In and On the Banda Sea: Around the Banda Islands, Maluku, Indonesia

Men in white paddling a kora kora, Banda Caldera, Indonesia

Rowers on a Longboat
These war canoes – called kora kora or coracora – are traditional naval vessels in the Indonesian province of Maluku. They were once used to carry men on raids for plunder and/or slaves. Fortunately for us, this one has been sent out to greet our ship as we pass through the Zonnegat Channel and enter the Banda Caldera.

We were in the waters of the fabled Spice Islands of Indonesia.

Today, this archipelago is home to countless islands covered in thick rainforests. The landscape is scarred by years of volcanic eruptions and the underwater-scape comprises stunningly pristine coral reefs populated by every colour fish you can think of.

The Banda Islands are not particularly easy to access, and village infrastructure is patchy. In the late 1990s, sectarian violence in nearby Ambon spilled over, damaging the then-fledgeling tourism industry. We, however, were in our own floating ‘hotel’: the Australian-registered small ship the Coral Geographer. So, we could enjoy visits to the very different local communities while being largely insulated from under-developed facilities.

From the early 16th century, the Banda Islands were home to incredible colonial bloodshed. This was thanks to the European desire for nutmeg and mace, which grew nowhere else in the world. The islands were taken over by the Portuguese in 1511, and then the Dutch arrived in 1599. The Dutch monopolised the local spice trade well into the 17th century. More on all that at some other time – when I make landfall on Banda Neira itself.

Our ship had traveled southeast overnight – traversing the Banda Sea from Saparua (see: Aboard a Ship in the Ceram and Banda Seas). Early in the morning, we were all out on the foredeck of our vessel to enjoy the kora kora canoes as they welcomed us with their rhythmic drumming and guided us into the banda – an Indonesian word derived from Persian, meaning “port” or “haven.”

Then, after a sumptuous breakfast, we were off to snorkel (or dive) on the extensive coral reef that has built itself in the lava flow that runs off Banda Api. On this occasion, my waterproof phone cover failed me completely, and all my pictures are blurry. So, I’ve included a couple taken by crew with their proper underwater housings.

Join me on and in the waters of the caldera around the Banda Islands:

Long wooden fishing boat on the water, Banda Islands, Indonesia

Early Morning Fishermen
Fishing is a big industry across the islands. The men are out early to cast their heavy nets from their wooden longboats.

Passengers on the foredeck of the Coral Geographer, Banda Islands, Indonesia

Waiting for the Welcome
We are all out on deck early for the kora kora. Like many others, I had my coffee in hand.

Towards Banda Neira
The eponymous town that is the nerve-center of the island of Banda Neira comes into view as we work our way through the channel.

Landslip on Banda Api
Between 1586 and 1988, the volcano on Banda Api erupted over twenty times. Evidence from the 1988 eruption, which killed three people, is still visible.

Mosque on Banda Api
The 1800 islanders resident at the time of the last volcano were evacuated, but a small community has moved back.

Welcome Longboat
Finally! The welcome canoes – one either side of us – come into view.

Boats in the Harbour
Our kora kora welcome boats are not the only vessel in the little harbour.

Keeping Time
A drummer on the boat keeps the rhythm for the rowers. He throws us a cheeky smile from the prow.

Paddlers in the Stern
These boats are about ten metres (33 feet) long and very narrow. They sit low, and weigh about four tons.

Fishing Boat
The wooden fishing boats are laden with heavy nets as they head out to open waters.

Lima Saudara – Five Brothers
The men smile and wave as they pass our vessel.

Boats in the Harbour

Kora Kora War Canoe
The steep, jungle-clad hills around the water-filled caldera rise up on Banda Neira, and the longboat races towards the village.

Crew Member at the Prow
The cruise staff keep a sharp lookout …

Working the Anchor
… and once they are happy with the ship’s location …

Anchor Winch
… the anchor is dropped into position.

NMI: Snorkeling in the Lava Flow
Crew-member Jess got a shot of me engaging in a lazy snorkel in the reef off Banda Api.

NMI: Fish in the Lava Flow
Jess also caught a striated surgeonfish (Ctenochaetus striatus) and a Moorish idol (Zanclus cornutus) – just two of the many species in the waters here.