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A Bird of Paradise
Youngsters in their traditional costumes are ready to perform for us in the remote and tiny village of Kwatisore on Cenderawasih Bay in Papua, Indonesia.
It was a trip I’d been anticipating for a long time: an ocean voyage on a small ship to visit remote West Papuan villages and to snorkel in the marine-rich waters around Raja Ampat and the Spice Islands. The chance to swim with giant whale sharks was what had sold me on this particular itinerary.
We were aboard an Australian ship, the Coral Geographer, and had been in Indonesian waters for five days. After leaving Sorong, we sailed clockwise around the Vogelkop, or Bird’s Head, of New Guinea. We stopped at Mansinam Island to snorkel amid colourful coral and small fish and to visit the village itself (see: Welcome to West Papua).
Unfortunately, on leaving Mansinam Island it became apparent that our ship was not making good headway: one of the azipods that provides the vessel’s propulsion was not working. As a consequence, we had an extra sea day, and arrived late into Cenderawasih Bay.
Cenderawasih (“Bird of Paradise”) Bay is the large body of water that sits between the Bird’s Head and the rest of New Guinea. It is bordered by the Indonesian provinces of West Papua to the west and Papua to the east. Kwatisore Bay is a small part of the larger bay, near where the two provinces meet. It is known for consistently high sightings of whale sharks.
Once we finally arrived, we did get our whale shark experience, and a visit to the little village of Kwatisore – albeit a day late.
We were lucky!
Cenderawasih Bay National Park is Indonesia’s largest marine park, and permits are required by groups wishing to snorkel with the huge fish. Our permit window had not yet expired when we arrived, and the fishermen operating the bagan – the floating fishing platform – we were aiming for, were still willing to chum the water. By prior arrangement, fishermen in the bay throw small bits of food into the water (chumming) to make sightings of whale sharks even more reliable.
Growing up to 18.8 m (61.7 ft), whale sharks (Rhincodon typus) are the largest known extant fish species. As a slow-moving, filter-feeding carpet shark, they pose no risk to divers or snorkelers. Swimming amongst these giant creatures was a magical experience.
After our snorkel, we went ashore in the little village of Kwatisore. Following tribal tradition, before entering the village itself we all had to step on a paddle to avoid transporting any bad spirits with us. Once on the village green, we were treated to a musical welcome and a performance of the Birds of Paradise dance, in which a hunter shoots one of those magnificent birds.
Following the performance, I broke away from the larger group to wander around the tiny village. Do join me!
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The Bagan
Fishing and tourism in Cenderawasih Bay National Park is regulated, and official permits have to be negotiated ahead of time. Fortunately, as I was part of a group, this wasn’t my problem! The floating fishing platform we snorkeled around was ready and waiting for us. (iPhone15Pro)
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Whale Shark – Rhincodon Typus
In preparation for this trip, I had bought a waterproof silicone phone cover. It kept my phone dry; unfortunately, it also rendered the phone pretty unresponsive to my commands! That – plus the chum in the water – led to focussing issues. (iPhone15Pro)
Whale Shark Below
Snorkeling with these giant creatures – about the size of a large bus – was an experience I won’t soon forget! (iPhone15Pro)
Kampung Akudiomi Waterfront
After a quick shower, we were shuttled to the nearby village for a visit. There is not much clear land here! Dense jungle rises up steeply behind the houses.
Kampung Akudiomi Housing
Many of the simple wooden houses are colourfully painted.
Welcome Music
All across the island of New Guinea, face paint and feathers feature hugely in the traditional dress.
Blowing the Conch
Musicians
Youngster
I love the clear, unaffected gaze this youngster gave me as I lifted the camera.
Young Dancer
Portrait of a Bird
A school boy sports his bird of paradise costume with pride.
Young Boys
The locals are as fascinated by us as we are by them!
Dancing Birds
Birds of paradise mate for life; the boys and girls dancing here are paired off.
Birds of Paradise
A Hunter in Pursuit
Oh no! Here comes a local hunter!
Looking at all the feathers used in traditional Papuan costumes, I’m always amazed that there are any birds of paradise left on the island.
The Hunter and his Bird
The female bird lies dead, the male bird is left to pine, and the hunter pays his respects to the beautiful creature he has killed.
A Cross on the Door
Christian missionaries made huge inroads into the communities of Papua and West Papua; some version of Christianity is common in these tiny villages.
Wooden House
There is some electricity, but houses are simple here.
Breadfruit – Artocarpus Altilis
The local food supply quite literally grows on trees …
Wandering Fowl
… or scratches around under foot.
Shopkeeper and his Shop
Naturally, there is also a small convenience store.
Tourists in the Mainstreet
Our Ship on the Horizon
Life here is wedged between the forest and the sea.
Roofer
Meanwhile, there are new houses being built. And yes, he is in bare feet.
After the Performance
When I made my way back to the village green, the performers were still gathered around.
Smiling Bird Hunter
Ukulele
Officials
I made a point of saying hello the the government officials who had travelled from the local administrative offices to oversee our visit. They were happy to be photographed in their uniforms.
Evening Skies
We returned to our ship – and to the unwelcome news that, because of our engine difficulties, we were headed back to Sorong instead of to the atolls of Raja Ampat. But, as day turned to evening, we had food, drink, and wonderful skies over the Taman Nasional Teluk Cenderawasih – Cenderawasih Bay National Park. (iPhone15Pro)
We might have lost a part of our itinerary, but we were safe and well-fed. I went to sleep dreaming of those beautiful gentle marine giants.
Until next time,
Safe Sailing!
Pictures: 24March2025
