapopie is a heritage-listed medieval village in the southwest of France. Located on a steep cliff, 100m above the Lot River, it originally served as a defensive and administrative centre for one of the local viscomtés – a division of land and fiefdom smaller and less important than a duché. Many of the castles and fortresses – some dating as far back as the 13th century – remain.
Today, the well-preserved commune is a member of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France – (The most beautiful villages in France) association and is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the department of Lot. It is on the French Way of St. James pilgrimage route, and is – among other designations – in the heart of a Regional Natural Park and in the UNESCO Global Geopark of the Causses du Quercy.
I was visiting friends in Cahors, a mere 30 km (19 mi) to the west. Our plan was to walk to Saint-Cirq Lapopie along the 4 km (2.5 mi) towpath – the Chemin de Halage – from Bouziès (see: the Chemin de Halage). Unfortunately, rain drove us back halfway, so we drove the rest of the distance, and parked above the village.
Fortunately, the rains eased, and we only contended with a light drizzle and overcast skies as we explored this charming locale.
Do come along!
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Pastorale
These rural villages are timeless!
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Saint-Cirq Lapopie (La Popie)
As we walk down from the carpark, we can appreciate the karst cliffs formed during the Jurassic period, and the picturesque medieval village that takes advantage of the views over the river and surrounding fields.
Old House at the Top of the Village
It is always interesting to see the juxtaposition of modern cars parked next to very old architecture!
Red Berries
It is autumn and bright red berries contrast with the wet green leaves.
Church in the Village
The gothic Saint-Cirq Lapopie Church takes pride of place in the village. It is dedicated to Saint Cyr, the three year old Cyril of Tarsus, who was martyred with his mother, Sainte Julitta, in the early 4th century.
Grape Leaves
Shuttered Windows
Shutters are common in the south of France and are considered essential to keep out the sun in the heat of the summer. In the winter, they insulate against the cold.
Crucifix
Traditionally, France is a Roman Catholic country, and the signs of this are everywhere.
Overlooking the Village
These are the half-timbered houses of the bourgeoisie. Parts date back to the 13th and 14th centuries, …
Village Houses
… with the beams and upper stories added in 15th century. Today they house artists’ ateliers, coffee shops, and boutiques.
The Moulin de l’Aulanac
Our walk overlooks a 14th-century watermill, with its half-timber exterior of exposed stone. It once housed four millstones to service the village’s needs.
Mossy Roofs and Ivy Walls
Knight Guardian Signpost
The village is known for its artisans – and examples are everywhere.
Wet Cobbles in a Village Lane
Saint-Cirq Lapopie Church (c.1522)
Stained Glass in the Church
The current church was built on the same ground as an earlier Romanesque parish church. It retains some features from that time including some 12th century sculpted acanthus leaf decorations and fragments of 13th century wall paintings. I believe the stained glass is a modern addition.
Just a Door Knocker
Rooftop Details
Peaked tiled roofs over narrow square towers and battlements feature all around.
Gated Courtyards
Gardens hide behind a decorative stone fence. They surround what was once a 15th century fortified house, and is now the Musée Rignault.
Overlooking the Street
From the little hill at the end of the village, we can look back over Rue de la Pélissaria.
Porte de la Pélissaria
A well-preserved arched city gate marks this end of the village.
Castle on the Hill
As we walk back, the castle, the seigniorial fort, stands tall on the hill above us. Built in the 13th century, it was abandoned in the 16th.
Sleeping Dog
Église de Saint Cirq la Popie
Back outside the village, we get our last view over the church.
Steep Bluff
And, we look back at the Rock of La Popie. You can just see people who climbed up the promontory – as we had – for views over the village and the valley.
The entire town is like a museum, and it reminded me how much I love these distinctive old areas in Europe.
Saint-Cirq Lapopie has been attracting artists since the mid-1900s. We enjoyed exploring the ateliers and shops as much as we appreciated wandering through the cobbled streets and medieval architecture!
27September2024
