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The Rolling Hills of Munnar
In the Western Ghats of Kerala, India, the mountains brush the clouds, the rivers and roads wind in all directions, and the hills are blanketed by tea bushes and silver oak trees.
I read a lot of historical fiction growing up. Much of it took place in “The Colonies”.
So, I always had a fascination with India’s many Hill Stations.
Finally! A couple of years ago, I had my chance: I was booked on two trips in India’s south, with a four week interval between them. To part-fill that gap, I made forays into the hills of Kerala; more specifically, into the Western Ghat Mountains.
My first hill-stay was in Munnar, a former resort for the elite of the British Raj. Although long inhabited, the region between Cochin and Madurai was first formally surveyed by Benjamin Swayne Ward from 1816. In 1817, he established a camp at the confluence of three mountain rivers: the Muthirapuzha, the Nallathanni, and the Kundali. This gave the colonial settlement its name: the word munnar means ‘three rivers’ in Malayalam.
Soon, the hardships faced by the early explorers in what they called dark impenetrable forests, passed. Before long, the trees were being cleared, and by the 1880s, tea plantations were established across the landscape.
Munnar itself is situated at around 1,600 metres (5,200 ft), with the surrounding hills rising to 2,695 meters (8,842 ft). It boasts a much cooler climate than the coast, which made it an attractive summer resort for the British during their rule. It continues to attract urban Indians and international visitors.
I had found a timeshare spot in the village of Chinnakanal (Club Mahindra Munnar Resort), up in the hills about 30 minutes outside Munnar. I had an arrangement with a Kerala driver, and after my first group tour finished (see: A Morning in Historic Fort Kochi), we set off west into the mountains.
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Scenes From a Car: A Bridge over the Periyar River
It is bliss not having to drive! Especially in India where signposts can be indecipherable and adherence to road rules is vague at best. About half way, in the village of Neriamangalam, we cross Kerala’s longest and most important river. (iPhone12Pro)
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Valara Waterfall
A short while later we stop – like every other driver – to admire the waterfall on the Deviyar River, tumbling down through the jungle next to National Highway 85. (iPhone12Pro)
Bonnet Macaques
I was more interested in these primates – which I take to be a pair. (iPhone12Pro)
Red Face and Big Eyes
Bonnet macaques are endemic to southern India. A high number of blood capillaries under the thin skin of their faces flushes red easily with their emotions. (iPhone12Pro)
Afternoon Light over the Mountains
As we climb higher into the mountains, the clouds lower to meet us. (iPhone12Pro)
Munnar Colony
The buildings of the town are already far below in the valley. (iPhone12Pro)
Tea Harvesting
When I spot my first tea-pickers, I have to pull out the actual SLR cameras. But, the pickers are a long way away, and we still have driving to do.
Roadworks and Rain
With two monsoon seasons, roads are regularly in need of repair. (iPhone12Pro)
Visibility Zero
Munnar averages only two days of rain every February; as we drove into the clouds, I could only hope the rest of my trip would be clear! (iPhone12Pro)
This Will Do Nicely!
My spacious cottage was a welcome treat after a long day in the back seat of a car. (iPhone12Pro)
From my Balcony
Finally! In the morning, the clouds lift and I have a view over the tea plantation as I drink an instant coffee on my balcony. (iPhone12Pro)
A Lone Bonnet Macaque
I’d been warned not to take food onto the balcony; macaques are opportunists. (iPhone12Pro)
Green and Green
After the long road the day before, I’ve given my driver a couple of days off. I set off from my room on foot to explore the neighbourhood.
Winding Roads
Everywhere I look, the mountains rise to meet the clouds.
A Splash of Colour
A daylily (Hemerocallis) makes a nice contrast to all the green.
Through the Teas and Trees
I love the humped patterns made by the tidy evergreen tea plants (Camellia sinensis). Silver oak trees (Grevillea robusta), native to Australia, are dotted around the plantations to provide shelter from strong winds and shade from the sun.
Red-Whiskered Bulbul – Pycnonotus Jocosus
It was a melodious warble that caught my ear before I spotted this medium-sized beauty overhead. My lenses are not bird-worthy, so I’m always pleased to catch something!
Rolling, Rolling …
Bird on a Wire
Birds are everywhere – mostly too small for me to photograph, and too distant for me to identify.
A Lone Dog on a Rough Road
I’m always a bit leery of wandering dogs …
Local Dog
I guess he is wary of me too; he stops to check me out and then saunters off.
A Shopkeeper and his Very Tidy Shop
I finally find a local shop: impossibly tidy, and stacked with many products I don’t recognise. (iPhone12Pro)
A Tidy Shop
I continue to photograph as the owner makes me a masala chai.
Herbs in Recycled Bottles
It pays to ask! This is NOT a cooking spice mix – when combined with coconut oil, it is a hair tonic!! I leave the store with fresh nuts and locally-made chocolate.
Cooks at the Resort
These young men were the highlight of my stay at this resort: they cheerfully explained all the exotic dishes they were preparing and let me taste-test. (iPhone12Pro)
Another Overcast Day in the Tea Plantation
The next morning the rains were back! This was my view from the restaurant at breakfast. (iPhone12Pro)
… and Up again …
But, at least I was getting some exercise: it was a long walk down to breakfast, and it seemed even further going back up! (iPhone12Pro)
A Bright Spot in an Otherwise Dull Day
A hibiscus in a pot beside the staircase made a cheerful spot of colour – and a good excuse to stop and catch my breath. (iPhone12Pro)
Apart from myself, all the visitors to the resort were Indian family groups. Hardly the romantic idyll of historical fiction, but a wonderful place to stay, even so!
I had my fingers crossed for better weather as I hoped to explore further afield the next day.
Until then,
Happy travels!
Pictures: 02-04February2023
