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Taaw Tldáaw – Tow Hill
The story of the land here on Haida Gwaii, an archipelago off Canada’s west coast, is in the rock formations. The local story of Taaw Tldáaw tells of bitterness and rivalry between two (non-human) brothers. Modern geologists talk about an isolated volcanic plug that solidified about two million years ago. I don’t really understand either story – but I marvel at the landscape.
There is magic in the rocks and trees of Haida Gwaii in Canada’s British Columbia (BC).
The people of the Haida Nation have lived here for at least 13,000 years – although ninety percent of the population died in the 1800s from smallpox, thanks to the first European contact in 1774. The islands were important during the maritime fur trade era of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, and came under British colonial rule in 1851. They were part of Canada when I went to school (many years later!), and were still known by their British name: the Queen Charlotte Islands.
Today, about half the population of 4500 people has Haida heritage. Indigenous place names have been restored, and the traditional stories about the landscape are being recovered and signposted.
Haida Gwaii had an almost mythical quality in my imagination, and I had been wanting to visit for a long time. Once I finally got there – three years ago now – I explored as much of the region as I could with a map and a rental car.
After a long days of travel and limbo, I spent my first full day on Graham Island – the largest island in the Haida Gwaii group – close to my base in the village of Daajing Giids (formerly known as Queen Charlotte). I took a short walk around Spirit Lake (see: Welcome to Haida Gwaii) to get a feel for the place.
On the second day, I drove north across the island to the village of Masset for lunch, and then into Naikoon Provincial Park for a short – but steep – walk up Taaw Tldáaw – Tow Hill.
Join me.
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To the Water
Just 15 minutes out of my base at Daajing Giids, I stopped at the Balance Rock car park. The beach is a short walk through the woods.
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Rocky Beach
In the last ice age, glaciers sculpted this landscape.
Boulders Left Behind
Here, along the coast, those glaciers left trails of boulders behind when they retreated.
Balance Rock
This famous boulder has stood here since then, resisting even the most powerful Haida Gwaii storms, with their thundering waves and high winds.
A Natural Wonder
The Balance Rock’s centre of gravity is exactly over the point of contact with the underlying rock, effectively gluing it to its base and making it immoveable.
Morris White Pole in the Woods
Although they are often all referred to as ‘totem poles’, these ubiquitous examples of Haida art and skill are more often clan or memorial poles. The stylised creatures carved and painted on the red cedar poles tell stories of a person, a clan, or a particular event. This memorial pole, located in Old Massett, was carved and raised in 1999 by well-known Indigenous artist Christian White in honour of his father.
Old Massett Street Sign
Sarah’s Haida Arts and Jewellery
The K’aadsnee Shark House pole stands in front of a store full of wonderful arts: carvings in argillite and wood, Indigenous weaving, and precious jewellery – all crafted by artists of Haida ancestry. The pole was carved by internationally acclaimed Haida artist Reg Davidson in 1986.
Pole at St.John’s Anglican Church
Carved and raised in 1969 by Robert Davidson, a leading figure in the renaissance of Haida art and culture, this was the first contemporary pole in Old Massett.
Driving Into The Woods
As I leave Massett behind and drive into Naikoon Provincial Park, I find myself on an unsealed road. At least it is well groomed! (iPhone12Pro)
Tall Trees in Silhouette
The park is tidy, with two vehicle-accessible campgrounds and scattered picnic tables and outhouse toilets. (iPhone12Pro)
Totems at the Hiellen Village Longhouses
Modern longhouses built in traditional style are available to those who want to camp in more comfort – for a fee payable to the Old Massett Village Council, who own and operate the site.
Trees in the Forest
I set off on the path through the coastal temperate rainforest.
Textures : Tree Bark and Moss
Salal – Gaultheria Shallon
Mouth of the Hiellen River
The first section of the walk to Tow Hill is along the Blowhole Trail, with views over the river.
Accessible Pathway
The Blowhole Trail is a wheelchair accessible boardwalk running for just under a kilometre (0.6 mile).
Oldgrowth Specklebelly Lichen – Pseudocyphellaria Rainierensis
Mosses and lichens thrive in the shady forest.
The Shores of McIntyre Bay
The path comes out onto McIntyre Bay; the waters of Dixon Entrance beyond form the disputed boundary with Alaska, just 80 km (50 miles) away.
Tow Hill – Taaw Tldáaw
The mythical Taaw, for whom this magnificent basalt plug is named, found the Hiellen River in his travels. He liked it here, and decided to stay.
Rocky Tidepools
Meanwhile Taaw’s older brother sent a whale and large bird to chase after him. Taaw turned them both into stone, creating this blowhole. The sea was quiet and the tides were wrong while I was there: the whale was not spouting any water.
Wooden Stairs
The whole circuit up Tow Hill and back to the car park is meant to be just 2.3 km (1.4 mi); somehow I clocked up a lot more than that! This section is obviously not wheelchair-friendly – and it got steeper around the next bend. AllTrails considers the track a moderately challenging route.
Giant Stump
Light in the Ferns
Several types of ferns grow here – it think this is a Dryopteris expansa, also known as the spreading wood fern.
How Old?
I know you can measure the age of a tree by counting the rings, but how long would it take?
Rose Point
From the top of Tow Hill, there are views northeast to Rose Spit, which is where the Haida people are said to originate. That is where the Raven, one of the most powerful creatures in Haida mythology, heard noises coming from a clamshell. He found many tiny little creatures hiding inside. Because he was feeling lonely, he persuaded the beings to emerge from under the shell and they became the first people.
Yakan Point
The view southeast is to Yakan Point, just east of Agate Beach.
Rain on the Rocks
After finishing my walk, I drove the short distance back to Agate Beach. The stones and pebbles here have been smoothed by many years of exposure to the west coast winds and powerful oceans. I didn’t find any agate, but I did like the colours – especially as the rain started. (iPhone12Pro)
Same Rock – Different Light
Arriving back near the south end of Graham Island later in the day, I stopped again at Balance Rock and marvelled at how different it looked in the clear, early evening light.
A bit of driving across the island; a bit of walking through the totems, the trees, and the stones;
… and, a whole lot of myths and stories.
Just another day on this beautiful archipelago.
Until next time …
Photos: 11June2022
