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It Looks Like Paradise
One of the things I learned living and travelling in Asia is that “eco resort” is often code for “no infrastructure”. Ora Beach Resort looked like bliss from a distance. From the comfort of our small ship, we visited this deserted, mostly derelict and rubbish-strewn “resort” on Pulau Seram – the largest of the islands in Indonesia’s Maluku province.
The best way to visit the Maluka’s (Malakas, Moluccas) in the eastern part of Indonesia is by ship.
These were once known as the Spice Islands. The nutmeg, mace, and cloves that grew here – and nowhere else – attracted the attention of 16th century European colonial powers. The Spice Wars of the 1500s were the result. Bloody battles between the Spanish, Portuguese, Dutch, and English lasted through to the mid-1600s, paying scant regard for the local populous. In 1652 the Dutch took total control – and held it for a hundred years. To this day, colonial buildings remain to bear witness to this period.
Those early mariners spent years at sea, travelling in wooden sailing vessels that were at the mercy of the winds. We were much more luxuriously accommodated on the Australian-registered Coral Geographer.
Even so, it wasn’t the smoothest trip that ever was, and we seemed to come up against a number of obstacles to going to the actual destinations in our original itinerary.
A long-malfunctioning port azipod – a mysterious part that usually provides half the propulsive power for the ship – had – after a protracted wait – been repaired in Sorong (see: On the Lands and Waters), and we were finally able to set off at normal speed. In the course of three days, we then made visits to four different islands in the Malukas.
Our first stop was Pulau Besar, a deserted island in the Ceram (Seram) Sea off the north coast of Pulau Seram-Sawai. There, we could wander a short stretch of beach or snorkel on the beautiful outer reefs.
In the afternoon, we were meant to visit Sawai Village, a traditional fishing village with a picturesque reputation on Pulau Seram-Sawai, the largest of the Maluku Islands. Unfortunately, we were told that a local dispute had flared into violence, and our visit would therefore be ill-advised. We were transported instead to a deserted and isolated resort further down the coast of the island.
After a day at sea around Pulau Seram-Sawai, we crossed from the Seram Sea into the Banda Sea. Once we finally stopped, we enjoyed for some snorkelling on the uninhabited private island of Pulau Molana (Maolana). That island is home to coconut crabs, the world’s largest land-dwelling arthropods. Unfortunately, the only ones I saw were tethered and ready for the cooking pot!
Following lunch, we had a visit to Saparua, one of 17 administrative villages on that eponymous island. We had a ceremony on the green which included a welcoming Lenso dance and vigorous Cakalele warrior dance. For me, the high point was a visit to the Dutch colonial Fort Duurstede, where I was able to interact with local visitors and the school children who had danced and sung for us.
Come for a visit to some pristine and beautiful tropical islands
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On the Bridge
From the bow of our small ship, the Australian-registered Coral Geographer, the tropical seas stretch out in front.
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Snorkelers
Our tenders took us on a morning run to Pulau Besar, “Big Island”, where we had clear skies and clearer waters. A stunning coral shelf ran parallel to the length of the beach.
Under the Waters
I bought myself a silicone phone cover in preparation for this trip. It wasn’t perfect, and the colours don’t do the reality justice – but it was better than nothing!
Ora Beach Huts
We were meant to be visiting Sawai Village on Pulau Seram, but a local dispute had apparently turned violent. So, our tenders transported us to a deserted resort on the island. Those huts over the water were new and unfinished – but the rest of the isolated resort was in complete disrepair.
Clear Waters and Impenetrable Jungle
This island is traversed by a central mountain range and covered with dense rain forests. The area attracts birders: it is home to 117 species of birds on the island: 14 of which are endemic.
Overlooking the Waters
The bulbs overhead suggest electricity, but nothing was operating when we were there.
Explorer Two
Our flat-bottomed tenders could land us just about anywhere.
Old Boat in the Jungle
Like the old accommodation cabins, most of the boats at the resort had seen better days.
Ora Beach Boat
This was the transportation to-and-from the resort for the representatives that met us. Roads don’t penetrate these mountainous jungles.
The White Sands of Pulau Molana
Two days later, we were snorkelling off another deserted beach – this time in the Banda Sea.
Ripples in the Waters and Rough Volcanic Rock
Walking to the rough volcanic rock at the top of this Pulau Molana beach, you can then drift along in the current, over colourful fish and magnificent coral.
On the Ukulele
At our next stop, the local Saparua school children played and sang for our entertainment.
Welcome Music
The Lenso (Handkerchief) Welcome Dance
This is the courtyard of the local school.
Choir Girls
Cakalele Warrior Dance
This traditional dance celebrates the Maluku people’s heroic spirit, resilience, and connection to ancestors.
Cakalele Warrior
Inside Benteng Duurstede
From the Dutch fort, we have views over the village.
Three Friends
The fort attracts visitors from nearby islands.
Young Musicians
Many of the school children followed us up into the fort, and happily posed on the battlements.
“Right Twice a Day”
Warrior on the Fort
The fort was built in 1676 – but has been heavily renovated since then.
Little Musicians
Little Cuties
These children were adorable! Shells are a big part of the local cultures.
Local Hero
Thomas Matulessy (1783 – 1817), also known as Kapitan Pattimura, or simply Pattimura, was born here in Saparua. He had a complicated military history, but became a symbol of the Indonesian struggle for independence.
King Neptune and Queen Salacia
We had crossed the equator twice on this trip. As is customary, those who are crossing for the first time need to pay a sacrifice in an Equator Crossing Ceremony.
A Dramatic Sky
No matter what our days held, we could almost always guarantee a glorious tropical sunset.
These were just four of the roughly thousand islands in the Maluka’s …
Just enough to make me wish we’d had more time.
Photos: 31March2025 and 01-02April2025
