.jpg) On the Rhine Falls
Tourists on a passenger boat and on a viewing platform marvel at the face of Europe’s largest water fall: the Reinfall on the Rhine River between the Swiss Cantons of Zurich and Schaffhausen. Travelling around Switzerland is like luxuriating in a box of the rich, truffle-filled chocolates that the country is famous for.
Everywhere you go, picture-postcard scenes meet you.
And, if you have Swiss friends to guide you and a Swiss Travel Pass in hand, you don’t even have to work hard: accessing these magic places is easy.
We were headed out on a simple day trip from where we were staying near Zurich: we were taking a train to the SBB (Schweizerische Bundesbahnen) railway station at Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall, another train across the river to Schaffhausen, and then a third train back to Zurich …
.jpg) Viaduct over the Rheinfall
Our rail trip to the Rhine Falls gave us a good view over the roiling waters of the Rhine – and of the railway and pedestrian viaduct that crosses it. (iPhone5) .jpg) Accessing the Rheinfall
The medieval castle of Schloss Laufen, sitting high over the Falls, now operates as a tourist attraction …  Courtyard over the Rheinfall
… and houses a restaurant and a youth hostel. Outside Elevator
The Castle also offers an elevator down to the river for those who don’t want to make the short walk. The Roar of the Rhine Falls
At river-level, it is easier to appreciate the power of the 150 metre- (490 ft) wide falls. Boats on the Rhine Falls
The tourist boats on the river are colour-coded: some do a brief tour, some let you out at the rocks in the middle of the falls, and some explore further. Boat on the Rhine Fall
The tourist boats are dwarfed by the spray from the 23 metre- (75 ft) high falls. On the Rheinfall
We opted for the short trip – Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall
– which never-the-less gave us a good view of the castle on the right bank of the river, … Central Rocks in the Falls
… and of the island rock structures in the middle of the falls. The taller rock has a boat dock and a walking path up to the Swiss flag at the top. Tourist Boat on the Rhine Falls The Munot
It was a very short train trip from Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall, and across the river to Schaffhausen – with it’s landmark 16th-century circular fortress. (iPhone5) The Munot
Built using forced labour between 1563 and 1585, today the circular Munot Fortress is accessed by a walk bridge over a deep moat. Inside the Fortress
The inside of the Munot is dark and eerie; I have no idea how it must have been configured in the old days when it was defending against French invaders. Wedding Couple
Old buildings might be interesting, but this one is little more than a shell – albeit a fascinating and unique shell – with diagrams; … Wedding Couple
… so having newlyweds using the site for their pictures made the walls come to life! Top of the Munot
At the top of the Munot, there are plenty of tables where you can enjoy a coffee or ice-cream. View over Altstadt
Alternately, you can admire the views over old Schaffhausen … View over the Rhine
… and the river; … Wedding Party on the Munot
… or you can just people-watch. Head Towards the Light!
We worked our way back down through the dark tower, towards the light of the fortress’ doorway. Altstadt through the Vines
From there, we were pitched headlong through the vines … Rooftop
… and past the quaintly tiled rooftops, … Stairs to the Altstadt
… and down the steep stairs towards the Old City of Schaffhausen. Crosswalk to the Old Town Oriel Windows
Schaffhausen has been called “Erkerstadt” because of the 171 Erker (oriel bay windows) in the city. Shopfront Selfie
I love the abstract layers that are produced by reflections: photographer, photographed; old town; modern shop with new products. A Town Square Waiting for the Wife Girl in the Fountain
Haus zum Ritter (built in 1492)
Like many of the building fronts in Schaffhausen, Haus zum Ritter is wonderfully decorated with frescos. Erker : Oriel Window
The oriel windows in Schaffhausen were built as status symbols on the houses of rich merchants. Swiss Cheese Trap
Some of the ornate building-fronts house quirky shops selling unique items – like Swiss cheese traps. Beautiful Building Front
Other buildings appear to exist for their own sake.  A simple day trip, but one filled with postcard-views.
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 3August2014
Posted in Landscapes,Switzerland,TravelTags: architecture,environmental portrait,Photo Blog,Pictures,Postcards,Swiss,Switzerland,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Smiling Faces and Bright Futures
Thanks to dormitory accommodation, these Thai Hilltribe girls – children of Lisu itinerant workers – are able to continue their school studies. The remote, mountainous corners of northern and western Thailand – and neighbouring Laos and Myanmar – are home to countless small villages of “mountain folk” (ชาวเขา), or ethnic “Hill Tribes”.
These Hilltribes/Hill Tribes are not a unitary group. In Thailand alone, there are six major distinct ethnic minority groups – the Akha, Karen, Meo or Hmong, Yao, Lahu, and Lisu, plus a few smaller groups and numerous sub-groups, each with distinctive customs and languages.
Most of these groups are relatively recent arrivals in Thailand; going into the 20th century, the country was home to only a few thousand hill tribe members. However, over a period of 200 or so years, groups have drifted across the borders from China, Tibet, Myanmar and Laos. Today, the combined groups are estimated to comprise about a million people in Thailand.
Traditionally, the Hill Tribes are migratory people who practiced slash-and-burn subsistence farming. In the past, their members were regarded as foreigners by the Thai legal and social system: even today, many of them lack legal status because of their past migrations across international borders. And, even when they are legally recognised, the remoteness of their communities puts them out of reach of many mainstream services, and the differences in their languages and customs puts them “outside” mainstream society.
Hill Tribe children face particular challenges in accessing education. They may live a long way from the nearest village school. Thai is not their language at home. Their subsistence-farming parents have little money for extras, like uniforms or books. The schools in these remote hills also face difficulties, for while the Thai Department of Education pays for classrooms and teachers, they do not invest in ancillary supports, like canteens and dormitories for children who cannot return to their distant homes during term, or libraries and recreational books to encourage literacy in pupils. Nor do they support individual students whose families lack electricity, running water, and a meaningful income. It is still often the case that “Hilltribe people are not getting the education they need to determine their future in society.”
Fortunately, this is changing.
When the Thailand Hilltribe Education Projects (THEP) was first formed in 1991, schools in the hills were struggling to provide even basic infrastructure for their resident students, and many children were dropping out of school at very young ages. Since then, THEP has supervised countless school dormitory, canteen, and agricultural projects, and has supported over 300 students through scholarship funding. In the last two years, the first THEP-sponsored students have graduated from university!
I love a good-news story that involves children being able to follow their dreams of an education.
And, I love visiting Northern Thailand, where the people are friendly, the views are stunning, and the food is superb. Susan Race, who manages the Thailand Hilltribe Education Projects (THEP), visits the region several times a year. She checks on the school projects she has found funding for, consults with local staff on potential new projects, and interviews all of the many Hilltribe students who receive study scholarships through her organisation. She does all this with absolute transparency: anyone who is interested is welcome to join her on her trips – as I have in the past (see: Ursula’s Weekly Wanders: THEP)
It is always great fun accompanying her, and meeting some of the students who benefit.
Wings over Chiang Mai
I feel good as soon as I see the red tile roofs of the city and the surrounding green mountains. (iPhone6) School Assembly
Travel with Susan is always packed full! By nine in the morning, we are at our first school, where the children sit quietly waiting for us. Mini Speeches
Many of the children at this school stay all term in dormitories that have received funding though THEP project grants. Flanked by Khru Usa, one of the local teachers behind THEP, and the school’s Headmistress, Susan speaks to the children briefly. Like a Pied Piper
Khru Apichart, a local Headmaster and one of the principal drivers of THEP, walks towards a school’s dormitory with a group of children. Lisu Girls
Some of the older dormitory residents line up to meet us. The Lisu tribe consists of more than 58 different clans; the groups in Thailand are known as “Flowery Lisu” on account of their colourful traditional costumes. Lisu Girls
The Lisu are a Tibeto-Burman ethnic group, descended from indigenous semi-nomadic Tibetans. Kids Line Up
About 55,000 Lisu live in Thailand, mostly in the remote, mountainous hills of the Northwest. In the Girls Dorm
We are not really in “the Hills” here, though. These students live at the dormitory so that their parents can find itinerant work somewhere in the region. Lisu Girl in her Dorm
The youngest dormitory resident is a five-year-old kindergarten student … Lisu Girl in her Dorm
… with a lovely, cheeky grin. In the Mosquito Nets
In the boys’ dormitory, the lads show us how the mosquito nets – which need to be replaced annually – work. Dormitory in the Rain
The next school we visited has a number of tidy dormitories which accommodate several different Hill Tribe groups. High Bunk – Low Ceiling
Inside one of the dorms, a Karen student in traditional dress shows off the top bunk. Karen Twins
Traditionally, unmarried Karen girls wear dresses made of lengths of white or cream cloth that has been hand-woven on a backloom – if not by the girls themselves, then by their mothers. Hmong Dormitory Students
A group of smiling boys in their wonderfully ornate outfits made by their mothers, greet us outside their dormitory. Inside a Dormitory
The conditions in the dorms are simple, but at this school, they are beautifully maintained. Hmong Student
The traditional Hmong black velvet costumes are richly embroidered, and decorated with beads and coins. Khru Apichart in the Boys Dormitory
Apichart Intra was one of the founders of THEP. He takes an active interest in the projects and the children who benefit from them. Here, he is asking the dormitory students how it is going, and if they have any problems. Hmong Boy in his Dormitory Susan and the Teachers
After a quick lunch, we move on to a local district office, where Susan and the teachers prepare to interview scholarship recipients. Students Filling in their Forms
Scholarship recipients are expected to submit their grades every semester, and update the THEP team on any changes in financial and living status. Meeting Students
Susan always invites interested people to join her on trips; these may be student sponsors, and/or members of organisations who have donated project money. They always enjoy meeting the students – many of whom are willing to try out their English. Student Group Shot
No project can happen anywhere near a Thai educational office without the ubiquitous group shot! The Karen children in the front row are in traditional dress. We then got back in our van to drive further into the Hills: from Chiang Mai District, west into Mae Hong Son. Traditional Costumes
After the long and winding drive through the mountains between Chiang Mai and Mae Sariang, we arrived at our last stop for the day, Sangwaan Wittaya School. We were greeted by students in traditional Lanna, Hmong, and Karen dress. Traditional Thai Dancing
They danced for us while we ate our freshly prepared dinner. (iPhone6) It was late when we finally pulled into our guesthouse.
We’d had a long day of meeting students and teachers, checking out dormitories and bunkbeds – a day full of fresh food and smiling faces. And, we had an early start the next day to do it all again!
 I love travelling with Susan and seeing how the schools and students are doing. But, you have to have stamina!
A trip with THEP is work.
Joyful work.
Photos: 8June2017
Posted in Education,Portraits,Thailand,TravelTags: children,costumes,environmental portrait,environmental portraits,people,Photo Blog,portrait,portraits,Thailand,Thailand Hilltribe Education Projects,THEP,traditional,traditional dress,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
Pura Ulun Danu Beratan
The much-photographed 11-tiered meru – the thatch-roofed tower shrine – at Pura Ulun Danu Bratan is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the Goddess of the Waters, and features on Indonesia’s 50,000Rp note. If you want to be a successful traveler, it pays to do your homework.
For example, checking the expected temperatures all around a region – not just on the coast – and packing accordingly!
This was not the first time I’d been caught out by weather in Asia: last year, my husband and I “forgot” that Vietnam is far enough north to get seriously cold in winter.
Bali, on the other hand, is just 8 degrees south of the equator, with average year-round tropical temperatures in the region of 30°C.
Unless, of course, you head into the mountains – in the wet season.
My husband and I had been enjoying some time in the coastal resort town of Sanur Beach when it became apparent that he needed to travel to Kuala Lumpur. Rather than join him, I decided to wait out his return near Candikuning. My plan was to do some yoga, go walking, catch up on work, and visit the temple of Pura Ulun Danu Bratan.
I hadn’t counted on the rain: three days of cold, ceaseless rain that knocked out the internet where I was staying and rendered my clothing – especially my shoes – woefully inappropriate. English language and tourist information fell away as I climbed the mountain to Wanagiri. Walking any of the local hikes was out of the question in the pelting rain and with the wet, slippery grass underfoot. No heat, no tv, no credit cards, and no internet: it didn’t take long for me to finish my book and to exhaust the “menu” in the wet, blowy common area. It turned out that the only transportation I could get down the hill to an ATM in the closest town was a motorcycle, making the idea of carrying my cameras seem pretty fool-hardy.
Still, you make do with what you have!
Fortunately, I had a plastic raincoat in my bag. I rolled up my pants so they wouldn’t get too soggy, grabbed my iPhone6 and my umbrella, got on the back of a small bike, and hung on for dear life.
Bukit Kembar BacPaker Room
I’m pretty sure the ad I read when I booked my simple room emphasised the “EcoTourism” rather than the “Bacpaker” aspects of my accommodation. Be warned: eco-tourism is often code for “no infrastructure”. Although, to be fair, the local coffee (although gritty) wasn’t bad, and the water in my shower was nice and hot. Overlooking Lake Buyan
This is, no doubt, a lovely spot in good weather. The Road Ahead
It was about 10 km of steep, winding mountain road, lined with jungle, macaques, and the odd house, back to the town of Candikuning. Entrance to Pura Ulun Danu Beratan (Bratan)
I tried to organise for my motorcycle-taxi to meet me somewhere different, so I could go for a walk into town, but it was evident that we weren’t communicating clearly. I settled for assigning a time, and having him meet me here, where he left me. Guardian at the Gate
This combined Hindu-Buddhist temple was built in 1633. Some of the features in the grounds – like the fierce dvarapala or gate guardians – are typical of Bali’s Hindu temple (and home) design. Eco-Eagle
Other features – like this extraordinary eagle – were like nothing I’d seen before. Shrine
Shrines of varying sizes and shapes are dotted around the grounds. The mountain in the background disappear into the rainclouds. Candi Bentar
A typical feature of Balinese temple construction is the entry gateway, or Candi Bentar, which looks like an intricate tower that has been split into two. Inner Sanctum
There is no entry to the inner sanctum of the temple, except to those who are engaged in genuine worship. Inner Sanctum
When the richly-carved doors are open, however, you can see the draped temples within. Visitors to the Deer Sanctuary
Deer have a special place in Buddhist lore, representing Buddha’s disciples. Barking Deer
The barking deer (muntjac) is a protected species in Indonesia because of their diminishing numbers in the wild. The 11-Storey Pelinggih Meru at Pura Beratan
Pura Beratan is a major Shaivite water temple complex, part of the UNESCO-listed Subak water management system. The 11-storey Pelinggih Meru is dedicated to Shiva and his consort Parvathi, and also enshrines a Buddha statue. Visitors to the Temple
A brief pause in the rain allows visitors and their Balinese guide to walk around the site. Fish Statue
A giant fish lives in Danau Bratan, which is also known as the Lake of Holy Mountain because of the area’s fertility. Worker on the Site Sacred Fig Tree
Wrapped in a black and white checkered cloth which symbolises the balance of good and evil in Balinese Hinduism, a giant fig commands a central place on the lawns. Patterned Paths Boats for Hire
There are no takers for the hire boats in the wet weather. Another Fish
Outside the restaurants, more fish operates as a fountain. Umbrellas in the Rain
From inside one of the restaurants, I can stay dry while watching more visitors as they leave the site under their colourful umbrellas. I was lucky: the restaurant had reasonable prices and a free wifi signal; I dragged out my lunch as long as I could so that I could stay dry and check my mail and Facebook for the first time in two days.
Eventually, however, I had to roll up my pants again, don my plastic raincoat and brave the elements to meet my motorcycle driver for the long, wet ride back to my modest room.
Such is travel!
01February2017
Posted in Bali,Indonesia,Religious Practice,TravelTags: architecture,Bali,buddhist,hindu,Indonesia,Photo Blog,religion,temple,travel,Travel Blog,UNESCO,Ursula Wall,worship
A Quiet Bench
There is something very “English” about a wood and iron bench sitting amid wet grasses and spring daisies. “Spring” – that season of new life and fresh growth – is a concept originating in the temperate regions of Europe.
There is nowhere quite like an English country-garden to herald Spring in all its traditionally subtle beauty. The gentle rains – for which the countryside is so well known – coupled with slowly increasing sunlight, give rise to fresh budding leaves and an abundance of flowers. When the sun is shining, it is easier to believe in the ideas of rebirth, rejuvenation, renewal, and regrowth.
In practical terms, the arrival of spring, after a long, cold, grey winter, signals that it is time for people to get outside – either into their own small patches, or into those wonderfully expansive gardens of the old stately manors, preserved under Great Britain’s National Trust.
And so it was, one day last month while I was in Hereford, that we all grabbed our cameras and donned our sensible shoes, and went for a walk along the Wye River in The Weir Garden, a National Trust property just 8.0 kilometres (5 mi) west of the city.
This 10 acre (4 hectare) garden was designed by the prior owner, Roger Parr, and his head gardener William Boulter. In addition to the riverside walk, which follows the river banks over the old retaining wall, there is a traditional walled garden, dating back to the early 19th Century, and a Victorian glass house, added in the 1920s.
It’s a lovely place to visit, but you might want a raincoat or an umbrella!
Green
Everything is spring-green, as we enter the Weir Garden property. There is a small entrance fee, unless you are a National Trust member. Gumboots
The paths along the riverside are pebbled and dry, but most Brits always have their Wellies in the car, so they can put them on “just in case.” A Quiet Bench
There are plenty of places along the riverside to sit and watch life – and the Wye River – go by. Daisies
I love daisies! They may be rugged and simple, … Daisy
… but they are so cheerful. Purple Campion (Silene) Valerian (Centranthus Ruber)
Clusters of flowers hang over the river as it winds past us. Daddy and Daughter
Narrow steps lead down to the water’s edge, where a father and daughter check for passing fish. Canoes on the Wye
Thanks to the local canoe rental, you can easily follow the waters down-stream. Child in Nature
Youngsters are at their happiest in nature, climbing trees and getting grubby. On the Tyre Swing
Near an open area with plenty of lawn chairs, there is a natural play ground built from ropes and wooden stumps; the tyre swing was a huge hit. I think it was only the promise of ice-cream at the near-by self-serve shop that got this little one to loosen her grip. Green on Green
The grass and woods surrounding the upper path are impossibly green … Colourful Daisies
… with pink daisies stretching out from the verges. (iPhone6) Admiring the Wye River
The upper path looks over the old retaining wall and the river banks. Sheep in the Meadow
Freshly-shorn sheep graze in the neighbouring meadow, as we move from the Riverside Walk to the Walled Garden. Common Red Poppies (Papaver Rhoeas) at the Wall
The 19th Century Walled Garden protects lots of freshly-planted kitchen vegetables, but is also colourful with the spring flowers. Columbine (Aquilegia) Flowers in the Rain Carnivorous Pitcher Plant (Sarracenia)
In true Victorian style, the heated glass house contains some real exotic specimens! Bees in the Onion Flowers
Back outside, a light, misty rain … Bees in the Onion Flowers
… doesn’t prevent the bees from going about their business. Treecreeper (Certhiidae)
We were heading back to the car when one of my companions got excited about what he could see in the trees. Treecreeper (Certhiidae)
I had to look very, very hard before the small, fast-moving treecreepers became remotely visible to me! Canadian author Margaret Atwood has said: In the spring, at the end of the day, you should smell like dirt.
We did.
 Dirt, flowers, and maybe a little ice-cream.
Until next time,
Happy Rambling!
Pictures: 29May2017
Posted in Great Britain,Nature,Travel,United KingdomTags: blog,England,English,environmental portrait,Herefordshire,National Trust,nature,people,Photo Blog,Spring,Swainshill,The Weir Garden,travel,Travel Blog,uk,Ursula Wall,walk
Dirt Roads West
It’s a long drive west across Mongolia, and for much of the way, the roads are more of a “suggestion” than an actual motorway. It was a long day.
Long, bumpy, and noisy.
I’ve said it before: Cross-country travel in Mongolia is not for the faint-hearted – or for those who are weak of bladder! The Russian UAZ (Ulyanovsky Avtomobilny Zavod) four-wheel-drive vehicles that are tough enough to negotiate the matrix of mud, rocks, dirt and potholes that pass for a road network across the expansive steppes of Western Mongolia are not designed for passenger comfort.
We – a small group of photography enthusiasts organised by Within the Frame and managed by local guides G and Segi – were on our fourth day driving west from Ulaanbaatar (see: Gandantegchinlen Monastery). Our ultimate destination, the annual Golden Eagle Festival in the far-western province of Bayan-Ulgii Province was still a few driving-days away. In theory, we were driving so that we could immerse ourselves in the local landscape and culture. In practice, we saw the land from the windows of our 4x4s and mostly stopped well away from any settlements: our evening camps were dictated by the few accommodations open as the tourist season waned, and our lunch- and “comfort-breaks” took place wherever we happened to be.
I spent a lot of years on the Canadian prairies, so I have an affection for open plains with dustings of snow and mountains in the distance. I reflected on those days of driving across the winter wheat fields as I sat watching the steppes bounce past outside my UAZ window. The difference was that the prairie highways were smooth and straight; Mongolian roads pitch worse than a bad-tempered camel or a small boat in a storm.
We had been warned: it would be a long drive from our ger camp at Tosontsengel to our “hotel” on the shores Khyargas Lake.
And it was…
… with its own unique beauty.
Snow and Mist on the Steppes
We weren’t long out of our ger camp at Tosontsengel before the view out of our UAZs disappeared into snow and fog. (iPhone6) Snowy View from the Truck
It amazes me that our drivers could keep track of the vaguely marked-out dirt roads under the falling snow. (iPhone6) Rocky Piles
Much of the landscape is open and empty; a pile of rocks indicates it is time for a comfort stop! UAZ Vans on the Empty Road
It is low-season; we have the roads pretty much to ourselves. UAZs racing on the Flats
Our drivers amused themselves on the long drive by taking up impromptu challenges with each other. As we came alongside Telmen Lake, they fanned out three across and made their own paths. Bumping, pitching, and curving, they dodged giant holes and herds of cows and sheep. We started singing the theme to the TV show Bonanza as our driver raced the other vans across the flats. Bridge to Nomrog
We were going to have our lunch at the side of the road, so we passed through the small town of Nomrog without stopping. Snow on the Foothills Yaks on the Steppes
With their shaggy coats and bushy tails, the herds of domestic yaks are a sight! Yak on the Steppes
Their short legs disappear into the tall grasses … Yak on the Run
… but they move pretty quickly when they want to! Horse on the Steppe
I was excited to see a fabled Mongolia pony through my UAZ window. (iPhone6) Mongolian Nomad on the Steppe
Nomads on horseback herding their sheep and goats are dotted all over the open landscape. The Road Ahead
As we continue westward, the road deteriorates further. UAZ on the Road Ahead
Sun and rain alternate as we continue to aim for – but never quite reach – the mountains. Mongolian Ponies
The afternoon sun shines on the herds of well-fed ponies that I watch through my truck window. UAZs on the Road
Snowy mountains float in the distance as we drive into a landscape … Landforms in the Distance
… that makes me think of prehistoric times and Jean M. Auel’s Clan of the Cave Bear series. Roadworks
New roads are being built – but not in time for us! The contracts for new highways have been won by Chinese contractors who bring in their own construction crews. View from the Truck
We drive a short stretch of gravel road-base before being tipped back out onto the dirt. (iPhone6) Sunset Quiet
The sun dipped below the horizon before we reached our destination; it was a good excuse to stretch our legs and momentarily escape the noisy vehicles. It was dark before we reached our hotel – which was possibly just as well! The old Russian building (called by one French blogger “an ancient Soviet (Internment?) Camp”) looked like a high school, but lacked internal plumbing or any other creature comforts. The toilets were holes over pits at the petrol station next door, and the washing station was a walk in the other direction, at the cold-water tank. I thanked my lucky stars for my headlamp: otherwise, I would have had no chance of negotiating the rocky, obstacle-laden paths in the dark.
As chance would have it, the one person in our group who saw a mouse is deathly afraid of them. She was persuaded that mice don’t climb stairs, and that she’d be safe on the second floor. Those of us on the ground floor tucked into our beds with hard and lumpy horsehair mattresses and crunchy barley-filled pillows, and took our chances with the mice.
Still, it was warm.
May all your roads be less bumpy!
Happy travels –
Photos: 25September2016
Posted in Landscapes,Mongolia,TravelTags: animals,blog,landscape,Mongolia,nature,Photo Blog,road trip,travel,Travel Blog,Ursula Wall
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