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Salads, Skewers, and Terrine
Food is the centre of French life – which is why the market hall in Cahors, Southern France, calls itself “le cœur et l’âme de la ville” – “the heart and soul of the city”.
If you Google “French” and “food” you will get chapter and verse on culinary artistry, precision techniques, high-quality ingredients, and deep cultural significance.
On my first trip to France – many, many years ago – I was working for some friends at a small auberge in Parignargues. There, I was introduced to concept of the gastronomic meal: we hosted a few weddings where the set regime of courses seemed to go forever. Plate after plate: a starter, a salad course, a fish course, a soup course, a meat course (or two), a desert course, and finally the traditional wedding cake: a croquembouche – that towering concoction of profiteroles (cream puffs) glued together with spun sugar. At the end of serving the meal, late into the night, I was always dead on my feet.
But, it was if I had been adopted: as I said goodnight to our guests, they all insisted on kissing me three times on the cheeks in farewell. This social practice of setting structured multi-course meals to celebrate important life events is so central to French life that the it is listed by UNESCO for its Intangible Cultural Heritage.
I was reminded of the importance of food to the French on my most recent stay. I was visiting with a long-time friend and her partner in Cahors in Southern France, and discussions about meals were central to our days. Even “simple” home-cooked plates were works of art, and eating out was an absolute event.
Join me for a small taste of regional cuisine:
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Presentation Plus!
Even dinner at home is a work of art. Sausages from one’s favourite butcher are teamed with locally sourced vegetables, rich Dauphinoise potatoes, and a lovingly made sauce.
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Wine and Gin
I had forgotten that shops and services in Southern France typically close for two or more hours in the middle of the day, so it was a few days before I found the market hall open when I was free.
Olives
I love markets: the colours, patterns, and textures are everywhere. Of course, low light and cramped, busy spaces make for a photographic challenge.
At the Counter
The market is only closed on Mondays and Public Holidays. Deliberating over what to buy for the next meal is an almost daily event.
Cheeses
As Kate says in the movie French Kiss: “Those French…. they have a whole relationship with dairy products I don’t understand.” Cheese is a central part of that relationship, …
Bouton de Culotte
… and it comes in every shape and size. These little “panty buttons” are made from whole raw milk.
In the Market Hall
Built in 1865, the hall itself was originally a grain market. Across the 1930s, local agricultural practices changed, and the market began to offer a broader range of foods. That wonderful roof was renovated 1960s and 70s, and the stalls have been revamped many times.
Truffle Sauce
Several species of truffle are prized as food, with different types historically found across different regions of France and Italy. Today, truffles are cultivated and harvested in natural environments around the world, but they are still associated with haute cuisine.
Meringues
Light, airy, and sweet: meringues are a French invention, first recorded in a French printed cookbook in 1692.
Vegetable Pie
Pissaladière
A regional specialty, the pissaladière, is a pastry or flatbread base covered in a thick layer of sweet, slow-cooked caramelized onions, and garnished with anchovy fillets and black olives. The first written recipe was found in Provence in a document dated 879 CE.
Choosing Groceries
I love watching the thoughtfulness with which people choose their items.
Local Specialities
Shop windows in the old town feature colourful displays of local specialities.
Sales Clerks at the Counter
My friend was after something particular, so we stopped into another specialty shop.
Portrait of a French Salesclerk
This young salesman was remarkably patient with my very-bad French!
Veronique and Patrick
Later, before my friends and I set off on a wet walk (see: The Medieval Village of Saint-Cirq Lapopie), we stopped at a picnic table …
Home-Made Pissaladière
… to enjoy the beautifully-hand crafted (and tasty!) tart that Patrick has made for our lunch.
Fine Dining in Restaurant Les Jardins
True French know where the good restaurants are hidden! Parnac is only 20km (12mi) from Cahors, and only a half-hour drive – but it feels like more on dark country roads. This tiny restaurant with strictly-timed bookings has a set seven-course menu. This is our third course: “Noix De Veau De Montamel En Mi-Cuisson Bavaroise De Thon, Concasse De Tomate Et Sarriette Dernieres Courgettes En Grenobloise“; medium-rare veal from Montamel with tuna Bavarian cream, crushed tomatoes and savory zucchini Grenobloise.
The Cheese Course: Assiette De Fromages Et Condiments
My companions analysed each plate carefully.
Creamy Matcha Tea Shortcrust Pastry and Fresh Strawberry Mochi Ice Cream, Barley Pudding with Roasted Watermelon and Strawberry Water
Champignons Farci au Fromage Frais aux Herbes Échalotes et Pignons de Pin
Back in Paris after my delicious southern sojourn, I stuck to a single course – but enjoyed it just as much!
Here’s hoping you enjoy good food and great company over this festive season.
Bon Appétit!
Photos: 24-27September2024
